Oh, that hurts! I hate it when I cause extra work and expense because I skipping something I knew I should have done! Glad you have it fixed now. 🤞it all works as it should the next time! I use the kind of pressure switch with an extra switch (and a manual lever). If the pressure is too low the switch shuts off the pump, but as long as pressure stays in the normal low-high range it operates just as a normal pressure switch. This works with or without a pressure tank. The only disadvantage is needing to hold that lever to start the pump if the pressure ever goes too low.
Why not use a float switch like on a sump pump to detect if there is enough water to run the pump? The box box store sells them alone without the pump.
Thanks! My well is old and the concrete rings (I think) would make mounting any float system there a challenge. The relay is right beside the pump so it just seemed an easier solution.
Just curious how do you reprime the pump without it triggering the dry setting? For instance my pump I sometimes have to run is several times and fill it up to get it to reprime. I have a shallow well pump but just for sprinklers. I have added a 30" long vertical pipe with a ball valve on the inlet side of my pump and can usually prime it pretty quickly now but still it usually have to let it run for a minute or more, top it back off, and run it aging, repeat this 3 to 5 times. How long does it stay on before cutting out when it detects its dry?
First off, I like your videos. This is an interesting problem as a low pressure cutoff switch has worked great here for many, many years. What is the elevation difference between the pumphouse and the garden? I calculate that a 58 ft difference would produce 26 psi so no water would flow at 26 psi or below. If no water flows then the pressure will not drop any lower and the low pressure cutoff will not be trigered. I am unsure if that pressure can be adjusted and even if it could there would be a fine line as the pump cuts in at 30. The other thing I have seen happen is rust and debris in the diaphram of the switch or the pipe going to the switch causing it to not work properly. It looks like your solution will work but it seems those relays are unavailale right now. I don't need one but was curious about the price. That pump is not meant to run without a tank. Don't do it. It made me cringe.
Why not buy a new pump to mount inside the well that have a build in waterlevel and pressure switch. You just mount it to a chain or wire in the right hight from the buttom of the well and connect the hose. No more priming any pumps or shut off switch as everything is build in. As soon as you open the hose some where it starts the pump. You can even get it with a timer build in so it starts by it self.
I have that type of pump. The flexible pipe to the pump perish and broke, that caused the submersible pump to lean over slightly, that prevented the float-level from working properly, and all that caused the pump to burn out. Having an additional power-sensor would provide additional insurance. Hadn't considered it, until now, but I suspect I could use the type of smart plug that has "power consumption" logging and use that to turn the pump off [when power consumption is abnormal] (and notify me that it has happened :) )
Well, *THAT* is certainly going to need a safety shut off set-up scheme. Would not a flow-detecting shut-off valve work?, no flow, no go, with an intermittent test-&-verify start-up (or not) set-up?. (Mitigating the over-heating scenario) - not sure about the resultant cavitation tho~ 🧐🥴
i didn't know a relay like that existed. thanks for the knowledge.
Your welcome! I did not either. And, I do think it's the right solution. Correct the problem right at the pump.
Finally getting the pump to cycle off at the right time has to feel good. Thank you for the update and have a Merry Christmas Day.
Thanks, you too! And yes, it was quite a relief to have solved this issue.
Oh, that hurts! I hate it when I cause extra work and expense because I skipping something I knew I should have done!
Glad you have it fixed now. 🤞it all works as it should the next time!
I use the kind of pressure switch with an extra switch (and a manual lever). If the pressure is too low the switch shuts off the pump, but as long as pressure stays in the normal low-high range it operates just as a normal pressure switch. This works with or without a pressure tank. The only disadvantage is needing to hold that lever to start the pump if the pressure ever goes too low.
Kent, I did mention in the last video that the best solution was to have Max watch the pump in exchange for some noms
Very cool. Nicely done
Time to dig the well deeper.
Why not use a float switch like on a sump pump to detect if there is enough water to run the pump? The box box store sells them alone without the pump.
Looks like every time the pump runs dry he will have to prime and reset .
With a properly adjusted float switch and foot valve , problem solved .
He did mention on the last video that it'd be a pain to do. But, there are noncontact ways like ultrasonic or radar that can sense water level.
@@jimharmon2300 absolutely. The pump would never run dry.
@@misterhat5823
Some times the simplest ways are the best ways .
Thanks! My well is old and the concrete rings (I think) would make mounting any float system there a challenge. The relay is right beside the pump so it just seemed an easier solution.
Just curious how do you reprime the pump without it triggering the dry setting? For instance my pump I sometimes have to run is several times and fill it up to get it to reprime. I have a shallow well pump but just for sprinklers. I have added a 30" long vertical pipe with a ball valve on the inlet side of my pump and can usually prime it pretty quickly now but still it usually have to let it run for a minute or more, top it back off, and run it aging, repeat this 3 to 5 times. How long does it stay on before cutting out when it detects its dry?
First off, I like your videos. This is an interesting problem as a low pressure cutoff switch has worked great here for many, many years. What is the elevation difference between the pumphouse and the garden? I calculate that a 58 ft difference would produce 26 psi so no water would flow at 26 psi or below. If no water flows then the pressure will not drop any lower and the low pressure cutoff will not be trigered. I am unsure if that pressure can be adjusted and even if it could there would be a fine line as the pump cuts in at 30. The other thing I have seen happen is rust and debris in the diaphram of the switch or the pipe going to the switch causing it to not work properly. It looks like your solution will work but it seems those relays are unavailale right now. I don't need one but was curious about the price. That pump is not meant to run without a tank. Don't do it. It made me cringe.
That is funny how you try to use second hand clues instead of directly measuring the water in the well.
Why not buy a new pump to mount inside the well that have a build in waterlevel and pressure switch. You just mount it to a chain or wire in the right hight from the buttom of the well and connect the hose. No more priming any pumps or shut off switch as everything is build in. As soon as you open the hose some where it starts the pump. You can even get it with a timer build in so it starts by it self.
I have that type of pump. The flexible pipe to the pump perish and broke, that caused the submersible pump to lean over slightly, that prevented the float-level from working properly, and all that caused the pump to burn out. Having an additional power-sensor would provide additional insurance. Hadn't considered it, until now, but I suspect I could use the type of smart plug that has "power consumption" logging and use that to turn the pump off [when power consumption is abnormal] (and notify me that it has happened :) )
In this setup, priming each time is an hassle!
Looks like the thermostat is on the motor instead of the pump. The motor won't get warm as the pump runs dry because the load gets lower.
I learned that lesson later unfortunately.
Well, *THAT* is certainly going to need a safety shut off set-up scheme.
Would not a flow-detecting shut-off valve work?, no flow, no go, with an intermittent test-&-verify start-up (or not) set-up?. (Mitigating the over-heating scenario) - not sure about the resultant cavitation tho~ 🧐🥴
Essentially that's what he has now. Low flow equals low current and it turns off.
Гидроаккамулятор надо накачать. И не будет гидроударов.