Please just ask if you've any questions? Don't forget the full categorised index of all my videos at www.northlight-images.co.uk/keith-cooper-photography-videos-index/ If you'd like to make a small donation towards my testing, I have a Kofi page: "Buy me a coffee" ko-fi.com/keithcooper See the video notes for article links and profile information. Buying stuff? I also have some affiliate links which earn me a small commission if used. US Amazon photo/print gear: amzn.to/3l9vJC6 B&H Photo: www.bhphotovideo.com/?BI=2008&KBID=2711&DFF=d10-v1-t8-x4 Adorama: www.adorama.com/?
I have just started to learn printing using the Epson et-8550 following Keith’s advice. Not having to be constantly anxious about cartridge replacement costs really allows me to experiment and try different papers and techniques as I learn. So far it has been very rewarding. I have learned so much from this channel!
Thanks - I think many underestimate just how much perceived ink costs can put people off. When I had large format printers which needed a black ink swap for different paper types, it stopped all sorts of 'quick tests' ... Epson told me it wasn't that important to people - I always disagreed ;-)
I print custom made Physical editions of Games for myself. I make videos and share then online. I got the Epson ET-8550 after watching these videos. I have to say I am impressed with that printer. My boxes have better printing quality than what you get from the store. Really happy with the printer and happy about the videos Keith makes. I share more of his videos to people who want to print. Thank you Keith for helping me with your videos.
Great video, I now have an ET8550 but prior to that I had an epson R2400 A3 printer with cartridges. Since using the 8550 I think not having to worry about how much ink is left in an low cartridge , and will it run out in the middle of a large print job, is the best benefit for the ink tank technology. Now all you only have to do is top off the color and keep going. I call it cartridge anxiety! Along with the the frugality of this 8550 it has been a game changer for my printing.
You are my Simon D'entremont for printers now, Keith. Best printer RUclipsr I have seen so far. Just getting into the topic and thinking about buying the Canon Pro 1100 for my Canon R6 Mark 2 pics. But still need to see more of your videos before my final decision. Great staff! Please keep on posting, Keith! Best wishes from Germany
Thanks! - It would be nice to have just 20% of his subscriber numbers too I'd just note that for my printer reviews, there is always far more info in the main written ones [and links to all associated videos] www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-pro-1100-printer-review/
I 100% agree the the screen brightness level. When I got my two new monitors. I purchased a used color monki. I calibrated the screen and the printer. I was surprised to find, I had to turn the screen brightness level to about 50%.
My biggest gripe is the waste tank on printers are not replacable (includes the G550 which I have just bought) on many of the cheaper printers and a perfectly good printer has to be binned because of the waste tank is full even though it prints perfectly up to this point. All waste tanks should be replaceable in all printers.
Oh boy do I agree here!! I'm going to pick on Canon now, because I am most familiar with them. I find it STUPID that until you get to the PRO-1100 level, the maintenance cart isn't replaceable. And on ALL models, why the hell can't we easily replace the strip that captures the over spray from doing borderless prints?
I began my printer journey 2021 (Epson sc-p900) and I don't know how I would have made it without this channel. I printed 33 A2 for an exhibition, a lot of trial and error, and many hours of watching yt. Well, mostly you Keith - i don't know how to thank you! On topic: Interesting as always, I do nozzle check every week to oil my 900, seems to work well - only one deep clean in 3+ years.
Thanks - glad to have helped! Only thing I'd ever ask is that if you get a chance, just pass the channel details on? I'm never entirely sure my style of stuff does very well on YT, so any promo helps!
@@KeithCooper Keith you’re known at B&H photo(photo printer section). Every time I’ve gone there, someone either brings you up, or they know who you are. It’s just a matter of time.
As always a very interesting post with good advice from Keith. I use the ET-8550 since more than 2.5 years and I am very proud of what it prints. I had a problem just once with the feeding system not working anymore but the printer was replaced at no cost. About the scanner requirements of printer-scanners i've owned: Network-intended AiO printer-scanners should be able to scan multiple pages from the scanner display so that one shouldn't have to "travel" between the computer and the scanner for each and every page. The app helps but has some limitations. The last thing is that scanners of this level should be able to automatically recognize the items to scan and not keep the whole scanned surface unless requested. An optional scanner feeder might also be useful. There is one thing I want to add for those using the metric system: 10x15cm is not the same as 4x6" and the factory-provided 10x15cm is probably printing 4x6" (10.16x15.24cm) and that is when pictures are printed off-center. So be sure to check if your photo paper is 10x15cm, 4x6" or even 10.2x15.2cm. You might need to create your own custom paper format.
Thanks - sound's reasonable - but absolutely not for the 8550 please! I'll admit that having an ADF almost disqualifies a printer from me reviewing it ;-) I studiously avoid any significant testing of 'office functionality', sparing me from what goes way beyond my own personal boredom thresholds :-) :-) It gets me out of testing a lot of cheaper printers...
I sold my Canon Pro300 and got the Epson ET8550. I print on RedRiver paper (still expensive with the US$ conversion to Canadian $ plus the shipping cost) but I’m saving on ink cost. I’m very happy with the overall quality of my prints. I work from a MacPro M1 and change the screen luminosity to photography P3-D-65 No issues…..so far !
Hi Keith. I've been trying to understand your thinking on soft proofing after having watched this video and the one on gamut. I was taught that the purpose of soft proofing is to save paper and ink and the need for multiple test prints. It has been my experience that with a properly calibrated monitor and a good icc profile, the final print will closely match the soft proofed screen version. So if I am able to achieve a soft proofed version on my monitor that I like, the final print will closely match that and I am usually happy with the print.
Sure, I'm not against soft proofing as such, just I feel it it can all too easily, be overly and habitually used. Sometimes promoting too strong a reliance on screens, and at its simplest, just not really looking at prints as an endpoint. It is easily taught, vastly easier in a YT video than showing how to get a feel for how screens/prints differ - and much loved by the Lightroom training industry ;-) In some of my personal 1-2-1 print training I'll specifically ask people NOT to use it for our first few prints, to encourage people to really look at prints - multiple versions. It can come in later when they can more readily recognise issues where it can be usefully applied. This is one of the reasons I don't do video based training at all. Hope that makes some sense? Without wishing to denigrate an important skillset, I see it more as a part of Joinery than Carpentry?
@@KeithCooper Keith, I now better understand now your point of view, although my own experience with soft proofing has been good. Thanks. (As you descrbe it though, wouldn't soft proofing be carpentry [more rough work] than fine furniture joinery. 🙂)
@@MarkNF1 Thanks - quite possibly, I've just seen some exquisite furniture hand made by people who described themselves as carpenters. I need a better analogy :-)
Apple printer driver issues: System settings > Printers: right click in the field with printers and choose “reset printer settings. Download and install the complete suite of canon software for your printer. Lastly add the printer to the System settings and play close attention to the dropdown field for the software. You might have to click on the arrow and select the driver yourself. Avoiding the AirPrint option.
Resetting printer settings is never something I'd automatically select - it has uses but can wipe out all sorts of things a user might have set. I'd also use the Canon printer setup site, not downloading drivers... Avoiding AirPrint is covered [with pictures] in many of my printer reviews :-) Including Epson ones, where this is also an issue... It is of course subtly different with different systems, and given how many Mac users don't have the latest system software [for eminently good reasons], a continual source of questions.
@ True resetting then printer settings is a last resort. If you have any other printers you will have to add them back again. This is trivial unless there are other photo printers with profiles installed 😢
I still generally prefer printing from my 10.15 Mac Pro from a settings predictability POV ;-) The PRO-1100 is the first printer, I've reviewed where I specifically had to do testing from my MBP and Mac Studio [15.2]
Keith, can you make a video on what we do with all the printings that you advise to do. Put them in a frame is costly so we will chose some of them on the walls until the walls are full of photos, put hem in books ? other ideas ? I like to print but then where are the prints in my home ?
You see the table I'm sitting by? It's a chart drawer - the draws go the full depth of the table. I've another one of those which can hold hundreds of prints. The better ones are interleaved with archival tissue paper. Selected prints go into frames around the house... Other than that, what to actually do with prints is left as an exercise to the viewer ;-)
As to the "cleaning", I guess several things are happening at that moment. In a pigment ink printer. The pigments are held in suspense in the fluid and after some time standing still the pigments will sink. Also, the pigments could clog a line. Note that this includes the paths inside the print head. The (unanswered) question then is what fraction in cleaning is applied to the sedimentation problem versus the head clogging problem. In the case of clogging as biggest threat, I would expect the printers with the smallest droplet size to be able to be better at this. Also, in one brand's print head, the "pump action" in nozzles relies on heat and that may increase the need to "clean". The other technology has smaller droplets and has a sort of cold pinching action.
Thanks Keith Cooper for the content you create. I bought an Epson ET 8550 from Amazon a week ago. And sadly I have encountered the roller marks problem. Now I am hesitating whether to try to replace the printer with the same model or rather consider the Canon pro 200. I understand that many buyers are facing the roller marks problem, some turn a blind eye to it, others blame the paper, but I think Epson is being unfair by not recalling defective products.
Relatively few see this problem - If it had done so with the one we purchased, it would have gone back. Complaints get amplified on the internet, so I feel I should point this out. Yes, it is also the paper's fault occasionally - the printer worked fine with the ones listed in the main [ie written] review. www.northlight-images.co.uk/epson-et-8550-printer-review/
My only complaint about my 8550 was that it had a terrible time connecting via wifi to my router. I fixed that with a LAN cable. I find I'm using more grey than anything, blue next, then yellow.
You must be the only chap that actually covers this subject . None of the other RUclipsr Togs ever talk about printing . The only time i ever got image print was in Jessops a few yr back .. tbh end product was dreadful . Not what i expected . Wasted my money !! What format is best ... to copy / print from JPEG or PNG ?? from My pc is very old . tho has Win10 .. What pc specs is req to operate a modern printer ??
Thanks - Happy to cover this - just wish it attracted some of their numbers ;-) When exporting an image to print, a full [max] quality JPEG will suffice. No need to set any special colour [icc] profile. Personally, I print from the likes of Photoshop - you can easily go via one of the [free] Canon/Epson software packages. I can't help with windows related info though [only Macs here] but the 8550 has a win10 driver IIRC. If you're relatively new to print, have a read of my written 8550 review - it, and the linked videos, cover a lot of the fundamentals. www.northlight-images.co.uk/epson-et-8550-printer-review/
Hi Keith firstly Happy and Healthy new year When you mention screen brightness is it something that we should check in nits or just by the look to the eye Thanks Dave
Thanks - I'll set a brightness when doing calibration, so typically 90-100 cd/m2 [or your choice of units...] Even for people without measurement kit I'd just note that it's usually well below 50% of full brightness, and more often nearer 30%
Thanks for another good video about printers. As you say, we are getting close to good print quality, however, I am still surprised that Epson still has problems with "pizza marks" on some paper types, with there p900 serie is as if they have not focused on this part since their old Stylus Photo 2100 which had the same problem so it is a 20 year old problem!
Always informative videos. I guess what bothers me the most about the cost of ink is that the cartridge cost much more than the ink it contains. What a waste every time I throw an empty cartridge into the trash. Recycling is a hoax because much of the world's plastics never make it to the recycle process.
Another biggest omission is the lack of a test print function. In the chemical photography days, if I had to print an A2 size (594mm*420mm =~= 23.4"*16.5"), I would adjust the enlarger (a projector for darkroom use) to the proper height and crop for the print I wanted (at 100% A2, that is). Focus, set exposure, colour filters if not B&W. Next I would take a small sheet of paper from the same production batch (identical ICC profile) and place it somewhere in the frame where I felt there was a detail critical to proper gradation and exposure. Expose, develop, assess, potentially adjust, print the whole thing on A2. I want that as option in the dialogue to the print function. Select (e.g.) A2 for real with all parameters and then a fork into the test print of a section on a paper size of my choice (let's say between 4"*6" and max 50% of the full size). I've had cases where I do the whole routine and everything looks good on screen and yet I get false colours. Wasting half an A2 worth of pigment ink and a sheet of art paper. I calibrate my monitors, including the ambient light, and the printer/inks, and the paper. I also shoot calibration shots in camera. Still this happens. And I have no clue why. Not asking why, but just sharing I need that old school test option. I'd select a 5"*7" test print size and place the matching graphical box in the UI somewhere in/over the A2. Set for the real full size print, test print, assess, potentially adjust, print the whole thing on 100% of target size. Wam bam thank you someone.
That's a software, not printer function, I'm minded to say...? For any system to cover your requirements it would be complex enough to not suit many, yet alone the matter of people understanding how or why they would use it. I do the same in photoshop and with a paper cutter. Calibration shots often have little to do with this - camera profiling is useful for some studio uses, but pointless for many. Good colour management, soft proofing, understanding the paper and the occasional test print of images [and known test images] cover all the bases I'd consider. Lots of reasons and potential solutions with current software...
As usual Keith a refreshing approach to the world of printing. I’m always cognisant of my failures when printing, even though my printer is a very elderly PRO100 it is capable of producing very nice prints . What I’m not capable of is getting consistent results even following what I consider to be exactly the same process each time. The only consistent process for me is to export the images from whatever program I am using as a tiff file and then print from the native apple printer application where I just set the media and custom paper profile .. then it is ok. Trial and error is expensive and of course cannon PPL no longer supports my old printer. Ah well onwards and upwards :-)
@@KeithCooper I can't say whether its dropped for windows.. but for recent macOS it went about two years ago. Things don't go on forever and at some point update support has to be removed, but actually removing what was working very well at an arbitrary point was a bit of a nuisance. I've been awaiting the arrival to market of the 1100 and I'd buy one in a heartbeat but as a very occasional printer it's the aforementioned cost of ink that's a concern. For my big prints I currently drop it out to a lab. Be nice to do it all at home. For me its "mainly" a retirement hobby ( I do sell the odd canvas) but in truth none of it really needs to make financial sense anyway :-)
The biggest omission is that it will not tell me that I put the paper in upside-down. Also, paper manufacturers need to label the plastic bag in the box with what sides they are.
I think you have to do stuff like this every once in a while to remember :-) I get to test a lot of papers and printers so am quite careful with extra labels if needed.
I agree with this. I do not have this problem myself but for example, the pro 300 detects if the media type was changed ( paper ) why can’t it detect if it is on the wrong side?.
@KeithCooper it's not that in my case, while valid response. I take the bag out of the box and next forget if I placed it right side up. Constfused I call that
Hey Keith, thank you so much for being willing to share your knowledge with everyone! I am a amature astrophotographer and am thinking for purchasing an Epson 8550 to start turning my pictures into prints! Since I don't have the best monitor for working with color I was wondering if getting a color calibration tool like the Spyder X Pro would be necessary? Are tools like that critical for making good prints or is it just a nice bonus to make it easier? Or would my money be better spent of just getting a better monitor in the first place? Thanks in advance
A tricky one - in the past, a calibrator was vital, but these days 'out of the box' monitor quality is much better. I'd now likely go for a better and bigger monitor... Then if you get more serious about things, a calibrator will give you even better results.
A guy scoffed at me when I said my images are printed on Ilford galerie prestige Smooth, and said to me oh so not archival then even though they're printed on a Canon 6100. As for screen brightness I've probably said it on other videos you mention it, that on the 0 - 100 scale my monitor has for its brightness level mine is set to 20
Why would the Epson 8550 only work well with "photo" paper? Ive tried exceptional quality cardstock that commercial-grade (non laser) printers work tremendously with, however, I end up with a muted color regardless of profile.
Media selection - see my review as to why the VFA media setting is so important. As to card stock, it can be as exceptional as you like, but unless it is made for [aqueous] inkjet use it will often be lacklustre in performance See www.northlight-images.co.uk/epson-et-8550-printer-review/
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Thanks for your video. I have a Mac and an Epson SureColour P600. No matter what I do, I just can't get into advanced printer settings. I want to turn off color management for certain prints, but I can't. This is driving me crazy. Can you help me?
As an extension of the matter of cleaning ink costs, how about better handling of intermittent use? So many of us would love to have a medium to large format printer that we could use for bursts of production following a vacation, a photo project, or for some special purpose, and be able to then set it aside for a month or two, or three, or six without having to virtually overhaul it before printing again. I'd love to buy a printer for my winter home, since there are few local print services in the area - but it would sit unused for six months a year, and the associated unproductive costs would be horrendous. A printer in the class of the 8550 or 8570 would be wonderful for this - if the tanks could be drained, a cleaning fluid introduced, the tubes and nozzles cleared, and the whole thing put in mothballs till I return!
Nope - never. My own personal reasons: Compatibility - don't fancy re-making every icc profile Warranty: Quite like this with my printer Longevity: Who knows? Save money: Nope, not worth it to me... However the main reason I don't test them is that most printers I review are loans and the manufacturers probably don't want them returning with some random ink in them ;-) There are uses, such as dye-sub inks, or monochrome ink sets, but not ones I've had any options to test
Hi Keith. A quick question , I'm into my astro photography and after many years ive decided to print and frame some shots. most of my images are of nebulae so have stand out colours and contrasts. I cant see that any reviewer including yourself have ever done a printer review using this media. I purchased a Epson 8550 but after many a trial i found that the end results were far from pleasing . Ive now ordered a canon pro200 so ill see how i get on. Can you please consider this type of media in one of your future reviews. Thanks
Media? That's the sort of paper in my testing? Email me at Northlight Images, if you've some good ones to test with and don't mind sharing? I've a few good Moon shots, but live in the middle of a city, so no deep sky stuff [did I ever mention I originally went to university to do Astrophysics :-) ] For the 8550, a metallic gloss like titanium gloss 300 works a treat This is great for this sort of image if you get the right sort of paper and of course, a correct icc profile. I'm minded to think that if you could not get good results on an 8550, the pro-200 is unlikely to be much different
@@KeithCooper To be honest Keith ,i think the problem was with the printer. And after contacting customer support and reading issues that other users had experienced some with the same issue as print drag and lines . i got to the point of no return and sent it back. Hence the change to the much positively reviewed pro200.Ill send a pic over to you via email and also a print from the 8550 so you can see the end result. Regards Chris
Thanks Keith. Another great video. I’ve just found on the screen settings of my 8550 an option for “thick paper” I haven’t had the chance to print yet but do you think it might help with the random marks I sometimes get using Matt paper? Thank again
Thanks again for your helping insights. I agree that prints are the only "real" photographs! Projected images are digital "art" (in some case we can remove the quotes/speech marks, but mostly no)! I currently have my screen at 35% and pull the shades in the room. There is some light leakage, especially on bright days (although the windows are on the north/non-sun side), but I generally get good results. Re ink costs, I've not done a scientific study, but my Epson P900 rarely needs cleaning (especially if used at least every week or two), so that's not a significant cost. From what I've seen, the actual ink cost for even an A2 print (generally 16" x 20" on 17" x 22" paper) is something like US$2--a relative pittance. Obviously, the nature of the image matters a lot but it's cheap vs cheaper. I use only high-quality paper (mostly Epson-branded, but the usual suspects as well), and the most expensive sheets run under US$10 for an A2 sheet (and most people don't want prints that large). Add to that a decent frame, acid/lignin-free "archival" matting and backer board, plus wire for hanging, and the total cost for producing a framed print is a fraction of what you should reasonably expect to get from a gallery sale (even minus commission). If you really want to jack up your costs, farm out your printing and framing.
Hi Keith, you brought up printers leaving marks on paper in this video. I just bought a pro-300 and I've noticed what I think are called 'pizza wheel marks' on prints but only under a very specific condition. That condition being that I have to shine a flashlight on it at roughly a 45 degree angle and look at the print from about a foot away. Under what I would call normal lighting and viewing conditions I see no marks, even when Im looking for them. Do you think this might be a problem? My main worry is that the marks might get worse over time and become more easily visible.
My usual answer is 'only if you have people looking at prints in that manner' ;-) I've never come across it getting any worse, where it's been noticed.
@@KeithCooper Thanks, thats exactly the answer I was hoping for! Sidenote: next time I go look at prints in a gallery I'll be bringing my flashlight, lol
I don't know about printing borderless on any size paper. I think that may increase complexity in paper handling and "printer drivers". My suggestion would be to obtain a decent paper cutter. By the way, for borders, I used to place the borders in my picture. Is that cheating? I'm not a pro, so I can select low-tech solutions. Thanks for another good video. Happy 2025. I'm going to try focus stacking for tabletop pictures.
I’d love to be able to load ICC profiles into the printer such that all users would then see the new paper option show up and they wouldn’t need to know ICC profiles even exist.
An interesting idea - one that, well implemented, could address several usability related colour management issues. At the moment there is no OS facility [AFAIK Mac or Win?] for loading profiles from printers on the fly and making them available to applications needing to use them. That and profile checking is often only carried out when applications first start up.
I've gotten a little G550 for 100€ on sale a year or so back. I've printed 597 times as per the last nozzle check and the tanks (with the ink that came included in that 100€ purchase) haven't even reached half yet, some of the colours are almost there. Not counting the numerous papers I tried, I'd say 16cents a print is not bad on the ink side. And that's my cost right now, when I finally deplete it, it will be more like 6-8cents, rendering the printer purchase virtually free for all the learning I did. When I eventually go to a bigger printer, I'll be much more cost efficient of that, or just much more efficient in general - paper choice, editing for print, etc etc.
@@KeithCooper I use it on a Mac with your profiles, and you're right, it becomes a little hit and hope sometimes, but nonetheless I wouldn't have been able to justify a more expensive printer at the time, and this has been amazing for me.
I have found that Epson doesn't always make print drivers for Mac either anymore. My new Epson forces me to use AirPrint since Epson has not made a driver for it.
v13.6 of the driver supports 15.2 AFAIK Just make sure you have not installed the AirPort driver by mistake? I have a recent 8550 video which specifically covers this
@@KeithCooper Thank you for pointing that out. I was hoping they had one for Apple Chips but the Intel one is now installed and operational. I will make sure that all of our computers in the house have this driver installed.
It seems to me, that the printer companies could use a non-ink solution, maybe vinegar as a starting idea for cleaning the heads on a printer. If something as my suggestion won't work than maybe the base medium of ink, without the coloration added should be available as a cleaner and at a much lower price because it would not need the critical standards that an ink, dyes, or pigment would need. Let's face it, the printer companies know how to clean the head without using ink, they just want us to burn through more ink. Their business theology is all wrong and for me, almost makes me hostile towards these brands. To me this is just plain abuse by the manufacturers and therefore they have become irrelevant to me. Just a 5% walk-away by customers will put these companies in a panic. Maybe we should. I know this is harsh towards these companies, but it used to be that the major brands would do their very best to offer good products at a fair price without putting some bits and pieces in the process that continually abuses their customers. In my younger years I would look for the features I want in a product. Now what I have to do is disqualify products until I find the one that is the least abusive for my needs. That means no brand loyalty. As a last complaint, I run Linux. Fix your d*** drivers! Great video!
Not really, I'm minded to suggest - once you have flushed out ink to use cleaner and then reloaded the ink afterwards, to flush out the cleaner, you end up with a massively more complex system which uses at least as much ink. My suspicion is that no printer maker will ever likely meet your requirements.
I don’t buy a printer because all of them that I know of require their use fairly frequently. I can not print something, wait 6 months, and still have a printer that will work. It will be all clogged up with dried ink. I assume this is still the case.
If I'm not printing regularly, I'll run a Nozzle Check every 3 days using plain paper (on a Pro-300). It uses every ink, but only a relatively small amount of each. I even remind myself by setting up a recurring event on my calendar! Printing irregularly is about the worst thing you can to in terms of ink usage.
What about a user replaceable overspray sponge cartridge that can be removed when you print too much borderless: No need for a expensive service intervention and your printer gone for a few weeks ? Please no chip in those overspray sponge cartridges, if that would exist in the future, but I am afraid it will be chipped to make money from trash bins.
Please just ask if you've any questions? Don't forget the full categorised index of all my videos at www.northlight-images.co.uk/keith-cooper-photography-videos-index/ If you'd like to make a small donation towards my testing, I have a Kofi page: "Buy me a coffee" ko-fi.com/keithcooper See the video notes for article links and profile information.
Buying stuff? I also have some affiliate links which earn me a small commission if used.
US Amazon photo/print gear: amzn.to/3l9vJC6
B&H Photo: www.bhphotovideo.com/?BI=2008&KBID=2711&DFF=d10-v1-t8-x4
Adorama: www.adorama.com/?
I have just started to learn printing using the Epson et-8550 following Keith’s advice. Not having to be constantly anxious about cartridge replacement costs really allows me to experiment and try different papers and techniques as I learn. So far it has been very rewarding. I have learned so much from this channel!
Thanks - I think many underestimate just how much perceived ink costs can put people off.
When I had large format printers which needed a black ink swap for different paper types, it stopped all sorts of 'quick tests' ... Epson told me it wasn't that important to people - I always disagreed ;-)
The major part of print is always paper, don’t worry about ink
@@dw-et3gm More easily said than acted upon.
That is specifically why I mentioned the 'perceived ink costs' in the video and earlier reply.
Keith, I am finding all your videos absolutely brilliant. I have learnt so much by looking at these. A big thank you.
Glad you like them! - Thanks
I print custom made Physical editions of Games for myself. I make videos and share then online. I got the Epson ET-8550 after watching these videos. I have to say I am impressed with that printer. My boxes have better printing quality than what you get from the store. Really happy with the printer and happy about the videos Keith makes. I share more of his videos to people who want to print. Thank you Keith for helping me with your videos.
Thanks - glad to hear they were of use!
Oh boy, nothing like Keith video to start the day
My wife prefers them as an aid to getting to sleep :-)
😊@@KeithCooper
There are few sources for expert no nonsense printing information. To me Keith is #1 and he deserves his (nearly) 50,000 subscribers. Thank you Keith.
Thanks - much appreciated!
Great video, I now have an ET8550 but prior to that I had an epson R2400 A3 printer with cartridges. Since using the 8550 I think not having to worry about how much ink is left in an low cartridge , and will it run out in the middle of a large print job, is the best benefit for the ink tank technology. Now all you only have to do is top off the color and keep going. I call it cartridge anxiety! Along with the the frugality of this 8550 it has been a game changer for my printing.
Thanks - I know some are inclined to dismiss this, but it is real.
Glad to have stuff here of interest!
You are my Simon D'entremont for printers now, Keith. Best printer RUclipsr I have seen so far. Just getting into the topic and thinking about buying the Canon Pro 1100 for my Canon R6 Mark 2 pics. But still need to see more of your videos before my final decision. Great staff! Please keep on posting, Keith! Best wishes from Germany
Thanks! - It would be nice to have just 20% of his subscriber numbers too
I'd just note that for my printer reviews, there is always far more info in the main written ones [and links to all associated videos]
www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-pro-1100-printer-review/
As always, useful and worthwhile information. Thank you Keith.
Thanks!
Thank you for the info
Thanks
I 100% agree the the screen brightness level. When I got my two new monitors. I purchased a used color monki. I calibrated the screen and the printer. I was surprised to find, I had to turn the screen brightness level to about 50%.
Yes, usually quite a significant reduction...
Thanks, Keith - your videos are invaluable for me as someone who has printed a fair amount, but still has problems! Cheers from Washington State.
Thanks - glad to be of help!
My biggest gripe is the waste tank on printers are not replacable (includes the G550 which I have just bought) on many of the cheaper printers and a perfectly good printer has to be binned because of the waste tank is full even though it prints perfectly up to this point. All waste tanks should be replaceable in all printers.
Yes - good point!
Oh boy do I agree here!! I'm going to pick on Canon now, because I am most familiar with them. I find it STUPID that until you get to the PRO-1100 level, the maintenance cart isn't replaceable. And on ALL models, why the hell can't we easily replace the strip that captures the over spray from doing borderless prints?
I began my printer journey 2021 (Epson sc-p900) and I don't know how I would have made it without this channel. I printed 33 A2 for an exhibition, a lot of trial and error, and many hours of watching yt. Well, mostly you Keith - i don't know how to thank you! On topic: Interesting as always, I do nozzle check every week to oil my 900, seems to work well - only one deep clean in 3+ years.
Thanks - glad to have helped!
Only thing I'd ever ask is that if you get a chance, just pass the channel details on?
I'm never entirely sure my style of stuff does very well on YT, so any promo helps!
@@KeithCooper Keith you’re known at B&H photo(photo printer section). Every time I’ve gone there, someone either brings you up, or they know who you are. It’s just a matter of time.
@@memcrew1 Thanks - that really helps :-)
You are so right about screen brightness.
Thanks - one of my cheaper 'fixes' :-)
As always a very interesting post with good advice from Keith. I use the ET-8550 since more than 2.5 years and I am very proud of what it prints. I had a problem just once with the feeding system not working anymore but the printer was replaced at no cost.
About the scanner requirements of printer-scanners i've owned:
Network-intended AiO printer-scanners should be able to scan multiple pages from the scanner display so that one shouldn't have to "travel" between the computer and the scanner for each and every page. The app helps but has some limitations.
The last thing is that scanners of this level should be able to automatically recognize the items to scan and not keep the whole scanned surface unless requested. An optional scanner feeder might also be useful.
There is one thing I want to add for those using the metric system: 10x15cm is not the same as 4x6" and the factory-provided 10x15cm is probably printing 4x6" (10.16x15.24cm) and that is when pictures are printed off-center. So be sure to check if your photo paper is 10x15cm, 4x6" or even 10.2x15.2cm. You might need to create your own custom paper format.
Thanks - sound's reasonable - but absolutely not for the 8550 please!
I'll admit that having an ADF almost disqualifies a printer from me reviewing it ;-)
I studiously avoid any significant testing of 'office functionality', sparing me from what goes way beyond my own personal boredom thresholds :-) :-) It gets me out of testing a lot of cheaper printers...
Thanks Keith
Thanks
I sold my Canon Pro300 and got the Epson ET8550. I print on RedRiver paper (still expensive with the US$ conversion to Canadian $ plus the shipping cost) but I’m saving on ink cost. I’m very happy with the overall quality of my prints. I work from a MacPro M1 and change the screen luminosity to photography P3-D-65 No issues…..so far !
Glad it's working out well for you!
Wise words .Thanks Keith .
Thanks
Hi Keith. I've been trying to understand your thinking on soft proofing after having watched this video and the one on gamut. I was taught that the purpose of soft proofing is to save paper and ink and the need for multiple test prints.
It has been my experience that with a properly calibrated monitor and a good icc profile, the final print will closely match the soft proofed screen version. So if I am able to achieve a soft proofed version on my monitor that I like, the final print will closely match that and I am usually happy with the print.
Sure, I'm not against soft proofing as such, just I feel it it can all too easily, be overly and habitually used. Sometimes promoting too strong a reliance on screens, and at its simplest, just not really looking at prints as an endpoint.
It is easily taught, vastly easier in a YT video than showing how to get a feel for how screens/prints differ - and much loved by the Lightroom training industry ;-)
In some of my personal 1-2-1 print training I'll specifically ask people NOT to use it for our first few prints, to encourage people to really look at prints - multiple versions.
It can come in later when they can more readily recognise issues where it can be usefully applied. This is one of the reasons I don't do video based training at all.
Hope that makes some sense?
Without wishing to denigrate an important skillset, I see it more as a part of Joinery than Carpentry?
@@KeithCooper Keith, I now better understand now your point of view, although my own experience with soft proofing has been good. Thanks.
(As you descrbe it though, wouldn't soft proofing be carpentry [more rough work] than fine furniture joinery. 🙂)
@@MarkNF1 Thanks - quite possibly, I've just seen some exquisite furniture hand made by people who described themselves as carpenters. I need a better analogy :-)
Apple printer driver issues:
System settings > Printers: right click in the field with printers and choose “reset printer settings.
Download and install the complete suite of canon software for your printer.
Lastly add the printer to the System settings and play close attention to the dropdown field for the software. You might have to click on the arrow and select the driver yourself. Avoiding the AirPrint option.
Resetting printer settings is never something I'd automatically select - it has uses but can wipe out all sorts of things a user might have set.
I'd also use the Canon printer setup site, not downloading drivers...
Avoiding AirPrint is covered [with pictures] in many of my printer reviews :-)
Including Epson ones, where this is also an issue...
It is of course subtly different with different systems, and given how many Mac users don't have the latest system software [for eminently good reasons], a continual source of questions.
@ True resetting then printer settings is a last resort. If you have any other printers you will have to add them back again. This is trivial unless there are other photo printers with profiles installed 😢
I still generally prefer printing from my 10.15 Mac Pro from a settings predictability POV ;-)
The PRO-1100 is the first printer, I've reviewed where I specifically had to do testing from my MBP and Mac Studio [15.2]
Keith, can you make a video on what we do with all the printings that you advise to do. Put them in a frame is costly so we will chose some of them on the walls until the walls are full of photos, put hem in books ? other ideas ? I like to print but then where are the prints in my home ?
You see the table I'm sitting by?
It's a chart drawer - the draws go the full depth of the table. I've another one of those which can hold hundreds of prints. The better ones are interleaved with archival tissue paper.
Selected prints go into frames around the house...
Other than that, what to actually do with prints is left as an exercise to the viewer ;-)
As to the "cleaning", I guess several things are happening at that moment. In a pigment ink printer. The pigments are held in suspense in the fluid and after some time standing still the pigments will sink. Also, the pigments could clog a line. Note that this includes the paths inside the print head.
The (unanswered) question then is what fraction in cleaning is applied to the sedimentation problem versus the head clogging problem.
In the case of clogging as biggest threat, I would expect the printers with the smallest droplet size to be able to be better at this.
Also, in one brand's print head, the "pump action" in nozzles relies on heat and that may increase the need to "clean". The other technology has smaller droplets and has a sort of cold pinching action.
Yes, all info the companies don't share [not even to the fairly senior people I sometimes get to speak with] :-(
Great! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks Keith Cooper for the content you create. I bought an Epson ET 8550 from Amazon a week ago. And sadly I have encountered the roller marks problem. Now I am hesitating whether to try to replace the printer with the same model or rather consider the Canon pro 200. I understand that many buyers are facing the roller marks problem, some turn a blind eye to it, others blame the paper, but I think Epson is being unfair by not recalling defective products.
Relatively few see this problem - If it had done so with the one we purchased, it would have gone back. Complaints get amplified on the internet, so I feel I should point this out.
Yes, it is also the paper's fault occasionally - the printer worked fine with the ones listed in the main [ie written] review.
www.northlight-images.co.uk/epson-et-8550-printer-review/
My only complaint about my 8550 was that it had a terrible time connecting via wifi to my router. I fixed that with a LAN cable. I find I'm using more grey than anything, blue next, then yellow.
Yes, I've heard that, but not been able to duplicate any issues to check.
Grey, when present in an ink set is almost always the most used ink.
You must be the only chap that actually covers this subject . None of the other RUclipsr Togs ever talk about printing .
The only time i ever got image print was in Jessops a few yr back .. tbh end product was dreadful . Not what i expected . Wasted my money !!
What format is best ... to copy / print from JPEG or PNG ?? from
My pc is very old . tho has Win10 .. What pc specs is req to operate a modern printer ??
Thanks - Happy to cover this - just wish it attracted some of their numbers ;-)
When exporting an image to print, a full [max] quality JPEG will suffice. No need to set any special colour [icc] profile. Personally, I print from the likes of Photoshop - you can easily go via one of the [free] Canon/Epson software packages.
I can't help with windows related info though [only Macs here] but the 8550 has a win10 driver IIRC.
If you're relatively new to print, have a read of my written 8550 review - it, and the linked videos, cover a lot of the fundamentals.
www.northlight-images.co.uk/epson-et-8550-printer-review/
@KeithCooper Cheers much appreciated
Hi Keith firstly Happy and Healthy new year
When you mention screen brightness is it something that we should check in nits or just by the look to the eye
Thanks
Dave
Thanks - I'll set a brightness when doing calibration, so typically 90-100 cd/m2 [or your choice of units...]
Even for people without measurement kit I'd just note that it's usually well below 50% of full brightness, and more often nearer 30%
What I would like is for the ink to go down in price. I have the Pro300 and honestly the ink price is not bad at all but it should be cheaper.
I think this will more likely come from ink-tank printers. Those small carts always seem very wasteful of resources to me.
Thanks for another good video about printers. As you say, we are getting close to good print quality, however, I am still surprised that Epson still has problems with "pizza marks" on some paper types, with there p900 serie is as if they have not focused on this part since their old Stylus Photo 2100 which had the same problem so it is a 20 year old problem!
Yes - that was definitely something I was thinking of in the 'paper handling' section...
Always informative videos. I guess what bothers me the most about the cost of ink is that the cartridge cost much more than the ink it contains. What a waste every time I throw an empty cartridge into the trash. Recycling is a hoax because much of the world's plastics never make it to the recycle process.
Yes - if nothing else, that is what will hasten the move away from cartridges...
Another biggest omission is the lack of a test print function. In the chemical photography days, if I had to print an A2 size (594mm*420mm =~= 23.4"*16.5"), I would adjust the enlarger (a projector for darkroom use) to the proper height and crop for the print I wanted (at 100% A2, that is). Focus, set exposure, colour filters if not B&W.
Next I would take a small sheet of paper from the same production batch (identical ICC profile) and place it somewhere in the frame where I felt there was a detail critical to proper gradation and exposure. Expose, develop, assess, potentially adjust, print the whole thing on A2.
I want that as option in the dialogue to the print function. Select (e.g.) A2 for real with all parameters and then a fork into the test print of a section on a paper size of my choice (let's say between 4"*6" and max 50% of the full size).
I've had cases where I do the whole routine and everything looks good on screen and yet I get false colours. Wasting half an A2 worth of pigment ink and a sheet of art paper.
I calibrate my monitors, including the ambient light, and the printer/inks, and the paper.
I also shoot calibration shots in camera.
Still this happens.
And I have no clue why.
Not asking why, but just sharing I need that old school test option.
I'd select a 5"*7" test print size and place the matching graphical box in the UI somewhere in/over the A2.
Set for the real full size print, test print, assess, potentially adjust, print the whole thing on 100% of target size.
Wam bam thank you someone.
That's a software, not printer function, I'm minded to say...?
For any system to cover your requirements it would be complex enough to not suit many, yet alone the matter of people understanding how or why they would use it.
I do the same in photoshop and with a paper cutter.
Calibration shots often have little to do with this - camera profiling is useful for some studio uses, but pointless for many. Good colour management, soft proofing, understanding the paper and the occasional test print of images [and known test images] cover all the bases I'd consider. Lots of reasons and potential solutions with current software...
@KeithCooper - just answering your question "ways to get better prints" in video's title. Appreciate your feedback to mine as always ;)
As usual Keith a refreshing approach to the world of printing. I’m always cognisant of my failures when printing, even though my printer is a very elderly PRO100 it is capable of producing very nice prints . What I’m not capable of is getting consistent results even following what I consider to be exactly the same process each time. The only consistent process for me is to export the images from whatever program I am using as a tiff file and then print from the native apple printer application where I just set the media and custom paper profile .. then it is ok.
Trial and error is expensive and of course cannon PPL no longer supports my old printer. Ah well onwards and upwards :-)
Thanks.
I didn't know they had dropped PRO-100 support. Par for the course I'm afraid...
@@KeithCooper I can't say whether its dropped for windows.. but for recent macOS it went about two years ago. Things don't go on forever and at some point update support has to be removed, but actually removing what was working very well at an arbitrary point was a bit of a nuisance. I've been awaiting the arrival to market of the 1100 and I'd buy one in a heartbeat but as a very occasional printer it's the aforementioned cost of ink that's a concern. For my big prints I currently drop it out to a lab. Be nice to do it all at home. For me its "mainly" a retirement hobby ( I do sell the odd canvas) but in truth none of it really needs to make financial sense anyway :-)
The biggest omission is that it will not tell me that I put the paper in upside-down.
Also, paper manufacturers need to label the plastic bag in the box with what sides they are.
Not usually a problem - the damp finger test usually suffices - then you can put your own label on if it's that difficult to tell ;-)
I recently printed a photo of the moon with a not so tight crop on the wrong side of the paper. So much wasted black ink. Rookie mistakes!🤷♂
I think you have to do stuff like this every once in a while to remember :-)
I get to test a lot of papers and printers so am quite careful with extra labels if needed.
I agree with this. I do not have this problem myself but for example, the pro 300 detects if the media type was changed ( paper ) why can’t it detect if it is on the wrong side?.
@KeithCooper it's not that in my case, while valid response. I take the bag out of the box and next forget if I placed it right side up. Constfused I call that
Hey Keith, thank you so much for being willing to share your knowledge with everyone! I am a amature astrophotographer and am thinking for purchasing an Epson 8550 to start turning my pictures into prints! Since I don't have the best monitor for working with color I was wondering if getting a color calibration tool like the Spyder X Pro would be necessary? Are tools like that critical for making good prints or is it just a nice bonus to make it easier? Or would my money be better spent of just getting a better monitor in the first place? Thanks in advance
A tricky one - in the past, a calibrator was vital, but these days 'out of the box' monitor quality is much better. I'd now likely go for a better and bigger monitor...
Then if you get more serious about things, a calibrator will give you even better results.
A guy scoffed at me when I said my images are printed on Ilford galerie prestige Smooth, and said to me oh so not archival then even though they're printed on a Canon 6100.
As for screen brightness I've probably said it on other videos you mention it, that on the 0 - 100 scale my monitor has for its brightness level mine is set to 20
Yes, all too many 'know stuff' rather than actually understand it ;-)
@@KeithCooper sorry got caught editing(adding) to my comment not expecting you to reply so fast
Sorry - just checking how the newly published video was doing :-)
Yes - full brightness is something usually best avoided!
@@KeithCooperhopefully all your videos do well
Why would the Epson 8550 only work well with "photo" paper? Ive tried exceptional quality cardstock that commercial-grade (non laser) printers work tremendously with, however, I end up with a muted color regardless of profile.
Media selection - see my review as to why the VFA media setting is so important.
As to card stock, it can be as exceptional as you like, but unless it is made for [aqueous] inkjet use it will often be lacklustre in performance
See www.northlight-images.co.uk/epson-et-8550-printer-review/
Thanks for your video. I have a Mac and an Epson SureColour P600. No matter what I do, I just can't get into advanced printer settings. I want to turn off color management for certain prints, but I can't. This is driving me crazy. Can you help me?
Are you sure the right driver [not airprint] is installed?
I've not used an older printer on a current Mac though
@@KeithCooper Yes yes, I am quite sure that I do not use AirPrint
As an extension of the matter of cleaning ink costs, how about better handling of intermittent use? So many of us would love to have a medium to large format printer that we could use for bursts of production following a vacation, a photo project, or for some special purpose, and be able to then set it aside for a month or two, or three, or six without having to virtually overhaul it before printing again. I'd love to buy a printer for my winter home, since there are few local print services in the area - but it would sit unused for six months a year, and the associated unproductive costs would be horrendous. A printer in the class of the 8550 or 8570 would be wonderful for this - if the tanks could be drained, a cleaning fluid introduced, the tubes and nozzles cleared, and the whole thing put in mothballs till I return!
Yes, definitely an area which could be improved
Do you use compatible inks to save money or is it advisable to use authentic inks?
Nope - never. My own personal reasons:
Compatibility - don't fancy re-making every icc profile
Warranty: Quite like this with my printer
Longevity: Who knows?
Save money: Nope, not worth it to me...
However the main reason I don't test them is that most printers I review are loans and the manufacturers probably don't want them returning with some random ink in them ;-)
There are uses, such as dye-sub inks, or monochrome ink sets, but not ones I've had any options to test
Thanks Keith, you just confirmed what I was thinking 😁
Hi Keith.
A quick question , I'm into my astro photography and after many years ive decided to print and frame some shots. most of my images are of nebulae so have stand out colours and contrasts. I cant see that any reviewer including yourself have ever done a printer review using this media.
I purchased a Epson 8550 but after many a trial i found that the end results were far from pleasing . Ive now ordered a canon pro200 so ill see how i get on.
Can you please consider this type of media in one of your future reviews. Thanks
Media? That's the sort of paper in my testing?
Email me at Northlight Images, if you've some good ones to test with and don't mind sharing?
I've a few good Moon shots, but live in the middle of a city, so no deep sky stuff [did I ever mention I originally went to university to do Astrophysics :-) ]
For the 8550, a metallic gloss like titanium gloss 300 works a treat
This is great for this sort of image if you get the right sort of paper and of course, a correct icc profile.
I'm minded to think that if you could not get good results on an 8550, the pro-200 is unlikely to be much different
@@KeithCooper To be honest Keith ,i think the problem was with the printer. And after contacting customer support and reading issues that other users had experienced some with the same issue as print drag and lines . i got to the point of no return and sent it back. Hence the change to the much positively reviewed pro200.Ill send a pic over to you via email and also a print from the 8550 so you can see the end result.
Regards Chris
Thanks Keith. Another great video. I’ve just found on the screen settings of my 8550 an option for “thick paper” I haven’t had the chance to print yet but do you think it might help with the random marks I sometimes get using Matt paper? Thank again
Yes, worth trying, but it's to avoid head strike marks, not ones from the paper feed mechanism IIRC
I believe it has a mention in the 8550 PDF manual?
Thanks again for your helping insights. I agree that prints are the only "real" photographs! Projected images are digital "art" (in some case we can remove the quotes/speech marks, but mostly no)! I currently have my screen at 35% and pull the shades in the room. There is some light leakage, especially on bright days (although the windows are on the north/non-sun side), but I generally get good results.
Re ink costs, I've not done a scientific study, but my Epson P900 rarely needs cleaning (especially if used at least every week or two), so that's not a significant cost. From what I've seen, the actual ink cost for even an A2 print (generally 16" x 20" on 17" x 22" paper) is something like US$2--a relative pittance. Obviously, the nature of the image matters a lot but it's cheap vs cheaper. I use only high-quality paper (mostly Epson-branded, but the usual suspects as well), and the most expensive sheets run under US$10 for an A2 sheet (and most people don't want prints that large). Add to that a decent frame, acid/lignin-free "archival" matting and backer board, plus wire for hanging, and the total cost for producing a framed print is a fraction of what you should reasonably expect to get from a gallery sale (even minus commission). If you really want to jack up your costs, farm out your printing and framing.
Thanks - Yes, in making these videos I've realised just how much people's attitude to real and perceived costs varies
I think that taking a photograph and not printing it is like cooking a meal and not eating it.
Yes :-) That makes my day to day job a chef ;-) Just as well I really like cooking too ;-)
Hi Keith, you brought up printers leaving marks on paper in this video. I just bought a pro-300 and I've noticed what I think are called 'pizza wheel marks' on prints but only under a very specific condition. That condition being that I have to shine a flashlight on it at roughly a 45 degree angle and look at the print from about a foot away. Under what I would call normal lighting and viewing conditions I see no marks, even when Im looking for them. Do you think this might be a problem? My main worry is that the marks might get worse over time and become more easily visible.
My usual answer is 'only if you have people looking at prints in that manner' ;-)
I've never come across it getting any worse, where it's been noticed.
@@KeithCooper Thanks, thats exactly the answer I was hoping for! Sidenote: next time I go look at prints in a gallery I'll be bringing my flashlight, lol
@@ChrisLaw-w8r That's the only way to do it, with a loupe in the other hand!
I don't know about printing borderless on any size paper. I think that may increase complexity in paper handling and "printer drivers". My suggestion would be to obtain a decent paper cutter. By the way, for borders, I used to place the borders in my picture. Is that cheating? I'm not a pro, so I can select low-tech solutions. Thanks for another good video. Happy 2025. I'm going to try focus stacking for tabletop pictures.
I don't do borderless very often - I'm just going by the fact it's a relatively popular topic I'm asked about...
Relating to printing software with upscaling etc; Do You have a video about the Qimage print SW?
Nope - I've never found it particularly attractive to my needs [that's the Mac version BTW - no win pcs here at all]
I’ve had a running battle with printers since the days of dot matrix in the 1980s and it continues to this day. 😅
Such as? [for current printers]
@ Actually the current printer is ok. It’s just a bog standard Canon that I use to print A5 photos for my great niece’s photo album.
I’d love to be able to load ICC profiles into the printer such that all users would then see the new paper option show up and they wouldn’t need to know ICC profiles even exist.
An interesting idea - one that, well implemented, could address several usability related colour management issues.
At the moment there is no OS facility [AFAIK Mac or Win?] for loading profiles from printers on the fly and making them available to applications needing to use them. That and profile checking is often only carried out when applications first start up.
I've gotten a little G550 for 100€ on sale a year or so back. I've printed 597 times as per the last nozzle check and the tanks (with the ink that came included in that 100€ purchase) haven't even reached half yet, some of the colours are almost there. Not counting the numerous papers I tried, I'd say 16cents a print is not bad on the ink side. And that's my cost right now, when I finally deplete it, it will be more like 6-8cents, rendering the printer purchase virtually free for all the learning I did. When I eventually go to a bigger printer, I'll be much more cost efficient of that, or just much more efficient in general - paper choice, editing for print, etc etc.
A useful printer - less so on Macs but as you note - pretty economical
@@KeithCooper I use it on a Mac with your profiles, and you're right, it becomes a little hit and hope sometimes, but nonetheless I wouldn't have been able to justify a more expensive printer at the time, and this has been amazing for me.
Excellent - glad to have helped!
Better ink usage reporting, please 🙏🙏🙏
Yes, ignoring total ink used is a little disingenuous I'm inclined to suggest.
I have found that Epson doesn't always make print drivers for Mac either anymore. My new Epson forces me to use AirPrint since Epson has not made a driver for it.
What new printer?
@@KeithCooperI recently picked up an Epson XP-15000. So, not a new printer but new to me.
v13.6 of the driver supports 15.2 AFAIK
Just make sure you have not installed the AirPort driver by mistake?
I have a recent 8550 video which specifically covers this
@@KeithCooper Thank you for pointing that out. I was hoping they had one for Apple Chips but the Intel one is now installed and operational. I will make sure that all of our computers in the house have this driver installed.
@@jeffolson4731 Yes, just watch for that airprint problem - the clue is that a whole lot of printer features vanish...
It seems to me, that the printer companies could use a non-ink solution, maybe vinegar as a starting idea for cleaning the heads on a printer. If something as my suggestion won't work than maybe the base medium of ink, without the coloration added should be available as a cleaner and at a much lower price because it would not need the critical standards that an ink, dyes, or pigment would need. Let's face it, the printer companies know how to clean the head without using ink, they just want us to burn through more ink. Their business theology is all wrong and for me, almost makes me hostile towards these brands. To me this is just plain abuse by the manufacturers and therefore they have become irrelevant to me. Just a 5% walk-away by customers will put these companies in a panic. Maybe we should. I know this is harsh towards these companies, but it used to be that the major brands would do their very best to offer good products at a fair price without putting some bits and pieces in the process that continually abuses their customers. In my younger years I would look for the features I want in a product. Now what I have to do is disqualify products until I find the one that is the least abusive for my needs. That means no brand loyalty. As a last complaint, I run Linux. Fix your d*** drivers! Great video!
Not really, I'm minded to suggest - once you have flushed out ink to use cleaner and then reloaded the ink afterwards, to flush out the cleaner, you end up with a massively more complex system which uses at least as much ink.
My suspicion is that no printer maker will ever likely meet your requirements.
I don’t buy a printer because all of them that I know of require their use fairly frequently. I can not print something, wait 6 months, and still have a printer that will work. It will be all clogged up with dried ink. I assume this is still the case.
Not always, but if someone expects that level of use, I'd not sell them a printer - asking for problems.
If I'm not printing regularly, I'll run a Nozzle Check every 3 days using plain paper (on a Pro-300). It uses every ink, but only a relatively small amount of each. I even remind myself by setting up a recurring event on my calendar! Printing irregularly is about the worst thing you can to in terms of ink usage.
When are you going to buy Karen her printer?
Ah, yes... was just waiting for the Christmas decorations to be put away for the year... ;-)
What about a user replaceable overspray sponge cartridge that can be removed when you print too much borderless: No need for a expensive service intervention and your printer gone for a few weeks ? Please no chip in those overspray sponge cartridges, if that would exist in the future, but I am afraid it will be chipped to make money from trash bins.
Yes, on the list...
I hope Karen is not in dire need of that printer 😀
I do offer a service taking prints from it up to her office...