I like the rigid pipe cast iron pipe cutters, never had a problem with it breaking the pipe or crumbling it except when the pipe was totally wasted, and once it is set up, it snaps the pipe in less than 30 seconds. Everyone has their preferences, but that one is mine. Thanks for making the video, never get tired of seeing how others do this type of work.
Guys like you are worth their weight in gold. I use a good penetrating oil before scoring in grooves. It saves the cutting wheels. Nice touch using the ratchet strap. For thirty years I thought that was my secret.
Steve, you are a hero to some of us, that have to work on old crappy rusty horrible (scary) plumbing. I rarely see videos and definitely NO TV shows brave enough to show the nasty work you start with. They usually have clean decent work that anyone would give a try to. I have a cleanout plug in my parents house that I'd like to take put, but I don't wanna deal with the threads on ancient cast iron, I'm sure it's all destroyed and I'll have to cut it out. Lots of people don't see the headache of some of this work. You do a great job
You also can place a friction ring clamp around the stack vent pipe if you have access to the attic . This will help to support the weight of the cast iron pipe against the attic floor joists .
Every time I watch Steve replace some cast iron pipe, I am always reminded of this video titled "New House Plumbing: "Once and Forever" 1956 Cast Iron Soil Pipe Institute" where they are extolling the virtues of cast iron pipes. They never wear out, fail, or fall apart like the other leading brand. Until they do. hahaha. Then again I was reading about "orangeburg" pipe which is drain pipe made out of wood fibers and tar! I guess against that "competition" it would seem to last forever. Great vid like always!
The nature of such pipe requires the lower portions to carry the most load of whatever pipe is above, especially at the bends. I think if this wasn't taken much into consideration during construction, they will eventually rot out at the points with the most stress.
My house was built in 1956 and still has the original cast iron pipes. I found out about that when the one under my shower in my only bathroom busted. They are estimating it to cost over $4000 which I don’t have thanks to Covid. Plus they don’t take payments either, so I’m screwed.
We ALWAYS replace the 4" cast iron with new cast iron and along with No Hub Bands and if it goes all the way to the stack base in the basement floor, we lead a joint in. The only thing we replace with PVC are the drain lines. Same thing for the closet flange, we ALWAYS replace with another cast iron flange and lead it in. Always. I'm proud of this.
@@VinylToVideo a cast stack is always quieter than PVC. With plastic, you can hear the flow every time someone flushes a toilet upstairs. The only lead joints we pour are at the stack base and the toilet flange, if it is being replaced. The rest is all Ferncos and No Hub Bands.
@@BaconJD420 Poor guy, its like the fourth or fifth time you posted this. But nobody cares to even reply. I suppose YOU also have a channel? That seems to be the script. People slide in with a comment like yours, repeatedly, and still telling the OP they are fan while trying to throw shade. He has done this for over 30-years and has 8-years worth of videos to prove his worth.
Interesting video. I liked the way you anticipated the collapse of the vent and you used a strap to support the weight. If I were the owner, I would have asked you to change it all to plastic. Years ago, I did one in and old house and used Oakum and a plastic mix rather than lead. If I had a friend called Steve Lavimoniere, I could have done it like a pro.
James Campbell that’s what I was just thinking. But I’m only half way thru the vid. Steve will know what it needs. I wouldn’t fuck with this old shit. I’m not a plumber but I do have a handyman business. I just know when to fold em, I know when to tell the customer to call a specific trade for a repair. And this would definitely fall into that category. I know a lot about plumbing repairs in single family dwellings that were built in this fucking century lol. this place probably isn’t too old but Steve works on some old ass shit sometimes. It’s that old shit that you really have to know what to do with. He’s been doing this so long and is probably not just a first generation plumber. He knows his shite mang.
It’s not gonna crash down but will slowly move down a bit a half inch or so and separate the seam line between vent stack and the roof and cause a roof leak. Before cutting old cast iron install a pipe press against a 2x4 or 2x6 so the pipe doesn’t drop. Across my years or construction seen it few times. ALWAYS SUPPORT VENT STACK PERMANENTLY BEFORE CUTTING IT! (FYI) a cast iron nohub pipe 8’ long weighs 108lbs
Bell and spigot pipe with lead and oakum used in early construction. I doubt it is still used these days. Now we use only hubless with nohub huskie couplings in NYC. Good job though on the connection from cast iron to pvc
@@moefletcher Apparently Chicago code still required cast iron drain pipes thanks to the unions' insistence. It is really a lost art. Anyone can glue together some PVC pipe but not many will want to attempt to melt, pour, and pound on lead.
@@moefletcher good call! I agree completely. All that weight of the beastly cast iron. Definitely needs a permanent brace/bracket above the cut. I think the stack slid down a tiny bit when he pulled the piece of wood out
This is awesome. You seem real professional and a good hire. I wish you lived near me. I have that crap in my house and a 45 must be rust bound because it drains like a 1/2 in orifice. Been comtemplating boring a hole in the straight piece so I can get a snake or rod in there to clean it.
I still have my inner and outer lead packing tools my plumber gave me when I was an apprentice. I've used them once in twenty years on a historical building that had 5" pack and pour C.I.
I have all the caulking tools as well. I use them all the time. I'd rather pour a joint than use a service weight donut. When I have to adapt to plastic I use a manoff fitting.
Was interested to know if this was a two story house? I am a retired HVAC/plumber and have done some vent stack change outs myself. For customers with two story houses we would go back with iron if the repair was higher then the basement for sound problems created by the PVC.
You know, I have experience where the old stack fell on me from above floor when I cut out the section of it. the 3 meter piece unhooked from the toilet tee and it fell from its own weight, and injured my arm.. not fun, it is extremely important to properly hold the pipe before cutting a section of it!
Love watching Steve your sayings and added words are often funny. Im here in Brockton self employed plumber like you same age. I've done many of these before I always try to put a friction clamp or something when going from CI above to PVC below. I see it would have been hard for you to do this though. Julian Plumbing Brockton/
When I use my compact snap cutter I use my impact wrench instead of a rachet. Works faster and it makes a better cut. For me at least. More even pressure and faster. I also go back and forth to make score line in the cast as well.
Nice video! I got question though. Can you cut and replace part of the cast iron in between into ABS/PVC down the line? Example, leave the cast iron that is sticking out to the roof, then cut a part and replace into ABS or PVC down below then connect it the remaining cast iron further down below. The question is, will the ABS/PVC that you just replaced support the weight of the cast iron above? Thank you.
skoronesa I’ve done some plumbing remodeling in a old old frat house on university of Alabama campus and I seen a fitting that went from 4 inch cast to 2 inch cast and it was a reducer but it looked like a funnel. Nothing like our reducers today ..... we cut it out and I kept it because it was really weird looking
nice job steve... I would have changed all of it but that's just me hope that purple on purple was their daughters room.... catty of the wampus wiring over there!
Steve, how much weight in a vent stack is allowable to be supported by PVC? Would it be a good idea to install a permanent support clamp on the stack to help support the weight?
what I needed to see was how you put the clamps on....not all kind of time watching you cut two pipes. Do you use glue with the clamp> so, there is a rubber piece of something that goes around the two pipes, then clamp?
Steve-I measured 11 1/2" from the wall to the set bolts on the toilet I have , which size rough in should I purchase-I would like to get the best that you use which is a Gerber Viper.
Somebody's using their head and working SMART! The only thing you have to watch out for is that the sparks don't catch anything fire in the wall cavity.
@@10314347 Dummies working "smart" get hurt. In 50 years of seeing grinders every day I've seen quite a few REALLY nasty accidents including one death.
@@aaronhuffman4852 I don’t know if you have boss brand where you are at they sell it at my HVAC supplier here and you need the applicator gun which is reusable as long as you keep it cleaned out or install a new can when you have used one up just don’t leave the gun empty
Hey Steve, had a question just installed a goodman condenser and realize that it already had a liquid line filter installed on the inside is it OK to run 2 filter
Why you did not replaced the cast iron tee to be new plastic pipe on whole way down and later should be replaced cast iron elbow from toilet? Why to do so much connections with claps??
4:00 "I think I'm jacked. I might have to take another bite on it now that I got some cuts in it, you know?" Clueless homeowner reluctantly agreeing while worrying about the forthcoming $1200 bill. Heavy breathing for emphasis. Had me laughing after some beers.
Love that snap tool! I usually use a angle grinder but it gets iron smoke everywhere. What is the brand/ model of yours? I like how its compact and good for rusty old pipe.
Usually Extra-Heavy Cast Iron doesn't show this type of rot. That said, I would say 50 years is a reasonable number based on my experience replacing standard and extra heavy CI.
that 1 1/2" waste line for the lav. is not wet vented if its the top floor its stack vented if it a floor below top it is individual vented . a wet vet comes off a drain say a tub and also goes to lav drain , called a wet vent because it also acts as a drain min size is 2"
I like the rigid pipe cast iron pipe cutters, never had a problem with it breaking the pipe or crumbling it except when the pipe was totally wasted, and once it is set up, it snaps the pipe in less than 30 seconds. Everyone has their preferences, but that one is mine. Thanks for making the video, never get tired of seeing how others do this type of work.
Guys like you are worth their weight in gold. I use a good penetrating oil before scoring in grooves. It saves the cutting wheels. Nice touch using the ratchet strap. For thirty years I thought that was my secret.
I died at the "electrical wires just floating in the wind" part.
Steve, you are a hero to some of us, that have to work on old crappy rusty horrible (scary) plumbing. I rarely see videos and definitely NO TV shows brave enough to show the nasty work you start with. They usually have clean decent work that anyone would give a try to. I have a cleanout plug in my parents house that I'd like to take put, but I don't wanna deal with the threads on ancient cast iron, I'm sure it's all destroyed and I'll have to cut it out. Lots of people don't see the headache of some of this work. You do a great job
You also can place a friction ring clamp around the stack vent pipe if you have access to the attic . This will help to support the weight of the cast iron pipe against the attic floor joists .
Every time I watch Steve replace some cast iron pipe, I am always reminded of this video titled "New House Plumbing: "Once and Forever" 1956 Cast Iron Soil Pipe Institute" where they are extolling the virtues of cast iron pipes. They never wear out, fail, or fall apart like the other leading brand. Until they do. hahaha. Then again I was reading about "orangeburg" pipe which is drain pipe made out of wood fibers and tar! I guess against that "competition" it would seem to last forever. Great vid like always!
The nature of such pipe requires the lower portions to carry the most load of whatever pipe is above, especially at the bends. I think if this wasn't taken much into consideration during construction, they will eventually rot out at the points with the most stress.
My house was built in 1956 and still has the original cast iron pipes. I found out about that when the one under my shower in my only bathroom busted. They are estimating it to cost over $4000 which I don’t have thanks to Covid. Plus they don’t take payments either, so I’m screwed.
We ALWAYS replace the 4" cast iron with new cast iron and along with No Hub Bands and if it goes all the way to the stack base in the basement floor, we lead a joint in. The only thing we replace with PVC are the drain lines. Same thing for the closet flange, we ALWAYS replace with another cast iron flange and lead it in. Always. I'm proud of this.
Is it sealed with lead also? Seems to be a lost art. I believe Chicago code requires the use of cast iron drain pipes still, thanks to the unions.
@@VinylToVideo a cast stack is always quieter than PVC. With plastic, you can hear the flow every time someone flushes a toilet upstairs. The only lead joints we pour are at the stack base and the toilet flange, if it is being replaced. The rest is all Ferncos and No Hub Bands.
@@BaconJD420 Poor guy, its like the fourth or fifth time you posted this. But nobody cares to even reply. I suppose YOU also have a channel? That seems to be the script. People slide in with a comment like yours, repeatedly, and still telling the OP they are fan while trying to throw shade. He has done this for over 30-years and has 8-years worth of videos to prove his worth.
Interesting video. I liked the way you anticipated the collapse of the vent and you used a strap to support the weight. If I were the owner, I would have asked you to change it all to plastic. Years ago, I did one in and old house and used Oakum and a plastic mix rather than lead. If I had a friend called Steve Lavimoniere, I could have done it like a pro.
Steven is a hard working man .next level
Everyone notice how this seasoned professional double checks his work? That's one big reason why he's so good.
Measure once, cut twice
Nice recipe Steve. That sweep made the replacement tricky. You made it look easy!
Love that pipe snapper. I rented one for my FIY
project. I would like own one, but they are big bucks,
Momma!
Steve, not a easy one, thanks for showing how to brace well so when cut in situation like that, doesn't cause a injury.
That was not safe! They sell the proper clamps to brace the cast iron.
Riser clamps you can get them from depot
Preparation preparation preparation always better to think ahead before cutting great job Steve 👍
You make it look so easy....LOL. Great job Steve!
Love cast iron work, Thanks Steve!
for the upper brace - when removing - if it was truly needed when pulled off - wouldn't the upper stack weight crush down on the PVC?
James Campbell that’s what I was just thinking. But I’m only half way thru the vid. Steve will know what it needs. I wouldn’t fuck with this old shit. I’m not a plumber but I do have a handyman business. I just know when to fold em, I know when to tell the customer to call a specific trade for a repair. And this would definitely fall into that category. I know a lot about plumbing repairs in single family dwellings that were built in this fucking century lol. this place probably isn’t too old but Steve works on some old ass shit sometimes. It’s that old shit that you really have to know what to do with. He’s been doing this so long and is probably not just a first generation plumber. He knows his shite mang.
It’s not gonna crash down but will slowly move down a bit a half inch or so and separate the seam line between vent stack and the roof and cause a roof leak. Before cutting old cast iron install a pipe press against a 2x4 or 2x6 so the pipe doesn’t drop. Across my years or construction seen it few times. ALWAYS SUPPORT VENT STACK PERMANENTLY BEFORE CUTTING IT!
(FYI) a cast iron nohub pipe 8’ long weighs 108lbs
Bell and spigot pipe with lead and oakum used in early construction. I doubt it is still used these days. Now we use only hubless with nohub huskie couplings in NYC. Good job though on the connection from cast iron to pvc
@@moefletcher Apparently Chicago code still required cast iron drain pipes thanks to the unions' insistence. It is really a lost art. Anyone can glue together some PVC pipe but not many will want to attempt to melt, pour, and pound on lead.
@@moefletcher good call! I agree completely. All that weight of the beastly cast iron. Definitely needs a permanent brace/bracket above the cut. I think the stack slid down a tiny bit when he pulled the piece of wood out
Thanks for the video Steven! I got an education on cast pipe repair!!!
This is awesome. You seem real professional and a good hire. I wish you lived near me. I have that crap in my house and a 45 must be rust bound because it drains like a 1/2 in orifice. Been comtemplating boring a hole in the straight piece so I can get a snake or rod in there to clean it.
I still have my inner and outer lead packing tools my plumber gave me when I was an apprentice. I've used them once in twenty years on a historical building that had 5" pack and pour C.I.
I have all the caulking tools as well. I use them all the time. I'd rather pour a joint than use a service weight donut. When I have to adapt to plastic I use a manoff fitting.
Was interested to know if this was a two story house? I am a retired HVAC/plumber and have done some vent stack change outs myself. For customers with two story houses we would go back with iron if the repair was higher then the basement for sound problems created by the PVC.
You know, I have experience where the old stack fell on me from above floor when I cut out the section of it. the 3 meter piece unhooked from the toilet tee and it fell from its own weight, and injured my arm.. not fun, it is extremely important to properly hold the pipe before cutting a section of it!
Vytautas Poška yeah that’ll happen. Gravity spares nobody
Is the stack supported up through to roof? a lot of weight of pipe going to the roof. I am getting ready to do repairs.
nice job plumber you taught me something i never thought to roll the snapper (pipe cutter) for a much cleaner cut plumb on brother 👍
Yeah but he's ruining his cutting wheels by doing this................
Love watching Steve your sayings and added words are often funny. Im here in Brockton self employed plumber like you same age. I've done many of these before I always try to put a friction clamp or something when going from CI above to PVC below. I see it would have been hard for you to do this though. Julian Plumbing Brockton/
A nice fix there Steve, that was some chunky old pipe!
Good repair, Steven. Don't forget to show us how you get the lead out of the pipe.
just smash the hub with a big sledge hammer ,,cast iron will break apart and take the lead out .
When I use my compact snap cutter I use my impact wrench instead of a rachet. Works faster and it makes a better cut. For me at least. More even pressure and faster.
I also go back and forth to make score line in the cast as well.
Nice video! I got question though. Can you cut and replace part of the cast iron in between into ABS/PVC down the line? Example, leave the cast iron that is sticking out to the roof, then cut a part and replace into ABS or PVC down below then connect it the remaining cast iron further down below. The question is, will the ABS/PVC that you just replaced support the weight of the cast iron above? Thank you.
I ain't seen a cast iron offset like that before, pretty cool.
skoronesa I’ve done some plumbing remodeling in a old old frat house on university of Alabama campus and I seen a fitting that went from 4 inch cast to 2 inch cast and it was a reducer but it looked like a funnel. Nothing like our reducers today ..... we cut it out and I kept it because it was really weird looking
Try the Diablo cast iron blade, that blade will go thru cast like butta
Diablo blade is the way to go!
Absolutely the way to go! Worth every penny
How come you don’t use a transitional band cast-iron to PVC
nice job steve... I would have changed all of it but that's just me hope that purple on purple was their daughters room.... catty of the wampus wiring over there!
Mom Steve is working again. Next level baby next level.. great video Steve.
if the stack falls down it will grow back, right?
Steve, how much weight in a vent stack is allowable to be supported by PVC? Would it be a good idea to install a permanent support clamp on the stack to help support the weight?
Art Houston great question
Marcos araujo We Install a clamp under the cast iron hub and secure it to the brick or wedge a 2x4 under the clamp.
@@BaconJD420 I'm curious it it would pass if the stack was 3" copper. Could you replace the cast below the copper with PVC and a fernco?
Very nice Steve.. but question!! In Massachusetts they allow to connect pvc between a vertical cast iron stack..
That's a hell of an arm workout, next level.
Look at his forearms lol, old men that do manual labor are usually strong asl
Is it difficult to make the repair at a joint. So I guess you would melt the lead and then put a PVC connection with the rubber boot?
Thanks for the video Steve that was a tricky one
Thanks for the vid. At what point do you hit the ratchet the the soil pipe cutter?
what I needed to see was how you put the clamps on....not all kind of time watching you cut two pipes.
Do you use glue with the clamp>
so, there is a rubber piece of something that goes around the two pipes, then clamp?
The clamp has rubber inside it to make the seal, yes.
mine is starting to leak at way bottom almost into floor how can ya fix that
What snap cutter is that? Mine doesn't hsve a spot for a rachet. nice work.
Do they not require you to use no hub adapters in between pvc and no hub coupling?
Why didnt you go down another 2ft to the other repaired/replaced section? Just wondering
Are you kidding? There was a whole other 4 inch drain line he would've had to tie in. He's trying to fix a leak not repipe the whole house.
No, their was a 4" sanitary tee and some pipe left. Would've been so easy.
Les saluda desde chile un humilde y honesto maestro gasfiter Dios los bendiga
how can the pvc pipe hold the caster iron pipe without damages?
q0987 that’s my question too.. I’m leaving in MAss and I never see connect pvc between cast iron on vertical stack, different material.
@@bormorzx we do it all the time in Philly, We Install a clamp under the cast iron hub and secure it to the brick or wedge a 2x4 under the clamp.
Steve-I measured 11 1/2" from the wall to the set bolts on the toilet I have , which size rough in should I purchase-I would like to get the best that you use which is a Gerber Viper.
What is a wet vent is the drain for the sink in this case?
Do you know how to fix a small hollow in a cast-iron kitchen sink?
Great work. How much should a plumber be charging for a job like this one ?
I used a grinder to cut through mine. Worked like a champ
Somebody's using their head and working SMART! The only thing you have to watch out for is that the sparks don't catch anything fire in the wall cavity.
Marko Grishan they didn’t
@@10314347 Dummies working "smart" get hurt. In 50 years of seeing grinders every day I've seen quite a few REALLY nasty accidents including one death.
I don't get it. How is the O.D. of the PVC and service weight cast iron the same? I don't see distortion in the S.S. band
No fire foam between floors ? Would help to fill the void and help prevent a wall fire
Foam will burn too.
@@aaronhuffman4852
Boss makes a fire resistant foam
@@FredD63 oh ok. Wow I didn’t know they made the foam. I always put rock wool in those gaps.
@@aaronhuffman4852
I don’t know if you have boss brand where you are at they sell it at my HVAC supplier here and you need the applicator gun which is reusable as long as you keep it cleaned out or install a new can when you have used one up just don’t leave the gun empty
Nice repair, baby looks happy!
Nice job Steve with lots of good tech tips! Thx!
Love your videos .brother ..
Nice to see the baby dog man.
did you have to grind that little lip on the old cast iron to get the rubber coupler to seal? cause I have that lip as well and cant get it to seal
That was textbook 100% and the baby dog is working again y'all peace brother
I kept watching only cause I liked the accent.
tell me the make and model of that vacuum so I know never to buy it.
pdemail18 lol
That vacuum sucks.
Hey Steve, had a question just installed a goodman condenser and realize that it already had a liquid line filter installed on the inside is it OK to run 2 filter
I have the same pos snapper, works great just not on 4 inch, could have been better engineered
Another fine job
Will the wheeler cutter cut black iron on just cast iron?
just cast iron
Why you did not replaced the cast iron tee to be new plastic pipe on whole way down and later should be replaced cast iron elbow from toilet? Why to do so much connections with claps??
Have you ever had to wipe a lead joint before?
Great job
I always use the 4-band no-hubs.
4:00 "I think I'm jacked. I might have to take another bite on it now that I got some cuts in it, you know?" Clueless homeowner reluctantly agreeing while worrying about the forthcoming $1200 bill. Heavy breathing for emphasis. Had me laughing after some beers.
madcow usa glad that made you laugh, not everyone can afford that
Seen a couple cast iron vertical collapse because guys to lazy to brace. Good point out in this video.
at 12:54 is that sink less than 5' from the stack ... if so, is there no requirement for a air vent? code thing ... can't recall the rule ...
I like the bracing idea but why leave the cast, you've already got the wall open and done half the work lol
Don't call me LOL.
Does sewer gas make these pipes rot faster?
True professional! The dislikes came from other plumbers mad cause he’s teaching.
Clean work buddy
No PVC to CI no-hub adapter Steve?
nice work!
What is that tool called? I hate cast iron
Love that snap tool! I usually use a angle grinder but it gets iron smoke everywhere. What is the brand/ model of yours? I like how its compact and good for rusty old pipe.
What is the tool called? The one u used to cut the iron pipe.
Snap cutter
How much similar repair costs?
What was the price of that repair
Enough to be profitable
How many years does cast iron last before you start seeing issues like this?
Usually Extra-Heavy Cast Iron doesn't show this type of rot. That said, I would say 50 years is a reasonable number based on my experience replacing standard and extra heavy CI.
How much can cost a job like this ?
I wouldn't charge less than 750.00 for that job...
that 1 1/2" waste line for the lav. is not wet vented if its the top floor its stack vented if it a floor below top it is individual vented . a wet vet comes off a drain say a tub and also goes to lav drain , called a wet vent because it also acts as a drain min size is 2"
nice job steve
That’s a job for a professional. Nice work Steve.
Amazing work & video!
Good job
i wouldnt leave the cast iron vent at the top when a lot off weight is pressing down onto plastic piece in the middle
I agree - definitely would have got a friction clamp worked in there somehow
Good job👍
Steve also offers maid service ... Lol ... Cleans up after his self ...Good vid ...
Nice job 👍👍👍
If you’re going to date your work why not give it the ole Johnny Hancock too? Might make those pipes worth something in the future!
steve lav hovering again yaall
Steve. Great work. Love watching ya.... why do you wear gloves😂😂😂🤣😂