Awesome video!! Thoroughly fascinating and so well shot and put together ❤ A very overlooked but incredibly important part of any bike!! Well done as usual SRAM 👏🏻
I was watching this, hoping they would cover how to adjust the bite point on my db8. Just bought my bike that came with the db8 and you have to pull the lever quite in before it bites
Love videos like this that dissect a potentially complicated topic and make it easy for me to be like, "hey, I might go out in the garage and try a couple of these tips right now". Keep up the content like this SRAM!
Aside from usefulness of this video I have to admit that Codes RSC are hands down best brakes on the market. I love how far SRAM has gone with their brakes after terrible Elixirs.
@@artoutlawphoto I ride since three or more month the new SRAM rotors, a better bite and better resistent. Ride only SRAM rotors. Long years the X rotors.
Thanks, I did not understand the bedding in process prior to watching this and I've previously made the mistake of switching pad material and using the same rotors as I did not understand the transfer of pad material onto the rotor.
I use SRAM/Rockshox on all my Suspension components....But I really enjoy using Hope Brakes for their performance and feel....Adjust reach and bite points on the fly! Love their Levers for that!
Hey SRAM! i want to buy your product but my rd,fd brakes are stock and its SHIMANO and I've heard that SHIMANO is actually good so im thinking if i should stay on stock SHIMANO or a new SRAM Rd,fd and brakes to my bike
Features a lot of useful tips. Yet, the order is a bit weird. The lever position can be adjusted when buying the bike/new brakes. The bedding of pads can only be done when the bike has left the shop, so I'd put lever position first, then the bedding process. Otherwise I am really impressed how un-commercial a product series made a particular company can be.
What happens when you change your pads? Now you have old brake material on the rotor and a new pad to bed in. What do you clean the rotor with If you have contaminated rotor what do you clean it with. I had a seal go and rotor needs cleaning so as not to mess up new pads.
I have to admit that I thought I knew how to do proper bedding until I learned that I don't. Never really knew it's that big factor. Gotta bed 'em better
Yes, as long as the rotors aren't specific for resin/organic pads only. I lightly sand the rotor (medium grit, 200ish) then clean thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol. Fresh pads can be rubbed together to prepare the braking material, while used pads needing a refresh can be lightly sanded with clean sandpaper.
I have a new bike and I haven't done the bed in process. I've done a handful of quick rides in flat mellow terrain, the last 2 in wet snow and the brakes were squealing. Can I still do the bed in process at this point? How do I check if it's glazed? If it's glazed can I still bed them in or do I need to do something to the rotors first?
Give your rotors and pads a good clean with hot soapy water. I sometimes even put them in the dishwasher. Rub your pads together under warm water and then just repeat the bedding in process again and your good to go.
my problem with code rsc is you have to bleed those buggers every 10th ride coz they loose all power and feeling and in hot weather they turn mushy they are good cold weather brakes
Good vid but you left out the adjustment of the levers by sliding them along the bars. So many people have them jammed up against the grips, which is how bike shops seem to assemble them.
Sram please start to rollout the bitepoint adjust on all pricepoints of your breaks. it‘s just horrible to have a bike equipped with a code R breaks where the bitepont is so far from the initial starting position. Also give riders the opportunity to own breaks that instantly engage not let the lever travel from the first slight bite to fullout lockout over 2 cm…. that is just horrible I know that is your super “modulation” of the breaking. But there are so many riders who just hate this characteristics .
Hey, question for everybody. My rear brake leaver feels a lot more softer than the front and when I am pulling it it comes closer to the handlebar then the front. What is the problem? What should I do to repaire it? Bad bleed?
If your brake is bleeded correctly, this is partly normal. Your brake line acts like a spring and a longer line means more deflection. I´ve been using a kevlar reinfoced break line to compensate for that.
No issues with assembly for me ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".
Good ide of the 00:00 much 01:40 of difernt bikes idraulics and of caliprs of piol a so 03:28 is good the new camb of 06:10 critcs in to type of bike the 07:26 y llegr a good 20:36 for to finally enjoy a. Winner the so macness fast. Thanks. SRAM
Yeah, show how importent it is to setup the brakes properly, and on the other hand produce those shitty GX brakes which totally lack one of the most important settings: the contact point. Ugly and bad working brakes.
Awesome video!! Thoroughly fascinating and so well shot and put together ❤
A very overlooked but incredibly important part of any bike!! Well done as usual SRAM 👏🏻
Thanks for these videos. The series has been great so far.
Oh man, it took a long time until we have such a perfect createt Video to show erveryone how it works!!! Thanks God
I was watching this, hoping they would cover how to adjust the bite point on my db8. Just bought my bike that came with the db8 and you have to pull the lever quite in before it bites
Same I bought a bleed kit as soon as I got my bike because they felt so squisby
Just brilliant 👏. You "break the codes!". I'm looking forward your next videos! Thanks Sram
Love videos like this that dissect a potentially complicated topic and make it easy for me to be like, "hey, I might go out in the garage and try a couple of these tips right now". Keep up the content like this SRAM!
Aside from usefulness of this video I have to admit that Codes RSC are hands down best brakes on the market. I love how far SRAM has gone with their brakes after terrible Elixirs.
untill you try TRP lol
or trickstuff
@@artoutlawphoto when you get enough money have, yes 👍😉 I ride since years for my Guide the Power pads from Trickstuff. Are the best ones. 👍🙏🤙💪
@@stefanjost259I'm also thinking to try the pads. Did you change the rotors?
@@artoutlawphoto I ride since three or more month the new SRAM rotors, a better bite and better resistent. Ride only SRAM rotors. Long years the X rotors.
Thanks, I did not understand the bedding in process prior to watching this and I've previously made the mistake of switching pad material and using the same rotors as I did not understand the transfer of pad material onto the rotor.
Learning to bleed and set up brakes well takes a lot of time, but so worth it.
Fully agree. @sram I am waiting for brake levers with adjustable shapes. Maybe replaceable ones and you can choose between a set of shapes.
Thanks for dumbing that down! It also validates the way I have been doing it for years.
Good Video Sram! Gonna bed my brakes in next time but they feel solid and aren't squealing so I'm happy with it.
I use SRAM/Rockshox on all my Suspension components....But I really enjoy using Hope Brakes for their performance and feel....Adjust reach and bite points on the fly! Love their Levers for that!
How do I tune the clicking out of my 3rd Zeb steerer?
Good job SRAM. Wont be funding the other big S anytime soon. You guys are killing it
Hey SRAM! i want to buy your product but my rd,fd brakes are stock and its SHIMANO and I've heard that SHIMANO is actually good so im thinking if i should stay on stock SHIMANO or a new SRAM Rd,fd and brakes to my bike
Awesome Series, Thanks SRAM! 🇺🇸
Features a lot of useful tips. Yet, the order is a bit weird. The lever position can be adjusted when buying the bike/new brakes. The bedding of pads can only be done when the bike has left the shop, so I'd put lever position first, then the bedding process. Otherwise I am really impressed how un-commercial a product series made a particular company can be.
Mtb riders and car enthusiasts are the same. Often overlook brake upgrades and tuning/bedding.
Awesome video - great to watch!
What happens when you change your pads? Now you have old brake material on the rotor and a new pad to bed in.
What do you clean the rotor with
If you have contaminated rotor what do you clean it with. I had a seal go and rotor needs cleaning so as not to mess up new pads.
I have to admit that I thought I knew how to do proper bedding until I learned that I don't. Never really knew it's that big factor. Gotta bed 'em better
I have got a question if you want to switch from pad compound can you clean your brake discs rotors so that you dont have to buy new rotors?
Yes, as long as the rotors aren't specific for resin/organic pads only. I lightly sand the rotor (medium grit, 200ish) then clean thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol. Fresh pads can be rubbed together to prepare the braking material, while used pads needing a refresh can be lightly sanded with clean sandpaper.
Amazing bike
What do you need brakes for?
Who does the voiceover? sounds like the same woman's voice from Redbull's the Fast Life? Tessa Stokes?
I have a new bike and I haven't done the bed in process. I've done a handful of quick rides in flat mellow terrain, the last 2 in wet snow and the brakes were squealing. Can I still do the bed in process at this point? How do I check if it's glazed? If it's glazed can I still bed them in or do I need to do something to the rotors first?
If you want full power, replacing the pads/ rotor is your best bet. If you skipped the bed-in there's no going back.
try sanding down the rotor and brake pads with a fine sand paper of maybe 800-1000 and try to bed them in again
Give your rotors and pads a good clean with hot soapy water. I sometimes even put them in the dishwasher. Rub your pads together under warm water and then just repeat the bedding in process again and your good to go.
@@TheNotoriousMIC ok thanks!
@@marcemman2831 ok thanks!
Gracias por el video 😊 muy bueno 👌
neat videos wow and thans
my problem with code rsc is you have to bleed those buggers every 10th ride coz they loose all power and feeling and in hot weather they turn mushy they are good cold weather brakes
Make sure there is DOT compatible grease on the threaded hose barrel at the lever. Common spot where air can get in the system on Sram brakes.
Good vid but you left out the adjustment of the levers by sliding them along the bars. So many people have them jammed up against the grips, which is how bike shops seem to assemble them.
Sram please start to rollout the bitepoint adjust on all pricepoints of your breaks. it‘s just horrible to have a bike equipped with a code R breaks where the bitepont is so far from the initial starting position. Also give riders the opportunity to own breaks that instantly engage not let the lever travel from the first slight bite to fullout lockout over 2 cm…. that is just horrible I know that is your super “modulation” of the breaking. But there are so many riders who just hate this characteristics .
Hey, question for everybody. My rear brake leaver feels a lot more softer than the front and when I am pulling it it comes closer to the handlebar then the front. What is the problem? What should I do to repaire it? Bad bleed?
Different pad wear
@@karbonaterol1577 I have got like a two months the brakes
Not necessarily a bad bleed unless it feels spongy, but it sounds like you've got less fluid in the line than on your front brake.
@@mekanismen it feels spongy
If your brake is bleeded correctly, this is partly normal. Your brake line acts like a spring and a longer line means more deflection. I´ve been using a kevlar reinfoced break line to compensate for that.
No issues with assembly for me ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".
Pro Tip: If you don't want to go over the handlebars, lean over your back tire while breaking hard!
Can't afford one of those hehe
Good ide of the 00:00 much 01:40 of difernt bikes idraulics and of caliprs of piol a so 03:28 is good the new camb of 06:10 critcs in to type of bike the 07:26 y llegr a good 20:36 for to finally enjoy a. Winner the so macness fast. Thanks. SRAM
3:20 axs dh deralieur😂 hmm
Oh I didn't know if I change pad compound I need to change rotor damn....More money will be spent...
Hard struggle
сделайте вещи для тюнинга байка плз
how to set up sram brakes:
1. Take them off your bike
2. Sell them
3. Buy shimano
This is Quite German
Yeah, show how importent it is to setup the brakes properly, and on the other hand produce those shitty GX brakes which totally lack one of the most important settings: the contact point. Ugly and bad working brakes.
Say's Kate Courtney who lost every race in 2021 hahaha .... On the other side very good educational video , thank you Sram
Say's Kate Countney who's a World Champion, World Cup winner, and still finishes with a broken arm.