Hey John, with a Dremel and a cut-off disc you never have to worry about your bolts being too long. Just trim those suckers shorter, saves plenty of trips to the hardware store. As long as you have a clean cut the nut will grab the threads no problem. I've done it quite a few times with no issue.
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech Yes..I remember I wired in something else back in the day on a I Robot..Ugh..Game was worth nothing back then but I remember liking it cause yea it's a cool underated game..
The control panel looks like it would be pretty easy to 3D-print. If there's no shops in your area with printers you could try asking someone from the engineering department in your nearest university whether they'd be able to do it for you.
For the control panel repair, you could mock up the contours using thin cardboard then overlay with fiberglass and finish it out with bondo and paint. Kinda messy though. Surely there's a decent replacement panel laying around somewhere.
fill the holes with spray foam, let it harden, then use long stranded bondo (fiberglass reinforced, and waterproof) to bridge the gap and get the general shape, then sand and shape the control panel, use a fine finishing compound bondo to make a smooth finish, paint and start playing!hope this helps, love the channel, keep up the great work!
Just take the control panel to a body shop and see if they can do anything with it. It'll be one more thing you won't have to worry about, and you'll be able to just put the cab in the basement.
Re: CP repair -- if I were to attempt repair of the vacuuformed plastic, I might try filling the cavities and building up the missing areas with expanding foam. It's shapeable and sandable once cured and is compatible with poly body filler (bondo).
_"A three hour tour. A three hour tour."_ Just like that show, the lifetime destination of the arcade/restores is a fun dedication. Just the other night, I was ranting about a possible direction the future might go towards. An idea that that _Kingsmen_ movie was using and some other movie I can't currently recall the name to, where characters were using a form of Google Glass to make monitors and people/things appear where there was no such mass in real space. Another great use of such tech could be to bring up 'tip notes' as you work on circuit boards. Makes it far easier to identify what bottom points connect to what surface components. It really sounds like a helper on a beast of a board like that power supply.
Hey John, jimbodeanny here from KLOV. I'd put down serious money that your Jump Bug issue is the focus pin on the neck board. I know you swapped the neckboard once already, but like I said before, I had the exact same issue with my G07 in my Ms. Pac. The issue kept getting worse, taking all the way up to an hour to warm up and regain focus. It happened after I moved the game so I wouldn't be surprised if that's what happened with your Jump Bug. Chris Rhoades (chris25810) looked at it and we ended up swapping the neckboard alrogether to fix the issue. Swap out the neck board or just the socket and I'll bet your problem will be solved. Good luck!
I love Happ Vision Pros. I bought three brand new ones from Arcadeshop in 2007 for Ikari Warriors, Street Fighter II, and Missile Command. They are still like new, because I don't put a lot of hours on my games. They all had perfect convergence, focus, color balance, purity, geometry, etc. out of the box; simply beautiful. And that remote adjustment board, complete with horizontal width adjustment (no dicking around with a horizontal width coil), is the tits ... a must-have if you're going to be swapping boards in a JAMMA cabinet.
I've been thinking about that poor control panel. I had some ideas and then did some research to back it up. You can create a form/mold out of wood if you're handy with a table saw to slip in from behind, then apply your bondo from the top. Use a release agent on the form. Folks have used everything from WD-40, Simple Green, and even PAM cooking Spray on the mold/form to ensure it pops out easily. I suggest cutting a recess in the mold near the under edge of the panel so the bondo can flow to the underside for a firm grip. I would also practice on some similar junk plastic before tackling the real thing. Hope this helps give you some inspiration to tackle it.
If you stick two pieces of wood through the broken part of the 'molding' and use some acrylic putty (or bondo) you can recreate the shapes and make them stronger too. I tried looking for one and man, i could find an obscure 60's tool to open a safe, but not that piece. If you manage to score one, you're officially the luckiest man alive. Edit: if the manual says use "grease a" use grease a, some types of lubricants can damage parts. They know what they do when they commit something to paper.
Tech tip of the day just grab some speakers out of their enclosures that came with those older CRT computer monitors they are shielded then put them in series or parallel depending on what their Ohm's rated thanks for inspiring me to get my iRobot out and recap the power unit
00:04:45 In The Garage 00:21:25 Replacing Power Supply Caps 00:39:00 Testing Dual Power Rectifier / "I am not an Engineer" 00:49:20 Check Caps 01:05:00 Replacing Diodes 01:18:43 Next Day after messing with the heat sink 01:25:18 John PSA 01:31:31 Game Plays Blind 01:34:20 New Monitor Install 01:37:28 Ian Kellogg Shows up 01:56:30 "Plug it in and see what happens" 01:59:50 Working on the joystick 02:18:06 Ians Toy 02:21:08 Back to the Joystick 02:44:40 Testing the Joystick 02:52:42 Basement / Viewer Mail
If the control panel body is plastic I would just use fiberglass and smooth every out on top with some bondo, but you need to kind of rebuild and regain the shape the control panel structure with fiberglass first though.
I wonder if you might have some luck getting a hold of a Makerspace in your area. Might be able to get the control panel scanned and then fixed up digitally and reprinted. Worth a look at least.
John, To fix the control panel, I would use fine hardware cloth (heavy-metal-screen) formed and attached from the under side using liquid metal to attach. Then bondo over the top.
Not sure if you ever received the message when I asked for the schematics so here we go again: If you plan to replace the power supply and the amp with modern components: OK here's what I got so far: Audio comes from the CPU PCB on a brown and a white wire (pins 8 and 9 of the harness on P20) which goes to the pins 1 and 2 on P7 on the PSU PCB Audio is amplified on PSU PCB. Amplified audio goes from the PSU PCB on an orange and a white wire (pins 3 and 4 of P7 on the PSU PCB) and goes from there to the speakers. White wire from pin 4 of P7 goes to the ground of LS4 and through another connector (P32) the ground of LS2. Audio goes through the orange wire to the "utility PCB" (must be another small PCB tucked in somewhere) which has the volume controls. From there the audio is routed back to the speakers with orange wire. The speakergroups LS1/LS2 and LS3/LS4 are hooked in series, so no sound will come out of all speakers until all of them are hooked up. As for power supply (Pins on the PSU PCB): Ground for the CPU board is supplied on pins 11/13/14 of P6 +15.5V for the CPU board is supplied on pin 4 of P6. (labeled +5V RTN) +5V for the CPU board is supplied on pins 7/8 of P6. (labeled +5V REG) Ground for the video board is supplied on pins 13/14 of P6. (labeled +5V RTN) +5V for the video board is supplied on pins 9/10 of P6. (labeled +5V REG) the sense inputs on pins 15/16 of P6 are for the power supply to detect heavy load on the wires and to compensate for voltage drop and spikes; they are not *really* needed if you decide to go for a modern PSU.
hi, Jhon, for the iRobot you can use polyurethane foam and fiberglass cloth, then grind it and make it smooth. I hope you go on with the iRobot. and you work better with some one in de basement 👍🏻. it's a pity that I live in Europe other wise I would help you. Greetings.
Hey John loved the I, Robot video. Keep up the great awesome work on your channel. I have a question though John have you taken down any of your videos recently? Because I thought you had already surpassed the 300 video mark already on your channel?
Great vid John! Nice to see Ian Kellog and his girlfriend as a bonus! I ROBOT is a great game ad I think this restore will be a success! Do you know italian "cartapesta?" Try to repair the control panel using a "metal grid" base soldered inside the panel for support, then bondo-it!!
I got a couple years on you and I have good eye sight also but my advice if you read this (dout) use some cheap cheater glasses or eye magnifying glass to look at your traces or solder joints, its what I do and it helps big time. youll be amazed, got more tips but.......
Love your videos, John. Very informative, and fun to watch. I hope this isn't a weird question, though, but it's been bugging me for a while (and it's not related to arcade games)... what's the song that starts playing at 1:34:27? I thought it was a Kill Screens song, but I couldn't find it.
the focus pot on the flyback may have been adjusted when monitor had bad caps - try adjusting focus pot after its warmed up. if no change, look at both ground pin and focus lead on neckboard - or change out flyback altogether. Its also possible you may have cracked pad or trace under flyback I had a few years back with a hantarex.
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech Please replace the jump bug monitor with the new one you used to test out the game during the restore and be done with it. That way it will stop (jump) bugging you!! xD
Another epic video John your dedication to saving old arcades is amazing,sad to see sprint 2 miss out on one of your quality restores but nice work donating it to Ian can you do a "on the road " video and go visit him when he's done restoring it pleas. Keep up the great work Steve 👇🏻Shameless RUclips plug 👇🏻 ruclips.net/video/wKVm5FALC-Y/видео.html
speekers @ partsexspress dot com I use to do a lot of hi fi and speaker / amp building and I would order speakers from them all the time, price is not bad and quality is outstanding. and they have shielded and non of every size you would want.
Don't know if this helps, Happ 4" 4Ohm. I've used their 5" 8Ohm in a lot of my Jamma cabs. They are decent, better than most of what I find in my cabs. na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/jukebox_audio_equipment/5555-14680-00
Hey John, with a Dremel and a cut-off disc you never have to worry about your bolts being too long. Just trim those suckers shorter, saves plenty of trips to the hardware store. As long as you have a clean cut the nut will grab the threads no problem. I've done it quite a few times with no issue.
thanks again John
Great job on the I Robot !!!! That power supply is a complicated unit!!!!!!!!!!!
Dan Keller Yeah, not a fan of that power supply!
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech Yes..I remember I wired in something else back in the day on a I Robot..Ugh..Game was worth nothing back then but I remember liking it cause yea it's a cool underated game..
fantastic
The control panel looks like it would be pretty easy to 3D-print. If there's no shops in your area with printers you could try asking someone from the engineering department in your nearest university whether they'd be able to do it for you.
LDazx Maybe Ben Heck would like to help....
LDazx I believe it would be better to cast a mold from below with clay or something and then send the mold to vacuum-mold the entire piece.
LDazx This was my first thought too - if i cant find an replacement panel, I would try to 3D print it.
this is a message for fred and john.
I love data east pinball attract sounds.
For the control panel repair, you could mock up the contours using thin cardboard then overlay with fiberglass and finish it out with bondo and paint. Kinda messy though. Surely there's a decent replacement panel laying around somewhere.
fill the holes with spray foam, let it harden, then use long stranded bondo (fiberglass reinforced, and waterproof) to bridge the gap and get the general shape, then sand and shape the control panel, use a fine finishing compound bondo to make a smooth finish, paint and start playing!hope this helps, love the channel, keep up the great work!
I love these types of videos
loved this game when i was a kid. local arcade got this and return of the jedi on the same day good times
Great video! Just finished it!
Great work, John.
Awesome, Awesome video John!!! This was great start to finish.
It's crazy how much more efficient and faster you are with the Hakko now vs your solda-pull-it!
Thanks! That tool rules!!
Very good John!
The new transition graphics are awesome. Like the garage door? Perfect. Keep it up.
Yay!! John I have missed your videos!
well done mate, you got a lot done here and I enjoyed every minute.
the pole position sound is Iconic for most of us in our 40s
Just take the control panel to a body shop and see if they can do anything with it. It'll be one more thing you won't have to worry about, and you'll be able to just put the cab in the basement.
Maybe you could make an edge connector extender with inline fuses so if the voltage ramps up the harness goes first?
John, 44:25 Some solder wik and flux cleans up the pad nice & quick. -- John , I look forward to your videos each week. Thanks for making them!
Charles Smith Thanks, Charles! I need to get some solder wick.
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech You can get it super cheap on eBay.
Re: CP repair -- if I were to attempt repair of the vacuuformed plastic, I might try filling the cavities and building up the missing areas with expanding foam. It's shapeable and sandable once cured and is compatible with poly body filler (bondo).
_"A three hour tour. A three hour tour."_
Just like that show, the lifetime destination of the arcade/restores is a fun dedication.
Just the other night, I was ranting about a possible direction the future might go towards. An idea that that _Kingsmen_ movie was using and some other movie I can't currently recall the name to, where characters were using a form of Google Glass to make monitors and people/things appear where there was no such mass in real space. Another great use of such tech could be to bring up 'tip notes' as you work on circuit boards. Makes it far easier to identify what bottom points connect to what surface components. It really sounds like a helper on a beast of a board like that power supply.
Hey John, jimbodeanny here from KLOV. I'd put down serious money that your Jump Bug issue is the focus pin on the neck board. I know you swapped the neckboard once already, but like I said before, I had the exact same issue with my G07 in my Ms. Pac. The issue kept getting worse, taking all the way up to an hour to warm up and regain focus. It happened after I moved the game so I wouldn't be surprised if that's what happened with your Jump Bug. Chris Rhoades (chris25810) looked at it and we ended up swapping the neckboard alrogether to fix the issue. Swap out the neck board or just the socket and I'll bet your problem will be solved. Good luck!
Good advice. I have a crap neck board. I'll pull the socket off of it. Thanks!!
I love Happ Vision Pros. I bought three brand new ones from Arcadeshop in 2007 for Ikari Warriors, Street Fighter II, and Missile Command. They are still like new, because I don't put a lot of hours on my games. They all had perfect convergence, focus, color balance, purity, geometry, etc. out of the box; simply beautiful. And that remote adjustment board, complete with horizontal width adjustment (no dicking around with a horizontal width coil), is the tits ... a must-have if you're going to be swapping boards in a JAMMA cabinet.
I've been thinking about that poor control panel. I had some ideas and then did some research to back it up. You can create a form/mold out of wood if you're handy with a table saw to slip in from behind, then apply your bondo from the top. Use a release agent on the form. Folks have used everything from WD-40, Simple Green, and even PAM cooking Spray on the mold/form to ensure it pops out easily. I suggest cutting a recess in the mold near the under edge of the panel so the bondo can flow to the underside for a firm grip. I would also practice on some similar junk plastic before tackling the real thing. Hope this helps give you some inspiration to tackle it.
Real bummer that plastic control panel is damaged!! Very cool game John
If you stick two pieces of wood through the broken part of the 'molding' and use some acrylic putty (or bondo) you can recreate the shapes and make them stronger too.
I tried looking for one and man, i could find an obscure 60's tool to open a safe, but not that piece. If you manage to score one, you're officially the luckiest man alive.
Edit: if the manual says use "grease a" use grease a, some types of lubricants can damage parts. They know what they do when they commit something to paper.
John! Thanks for the Video!
I would like that Double Dragon marquee!?
Yes!! Now I have something to watch that's interesting! Thanks John!!!
19k subscribers on Johns Arcade
Dammit Jimmy! LMAO
Great video, John! I like you, Man!
Tech tip of the day just grab some speakers out of their enclosures that came with those older CRT computer monitors they are shielded then put them in series or parallel depending on what their Ohm's rated thanks for inspiring me to get my iRobot out and recap the power unit
00:04:45 In The Garage
00:21:25 Replacing Power Supply Caps
00:39:00 Testing Dual Power Rectifier / "I am not an Engineer"
00:49:20 Check Caps
01:05:00 Replacing Diodes
01:18:43 Next Day after messing with the heat sink
01:25:18 John PSA
01:31:31 Game Plays Blind
01:34:20 New Monitor Install
01:37:28 Ian Kellogg Shows up
01:56:30 "Plug it in and see what happens"
01:59:50 Working on the joystick
02:18:06 Ians Toy
02:21:08 Back to the Joystick
02:44:40 Testing the Joystick
02:52:42 Basement / Viewer Mail
ILordSpawnI Thanks for doing this!
ILordSpawnI Hmm.. they do not work.
Your welcome. Should work now.
If the control panel body is plastic I would just use fiberglass and smooth every out on top with some bondo, but you need to kind of rebuild and regain the shape the control panel structure with fiberglass first though.
The Mega Drive / Genesis had an analog controller before Saturn or Dreamcast! It worked with After Burner II, Super Monaco GP II, etc
Wheeeh 3 hours long?! Awesome :D
Geez John this episode is longer than kingdom hospital lol. I love it
I wonder if you might have some luck getting a hold of a Makerspace in your area. Might be able to get the control panel scanned and then fixed up digitally and reprinted. Worth a look at least.
"Put it in the warehouse, Jimmy." I lol'd, but was really hoping for an "mmhmm lookie here now".
Sweet ! 3 hours of tech-goodness.
I love it !
yay!
John, To fix the control panel, I would use fine hardware cloth (heavy-metal-screen) formed and attached from the under side using liquid metal to attach. Then bondo over the top.
When the monitor was put in and it moves forward a bit, my arms jumped up to grap it... :)
Okay John, next title for your band's album/cd. "Magnetic Interference"
at 1:24:10 you can see your fluke is still showing voltage even though it isn't hooked up, or shorted to itself. I suspect your fluke is the issue.
3 hours, hooray!
Not sure if you ever received the message when I asked for the schematics so here we go again:
If you plan to replace the power supply and the amp with modern components:
OK here's what I got so far:
Audio comes from the CPU PCB on a brown and a white wire (pins 8 and 9 of the harness on P20)
which goes to the pins 1 and 2 on P7 on the PSU PCB
Audio is amplified on PSU PCB.
Amplified audio goes from the PSU PCB on an orange and a white wire (pins 3 and 4 of P7 on the PSU PCB) and goes from there to the speakers.
White wire from pin 4 of P7 goes to the ground of LS4 and through another connector (P32) the ground of LS2. Audio goes through the orange wire to the "utility PCB" (must be another small PCB tucked in somewhere) which has the volume controls. From there the audio is routed back to the speakers with orange wire.
The speakergroups LS1/LS2 and LS3/LS4 are hooked in series, so no sound will come out of all speakers until all of them are hooked up.
As for power supply (Pins on the PSU PCB):
Ground for the CPU board is supplied on pins 11/13/14 of P6
+15.5V for the CPU board is supplied on pin 4 of P6. (labeled +5V RTN)
+5V for the CPU board is supplied on pins 7/8 of P6. (labeled +5V REG)
Ground for the video board is supplied on pins 13/14 of P6. (labeled +5V RTN)
+5V for the video board is supplied on pins 9/10 of P6. (labeled +5V REG)
the sense inputs on pins 15/16 of P6 are for the power supply to detect heavy load on the wires and to compensate for voltage drop and spikes; they are not *really* needed if you decide to go for a modern PSU.
nrdesign1991 Thanks, I did get that! However, we rebuilt the power supply in this episode. We are all good! :)
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech That's nice to hear. Hope it'll last another 30 years. Keep it up!
TDA ic's are audio amp's
TDA2030s are audio power amps
MAGIK Thanks, I know that now. I think I say that later in the video. :)
asteroids , pole position, star wars I think, centipede, battlezone- the list goes on.
you might get someone to 3d print a control panel or at least the missing portions of the panel. just a thought
3 hours? Holy crap! Now I know why the video is 2 days late. That's how long it took to render. :P
hi, Jhon, for the iRobot you can use polyurethane foam and fiberglass cloth, then grind it and make it smooth. I hope you go on with the iRobot. and you work better with some one in de basement 👍🏻. it's a pity that I live in Europe other wise I would help you. Greetings.
i watched the whole thing.
Hey john can i recommend you use a carbon fiber pen for cleaning up boards they work awesome, thanks for the vid
Nik Whale Hey, Nik! I have one of those pens. Works great!
John is your Atari Star Wars with ESB kit gone now?
The Star Wars attract sounds are nice I think
Hey John loved the I, Robot video. Keep up the great awesome work on your channel.
I have a question though John have you taken down any of your videos recently? Because I thought you had already surpassed the 300 video mark already on your channel?
drizzt186 No, I didn't take any down. Weird.
I will take a 16 W 12 V automobile light and put it across to 5 V rail
Hey john, Can you provide a link to the Bob Roberts connector kit you where talking about? I can't find it anywhere lol
Great vid John!
Nice to see Ian Kellog and his girlfriend as a bonus!
I ROBOT is a great game ad I think this restore will be a success!
Do you know italian "cartapesta?" Try to repair the control panel using a "metal grid" base soldered inside the panel for support, then bondo-it!!
1:38:21 I didn't know John's arcade was filmed in front of a live studio audience.
GGfailsAGAIN Where do we sign up for tickets!? :D
What's the desoldering iron you use? And awesome vids as always
Try using a 3D printer for a new control panel.
I got a couple years on you and I have good eye sight also but my advice if you read this (dout) use some cheap cheater glasses or eye magnifying glass to look at your traces or solder joints, its what I do and it helps big time. youll be amazed, got more tips but.......
still don't see an e-mail overlay John during the viewer mail section ;) Anyway thx for another excellent video! Keep up the good work
colsaber Ha. Ok, I'll do it. :D And get a new e-mail too.
Love your videos, John. Very informative, and fun to watch. I hope this isn't a weird question, though, but it's been bugging me for a while (and it's not related to arcade games)... what's the song that starts playing at 1:34:27? I thought it was a Kill Screens song, but I couldn't find it.
change flyback its got no focus drive - either that or try moving focus pot back and forth a few times CAREFULLY .
MAGIK I need to do something. It's making me MAD!!
the focus pot on the flyback may have been adjusted when monitor had bad caps - try adjusting focus pot after its warmed up.
if no change, look at both ground pin and focus lead on neckboard - or change out flyback altogether. Its also possible you may have cracked pad or trace under flyback I had a few years back with a hantarex.
where do I buy a cap set for a golden tee fore,and a Crusin world.love you channel, keep it up
try www.iankellogg.com
What?? Sprint 2 is gone??? NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!
Is your buddy going to document the restore on it???
John there was no viewer mail
00:02:28 funny face when u pause it at right moments
Mysteriouspiggies yeah, there are always some crazy faces if you pause it at the wrong spot. :)
Put the IROBOT in your basement and enjoy it until you have time to restore it. Please do a gameplay of IROBOT.
Every time I watch one of your videos, my wife shouts out "you are NEVER getting a Pole Position" !
harmonica song? MP3?
John, are all those caps "in correct"?
this is one game I never saw in any arcade or pizza joint etc but man I woulda played the sh@# out of this game back then
John
Which sony pvm model is yours monitor?
Uh. Don't recall. :(
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech
Thanks
Looks like it's coming along but man so many problems with the game.
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech Please replace the jump bug monitor with the new one you used to test out the game during the restore and be done with it. That way it will stop (jump) bugging you!! xD
monitor is going to the I robot
wholeset Thank you I didn't get through enough of the video. I hope he sorts out that shit monitor.
How do you call a game where a ROBOT fights an EYE? XD
52:39 lmao
john phillips Puti in da warehouse, Jimmy!
rotaryturbo07 lmaoooo
+john phillips LOL @ your name
#MajorRobot
43
Another epic video John your dedication to saving old arcades is amazing,sad to see sprint 2 miss out on one of your quality restores but nice work donating it to Ian can you do a "on the road " video and go visit him when he's done restoring it pleas.
Keep up the great work
Steve
👇🏻Shameless RUclips plug 👇🏻
ruclips.net/video/wKVm5FALC-Y/видео.html
?
speekers @ partsexspress dot com I use to do a lot of hi fi and speaker / amp building and I would order speakers from them all the time, price is not bad and quality is outstanding. and they have shielded and non of every size you would want.
This was a very interesting video. I'm really happy for you on getting your game working. Also, I do like when you show work on camera.
hey John I have a World Cup soccer I'll sell it to you for 3000
Don't know if this helps, Happ 4" 4Ohm. I've used their 5" 8Ohm in a lot of my Jamma cabs. They are decent, better than most of what I find in my cabs.
na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/jukebox_audio_equipment/5555-14680-00
first