For many decades by now , there is a product on a market for a perfect wall. It is Thermasteel panel. It will not mold , rot, burn, no vapor penetration with condensation, light weight , easy to assemble into a wall and it consists of cheap components to produce
Makes total sense. If condesation happens at for example 5 celsius, and you make your closed cell foam insulation outside the home, then the outsideof the foam is frozen and the interior is warm, but the 5 celicius is somewhere in the middle of the foam baord, thus eliminating the condenation processes all together.
@corykeeler2655 Yes, you get the point entirely. And the non-permissive insulation is the only system that can be installed on the interior (especially for ceilings), letting the structural element entirely outside (in one environment).
The only material that I know of that is used for insulation that is non-permissive or vapor impermeable is closed cell foam. Structural insulated panels offer a wall system that is air tight and vapor impermeable if installed properly. You could also build a stick built wall with 2 1/2" of foam on both the inside and outside surfaces with regular insulation in between. As long as the foam is contiguous and fully sealed the dew point would always fall within the foam in most climates.
Hey Joel, nice to have your comment. You get the point of avoiding condensation using non-permissive insulation but, the idea is to simplify things, and not to complicate... Two layers of closed cell foam with a permissive insulation in between is a non-sense complication. The base idea of full success is a thermal enclosure made out of a continuous non-permissive insulation with the role of environmental separation and, a structural element to form the building envelope. When those things are accomplished, all building envelope issues are solved. I know, everione worie is about thermal efficiency, but... do not compare non-permissive insulation which is 100% effective, with permissive insulation which have a regular randament of 20% from specified conduction coeficients of laboratory tests. Regarding materials and technology, see eios.co/
Loved the video and explantion, definitely will consider doing this as i need to change the roofing anyway. Another problem with ventilation is that during winter the "fresh" outside air is often polluted to the point of killing an air purifier filter in a month. (I also don't have a furnace, gas stoves or anything, besides few residents, that would require ventilation)
I've been looking for a condensation problem beneath the mattress in an RV. Through your video I think I've found it. I don't have much space, the bed is above the truck cab, but if I put a layer of enclosed foam (for example polystyrene) it should keep my mattress dry.
A layer of extruded polystyrene should solve condensation, but it needs to be sealed around and the joints sealed with polyurethane foam, so as air and vapor to not get behind insulation. See installation example from constructions: eios.co/system
is XPS foam thickness 10cm vapor impermeable? coupled with hollow bricks, should that kind of build be avoided, is that a bad thing, trapping vapor inside the home that i can't go out?
In principle yes, but as the saying goes - God is in the details. All -fenestrations -doors, window are difficult if not impossible to detail . Roof to wall issues. Siding, roofing etc fasteners become conduits for temperature, vapor issues. Not to mention poor installation issues. Manufactured insulated metal prefinished wall and roof panels can be a solution. This is not easily accomplished - but the principal is sound.
This theory arise from practice, and yes, the practice is detail oriented. See eios.co/eios-besides As you say is need, special details are made for intersection with other constructive elements as windows/doors, and connection between walls and roof. All assemble needs to be continuous vapor tight and thermal bridge free. Some screws are accepted for roof system attachment.
omg .. i've literally got some insanely uncomfortable inflamation problem in the last 2 years of wet winters and my dad DIED of an autoimmune condition of the lungs in this house .. i found a electricity sockets corroded to green behind a cupboard, the windows have condensation on the inside .. its chronicly humid but doesn't smell like it .. i cant believe people dont HAVE to make sure this doesnt happen.
Condensation, mold and degradation usually starts interstitial (inside of walls), not very visible but very aggressive for the health of the occupants and the building. I build moisture-free from more than 10 years, with same results in every project standing. Unfortunately, the authorities doesn't want to consider this as a fact, and make a change. Who knows when moisture-free will be a reality, for all.
My friend lives in Alaska and her two daughters have debilitating autoimmune disease.. I asked if she has mold and she said yes it is really common there and she had several walls rebuilt.
Isn't insulation needed to be much thicker to eliminate needs of vapour barrier? I believe eliminating VB is feasible somewhere it's always warm - similar to room temperature through a year, but regions where it's normal or colder winter climate, to eliminate VB it will require a lot thicker insulation to avoid dew point. Am I getting it right?
Interstitial (in-wall) condensation depends more on the vapor-permeability of walls and insulation (whish usually is very permeable), and on the temperature-difference between inside and outside, and not too much on the insulation thickness. The temperature difference creates vapor diffusion and dew point. There is no need of VB in the avoiding condensation concept which provides zero-condensation by stopping vapor passing through the insulation, and not retarding vapor passing through walls using vapor barriers. VB is the "appanage" of the moisture controll building science. Avoiding condensation stipulated in the Principle doesn't depend on climate or season!
This is how dug cellars and manmade caves essentially stay a constant temperature, no? The problem with natural caves is that they're usually created by water (not condensation), which leaks through right?
Were you trying to make a point while avoiding making the point? how much jargon are you going to throw into this while avoiding saying "prevent airflow from passing through the insulative layer"?
The principle is about stopping vapor diffusion through the thermal enclosure (insulation named non-permissive). This includes all other preventions as you want: airflow, waterproof, capillarity, absorption, etc. There are many points, see the gist...
Hello sir. Really hoping you can help. My problem occurs during the monsoon season only. The neighbour above keeps the air conditioner on 24/7 at chillest. This causes condensation & mould on ceiling of my room below where there is no AC. Only during 3 months of monsoon when humidity is high. . Ceiling is made of concrete & painted. Would be grateful for any suggestions. Am desperate
Dear @priya85746, there is a thermal bridge problem. You can solve this problem by non-permissive insulating the ceiling using 5 cm (two inchs) or more, embossed extruded polistirene XPS, sticked and sealed with poliurethane foam. See this system: eios.co/inside You have to find a solution to prepare the ceiling surface for adhesion and to fasten every board up to curing the poliurethane foam adhesive (also see this page eios.co/system). You can also build a metal frame with a layer of OSB to easily install the insulation system. This insulation will solve the condensation problem on the ceiling surface, and behind insulation, and will also save you a lot of heat energy that goes through the concrete slab to your neighbors above, in the cold season. Good luck with your project.
One important thing missing here is paint, paint creates a thin membrane so I suspect it plays an important role but never mentioned. So it would seem that an exterior vapor barrier and interior barrier should do the trick.
Avoiding condensation is possible only by creating a vapor-impermeable insulation enclosure, or in the new terms, "the non-permissive thermal enclosure". This have nothing to do with the vapor-barrier, renamed vapor-retardant barrier, in the form of foil, membranes or as you say, paints. If those barriers are involved in the envelope wall construction, will not influence vapor diffusion and condensation, such are kept in one environment (the inside warm environment). This explainer is only "the top of the iceberg" of the new science of Avoiding Condensation, and because of this, many confusions will be made with the science of Moisture-Control, which is based vapor barriers in the form of foils, membranes or paint.
@@mariusradoane1787 I understand, but breaking it down to the most basic principle the purpose is to prevent moisture making its way through the porous components of a wall. Anyway I think paint is an integral part of this system especially a latex based paint. Thanks for your input.
@@crazyking50 Using this principle, the envelope wall needs to be conceived as two elements: 1) the Structural Element and 2) the Environmental Separator. The structural element does not have to be airtight, moisture resistant or vapor retardant. Instead, the environmental separator, non-permissive thermal enclosure takes all functions of separating the two environments, as vapor-impermeable insulation (responsible for avoiding condensation), airtightness of the building, waterproofing and 100% effective insulation. If the environmental separator is placed on the exterior of the building (as should be), the structural element is all inside, protected by weather and there is no worry about vapor diffusion and condensation that builds moisture. But, if the environmental separator is placed internal (recommended only for ceilings), than the element 1) needs to be protected, especially for rain water. The vapor diffusion does not apply in any cases to the element 1) the Structural Element. This is the most benefit of the principle.
Closed Cell Polyurethane Foam, if is continuous applied, acts as a non-permissive insulation, so it is a vapor barrier. But, it needs to be continuous. Open cell polyurethane is not.
EPS is permeable to vapors, in the class III Semi-permeable. Usually is installed non-airtight, with drainage and/or ventilation behind. It partially work as insulation, without moisture issues for mineral, non-wetting-sensitive walls (brick walls). It can be a big problem for non-mineral (wood, metal), wetting-sensitive walls.
A nice explanation, but I was unable to find the proper non-permissive thermal enclosure material you talked about. Why haven't you given any names of such materials as a guide. I'm really breaking my head trying to figure out, which materials could fit under your definition.
The principle is the theory, for practice search EIOS Thermosystem. Materials to create non-permissive insulation is usually extruded polystyrene sealed with closed-cell polyurethane foam. See the assemble: eios.co/system
@@mariusradoane1787 That is so far from the truth. Do you really believe that in winter time hot air that difuses from the house will go right into the middle of the extrudated polistyrene and stay put from November to about March ? 😀 I understand that you are trying to sell your services, but do not mislead people. You either are extremly naive or just someone trying to sell something at any costs.
@@mihailfelixdumitresc The principle does not sell anithing! Vapor difuses through materials, not the air! Extruded polystyrene is considered vapor-impermeable over 5cm thickness. So, through non-permissive insulation passes only heat by conductivity, No air, No vapors! There are some things to know, to can understand a principle.
@@mariusradoane1787 Your extruded polistyrene will keep the moisture INSIDE the wall, with no chance whatsoever to escape it. What follows is mold grows which is bad for health. Water vapors "travel" with hot air and become water droplets once the hot air meets a cold surface. You cannot separate water vapors from hot air just by placing extruded polistyrene on its way because it does not act like a coffee filter. It is the moisture that is the problem in your "solution", don't you get it ? Moisture that remains within walls because your extruded polistyrene conducts heat outside the walls. Moisture acts like a facilitator for heat transfer.
I have a problem with moisture in my basement. The West and North walls of the basement are about 8 feet/2 meters below grade. These walls as well as the floors are constantly moist and anything that can mold will if in the basement long enough. Since it is below grade I cannot insulate from the outside. My house is stone and is over 100 years old. The walls are about 2 ft thick. Would it be possible to insulate from the inside? I have played with the idea of building a new inner (non structural but built with bricks) wall with closed cell foam insulation between the 2 walls. The outer wall effectively becomes part of the earth and would be constantly moist while remaining at earth temperature and the inner wall would be dry at inside temps and the foam would stop any moisture transfer. Can anyone give me their thoughts and /or advice on this. The South and East walls are above grade and do not have these issues.
You probably have water infiltration and capillarity issues, not a condensation problem. Make a waterproofing layer, preferably cementitious, on walls and floor. Than you can insulate non-permissive with XPS insulation on walls, apply cementitious plaster reinforced with mesh, or build a brick wall. Do not perforate with anything the waterproofing layer! I recommend to make the waterproofing, and wait some time to see the results. Good luck with your project.
I wanna build with straw bales. What if we make the outer layer non-permiable and leave the inside permiable. Even if water gathers inside the straw, would it not evaporate/diffuse back into the interior?
Straw is one of the most vapor-permeable insulation material. It will move the dew point area inside of it, and a lot of condensation will occur. Such organic material as straw is a good food for mold and fungi. In some years will be a mess. The hope of inward drying is only a source of indoor bad air quality. It is not in the area of this principle.
Very well informing and nicely presented. however i have a question. you didnt mention constructively what is this dew point. what is it made of ? what kind of material is it ? how is it installed in the middle of the insulation layer. etc thank you
Mario, Dew Point is the temperature on which vapor reverts to water, and condensation occurs, and depends on temperature and Relative Humidity. Usually, interstitial (in wall) condensation occurs because of vapor diffusion and air-transported vapor inside of wall, and the dew point generated by outside cold. The Principle states that vapors will not get to the dew point inside of insulation, so as condensation is avoided. Anyway, your comment is very funny, thanks!
could you please explain what happens to the humidity being created inside the house? What if we have a humidifier running in a bedroom? How does the humidity produced in the interior get out of the building? does it not condensate in the ceiling?
Thanks for your comment. Your concern is a big confusion of the whole construction field. I'll explain: vapor content in the air is an environmental specific, and is expressed by the Relative Humidity, which depends on environmental temperature. Most of the time, outside RH goes above 80%, but condensation occurs only in the clouds, where rain starts, or morning dew. Inside of buildings built according to this principle, RH is usually in the comfort range of 35 to 65% RH, but if there is an extra source of vapors, RH can go to 99% RH and condensation is still non an issue. The confusion is that, in excess vapors in the interior environment needs to be ventilated naturally by windows/doors or mechanically, and this is not the duty of envelope walls. Vapors gets in the walls because of the temperature difference, and this is also the cause of condensation (dew point inside the wall). The principle gives the option to separate two environments, with two different temperature and RH, without the condensation and moisture issues of the enclosure that separates those two environments. For your trust, no building made according to this principle reports any RH above comfort, no matter the inside activity.
Ventilation cancels the insulation value! It's a nonsense, but still used to solve moisture issues in moisture control rules and regulations. Avoiding condensation is a new vision, and allow to build Moisture-Free. You can find more technical details and the practical application of moisture-free construction on eios.co/moisture-free-concept
Are you saying that vapour barriers still allow some vapour to get through and your material is 100% vapour proof? Also, for it's insulation effect, what would be it's comparable R-value? It seems you are saying it is a 100% insulation from outside.
The insulation used is the XPS extruded polystyrene, which is considered vapor-impermeable for a thickness more than 2 inches (5 cm). Vapor barriers are now called vapor-retardant barriers and yes, do allow vapors to pass from the concept. The principle refers to an enclosure, so the insulation material needs to be assembled to create a vapor proof insulation for the whole building, or element of the building. See eios.co/system and eios.co/sky . This assembly is called Non-Permissive insulation, is moisture-free, and is also 100% Effective insulation, which means that it applies entirely the testing coefficients as conductivity [W/mK] or R-value. Other air-permeable insulations applies to the building just a small % of the specified testing conductivity. The decreasing of the real R-value of the air-permeable insulation assemblies is directly proportional with the temperature-difference, which means that, wen we need insulation the most, we have effective-insulation the less. See eios.co/thermal-efficiency
@@rehanalizaidi The frame can be as less airtight you want! The non-permissive insulation will make the building envelope 100% airtight (the area applied). This is another big advantage of the principle. Simplifies construction, uses less materials.
If you mean the ventilation of walls, that is the "privilege" of the Moisture Control building science. This principle is the base of the Avoiding Condensation building science, which means building without moisture, mold, ventilation of walls, drainage and all things related to cycles of wetting and drying. If you mean the building ventilation, this is made by windows, doors, mechanical ventilation systems, etc.
Incredible how unknown can be a new discovered principle... Technically, everything have sense! When we can have first houses built according to avoiding condensation principle?
net zero houses allready being built. but the required detail work adds alot to cost so unless request it most usa houses wont be built that way to expensive.
The exterior insulation foam panels you promote are still held in place by big wide strips of wood (such as on top of a roof deck), which means there is actually no continuous condensation seperation as you claim... wood attached to wood attached to drywall or roofing tiles does not insulate or stop moisture. Of course without the wood elements, you could not attach a roof on top of foam panels, since foam isn't a structural material. So you haven't actually created a system that matches your theory. To follow your theory you could live in a big styrofoam cooler, but the styrofoam would break easily which is why we don't make houses to be styrofoam boxes. Also lots of homes are made with a few inches of rigid foam insulation outside of the wood framing these days, especially in very cold climates... you haven't actually "invented" anything, much less a perfect enclosure with your "system".
If you mean eios.co/sky the wooden slats that supports the roof system are fixed through the non-permissive insulation by wood screws, to the structural element, which is internal placed. The insulation is continuous and thermal bridges are minimal, not affecting moisture content of frame, possible condensation being counted in grams/building. eios.co/system and eios.co/inside Are continuous, moisture-free, thermal-bridge-free environmental separator. Condensation on a regular size house, in a temperate climate, built with regular insulation and moisture control systems, is over one Ton annual, cumulated in building envelope. Now, chose what inventions you need for building.
So if I understand correctly, you are talking about having a continuous insulation that is a vapor barrier, so that moisture is unable to travel until the location of the dew point? But in that case, the vapor barrier needs to be both on the inside and outside, to handle winter/summer conditions, right?
ST, you get the point, but the terms create confusion! PAC makes use of the terms: continuous applied ’’Vapor Impermeable Insulation’’ and ’’Vapor Impermeable Insulation Assemblies’’ and not Vapor Barrier. To avoid confusion for practice, I named this insulation Non-Permissive. Indeed, when warm vapors don’t get inside of Insulation, where the presumptive dew point is, the condensation is entirely avoided. Instead, vapor barrier, in the form of foils, membranes, coatings, is permeable to vapors (actualized name is ’’vapor retardants’’), and is the prerogative of the moisture control building science. Unfortunately, PAC is not yet taken into consideration for practice. Regarding the both sides, inside and outside, the principle contains the word ’’Viceversa’’ which means that the thermal flow, which coincides with the vapor flow, can be change at any time (climate or season), without affecting the result of the principle (avoiding condensation) but here is another warning of novelty: the envelope wall is conceived as two elements: 1) the Structural Element and 2) the Environmental Separator which creates the thermal-envelope. Mixing the two elements will always cause problems! The Structural Element doesn’t have to be airtight, moisture resistant and thermal isolative, while the Environmental Separator takes all functions of Avoiding Condensation (not controlling moisture), Air-tightness of the building, Waterproofing and Insulation. Now, the Environmental Separator element (the Non-Permissive Insulation) can be applied internal or external to the Structural Element, without affecting the Principle (avoiding condensation is accomplished), and this because is contained in one environment (internal conditioned or external extreme weather) and the action of vapor and difference of temperature will take place inside of the Vapor-Impermeable, non-permissive Insulation. Of course, if the Structural Element is in the exterior environment (non-permissive insulation applied internal), it needs to be protected by exterior weather. This is why, internal application of non-permissive insulation is recommended on mansards and ceilings at the last floor (the Structural element is protected by the roof system). For practice, you can find more on eios.co/moisture-free-concept or ask here.
So it seems to me like basically you're talking about a perfect insulating material. What you describe is essentially the Tyvek layer of a building envelope. The problem is there is no such thing as a perfect insulation. So no matter what there's going to be some heat transfer One Direction or the other. Not only that but you're missing the point of windows which is the biggest place where condensate happens and really the only place I've ever seen it actually turn into any sort of puddle or problem. I've been in a muggy attic or two but I've never seen one that actually accumulated water only window sills. no walls no basements, nothing else I've seen will develop actual puddles. I've seen some brick in basements get damp but never cause standing water from vapor. If you were to Vapor coat your insulation bats the only thing that you would possibly do is prevent the air transfer before the wooden sheathing instead of after. Even then I've really only seen this in places where they have been building airtight for a long time that have major temperature fluctuations like Alaska I've never really seen mold caused by air Vapor transmission only by other sources like leaky pipes or groundwater seepage or bad drainage or bathrooms that don't have proper ventilation I suppose that could technically be thought of as a vapor problem now the problem with build airtight building envelopes or what you're talking about with airtight insulation is that eventually one way or the other you're going to get temperature fluctuations that do cause some kind of vapor transmission within the home now when you have airtight building envelope that Vapor never leaves so it can't go anywhere and it's just accumulates so you get more problems with building airtight than you do without you want to be able to let that vapor go rather than accumulate it like a collection
The principle eliminates from construction the vapor barrier in the form of foils, coats or membranes (such Tyvek). EIOS Thermosystem (eios.co/) is the insulation that makes the building moisture free. The material used is extruded polystyrene and closed cell polyurethane foam eios.co/system . When I made this principle in 2010, I knew that will be a confusion between vapor-barrier and vapor-impermeable insulation. That's why I made new terms to define this new kind of insulation, which is a new way to build: Moisture Free. Condensation water from diffusion is about one pound/square foot or 3-6 kg/square meter in a cold season in regular climates, going up in extreme climates. The Non-Permissive thermal envelope is proved moisture-free from more than 10 years so far. The principle applies mostly for Non-Mineral, Moisture Sensitive construction such as wood or metal structured walls. Intersection with other constructive elements as windows and doors is taken very serious in the new concept, see eios.co/eios-besides
In this age of modern materials, I refuse to believe that an affordable and effective method to avoid condensation is not within reach. I suspect that any architect and builder worth calling would be able to deliver a better quality building....We just have to be smart enough to demand it! My question is what is the recommended material/brand name, and what is the cost for a 1500 square foot ranch style home?
Dear Leo, the Zero Moisture, Mold and Degradation house is a concept yet of 10 years, applied and proved in practice from 2013. The method is affordable, the building price end up lower for high thermal efficiency, and is 100% effective. The problem is, architects and builders don’t have yet in the vocabulary words like avoiding condensation and non-permissive insulation, and this because all building codes are made up by following the moisture control building science. Controlling moisture means an important quantity of condensation (and intruding) water, which needs to be managed into the envelope walls. The option of this principle is zero condensation, mold and degradation. Unfortunately, this principle is not yet taken into consideration by the prior art of construction. Regarding application, EIOS Thermosystem ( eios.co/ ) is the first, and the only one brand dedicated to Zero Moisture and high thermal efficiency building. You can also find interesting information on RUclips: ruclips.net/video/GJeS6FLPj04/видео.html ruclips.net/video/WH_Oqpus9uY/видео.html ruclips.net/video/WYI-xe09PLc/видео.html I am happy to guide you if you choose the Zero Moisture method.
@@ericmass11 No, limiting condensation means to accept condensation in a limited amount. Moisture Free means to build without any condensation, also without intruding water. Moisture in the building envelope is zero! As well, the Non-Permissive insulation is 100% Effective, the building envelope is 100% airtight, which are also major advantages.
@@mariusradoane1787 The real problem is enclosed systems rely too heavily on proper installation techniques. Any kind of moisture that penetrates through holes gets trapped and rots from the inside out. The systems in theory work but leaves no room for mistakes on the exterior of the envelope and also relies heavily on home owners to swap filters in order to maintain good air quality. Furthermore, what is the degredation rate (life span) of the products used. As the vapor barrier/moisture barrier breaks down then what? House no longer performs as it did when constructed and rots out. The science should be redirected to solid masonry walls and forget wood all together. If people are going to create an airtight space, then they should at a minimum use lightgauge steel framing.
@@danbiss87 Sorry not being all with you in this, but I appreciate your comment. Vapor and moisture gets in envelope walls mostly because of water and vapor permeability of materials used. Insulation is usually the most air/vapor permeable material used in construction, without considering the less airtight installing. The cladding is responsible by rain water getting in walls through holes, if you refer to that. The Principle is all about using vapor-impermeable insulation materials, continuous installed and sealed to create an enclosure, the insulation itself, not in combination with the frame. And Yes, mineral walls functions on a different principle, by accumulating moisture on a cold season (they are a good water reservoir), and releasing water on the warm season. But anyway, think about roofs, living attic, ceiling at the last floor, not everything can be made out of brick. And trust me, construction made according to this Principle, is made to last.
As in our times in construction, Romans used the communicating vessels as pipes, without knowing the principle (they built aqueducts). Elements of present construction as window-panels and sandwich-panels follows the Principle of Avoiding Condensation, without taking this principle into consideration. So, ports of constructions are moisture-free, but not the whole building, as the principle states.
Yes but... Contractors and designers don't follow this principle because is not yet acknowledged in the state of the art. When will be, moisture-free construction needs to be a must. Who knows when...
Hei, is there anyone who knows how to make this possible in a vehicle with Aluminium walls? There is a lot of "half-truth" out there in the net. It would be fantastic to get some knowledge from professionals.
It is possible, in the construction stage of the car, with the intention of the designers. The insulation materials should be closed cell polyurethane foam, mono or be-component, sprayed on the interior surface of the metal sheet, with the condition not to exfoliate. This will solve the condensation issues, and will insulate for sun heat and outside cold. For an existing car, I don’t know…
Who is your audience? I can tell you it's not me. Despite an excellent vocabulary and a bent towards the scientific I found your video to be frustratingly over-loaded with language not useful for translating your concept into action. Exactly what type of product actually accomplishes what you recommend? What comes close? What doesn't? Your video was not a good investment of my time, even if the information presented is vital and accurate. You should consider a rewrite that translates into more useful parlance.
Indeed, this is not an insulation product. Is the very base of a new building science named Avoiding Condensation, which intends to replace the current Moisture Control science of managing damp in building envelope walls. The first and only product based on this principle is eios.co/ On RUclipss like this ruclips.net/video/WYI-xe09PLc/видео.html
Min. 5,31: "......eliminating Dew point entirely"..... Really ? How can you ELIMINATE an interaction ? I am very curious to find out how you block a changeover to happen, or how you can make conversions vanish.....you either found another law of thermodynamics, in which case you should be proposed to the Nobel prize in physics in case you bother to come up with some hard evidence to back up your allegations, or you simply mistake some very basic pressure/temperature/volume ratios for whishful thinking......
Dear Mihail, the dewpoint of the interior space, considered warmer than the exterior environment, or vice versa, theoretically exists, and is a variable temperature, depending on various factors, in principal Relative Humidity and temperature. The idea of the principle is that, this dewpoint is situated always inside of a vapor-impermeable insulation. The dewpoint temperature of the inside warm vapors can be anywhere inside of this non-permissive insulation, detached from the inner surface (which needs to be warmed up by the interior heat). The non-permissive insulation needs to resist only to the theoretical differential vapor-pressure between inside warm vapors and external cold vapors. Usually, this vapor-pressure is not quite a significalt action, such warm vapors does not get in contact with cold vapors or cold areas inside of this insulation. A simple idea that functions perfectly, and saves construction from tons of condensation water/building annually. The only problem is: this humanity needs to understand that is very easy to implement this principle in practice, with the only need to change its mentality, from moisture-control to avoiding-condensation. All physics laws will remain in place, as before Archimedes and everybody else.
Windows are made out of double glazing and frame. The double glazing is a non-permissive insulation, and does not have condensation and moisture problems. The window frame is similar. Now the intersection of window frame and the non-permissive insulation needs to be also non-permissive conceived, and there are solutions.
The good thing is, the structural element can be as breathable and natural you want. The bad thing is that breathable, natural insulation let vapors to pass, and many times lets to pass direct heat by convection (less airtightness) or absorbed water. This means a lot of water. Bio materials will be eated by organisms growed by moisture. The principle allows to build the structure with natural materials, protected moisture-free by a synthetical thermal envelope.
For many decades by now , there is a product on a market for a perfect wall. It is Thermasteel panel. It will not mold , rot, burn, no vapor penetration with condensation, light weight , easy to assemble into a wall and it consists of cheap components to produce
never heard of it.
Makes total sense. If condesation happens at for example 5 celsius, and you make your closed cell foam insulation outside the home, then the outsideof the foam is frozen and the interior is warm, but the 5 celicius is somewhere in the middle of the foam baord, thus eliminating the condenation processes all together.
@corykeeler2655 Yes, you get the point entirely. And the non-permissive insulation is the only system that can be installed on the interior (especially for ceilings), letting the structural element entirely outside (in one environment).
The only material that I know of that is used for insulation that is non-permissive or vapor impermeable is closed cell foam. Structural insulated panels offer a wall system that is air tight and vapor impermeable if installed properly. You could also build a stick built wall with 2 1/2" of foam on both the inside and outside surfaces with regular insulation in between. As long as the foam is contiguous and fully sealed the dew point would always fall within the foam in most climates.
Hey Joel, nice to have your comment. You get the point of avoiding condensation using non-permissive insulation but, the idea is to simplify things, and not to complicate... Two layers of closed cell foam with a permissive insulation in between is a non-sense complication. The base idea of full success is a thermal enclosure made out of a continuous non-permissive insulation with the role of environmental separation and, a structural element to form the building envelope. When those things are accomplished, all building envelope issues are solved. I know, everione worie is about thermal efficiency, but... do not compare non-permissive insulation which is 100% effective, with permissive insulation which have a regular randament of 20% from specified conduction coeficients of laboratory tests. Regarding materials and technology, see eios.co/
Loved the video and explantion, definitely will consider doing this as i need to change the roofing anyway.
Another problem with ventilation is that during winter the "fresh" outside air is often polluted to the point of killing an air purifier filter in a month. (I also don't have a furnace, gas stoves or anything, besides few residents, that would require ventilation)
I've been looking for a condensation problem beneath the mattress in an RV. Through your video I think I've found it. I don't have much space, the bed is above the truck cab, but if I put a layer of enclosed foam (for example polystyrene) it should keep my mattress dry.
A layer of extruded polystyrene should solve condensation, but it needs to be sealed around and the joints sealed with polyurethane foam, so as air and vapor to not get behind insulation. See installation example from constructions: eios.co/system
Great explanation, will definitely use this on
my house.
Good decision! For practical application of the Moisture-Free concept, visit eios.co/
DOW Chemical should produce this system and get it into the main stream of construction. Brilliant.
They are too focused on Moisture Control.
is XPS foam thickness 10cm vapor impermeable? coupled with hollow bricks, should that kind of build be avoided, is that a bad thing, trapping vapor inside the home that i can't go out?
Great presentation. Thank you for your time and effort to make this video and share your knowledge with us. Greetings from Croatia
Thanks Croatia!
In principle yes, but as the saying goes - God is in the details.
All -fenestrations -doors, window are difficult if not impossible to detail . Roof to wall issues. Siding, roofing etc fasteners become conduits for temperature, vapor issues. Not to mention poor installation issues.
Manufactured insulated metal prefinished wall and roof panels can be a solution.
This is not easily accomplished - but the principal is sound.
This theory arise from practice, and yes, the practice is detail oriented. See eios.co/eios-besides As you say is need, special details are made for intersection with other constructive elements as windows/doors, and connection between walls and roof. All assemble needs to be continuous vapor tight and thermal bridge free. Some screws are accepted for roof system attachment.
omg .. i've literally got some insanely uncomfortable inflamation problem in the last 2 years of wet winters and my dad DIED of an autoimmune condition of the lungs in this house .. i found a electricity sockets corroded to green behind a cupboard, the windows have condensation on the inside .. its chronicly humid but doesn't smell like it .. i cant believe people dont HAVE to make sure this doesnt happen.
Condensation, mold and degradation usually starts interstitial (inside of walls), not very visible but very aggressive for the health of the occupants and the building. I build moisture-free from more than 10 years, with same results in every project standing. Unfortunately, the authorities doesn't want to consider this as a fact, and make a change. Who knows when moisture-free will be a reality, for all.
My friend lives in Alaska and her two daughters have debilitating autoimmune disease.. I asked if she has mold and she said yes it is really common there and she had several walls rebuilt.
Isn't insulation needed to be much thicker to eliminate needs of vapour barrier? I believe eliminating VB is feasible somewhere it's always warm - similar to room temperature through a year, but regions where it's normal or colder winter climate, to eliminate VB it will require a lot thicker insulation to avoid dew point. Am I getting it right?
Interstitial (in-wall) condensation depends more on the vapor-permeability of walls and insulation (whish usually is very permeable), and on the temperature-difference between inside and outside, and not too much on the insulation thickness. The temperature difference creates vapor diffusion and dew point. There is no need of VB in the avoiding condensation concept which provides zero-condensation by stopping vapor passing through the insulation, and not retarding vapor passing through walls using vapor barriers. VB is the "appanage" of the moisture controll building science. Avoiding condensation stipulated in the Principle doesn't depend on climate or season!
This is how dug cellars and manmade caves essentially stay a constant temperature, no? The problem with natural caves is that they're usually created by water (not condensation), which leaks through right?
Were you trying to make a point while avoiding making the point? how much jargon are you going to throw into this while avoiding saying "prevent airflow from passing through the insulative layer"?
The principle is about stopping vapor diffusion through the thermal enclosure (insulation named non-permissive). This includes all other preventions as you want: airflow, waterproof, capillarity, absorption, etc. There are many points, see the gist...
Hello sir. Really hoping you can help. My problem occurs during the monsoon season only. The neighbour above keeps the air conditioner on 24/7 at chillest. This causes condensation & mould on ceiling of my room below where there is no AC. Only during 3 months of monsoon when humidity is high. . Ceiling is made of concrete & painted. Would be grateful for any suggestions. Am desperate
Dear @priya85746, there is a thermal bridge problem. You can solve this problem by non-permissive insulating the ceiling using 5 cm (two inchs) or more, embossed extruded polistirene XPS, sticked and sealed with poliurethane foam. See this system: eios.co/inside You have to find a solution to prepare the ceiling surface for adhesion and to fasten every board up to curing the poliurethane foam adhesive (also see this page eios.co/system). You can also build a metal frame with a layer of OSB to easily install the insulation system. This insulation will solve the condensation problem on the ceiling surface, and behind insulation, and will also save you a lot of heat energy that goes through the concrete slab to your neighbors above, in the cold season. Good luck with your project.
One important thing missing here is paint, paint creates a thin membrane so I suspect it plays an important role but never mentioned. So it would seem that an exterior vapor barrier and interior barrier should do the trick.
Avoiding condensation is possible only by creating a vapor-impermeable insulation enclosure, or in the new terms, "the non-permissive thermal enclosure". This have nothing to do with the vapor-barrier, renamed vapor-retardant barrier, in the form of foil, membranes or as you say, paints. If those barriers are involved in the envelope wall construction, will not influence vapor diffusion and condensation, such are kept in one environment (the inside warm environment).
This explainer is only "the top of the iceberg" of the new science of Avoiding Condensation, and because of this, many confusions will be made with the science of Moisture-Control, which is based vapor barriers in the form of foils, membranes or paint.
@@mariusradoane1787 I understand, but breaking it down to the most basic principle the purpose is to prevent moisture making its way through the porous components of a wall. Anyway I think paint is an integral part of this system especially a latex based paint. Thanks for your input.
@@crazyking50 Using this principle, the envelope wall needs to be conceived as two elements: 1) the Structural Element and 2) the Environmental Separator. The structural element does not have to be airtight, moisture resistant or vapor retardant. Instead, the environmental separator, non-permissive thermal enclosure takes all functions of separating the two environments, as vapor-impermeable insulation (responsible for avoiding condensation), airtightness of the building, waterproofing and 100% effective insulation. If the environmental separator is placed on the exterior of the building (as should be), the structural element is all inside, protected by weather and there is no worry about vapor diffusion and condensation that builds moisture. But, if the environmental separator is placed internal (recommended only for ceilings), than the element 1) needs to be protected, especially for rain water. The vapor diffusion does not apply in any cases to the element 1) the Structural Element. This is the most benefit of the principle.
do you know if polyurethane foam acts as a vapor barrier?
Closed Cell Polyurethane Foam, if is continuous applied, acts as a non-permissive insulation, so it is a vapor barrier. But, it needs to be continuous. Open cell polyurethane is not.
@@mariusradoane1787hello, thanks for answering
How is this different from standard practice of using 5 or 10 cm of EPS here in Europe?
EPS is permeable to vapors, in the class III Semi-permeable. Usually is installed non-airtight, with drainage and/or ventilation behind. It partially work as insulation, without moisture issues for mineral, non-wetting-sensitive walls (brick walls). It can be a big problem for non-mineral (wood, metal), wetting-sensitive walls.
A nice explanation, but I was unable to find the proper non-permissive thermal enclosure material you talked about.
Why haven't you given any names of such materials as a guide.
I'm really breaking my head trying to figure out, which materials could fit under your definition.
The principle is the theory, for practice search EIOS Thermosystem.
Materials to create non-permissive insulation is usually extruded polystyrene sealed with closed-cell polyurethane foam. See the assemble: eios.co/system
@@mariusradoane1787 That is so far from the truth. Do you really believe that in winter time hot air that difuses from the house will go right into the middle of the extrudated polistyrene and stay put from November to about March ? 😀 I understand that you are trying to sell your services, but do not mislead people. You either are extremly naive or just someone trying to sell something at any costs.
@@mihailfelixdumitresc The principle does not sell anithing! Vapor difuses through materials, not the air! Extruded polystyrene is considered vapor-impermeable over 5cm thickness. So, through non-permissive insulation passes only heat by conductivity, No air, No vapors! There are some things to know, to can understand a principle.
@@mariusradoane1787 Your extruded polistyrene will keep the moisture INSIDE the wall, with no chance whatsoever to escape it. What follows is mold grows which is bad for health. Water vapors "travel" with hot air and become water droplets once the hot air meets a cold surface. You cannot separate water vapors from hot air just by placing extruded polistyrene on its way because it does not act like a coffee filter. It is the moisture that is the problem in your "solution", don't you get it ? Moisture that remains within walls because your extruded polistyrene conducts heat outside the walls. Moisture acts like a facilitator for heat transfer.
I have a problem with moisture in my basement. The West and North walls of the basement are about 8 feet/2 meters below grade. These walls as well as the floors are constantly moist and anything that can mold will if in the basement long enough. Since it is below grade I cannot insulate from the outside. My house is stone and is over 100 years old. The walls are about 2 ft thick.
Would it be possible to insulate from the inside?
I have played with the idea of building a new inner (non structural but built with bricks) wall with closed cell foam insulation between the 2 walls. The outer wall effectively becomes part of the earth and would be constantly moist while remaining at earth temperature and the inner wall would be dry at inside temps and the foam would stop any moisture transfer.
Can anyone give me their thoughts and /or advice on this. The South and East walls are above grade and do not have these issues.
You probably have water infiltration and capillarity issues, not a condensation problem. Make a waterproofing layer, preferably cementitious, on walls and floor. Than you can insulate non-permissive with XPS insulation on walls, apply cementitious plaster reinforced with mesh, or build a brick wall. Do not perforate with anything the waterproofing layer! I recommend to make the waterproofing, and wait some time to see the results. Good luck with your project.
1:37 the topic begins..
A lot of filler.
I wanna build with straw bales.
What if we make the outer layer non-permiable and leave the inside permiable. Even if water gathers inside the straw, would it not evaporate/diffuse back into the interior?
Straw is one of the most vapor-permeable insulation material. It will move the dew point area inside of it, and a lot of condensation will occur. Such organic material as straw is a good food for mold and fungi. In some years will be a mess. The hope of inward drying is only a source of indoor bad air quality.
It is not in the area of this principle.
Very well informing and nicely presented. however i have a question. you didnt mention constructively what is this dew point. what is it made of ? what kind of material is it ? how is it installed in the middle of the insulation layer. etc thank you
Mario, Dew Point is the temperature on which vapor reverts to water, and condensation occurs, and depends on temperature and Relative Humidity. Usually, interstitial (in wall) condensation occurs because of vapor diffusion and air-transported vapor inside of wall, and the dew point generated by outside cold. The Principle states that vapors will not get to the dew point inside of insulation, so as condensation is avoided. Anyway, your comment is very funny, thanks!
Clear, thank you so much
could you please explain what happens to the humidity being created inside the house? What if we have a humidifier running in a bedroom? How does the humidity produced in the interior get out of the building? does it not condensate in the ceiling?
Thanks for your comment. Your concern is a big confusion of the whole construction field. I'll explain: vapor content in the air is an environmental specific, and is expressed by the Relative Humidity, which depends on environmental temperature. Most of the time, outside RH goes above 80%, but condensation occurs only in the clouds, where rain starts, or morning dew. Inside of buildings built according to this principle, RH is usually in the comfort range of 35 to 65% RH, but if there is an extra source of vapors, RH can go to 99% RH and condensation is still non an issue. The confusion is that, in excess vapors in the interior environment needs to be ventilated naturally by windows/doors or mechanically, and this is not the duty of envelope walls. Vapors gets in the walls because of the temperature difference, and this is also the cause of condensation (dew point inside the wall). The principle gives the option to separate two environments, with two different temperature and RH, without the condensation and moisture issues of the enclosure that separates those two environments. For your trust, no building made according to this principle reports any RH above comfort, no matter the inside activity.
@@mariusradoane1787 thank you very very much for this explanation!!!
That is very convincing. What materials allow such a setup? For now best solution proposed is ventilation inside to dispose of excess moisture
Ventilation cancels the insulation value! It's a nonsense, but still used to solve moisture issues in moisture control rules and regulations. Avoiding condensation is a new vision, and allow to build Moisture-Free. You can find more technical details and the practical application of moisture-free construction on eios.co/moisture-free-concept
A HRV system is supposed to solve the ventilation while retaining heat.
Fantastic!!!
Are you saying that vapour barriers still allow some vapour to get through and your material is 100% vapour proof? Also, for it's insulation effect, what would be it's comparable R-value? It seems you are saying it is a 100% insulation from outside.
The insulation used is the XPS extruded polystyrene, which is considered vapor-impermeable for a thickness more than 2 inches (5 cm). Vapor barriers are now called vapor-retardant barriers and yes, do allow vapors to pass from the concept. The principle refers to an enclosure, so the insulation material needs to be assembled to create a vapor proof insulation for the whole building, or element of the building. See eios.co/system and eios.co/sky . This assembly is called Non-Permissive insulation, is moisture-free, and is also 100% Effective insulation, which means that it applies entirely the testing coefficients as conductivity [W/mK] or R-value. Other air-permeable insulations applies to the building just a small % of the specified testing conductivity. The decreasing of the real R-value of the air-permeable insulation assemblies is directly proportional with the temperature-difference, which means that, wen we need insulation the most, we have effective-insulation the less. See eios.co/thermal-efficiency
@@mariusradoane1787 So this seems like it makes the enclosed area airtight, correct?
@@rehanalizaidi The frame can be as less airtight you want! The non-permissive insulation will make the building envelope 100% airtight (the area applied). This is another big advantage of the principle. Simplifies construction, uses less materials.
@@mariusradoane1787 thanks. Where is this available in Ontario, Canada. Further, doesn't closed cell spray foam do about the same thing?
No mention of ventilation? 🤔
If you mean the ventilation of walls, that is the "privilege" of the Moisture Control building science. This principle is the base of the Avoiding Condensation building science, which means building without moisture, mold, ventilation of walls, drainage and all things related to cycles of wetting and drying. If you mean the building ventilation, this is made by windows, doors, mechanical ventilation systems, etc.
Incredible how unknown can be a new discovered principle... Technically, everything have sense! When we can have first houses built according to avoiding condensation principle?
net zero houses allready being built. but the required detail work adds alot to cost so unless request it most usa houses wont be built that way to expensive.
The exterior insulation foam panels you promote are still held in place by big wide strips of wood (such as on top of a roof deck), which means there is actually no continuous condensation seperation as you claim... wood attached to wood attached to drywall or roofing tiles does not insulate or stop moisture. Of course without the wood elements, you could not attach a roof on top of foam panels, since foam isn't a structural material. So you haven't actually created a system that matches your theory. To follow your theory you could live in a big styrofoam cooler, but the styrofoam would break easily which is why we don't make houses to be styrofoam boxes. Also lots of homes are made with a few inches of rigid foam insulation outside of the wood framing these days, especially in very cold climates... you haven't actually "invented" anything, much less a perfect enclosure with your "system".
If you mean eios.co/sky the wooden slats that supports the roof system are fixed through the non-permissive insulation by wood screws, to the structural element, which is internal placed. The insulation is continuous and thermal bridges are minimal, not affecting moisture content of frame, possible condensation being counted in grams/building. eios.co/system and eios.co/inside Are continuous, moisture-free, thermal-bridge-free environmental separator. Condensation on a regular size house, in a temperate climate, built with regular insulation and moisture control systems, is over one Ton annual, cumulated in building envelope. Now, chose what inventions you need for building.
So if I understand correctly, you are talking about having a continuous insulation that is a vapor barrier, so that moisture is unable to travel until the location of the dew point? But in that case, the vapor barrier needs to be both on the inside and outside, to handle winter/summer conditions, right?
ST, you get the point, but the terms create confusion! PAC makes use of the terms: continuous applied ’’Vapor Impermeable Insulation’’ and ’’Vapor Impermeable Insulation Assemblies’’ and not Vapor Barrier. To avoid confusion for practice, I named this insulation Non-Permissive. Indeed, when warm vapors don’t get inside of Insulation, where the presumptive dew point is, the condensation is entirely avoided. Instead, vapor barrier, in the form of foils, membranes, coatings, is permeable to vapors (actualized name is ’’vapor retardants’’), and is the prerogative of the moisture control building science. Unfortunately, PAC is not yet taken into consideration for practice.
Regarding the both sides, inside and outside, the principle contains the word ’’Viceversa’’ which means that the thermal flow, which coincides with the vapor flow, can be change at any time (climate or season), without affecting the result of the principle (avoiding condensation) but here is another warning of novelty: the envelope wall is conceived as two elements: 1) the Structural Element and 2) the Environmental Separator which creates the thermal-envelope. Mixing the two elements will always cause problems! The Structural Element doesn’t have to be airtight, moisture resistant and thermal isolative, while the Environmental Separator takes all functions of Avoiding Condensation (not controlling moisture), Air-tightness of the building, Waterproofing and Insulation. Now, the Environmental Separator element (the Non-Permissive Insulation) can be applied internal or external to the Structural Element, without affecting the Principle (avoiding condensation is accomplished), and this because is contained in one environment (internal conditioned or external extreme weather) and the action of vapor and difference of temperature will take place inside of the Vapor-Impermeable, non-permissive Insulation. Of course, if the Structural Element is in the exterior environment (non-permissive insulation applied internal), it needs to be protected by exterior weather. This is why, internal application of non-permissive insulation is recommended on mansards and ceilings at the last floor (the Structural element is protected by the roof system). For practice, you can find more on eios.co/moisture-free-concept or ask here.
So it seems to me like basically you're talking about a perfect insulating material. What you describe is essentially the Tyvek layer of a building envelope. The problem is there is no such thing as a perfect insulation. So no matter what there's going to be some heat transfer One Direction or the other. Not only that but you're missing the point of windows which is the biggest place where condensate happens and really the only place I've ever seen it actually turn into any sort of puddle or problem. I've been in a muggy attic or two but I've never seen one that actually accumulated water only window sills. no walls no basements, nothing else I've seen will develop actual puddles. I've seen some brick in basements get damp but never cause standing water from vapor. If you were to Vapor coat your insulation bats the only thing that you would possibly do is prevent the air transfer before the wooden sheathing instead of after. Even then I've really only seen this in places where they have been building airtight for a long time that have major temperature fluctuations like Alaska I've never really seen mold caused by air Vapor transmission only by other sources like leaky pipes or groundwater seepage or bad drainage or bathrooms that don't have proper ventilation I suppose that could technically be thought of as a vapor problem now the problem with build airtight building envelopes or what you're talking about with airtight insulation is that eventually one way or the other you're going to get temperature fluctuations that do cause some kind of vapor transmission within the home now when you have airtight building envelope that Vapor never leaves so it can't go anywhere and it's just accumulates so you get more problems with building airtight than you do without you want to be able to let that vapor go rather than accumulate it like a collection
The principle eliminates from construction the vapor barrier in the form of foils, coats or membranes (such Tyvek). EIOS Thermosystem (eios.co/) is the insulation that makes the building moisture free. The material used is extruded polystyrene and closed cell polyurethane foam eios.co/system . When I made this principle in 2010, I knew that will be a confusion between vapor-barrier and vapor-impermeable insulation. That's why I made new terms to define this new kind of insulation, which is a new way to build: Moisture Free. Condensation water from diffusion is about one pound/square foot or 3-6 kg/square meter in a cold season in regular climates, going up in extreme climates. The Non-Permissive thermal envelope is proved moisture-free from more than 10 years so far. The principle applies mostly for Non-Mineral, Moisture Sensitive construction such as wood or metal structured walls. Intersection with other constructive elements as windows and doors is taken very serious in the new concept, see eios.co/eios-besides
In this age of modern materials, I refuse to believe that an affordable and effective method to avoid condensation is not within reach. I suspect that any architect and builder worth calling would be able to deliver a better quality building....We just have to be smart enough to demand it!
My question is what is the recommended material/brand name, and what is the cost for a 1500 square foot ranch style home?
Dear Leo, the Zero Moisture, Mold and Degradation house is a concept yet of 10 years, applied and proved in practice from 2013. The method is affordable, the building price end up lower for high thermal efficiency, and is 100% effective.
The problem is, architects and builders don’t have yet in the vocabulary words like avoiding condensation and non-permissive insulation, and this because all building codes are made up by following the moisture control building science. Controlling moisture means an important quantity of condensation (and intruding) water, which needs to be managed into the envelope walls. The option of this principle is zero condensation, mold and degradation. Unfortunately, this principle is not yet taken into consideration by the prior art of construction.
Regarding application, EIOS Thermosystem ( eios.co/ ) is the first, and the only one brand dedicated to Zero Moisture and high thermal efficiency building.
You can also find interesting information on RUclips:
ruclips.net/video/GJeS6FLPj04/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/WH_Oqpus9uY/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/WYI-xe09PLc/видео.html
I am happy to guide you if you choose the Zero Moisture method.
@@mariusradoane1787 Zero Moisture the same as limiting condensation?
@@ericmass11 No, limiting condensation means to accept condensation in a limited amount. Moisture Free means to build without any condensation, also without intruding water. Moisture in the building envelope is zero! As well, the Non-Permissive insulation is 100% Effective, the building envelope is 100% airtight, which are also major advantages.
@@mariusradoane1787 The real problem is enclosed systems rely too heavily on proper installation techniques. Any kind of moisture that penetrates through holes gets trapped and rots from the inside out. The systems in theory work but leaves no room for mistakes on the exterior of the envelope and also relies heavily on home owners to swap filters in order to maintain good air quality. Furthermore, what is the degredation rate (life span) of the products used. As the vapor barrier/moisture barrier breaks down then what? House no longer performs as it did when constructed and rots out. The science should be redirected to solid masonry walls and forget wood all together. If people are going to create an airtight space, then they should at a minimum use lightgauge steel framing.
@@danbiss87 Sorry not being all with you in this, but I appreciate your comment. Vapor and moisture gets in envelope walls mostly because of water and vapor permeability of materials used. Insulation is usually the most air/vapor permeable material used in construction, without considering the less airtight installing. The cladding is responsible by rain water getting in walls through holes, if you refer to that. The Principle is all about using vapor-impermeable insulation materials, continuous installed and sealed to create an enclosure, the insulation itself, not in combination with the frame. And Yes, mineral walls functions on a different principle, by accumulating moisture on a cold season (they are a good water reservoir), and releasing water on the warm season. But anyway, think about roofs, living attic, ceiling at the last floor, not everything can be made out of brick. And trust me, construction made according to this Principle, is made to last.
Romans did know that the water could go up hill. There were aqueducts built with that principle in consideration.
As in our times in construction, Romans used the communicating vessels as pipes, without knowing the principle (they built aqueducts). Elements of present construction as window-panels and sandwich-panels follows the Principle of Avoiding Condensation, without taking this principle into consideration. So, ports of constructions are moisture-free, but not the whole building, as the principle states.
Very good!
In theory...
The practice is more rewarding: ruclips.net/video/WYI-xe09PLc/видео.html
nice thought. who's paying for it, cheap ass contractors won't be installing anything like this unless they get a mint
Yes but... Contractors and designers don't follow this principle because is not yet acknowledged in the state of the art. When will be, moisture-free construction needs to be a must. Who knows when...
Hei, is there anyone who knows how to make this possible in a vehicle with Aluminium walls? There is a lot of "half-truth" out there in the net. It would be fantastic to get some knowledge from professionals.
It is possible, in the construction stage of the car, with the intention of the designers. The insulation materials should be closed cell polyurethane foam, mono or be-component, sprayed on the interior surface of the metal sheet, with the condition not to exfoliate. This will solve the condensation issues, and will insulate for sun heat and outside cold. For an existing car, I don’t know…
Who is your audience? I can tell you it's not me. Despite an excellent vocabulary and a bent towards the scientific I found your video to be frustratingly over-loaded with language not useful for translating your concept into action.
Exactly what type of product actually accomplishes what you recommend? What comes close? What doesn't?
Your video was not a good investment of my time, even if the information presented is vital and accurate.
You should consider a rewrite that translates into more useful parlance.
Indeed, this is not an insulation product. Is the very base of a new building science named Avoiding Condensation, which intends to replace the current Moisture Control science of managing damp in building envelope walls. The first and only product based on this principle is eios.co/ On RUclipss like this ruclips.net/video/WYI-xe09PLc/видео.html
I am with you.
.
1:10 video starts
Min. 5,31: "......eliminating Dew point entirely"..... Really ? How can you ELIMINATE an interaction ? I am very curious to find out how you block a changeover to happen, or how you can make conversions vanish.....you either found another law of thermodynamics, in which case you should be proposed to the Nobel prize in physics in case you bother to come up with some hard evidence to back up your allegations, or you simply mistake some very basic pressure/temperature/volume ratios for whishful thinking......
Dear Mihail, the dewpoint of the interior space, considered warmer than the exterior environment, or vice versa, theoretically exists, and is a variable temperature, depending on various factors, in principal Relative Humidity and temperature. The idea of the principle is that, this dewpoint is situated always inside of a vapor-impermeable insulation. The dewpoint temperature of the inside warm vapors can be anywhere inside of this non-permissive insulation, detached from the inner surface (which needs to be warmed up by the interior heat). The non-permissive insulation needs to resist only to the theoretical differential vapor-pressure between inside warm vapors and external cold vapors. Usually, this vapor-pressure is not quite a significalt action, such warm vapors does not get in contact with cold vapors or cold areas inside of this insulation. A simple idea that functions perfectly, and saves construction from tons of condensation water/building annually. The only problem is: this humanity needs to understand that is very easy to implement this principle in practice, with the only need to change its mentality, from moisture-control to avoiding-condensation. All physics laws will remain in place, as before Archimedes and everybody else.
@@mariusradoane1787 We are talking about different things.
what about windows?
Windows are made out of double glazing and frame. The double glazing is a non-permissive insulation, and does not have condensation and moisture problems. The window frame is similar. Now the intersection of window frame and the non-permissive insulation needs to be also non-permissive conceived, and there are solutions.
2:00
get to the point and avoid the corny intros
Except it's all plastic rubbish. Breathable walls insulated by natural fibre, which can freely let moisture pass through are the go.
The good thing is, the structural element can be as breathable and natural you want. The bad thing is that breathable, natural insulation let vapors to pass, and many times lets to pass direct heat by convection (less airtightness) or absorbed water. This means a lot of water. Bio materials will be eated by organisms growed by moisture. The principle allows to build the structure with natural materials, protected moisture-free by a synthetical thermal envelope.