I really like using 45 degree face mills. I have three Sandvik R245 face mills (3", 4" and 6"). They cut freely, can hog like crazy on a roughing pass and then make a beautiful surface finish on a finishing pass. Ken
I am glad you showed the J head - I could see the belt in the top grooves - I have a Bridgeport clone, and usually - normally only use the face cutters in the first belt position - that makes me feel better.. I like watching your vids - you get right into it Good Onya
Hi Josh, Impressive work !!!!!! Alot of ppl out there have little idea of what all this takes to produce a superior end product.....you consistently meet or exceed the customers expectations. For the uninformed, tightening on a piece of steel imparts a force into the part and actually warps it ever so so slightly...the higher the tolerance needed the greater the need to impart an even force into the part to hold it...ie: use a calibrated torque wrench to ensure the torque into the part is even and consistent and NOT imparting any warp or bow of the part...a good example would be watching a high end gunsmith and observe how he torques chamber reamers and sight fixtures and hold down screws for sight ramps. Great to see you back in the swing of things...... Don
Thank you. Although I had one customer who I couldn't do anything right for, but they were trying to put me out of business. Words right from one of their managers after the fact. Torque and knowing where to torque to is all a key factor in precision. Needs to be tight enough not to move, but loose enough not to warp.
When tightening the clamps, I noticed the 300mm metric crescent wrench you used. Went to Harbor Freight Tools the other day and asked for one as they only offered SAE sizes. Also probably a good idea to have those wrenches calibrated if used a lot.
Josh, as a side note, when running large stock on a planer, we used angled bolt holders however we always used spotting drills for the ground points of the holding bolts & sometimes had a piece in-between that the bolts held against. With the angle we always had down thrust, carry on!!!
Awesome Mr Topper, and fantastic job Connor. Keep up the awesome work and dedication. You have probably one of the best teachers around! Hopefully we can all meet you on the channel someday.
That second cut was really smooth. I could see the difference between the rougher first cut and the much smoother second cut. It showed up nicely on the video.
Nice planner work.... and great to see your shop training an apprentice. I was one of ~1,300 apprentices at the engineering factory complex of over 60k workers. The intake of apprentices in my start year (1966) was in excess of 250. That was back in the mid sixties (hay-day?) and the numbers fell off in every subsequent year.
@paulhammond7489 Yeah, but at the same time, that's good for me. Companies took advantage of American workers for decades, and when they found a slightly better deal overseas, they left American manufacturing in the dust. Now, after covid, they realized domestic production is needed for reliability and procces control. The labor shortage is going to hurt them and force them to start using automation, which is what I'm trying to learn. Idk what the future of manufacturing is, but I don't think it will be like it was in the past where companies had a steady pool of trained and skilled workers available. I honestly think manufacturing as it once was is dead. We are going to have a real issue when the old timers leave and all the skills and knowledge they have leave with them
Josh, as idea; you could put the potentiometer on low, let it run for a minute and measure the distance; then do some runs at different speed settings and take note; might make using the same tool again easier in setup next time. stick a label on the tool; done. Easy next setup.
Finish looked great, I love that machine! I use that same style cutter/insert on my Lagun knee mill, and it really performs. As you had shown, when taking roughing cuts, it sounds like shit and chatters at the start of the cut, and to a lesser degree at the end. They don't like having just one or two of the inserts in the cut. Once you get to full engagement and have three inserts cutting at the same time, it purrs like a kitten. I light finish pass like you did, is the way to go, as it really tames the tendency to chatter. Still sounds bad, and it's still there, but so small it's hard to see in the finish. Get some sharp polished inserts, and you'll love it on aluminum....looks like a mirror!
When working as a student with our variable speeds, we were told to go off to the side of the part, set a 0distance, then count to six with the auto feed on. We would then multiply that number by 10 and we would get a rough range of our IPM. Wish I had one of these and the workload.
I have never done any machining but watch many videos on the subject. Fascinating stuff. I look forward to your content and enjoy whatever you choose to show. I'm sure your preference to run by feel is based on talent and experience.
Josh, I am not sure how flat your bar will end up to be as you release your clamps. If the internal stress is close to be the same on clamp release, you will inevitably still have warping. In a future planer video, it would be nice that you address this! For a .005'' finish pass, I would up the RPMs twofold and increase surface speed by 1.5 from roughing pass. I would also brush on a film of coolant. Love your channel! Love your videos! Love your work! Lovely day!:)
Hi Josh, your selection of the 45 degree lead angle cutter is exactly right for facing work. You sould only use 90 degree when the job dictates it. If you look at putting a small flywheel on the arbor some where it will help stablize the cutter at entry and exit of the cut. Rule of thumb for flywheel size is twice the spindle diameter and 1 inch thick. You could easily attach it to the arnbor? Cheer Ian
I have a machine that looks like a planer like that but it was milling machine from new... It was made in Manchester, England around 1895 and runs off flat belts from a lineshaft... Good video ☹🇬🇧
When I first got into the trade i was taught when milling, to always have the smallest lead in angle to the part. This puts the least amount of stress on the cutter and reduces chatter as your not plowing into the part at a steep angle. I set my cutter so the lead in edge just covers the edge of the part.
Nice video I noticed you didn't put any shims underneath the bar stock most. of the time the stock is not flat by you pulling it down it doesn't come out straight. any reason you didn't use Shim stock to have it perfectly straight cut.
Josh I’m so glad i stumbled upon your channel great work sir ,I’ve just purchased a 8” face mill for the Bridgeport when it turned up it weighs nearly 50pounds think I might of bitten off more than I can chew or more than the Bridgeport r8 can handle 😂 late night drunk eBay purchases gotta love um, mate it’s a awesome channel keep up the great work
This one was surprisingly good. I bought it just for this job. Figured worst case I could run them on the HBM, but it performed great. The only thing I found was if I took less than 0.010" depth it liked to chatter. So I just took 0.015" on all of the finish cuts .
A nice surface finish is always so satisfying. I makes you handle the part with extra care so as not to damage the surface. You mentioned that the material has a slight bow along the length. Are you concerned about it springing back to that shape? Or does it matter in this case?
I love watching your videos but in this one I have to point out or ask why. If there is a bow clamping it will not take the bow out, it will return when clamps are removed. I was taught to use shim on the first side, clean that side up and flip the part to get the bow out. Also please please be careful sticking hands near the cutter when the spindle is on, I am missing the tip of a finger for doing that very same thing. Only takes once and the damage is done.
"LIKE" button has been torqued to the manufacturer's recommended specification. "CLICK". God forbid you should be running around Wisconsin there with a loose "LIKE" button !
Nice work Josh, you created a finish anyone would be proud of! Things are looking good with the DJI gear, but the audio was clipping a little during parts where you were speaking. I found my DJI camera LOVES light and isn't so good in low light situations so I adjust accordingly.
I have never needed to know the feed rate of a machine. I was taught by old machinists who ran by feel, sound, and finish alone. When questioned about calculating feed rate, they always said that its just a guideline, not a real world application. Over the last 24 years of doing this, I can confirm that exact statement. Especially now, with modern materials and different grades of cutters. Each tool cuts differently in each grade of material. All just guidelines, or a good starting point. Adjust from there to get it just right by sound and feel.
Hey Josh, its Jon from Colorado, i love your planner mill, i have been looking for a planner to make a machine like yours, looks like a very useful machine
Hi, Lovely finish, not picking flys but is the head a small moment out of tram as no full circle of cut, which could explain it no like cutting the other way as get 2 depth of cuts in 1 set up. Steve
Love the conversion mill what a great idea been around them a long time but never thought about breeding them together awesome job love the old manual machines used to have a screw machine shop with secondary machines threading shaper broaching centerless grinder lots of Cincinnati mills and grinders surface grinder retired now but still have a little garage shop mill lathe surface grinder kolee tool makers grinder etc. great videos keep them coming thanks
I am glad that your helper is working out well for you. It is interesting to watch you work. I wish that I could have met you at Hungry Hollow. How nice that the cutter is wide enough to cover the width of the part in one pass. What a nice finish. Good job on the video and the project. Thanks for posting the video.
I'd say this Josh. Looks like it's pulling a good speed and feed. Because the chips coming out pretty decent. Also Keith is saying, and have a very pleasant July 4th holiday. Take care now...
A question. When you clamped it down with two bars (around 05:30) I wondered: can you trust the lower surface to be flat? If it is raised in the middle and you clamp it down it will bow. After milling the topside it will distort with a low in the middle. How do you go about that?
I mostly just planned ahead. Put the bow up. Mill flat then it sits flat on the other side. I didn't catch it on all of them, but the tolerances we're wide open. They went through my customers CMM and they said the worst deviation they saw was 0.005. Print called for 2.40" thick +/- 0.015.
I noticed that Josh clamped near the ends so the upward bow in the center was only slightly affected. He could have shimmed under the bar but the tolerances made it unnecessary.
That was very satisfying to watch btw have you thought of putting some sacrificial pieces between the clamps and the workpiece? Might at least be a good idea when clamping on finished surfaces.
I have a question for you Josh: When you pull it down to the table because it had some warp, wouldn't that spring back into when released? Why is it better to pull it down rather than leave warped, then take out the warp when you machine the other side? Wouldn't it's "resting" position be best, like folks have to do when grinding large castings?
Depends on the application. This particular job was best to clamp rigid to the table and make it the way I did. Other applications this may not be acceptable.
Planer table lube question. How are you lubing the ways or is your planer table running on captured roller guides. I worry that at low speed your not hydroplaning on a layer of lube lifting the table from metal to metal contact but degrading the surface finish for planer life.
It is an oil bath system. I have wondered this as well over the several years I've had it and the years the previous owner had it. I check the ways frequently and there is a lot of oil and no wear. But, in the end, a machine is a consumable. It is purchased or built to do a job and when it wears out it gets rebuilt or replaced. This machine has well paid for itself and owes me nothing. If I get 25 more years out of it or just two weeks, it's earned it's keep.
Slick set-up Josh. I had a dozen or so table clamps like that but they grew legs or something. Or someone needed the material for an emergency job...anyway they are sorely missed and i need to find the time to make new ones. Did you turn and thread your bolts or did you buy them ? They look like a fine thread as well. Thanks for another cool video. Cheers from Canada.
The clamps all use 7/8-14 B7 threaded rod. No point in making the bolts when the rod is readily available and cheap. They have been super handy. Definitely worth making more.
What is the reason for cutting in one direction only. There is no climb milling when the cutter is much larger than the work piece. Is this some sort of mechanical limitation in the mill? It seems it ought to cut equally well from either direction.
I really like your Planer Mill. It is such a great idea, I was wondering if you filed a patent. I'm surprised other shops haven't adopted the idea and repurposed Old Planers like the one you used. KOKO!
I have seen a few over the years. But not too often. Most people see an obsolete planer and just scrap it without thinking outside the box. I honestly wish it was still a planer, but this is the next best thing.
Along with what has been said, I've retrofitted old spar mills with 50HP Future Mill heads for special machining on steel bars up to 54 foot long. Nothing new here.
When you put your horizontal bars across the top, are you concerned about putting warp into the parts you know slight amount. I was thinking you just let them float and you put your pinch bolts to hold them in place I am assuming your cutter has a flat maybe a 16th of an inch wide so it says a high feed rate cutter is that what I’m gathering ?good video thank you
You could probably run that cutter way faster say around 500 SFM depending on rigidity of set up Also shift the cutter either left or right so it’s off center it will greatly improve things as well
Wouldn't you want to not crank it down to the table. If you take the bend out with clamps, then flatten it, it will spring back so its no longer straight when you unclamp it.
When you clamped it to the table because of a slight warp , when you release it the warp will still be there , also why didn't you set dowels in the groves and set. one side against a parallel and the dowel to insure the side clamps are even with each other, just use the side clamps then flip the bar and take another cut then you won't have a warped piece
Yeah, surface finish isn't great during the cleanup/roughing pass. In this case, the R8 taper face is probably the weakest link in the system, as it allows the tool to rock within the female spindle taper slightly because of the long lever arm distance. that little wasp-waisted relief undercut in front of the taper made my inner mechanical engineer cringe slightly. It's going to flex there like a madman. Surface finish looks alright in the finish pass. Probably biggest issue would be poor insert life, vs using something like 3" shell mill. A potential solution would be to check the gap with gauge block between the top of the shell mill and the female taper receiver. then, if you have a surface grinder, make up a shim washer with a slight inference fit of maybe 5-8 1/10,000
I am all for using whatever color you feel like on your machine tools but damn man, you should be charged with assault with grievous bodily harm with the green you used on that lathe! Holy balls man, no sense in trying to blind us as well as embarrass us with the lack of skill we have.
instead of wasting lots of time making all those side clamps you could have made some offset wedge T nuts. just tighten the screw and it wedges the wedge into the side of the bar.
There is no wasted time making tooling. I've used the first set for years and they have proven themselves invaluable. Not just on the planer, but the boring mill also. Building tools is only a waste of time if you never use them.
You are not obligated to donate, but the money goes to offset the costs of the cameras and editing software. Unfortunately, there isn't enough ad revenue to justify the time and expense to make these videos.
I liked the saying, “drilling is boring”.
"Drilling's boring". Very good, Josh.
I really like using 45 degree face mills. I have three Sandvik R245 face mills (3", 4" and 6"). They cut freely, can hog like crazy on a roughing pass and then make a beautiful surface finish on a finishing pass. Ken
Excellent machine capacity in a very small space, good to see an apprentice in training 👍.
Thanks for sharing
I love that planer mill conversion. It's the only one I've ever seen and I watch a lot of machine shop videos!
Passing on skills and knowledge to an apprentice that he will carry with him for the rest of his life
thumbs up to you sir 👍
Nice! I need to build some more clamps and stops for my boring mill
I am glad you showed the J head - I could see the belt in the top grooves - I have a Bridgeport clone, and usually - normally only use the face cutters in the first belt position - that makes me feel better.. I like watching your vids - you get right into it Good Onya
"Drilling is boring." Too funny. The mirror finish on the part is very impressive.
Hi Josh,
Impressive work !!!!!! Alot of ppl out there have little idea of what all this takes to produce a superior end product.....you consistently meet or exceed the customers expectations. For the uninformed, tightening on a piece of steel imparts a force into the part and actually warps it ever so so slightly...the higher the tolerance needed the greater the need to impart an even force into the part to hold it...ie: use a calibrated torque wrench to ensure the torque into the part is even and consistent and NOT imparting any warp or bow of the part...a good example would be watching a high end gunsmith and observe how he torques chamber reamers and sight fixtures and hold down screws for sight ramps.
Great to see you back in the swing of things......
Don
Thank you. Although I had one customer who I couldn't do anything right for, but they were trying to put me out of business. Words right from one of their managers after the fact.
Torque and knowing where to torque to is all a key factor in precision. Needs to be tight enough not to move, but loose enough not to warp.
When tightening the clamps, I noticed the 300mm metric crescent wrench you used. Went to Harbor Freight Tools the other day and asked for one as they only offered SAE sizes. Also probably a good idea to have those wrenches calibrated if used a lot.
Welcome back, Josh, we missed you.
Whomever determined putting a Bridgeport milling head on a metal planer was GENIUS. I marvel everytime I see you run this machine.
The bow will return when you unclamp. Perhaps I don't understand. Thanks for your time. Pete in South Carolina.
The customer.said not to worry about any bow, just a smooth surface finish and all of the proprietary features I didn't show.
That second pass turned out like glass. Woohoo....beautiful.
Josh, as a side note, when running large stock on a planer, we used angled bolt holders however we always used spotting drills for the ground points of the holding bolts & sometimes had a piece in-between that the bolts held against. With the angle we always had down thrust, carry on!!!
I've watched video's where machinist was doing the same thing with a 500k mill and didn't have as good results, Nice job Mr. Topper.
"Mirror mirror on the wall"
Gorgeous finish
Awesome Mr Topper, and fantastic job Connor. Keep up the awesome work and dedication. You have probably one of the best teachers around! Hopefully we can all meet you on the channel someday.
That second cut was really smooth. I could see the difference between the rougher first cut and the much smoother second cut. It showed up nicely on the video.
Nice work Josh.
That machine is awesome, nice finish.
Thanks for sharing.
The planer worked very well and the part looked great. I like the clamps and they are something we should think of making
Great setup and machine. Congrats on the build and efficiency of using this great addition to your capabilities. Great video as well. Thanks
Nice planner work.... and great to see your shop training an apprentice. I was one of ~1,300 apprentices at the engineering factory complex of over 60k workers. The intake of apprentices in my start year (1966) was in excess of 250. That was back in the mid sixties (hay-day?) and the numbers fell off in every subsequent year.
That's insane to me. My college only had 8 students in my manufacturing class.
@@printgymnast368 Times have changed, and not for the better...
@paulhammond7489 Yeah, but at the same time, that's good for me. Companies took advantage of American workers for decades, and when they found a slightly better deal overseas, they left American manufacturing in the dust. Now, after covid, they realized domestic production is needed for reliability and procces control. The labor shortage is going to hurt them and force them to start using automation, which is what I'm trying to learn. Idk what the future of manufacturing is, but I don't think it will be like it was in the past where companies had a steady pool of trained and skilled workers available. I honestly think manufacturing as it once was is dead. We are going to have a real issue when the old timers leave and all the skills and knowledge they have leave with them
Josh, as idea; you could put the potentiometer on low, let it run for a minute and measure the distance; then do some runs at different speed settings and take note; might make using the same tool again easier in setup next time. stick a label on the tool; done. Easy next setup.
Finish looked great, I love that machine! I use that same style cutter/insert on my Lagun knee mill, and it really performs. As you had shown, when taking roughing cuts, it sounds like shit and chatters at the start of the cut, and to a lesser degree at the end. They don't like having just one or two of the inserts in the cut. Once you get to full engagement and have three inserts cutting at the same time, it purrs like a kitten. I light finish pass like you did, is the way to go, as it really tames the tendency to chatter. Still sounds bad, and it's still there, but so small it's hard to see in the finish. Get some sharp polished inserts, and you'll love it on aluminum....looks like a mirror!
Hi Josh, always enjoy your jobs and content buddy, thanks for sharing
When working as a student with our variable speeds, we were told to go off to the side of the part, set a 0distance, then count to six with the auto feed on. We would then multiply that number by 10 and we would get a rough range of our IPM. Wish I had one of these and the workload.
I have never done any machining but watch many videos on the subject. Fascinating stuff. I look forward to your content and enjoy whatever you choose to show. I'm sure your preference to run by feel is based on talent and experience.
Josh, I am not sure how flat your bar will end up to be as you release your clamps.
If the internal stress is close to be the same on clamp release, you will inevitably still have warping.
In a future planer video, it would be nice that you address this!
For a .005'' finish pass, I would up the RPMs twofold and increase surface speed by 1.5 from roughing pass. I would also brush on a film of coolant.
Love your channel!
Love your videos!
Love your work!
Lovely day!:)
The worst one had 0.005 bow. Checked on a CMM. Tolerance was +/- 0.015.
Hi Josh, your selection of the 45 degree lead angle cutter is exactly right for facing work. You sould only use 90 degree when the job dictates it. If you look at putting a small flywheel on the arbor some where it will help stablize the cutter at entry and exit of the cut. Rule of thumb for flywheel size is twice the spindle diameter and 1 inch thick. You could easily attach it to the arnbor? Cheer Ian
Thank goodness for carbide!
Great clamps
Nicely done, nice adjustable screen you’ve made too.👍👍
machining long bars takes me back 60 years.
I held them down with finger clamps in small side holes.
I have a machine that looks like a planer like that but it was milling machine from new...
It was made in Manchester, England around 1895 and runs off flat belts from a lineshaft...
Good video
☹🇬🇧
Just found this video. I really like the content. Thanks for letting me look over your shoulder.
When I first got into the trade i was taught when milling, to always have the smallest lead in angle to the part. This puts the least amount of stress on the cutter and reduces chatter as your not plowing into the part at a steep angle. I set my cutter so the lead in edge just covers the edge of the part.
Nice video
I noticed you didn't put any shims underneath the bar stock most. of the time the stock is not flat by you pulling it down it doesn't come out straight. any reason you didn't use Shim stock to have it perfectly straight cut.
Josh I’m so glad i stumbled upon your channel great work sir ,I’ve just purchased a 8” face mill for the Bridgeport when it turned up it weighs nearly 50pounds think I might of bitten off more than I can chew or more than the Bridgeport r8 can handle 😂 late night drunk eBay purchases gotta love um, mate it’s a awesome channel keep up the great work
Got an amazon version of that cutter in 3.5 inch thats been nothing but a problem for me. Inspired me to take another look at it.
This one was surprisingly good. I bought it just for this job. Figured worst case I could run them on the HBM, but it performed great. The only thing I found was if I took less than 0.010" depth it liked to chatter. So I just took 0.015" on all of the finish cuts .
A nice surface finish is always so satisfying. I makes you handle the part with extra care so as not to damage the surface. You mentioned that the material has a slight bow along the length. Are you concerned about it springing back to that shape? Or does it matter in this case?
This gets bolted on all sides to something much more substantial. It should never move.
I love watching your videos but in this one I have to point out or ask why. If there is a bow clamping it will not take the bow out, it will return when clamps are removed. I was taught to use shim on the first side, clean that side up and flip the part to get the bow out. Also please please be careful sticking hands near the cutter when the spindle is on, I am missing the tip of a finger for doing that very same thing. Only takes once and the damage is done.
"LIKE" button has been torqued to the manufacturer's recommended specification. "CLICK".
God forbid you should be running around Wisconsin there with a loose "LIKE" button !
Nice work Josh, you created a finish anyone would be proud of!
Things are looking good with the DJI gear, but the audio was clipping a little during parts where you were speaking.
I found my DJI camera LOVES light and isn't so good in low light situations so I adjust accordingly.
hi there very interesting thanks . john
There are plenty of DROs that can display federate. That machine would have been a good candidate for one.
I have never needed to know the feed rate of a machine. I was taught by old machinists who ran by feel, sound, and finish alone. When questioned about calculating feed rate, they always said that its just a guideline, not a real world application. Over the last 24 years of doing this, I can confirm that exact statement. Especially now, with modern materials and different grades of cutters. Each tool cuts differently in each grade of material. All just guidelines, or a good starting point. Adjust from there to get it just right by sound and feel.
Nice work
If you clamped it down hard before milling because it was warped, wont the warp reappear once you unclamp it?
Hey Josh, its Jon from Colorado, i love your planner mill, i have been looking for a planner to make a machine like yours, looks like a very useful machine
When the clamps are removed does the bar bend return such that you now have a machined bar with a bend in it?
Hi, Lovely finish, not picking flys but is the head a small moment out of tram as no full circle of cut, which could explain it no like cutting the other way as get 2 depth of cuts in 1 set up.
Steve
It is by only 0.002, which makes it perfect for long facing cuts.
I have the 6" cutter on a R8 spindle and a 3 hp motor. Great vid for me. I've been told it wouldn't work on an R8 spindle. Thanks. Subscribed now.
Good stuff
Love the conversion mill what a great idea been around them a long time but never thought about breeding them together awesome job love the old manual machines used to have a screw machine shop with secondary machines threading shaper broaching centerless grinder lots of Cincinnati mills and grinders surface grinder retired now but still have a little garage shop mill lathe surface grinder kolee tool makers grinder etc. great videos keep them coming thanks
I am glad that your helper is working out well for you. It is interesting to watch you work. I wish that I could have met you at Hungry Hollow. How nice that the cutter is wide enough to cover the width of the part in one pass. What a nice finish. Good job on the video and the project. Thanks for posting the video.
I'd say this Josh. Looks like it's pulling a good speed and feed. Because the chips coming out pretty decent. Also Keith is saying, and have a very pleasant July 4th holiday. Take care now...
A question. When you clamped it down with two bars (around 05:30) I wondered: can you trust the lower surface to be flat? If it is raised in the middle and you clamp it down it will bow. After milling the topside it will distort with a low in the middle. How do you go about that?
I mostly just planned ahead. Put the bow up. Mill flat then it sits flat on the other side. I didn't catch it on all of them, but the tolerances we're wide open. They went through my customers CMM and they said the worst deviation they saw was 0.005. Print called for 2.40" thick +/- 0.015.
I noticed that Josh clamped near the ends so the upward bow in the center was only slightly affected. He could have shimmed under the bar but the tolerances made it unnecessary.
That was very satisfying to watch
btw have you thought of putting some sacrificial pieces between the clamps and the workpiece? Might at least be a good idea when clamping on finished surfaces.
Depending on the job, I have used aluminum pads. They leave little to no marks on most work.
@@TopperMachineLLC sir,your machine mechanism use gear or threaded rod (X axiz)🤝👍
I have a question for you Josh: When you pull it down to the table because it had some warp, wouldn't that spring back into when released? Why is it better to pull it down rather than leave warped, then take out the warp when you machine the other side? Wouldn't it's "resting" position be best, like folks have to do when grinding large castings?
Depends on the application. This particular job was best to clamp rigid to the table and make it the way I did. Other applications this may not be acceptable.
Planer table lube question. How are you lubing the ways or is your planer table running on captured roller guides. I worry that at low speed your not hydroplaning on a layer of lube lifting the table from metal to metal contact but degrading the surface finish for planer life.
It is an oil bath system. I have wondered this as well over the several years I've had it and the years the previous owner had it. I check the ways frequently and there is a lot of oil and no wear. But, in the end, a machine is a consumable. It is purchased or built to do a job and when it wears out it gets rebuilt or replaced. This machine has well paid for itself and owes me nothing. If I get 25 more years out of it or just two weeks, it's earned it's keep.
that's like surface grind quality
Thanks for sharing.
Josh, what make and model is that lime green lathe? Almost looks like a monarch CK
Slick set-up Josh. I had a dozen or so table clamps like that but they grew legs or something. Or someone needed the material for an emergency job...anyway they are sorely missed and i need to find the time to make new ones. Did you turn and thread your bolts or did you buy them ? They look like a fine thread as well. Thanks for another cool video. Cheers from Canada.
The clamps all use 7/8-14 B7 threaded rod. No point in making the bolts when the rod is readily available and cheap. They have been super handy. Definitely worth making more.
Doesn't your DRO tell you the feed rate? Mine does. Comes in handly.
Won't that part spring back a little once the clamps are released?
What is the reason for cutting in one direction only. There is no climb milling when the cutter is much larger than the work piece. Is this some sort of mechanical limitation in the mill? It seems it ought to cut equally well from either direction.
I really like your Planer Mill. It is such a great idea, I was wondering if you filed a patent. I'm surprised other shops haven't adopted the idea and repurposed Old Planers like the one you used. KOKO!
I have seen a few over the years. But not too often. Most people see an obsolete planer and just scrap it without thinking outside the box. I honestly wish it was still a planer, but this is the next best thing.
Both ingersoll and futurmill were building spindle heads for planers at least as far back as the 1940s
Along with what has been said, I've retrofitted old spar mills with 50HP Future Mill heads for special machining on steel bars up to 54 foot long. Nothing new here.
@@TopperMachineLLC sir,your machine mechanism use gear or threaded rod (X axiz)🤝👍
Интересно что за звуки ударов в голове фрезерного станка? Уже не первый раз слышу эти стуки именно на этой модели станка...
They are a bit sloppy in the head and drive. They also amplify the noise like a megaphone. But, super reliable and parts are readily available
@@TopperMachineLLC Ahhh, OK. I also really like this mill.👍
Not gonna lie you got me in the title
When you put your horizontal bars across the top, are you concerned about putting warp into the parts you know slight amount.
I was thinking you just let them float and you put your pinch bolts to hold them in place
I am assuming your cutter has a flat maybe a 16th of an inch wide so it says a high feed rate cutter is that what I’m gathering ?good video thank you
The customer asked it done this way. They were far more concerned with a uniform thickness than a bow.
"Drilling is boring." I see what you did there.
Cool equipment and awesome cut, but, good god, why are you putting your hand an inch away from an active tool? 17:40
Yes, I do agree; drilling can be boring in a matter of speaking.
You could probably run that cutter way faster say around 500 SFM depending on rigidity of set up
Also shift the cutter either left or right so it’s off center it will greatly improve things as well
Did anyone notice the music, that cutter is making combined with the background track. I mean the motor noise.
What’s the Z axis TIR over its full length of travel?
Surprisingly good. About 0.002". Most of the jobs I see come in are +/- 0.015
Who would pair a 5 inch head with an R8 spindle ?
Wouldn't you want to not crank it down to the table. If you take the bend out with clamps, then flatten it, it will spring back so its no longer straight when you unclamp it.
When you clamped it to the table because of a slight warp , when you release it the warp will still be there , also why didn't you set dowels in the groves and set. one side against a parallel and the dowel to insure the side clamps are even with each other, just use the side clamps then flip the bar and take another cut then you won't have a warped piece
what is DRO stand for sir?
“Digital Read Out”
IHi. Do you still have an apprentice?.
Yes, he was mentioned in the video.
Yeah, surface finish isn't great during the cleanup/roughing pass. In this case, the R8 taper face is probably the weakest link in the system, as it allows the tool to rock within the female spindle taper slightly because of the long lever arm distance. that little wasp-waisted relief undercut in front of the taper made my inner mechanical engineer cringe slightly. It's going to flex there like a madman. Surface finish looks alright in the finish pass. Probably biggest issue would be poor insert life, vs using something like 3" shell mill. A potential solution would be to check the gap with gauge block between the top of the shell mill and the female taper receiver. then, if you have a surface grinder, make up a shim washer with a slight inference fit of maybe 5-8 1/10,000
I am all for using whatever color you feel like on your machine tools but damn man, you should be charged with assault with grievous bodily harm with the green you used on that lathe! Holy balls man, no sense in trying to blind us as well as embarrass us with the lack of skill we have.
Says the guy with dro on all his machines.
It must be an optical illusion, but in this video the cutting tool is rotating in the wrong direction.
Everytime you throw a wrench or tool on your mill table you put a ding in it. Keep your tools off your machine and it will last longer.
frame rate makes it look like you are running the head in reverse.
instead of wasting lots of time making all those side clamps you could have made some offset wedge T nuts.
just tighten the screw and it wedges the wedge into the side of the bar.
There is no wasted time making tooling. I've used the first set for years and they have proven themselves invaluable. Not just on the planer, but the boring mill also. Building tools is only a waste of time if you never use them.
WTH is that knocking?
Really hate that you ask or PayPal donations
You are not obligated to donate, but the money goes to offset the costs of the cameras and editing software. Unfortunately, there isn't enough ad revenue to justify the time and expense to make these videos.