Torque Wrench Test & Calibration - DIY Cheap & Easy
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- In this video I test a budget 3/8 click torque wrench that I just purchased, I also show a really simple way of testing a torque wrench and how to calibrate it. Doing it yourself can save a lot of money as some places charge quiet a bit of money to test and calibrate.
Link for luggage scale rover.ebay.com...
Link for similar budget torque wrench rover.ebay.com...
Link to a video explaining how to calibrate any size torque wrench, A great video • Calibrate a Torque Wre... Talks about conversions from 6:40
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Disclaimer:
GerardBurke is a qualified motor technician who has completed modules & courses in manual handling and all aspects of workshop safety. These videos are not intended to be used by anyone who is not trained and or qualified to carry them out.
Due to factors beyond the control of GerardBurke, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. GerardBurke assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. GerardBurke recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of GerardBurke, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not GerardBurke.
Torque wrench testing hack, simple easy and and excellent solution to a common problem.
I would recommend checking it in higher settings as well as lower before completion of calibration.
I have linked in the description a video which includes conversion charts for different length handles etc..
Thanks for watching.
When I purchased three new torque wrenches ½ inch, 3/8 inch and ¼, inch I also purchased a digital torque adaptor and used it to check the calibration of the torque wrenches.
In all cases the torque wrenches agreed with the digital adaptor and makes for easy calibration checks as all items where new thus giving a decent reference point.
Great information and presentation video as always.
Don’t forget when your finished using your torque wrench to relieve the tension on the spring by setting it back to zero
Great advice, I'd never thought about that!
I watched several torque wrench calibration videos but I found this to be the most informative and easy to follow.
I used the exact same tool to torque my new bike at 20 Nm as the manual says and it just stripped out the threads...
Whish I watched this before. Thanks for the video.
Who uses a torque wrench on a bicycle..lol
@@chriscs9080 Me, (of course I have a carbon frame, don't want to crack that one) lol.
@@chriscs9080 A LOT of people
well done. Great that you checked the accuracy of the scale first!
2:11 you're testing calibration with a uncalibrated tool... brilliant!
It was near enough pal
@Falcon I think that's the point, exercise weights are decent, but they're no calibration weight.
I did the same test on a new 1/2 Harbor Freight torque wrench (looks just like yours) with similar results, something like 73 lb-ft when the wrench was set to 60. I did a quick read of the user manual, which instructed me to "exercise" the wrench by cranking the adjustment to the max and then to the min settings 3 times. I did that procedure thinking there's no way that could change anything, but when I re-tested it was dead on! Sorcery! Has anyone else tried that?
Test and calibration facilities always 'exercise' the torque wrench in both directions, high and low settings before the actual test procedure.
This was done, I have broken in many torque wrenches over the years and it is recommended if not used for long periods also, this one however was simply out, I replied to a company today that sells this tool with the same info as below.
Since I have adjusted the wrench I have had it machine tested twice, it is within the % tolerance and I never had to adjust it since. I have used it quiet a many times since and I am happy with the tool.
The calibration tester I use is the one that my current employment must use to keep all certs up to date (every 12 months) on the workshop torque wrenches. They test them all (cheap and expensive) and see brand new ones out of spec as well. Lesson I learnt is to test them all and not to trust until proven.
Thanks for sharing,
Regards
Gerard
Great presentation + offer. Avoided errors with wrench and saving money + been teached. Excellent . Thanks a lot.
Exactly how I do it Gerry....those digital scale's are fantastic.
Thanks from France, I now know how I can open my torque wrench and which part I have to turn to calibrate it. It seems that the construction of my torque wrench is the same, cool !!!! :)
Thanks for the video. I was looking through these videos trying to find one like the one I had and the adjustments. This was exactly what I needed. Adjusted mine and tested to 30 ft-lbs. 👍
Very interesting
I'm so glad I found this!
Bought two complete sets of torque wrenches. 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". Except for one of the 1/2", I have no faith. I put them in a vice and they won't click, at all.
The first set I got from Harbor lights and the second from a company in Amazon.
They are fairly inexpensive and a local calibration lab wants almost three times their cost to test each tool.
I will be trying this and some other ways I've seen on RUclips.
Thanks for the video! Straight to the point and easy to follow.
Thank you Paul
Thanks for this calibration tip. I've one of those cheap torque wrenches. I've often wondered how accurate it is. Tony
Excellent advice, now to get my measurements.
Nice straight forward explanation!
I could not resist having an opinion on this. Due to the nature of how torque wrenches work, the end result of calibration creates a ratio in the scale. You change the ratio when you adjust any one location, then you only have that one spot where the torque wrench may be correct and it may be out at all other locations. To calibrate a torque wrench you need to check it at 20%, 60% and 100%. Some wrenches adjust the 100% using a screw on the side and others require change small metal blocks inside (pivot blocks).
You make adjustments as follows: Adjust the low end (20%) using the handle until it reads 20% of the max scale reading. Then adjust the screw on the side to set the 100% reading. If you had to adjust the 100% you then need to re-check the 20%. If you re-adjust the 20% you again check the 100%. You have to keep this up until you check both the 20% and the 100% without needing to adjust. Then you check the 60%. If the 60% is good you are ok, if the 60% is not good the only way to fix that is to replace the spring and start all over at 20% and 100%. It may have been left under tension for a long time and lost its spring tension ratio.
Other wrenches use a different system for the 100%. They use a pivot block instead of the screw and roller bearing inside. Everything is the same except you change pivot blocks with size differences measured in thousands of an inch. The 20% is still adjusted at the handle and the 60% is still the spring tension.
To adjust the wrench handle at any set value is to destroyed the Spring Tension Ratio and the wrench may only be accurate to that setting only. All other settings will be inaccurate. The minute you make any adjustment to the wrench you need to recheck 20%, 60% and 100% and ensure the Spring Tension Ratio is still accurate which it may not be. If you adjust the wrench at any one setting you totally change the ratio throughout the handle movement and very likely you have destroyed the accuracy of the wrench in all other locations of adjustment. By the way I have a certificate from Snap On to repair and calibrate torque wrenches as well as calibrate the instruments used to calibrate the wrenches. This will make the wrench unreliable at all locations other then the one it was set at. Take it from a certified torque wrench technician, do not do this. The fact this worked for him and was later tested fine was simply lucky for him but may not be lucky for most of you. Either that or the calibration tech repaired it without telling the customer.
I was thinking to buy a torque wrench today but didn't. Had the idea to use a normal wrench plus a digital luggage scale. To calibrate the scale, you could measure out water by volume using a kitchen measuring jug and add it to a plastic bag. The water will be 1kg per liter. So that is about 4 measurement inaccuracies but, the water weight should be very accurate and the length of the lever measurement should be accurate compared to the torque wrench mechanism which has to operate with high precision and needed calibration.
Thank's very much for that....It was a Very good video!!
Thanks for the kind words
The thing with cheap torque wrenches is that I might be right at 30nm but could still be wrong at 20nm and 100nm. I saw a sliverline one that claims it works from 28-210nm but on tests it's inconsistent over the full range, some settings are spot on, others are off. I might just have to bite the bullet and buy 2 teng torque wrenches for £70 each (£140 total) to get the same range. I have the 5-25nm teng torque wrench and I'm happy with it.
I do it exactly the same way as you Gerry.
The torque operating the clicker is a different radius from the torque on the bolt, So you need to choose the calibration radius to be where your hand/line of force is going to be when you use your torque wrench, That is why there is a smooth groove in the knurling of the adjusting sleeve bit. Also if you calibrate your torque wrench and then grip it to close or use a pipe on it so you are applying force at a different radius your result is *&(^&$%$@(*&)^. Using a pipe under torques,gripping closer over torques.
Great video. Thanks so much.
I believe the ring in the knurl is the calibration point
Thanks for the info Gerard. I must check my own 1/2 inch draper torque wrench which I have about 8 years or more, I normally only use it on motor cycle axle nuts
No bother, Cheers Simon. My own Teng Tools 1/2 inch was very close after 4 years of use.
How close to calibration was it?
Does this mean that I can use a normal wrench with a scale as an improvised torque wrench? I'm not gonna use it frequently anyway.
Strange !, I took 2 courses of Mechanics in high school and never taught this simple, but valuable piece of information. We took engines out, put it back in inside out, using a torque of course, but they didn’t tell us that the torque itself might read it wrong and in turn, ruin somebody’s car, as most bolts that require torque, are the once that attached to engine, or part of transmission and such . Thank you sir for that simple explanation. 🙏
School is designed to keep you chained to a job and obey anyone that gives you orders. Knowing how to do something yourself from start to finish is how you start realizing the actual world around you.
That type of work would require a smaller torque wrench spec. The accuracy of a new wrench is always available on its spec sheet as the margin of error expressed as a +/- numerical value as well as the torque range.
great video,ive got 1/4,3/8 and 1/2 inch torque wrenches,do like using them,2 draper and one from b&q
This wrench is Taiwan made and sold under million different names. I have it in my work place, I grabbed it two days ago and noticed that it's not working. So I took another one/type and completed job. Then I checked this one, dismantled it and concluded that one part is missing. It happen that connecting thread screwed inside nut (I see that other people had same problem) what I didn't see at first. Anyway, I repaired it, even "calibrated" with other wrench, since I don't have dinamometer at hand, but this design is problematic. How many nuts and bolts have been tightened to wrong torque up to now?
What’s the point of the 12” mark ?? You will get a different reading at different points along the handle ?? Why 12 “ ??
Now all you need to do is to test the accuracy and repeatability of the luggage scale!!!!
I have the exact same luggage scale for the exact same purpose lol. It is pretty simple. I have an old autozone torque wrench I had to calibrate. I've got it pretty close but no matter how hard I try I can't get it perfect. It's 2.5ftlbs high at 60ftlbs so I guess it's ok. Only thing is I don't know if that sets it off at other settings. I will say this gauge is hard to read when the click goes off. Also the video you linked is the video that I used to learn how to do it also lol.
Aiming for 29ft Lbs but getting for 36Kgs, why go between KGs and Pounds. . . . ?
I'm away to do a VW Caddy Injector and want to check my wee mini torque wrench.. . . . . 7 ft/lbs. . . .
You should pull on "the groove" mark on the handle!
Due to construction of click wrench with secondary shaft inside main body you MUST NOT measure directly 12 inches from the head! Instead you should attach you pull scale right at the groove of the handle and measure from the groove to the middle of the head (socket), then calculate adequate force. Secondary shaft and whole "click" mechanism change geometry of click wrench so typical "length x force" does not apply as it would with simple, solid shaft/bar. Look into construction of click wrenches or service/assembly to get better idea.
Also remember that 1 Newton = 0.1019716213 kilogram-force.
A kilogram-force (symbol: kgf) is a unit of force in the gravitational metric system. It is defined as the magnitude of force applied to one kilogram of mass under the condition of standard gravity (9.80665 m/s2). One kilogram-force is therefore equal to 9.80665 N.
Good luck
Bravo!!!! Well said. I guess many try to teach how to calibrate a torque wrench but do it incorrectly. The groove is always there, and I was wondering why he had to measure from the pivot. I could say that this is such a bad way to calibrate a torque wrench.
Thank you man. Greattttttttttttt. Thank you Dear.
Excellent!
Glad you liked it Freddy :)
helpful, thank you
Glad it was helpful Yudo :)
Uses a cheap ebay luggage scale as a calibration source lol, was the luggage scale calibrated and certified?
Good vidéo 👍 👍 👍
My new torque wrench not clicking after 5 use.
Please can you explain me how to repear it?
Thank you for helping.
Torque= Length x Force if you are adding an adapter (crowfoot) then the equation changes to TW=(TAxL)/(L+A) TW(torque wrench dial reading) TA(Torque applied at end of adapter) A(Length of adapter) L(distance from square drive to handle position)
Or T= (23 square) DC \23+23 =N
Instead of measuring, could you have use that smooth part on the handle as a pulling point?
No because the point where you apply force has to be on the handel (because the only connection is by a spring connected from the handel to the cam assembly).
No, because the definition of torque is force applied at a specified distance from the center of rotation. Since the wrench is scaled in foot-pounds, the force MUST be applied at one foot from the center of the pivot. (It may be applied at a different point, but then you have to do some math to find out what the force would be if applied at the proper place.
wtf? handel? the smooth ring in the knurled handle is the point of reference.
nice, you explained very nice, but now your calibration of torque wrench is based on accuracy of that digital weight scale. I prefer using gravity as you said at end of your video. Slower, maybe, but you do not need this digital scale you used, that also can be wrong :).
Thx for this video
Thanks for the comment.
Very good 👍
Now do you also have to make sure that you are pulling parallel to the floor as well as 90 degrees to the handle? Would that make your reading less accurate?
Brilliant thank you
🙏🙏👌
What a good video, I’m looking to buy a budget torque wrench but am not confident that they would be accurate.
Aldi’s £20 one is now more attractive cos I can calibrate it. Cheers mate
So I went and bought the Aldi’s torque wrench for £19.95. I am going to make a video and upload it myself showing it’s calibration using techniques seen here.
check out Tekton they are amazing for the money
Even if it's a much longer wrench, you can still calibrate it from the 12 inch point along the handle.
(Granted, greater accuracy could achieved the further you are from the fulcrum, but hey!)
>
No you can't. These click style torque wrenches require the force to be applied at a particular distance from the click pivot point. To see why, watch a video such as "Why GRIP Position on Torque Wrenches MATTERS!" on "The Bike Sauce" channel. It seemed like a great informative video that explains the math and physics of how click style torque wrenches operate.
I've been trying to get hold of a scale that doesn't 'snap' off to show a conclusion when the reading starts to settle down, and haven't been able to find one. Does yours not do that or did you find a way to turn that function off?
So i thought this wrench was measured in Newton meters. Would this test be accurate in using kg and ft?
Sir after you open that skrew....what spring you adjust inside tork wrench?i cnt understnd...
interesting. I didn't know that torque was directly related to dead weight. makes sense, I guess I just assumed it would be more complex. I also didn't know that they could or even should be checked and adjusted. thanks!
The most basic torque calibrator is actually an arm (of calibrated length) from which a calibrated mass is suspended from the end. (Example: an arm that is exactly 1 meter from the center of its pivot to the attachment point of a weight, where a mass of (for example) 1 kilogram is suspended. Typically used to calibrate electronic torque sensors, which are then used to calibrate ... torque wrenches (and other force measurements.)
What is the measuring tool called please
Depends where it is made . I prefer a wrench made in USA. 2020
After the adjustment, you lowered down the setting to 20 pounds, but final force was 30 pounds. How does it work out as correct result?
I only lowered it down for adjustment, the test force was the same and the result correct, I hope this helps
I guess you _can_ adjust the tension collar while the wrench is at a higher torque setting, but that means more friction on the collar. You don't need to go far up the scale before it's pretty much impossible to turn the calibration collar with your fingers, and you really shouldn't take pliers to those fine threads.
Thanks for that., I have 2 Snap on & a Mac' have never thought to check tham but will make it my next job. One question I need to torque a nut to 163 ft lb, my biggest wrench goes up to 150, any ideas other than buying a 175lb wrench ?
Use a reduction unit/adapter. For aviation/Helicopters it's common to require 200 to 400 ftlbs torque , 4 to 1 reduction units are used achieve this easily and accurately! 2:1 and 4:1 reduction units are commonly found sizes in 3/4" and 1" drive. The top rotor nut on a chopper(sometimes called the Jesus nut) gets ~424ftlbs easily applied with 106 lbs thru a 4::1 reduction unit...
@@kaboblewis1333 Right on! Use the proper tools. I have also seen hydraulic multipliers the go up to the thousands of foot-pounds.
do you know how to calibrate this one? Crafstman Model# 9-31424???
How to repair nobar torque wrench 330?
Don’t forget, the notch on the handle portion where it isn’t textured is the point where you should place the string/band to calibrate it properly. Since it’s length dependent on how much force is applied to give you a specified torque.
Example: putting the scale at 13 inches away from the center point will give you a false reading since it’s 1 inch off. It’s typical of torque wrenches to be calibrated at 12 inches exactly since 1 pound of pressure at 12 inches will equal one foot pound.
Logic tells me that there would be no need to measure & calculate anything, just pull with scale from the point on the handle that would replicate as if Your hand is pulling on it during normal use, as that would be the same point of leverage, just set any desired poundage, & if Your calibrated scale matches it at the click, that should be it........Ya kno it's true
Peace Out.....& Beyond
What did you put in vice a socket ?
Where did you buy that meter?
This tork wrench use the griss oil or not sir?
Only problem is that you assume the weight is dead accurate which you use originally (proper engineering people will have special weights with certificates for measuring). Also the luggage scale may not be accurate at different weights. I would be interested how accurate they are... All in all, I've used my cheap old torque wrench for a while, most of the time the parts I'm wrenching have a degree of strength built in so you could over torque it slightly and it will not strip. At least on my old Honda bike... I guess newer bikes with allu and steel mix could strip easier.
Great tips here. One question can I use a similar weighing scale on a normal ratchet to tighten a bolt to a particular calibration say 4 or 5 kilos?
You certainly can, it just won't click for you, so keep track of the reading and the angle that you're pulling at.
How do you know that the fistance from the centre of the axe head to the hadle should be 29.5cm ?
How can I know that distance to my others torque meetes?
Thanks
Multiply distance times weight to get torque
That's assuming the eBay luggage scale is calibrated .......
Unfortunately the principle used in this calibration is incorrect because you need some extra torque to make the tool click. The full torque that you measure is not transferred to the socket. This is easy to demonstrate with a digital torque adapter that will show a smaller value after the click. Probably you spoiled the correct calibration.
can you recommend a better way or a video showing how to be more accurate ?
I was scrarching my head for a good hour trying to figure out why mine was different from all the others I see. Turned out the calibration collar was stuck in the locking nut 😂
It'w spot on now from 20 to 115. From there and up it's clicking progressively early. Set at 150, it clicks at about 125. Any ideas? Is there another point of adjustment? There's a hex screw about halfway up the shaft. Any hints as to what that does? Don't wanna muck about with it without understanding what I'm doing.
This hex screw is also for calibration (usually under the rubber cover which looks like hex screw, but proper regulating screw is under it). Tightening this screw reduces the tightening force and unscrewing increases the tightening force. The second adjustment is to be able to calibrate the key linearly throughout the entire operating range. Turning the adjustment in the handle has a greater effect on low scale indications and turning the adjustment screw has a greater effect on high scale indications. For example, you set a key with a range of 5-25 Nm. It may be that the bottom adjustment will set 5 Nm but if you check the wrench at 25 Nm it is then 28 Nm, which is too much. The bottom is set Ok but the top is too high (you always start by setting the bottom with the bottom adjustment, this means 20% of max wrench torque, in this case min 5 Nm is 20% of 25Nm). Then you screw in the upper adjustment screw and the upper setting drops e.g. to 26 Nm. and the lower reading also goes down but only up to e.g. 4.8 Nm because the upper screw works much more for high settings and almost nothing changes at the bottom of the scale. You can end now (4% accurancy is achieved) or you can do better. Then you turn the bottom screw again (tighten) until the measured indication increases from 4.8 Nm to 5Nm. The upper range also jumps but very little - e.g. only to 26.5Nm because the lower adjustment screw has a greater impact on low indications. Again, gently screw the top adjustment screw adjustment and lower the next reading to 25.5 Nm. The lower indications will also drop but slightly - e.g. to 4.9 Nm - you have absolutely enough accuracy. Well, you can play like this until you get almost perfect - unless the wrench elements are broken, e.g. the spring is already damaged.
So in order to get correct readings in the whole scale range, you need to have the proper relation of the lower regulation setting to the upper regulation. The correct indications at one point you will get any of the adjustments, but we want to have an exact wrench in the entire range of indications, e.g. almost the entire range - 20% to 100% of the range (below it cannot always be set).
In your case you must unscrew upper adjustment screw and thighten the low adjustment screw. If you are out of adjustment range (low screw) you can use washers between spring and locking shaft or maybe you need new adjustment spring
P.S.
Wrench will decalibrate itsel in time, even never used, because grease will age, will become like rubber and this will lead to harder work of the roller. The best torque wrench grease as far as I konw is Super Lube with Teflon NGLI 2. Maybe you need new grease.
How do you know you're measuring scale is accuate...? I have the same one and it was cheap.
The weight of the barbell weight is known because it is labeled. If the digital scale shows the same weight when it is hung from it then you know it should be accurate. In this video the barbell weight is 1.25kg and the digital scale read 1.24 which was close.
So do you expect the tension adjustment to be linear from 30 upto the upper range ? What do you do if the upper range is out ?
then the spring inside is probably just worn and needs replacing
If your wrech is longer....to save having to do the math.....cant you still test it from the 12inch point Gerry.
This question went unanswered, so for future reference that can't be done with the common type of click wrench, which is Length Dependent. It must be done from the indicator ring on the handgrip, which shows the Force Loading Length.
How do u know what exact distance down the wrench u need to pull??
Pull till the wrench clicks.
the socket spins no matter how tight I get the vise.. any ideas?
Get an old socket you don't need and grind off parallel sides so it can grip it.
Put a bolt into the socket then thread a few nuts onto the bolt, all nuts lined up in the same orientation. Use the vice to grip against a flat side of the hex nuts.
just tighten on the square of the wrench ..no socket needed
So if you hook a scale to a ratchet, you don't need a torque wrench.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have a question! How do you know your scale is accurate?
You need to buy a $2000 gauge.
Hi I wanna was a
call team torque - duh.
WRONG WAY DUDE. ; )
Congratulations! You just used a mid-price CALIBRATED torque wrench to test the LEAST EXPENSIVE, UNCALIBRATED, dìgital luggage scale you could find. Just because something is digital does NOT mean it is "accurate". A proper torque wrench calibration uses a calibrated work station, measures at least three points, and may do it in both directions. You tested the cheapest possible luggage scale with a cast iron weight at one point. But you do not know the true mass of the weight because IT is not calibrated. Since you adjusted the torque wrench based on measurements by two UNCALIBRATED devices, you now have no idea how your torque wrench is actually performing. Get it to a proper calibration lab (preferably one accredited to ISO/IEC 17025) before you really mess up a customer's car.
What if the digital luggage cale is more accurate than the torque wrench?
@@juanete838 may well be. Laser torque wrenches are the same ilk as Pittsburgh sold by harbor freight with it's 'accurate within 4% nonsense'.
And this guy says it should be sent out for iso cert. 🙄
He used a weight to test it's accuracy.
Whatever you do don't use the standard kilogram in France to calibrate your tools, it's been known to be off some micrograms from other copies, it's not accurate , so maybe your Olympic weight is the real deal, or not?
You can test the digital luggage scale by having two pieces of rope. Both about the same size or as close as you can to it. One to tare the scale and the other to hang a dumbbell. They are usually accurate. Hang the digital scale on something sturdy. I use a pull up bar and it reads a 30 pound dumbell at 29.76 lbs. A 5 pound dumbbell at 5.05 pounds. That's pretty damn accurate.
FGGF
I'm surprised that the wrench was so far off out of the box, I wonder how more accurate a "high end" wrench is 🔧
I had the same thought myself, i would imagine very close out of the box.
Gerard Burke I have a couple of brand new Norbar torque wrenches here, I'm tempted to get a luggage scale and check them out
I would be very interested to hear the results you get if you do :)
Gerard Burke I'll try to remember to get some luggage scales tomorrow
Buy a bunch of the same torque wrench, test against to see if within 1~4% , return wrenches and repeat with different brand, few times over and everyone happy
FUNNY! Your calibration method is so flawed that it’s more a joke than anything else. But to be fair you are not the only one. The vast majority of people showing others how to calibrate or test their wrenches lack the understanding of how a torque wrench works and how to test it correctly, and specially of the math and physics behind their design. This is a clear example of an instant where common sense is nothing but nonsense. Here is a video of someone who is on the right track.
“Most commonly than not people’s common sense is more nonsense than rational or logical sense. That’s because most people’s rational thinking is often based on irrational thinking, and their logical thinking is often based on illogical thinking. That leaves us with reasonable sense. Again, we run into the problem that most people’s reasonable thinking is often very unreasonable.” ~ Yahsnia Galiani
ruclips.net/video/0f746pF1xc0/видео.html
Thanks for the information very useful ĵoe clay