THIS ENGINE NEEDS A REBUILD! | Diesel Yanmar 3TNV82A
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- Опубликовано: 26 ноя 2022
- After a successful Yanmar 3TN75RJ rebuild, I now have some issues with another Yanmar diesel engine that is a shade bigger in displacement. This engine was removed from the John Deere 1445 and it seems like somebody tried to fix it before me!
I wonder what could go wrong if someone tried to patch this back together with a full tube of silicone...haha! Nevertheless, it's my problem now and it's up to me to solve the issues on this engine.
Once again I laid out many parts on the table to try and diagnose the main failure or issue of this engine. This one wasn't easy, but I think I was able to identify enough, to understand what parts I will need to rebuild this neat little 3-cylinder diesel engine.
If this video was helpful in any way, I'd appreciate it if you hit that like button and if you want to be one of the first to see the assembly video, be sure to subscribe!
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This engine came out of a John Deere 1445 Series II and is very similar to a John Deere 1435, John Deere 1435 Series II, John Deere 1445, John Deere 1550, John Deere 1570, John Deere 1575, John Deere 1580, John Deere 1585
Yanmar 3TNV82A, Yanmar 3TNV82A-B, Yanmar 3TNV84, Yanmar 3TNV84T, Yanmar 3TNV84T-B, Yanmar 3TNV88, Yanmar 3TNV88-B, Yanmar 3TNV88-U
Watch My Previous Rebuilds:
𝐁𝐌𝐖 𝐑𝟔𝟎/𝟓 𝐌𝐨𝐭𝐨𝐫𝐜𝐲𝐜𝐥𝐞 𝐏𝐫𝐨𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭: bit.ly/3uJVXOn
𝐉𝐨𝐡𝐧 𝐃𝐞𝐞𝐫𝐞 4𝟎𝟎: bit.ly/3unVNfg
𝐉𝐨𝐡𝐧 𝐃𝐞𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝟑𝟎𝟎:bit.ly/3BbuWDz
𝐉𝐨𝐡𝐧 𝐃𝐞𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝟑𝟏𝟕:bit.ly/3wHy2x5
𝗕𝗼𝗹𝗲𝗻𝘀 𝗛𝗧𝟮𝟬 𝗣𝗿𝗼𝗷𝗲𝗰𝘁: bit.ly/2NOLvlp
𝗔𝗹𝗹𝗶𝘀 𝗖𝗵𝗮𝗹𝗺𝗲𝗿𝘀 𝐂/𝐁 𝗧𝗿𝗮𝗰𝘁𝗼𝗿: bit.ly/3bvXLzd
𝗧𝗵𝗼𝗺𝗮𝘀 𝗛𝗟𝟭𝟳𝟯 𝗦𝗸𝗶𝗱 𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗲𝗿: bit.ly/3pDTBKM
𝗝𝗼𝗵𝗻 𝗗𝗲𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝟔𝟖/𝟕𝟎 𝗣𝗿𝗼𝗷𝗲𝗰𝘁: bit.ly/3bKGra3
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E-Mail: Workshoprebuild@gmail.com
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#yanmar #engine #dieselengine
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I’d like to comment my personal experience.
My guess is that the cylinder bores are worn from dirt.
The 855 John Deere has two air filers that could fit it :AM 102746 and AM 108184.
The former is 9” long and the latter is 8.25”. Other than that they are identical.
People frequently use the shorter filter without realizing it and that leaves 3/4” air gap around the air filter at the back of the canister.
Thank you for sharing your experience here in this video! I was not aware of the two different filters you mentioned above.
This engine came out of a John Deere 1445 and the air intake box is a little bit different to the John Deere 855, but I will make sure the new filter seats up against the bottom of the filter housing to ensure no debris gets past.
Regards Andreas
The bearings and pistons seem to be in pretty rough shape! It will be great to watch you rebuild this and bring it back to life. I cannot wait🙌
I‘m pretty lucky it‘s not the crankshaft or the engine block😁👍🏽 These parts will be replaced and I‘ll do my best to share an update asap. Thanks for viewing😀
Anyone rebuilding a yanmar should be following this! The info and the details are spot on, love your work bruv!
Thanks man! I hope these videos will help many Yanmar owners out there. I‘m glad you like this type of content and I’ll always try my best to provide enough information. More to come 😃🤙🏽 Cheers
Speaking as a retired LAME with many hrs rebuilding Lycoming Aircraft motors, this is a very good inspection video.
The question of bore/piston wear combined with the oil pump wear leads me to the journals as you also indicated the lip on them, with associated big end bearing scouring.
I see a situation that this motors oil pump would fail under high loading, disrupting the oil pressure to the bearings, and giving the motor a clear big end bearing "rattle" when over 2,700 rpm.
It was close to complete failure, and a rebore, oversized pistons and new oil pump, sump extension, etc obviously necessary.
This motor was assembled very poorly, the welded section of the sump extension is actually a shocking example of an obviously
shocking repair, with the broken section most likely caused by the partially stripped motor being dropped onto the floor, and that end breaking right off.
It was clearly reassembled on the cheap, and in a great hurry.
You NEVER HAMMER ALI, but lightly tap a soft block of wood in the middle, that has been laid over the entire part so that even, light pressure is applied.
If you are tapping it harder than you would hit your finger with a hammer, then you are tapping it too hard.
Personally, I would throw away the valves and seat new valves in, simply due to saving the chances of one being too close to minimum tolerances and splitting, breaking, jamming, and then snapping the valve with the associated piston/bore damage that would result.
What did the crack testing around the valve seats and the big end bearing crankcase area show ?
Piston "wobble" usually causes cracks in both these areas, with the valves actually also getting some sideways movement putting extra pressure on the head of the chamber.
There were many cylinders that we found this damage to, which Aviation Laws prevented repairs being made, and we were required to break off the valve stands with a hammer, rendering the cylinder useless.
All reassembled engines should be fully "run in" prior to instillation, with a correct high ISO Bedding Oil, and then secondary compression checks done.
Always cut open the internal filter element to check for any metal wear when changing oil/fuel filters.
And always friction proof your new engine with a good viscosity additive such as Wynns, etc.
I always use additives for engine flush, motor & transmission & diff oils, and every full tank of gas.
It gives me a friction proofed motor and box, and very, very stable compressions with high mpg.
( as well as a very long engine life )
These same oils were used in the aviation industry, and are worth every single cent.
I get 30% more out of every gallon of gas than anyone who is not using them.
Excellent autopsy and failure analysis; your videos are always a pleasure to watch.
It's rewarding to hear that you're enjoying the videos I share! Instead of just rebuilding this engine without any context, I think it's important for everyone to understand the flaws that must be addressed before the assembly process. After the flaws are sorted out, it's just a matter of patience and getting all parts lined up correctly. Thank you for viewing and leaving a comment! Your support helps a lot!! Regards Andreas
Love your channel! I have a John Deere 430 with the Yanmar diesel engine. For the life of me, I can’t get it to run. Seems like the injection pump isn’t pumping enough fuel. I was hesitant to take the entire engine out to see what’s wrong but now I can see these engines are pretty simple and will probably do a complete rebuild thanks to your videos. Thanks so much!!
Hello Curt, thanks for tuning in and sharing your feedback!!😃👍🏽
Not pumping enough fuel could be something as simple as a clogged or old fuel filter.
If you really think it‘s your injection pump, you could always remove the hard-lines and turn them 180degrees. Put the ends into 3 plastic bottles and see if you have the same amount of fuel in all of them, after a couple of revolutions.
If you still don‘t have fuel, then you probably have an issue on the inside of the pump...
Let me know what you find out, I‘d be interested to know what happened.
Yanmar has a very good system in place when it comes to engine-families. Almost all 3-cylinder engines are identical, but you‘ll find different bore & stroke sizes. This makes it much easier for Yanmar to produce their products and it must cut down a lot of costs too😁
Thanks for leaving a comment, I appreciate it! Regards Andreas
An easy mistake to damage the oil pan spacer. Bolt to the block not the spacer. The end of the oil pan spacer can be broken if an engine stand is attached to the flywheel side spacer end bolt holes with the oil pan facing upward. As the oil pan bolts are removed the spacer also separates from the block on the stand end and transfers the hanging engine weight to the remaining spacer bolts on the opposite end of the engine. Snap!
who knew that a lawn mower could have so many issues
More than I expected and this is just the engine😁 We‘ll see what else has to be repaired or replaced later on!
I got a yanmar with 3800 hrs I have owed from new and another one with 1500 no problems with either
3800 hours for a small engine is amazing! You must take good care of your engines and it just shows how regular maintenance prolongs the lifespan of an engine.
The previous owners of my equipment didn‘t really consider that, but on the other hand it‘s pretty good for me!😁👍🏽
Thanks for sharing your experience, John!
How was the oil when you drained it? Any grit or glitter? I'm wondering if the welded intermediate pan is connected to the other issues. Maybe the engine was damaged in an accident and was run with contamination in the oil? Worn valves, scored pistons & bores, welded pan and a replaced fuel pump are a lot of issues with such low hours. Also the edges on the crank journal holes are very strange - like someone enlarged the holes but didn't finish the job. Could there be one event that ties everything together?
When I drained the oil I didn't notice any abnormal. The oil was black, but there were no noticeable pieces of metal, nor was there any glitter! It's really weird, because the oil pan extension is the only thing that is damaged and to break that would be really hard to do inside of the machine. there is a metal plate beneath the engine and other components around it.
It almost seems as if someone removed this engine and dropped it, or damaged the oil pan extension when it was removed...but that would be really hard to do!
That's exactly what I thought! The JD 1445 only has 1000hours on a digital hour meter and it doesn't look beat up. It's really only the engine that I have to work on and maybe I will have to replace a seal here or there.
The crank journals measure to the original specifications which means there chamfers could be from the factory like this...but that's hard to believe because chamfers are usually done before journals are ground.
You're right, someone was working on this engine and they didn't finish the job. On top of that, they assembled it very poorly with A LOT of silicone. I'll see what engine kits are out there and I'll try my best to bring this engine back to life.
Thanks for sharing your questions and thoughts about this situation, John! Regards Andreas
I would like to say thank you so much for sharing this Video,Sir...
Anyway,Would you like to share the video on"How the way to replace the engine oil,oil filter,fuel filter and also how to totally replace water/coolant radiator for the YANMAR 3TNV82A Diesel Engine ?
once again thank you so much inadvance,Sir.
Hi there. Unfortunately, since I rebuild this engine it is not in need of a service right away. I can do a video like this in the future, but it probably won't be specifically about the Yanmar 3TNV82A engine. I'll keep this in mind for a future video, thank you for asking. Regards Andreas
Allright,I`ll be waiting for your future video about it,Sir ! Thank you so much.@@WorkshopRebuild
I appreciate it and you're always welcome! Regards Andreas
My pleasure,Sir .@@WorkshopRebuild
So, what was the condition that led to the decision to rebuild the engine?
Lack of compression, unusual oil consumption, high operating temperature, or ...?
This engine was in a commercial unit ( ruclips.net/video/BU0aOkDjeG8/видео.html ) and it was sold at auction with engine damage. I decided to take it apart, because it did not look good from the outside...especially with so much silicone along each seam. I figured out it had similar wear to the Yanmar 3TN75RJ I previously rebuilt, after just 1000 engine hours! This must have been from diluted oil (oil+fuel), hot operating temperatures (led to premature cylinder wear) and bad engine components in general.
This is another reason why I prefer to take engines apart before trying to start them or even turning them over by hand with a breaker bar. This engine will be rebuilt and hopefully it will runs much better after that. Thank yo for your great question! Regards Andreas
Random quesiont! If one of these engines runs away - how can you shut it down quickly? Is there any easy trick to kill the intake air somehow?
I‘ve never had to hurry and stop a diesel engine from a „Run-Away“ situation, but I have heard you must react fast with a flat board or cardboard to block off the air intake. This is the only way you can eliminate major failure.
It‘s always good to know if it ever happens, but let‘s hope it doesn‘t! Regards Andreas
how many hours yamr engines are usually bullet proof
Hi John, this Yanmar engine came out of my newest project, the John Deere 1445 and it has ~1100 on the digital hour meter.
It must be the original meter since the machine is in great condition, but the engine needs a lot of work. Nevertheless, I ordered parts and I‘ll have an engine assembly video very soon. What Yanmar engines have you been dealing with in the past?
it seems like everything is scored
That is correct! I‘ll most likely need a full engine rebuild kit and this will have to go to the machine shop. Nevertheless, I believe this engine will run sooner than later😎
Hello! when will there be a continuation of the 3 tnv 82a engine?
Hello! New parts are on the way and once they arrive I‘ll share an update video. Right after that this engine block will be sent to the machine shop and I‘ll get ready for an engine rebuild!
If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask now. Maybe I can answer them in the videos😃👍🏽
Thanks for your question!
there are questions! can you help with the search for the head of the cylinder block, because it is not available in Ukraine.
@@user-uy2dc9jv1t Hello. I just ordered many parts for this engine from (www.fridayparts.com/). I did not see a cylinder head for this engine in their parts search, but you should write them an email! They can source many parts, even those that are not listed. If you mention my RUclips name, you may even get a better deal.
I hope this helps! If you have any further questions, write me an email (my email is in the description of this video). Regards Andreas
Thanks
This 3TNV82A is same with 3TNE82E ?
I cannot give you details on this. Reach out to Yanmar and ask them. Regards Andreas