What great surprise, I designed and built this engine in late 2012 then sold on ebay to a buyer in Norfolk. It has 7/16" bore and stroke, silicone seals and was originally fitted with a lubricator, not Microcosm. I still have the listing pics. Cheers.
Keith, when you use the solder braid, add some solder flux to the braid. You can get a pen or some paste and a small toothpick or wire to apply it. Then apply the braid and the solder will wick into the braid, carrying the solder. Solder sucker works first followed by the flux & braid.
Hi, I had a TVR1A engine and it is made by Graham Industries here in the USA, and they are really fine running engines. I did use it in a model r.c. steam boat I built, and it worked really well. Good choice!
Hi Keith, I have an old trick for you that I use quite a bit, been soldering for 22 years and you have to learn some tircks. So that you don't tear traces off the board, what you do is you solder all the pins together with a large bead of solder over all the connections. Once the large blob of solder carries the heat through all the connection points, the board lets go with ease. You can do this in a couple of minutes without threat of lifting the traces. Give it a shot next time.
hi Keith. fyi. if you put a small piece of silicon tube over the end of your solder sucker the tube will seal the job tighter and suck harder ..? like a - -- - - - - i knew... lolol tone uk
What great surprise, I designed and built this engine in late 2012 then sold on ebay to a buyer in Norfolk. It has 7/16" bore and stroke, silicone seals and was originally fitted with a lubricator, not Microcosm. I still have the listing pics. Cheers.
I congratulate you on your excellent engineering. The engine runs exceptionally well.
Keith, when you use the solder braid, add some solder flux to the braid. You can get a pen or some paste and a small toothpick or wire to apply it. Then apply the braid and the solder will wick into the braid, carrying the solder. Solder sucker works first followed by the flux & braid.
Hi, I had a TVR1A engine and it is made by Graham Industries here in the USA, and they are really fine running engines. I did use it in a model r.c. steam boat I built, and it worked really well. Good choice!
I stand corrected, thank you for letting me know. It's been a long while since I had one - I remember now }:-)))
Hi Keith, I have an old trick for you that I use quite a bit, been soldering for 22 years and you have to learn some tircks.
So that you don't tear traces off the board, what you do is you solder all the pins together with a large bead of solder over all the connections. Once the large blob of solder carries the heat through all the connection points, the board lets go with ease. You can do this in a couple of minutes without threat of lifting the traces. Give it a shot next time.
Thanks for the tip, I will try that the next time I try and unsolder a double sided circuit board }:-)))
Most impressive. You are a true Renaissance Man
Great video!
Excellent!
Thank you! }:-)))
Keith, A small clarification for your viewers who may not know. The TVR1A engine you mention is from Graham Industries in the USA, Not PM Research.
I stand corrected, thank you for letting me know.
hi Keith. fyi. if you put a small piece of silicon tube over the end of your solder sucker the tube will seal the job tighter and suck harder ..? like a - -- - - - - i knew... lolol tone uk
⭐🙂👍