I think the limit switch should be hooked up so at any time the feed motor doesn't stop , the limit will kick off the feed from striping or burn the motor
Sort of machine shop 101. This guy needs to find some course work or experienced people, anything, but he is a hack at this point. DON’t WORK UNDER A CLOUD OF IGNORANCE. Go get help.
@@boonedockjourneyman7979 I personally think you are being a bit cruel on the point you are making. He is the only one that runs the machine, and I am assuming, as he says, he would just simply keep a good eye on what he is doing. We also don't know how he uses the machine either. OF COURSE it is best practice to put it on, without question. But I'm an electrical engineer, and have a dead mans cord, to backfeed my electrical mains, if I lose electric. NOT a good idea, but I am the ONLY person that would know how to start the generator, let alone, my wife is not strong enough to even go to the barn to retrieve it. I know to keep the power main off when in use, and to never start the generator, unless the cable is plugged in on both ends. I've been told off by MANY industrial electricians for this practice, but I laugh, I'm the only one to use it. To be honest, I better be more careful reaching toward my mill before the end mills stop spinning or I'm REALLY going to regret being in a hurry one of these days. But I wouldn't consider this man ignorant, nor myself for using the dead mans cable. But there DEFINETLY are better practices for certain in both cases.
X and y should have limit switches as they offern teach their limits, Z if you over travel up the threaded rod just leaves the nut and it'll stopp lifting, only in down will you damage something, but you never work at the limits of the Z axis, infact most of the time you don't even use the Z axis
Like all parts "custom made" for car, boats or motorcycles nothing fits right off the bat, everything needs a bit of tweaking. You did a great job on installing that drive unit. I think everyone who has ever built anything has used pliers as a hammer and electrical or duck tape as a bandage. LOL
You noticed my improvised band aid! Haha! I thought the black duct tape would be less noticeable than blue painter's tape. LOL. Do what ya gotta do, right? I went into this you tube thing with the objective of transparency and honesty. I don't hide mishaps, I figure we all learn from them and most people appreciate that. Thanks for watching, Tom.
Great video! Although I wish my clone Bridgeport purchase has been a less agonizing event, found after delivery and some cleanup that the Z axis gear shaft was bent. The hand crank hid that problem until fully removing the crank handle. The bushing for the graduated dial is keyed to that shaft so the shaft had to be straightened to remove the bushing and also to fit the shaft extension required for the Align power feed. That meant that the spiral bevel gear for knee Z rise had to be removed before the shaft could be worked on... This all was accomplished but added about a day and a half to the simple job of attaching the Z axis power feed! Thanks for the video!!
I feel that you should refrain from making videos of things that exclude the installation of the safety components. You might not think you need them (I wholeheartedly disagree) but their included with the kit for a reason.
Great video. Thank you for putting in the time and effort to make it. I have an Alliant mill that is causing me fits getting the servo motor on. My wife wants to move me from my 35 x 31 shop on our 5 acres. What size or car quantity is your shop? Thank you
Nice improvement to your mill Frank. I'm putting an x axis on my 1906 Garvin mill. It really needs many modifications to accept a power feed. I learned a few things, thanks.
The Dozer build series has a new video every Thursday at 7pm. These other videos are a hit or miss thing. Kind of random when I decide to tackle another project.
G'day Frank. I will be installing the same motor as you just fitted to both the Z & Y sections, so the video came in handy. Job well done, & it works, which is a plus 😊
nice video, I wish I could have that large show with all items :) It would be nice if the drive did have a slip clutch in case any stiffness or blockage of the Z Axis, but I would guess that would be the limit switch's
It's funny how some like to 'knock' the Chinese made stuff because 'it don't fit first time'... but ironically- anyone who has tried to 'frankenstein' old machinery to get one functioning unit out of two (or more) non functional ones knows that even stuff made by the same company doesn't always 'fit without tweaking'- regardless of where it was made...
Do you not have to pin or lock the extension shaft onto the existing drive shaft in some way? What keeps the extension shaft from simply unscrewing as you run the table down?
ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/233351563239 if that works for you. "ALIGN TAIWAN Z AXIS POWER FEED KNEE MILLS - BRIDGEPORT & OTHER MILLING MACHINE 5 YEAR WARRANTY, HEAVY DUTY HIGH QUALITY GENUINE ALIGN" $339 USD.
I have a couple of those roll pin punches. Ironically, I bought them specifically for working on Cub Cadets. There were roll pins in the driveshafts, and front axles where they came in handy.
Хобби
I think the limit switch should be hooked up so at any time the feed motor doesn't stop , the limit will kick off the feed from striping or burn the motor
Sort of machine shop 101. This guy needs to find some course work or experienced people, anything, but he is a hack at this point. DON’t WORK UNDER A CLOUD OF IGNORANCE. Go get help.
@@boonedockjourneyman7979 I personally think you are being a bit cruel on the point you are making. He is the only one that runs the machine, and I am assuming, as he says, he would just simply keep a good eye on what he is doing. We also don't know how he uses the machine either. OF COURSE it is best practice to put it on, without question. But I'm an electrical engineer, and have a dead mans cord, to backfeed my electrical mains, if I lose electric. NOT a good idea, but I am the ONLY person that would know how to start the generator, let alone, my wife is not strong enough to even go to the barn to retrieve it. I know to keep the power main off when in use, and to never start the generator, unless the cable is plugged in on both ends. I've been told off by MANY industrial electricians for this practice, but I laugh, I'm the only one to use it. To be honest, I better be more careful reaching toward my mill before the end mills stop spinning or I'm REALLY going to regret being in a hurry one of these days. But I wouldn't consider this man ignorant, nor myself for using the dead mans cable. But there DEFINETLY are better practices for certain in both cases.
X and y should have limit switches as they offern teach their limits, Z if you over travel up the threaded rod just leaves the nut and it'll stopp lifting, only in down will you damage something, but you never work at the limits of the Z axis, infact most of the time you don't even use the Z axis
Drill press, proper work piece holder and reamer. Maybe learn the basics before “fixing” a perfectly good mill. Yow.
Like all parts "custom made" for car, boats or motorcycles nothing fits right off the bat, everything needs a bit of tweaking. You did a great job on installing that drive unit. I think everyone who has ever built anything has used pliers as a hammer and electrical or duck tape as a bandage. LOL
You noticed my improvised band aid! Haha! I thought the black duct tape would be less noticeable than blue painter's tape. LOL. Do what ya gotta do, right? I went into this you tube thing with the objective of transparency and honesty. I don't hide mishaps, I figure we all learn from them and most people appreciate that. Thanks for watching, Tom.
Saludos cordiales desde Chile 🇨🇱
Great video! Although I wish my clone Bridgeport purchase has been a less agonizing event, found after delivery and some cleanup that the Z axis gear shaft was bent. The hand crank hid that problem until fully removing the crank handle. The bushing for the graduated dial is keyed to that shaft so the shaft had to be straightened to remove the bushing and also to fit the shaft extension required for the Align power feed. That meant that the spiral bevel gear for knee Z rise had to be removed before the shaft could be worked on... This all was accomplished but added about a day and a half to the simple job of attaching the Z axis power feed! Thanks for the video!!
I feel that you should refrain from making videos of things that exclude the installation of the safety components. You might not think you need them (I wholeheartedly disagree) but their included with the kit for a reason.
thank you for this video, the instructions that come with the kit (at least mine) are worth less than used TP
nice video ..-- you need some t-handle hex keys.!!...lol...!!!
Great video. Thank you for putting in the time and effort to make it. I have an Alliant mill that is causing me fits getting the servo motor on. My wife wants to move me from my 35 x 31 shop on our 5 acres. What size or car quantity is your shop? Thank you
Shop is 28x46 feet.
Reverse the handle and slide it on. Out of the way but where you need it.
Nice improvement to your mill Frank. I'm putting an x axis on my 1906 Garvin mill. It really needs many modifications to accept a power feed. I learned a few things, thanks.
im wanting to do the X Y on my Index Mill. hand cranking is getting old..
You will wonder how you lived without it. At least, do the x axis then see how you like it. They sell those same units for all three axes.
how much did it cost !!!!!!!!!!
about $300 but prices vary on eBay.
Enjoyed watching Frank! When's the next one??
The Dozer build series has a new video every Thursday at 7pm. These other videos are a hit or miss thing. Kind of random when I decide to tackle another project.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 thanks Frank!
G'day Frank. I will be installing the same motor as you just fitted to both the Z & Y sections, so the video came in handy.
Job well done, & it works, which is a plus 😊
nice video, I wish I could have that large show with all items :) It would be nice if the drive did have a slip clutch in case any stiffness or blockage of the Z Axis, but I would guess that would be the limit switch's
It's funny how some like to 'knock' the Chinese made stuff because 'it don't fit first time'... but ironically- anyone who has tried to 'frankenstein' old machinery to get one functioning unit out of two (or more) non functional ones knows that even stuff made by the same company doesn't always 'fit without tweaking'- regardless of where it was made...
Ain't that the truth!
Do you not have to pin or lock the extension shaft onto the existing drive shaft in some way? What keeps the extension shaft from simply unscrewing as you run the table down?
yes, there is a roll pin. At the 25 min mark. That pin goes through the both the extension and the original shaft that is inside the extension.
Install gear, key not in.
Hi Frank, may I ask the Make & Model and what weight capacity did you purchase, Thanks for taking the time to record this. Regards from New Zealand.
ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/233351563239 if that works for you. "ALIGN TAIWAN Z AXIS POWER FEED KNEE MILLS - BRIDGEPORT & OTHER MILLING MACHINE
5 YEAR WARRANTY, HEAVY DUTY HIGH QUALITY GENUINE ALIGN" $339 USD.
Wow Frank Thats fast thank for the information. Regards Beagles.
Awesome Job Brother!!!!
I have a couple of those roll pin punches. Ironically, I bought them specifically for working on Cub Cadets. There were roll pins in the driveshafts, and front axles where they came in handy.
Same here. That's how/why I got mine.
Never owned a set, I think about it all the time. LOL. (Damnit) one of these days, I'M GOING TO BUY ME SOME!!!!
Glad I found this channel!
Welcome aboard!
Thanks for posting this.
You're welcome
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 How's it working after a year?