You two are some of the luckiest people alive, you've found each other, you're building your own house in a beautiful place and you've not had any accidents
Love watching your progress! We are building a small dog kennel on our homestead and we gained a lot of knowledge from all of your foundation preparation and your concrete work and pour. Thanks!
Superb! You guys took a TREE...and made a beautiful and precise structural building component from it that will last as long as the house stands. And it will be a constant and visible reminder to you of the knowledge, determination and skills you acquired along the way.
Just watched this. I've been sawing on my Woodmizer for almost 20 years and I find it easiest to saw with the small end of the log facing the sawyer. Starting at the small end allows for more wiggle room because you're always working towards a diameter that gets larger rather than smaller. That way you give yourself the best chance to get what you want out of the log. When I have the logs delivered I always have the driver place the logs small end towards the head of the saw so I'm not wasting time flipping logs around. I've sawn a lot of timbers for timber frames and it's always critical that the 2nd face is always sawn perfectly square to the first face so you'll end up with a square timber, otherwise you'll end up with a parallelogram which no timber framer wants to deal with. It's great that you both have the ambition and willingness to learn and make mistakes building your own house. Enjoy the process!
Keep up the good work, Very encouraging and inspirational, Good or bad right or wrong is not important Working as a team Learning and sharing your journey is a blessing to watch. May God Bless your efforts and bring you and the Family Great joy for many years to come.
Love your videos, watch u every day and look forward to seeing u on your house build, love watching u work together with your wife, I am aware of how much stress is involved in doing what u do , alisa is awsome person. It's nice to see a husband values the abilities of his wife.
It's exciting to see your progress on the house.Love how you two work together and it is a big help to have another person to help.It seems i 've always worked alone and yes you have to be creative.Can't wait till the timber frame starts to go up.
Very much enjoying your exploits in house building. Glad to see you are doing everything you can to keep your standards up. Up where we are on the wet coast, we had 30 red cedars milled up and stored most of them including the waned pieces. All the good stuff went into exterior trim etc., and from the other stuff I have put in over 1000' of deer fencing. and have almost run out. Throw away nothing, you will use it all, even if it is fire starter. The same goes for the Douglas fir. Used the best lumber for columns (cedar) and the best fir for treads and trim etc.
With all of the milling that you are doing, I suggest collecting as much of the sawdust as possible. It can be made into "pucks" that can be burned for heat.
You want the center of the log to be parallel to the bed of the saw, leave the thick end fixed and raise the thin end till both ends are the same height from the saw bed. (Level is not what counts, parallel to the bed is what counts).
Jesse - replace at least one of your hooks with an oversized hook. That way when you lift, it will tighten up on the log and the log can not shift/slip. The equivalent using rope is to make a bowline around the standing part of the rope.
Really enjoy following you make your dreams become reality! I would suggest that clearing out all equipment etc. that is not used in your current activity will make it less likely that an accident and damage to equipment or injury occurs. Always keeping the job site completely clear for footing as well as equipment swing space pays off.
Great job guys! I hope im not reapeating a previous comment but on my sawmill i always put the small end towards the head of the mill. It works for me because I don't have to make as many cuts to get where i want to be. I also agree with a past comment about pouring a slab. You will be very happy you made the investment😀 trust me lol. It gives you a good reference to measure the pith elevation on both ends and gives you something flat and sturdy to jack up the end you need to raise.you guys are doing great keep up the good work
Jesse, you should start cuts on the small end first to maximize what you get out of the log. also adjust log on opposite end for vertical height based on centers of the log. So you can jack up or lift the far end away from your starting cut. so centers are level and cut will be on the correct plane from the center. More material will come off the end of the cut which is what you want.
I have done a lot of turning logs into timber over the years. The easy way for you is make one 1/2 inch shim and shims in one inch increments up to about 5 or 6 inchs. measure from saw mill frame to center of log on thick end Ditto on thin end. Shim the difference on thin end secure log and cut
Trees twist as they grow due to correlis effect so you will never align the grain at each end. You need to clear out your log deck and put two logs at right angles to your mill deck. All the logs then get stacked on these two logs, no more lifting logs up onto the mill. Simply roll them onto your mill. Loving the videos all the way in New Zealand
I remember from wood shop, only sand with the grain wood, # 2 when debarking a log, take a shovel, and run it up the log, from fouch-o-matic off grid, the curve of the log will all most match of shovel.
Don't worry about planing or sanding. The saw cuts smooth enough and with the heart included in the post it will develop a large crack on the surface when it dries anyway. Be aware that the log will flex when a cut is made due to internal stresses in the log. In general the sap wood is in compression and the heart wood is in tension. When you make a cut and remove the sap wood as a slab, the remaining log will likely flex and not be straight.
Guys I have to say I never watched a series of video like you are doing. Man the work in filming and editing on top of the work on the house built. My word is AMAZING !!!!. Keep it up, you are both doing great team work !!!!!!!! ♥
Find center on both ens. Use a scribe and strigb to find center level throughout the length of the log. Raise the smaller end until it is level with the cutting plane of the mill.
I'm fortunate to have rolling and adjustable toe boards on my woodmizer. However even without them I always put the smaller diameter end of the logs at the sawmill carriage end. This allows you to take your measurements from the sawmill bed . Using a short stick as a tool I lift that end so the log is level and put a wedge underneath to secure it there. As you mentioned in the video its essential to have the center of the log level from end to end. Starting the blade at the smaller end gives you a better picture of what the log will yield. Your grappler hook attachment will allow you lift and spin a log to place it on the mill bed. Its a lot of messing around but that tip alone saves you walking back and forth several times to check the alignment. Cheers
Just binged watched all the way from the start of the lite forming. Was a real threat to follow along! daily 30min videos is really hard to do if you want it to be more than time lapses. Kepp it up
You need to line up the middle of the log at each end. Take the diameter at each end and then put a wedge under the small end that is the difference divided by 2. This will make the center at each end line up on the same horizontal plane.
Please cover your building materials and supplies, even if it doesn't rain, the moisture in the night will cause the wood to swell while its surface would sink in pressure points, causing symmetry problems later on.
You got that fancy Bosch level, tack a stake on each end, mark 12 (or whatever works, as long as it’s the same on each end. Level the small end to the big end and the center cuts will be parallel/as straight as possible.
Really love youre adventure! Watched loads of youre vids and now every time checking if u have a post! Its especially nice u do it youre way! In my eyes thats the only good way 👍🏼 Love from the Netherlands
Just a tip because this is something I do know about. In the long run you will be so much happier if you go head like your doing and plane and then sand because when it's left rough, even when you seal it it will get full of diet and grime and dust over the years. The smooth with a nice tung oil is so pleasing. Anyway, you guys are great! Keep up the great work and thanks so much for all the hard work on your videos also!!
I enjoy watching your honest process. I've had a little experience working on timber frames and lots of experience moving heavy stuff. I get nervous when I see your wife handling the timber directly when you're moving the logs with your backhoe. Can you please use a tag line (rope connected to one end) to maneuver the logs when hanging from the bucket. A tag line allows one to work outside of the danger area and away from pinch points. I would hate to see a crushing accident. Great job so far! Lastly, did you prime the steel at the tops of the last two vertical garage posts? You showed it on the first, but not the last couple. It would be nice to see you prime the entire steel beam, because it will continue to rust even when out of the weather.
I have sawn timber frame timbers on a lt15. To center heart of log we built 2 tee shaped scales. 2x4 lays across bed rails then 2x4 goes up in center with an inch scale on it, 0 to 24 inches. Set one at each end of log on rails then leveled them to match scale on each end. Easy fast and made from scraps. No level or strings needed.
Just an FYI, when you're moving heavy stuff with equipment and aren't completely confident with the weight carry it in as close as you can and low as possible, if you do end up lifting wheels they can only go as far as your material is from the ground at most.
Water tube level! Its cheep, easy, accurate, and it works over long distances! And if you put a 5gal bucket in the middle of the tube ends you can increase your distance and verticality, also with the bucket added you can more level points (tube ends).
Water levels are the most under-appreciated and under-used tool in the arsenal. I used one to set the grade on my driveway, and was able to maintain the 1/8 inch per foot slope over the 100 foot length.
For banana-shaped logs, I turn the hump up first and slice enough off so that when I turn the hump down, it sits solid on the mill. Then I shave the turned up ends off.
Please get a set of turn over forks for that backhoe. I love you guys and a set of forks would save you so much time now and especially in the near distant future. Keep up the good work.
I would pick 2 really nice logs, and only put small squares (pegs) at the top and the bottom to attache to the brackets, leaving the rest of the entire length of the log with the bark on it. That would be a really cool look in the lower level. If the bark look isn't your thing, the bark could be peeled off leaving a round post with all it's character.
YAY!! Sub since the hotub. Viewer since the septic tank. Been waiting for this since I moved to Colorado. I know Jesse dosn't read these comments, but I've been rooting for you both since the beginning. I get it all. Now (2 weeks ago) it's getting real. The haters will hate. Push on anyway. Woop Woop!!
Hey Jessie.. always have the small end of log toward you when sawing.. also you need to speed up your feed rate (push faster) and you won't have saw marks..
Hey Jesse, relax. Part of the charm of rough hewn logging is its variation. 1/8" inch difference over 8 feet is insignificant. Chances are that you will lose that much as the wood dries out over time.
Sounds like Alyssa is getting the bug, the beauty of the wood is what makes it worth it. Wait till later when you start picking out certain pieces because of the look of the grain and saving them for special projects.
If you plant to keep poultry, save the sawdust and chips for bedding; poultry bedding or straight off the mill, you can use them in garden paths, as mulch or in hugelkultur. They contain minerals and carbon that will build and enrich your soil.
I use to restore antique trunks, please always sand with the grain of the wood, when you put the finish on the grain pops and you will see the flaws. Alissa I love wood also I can totally relate.
Hi! Great video guys, you really pushing out the human limits, I really enjoy viewing it. My father has a swing-blade sawmill we built 2 years ago. Positioning the log is basically the same I think. You don't have to use laser... just complicating the procedure. We always look for the crown in the log. Make sure the crown is always sideways as it would lie on the desk. Measure the butt diameter and the top diameter without the bark. Subtract the two numbers and divide it by two. Cut a piece of lumber to that thickness and place it under the top end. Wedge out the middle properly to avoid deflection. Secure the 3 supports with detachable locking pins beneath, staved deeply in the bark. From this starting position I use to do 1-2 horizontal cuts and same vertical cuts on the crowned side. The goal here is to reach at least 2/3 of the log length with that cut. After that we repositioning the log on the crowned side, now it's a flat surface except the ends and than the cutting party begins. Definitely needs some wedging 1/8 - 1/4 here and there, that's usual. This precision is fairly acceptable at over 12 ft logs. Hope it is useful! Good job guys! Keep it goin'!
I have a smaller electric planer at work, and what I figured out about 18 years ago was that you need to do one long continuous runs other wise yes you will have flat spots but they will be lower that the rest of the surface. Trust me, long and steady.
You should probably make 2-3 adjustable V-blocks to hold up the ends and maybe the middle of the log for the first cut, that will stop it from rolling and will let you level the log. Double check the tracking of your blade and move those blade guides in closer to get a flatter cut. If you are still rocking on the bed after the first cut, get the bottom level and shim it tight for the second cut. One more thing, since a log doesn't start flat, the weight of the log might bend it during the first cut and flipping it 180° could double that bend for the second cut if your sawmill bed is high in the middle. My experience is more cutting steel with a horizontal bandsaw, where square and straight is usually not an issue but bad tracking and bending stock happen. Wood should be similar in a lot of ways but not all so maybe do some test cuts and look really hard to figure out exactly what is going wrong. The logs I have cut were wood that had been tarped for a year or two to dry and not squared up, just debarked and sanded. I haven't cut enough green wood to tell you what is too wet but that is another thing to worry about.
Scribe and mark with a felt sharpie the USABLE center on each end of the log (under the bark, discounting flares and sweeps) then measure that center to a reference like if your ground is level then use your can't hook to lever the low end up and stick a piece of bark between the bunk and the log. One strong person can handle seriously heavy log this way. Happy milling!
You two are some of the luckiest people alive, you've found each other, you're building your own house in a beautiful place and you've not had any accidents
I like the clean 'city ' look. There is so much beauty in this project: the project itself, the setting and the people.
Awesome video. You folks are better entertainment than anything else on RUclips.
I think this is the best episode so far. Wood machining is so satisfying you will get it dialed in.
Love watching your progress! We are building a small dog kennel on our homestead and we gained a lot of knowledge from all of your foundation preparation and your concrete work and pour. Thanks!
Superb! You guys took a TREE...and made a beautiful and precise structural building component from it that will last as long as the house stands. And it will be a constant and visible reminder to you of the knowledge, determination and skills you acquired along the way.
You guys have come a long way so far! Be proud and enjoy this next phase! I'm happy to be able to follow your progress - thank you!
I have alot of respect for you guys milling your own lumber. I tip my hat to you both.
Hey Alyssa, great save on that controlled fall with five gallons of water in your hands. Very athletic and graceful.
Just watched this. I've been sawing on my Woodmizer for almost 20 years and I find it easiest to saw with the small end of the log facing the sawyer. Starting at the small end allows for more wiggle room because you're always working towards a diameter that gets larger rather than smaller. That way you give yourself the best chance to get what you want out of the log. When I have the logs delivered I always have the driver place the logs small end towards the head of the saw so I'm not wasting time flipping logs around. I've sawn a lot of timbers for timber frames and it's always critical that the 2nd face is always sawn perfectly square to the first face so you'll end up with a square timber, otherwise you'll end up with a parallelogram which no timber framer wants to deal with. It's great that you both have the ambition and willingness to learn and make mistakes building your own house. Enjoy the process!
Keep up the good work, Very encouraging and inspirational, Good or bad right or wrong is not important Working as a team Learning and sharing your journey is a blessing to watch. May God Bless your efforts and bring you and the Family Great joy for many years to come.
Love your videos, watch u every day and look forward to seeing u on your house build, love watching u work together with your wife, I am aware of how much stress is involved in doing what u do , alisa is awsome person. It's nice to see a husband values the abilities of his wife.
Thanks for sharing. What I liked most about this video is your communication and teamwork. A+++
It's exciting to see your progress on the house.Love how you two work together and it is a big help to have another person to help.It seems i 've always worked alone and yes you have to be creative.Can't wait till the timber frame starts to go up.
You two are so awesome. We really enjoy watching the progress.
I don't know if you're going to paint these posts, or stain them ,but oh my goodness what a beautiful woodgrain. Love your videos
"Bugaboo, get up and do something with your life." Haha!!!!
I love Bugaboo!!
Stay safe. Dust masks might be a good idea?
I really like the process and product y'all are doing....keep up the awesomeness...
That wood is gorgeous.
I'm excited that you guys are starting the framing! :)
great recovery on the water can trip you are one gutsy woman hang in there
Very much enjoying your exploits in house building. Glad to see you are doing everything you can to keep your standards up. Up where we are on the wet coast, we had 30 red cedars milled up and stored most of them including the waned pieces. All the good stuff went into exterior trim etc., and from the other stuff I have put in over 1000' of deer fencing. and have almost run out. Throw away nothing, you will use it all, even if it is fire starter. The same goes for the Douglas fir. Used the best lumber for columns (cedar) and the best fir for treads and trim etc.
the sawdust is awesome for gardening, and after you use the firewood you can add that Ashes to your garden as well or you can use them to make soap
I wanted to see the Claw, than I remembered this was videoed before. Looking good!
With all of the milling that you are doing, I suggest collecting as much of the sawdust as possible. It can be made into "pucks" that can be burned for heat.
I'm enjoying the journey. It looks like a lot of work!
You want the center of the log to be parallel to the bed of the saw, leave the thick end fixed and raise the thin end till both ends are the same height from the saw bed. (Level is not what counts, parallel to the bed is what counts).
Jesse - replace at least one of your hooks with an oversized hook. That way when you lift, it will tighten up on the log and the log can not shift/slip.
The equivalent using rope is to make a bowline around the standing part of the rope.
Really enjoy following you make your dreams become reality! I would suggest that clearing out all equipment etc. that is not used in your current activity will make it less likely that an accident and damage to equipment or injury occurs. Always keeping the job site completely clear for footing as well as equipment swing space pays off.
Great job guys! I hope im not reapeating a previous comment but on my sawmill i always put the small end towards the head of the mill. It works for me because I don't have to make as many cuts to get where i want to be. I also agree with a past comment about pouring a slab. You will be very happy you made the investment😀 trust me lol. It gives you a good reference to measure the pith elevation on both ends and gives you something flat and sturdy to jack up the end you need to raise.you guys are doing great keep up the good work
Alyssa - I hope you learned that you always need and exit route when dealing with heavy items, especially over your head.
Jesse, you should start cuts on the small end first to maximize what you get out of the log. also adjust log on opposite end for vertical height based on centers of the log. So you can jack up or lift the far end away from your starting cut. so centers are level and cut will be on the correct plane from the center. More material will come off the end of the cut which is what you want.
And you wondered if buying the backhoe was a good idea. It makes moving logs so much easier. Great buy.
I have done a lot of turning logs into timber over the years.
The easy way for you is make one 1/2 inch shim and shims in one inch increments up to about 5 or 6 inchs.
measure from saw mill frame to center of log on thick end
Ditto on thin end.
Shim the difference on thin end
secure log and cut
I love natural wood...gorgeous.
Bugaboo would have to be the coolest cat on RUclips.
Thanks for sharing with us...love your videos. Can't wait for more
Trees twist as they grow due to correlis effect so you will never align the grain at each end. You need to clear out your log deck and put two logs at right angles to your mill deck. All the logs then get stacked on these two logs, no more lifting logs up onto the mill. Simply roll them onto your mill. Loving the videos all the way in New Zealand
Happy for you guys. Hard work starting to show off. Beautiful wood.
I'm scratching my head and asking myself "How and when did your channel become so addictive? "
I remember from wood shop, only sand with the grain wood, # 2 when debarking a log, take a shovel, and run it up the log, from fouch-o-matic off grid, the curve of the log will all most match of shovel.
Don't worry about planing or sanding. The saw cuts smooth enough and with the heart included in the post it will develop a large crack on the surface when it dries anyway.
Be aware that the log will flex when a cut is made due to internal stresses in the log. In general the sap wood is in compression and the heart wood is in tension. When you make a cut and remove the sap wood as a slab, the remaining log will likely flex and not be straight.
Hooray ! Good fortune to you all and all the students and teachers.
Guys I have to say I never watched a series of video like you are doing. Man the work in filming and editing on top of the work on the house built. My word is AMAZING !!!!. Keep it up, you are both doing great team work !!!!!!!! ♥
Find center on both ens. Use a scribe and strigb to find center level throughout the length of the log. Raise the smaller end until it is level with the cutting plane of the mill.
I'm fortunate to have rolling and adjustable toe boards on my woodmizer. However even without them I always put the smaller diameter end of the logs at the sawmill carriage end. This allows you to take your measurements from the sawmill bed . Using a short stick as a tool I lift that end so the log is level and put a wedge underneath to secure it there. As you mentioned in the video its essential to have the center of the log level from end to end. Starting the blade at the smaller end gives you a better picture of what the log will yield. Your grappler hook attachment will allow you lift and spin a log to place it on the mill bed. Its a lot of messing around but that tip alone saves you walking back and forth several times to check the alignment. Cheers
Linseed oil is the best stuff, it keeps the natural wood look and protects it
Just binged watched all the way from the start of the lite forming. Was a real threat to follow along! daily 30min videos is really hard to do if you want it to be more than time lapses. Kepp it up
You need to line up the middle of the log at each end. Take the diameter at each end and then put a wedge under the small end that is the difference divided by 2. This will make the center at each end line up on the same horizontal plane.
Please cover your building materials and supplies, even if it doesn't rain, the moisture in the night will cause the wood to swell while its surface would sink in pressure points, causing symmetry problems later on.
You guys are definitely learning as you go.
It is easier to mill your logs if you place the small end toward the mill.
Beautiful cut! That’s a nice looking log.
You got that fancy Bosch level, tack a stake on each end, mark 12 (or whatever works, as long as it’s the same on each end. Level the small end to the big end and the center cuts will be parallel/as straight as possible.
Really love youre adventure! Watched loads of youre vids and now every time checking if u have a post!
Its especially nice u do it youre way! In my eyes thats the only good way 👍🏼
Love from the Netherlands
Just a tip because this is something I do know about. In the long run you will be so much happier if you go head like your doing and plane and then sand because when it's left rough, even when you seal it it will get full of diet and grime and dust over the years. The smooth with a nice tung oil is so pleasing. Anyway, you guys are great! Keep up the great work and thanks so much for all the hard work on your videos also!!
Seems like that advice only applies to cured and dried lumber!
Great to see the mill running. And great job on planing. Greetings from Andreas on Off Grid Sweden
Beautiful wood!!!
Its exciting that you guys are starting the milling. keep up the good work.
You will do it! Thanks for sharing.
Move the saw over top log with out running. Dry run. Mark the center with plumb bob out the blade to center log and sides and mark both ends.
I enjoy watching your honest process. I've had a little experience working on timber frames and lots of experience moving heavy stuff. I get nervous when I see your wife handling the timber directly when you're moving the logs with your backhoe. Can you please use a tag line (rope connected to one end) to maneuver the logs when hanging from the bucket. A tag line allows one to work outside of the danger area and away from pinch points. I would hate to see a crushing accident. Great job so far! Lastly, did you prime the steel at the tops of the last two vertical garage posts? You showed it on the first, but not the last couple. It would be nice to see you prime the entire steel beam, because it will continue to rust even when out of the weather.
Level your mill bed with string lines....I know you guys can do that!
String lines?!? That's so 2005! They have that fancy dancy expensive laser! We don't need no stinking string! Note: this was sarcastic...
The beams will be nice ,the beam grane looks good . Good job an a good viedo!
One way to get the pith level is to raise the blade above the log and measure down from it to the center of the log on both ends
I appreciate the recognition on the Lone Ranger, good sir!! Owner/operator of a landscaping business
great job organizing everything guys
I have sawn timber frame timbers on a lt15. To center heart of log we built 2 tee shaped scales. 2x4 lays across bed rails then 2x4 goes up in center with an inch scale on it, 0 to 24 inches. Set one at each end of log on rails then leveled them to match scale on each end. Easy fast and made from scraps. No level or strings needed.
Just an FYI, when you're moving heavy stuff with equipment and aren't completely confident with the weight carry it in as close as you can and low as possible, if you do end up lifting wheels they can only go as far as your material is from the ground at most.
Get a set of forks that attach to the front bucket. Makes moving logs and lumber so much easier.
That wood is BEAUTIFUL! GOD bless guys. JC
Enjoy the look now it won't stay that way.
Water tube level! Its cheep, easy, accurate, and it works over long distances! And if you put a 5gal bucket in the middle of the tube ends you can increase your distance and verticality, also with the bucket added you can more level points (tube ends).
Water levels are the most under-appreciated and under-used tool in the arsenal. I used one to set the grade on my driveway, and was able to maintain the 1/8 inch per foot slope over the 100 foot length.
For banana-shaped logs, I turn the hump up first and slice enough off so that when I turn the hump down, it sits solid on the mill. Then I shave the turned up ends off.
Love watching you both work so hard and you are going to have such a great home together.
Please get a set of turn over forks for that backhoe. I love you guys and a set of forks would save you so much time now and especially in the near distant future. Keep up the good work.
Just what I was thinking, it'd so much easier with flip. front forks.
I would pick 2 really nice logs, and only put small squares (pegs) at the top and the bottom to attache to the brackets, leaving the rest of the entire length of the log with the bark on it. That would be a really cool look in the lower level. If the bark look isn't your thing, the bark could be peeled off leaving a round post with all it's character.
you guys are doing a good job keep it up. winter is around the corner.
YAY!! Sub since the hotub. Viewer since the septic tank. Been waiting for this since I moved to Colorado. I know Jesse dosn't read these comments, but I've been rooting for you both since the beginning. I get it all. Now (2 weeks ago) it's getting real. The haters will hate. Push on anyway. Woop Woop!!
Hey Jessie.. always have the small end of log toward you when sawing.. also you need to speed up your feed rate (push faster) and you won't have saw marks..
Hey Jesse, relax. Part of the charm of rough hewn logging is its variation. 1/8" inch difference over 8 feet is insignificant. Chances are that you will lose that much as the wood dries out over time.
Sounds like Alyssa is getting the bug, the beauty of the wood is what makes it worth it. Wait till later when you start picking out certain pieces because of the look of the grain and saving them for special projects.
ray nall got that bug in high school wood shop. Haven't shook it since
so did I, still amazes me sometimes when you see some different kinds of wood.
Going to be interesting when the "Wood Frame" guys show up. Measure with a micrometer, level with a laser, cut with an axe !!!
If you plant to keep poultry, save the sawdust and chips for bedding; poultry bedding or straight off the mill, you can use them in garden paths, as mulch or in hugelkultur. They contain minerals and carbon that will build and enrich your soil.
You two are awesome love your straight forward honest style. I get a lot of motivation from your channel.
Nice video jesse thanks for posting
Haha "It's like lifting water jugs all over... oh crap!"
Nice save.
Great Video. Beautiful Wood. Thanks for all your time and effort filming and editing these videos for us.
where I live I've seen logs used as post. they were cut and cured to limit shrinking. I would use steel post and the box them for that wood look.
if the beam is rocking in the middle your saw bed is not straight. Try to sight down it and you should see the bend in the track.
I use to restore antique trunks, please always sand with the grain of the wood, when you put the finish on the grain pops and you will see the flaws. Alissa I love wood also I can totally relate.
On your mark, get set... Let the timber framing begin!
Hi! Great video guys, you really pushing out the human limits, I really enjoy viewing it. My father has a swing-blade sawmill we built 2 years ago. Positioning the log is basically the same I think. You don't have to use laser... just complicating the procedure. We always look for the crown in the log. Make sure the crown is always sideways as it would lie on the desk. Measure the butt diameter and the top diameter without the bark. Subtract the two numbers and divide it by two. Cut a piece of lumber to that thickness and place it under the top end. Wedge out the middle properly to avoid deflection. Secure the 3 supports with detachable locking pins beneath, staved deeply in the bark. From this starting position I use to do 1-2 horizontal cuts and same vertical cuts on the crowned side. The goal here is to reach at least 2/3 of the log length with that cut. After that we repositioning the log on the crowned side, now it's a flat surface except the ends and than the cutting party begins. Definitely needs some wedging 1/8 - 1/4 here and there, that's usual. This precision is fairly acceptable at over 12 ft logs. Hope it is useful! Good job guys! Keep it goin'!
To plan your beams faster maybe look into the planer attachment for your wood mizer deck
keep the 20 minute + videos coming !!!!!
start the sawing from the small end of the log...that's what we do...love your videos..
love it! asks for advice and comments on two week old material... hes already LONG past this. Ha! =0)
Tobin Belisle he will see the comments before milling the house part...these were just for the garage.
I would blank lacquer them. The nice grains come out even more then, and it protects the wood.
I have a smaller electric planer at work, and what I figured out about 18 years ago was that you need to do one long continuous runs other wise yes you will have flat spots but they will be lower that the rest of the surface. Trust me, long and steady.
You should probably make 2-3 adjustable V-blocks to hold up the ends and maybe the middle of the log for the first cut, that will stop it from rolling and will let you level the log.
Double check the tracking of your blade and move those blade guides in closer to get a flatter cut.
If you are still rocking on the bed after the first cut, get the bottom level and shim it tight for the second cut.
One more thing, since a log doesn't start flat, the weight of the log might bend it during the first cut and flipping it 180° could double that bend for the second cut if your sawmill bed is high in the middle.
My experience is more cutting steel with a horizontal bandsaw, where square and straight is usually not an issue but bad tracking and bending stock happen. Wood should be similar in a lot of ways but not all so maybe do some test cuts and look really hard to figure out exactly what is going wrong.
The logs I have cut were wood that had been tarped for a year or two to dry and not squared up, just debarked and sanded. I haven't cut enough green wood to tell you what is too wet but that is another thing to worry about.
Scribe and mark with a felt sharpie the USABLE center on each end of the log (under the bark, discounting flares and sweeps) then measure that center to a reference like if your ground is level then use your can't hook to lever the low end up and stick a piece of bark between the bunk and the log. One strong person can handle seriously heavy log this way. Happy milling!