Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
How To Build A 10x12 Tall Barn Style Shed With Loft
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 ноя 2014
- Please visit my shed building forum at buildashedgara... or my website at www.cheapsheds... for more shed building information. This is an overall video of the 10 steps to build a 10x12 tall barn style shed using the plans available on my website. For more details and to see all of my shed building videos visit my video page at www.cheapsheds...
i wish you would walk us inside the shed when its completed, the only thing i request in the future for this channel.
6:20 my biggest issue here is that this violates a whole lot of basic safety rules when it comes to 2nd story floor support. The floor should not be screwed to the sides of the wall 2x4's. There is no support to keep the screws (which most people will try to use) from sheering off if they put too much weight in the loft. Their is 2 options to fix this. 1) add 2x4's to the wall, to support each floor joist (and screw them into each wall 2x4) for it to sit on, or at a bare minimum, the 2nd story floor should be on top of the top wall plate. Doing this means that the roof trusses will have to bolted to that floor and the wall sides will be raised up that 3 1/2-6" (depending on the boards). I know that this will mess up the height of the standard wall sheeting, but that could be fixed by ripping screwing 6"-8" of sheeting on the outside, under the eave. Overall I do like the plans as a general outline, but I am going to do these modifications.
Thanks for pointing this out. Looks to be very valid concerns.
Wether you screw a ledger board to every stud or screw the floor joists to the studs, the screws will still be relied on. Resting the floor on the top plate is great, but how much weight is anyone really going to put on the loft of a 10x12 shed? If I was worried about weight, I would use a combination of nails and screws, and add that ledger board with one nail and one screw at each stud. The nails hold the shear strength and the screws hold it in place and help the nails from just pulling out. Good catch tho
i noticed this also.. i would have put the joist 2X4s on the top plate between the rafters and over if not on top of the studs. nothing works better than full bearing..
In regards to option 1 (which sounds to me like the "bare minimum" but maybe I'm misunderstanding) - would that be one long board or cut boards inserted in-between studs, (like fire breaks)?
The former would make inside finishing tough but the latter seems to be about the same as what they are already doing.
@@brandondierwechter2492 A floor system should never rely on nails or screws in sheer. @jacobew2000 was talking about running jack studs from the floor up to the dropped floor joists/ceiling joists. This would be much better than what was shown in this video. It would still be better to have the floor joists/ceiling joists be placed on top of the top plate. This way the roof trusses could be tied into the floor joists/ceiling joists and act as a bottom chord preventing the trusses/walls from spreading and decrease the risk of roof collapse under load. Very important in high show load areas.
I'm thinking about building a shorter barn style with enough storage up top for seasonal holidays
never seen people work at such high speeds
It is always a pleasure to see professional work. Nicely done.
Where can i find you at. I would like to purchase for one or have it bulletin.
Que bonita quedo gracias por compartir
I really like that roof!
What is the estimated cost of this beautiful shed
Why do I feel like this is the song that will be stuck in my head when my life finally falls apart. Not this shed though, looks great
By and large, a good instructional video, though.
Why didn’t you stagger your seams while when the plywood on your subfloor
I'm a little confused about the roofing sheathing. How is the overhang 12in, and it looks like the trusses are on 24 so how did you get the 8-foot board to land on a truss? Did you cut it down to seven feet?
What is the bit you used on the router to cut out the doors?
And is it the same bit for trimming the roof beak?
Thank you
For the door you will need a 1/4 in straight cut router bit and a collar so it will follow the trim on either side of the collar. For the roof beak you will need a follow bit router with a ball bearing on the tip which so it will follow the 2x4 underneath. For more details and photos see this post on my website: www.cheapsheds.com/how-to-build-a-shed/door-2/
Thank you. Your technique of putting the siding on while the frame is flat was very helpful.
14 minutes to build a shed:),not bad wish i was that fast.took me about 8 hours:(
if i'm building this on concrete with 2" thick bricks, can i not use the 4x4 skid and go with a 2x4? I don't want the shed to sit so high off the ground.
Spring for the real plywood for the plates.
nice build dude...rock on
First mistake. Plywood panels on the floor should be perpendicular to the joists, not parallel.
I love it
I'm 67 years old, I don't know if I can work that fast anymore.
Do I have to use the wood composite outer siding with this design or can I use stucco if I go with a concrete foundation?
Yes you can use a concrete foundation instead of a wood floor. Yes you can use stucco, but you will have to use an OSB or plywood base (to replace the siding) as a foundation for the stucco.
Where did you get those hinges?
You can buy the hinge online. There is a link on my website at www.cheapsheds.com/hinge/ . The hinges are offered in a variety of lengths and thicknesses. This type hinge is far superior to the average strap hinge available in the hardware store. Since I started using them 15 years ago my door related service calls dropped by 95%.
Where can you buy that Plywood siding that was used in this video?
You can buy it at Lowes or Home Depot or any lumber store. It is Weyerhauser "old mill" siding but many manufacturers make a similar product.
2 questions....ive been looking at your website and not sure if you have it listed and im missing it or if its not there.....do you have an option for a 14x24 foot shed? and do your plans include a materials list for the size you choose so you can get a price list and over all cost to build???
+Gary Bowen Both my deluxe gable and tall barn style shed plans include 14 wide up to 32 ft long. Check my plans comparison here www.cheapsheds.com/storage-shed-plans/ about the 3rd or 4th heading down for a complete list of all shed sizes. Including 14x24. And both plans include materials lists and cost estimate worksheets for all shed sizes. Both these sheds are identical from the top plate down. The only difference is the trusses and roof line: Either barn style or gable roof. Both include overhang on all 4 sides but only the tall barn style includes the option for no overhang.
Any more questions?
where i live any shed over 120 sq ft needs wet stamped plans to get a permit. are they available from you and what do they cost?
My plans are designed to comply with most uniform building codes but they are not stamped. Most likely you will have to hire a local civil engineer or architect to stamp them. But that will be expensive. The other option is to look for plans by a vendor in your geographical area.
!0 by 12 IS 120, not over. You're good to go. I just built one.
What wood did you use for the outside of the Shed? ( The wood that looks like it was already painted? )
+Wood supply10 Its just a standard composite hardboard siding available through lowes or home depot or any large hardware store. I buy the preprimed siding because it saves a step and makes for a better finished shed.
How tall is this particular shed?
For this shed, the sidewalls are 8ft high, the foundation is 6in, and the truss height is 1/2 the width, or 5ft. For a total height (from ground to top of truss) of (8+5+.5) 13ft 6in.
What is the estimated cost of this build
1700-2000