The GPIO pins should only require a few mA when configured as outputs, so they ought not to affect the power budget that much Maybe it's just a lazy repurposing of another board, and they couldn't be bothered to make a cutout for the GPIO? It's bewildering...
If you plan to power external drives via USB you really need the PoE+ version of the hat. Otherwise "be careful loading up those usb ports" as Gary explained.
Your comments about not being able to use the GPIO pins with a HAT, makes me wornder why no one has ever come up with an intermediate board so you can use the GPIO pins and any HAT. Thanks for the explanation
Great video and impressed to the simplicity on how you descibe the install. Will this fit in the normal Pi case/housing and perform okay with the fan or will it restrict airflow and require a new vented case/housing?
@@GaryExplains Maybe I was not clear enough in my question but I meant to say you can also power a RPi 2B with this setup next to the other ones which is great and is - at least for me - preferable above using a POE HAT which, as you justifiably mentioned, takes away all the GPIO pins (unless you start to fiddling with it and end up with a messy setup). Great videos, by the way! Thumbs up!
My the new Raspberry Pi PoE+ HAT use for DVR Security Surveillance to control the PTZ Cameras, But I would like to use the ADSL or NBN Broadband Router to Power Over Ethernet by using the TP-Link Powerline Wi-Fi Kit Extend Wi-Fi to Every Room by plugging in the RJ45 Blue or Yellow Network Cable, without using USB C to Power the Raspberry Pi 4 Modal B. So would I need to purchase the 5 to 12 Volt Passive Power Over Ethernet Adapter POE Cable Splitter Injector from eBay.
The POE/POE+ HATs are really badly designed. The fan is presumably there to help cool the CPU, since the DC-to-DC converter certainly doesn't need one. But all that really does is restrict your options on dealing with the cpu. For example, many people don't want any noise at all and go for a fanless heat sink. The output is also very poorly regulated. Its an expensive mistake in my view. I would recommend using a POE+ splitter instead. This gives you the most design and build flexibility, far reduced noise (the regulator isn't sitting up against the I/O connector), and more options if you need better regulated output. (Well, the splitter probably has better circuitry inside it anyway. The HAT looks like a mess). In terms of wattage... usually 12W is enough for the RPi and any USB dongles you might plug in short of an external hard drive. I would never connect an external hard-drive powered by USB to an RPI, that's just asking for trouble. Always power such devices separately. The RPi power input is typically limited to 3A (roughly 15W) anyway. You begin to risk burning up traces above those levels. USB keyboards and mice use almost no power (don't use a LED keyboard if you are worried). The biggest usb power hog tends to be wifi power dongles and very high speed memory sticks. People often plug in external wifi dongles (even on a RPI4) because the on-board wifi is really horrible, or there isn't any on-board wifi in the first place. Particularly if you want to use it as a base station or wifi router. Budget 500mA for that. The solution to using very high speed memory sticks is simple... don't use high speed memory sticks. Use medium or low speed sticks. Applications usually have no need for the higher bandwidth. The reason you want to use POE+ instead of POE is because POE+ runs at a higher line voltage (POE is 24V, POE+ runs 48V), thus POE+ has a far lower power loss over long ethernet cables. People running POE over long cables often get far less than the rated wattage at the other end due to losses over the long cable. Also, POE+ has more safety features while POE is just straight-out passive 24V with no handshake or protocol. -Matt
i am trying to work with my raspberry pi 4 but its green led is not flashing ,only red led is working,and nothing displaying on monitor .can you pls help me ,is these bcz of supply issue ,i have given power supply from the usb port of my monitor
They didn't even need to make 3 of them. The difference is too slim to matter. They could have just made the + model only and been done with it. Just stupid.
@@GaryExplains I was trying to type 2 of them. It was a typo. But again, the difference between the 2 is not significant enough to warrant the need for both. They could have just made the + one only.
@@TechieXP I guess you don't have much engineering experience. Why did AMD create Zen 1 and then Zen 2 processors, what a waste, it doesn't need 2. 🤦♂️
@@GaryExplains I'm not talking about other products. It's just an opinion. I dunno whats the big deal. This item specifically for the Pi, it simply wasn't a significant difference and just the better one would have been the better option. It's just my opinion. I don't see what the problem is.
The point is that the original one was released in 2018. Then after three years they made a new one, which was better and had greater functionality for the same price. What don't you understand about that?
Another great reason to do this is to add the ability to remotely reboot a non-responsive pi by cutting the POE from the switch and turning back on
Very nice and well presented! Great video!
Glad you liked it!
Why on earth would they design this to cover the GPIO pins? it's the most non-sensical design decision I have seen in a long time.
Maybe the amount of energy over the Ethernet is the sufficient only for the board
The GPIO pins should only require a few mA when configured as outputs, so they ought not to affect the power budget that much
Maybe it's just a lazy repurposing of another board, and they couldn't be bothered to make a cutout for the GPIO?
It's bewildering...
If you plan to power external drives via USB you really need the PoE+ version of the hat. Otherwise "be careful loading up those usb ports" as Gary explained.
That’s also useful when you need to power cycle a Pi which is installed in a very inaccessible place or from a remote location.
One thing to note is those external PoE adaptors do NOT support gigabit Ethernet. Probably not an issue for what most people use Pi for.
Some do, we have projects with 1Gbps. We noticed that the model we were originally recommended did not support 1Gbps and thus swapped.
Nice, clear and smooth. Nicely done.
Thanks a lot!
The splitter is the winner!
When can we expect to see a video about Power over Wi-Fi? That would really make my life easier ;-)
Just need a device that'll operate using a couple microamps!
@@JeffGeerling "Sorry, grandpa. You can't visit us with your pacemaker - we got the wi-fi turned on" 😁😂
LOL
Great info on Pi and Ethernet!
*GARY!!!*
*Good morning Professor!*
* Good morning fellow classmates!*
Stay Safe Out There Everyone!
MARK!
Your comments about not being able to use the GPIO pins with a HAT, makes me wornder why no one has ever come up with an intermediate board so you can use the GPIO pins and any HAT.
Thanks for the explanation
Exactly the information I needed.
Great video and impressed to the simplicity on how you descibe the install. Will this fit in the normal Pi case/housing and perform okay with the fan or will it restrict airflow and require a new vented case/housing?
Appreciate the vid Gary. Nice job.
I really hope the next Pi has PoE support as standard.
Only if it doesn't drive the cost up and that is still includes wall power supply.
Ahh, I didn't know POE splitters existed! Just what I need to power up my Pi3b cluster!
very informative! thank you!
Thanks Garry.
Does the hat and splitter handle dropping 48v down to 5v or do you need to use a 5v injector instead of a standard poe switch (48v)?
Comparing solution costs also would have been nice.
The HAT cost me £18.00 and the splitter cost £9.50.
@@GaryExplains Thanks.
tnx❤
Hi Gary, I liked the video. But could you add a link for power sourcing the POE, e.g. POE injector, to connect the POE hat or POE splitter?
I think I got mine on Amazon, but that was back in 2021.
exelent!!!
Another advantage of the last solution (splitting POE into separate data and power) is that it's not restricted to Pi 3B or Pi 4B, correct?
Yes, as long as the the volts & amps are suitable.
@@GaryExplains Maybe I was not clear enough in my question but I meant to say you can also power a RPi 2B with this setup next to the other ones which is great and is - at least for me - preferable above using a POE HAT which, as you justifiably mentioned, takes away all the GPIO pins (unless you start to fiddling with it and end up with a messy setup). Great videos, by the way! Thumbs up!
My the new Raspberry Pi PoE+ HAT use for DVR Security Surveillance to control the PTZ Cameras, But I would like to use the ADSL or NBN Broadband Router to Power Over Ethernet by using the
TP-Link Powerline Wi-Fi Kit Extend Wi-Fi to Every Room by plugging in the RJ45 Blue or Yellow Network Cable, without using USB C to Power the Raspberry Pi 4 Modal B. So would I need to purchase the 5 to 12 Volt Passive Power Over Ethernet Adapter POE Cable Splitter Injector from eBay.
If using the PoE+ HAT, is there enough space between the boards to insert a ribbon cable to the camera ribbon connector on the main Pi board?
Hi. I absolutely enjoyed this video. Can you make a video about installing arch linux on a raspberry pi please? I tell appreciate your channel.
Szabi
is there any good raspberry pi case which can be used with this POE HAT ?
Hi! Im using a Raspberry Pi 4 Model B+, do I need the hat to use the ethernet POE feature?
The POE/POE+ HATs are really badly designed. The fan is presumably there to help cool the CPU, since the DC-to-DC converter certainly doesn't need one. But all that really does is restrict your options on dealing with the cpu. For example, many people don't want any noise at all and go for a fanless heat sink. The output is also very poorly regulated. Its an expensive mistake in my view.
I would recommend using a POE+ splitter instead. This gives you the most design and build flexibility, far reduced noise (the regulator isn't sitting up against the I/O connector), and more options if you need better regulated output. (Well, the splitter probably has better circuitry inside it anyway. The HAT looks like a mess).
In terms of wattage... usually 12W is enough for the RPi and any USB dongles you might plug in short of an external hard drive. I would never connect an external hard-drive powered by USB to an RPI, that's just asking for trouble. Always power such devices separately. The RPi power input is typically limited to 3A (roughly 15W) anyway. You begin to risk burning up traces above those levels. USB keyboards and mice use almost no power (don't use a LED keyboard if you are worried).
The biggest usb power hog tends to be wifi power dongles and very high speed memory sticks. People often plug in external wifi dongles (even on a RPI4) because the on-board wifi is really horrible, or there isn't any on-board wifi in the first place. Particularly if you want to use it as a base station or wifi router. Budget 500mA for that. The solution to using very high speed memory sticks is simple... don't use high speed memory sticks. Use medium or low speed sticks. Applications usually have no need for the higher bandwidth.
The reason you want to use POE+ instead of POE is because POE+ runs at a higher line voltage (POE is 24V, POE+ runs 48V), thus POE+ has a far lower power loss over long ethernet cables. People running POE over long cables often get far less than the rated wattage at the other end due to losses over the long cable. Also, POE+ has more safety features while POE is just straight-out passive 24V with no handshake or protocol.
-Matt
Hi Gary will a standard poE cable power a sensecap M1 how will it deliver the voltage for that unit. Many thanks stef
I don't think so.
i am trying to work with my raspberry pi 4 but its green led is not flashing ,only red led is working,and nothing displaying on monitor .can you pls help me ,is these bcz of supply issue ,i have given power supply from the usb port of my monitor
You are using PoE?
Do you need a poe switch for that or a regular switch can do it?
You need a PoE switch or a separate injector (like I show in the video).
Hi! I would love to see a way to power a cluster of Pi 4 over GPIO pin with a Computer PS. How is that made?
But i need a PoE switch?
Did you watch the video?
@@GaryExplains no :(
Then maybe you should before asking questions that are answered in the video. 🤦♂️
Usb B mini or micro you just said B
I am not sure which part of the video you are referring to, but likely micro B.
@@GaryExplains 👍 I may get myself one ☝️ it was when you referred to the PoE splitters output as a USB-B and Ethernet
Can I pull ethernet from regular WiFi modem to power RPi zero using splitter?
I guess you didn't watch my PoE video.
You would also need a PoE injector.
They didn't even need to make 3 of them. The difference is too slim to matter.
They could have just made the + model only and been done with it.
Just stupid.
Eh? 3 of them? Are you talking about the PoE hats? I think you are being way too harsh.
@@GaryExplains I was trying to type 2 of them. It was a typo.
But again, the difference between the 2 is not significant enough to warrant the need for both. They could have just made the + one only.
@@TechieXP I guess you don't have much engineering experience. Why did AMD create Zen 1 and then Zen 2 processors, what a waste, it doesn't need 2. 🤦♂️
@@GaryExplains I'm not talking about other products. It's just an opinion. I dunno whats the big deal. This item specifically for the Pi, it simply wasn't a significant difference and just the better one would have been the better option. It's just my opinion. I don't see what the problem is.
The point is that the original one was released in 2018. Then after three years they made a new one, which was better and had greater functionality for the same price. What don't you understand about that?
Please reposition the teleprompter
I don't use a teleprompter.