I just bought Fuji X-T20 kit with 18-55mm lens (thanks to your videos!) and went to the streets at evening to test the camera out. At first I was shooting in fully auto mode, but then switched to the fully manual. It was harder to make photos in that mode, but definitely much more fun! So when I came home and uploaded all the pictures I made on my laptop I realized that photos that was made in manual mode were much better! So I think the auto mode is suitable only when you just have to make a picture no matter what, or when you just don't care about the quality. But in that case you could your a smartphone as well :)
Great post Omar. I would add for street photography, try the dr400 extended dynamic range mode. The dr400 mode, in short, distributes the exposure more evenly thru the exposure of the images, removing the necessity of underexposing for highlights. It does this by requiring you to shoot at iso 640 or higher. This allows the camera to underexpose the hi lights of an image while boosting the mod tones and shadows…. basically what you eventually do in post if you underexposed your images. It does all of these calculations prior to the analog to digital conversion, so it works in RAW! To find out about this technique, check out Pal2tech video on this mode in detail: ruclips.net/video/RjjCa73XxsY/видео.html Whats great about this mode is that you no longer are required to underexpose your images to retain hi lights… something that generates, often, underexposed jpgs. It uses the computer in your camera as it should be used. As a photographer, you’re not supposed to alter your photography because digital sensor tech is shit at retaining highlights. You ALTER the tech to conform how you shoot for the scenes. Fuji dr400 mode does this. For additional street photography tips, I make sure to get it right in camera. This allows for immediate use as jpgs (I shoot raw + jpg). I uses a -4 on sharpness and and -2 on the highlight and shadow tone curves. This LOWERS the contrast on the jpg, allowing me to add contrast in an iOS photo app. I use MaxCurves to do that as it allows for sophisticated curves to be used discreetly as highlight, midrange and shadow tone curves to tweak the image.
For street photography, I set my XT3 to F8, SS250 and I let the camera choose the ISO. If I'm outside and it's not dark, then the ISO isn't going to go into noisy territory, so it feels like the best option for the camera to choose, and less fussing around for me. I can concentrate on seeing images and composition. I use single focus because I'm not tracking anything, with a wide, in the middle zone focus point. That way, I can shoot from the hip if needed. This setup seems to work pretty well for me. I shoot with the 23 F2 lens.
Hi, Omar. On my X-E3, I have had great luck with the following: 1) assigning specific Auto ISO settings to Q menu selections which I have named ("Acros - Day", "Acros +YE Night", etc.). 2) setting a high MINIMUM shutter for Day (1/320) with ISO range 200 - 6400, then shooting Aperture priority (Shutter is set to "A"). 3) spinning the Exposure Compensation dial up or down to adjus the exposure to my liking. It's very fast, my minimum shutter speed is fast enough for most action, and all I have to do to adjust the exposure is spin the EC dial. Late in the day, I can change to a different Auto ISO setting, e.g., (ISO 200 - 12,800), Default Shutter 1/100). Back-button or zone focus in Manual mode. THANKS for the great videos!
I've been a Nikon shooter for YEARS, and only recently got a Fuji x100f. Used it a week and returned it, then ordered a Fuji x100v since I do like the small x100 line. The Fuji menus are driving me crazy, and before the new v arrives I hope to read enough and watch enough videos like this one to be able to use it better than I did the x100f. Totally UNintuitive menu system, for sure, but I'll get there with the help of videos like yours. THANK YOU! You're a great "instructor!"
Hi Omar, very helpful video, I like all of you videos. Like you I like to shoot manual and find if I use Auto ISO this impedes my flow and means I end up making more adjustments so as not to clip the highlights(due to auto ISO). Manual shooting means I can set my ISO in line with the light I have on the day and then set my aperture and shutter as require. I end up using the "Sunny 16" rule most of the time when street shooting and expose for the highlights and pick f8 or f5.6 minimum with 1/250+ shutter speed. If there isn't enough light for these minimum settings then I increase my ISO from 250 accordingly. My rough guide for ISO is 200 sunny days, 400 full cloudy days, 800 bright indoor, 1600 low light indoor, 3200+ dark interior & exterior. Keep it up Omar! :-)
Hey friend! Lately I've been going full manual on my x-t20, but I haven't been using the top dials at all. I keep the ISO dial set to "A", and I keep the shutter speed on "T." Then I just use the front and rear command dials to change my settings while the camera is against my face. It doesn't feel as cool, but it's much faster - especially when using the pancake lens that already has the command dial control over aperture.
I usually use aperture priority and 1600 iso. F8 in most lighting conditions guarantees a high shudder speed to stop any action and the grain isnt out of control.
I prefer auto ISO, f/5.6 or f/8, and 1/500 for quick action in relatively bright outdoors shooting, which is one of your alternative options. Full manual and manual focus; you're a tough character! Thanks for a good one.
Great video Omar. Fuji’s are great for street. I set mine on A iso, T shutter, my comp dial on C, and set my aperture where I want my depth of field. I then use my command dials to set shutter speed and iso. It’s almost exactly like you are doing it, just using the command dials instead. If I am shooting in jpeg I will sometimes shoot the same but set my dynamic range setting to 400%. I have been using the 35 1.4 but for faster moving subjects in less than great light the focus can struggle. Keeping the focus square larger helps the speed. I would like to try the 35f2 but I have been saving for a macro lens. Thanks for the video and reading my long winded comment 😆
Yeah, I have exactly the same lens on my Fuji Camera! 😁Great video Omar! Even tough I'm mostly into filming, I also love to do some street photography from time to time. But whenever it's possible I take my photos with an aperture of 2.0 😅
I found it simple to map the ISO to the front Commander dial, and map the shutter speed to the back Commander dial. You can have easy access to the aperture by the lens ring.
I have a Fujifilm xt30 camera and it came with the xf18-55 kit lens, what would be my best lense option for shooting travel video/travel vlog video footage, i know it will be a wide angle lens but which is the best one to use? Thanks?
Thanks Omar! I also like doing manual controls to adjust exposure but I’m not that good at going full manual. I still use S-AF or C-AF when I shoot street.
This is a great little refresher for me! I’m trying to dial in my manual settings/zone focusing. One thing I’ll ask is why you never use exposure compensation? Is that not a faster way to quickly adjust for the light?
For my Fuji x100f I usually set the shutter at 120/ sec and set aperture to an appropriate dof, like for the depth of a car or boat... and then simply adjust ISO. I use the built in ND in bright light to take advantage of a wider aperture, and later turn it off and continue to adjust up ISO to compensate as the light reduces later in the day. Not many things move fast enough to blur at 120/ sec with a 35mm lens, but it is easy to bump up if needed for something really fast. 1/ 30sec is perfect for capturing great looking motion blur. rarely do I need to go beyond 1000 ISO but the images are acceptable at 1600. You are right when saying the auto ISO is not a good choice.
Great video! Not all the streets around the globe are in the same lighting conditions. For Central Europe and Bucharest (my city) I use ISO 400, F5,6, 1/250 as starting point for day time. F8 and 1/500 are, yes, good starting point to. In the night I let the camera to choose the ISO (max 3200).
Love your videos, I just got my XT-3 after shooting Canon for years. I really love it but there is a lot to learn. One thing I wish is I wish you could save groups of settings. Would be nice to have all the button dial settings saved for video, so that I could assign differently than for stills and have them all saved. Maybe a firmware update?
Same here, shot with Canon, moved to Fuji. I set all of my video settings in the menu, then when I turn the dial to "movie" mode, the camera uses those settings. I had the same concerns and was very relieved when I found this out. Hope this helps.
I usually use the third method, priority aperture mode with auto ISO (200-6400) and minimum shutter speed of 1/125. If everything goes dark, honestly I prefer my speed drops than a subexposed image.
I’ve been following your videos since the start of this year and your insights helped me alot to improve as well as deepen my passion for photography. Can you please lend me some help on what camera to choose between X-T20 and A6400? Thank you.
damnnn, your explain and all about it really easy to apply even as beginner hehe, thank you so much, even im not a fuji user but i really i need knowledges about aperture, shutter speed and ISO, now i’ve learn already from your videos. thank you so much 😊
Thanks for the great video! I was just thinking by the time you have moved SS to 1000 and changed 2 stops on the ISO dont you miss the action of the person on the bicycle? Or does it become second nature. Cheers
Love your video. I do just travel photo on vacation, streets, buildings etc - trying to get mirrorless camera and really thinking abt grtting Fujifilm T3
Hej! I’ve seen so many of your videos now, so my questions basically got most answers on setting etc. But one remains, and I have not seen a video around this?? What lens to use with your x-t20 when shooting soccer. I shoot a lot of sports and especially for soccer I am never satisfied. I love my “small” x-t20 so I want to continue with this one but what is a good lens for it. I use the 18-135 today. It doesn’t come close enough and aperture rise as soon as I zoom in so the blur in the background disappears. What would be a good lens for this?
Dude, the auto ISO did work. It kept the 6400 max you told it to keep. Because it was dark, it finally had no choice but to extend your slowest shutter speed. In other words, the auto ISO prioritizes the ISO range you gave it, then getting the correct exposure, and lastly the limit you gave on shutter speed. I think Fuji did it right. If you actually wanted it to underexpose, you could have just used your thumb on the exposure compensation dial.
Hi Omar, then it did exactly what you wanted. It controlled the grain (ISO), and gave up on your fast shutter request to get the correct exposure. ;o) Anyway, I’m a big fan of your videos, so thanks for all the great videos you make!
Hi Omar. Your videos are always great. I am not a photographer by profession, a medical doctor who got interested in photography. I started with a Nikon 3200 and now I shoot street with Fujifilm XT3 35mm f2. I started with full auto and now I am fully on manual mode however I still use AF and never tried manual focus. Can you make a video in zone focusing?
@@ogonzilla haha shit 😐 sorry I just didn't know. I have started to watch ur vidoes ever since I got my xt30 and sold it and now xt3. Thanks mate for always taking time to give us your best 😍 some day come to BHUTAN 🙂
I usually just put a range for my ISO that I like then put a min shutter speed of like 125th and auto the shutter speed and then just work the aperture ring. From my own experience, it doesn’t matter whether your using a phone camera, a point and shoot or a DSLR...people know your taking pictures so why bother being stealthy.
I've noticed the same. People go on and on about camera size- everyone sees your camera, small or not. There are ways of being stealthy when taking a shot, but I've never found camera size to make a difference. Electronic shutter is pretty damn useful though.
I’ve always been scared to use manual. I jist kept everything on auto. Until i got my xt-10, I shot with a nikon and found it more difficult to adjust manual settings. The fuji makes it easier to recall. The old school dials are so much friendlier to the eyes and easier to adjust on the fly. Your videos are so helpful for this learning photographer
I have a XT-20 and using f/2.8-4 18-55 kit lens. I think I only got a correct exposure under f/2.8, 1/20, ISO 3200 on the street at night with street light. And the photo under ISO 3200 already a bit grainy. May I know is that really the limit of my lens or camera? Or I can get a better photo with my current gear? Thank you!
i alway pick aperature and shutter speed >> also leave my ISO TO auro >> by picking in the manu like U SAID AND I FOUND IT'S FRUSTRATING >>> NOW i know WHY>> MANYTHANKS
Hi Omar. Dou you ever use Sunny 16 rule on the Fuji system for street photography. Does this work on this system. Anyone showing a vid on the Fuji system explaining this?. Love your work man. Cheers Julian
is the xt 4 any good for photography? Because I have a hard time with the iso and SS .. my phtoograhy is to dark! And when I compare with the sony a6600 sony is much sharper! Please help :)
around the 1:00 mark You talked about controlling ISO and pointed that direction but said pick a shutter speed at 800 but I'm assuming you meant the ISO at 800 hehehe.
Summary: Preferred Method: ISO Control: Set ISO based on lighting conditions (e.g., ISO 800 for balanced lighting and faster shutter speed). Aperture Settings: Depth of Field: Use f/5.6 or f/8 for a good depth of field, allowing easier zone focusing and capturing everything in focus. Manual Mode: Shutter Speed Range: Typically between 1/125, 1/250, and 1/500 seconds to adapt to varying motion speeds. Quick Adjustments: Shutter Speed Adjustments: Example - changing from 1/250 to 1/1000 seconds to capture fast-moving objects requires corresponding ISO adjustment. Shutter Speed and ISO: Stop Action: Increase shutter speed to capture movement without blur, adjusting ISO to maintain exposure. Aperture Consistency: Zone Focus: Keep aperture at f/8 for consistent manual focus without frequent adjustments. Focus Modes: Manual Focus: Preferred for control and quick adjustments. Back Button Focus: Available for auto focus when needed. Auto Mode Alternative: Auto Settings: Use auto mode for all settings in bright conditions for simplicity. Auto ISO Range: Camera Control: Set an auto ISO range with minimum shutter speed for changing light conditions. Auto ISO Limitations: Inconsistent Lighting: Auto ISO may not maintain desired shutter speed in low light, affecting motion capture. Manual Grain Control: Grain Preference: Manually control ISO to adjust graininess based on aesthetic preference.
nah ..put the camera in program (ie: double AA) ... while working adjust the aperture/shutter speed to taste use the front command dial assigned to "program shift" ... manually control ISO depending on environment and light levels.... average metering mode (set EVF to blink if blown out and if anything is blown out use "exposure compensation" dial to bring the blown highlights down) ... 23mm lens... back button focus... that's about it jobs a good 'en.
My question is that since we are on manual focus, it is possible that we just slip and turn the focus ring. How do I avoid that and keep my focus at that 2.5m that you talked about? And I don't really get the part about the depth of field. Can someone explain it to me? Doesn't depth of field move a bit with me adjusting the focus? Or was I wrong
Basically you can set the screen up so it has a ruler either in meters or feet and you manual focus the zone you want to be in focus - so around 1.5 to 2 meters on the dial - anything past that point should be sharp and then just use 250 ss or higher as necessary - keep aperture around f8 - if you move it to say 5.6 your zone of sharpness decreases accordingly - it's easy once you get used to it and my preferred method for just Street Photos
Many thanks, Omar! Could you do the same type of thing for video settings? Especially for us fledgeling RUclipsrs? ;-)) I use an ND filter but I seem to constantly underexpose my landscape takes. Ugh!! Help!
What's the big push on using Fujifilm cameras for street photography? Seems like every other reviewer is using this brand. Are these videos being sponsored by Fuji? Just asking -- it seems so curious
Of course it will ignore the auto ISO setting of 1/500 when you set the ISO to be max 6400. It doesn't really have any choice - either disregard the ISO and go even higher (which for a setting that is ISO related would be bad) or disregard the min shutter speed. So that setting is: crank up the ISO if the min shutter speed can't be satisfied until max sensitivity is reached. I use auto ISO (most likely with wrongly set setting) and shutter with manual aperture for most of the things, but I'm just a noob.
Hi Quikee. Noticed the same thing. But watching other street tog settings, almost all prefer manual aperture to allow for fast captures in focus. Whether you prefer auto shutter speed or auto iso appears to be mostly personal preference. Omar, as do many, prefer to directly control iso noise etc. Others instead directly control shutter speed to control shake and blur, while keeping an eye on the resulting iso. If you use the latter method, I find it helpful to use the back dial for shutter speed, that way there is less need to remove your eye from the viewfinder. The aperture ring, rear dial and exposure compensation dial are all pretty easy to operate in that fashion for fast captures. But that does require a constant monitoring of iso in order to adjust the other three accordingly.
Good advice. Agree the camera has no choice. :) . However, if I stick to my 1/250th-1/500th regardless of I can at least get a grab that is sharp but underexposed. Underexposed can be saved...motion blur can not. :(
I use the 23f1.4 with #fujixt2 and I have the camera set so I use front dial for ISO and back one for SS. I only set manually the f stops, usually around f8. I am a beginner so don't take my words as if I was a pro. I discovered this setting method early on and have stayed with it so far. I find the dials responsive enough and get me ready for what I want to shoot. Would that be fast enough for you? Eso, no lo puedo decir 🙂 Oh, and i forgot to say that I am in M mode and I use the lens in its full capacity 😉
I just got a xt30 and watched a bunch of videos etc but can't seem to get my camera into the modes i want for focus. Can anyone help. I walk around , trying to capture people on the street of often moving . SO what auto focus setting do I need to lock on and capture a person or face as i walk past? With my old Sony i would stick into continuous and it would do a pretty good job of fixing the person walking towards me . I am at the moment massively struggling to get it to lock fan track . Help please
Sir. For the past years. Ive been wanting to own a fuji camera. And basically along the way i constantly learning how to use fuji without ever getting it. So may i ask, what would be my first fuji camera and lens. I shoot street and my partner with the portrait. I like the rangefinder style but im low on budget. Here in Philippines, the brand new body of xt2, sells for about 45k while the xt30, also at 45k pesos. What do you think i should get? Thank You Sir Your Baldness. 🖐😂
I just set at f5.6 or f8.0 and minimum speed 1/125 with xf23f2 lens. Sometimes the blur is ok to accentuate movement. Another way is to use the P mode (Program , no Pee ... duh 🙄). The point is for me street photography is capturing the moment, technicality came second. Anyway, if you have time visit my IG instagram/ferdiyansurya
F8 and be there baby!...lol...except they ( we ) did that with film ( maybe 400 ISO at the max though some did it with Pan-X at 125 ) ...it's called practice....and you got what you got with what you had at the time....not too many complaints about Winogrand or Friedlander images....ISO changing is suitable for Instacrap but you're not gonna print well from 51,200 just cause you got the freeze frame...people are spoiled with the ISO changes on digital ( and settle for less ) rather than work it and get a decent image at a low ISO...of course that assumes you care about quality and not "followers"....just sayin'...
Hi, I just bought a new Fuji X-T2 and unbox yesterday. I have face some serious issue. 1. EVF freeze 2. I want to view my picture but read error. 3. I understand when right corner light is blinking means the memory card is recording the picture in the memory card, but it blinking almost 30 min and it can’t turn off. I have send back to distributor, and email to Fuji customer service. Anyone have same problem with me?
Omar Gonzalez Photography yes I have, I have send back to service centre. After checking they told me that my camera have serious issue especially the camera board. They will exchange a new set to me. The camera is new and this was my 1st camera in my life. I was very UNLUCKY🤦♂️
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Share your methods of shooting in the comments below! Love learning from you guys. :)
I am going to quote Xyza Cruz Bacani in the B&H podcast here: "I don't use the viewfinder."
I just bought Fuji X-T20 kit with 18-55mm lens (thanks to your videos!) and went to the streets at evening to test the camera out. At first I was shooting in fully auto mode, but then switched to the fully manual. It was harder to make photos in that mode, but definitely much more fun! So when I came home and uploaded all the pictures I made on my laptop I realized that photos that was made in manual mode were much better!
So I think the auto mode is suitable only when you just have to make a picture no matter what, or when you just don't care about the quality. But in that case you could your a smartphone as well :)
I put mine on apature priority and auto iso....
My setting is 800 iso f 16 and 1/250 with manual Lens in hyperfocal
Great post Omar.
I would add for street photography, try the dr400 extended dynamic range mode. The dr400 mode, in short, distributes the exposure more evenly thru the exposure of the images, removing the necessity of underexposing for highlights. It does this by requiring you to shoot at iso 640 or higher. This allows the camera to underexpose the hi lights of an image while boosting the mod tones and shadows…. basically what you eventually do in post if you underexposed your images. It does all of these calculations prior to the analog to digital conversion, so it works in RAW!
To find out about this technique, check out Pal2tech video on this mode in detail:
ruclips.net/video/RjjCa73XxsY/видео.html
Whats great about this mode is that you no longer are required to underexpose your images to retain hi lights… something that generates, often, underexposed jpgs. It uses the computer in your camera as it should be used. As a photographer, you’re not supposed to alter your photography because digital sensor tech is shit at retaining highlights. You ALTER the tech to conform how you shoot for the scenes. Fuji dr400 mode does this.
For additional street photography tips, I make sure to get it right in camera. This allows for immediate use as jpgs (I shoot raw + jpg). I uses a -4 on sharpness and and -2 on the highlight and shadow tone curves. This LOWERS the contrast on the jpg, allowing me to add contrast in an iOS photo app. I use MaxCurves to do that as it allows for sophisticated curves to be used discreetly as highlight, midrange and shadow tone curves to tweak the image.
Best tutorial video so far, straight to the point without bulsh* thank you mate
Hey Omar! Did not realize that you could be in manual focus and still have access to auto focus via the back button. Thank you!
For street photography, I set my XT3 to F8, SS250 and I let the camera choose the ISO. If I'm outside and it's not dark, then the ISO isn't going to go into noisy territory, so it feels like the best option for the camera to choose, and less fussing around for me. I can concentrate on seeing images and composition. I use single focus because I'm not tracking anything, with a wide, in the middle zone focus point. That way, I can shoot from the hip if needed. This setup seems to work pretty well for me. I shoot with the 23 F2 lens.
Hi, Omar. On my X-E3, I have had great luck with the following: 1) assigning specific Auto ISO settings to Q menu selections which I have named ("Acros - Day", "Acros +YE Night", etc.). 2) setting a high MINIMUM shutter for Day (1/320) with ISO range 200 - 6400, then shooting Aperture priority (Shutter is set to "A"). 3) spinning the Exposure Compensation dial up or down to adjus the exposure to my liking. It's very fast, my minimum shutter speed is fast enough for most action, and all I have to do to adjust the exposure is spin the EC dial. Late in the day, I can change to a different Auto ISO setting, e.g., (ISO 200 - 12,800), Default Shutter 1/100). Back-button or zone focus in Manual mode. THANKS for the great videos!
@@alangump1421 This is great Alan! Thanks for sharing!!
Super great advice! Thanks for adding it here for people. :)
I’ve watched a lot of instructional videos on shooting street and this was the most helpful for someone starting out and learning street photography
I've been a Nikon shooter for YEARS, and only recently got a Fuji x100f. Used it a week and returned it, then ordered a Fuji x100v since I do like the small x100 line. The Fuji menus are driving me crazy, and before the new v arrives I hope to read enough and watch enough videos like this one to be able to use it better than I did the x100f. Totally UNintuitive menu system, for sure, but I'll get there with the help of videos like yours. THANK YOU! You're a great "instructor!"
Yayyy! Omar’s back! 😊
Thanks for this instruction. Once again, very helpful!
Thank you for doing these videos. They are extremely helpful for all of us who are still learning.
Did I just saw a video of talking hands? Lol
You allowed me to focus on the camera instead of your face like 99.99%of you tubers do
OMG Talking hands, I WUV talking hands! You took me back to 1976
Omar man cant thank you enough today i took my favorite shot ever using this sitting thank you
Hi Omar, very helpful video, I like all of you videos. Like you I like to shoot manual and find if I use Auto ISO this impedes my flow and means I end up making more adjustments so as not to clip the highlights(due to auto ISO). Manual shooting means I can set my ISO in line with the light I have on the day and then set my aperture and shutter as require. I end up using the "Sunny 16" rule most of the time when street shooting and expose for the highlights and pick f8 or f5.6 minimum with 1/250+ shutter speed. If there isn't enough light for these minimum settings then I increase my ISO from 250 accordingly. My rough guide for ISO is 200 sunny days, 400 full cloudy days, 800 bright indoor, 1600 low light indoor, 3200+ dark interior & exterior. Keep it up Omar! :-)
I'm brand new to Fuji system, so far you have been of a great help
Thank you for this video. I recently bought a X-T20 and am still getting used to it. I also shoot with Canon. The 5D mk ii. Great video! 👍
Hey friend! Lately I've been going full manual on my x-t20, but I haven't been using the top dials at all. I keep the ISO dial set to "A", and I keep the shutter speed on "T." Then I just use the front and rear command dials to change my settings while the camera is against my face. It doesn't feel as cool, but it's much faster - especially when using the pancake lens that already has the command dial control over aperture.
I usually use aperture priority and 1600 iso. F8 in most lighting conditions guarantees a high shudder speed to stop any action and the grain isnt out of control.
I like that you have a set ISO....consistent noise/look in camera.
I prefer auto ISO, f/5.6 or f/8, and 1/500 for quick action in relatively bright outdoors shooting, which is one of your alternative options. Full manual and manual focus; you're a tough character! Thanks for a good one.
I use manual Zone focus and i'm getting better at it
Great video Omar. Fuji’s are great for street. I set mine on A iso, T shutter, my comp dial on C, and set my aperture where I want my depth of field. I then use my command dials to set shutter speed and iso. It’s almost exactly like you are doing it, just using the command dials instead. If I am shooting in jpeg I will sometimes shoot the same but set my dynamic range setting to 400%. I have been using the 35 1.4 but for faster moving subjects in less than great light the focus can struggle. Keeping the focus square larger helps the speed. I would like to try the 35f2 but I have been saving for a macro lens. Thanks for the video and reading my long winded comment 😆
I read it. ;)
Yeah, I have exactly the same lens on my Fuji Camera! 😁Great video Omar!
Even tough I'm mostly into filming, I also love to do some street photography from time to time. But whenever it's possible I take my photos with an aperture of 2.0 😅
I found it simple to map the ISO to the front Commander dial, and map the shutter speed to the back Commander dial. You can have easy access to the aperture by the lens ring.
I have a Fujifilm xt30 camera and it came with the xf18-55 kit lens, what would be my best lense option for shooting travel video/travel vlog video footage, i know it will be a wide angle lens but which is the best one to use? Thanks?
Thanks Omar! I also like doing manual controls to adjust exposure but I’m not that good at going full manual. I still use S-AF or C-AF when I shoot street.
This is a great little refresher for me! I’m trying to dial in my manual settings/zone focusing. One thing I’ll ask is why you never use exposure compensation? Is that not a faster way to quickly adjust for the light?
Great job always Omar, thanks
For my Fuji x100f I usually set the shutter at 120/ sec and set aperture to an appropriate dof, like for the depth of a car or boat... and then simply adjust ISO. I use the built in ND in bright light to take advantage of a wider aperture, and later turn it off and continue to adjust up ISO to compensate as the light reduces later in the day. Not many things move fast enough to blur at 120/ sec with a 35mm lens, but it is easy to bump up if needed for something really fast. 1/ 30sec is perfect for capturing great looking motion blur. rarely do I need to go beyond 1000 ISO but the images are acceptable at 1600. You are right when saying the auto ISO is not a good choice.
Hey Omar. I just bought an x-t30 so this video helped me out a lot. Keep doing your thing, its much appreciated!
Great video! Not all the streets around the globe are in the same lighting conditions. For Central Europe and Bucharest (my city) I use ISO 400, F5,6, 1/250 as starting point for day time. F8 and 1/500 are, yes, good starting point to. In the night I let the camera to choose the ISO (max 3200).
LOL in London it's always grey and gloomy - What Lens do you have? I'm working of 23mm F2
@@paulchoccyt1303 I like 35mm F2 and I use 27mm F2.8 too for street
Love your videos, I just got my XT-3 after shooting Canon for years. I really love it but there is a lot to learn. One thing I wish is I wish you could save groups of settings. Would be nice to have all the button dial settings saved for video, so that I could assign differently than for stills and have them all saved. Maybe a firmware update?
sdsanta - You can save all the settings shown in the Quick Menu under a custom name. I’m not sure what the solution is for video settings, however.
Same here, shot with Canon, moved to Fuji. I set all of my video settings in the menu, then when I turn the dial to "movie" mode, the camera uses those settings. I had the same concerns and was very relieved when I found this out. Hope this helps.
Great tips applicable to any camera.
Very important information for me. I bought FUJIFILM XT30 II with XC15-45mm kit lens.
Much appreciated! You made it simple to understand.
Would love to know more on how to use back button focus... could you possibly make a short video on it?
Great tips, thanks for sharing your knowledge !!!
Omar, that was a great video, man. I would love to hear more about manual controls depending on the situation. Big thumbs up.
Thanks again Omar. You just answered the very questions that I had on auto ISO and it's behaviour under changing light conditions 👍
Auto Iso does a great job!
Hi.. i am new, using XT30 and 35mm F2 , now i am learning street photography
I usually use the third method, priority aperture mode with auto ISO (200-6400) and minimum shutter speed of 1/125.
If everything goes dark, honestly I prefer my speed drops than a subexposed image.
Back button focus for the win! Also get great results with "sunny 16"
Hope they make the bb larger in future cameras
@@ogonzilla Agreed, that would help. BB focus is like a hidden gem of a technique.
I’ve been following your videos since the start of this year and your insights helped me alot to improve as well as deepen my passion for photography. Can you please lend me some help on what camera to choose between X-T20 and A6400? Thank you.
What. No Sony? Welcome back!
haha...Working of plenty of Sony videos for the crowd here to hate. :)
Omar Gonzalez Photography
😂😂😂
Are photographers that use Fuji and Sony cameras "Funy" photographers?
Omar Gonzalez Photography It’s risky business being both a Fuji and Sony photographer. There is always a crowd out carrying pitchforks.
@@ogonzilla can you do a video on metering? I still don't quite understand it
Yep, auto ISO is my go to!
So well explained
Will those settings work on Canon cameras?
damnnn, your explain and all about it really easy to apply even as beginner hehe, thank you so much, even im not a fuji user but i really i need knowledges about aperture, shutter speed and ISO, now i’ve learn already from your videos. thank you so much 😊
Thanks for the great video! I was just thinking by the time you have moved SS to 1000 and changed 2 stops on the ISO dont you miss the action of the person on the bicycle? Or does it become second nature. Cheers
I would add I am a newbie to photography and your videos are brilliant aids, I have XT30.
Awesome tips
Great stuff! Thx a bunch 🙏😊👍🏻
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Great video...but that knob on the far right...wat does that do..???
Really appreciate these videos Omar!! Keep em coming, recent x-t30 owner coming from Canon t2i :)
Best of luck! Have fun with it!
Love your video. I do just travel photo on vacation, streets, buildings etc - trying to get mirrorless camera and really thinking abt grtting Fujifilm T3
Xt3 and xt30 are great
Hej! I’ve seen so many of your videos now, so my questions basically got most answers on setting etc. But one remains, and I have not seen a video around this?? What lens to use with your x-t20 when shooting soccer. I shoot a lot of sports and especially for soccer I am never satisfied. I love my “small” x-t20 so I want to continue with this one but what is a good lens for it. I use the 18-135 today. It doesn’t come close enough and aperture rise as soon as I zoom in so the blur in the background disappears. What would be a good lens for this?
Dude, the auto ISO did work. It kept the 6400 max you told it to keep. Because it was dark, it finally had no choice but to extend your slowest shutter speed. In other words, the auto ISO prioritizes the ISO range you gave it, then getting the correct exposure, and lastly the limit you gave on shutter speed. I think Fuji did it right. If you actually wanted it to underexpose, you could have just used your thumb on the exposure compensation dial.
Oh I know it totally works for sure...but I like to control grain a little more than others (OCD much?) :) .
Hi Omar, then it did exactly what you wanted. It controlled the grain (ISO), and gave up on your fast shutter request to get the correct exposure. ;o) Anyway, I’m a big fan of your videos, so thanks for all the great videos you make!
@@swagonman thanks bro I appreciate your input!!
Hi Omar. Your videos are always great. I am not a photographer by profession, a medical doctor who got interested in photography. I started with a Nikon 3200 and now I shoot street with Fujifilm XT3 35mm f2. I started with full auto and now I am fully on manual mode however I still use AF and never tried manual focus. Can you make a video in zone focusing?
Haha. It’s been on my list for a year
@@ogonzilla haha shit 😐 sorry I just didn't know. I have started to watch ur vidoes ever since I got my xt30 and sold it and now xt3. Thanks mate for always taking time to give us your best 😍 some day come to BHUTAN 🙂
You are great bro .. good luck
I loooooobe your video
I usually just put a range for my ISO that I like then put a min shutter speed of like 125th and auto the shutter speed and then just work the aperture ring.
From my own experience, it doesn’t matter whether your using a phone camera, a point and shoot or a DSLR...people know your taking pictures so why bother being stealthy.
Hey, I'm just playing Pokemon Go! :)
I've noticed the same. People go on and on about camera size- everyone sees your camera, small or not. There are ways of being stealthy when taking a shot, but I've never found camera size to make a difference. Electronic shutter is pretty damn useful though.
@@ryan_conover looool yeah im using GFX on the street who cares about size .... just be as stealthy as you can be.
I’ve always been scared to use manual. I jist kept everything on auto. Until i got my xt-10, I shot with a nikon and found it more difficult to adjust manual settings. The fuji makes it easier to recall. The old school dials are so much friendlier to the eyes and easier to adjust on the fly. Your videos are so helpful for this learning photographer
I have a XT-20 and using f/2.8-4 18-55 kit lens. I think I only got a correct exposure under f/2.8, 1/20, ISO 3200 on the street at night with street light. And the photo under ISO 3200 already a bit grainy. May I know is that really the limit of my lens or camera? Or I can get a better photo with my current gear? Thank you!
Thanks for the informative video. As an X-T1 owner, I appreciate how to videos on the Fujifilm cameras.
Dude, your are gifted at explaining a.k.a. great teacher. You need to get off your u know what and write some books! Thanks for the videos!
I looove 🤓
That is a great post Omar but I have a question for you?🤔🤔🤔 Don’t you think it would make life much easier if you just used auto ISO!
i alway pick aperature and shutter speed >> also leave my ISO TO auro >> by picking in the manu like U SAID AND I FOUND IT'S FRUSTRATING >>> NOW i know WHY>> MANYTHANKS
AWESOME!
Hi Omar. Dou you ever use Sunny 16 rule on the Fuji system for street photography. Does this work on this system. Anyone showing a vid on the Fuji system explaining this?. Love your work man. Cheers Julian
Did that bicycle you are talking about have a B&H Photo flag? Did it ever get recovered?
yes....other Kando folks just started taking any bike parked. It became a free for all bike share. I was being dramatic. :)
Thank you
is the xt 4 any good for photography? Because I have a hard time with the iso and SS .. my phtoograhy is to dark! And when I compare with the sony a6600 sony is much sharper! Please help :)
X-T4 is awesome
Also depends on the lens as well
whats the name of the snap button? Where did you get it?
around the 1:00 mark You talked about controlling ISO and pointed that direction but said pick a shutter speed at 800 but I'm assuming you meant the ISO at 800 hehehe.
which camera model is this..??
Very noïce as usual Omar 👍🏼🤗. Thank you for the tips, it will help me good.
How about your bike? Are you riding like hell? 😉
traveling so no! :(
Good explanation
Summary:
Preferred Method:
ISO Control: Set ISO based on lighting conditions (e.g., ISO 800 for balanced lighting and faster shutter speed).
Aperture Settings:
Depth of Field: Use f/5.6 or f/8 for a good depth of field, allowing easier zone focusing and capturing everything in focus.
Manual Mode:
Shutter Speed Range: Typically between 1/125, 1/250, and 1/500 seconds to adapt to varying motion speeds.
Quick Adjustments:
Shutter Speed Adjustments: Example - changing from 1/250 to 1/1000 seconds to capture fast-moving objects requires corresponding ISO adjustment.
Shutter Speed and ISO:
Stop Action: Increase shutter speed to capture movement without blur, adjusting ISO to maintain exposure.
Aperture Consistency:
Zone Focus: Keep aperture at f/8 for consistent manual focus without frequent adjustments.
Focus Modes:
Manual Focus: Preferred for control and quick adjustments.
Back Button Focus: Available for auto focus when needed.
Auto Mode Alternative:
Auto Settings: Use auto mode for all settings in bright conditions for simplicity.
Auto ISO Range:
Camera Control: Set an auto ISO range with minimum shutter speed for changing light conditions.
Auto ISO Limitations:
Inconsistent Lighting: Auto ISO may not maintain desired shutter speed in low light, affecting motion capture.
Manual Grain Control:
Grain Preference: Manually control ISO to adjust graininess based on aesthetic preference.
sunny 16 and distance scale helps
nah ..put the camera in program (ie: double AA) ... while working adjust the aperture/shutter speed to taste use the front command dial assigned to "program shift" ... manually control ISO depending on environment and light levels.... average metering mode (set EVF to blink if blown out and if anything is blown out use "exposure compensation" dial to bring the blown highlights down) ... 23mm lens... back button focus... that's about it jobs a good 'en.
My question is that since we are on manual focus, it is possible that we just slip and turn the focus ring. How do I avoid that and keep my focus at that 2.5m that you talked about?
And I don't really get the part about the depth of field. Can someone explain it to me? Doesn't depth of field move a bit with me adjusting the focus? Or was I wrong
Basically you can set the screen up so it has a ruler either in meters or feet and you manual focus the zone you want to be in focus - so around 1.5 to 2 meters on the dial - anything past that point should be sharp and then just use 250 ss or higher as necessary - keep aperture around f8 - if you move it to say 5.6 your zone of sharpness decreases accordingly - it's easy once you get used to it and my preferred method for just Street Photos
Many thanks, Omar! Could you do the same type of thing for video settings? Especially for us fledgeling RUclipsrs? ;-)) I use an ND filter but I seem to constantly underexpose my landscape takes. Ugh!! Help!
This kinda goes without saying but your ND filter is decreasing incoming light. You need a larger aperture or just take off the ND
Video: Set shutter to 1/50th (filming in 24fps) or 1/60 (30fps). Next. SET your aperture. Ex. f4 Lastly use ISO to adjust.
You said something about Canon. Which Canon are you talking about?
I use mostly the 5d line.
Very helpful
What's the big push on using Fujifilm cameras for street photography? Seems like every other reviewer is using this brand. Are these videos being sponsored by Fuji? Just asking -- it seems so curious
Of course it will ignore the auto ISO setting of 1/500 when you set the ISO to be max 6400. It doesn't really have any choice - either disregard the ISO and go even higher (which for a setting that is ISO related would be bad) or disregard the min shutter speed. So that setting is: crank up the ISO if the min shutter speed can't be satisfied until max sensitivity is reached.
I use auto ISO (most likely with wrongly set setting) and shutter with manual aperture for most of the things, but I'm just a noob.
Hi Quikee. Noticed the same thing. But watching other street tog settings, almost all prefer manual aperture to allow for fast captures in focus. Whether you prefer auto shutter speed or auto iso appears to be mostly personal preference. Omar, as do many, prefer to directly control iso noise etc. Others instead directly control shutter speed to control shake and blur, while keeping an eye on the resulting iso. If you use the latter method, I find it helpful to use the back dial for shutter speed, that way there is less need to remove your eye from the viewfinder. The aperture ring, rear dial and exposure compensation dial are all pretty easy to operate in that fashion for fast captures. But that does require a constant monitoring of iso in order to adjust the other three accordingly.
Good advice. Agree the camera has no choice. :) . However, if I stick to my 1/250th-1/500th regardless of I can at least get a grab that is sharp but underexposed. Underexposed can be saved...motion blur can not. :(
i just realised that the Fuji are not designed to operate with 1 hand only, which is of course useful for discret quick changes.
You're wrong. Use the front and back dials.
@@rodsilva80 oh, so we can change the aperture and the iso with the dials on the right too? I never used it, i don't know but i'm investigating fuji.
I use the 23f1.4 with #fujixt2 and I have the camera set so I use front dial for ISO and back one for SS. I only set manually the f stops, usually around f8.
I am a beginner so don't take my words as if I was a pro. I discovered this setting method early on and have stayed with it so far. I find the dials responsive enough and get me ready for what I want to shoot. Would that be fast enough for you? Eso, no lo puedo decir 🙂
Oh, and i forgot to say that I am in M mode and I use the lens in its full capacity 😉
1:00 what youre trying to say is ISO right?
Gracias Omar this is helpful
helpful
I just got a xt30 and watched a bunch of videos etc but can't seem to get my camera into the modes i want for focus. Can anyone help. I walk around , trying to capture people on the street of often moving . SO what auto focus setting do I need to lock on and capture a person or face as i walk past? With my old Sony i would stick into continuous and it would do a pretty good job of fixing the person walking towards me . I am at the moment massively struggling to get it to lock fan track . Help please
The best mode for tracking subjects I found on XT2 XT20 to be CF and give it a zone. Of 9 boxes usually. Didn't test the xt30 well enough though.
Waiting for the Fujifilm gift bag unpacking video.
Me too!
can this be applied to wedding day photography?
I'd say anytime shutter speed is important you can use this method. However for a wedding I would probably move to f2, f1.2 and use AF not zone.
Sir. For the past years. Ive been wanting to own a fuji camera. And basically along the way i constantly learning how to use fuji without ever getting it. So may i ask, what would be my first fuji camera and lens. I shoot street and my partner with the portrait. I like the rangefinder style but im low on budget. Here in Philippines, the brand new body of xt2, sells for about 45k while the xt30, also at 45k pesos. What do you think i should get? Thank You Sir Your Baldness. 🖐😂
Leave ISO on auto... so much easier!
I just set at f5.6 or f8.0 and minimum speed 1/125 with xf23f2 lens.
Sometimes the blur is ok to accentuate movement. Another way is to use the P mode (Program , no Pee ... duh 🙄). The point is for me street photography is capturing the moment, technicality came second.
Anyway, if you have time visit my IG instagram/ferdiyansurya
F8 and be there baby!...lol...except they ( we ) did that with film ( maybe 400 ISO at the max though some did it with Pan-X at 125 ) ...it's called practice....and you got what you got with what you had at the time....not too many complaints about Winogrand or Friedlander images....ISO changing is suitable for Instacrap but you're not gonna print well from 51,200 just cause you got the freeze frame...people are spoiled with the ISO changes on digital ( and settle for less ) rather than work it and get a decent image at a low ISO...of course that assumes you care about quality and not "followers"....just sayin'...
I guess I have that "film" frame of mind as well...some images don't work with cottage cheese grain...others do! Cheers. :)
And, where can we see the results? On your site and Instagram there are almost no street photos...
Posted a few yesterday. Mostly a portrait photographer. :) .
@@ogonzilla Thank you. I want to try your manual settings...
Hi, I just bought a new Fuji X-T2 and unbox yesterday. I have face some serious issue.
1. EVF freeze
2. I want to view my picture but read error.
3. I understand when right corner light is blinking means the memory card is recording the picture in the memory card, but it blinking almost 30 min and it can’t turn off.
I have send back to distributor, and email to Fuji customer service.
Anyone have same problem with me?
Have you tried with different memory cards? Faster speeds!?
Omar Gonzalez Photography yes I have, I have send back to service centre. After checking they told me that my camera have serious issue especially the camera board. They will exchange a new set to me. The camera is new and this was my 1st camera in my life. I was very UNLUCKY🤦♂️
@@ganshengkai7060 sorry to hear. Shouldn't happen!
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LoL, that must have been for the younger folks...that was some fast instructions...ok watch it again
It's much less complicated than this =p just take the picture~