Man I gotta tell ya, I watched a crap ton of your videos, spent damn near $1800 on products, followed your instructions step by step without any shortcuts, and my new/used 2018 Rinker 260 EC literally looks brand new inside and out. I wanted to say thank you. 👊🇺🇸
Man I’ve shared your very first engine cleaning video with everyone on my pier… that’s just how long I’ve been following you and using your TTPs (Tip, Tactics and Techniques) Thanks
I started my boat detailing business in Pittsburgh Pa by watching and learning from your videos. You are a living legend! Your videos are real life and that's what makes you stand out. Keep up the good work, it must feel great to be helping so so many people out. I can't keep up with all the work I have and boat owners know if they have me detailing their boat it's gonna turn out the best it possibly can and I ultimately have you to blame lol....I mean thank. Thank you so so much for being so willing to share your top notch knowledge and experience. Oh I also remember in a video you made a while back that when you said something like this.... "I'm not trying to be better than the next guy, I'm trying to be better than myself day after day". I think about that comment everyday that I can and I can't agree with you more. Thanks again Drake you are da man! And I love these F'n boats too lol
Watching from Long Island NY. Just started my own company started off at a diving marine service company branched into detailing. Your videos have been clutch.
Been watching your videos for years. Learned a lot. I have a 31ft Tiara and have compounded, polished, and ceramic coated it. The non-skid on a Tiara is pretty sharp. I haven't tried to detail it. Do you detail nonskid like what Tiaras' have ?Seems to me it will chew up the pads ! Let me know your thoughts.
Drake, thanks so much for this. I have just started restoration on my 45' SeaRay fly. Compound, polish 2x and then sealant. I have just about finished the compound step on one side below the rub rail only, and I really appreciated your comments about not extending your arms. While I was getting great results on my compounding, I was extending my arms too much and getting what I call "fly-outs". I'll keep my arms in now and move the body. Also, I will be ditching the extended handle off of my Dewalt rotary, and just grip the motor end (like what I see you doing) for hopefully a bit more control. Finally, I am located in Canada and I could not find any shine supply distribution up here. And exchange rate + import duties would have been killer for sure. I had already found a Starke distribution point, so am using their products, (so a bit slower compound speeds). Thanks again,
Hey Drake, just want to thank you for your videos. I’ve been detailing my personal 2004 21.2 Rinker captiva since the day I purchased it from the dealer. My wife of 38 years and I just purchased a 2006 Formula 37 pc last year and I have been watching your videos to help us in getting both are boats looking like showroom condition. I have purchased some of your products through shine supply which I received yesterday and am looking forward to using them. I’m happy to tell you that just from watching your videos I have picked up some really good techniques on polishing the proper way. Trusting the process is absolutely the standard. Oh by the way, I really appreciate your story. My 1 question: when your cutting on non skid and you getting around your bow rail anchor points and any metal that you come in contact with transfers on to the gel coat and non skid. What do you do with that to keep from happening? Thanks for all you do for boat owners and Detailers. God bless you and your crew.
Hey bro! Thanks so much for following and for your support! It means a lot to us! It really helps a few tape off your metal cleats, stanchions, etc. so that the world does not make contact with the metal and transfer the black marks into the gelcoat.
That’s correct! Sometimes using the same compound with two different pads will help get the effect of using a heavier compound, and you don’t want to use too thick of a compound in the nonskid, or just gets caked up. That’s why we use a sinner less heavy cut compound, with two different pads. The first pad makes that same compound go heavier, and the second pad makes that same compound go lighter.
@thearr08 I have been in paint and body for the last 30 years and done my fair share of buffing I have used only a rotary buffer period. I have never seen anyone use a orbital except for applying a glaze or wax. I even did my own boat the same way but if the orbital buffer is a better option and cuts down on time then I'm in because I'm doing my aunts 30ft searay here real soon before they store it for the winter.
@@jeffbryner5355 Oh, makes sense. Thank you for the response. Do you know anything about microfiber and foam pad? If so, I was wondering how you clean them, because I assume a spur which you use to clean wool pads would be too rough to use on a foam or microfiber pad, but maybe not.
You’re the best man. So informative. For someone who is thinking about starting up a seasonal detailing business for the first time. Do you recommend staying under a certain boat footage if working solo? I have past experience in boat detailing but have never done the job by myself and also haven’t been in the business in years. Any advice is appreciated man. Keep up the awesome content.
I appreciate that! As far as size, I really wouldn’t try to tackle much more than a 45 foot boat by yourself, even 45 can see a little daunting for a first time by themselves
Good morning. Quick question. Ran out of Shift soap. My order should be here Monday. Have a detail tomorrow on Saturday. You recommend anything from the parts house? Thank you in advance.
Drake I have been watching your videos for the last few months trying to get caught up on. It has helped me tremendously on my ability to detail my boat! Thank you! By the way where do you get your buffer pads at?
Love all the information you give in all of your videos! I have one question for you. I live in the Chicagoland area and want to know what’s the best outside temperature to do your buffing and polishing? Can I polish below 60° outside?
Hey bro! Thanks! Anything below 45-50ish would be tougher for the compound to work properly, you can still do it, but you’ll just be working a lot harder haha
I just received that Makita buffer. Any reason you use it without the handles? My boat is on the water in a slip on the lift. I put the U handle on mine as give me something to hold on to a little more securely, but I havent used it yet.
Yes, absolutely it would last longer- given its installed correctly, and maintained properly. I don’t really use star products anymore, every once in a blue moon. I use mainly shine supply products now.
For sure! They both have their places. I like running the double sided ones on angles, and in and out of stainless fittings. The flat ones are good if you were just doing a long-haul side and don’t have to worry about hitting anything else.
Long time viewer, love all the experience and knowledge you bring!! 🙏 I got a question for ya I have a boat that is 2 years old, was professionally ceram coated in factory. Last year, being under warranty the dealership stored and waxed the boat-which waxing part was never actually done 😠 My question to you is, do you recommend I wash with a ph balanced soap before detailing and polishing with the powerlock+ or should I do a dilution of dawn soap?
I bought a bass boat that someone sprayed with automotive clearcoat and it's half flaked off, the gelcoat is oxidized where it's gone. any thoughts on the best way to remove the rest of the clearcoat?
Hey bro! I don’t currently have a direct link for the pad cleaning spray right this second, but here’s an Amazon link where you can buy one😎 www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-Polishing-Cleaning-Revitalizing/dp/B002EBIRGM/ref=asc_df_B002EBIRGM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312280085431&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11864650558899669140&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1023626&hvtargid=pla-571251773738&psc=1&mcid=e54d8677495d3467a7dcd615712cb34c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1vmRnNfUhQMVY01HAR1wRAYwEAQYAyABEgIpgPD_BwE
Hey, currently boat detailing is my full time work now, but I have a question regarding safety. Is it wise to use a mask when buffing a boat? There is stil some gellcoat that you are removing so possible small things you inhale. What is your opinion on this?
It’s definitely not a bad idea, all the dust from the compound, and the gel coat is definitely not good for your lungs. That being said, most people never do it ha ha.
Think of wake up as a super super fine compound/polish. Cleaner, waxes are on their own level- I’m not a huge fan of them, in my opinion it’s counterintuitive that it has small amounts of grit to clean and remove small swirls and protect in the same material.
@@DrakesDetailing thank you. You'd hate to walk any of the docks here. Everybody thinks the blue bottle maguires marine cleaner wax is the best invention ever. I'd much rather use you're method in an old video where instead of cleaner wax use normal wax with a more aggressive pad on the DA
Any tips for rotator cuff/ligament pain while buffing? Obviously there’s basic tiredness and muscle soreness after a day buffing but this is different. Am I just over working myself? I notice it mostly when I’m buffing out my buddies sanding scratches or pigtails for extended periods of time😂. I use my forearms and body as much as I can but as you know you have to push into with your shoulders sometimes. Been buffing boats for 4 years now never had a problem until just now. I’m only 24.
It gets so much worse, I’ve been professionally detailing for 10+ years and unfortunately the shoulder pain gets very bad. Laying in bed at night my shoulders ache and feel terrible when raising over my head. Try and stretch before starting!
I have a black hull just needed a medium compound with rotary with the lake country low lint wool, still a little hazzy, I have shine supply classic polish, sonax perfect finish,lake Country yellow medium, HDO orange, rupes yellow and also a shine supply 15mm. What would you suggest to get a better than factory mirror finish?
Are you comfortable with wetsanding? If it’s real light oxidation and the medium cut helps it but it’s still not looking how you want I would try wetsanding 1000 then 2000 then follow up with your white wool and after the orange pad on a forced rotation with your go to diminishing polish and finish up with Jescar ultra lock.
Hey man ! My question is, are you comfortable sanding? If you want an absolute mirror finish , I would recommend sanding the boat before these steps… Buff with shine supply heavy cut with a rotary and a white wool pad Then, switch to a yellow wool pad with chop top on the rotary Then, switch over to shine supply, wake up with a force rotation machine in an orange lake country force rotation pad Then seal her up with either Block ceramic coating, if you’d like to go to the ceramic route, or if you just want to do a standard polymer sealant for protection, I would do just car power lock.
@@DrakesDetailing my question is, is there anything other than wake up ? for a final swirl/haze removal that would produce a killer gloss?? I'm not really sold on imparting any sio2/primer prior to a Nasiol zr53 coating, just being anal about proper adhesion.
Suggestion for a detail that requires more than a light polish. Get a roll of Butyl tape and use a few gun and pull the snaps and clips. All the coming pad clips and snaps in this detail kill production time and pads. Pulling things like speakers, assembly covers and other non bedded and backing plated items really speeds the job.
Awesome, I like you because you are an entrepreneur. In your videos I have seen how you have been growing. I'm from Michigan and I'm moving to Florida in October. I would love to work with you for a month to practice. Then I'm going to open my own job, detailing to start, but I'm leaning towards fiberglass and gel coat repairs, then when I have the money I want to rebuild valuable boats.
If it’s waxed, I would use a spray detailer, such as punch it from shine supply, or if it’s unwaxed, and you’re just getting ready to buff it I would remove it with some sort of degreaser.
@DrakesDetailing for real man you've taught me so much.. It's a great feeling working for myself and actually making decent money. As you know it doesn't happen overnight. There's a lot of hard work and patience involved. But the satisfaction is awesome when a customer is stoked with the job. Thanks again Drake!
Gradys can be difficult to detail, the gel doesn’t always shine like you hope. Not as bad as a carvers though. Sea rays are the easiest. Not sure what they use in there gel but it really shines with minimal effort.
DON'T wear a watch or rings when cleaning/detailing your boat... you'll likely scratch the gelcoat , Isinglass etc. and ALWAYS use eye protection when using rotary tools/buffing( God forbid you hit a loose snap etc. and loose an eye)
💰💰 Save 15% On ALL Shine Supply Marine Products & MaxShine Products with our discount code ( DRAKE15 ) at checkout. 💰💰
💻 www.shinesupplymarine.com
💻 maxshineusa.com/shop/
Man I gotta tell ya, I watched a crap ton of your videos, spent damn near $1800 on products, followed your instructions step by step without any shortcuts, and my new/used 2018 Rinker 260 EC literally looks brand new inside and out. I wanted to say thank you. 👊🇺🇸
Heck yea!!! Thank you! 💯💯
Good to see you and local boy did good getting along!
It’s about time huh! 😆
Kindness is a much better way to live life 🤘
Man I’ve shared your very first engine cleaning video with everyone on my pier… that’s just how long I’ve been following you and using your TTPs (Tip, Tactics and Techniques) Thanks
Thank you! 🤘
Hey Drake,
Keep it up, your great work!
What pressure washer do you use on these job sites? and where do you get water to do the job.
Another awesome video Drake! Super informative and packed with great tips!
Thanks bro!
Videos have been a big help man. I live in central Florida. Have 2 jobs lined up this week . Look forward to more videos and to continue learning
Good luck! Glad to help!!
I started my boat detailing business in Pittsburgh Pa by watching and learning from your videos. You are a living legend! Your videos are real life and that's what makes you stand out. Keep up the good work, it must feel great to be helping so so many people out. I can't keep up with all the work I have and boat owners know if they have me detailing their boat it's gonna turn out the best it possibly can and I ultimately have you to blame lol....I mean thank. Thank you so so much for being so willing to share your top notch knowledge and experience. Oh I also remember in a video you made a while back that when you said something like this.... "I'm not trying to be better than the next guy, I'm trying to be better than myself day after day". I think about that comment everyday that I can and I can't agree with you more. Thanks again Drake you are da man! And I love these F'n boats too lol
Thanks so much for taking the time for that nice comment!! You are most welcome, and I cannot thank you enough for watching and following along! 😎😎
Watching from Long Island NY. Just started my own company started off at a diving marine service company branched into detailing. Your videos have been clutch.
That is awesome! Best of luck!
Great Job guys .. I am for 10 years in this business and still You videos bring some value for me
Great to hear that I’m making a difference! Thanks so much!
Amazing job. I always learn something from you. My boat looks awesome now after watching your videos!!! Thanks ❤
Great to hear!! 👍🏻🔥🔥😎
Very thorough video bud great job!! Also… on removing stickers, try using a steamer works great!!
Thanks for the tip!
Been watching your videos for years. Learned a lot. I have a 31ft Tiara and have compounded, polished, and ceramic coated it. The non-skid on a Tiara is pretty sharp. I haven't tried to detail it. Do you detail nonskid like what Tiaras' have ?Seems to me it will chew up the pads ! Let me know your thoughts.
m.ruclips.net/video/ibfh8ucS1K8/видео.html
Yes, I have! This is exactly how you do it😎
Drake, thanks so much for this. I have just started restoration on my 45' SeaRay fly. Compound, polish 2x and then sealant. I have just about finished the compound step on one side below the rub rail only, and I really appreciated your comments about not extending your arms. While I was getting great results on my compounding, I was extending my arms too much and getting what I call "fly-outs". I'll keep my arms in now and move the body.
Also, I will be ditching the extended handle off of my Dewalt rotary, and just grip the motor end (like what I see you doing) for hopefully a bit more control.
Finally, I am located in Canada and I could not find any shine supply distribution up here. And exchange rate + import duties would have been killer for sure. I had already found a Starke distribution point, so am using their products, (so a bit slower compound speeds).
Thanks again,
Thanks for the comment! That’s awesome! No worries at all, you need to do what you gotta do 😎
Best one yet! Great job Drake. I couldn’t find the link to the millie 21mm throw in the description? Great detail and awesome inspiration!!
Thanks for your kind words!
Here’s the rupes link: www.rupes.com/product/lk900e/
Hey Drake, just want to thank you for your videos. I’ve been detailing my personal 2004 21.2 Rinker captiva since the day I purchased it from the dealer. My wife of 38 years and I just purchased a 2006 Formula 37 pc last year and I have been watching your videos to help us in getting both are boats looking like showroom condition. I have purchased some of your products through shine supply which I received yesterday and am looking forward to using them. I’m happy to tell you that just from watching your videos I have picked up some really good techniques on polishing the proper way. Trusting the process is absolutely the standard. Oh by the way,
I really appreciate your story.
My 1 question: when your cutting on non skid and you getting around your bow rail anchor points and any metal that you come in contact with transfers on to the gel coat and non skid. What do you do with that to keep from happening? Thanks for all you do for boat owners and Detailers. God bless you and your crew.
Hey bro! Thanks so much for following and for your support! It means a lot to us! It really helps a few tape off your metal cleats, stanchions, etc. so that the world does not make contact with the metal and transfer the black marks into the gelcoat.
Copy that sir thanks.
All tips are so true thanks Drake!
My pleasure!
What’s the best sun glasses for your job tint wise so you can see swirls and finish between buffs working in the bright sun
In my opinion, Costa sunglasses are the best shades you can wear around the boat 😎
For on the water purposes, and for detailing purposes
Hey Drake thanks for keeping em coming! Yo on the two step non skid effort. Both wool pad or second cut with a yellow pad?
That’s correct! Sometimes using the same compound with two different pads will help get the effect of using a heavier compound, and you don’t want to use too thick of a compound in the nonskid, or just gets caked up. That’s why we use a sinner less heavy cut compound, with two different pads. The first pad makes that same compound go heavier, and the second pad makes that same compound go lighter.
So you use a rotary buffer for the first compound step and then a DA or orbital buffer/polisher for the rest of the steps?
Yeah I was also wondering if you could do all the steps with a rotary buffer or if you actually need a different buffer for steps 2 and 3.
@thearr08 I have been in paint and body for the last 30 years and done my fair share of buffing I have used only a rotary buffer period. I have never seen anyone use a orbital except for applying a glaze or wax. I even did my own boat the same way but if the orbital buffer is a better option and cuts down on time then I'm in because I'm doing my aunts 30ft searay here real soon before they store it for the winter.
@@jeffbryner5355 Oh, makes sense. Thank you for the response. Do you know anything about microfiber and foam pad? If so, I was wondering how you clean them, because I assume a spur which you use to clean wool pads would be too rough to use on a foam or microfiber pad, but maybe not.
@thearr08 I have used a end of a putty knife and screw driver angled with the rotation of the buffer but im.not sure that's the right way 🤣
That is correct!
Crushing it. Very informative video. Enjoyed it all and motivated me to get working on my 28 Grady. Thank you.
Right on! Thanks man!
What machine are you using on the inside at 1:55? Thanks
That would be the Rupes Millie
You’re the best man. So informative.
For someone who is thinking about starting up a seasonal detailing business for the first time. Do you recommend staying under a certain boat footage if working solo? I have past experience in boat detailing but have never done the job by myself and also haven’t been in the business in years. Any advice is appreciated man. Keep up the awesome content.
I appreciate that!
As far as size, I really wouldn’t try to tackle much more than a 45 foot boat by yourself, even 45 can see a little daunting for a first time by themselves
Always doing amazing work brother! 👍🏻👍🏻
Appreciate it!
I’m always learning, thank you Sir for the video 👍😁
So nice of you!! Thanks for watching 🔥
Good morning. Quick question. Ran out of Shift soap. My order should be here Monday. Have a detail tomorrow on Saturday. You recommend anything from the parts house? Thank you in advance.
Hey bro! Please see my response on Instagram 😎.
Autozone/Orielys /NapA or Walmart?
Drake when are we getting the full video tour of your sick trailer? I want to steal all of your organization and efficiency tips!
Very soon! Stay tuned! I did a walkthrough in another one of my recent videos, but it wasn’t the title of the video
Drake I have been watching your videos for the last few months trying to get caught up on. It has helped me tremendously on my ability to detail my boat! Thank you! By the way where do you get your buffer pads at?
Hey Man! I love my lake country pads. You can find most of them here: shinesupply.com/collections/pads-applicators
@@DrakesDetailing Thank you
Love all the information you give in all of your videos! I have one question for you. I live in the Chicagoland area and want to know what’s the best outside temperature to do your buffing and polishing? Can I polish below 60° outside?
Hey bro! Thanks!
Anything below 45-50ish would be tougher for the compound to work properly, you can still do it, but you’ll just be working a lot harder haha
Thanks for all the knowledge your dropping God Bless you
My pleasure
I just received that Makita buffer. Any reason you use it without the handles? My boat is on the water in a slip on the lift. I put the U handle on mine as give me something to hold on to a little more securely, but I havent used it yet.
It’s just personal preference, I find it easier to control, and to maneuver in and out of places without the handle on.
That rupes yellow wool is 🔥 it’s the only wool pad I run on vehicles great for one step
They are great pads!
Can u just do the heavy cut and chop top and then the wake up for the final?
Yes
Great work as always, will you still use starke wax ? Do you feel ceramic coating on a commercial charter boat would last better than wax?
Yes, absolutely it would last longer- given its installed correctly, and maintained properly. I don’t really use star products anymore, every once in a blue moon. I use mainly shine supply products now.
We appreciate you too brother. God bless!!
I appreciate that! Same to you🔥
So with Shine Supply fading out the boat line of products, what will you recommend instead of Chop Top and Heavy Cut?
Those will always remain in the loop, some different stuff will just come into the mix. 😉
@@DrakesDetailing just curious they said marine products so figured you’d have an idea.
Hey drake how much do you add to the price if you have to cut and polish the haul off the water on a floating dock?
I’d as at least around another $5 per foot for the time and hassle.
Great video like always. when you polish with wake up do you wash your boat with soap before applying jescar? Thank you
Sometimes yes I do, and other times I’ll just do a simple alcohol wipe before we apply the sealant.
@@DrakesDetailing Thank you
What type of alcohol do you use, thanks
You don’t use double sided wool pads anymore? I have a hard time with double sided yellow medium pad running flat, wants to skip around.
I still use them intermediately, you definitely need to run the double sided pads more on an angle, so that it won’t skip around as much 💯
@@DrakesDetailing i gotcha! thank you ill have to get me some of the single sided ones and try those out too.
For sure! They both have their places. I like running the double sided ones on angles, and in and out of stainless fittings. The flat ones are good if you were just doing a long-haul side and don’t have to worry about hitting anything else.
@@DrakesDetailing What about the thickness? 1.25 cuts more correct? I've always used double sided 8" x 1.5". Thank you brother, much appreciated. 🤙
Long time viewer, love all the experience and knowledge you bring!! 🙏
I got a question for ya
I have a boat that is 2 years old, was professionally ceram coated in factory. Last year, being under warranty the dealership stored and waxed the boat-which waxing part was never actually done 😠
My question to you is, do you recommend I wash with a ph balanced soap before detailing and polishing with the powerlock+ or should I do a dilution of dawn soap?
Boat turned out amazing mate!! Thanks again for what you do!!🥂
Hey bro! You can use any degreaser to wash a boat before compounding or polishing. Dawn dish detergent is most common. 😎
I bought a bass boat that someone sprayed with automotive clearcoat and it's half flaked off, the gelcoat is oxidized where it's gone. any thoughts on the best way to remove the rest of the clearcoat?
At this point, probably sanding. Seems 1000 grit sandpaper, then 2000 and see if it gets the rest off.
Im interested in getting the pad cleaning spur, do you have a link for that by chance?
Hey bro! I don’t currently have a direct link for the pad cleaning spray right this second, but here’s an Amazon link where you can buy one😎 www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-Polishing-Cleaning-Revitalizing/dp/B002EBIRGM/ref=asc_df_B002EBIRGM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312280085431&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11864650558899669140&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1023626&hvtargid=pla-571251773738&psc=1&mcid=e54d8677495d3467a7dcd615712cb34c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1vmRnNfUhQMVY01HAR1wRAYwEAQYAyABEgIpgPD_BwE
Are you including the non skid steps in you standard pricing is that an additional X amount per step?
If it’s on the topside, yes.
Hey, currently boat detailing is my full time work now, but I have a question regarding safety. Is it wise to use a mask when buffing a boat? There is stil some gellcoat that you are removing so possible small things you inhale. What is your opinion on this?
It’s definitely not a bad idea, all the dust from the compound, and the gel coat is definitely not good for your lungs. That being said, most people never do it ha ha.
So abrasive wise is the Wake Up just a step above cleaner wax?
Think of wake up as a super super fine compound/polish. Cleaner, waxes are on their own level- I’m not a huge fan of them, in my opinion it’s counterintuitive that it has small amounts of grit to clean and remove small swirls and protect in the same material.
@@DrakesDetailing thank you. You'd hate to walk any of the docks here. Everybody thinks the blue bottle maguires marine cleaner wax is the best invention ever. I'd much rather use you're method in an old video where instead of cleaner wax use normal wax with a more aggressive pad on the DA
Any tips for rotator cuff/ligament pain while buffing? Obviously there’s basic tiredness and muscle soreness after a day buffing but this is different. Am I just over working myself?
I notice it mostly when I’m buffing out my buddies sanding scratches or pigtails for extended periods of time😂.
I use my forearms and body as much as I can but as you know you have to push into with your shoulders sometimes. Been buffing boats for 4 years now never had a problem until just now. I’m only 24.
It gets so much worse, I’ve been professionally detailing for 10+ years and unfortunately the shoulder pain gets very bad. Laying in bed at night my shoulders ache and feel terrible when raising over my head. Try and stretch before starting!
@@brandonthorbahn2405darn. I might try to teach myself how to buff with both arms then.
Hey there! No rotator cuff pain for me yet, but I can only imagine how bad it’s coming one day lol!!
What’s the going rates to buff and perfect nonskid?
I’d do around $20 per square foot if the job requires you to do the non-skid only
I have a black hull just needed a medium compound with rotary with the lake country low lint wool, still a little hazzy, I have shine supply classic polish, sonax perfect finish,lake Country yellow medium, HDO orange, rupes yellow and also a shine supply 15mm. What would you suggest to get a better than factory mirror finish?
Are you comfortable with wetsanding? If it’s real light oxidation and the medium cut helps it but it’s still not looking how you want I would try wetsanding 1000 then 2000 then follow up with your white wool and after the orange pad on a forced rotation with your go to diminishing polish and finish up with Jescar ultra lock.
Hey man ! My question is, are you comfortable sanding?
If you want an absolute mirror finish , I would recommend sanding the boat before these steps…
Buff with shine supply heavy cut with a rotary and a white wool pad
Then, switch to a yellow wool pad with chop top on the rotary
Then, switch over to shine supply, wake up with a force rotation machine in an orange lake country force rotation pad
Then seal her up with either Block ceramic coating, if you’d like to go to the ceramic route, or if you just want to do a standard polymer sealant for protection, I would do just car power lock.
@@DrakesDetailing my question is, is there anything other than wake up ? for a final swirl/haze removal that would produce a killer gloss??
I'm not really sold on imparting any sio2/primer prior to a Nasiol zr53 coating, just being anal about proper adhesion.
Suggestion for a detail that requires more than a light polish. Get a roll of Butyl tape and use a few gun and pull the snaps and clips. All the coming pad clips and snaps in this detail kill production time and pads. Pulling things like speakers, assembly covers and other non bedded and backing plated items really speeds the job.
Thanks for the tip!
Man that trailer is sweet !
Thanks, we love it!!!!
@@DrakesDetailingpatiently waiting for the next video 😅
We will have one coming out next week! I have been in Nepal for the last 15 days! 💯
Do you train or have in person classes?
I offer personal 1 on 1 5 day training. Feel free to DM me on Instagram or Facebook for more info!
Awesome, I like you because you are an entrepreneur. In your videos I have seen how you have been growing. I'm from Michigan and I'm moving to Florida in October. I would love to work with you for a month to practice. Then I'm going to open my own job, detailing to start, but I'm leaning towards fiberglass and gel coat repairs, then when I have the money I want to rebuild valuable boats.
What do you use to get spider poop off a boat
If it’s waxed, I would use a spray detailer, such as punch it from shine supply, or if it’s unwaxed, and you’re just getting ready to buff it I would remove it with some sort of degreaser.
I pad the upper corners of my scaffolding setup to prevent gouges when moving to the next spot.
We normally do as well! Good tip
Drake is the Michael Jordan of boat detailing! I consider Jake my boss😂
Haha thanks!😊
@DrakesDetailing for real man you've taught me so much.. It's a great feeling working for myself and actually making decent money. As you know it doesn't happen overnight. There's a lot of hard work and patience involved. But the satisfaction is awesome when a customer is stoked with the job. Thanks again Drake!
Gradys can be difficult to detail, the gel doesn’t always shine like you hope. Not as bad as a carvers though. Sea rays are the easiest. Not sure what they use in there gel but it really shines with minimal effort.
Amen to that! All of them are sooo different!
that trailer is sweet
Thanks 💯😎👍🏻
If only you were in Arizona......! Would you ever consider doing RVs?
I used to do a couple RVs here and there, I really don’t do too many anymore. Period
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🔥🔥😎💎
We need more Bryce!
Noted! Haha
DON'T wear a watch or rings when cleaning/detailing your boat... you'll likely scratch the gelcoat , Isinglass etc. and ALWAYS use eye protection when using rotary tools/buffing( God forbid you hit a loose snap etc. and loose an eye)
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Dude I’d love too move to Florida too work with you ⚡️🙏🏻 I’m from Wilmington NC
Thanks haha
Never, as a straight male, say, "You should have given me the tip"
🤘😂