.....can we all just take a moment to appreciate the fact that those flies didnt carry Johnno away & eat him.......m8...what a Magnificent Pano...you certainly raise the bar.
I’ve watched many videos on tracked panoramas, but yours have been the most informative, addressing the numerous not so obvious details that make the difference between success and failure. Thanks!
'undoing the clutch and re-leveling after every second shot' is what i needed to know. Your videos are so informative and can't wait to go out and try something new after watching every one. Thanks man. very much appreciated... now i need some darker nights and clear skies 🤪 👌
@@pianomusicbyvalentinh.6869 yes the tracker stays on all the time, just give it a couple of seconds to resttle before taking another exposure (use touchscrren or intervolometer to reduce any camera shake/movement efter releveling
It seems to me that when shooting the sky frames of the panorama one would want to do so rotating the camera about the “horizontal” and “vertical” axes with respect to the sky (celestial) frame of reference. This is what the polar aligned mount achieves, compensating for the earth’s rotation. Frequent “re-leveling” introduces undesirable field rotation between frames of the sky component of the panorama. The shooting procedure becomes simpler too, with only advancement along each row with incremental rotation about the “vertical” axis, and advancement to the next row by incremental rotation about the “horizontal” axis. It can all be done by the numbers given the desired angle between rows and angle between frames in a row. Meanwhile the mount is left to continue doing its job undisturbed. When the landscape row is shot the mount is stopped, returned to counterweight down position and the landscape row is shot rotating about the vertical axis with respect to the earth frame of reference. The landscape and sky are stitched separately, then combined. The sky will require some rotation in the process. That’s the theory. I will have to wait for spring storms to cease and our sky to clear to test theory against practice and will no doubt come away older, wiser, and humbled.
There are many ways to skin cats, I do it the way I do cos it works for me and it's what I have found the easiest over hundreds of tracked panos. You arr correct about frame rotation but stitching software has no issues with this. I look forward too see what you come up with.
Its amazing to see the commitment you put into each pano! The amount of planning and steps involved in shooting is crazy. But that's why your images are incredible! Those flies though, I would be losing my shit
Cheers man, it's not everyone's cup of tea but how I go about it works for me. Oh and I was losing my shit at the bloody flies, I might have to do an out takes video 🤣
I will try your foreground technique of shooting two rows high. Never thought of that, but it makes sense. The angle of the shot gives the building a natural 3d look like the viewer is on location. The colors and air glow are superb. These are the colors you see when you are truly in a dark sky area. I have only seen the Milky Way like that in Great Basin National Park Nevada. Also, thats a great freakin piece of art.
Yeah definitely dark skies. The foreground size is totally dependent on how many rows the sky is, if I shot a sky that is only 1 row, for instance with a 20mm lens then you could get away with one row for foreground, but when the sky is multiple rows, to keep the ratio looking right the foreground needs to be multiple rows too.
@@johnrutterphotography thanks for reply, i use the SA mini and there for i am limited with the weight. I still figure out if its better to use 2 Ballheads or the V+Z-Mount
Hi John, great video. I just discovered your channel, your milky way photos are bang on some of the best I've come across! I started Astrophotography with DSOs over the past 1.5 or so. Just now starting my own Milky Way journey. I picked up a Sony 14mm f1.8 for Astro + Landscapes. I'd love to get your advice on ideal exposure length, the lens is crazy fast. Also, maybe a video suggestion for us newbies as well on how to find focus on the wide lenses (I've tried both infinity and batinov type masks) and how to blend foreground shots with sky shots. Keep them coming!
Thanks Ted, optimal exposure totally depends on location, sky quality, how your imaging eg. Tracking. So I can't give you an answer on that. Thanks for the suggestions, I do have a video on how to blend and edit already on my channel that might help you out.
I was sure I knew something about panos, but man, my head started to hurt :D so much new knowledge in 9minutes. And it goes without saying the image is just fantastic, like always!
@@johnrutterphotography thanks John mate, I just traded the 14mm for a 50mm and 24mm and feel its time to progress into mosaics/panos. Might have a couple more questions for you yet! Great videos you have on here really helpful
Moving from a gimbal head to a star-tracker has been a bit of a challange, so thanks for sharing your techniques. For now I'm just looking to shoot with 30mm Vertical in a single row pano, but would like to go with 2min x3 stacked images. I'm guessing that I should be ok capturing the 3 images, releveling, rotating and doing again until the pano is complete. Thoughts?
Thank you so much for the video. Can you suggest a link for the indexing panoramma head please? Aslo you have another video that talks about using a z bracket with a star tracker. Which would be your preferred setup and why?
ruclips.net/video/ig5nd5pxLiE/видео.html that's a video where I go through my setup and all the links are in the description for the stuff I use, I was using the z bracket but found the knobs a bit fiddley in the dark so now I use a ball head to get my level base
Thanks mate, I have never taken parallax into account for any image, and so far I've had no issues with stitching or any artefacts 🤞 but if I ever do il modify the setup to fix that.
i guess it was a positional choice having the core in the middle of the picture , as to why you didn't go vertical like the last pano ? and your computer must have had fits over the amount of megapixels it had to deal with. Again awesome pano mate .
Yes it was a composition choice to shoot with the core in the middle, as for why I didn't shoot vertical rows.... I only did that for my last image to "kill" time in the western sky while the core rose in the east. And by the time I had worked all the way around the core had risen, this image I wanted the core to be as high as possible so I had to shoot from the top down to give it time to be as high as possible when I locked it into the horizon. It's a very hard thing to explain in a msg.
Amazing videos. That would be nice to add the shots of that sky we could look at them while you explain the process. if I understood the process when you re-level the mount the camera should not be on vertical anymore to match the previous shot in order to keep the lateral of the frame parallel to the previous shot.
In a previous video on my channel about how I shoot tracked panoramas, I show the sky image, and show how the re level causes steps in the image. Hope that video answers your question
@@johnrutterphotography thank you. I saw it. I refered to the ones used at this video since we would be watching you at the sametime looking at the shots. Why do not keep not re-leveling it? Would not it keep the framing consitent along the panorama shooting?
I missed to watch this video earlier. This is very helpful indeed. The very first video you did in the studio did not really make me understand but this one is bang on 👍👍👍 Are you able to disclose which ball head model and which tilt head model are you using? Thanks
Thanks for sharing you technic its very helpful and great final image. When shooting the top rows do you take extra shots on the sides to allow for the high angle or is each row the same number of shots?
My pleasure mate 👍, how many images I take for a top row does depend on how high I shoot, so at the moment with the core very high I do take a couple of extras just to make sure I've covered everything, but if the arch isn't so high I don't bother
Another epic image John! I think you've mentioned it before but what Pano rotator and Pano height adjuster are you using? And this was shot at 35mm with the samyang 35mm?
This is Anupam Naskar... Your planning and technique is fantastic.. I m doing milkyway photography from last 2 years... Just a quorisity.. Is Tracker really needed / helpful for milky Pano ?
You changed from the Z brackets to a new set up. Were you frustrated by their sagging? And now you are using the trackers gear lock for releveling. This seems reasonable to me.
I didn't have any issues with sagging, it was more so the small knobs on them were hard to use in the dark, maybe their version 2 that's coming will fix that issue
So if you're re leveling every two images you were shooting at three minutes? Or re set level after 6 minutes depending on what exposure time you choose
I was shooting 3 minute exposures, so I had to choose between re levelling after every shot or every second shot, if I was shooting 2.5 minutes exposures I'd still re level after 2 shots,or if I shot 1 minutes exposures id then just choose something in between, say every 4, there is no exact time that's best but I wouldn't push it past 6 minutes normally
.....can we all just take a moment to appreciate the fact that those flies didnt carry Johnno away & eat him.......m8...what a Magnificent Pano...you certainly raise the bar.
Haha cheers mate. They are brutal out there
crazy crisp and very clear explanation, thanks alot
Thankyou, your most welcome
I’ve watched many videos on tracked panoramas, but yours have been the most informative, addressing the numerous not so obvious details that make the difference between success and failure. Thanks!
Awesome Michael 👌 I'm glad they helped out.
Kuddos to you for just getting through with all the bugs bugging you. Looks like they were relentless.
Haha thanks mate, they were definitely persistent
dude those bugs were INSANE it's like you're the only living thing around for them to suck on lol. australia seems wild
They are brutal out there! But they actually get alot worse than that. It is a wild old place
'undoing the clutch and re-leveling after every second shot' is what i needed to know. Your videos are so informative and can't wait to go out and try something new after watching every one. Thanks man. very much appreciated... now i need some darker nights and clear skies 🤪 👌
Good luck! 👍 glad it helped
When I undo the clutch and relevel, can the tracker be on during this process? Or does this hurt the mechanism?
@@johnrutterphotography When I undo the clutch and relevel, can the tracker be on during this process? Or does this hurt the mechanism?
@@pianomusicbyvalentinh.6869 yes the tracker stays on all the time, just give it a couple of seconds to resttle before taking another exposure (use touchscrren or intervolometer to reduce any camera shake/movement efter releveling
Clear instruction this is John. HAve you cganged the Z flex tilt for another ballhead type on top? Why is taht and what is the make?
Awesome mate it now makes sense.....based on those questions I asked......about re leveling...bloody awesome.
Glad it helped mate 👍
Super insight John thank you so much for sharing
Your most welcome Paul 🙏
hey, thanks for all the info. i didnt quite get why i need to re-level the mount though? cheers
Hey John, cheers for sharing this video.
I’d like to ask you what software you use to stack all the pics.
Thanks.
Hi mate, I use ptgui to stitch panoramas and sequator for stacking if I do any
Cracking result mate the data is nice and clean and that airglow is practically fluorescent !
Thanks mate, the glow out there was crazy every night.
Amazing image as always John. I'm not missing those flies though mate . ..!!!!
Thanks mate, they are crazy hey! At least I didn't eat any this time.
Very nice info John. Appreciate the content.
My pleasure mate 👍
Amazing work, terrific !
I appreciate that mate 👍
It seems to me that when shooting the sky frames of the panorama one would want to do so rotating the camera about the “horizontal” and “vertical” axes with respect to the sky (celestial) frame of reference. This is what the polar aligned mount achieves, compensating for the earth’s rotation. Frequent “re-leveling” introduces undesirable field rotation between frames of the sky component of the panorama. The shooting procedure becomes simpler too, with only advancement along each row with incremental rotation about the “vertical” axis, and advancement to the next row by incremental rotation about the “horizontal” axis. It can all be done by the numbers given the desired angle between rows and angle between frames in a row. Meanwhile the mount is left to continue doing its job undisturbed. When the landscape row is shot the mount is stopped, returned to counterweight down position and the landscape row is shot rotating about the vertical axis with respect to the earth frame of reference. The landscape and sky are stitched separately, then combined. The sky will require some rotation in the process. That’s the theory. I will have to wait for spring storms to cease and our sky to clear to test theory against practice and will no doubt come away older, wiser, and humbled.
There are many ways to skin cats, I do it the way I do cos it works for me and it's what I have found the easiest over hundreds of tracked panos. You arr correct about frame rotation but stitching software has no issues with this. I look forward too see what you come up with.
Thanks for sharing your process, it has so far helped me greatly with capturing panos. The final image is savage, well done John.
My pleasure mate, glad it's helped you out. 👍 thankyou.
Great final image John. Solid information on the technique as is usual with your videos. Keep them coming mate! 👍😀
Cheers geoff 👍
I am about to go out with my new version of the set up using a v plate and a 2 way head on that... we shall see! Gonna go get me some meteors
Its amazing to see the commitment you put into each pano! The amount of planning and steps involved in shooting is crazy. But that's why your images are incredible! Those flies though, I would be losing my shit
Cheers man, it's not everyone's cup of tea but how I go about it works for me.
Oh and I was losing my shit at the bloody flies, I might have to do an out takes video 🤣
@@johnrutterphotography definitely up for seeing that haha
Mate that was a ripper video & a great way of showing/explaining ur processes….keep ‘em up mate-loving it 👍
Cheers mate, 🍻 glad you are enjoying the content 👍
I will try your foreground technique of shooting two rows high. Never thought of that, but it makes sense. The angle of the shot gives the building a natural 3d look like the viewer is on location. The colors and air glow are superb. These are the colors you see when you are truly in a dark sky area. I have only seen the Milky Way like that in Great Basin National Park Nevada. Also, thats a great freakin piece of art.
Yeah definitely dark skies. The foreground size is totally dependent on how many rows the sky is, if I shot a sky that is only 1 row, for instance with a 20mm lens then you could get away with one row for foreground, but when the sky is multiple rows, to keep the ratio looking right the foreground needs to be multiple rows too.
Hey John, great Video. My i ask why u stoped use the msm Z-Mount?
Thanks mate, the toggles were to small and fiddley and there was a little bit of flex in the mount that caused issues when it's windy
@@johnrutterphotography thanks for reply, i use the SA mini and there for i am limited with the weight. I still figure out if its better to use 2 Ballheads or the V+Z-Mount
@@johnrutterphotography by the way, you really helped me to understand how to shoot a tracked/stacked Pano. I am so tahnkful for that
You're honestly my favorite RUclipsr RN! 😝
That's not saying much for wat else is out there then 🤣🤣
Hi John, great video. I just discovered your channel, your milky way photos are bang on some of the best I've come across! I started Astrophotography with DSOs over the past 1.5 or so. Just now starting my own Milky Way journey. I picked up a Sony 14mm f1.8 for Astro + Landscapes. I'd love to get your advice on ideal exposure length, the lens is crazy fast. Also, maybe a video suggestion for us newbies as well on how to find focus on the wide lenses (I've tried both infinity and batinov type masks) and how to blend foreground shots with sky shots. Keep them coming!
Thanks Ted, optimal exposure totally depends on location, sky quality, how your imaging eg. Tracking. So I can't give you an answer on that.
Thanks for the suggestions, I do have a video on how to blend and edit already on my channel that might help you out.
Wow really helpful. Going out in two weeks.
Awesome mate, hope you get clear skies
I was sure I knew something about panos, but man, my head started to hurt :D so much new knowledge in 9minutes. And it goes without saying the image is just fantastic, like always!
Thanks mate, 👍 it's easier for you guys where the core doesn't get overhead like it does here.
Thanks John great work. What indexing panorama head are you rocking may I ask?
Thanks mate 👍
The one I use is fittest DH-55D but they arr all the same as long as you can adjust the pin for different overlaps
@@johnrutterphotography thanks John mate, I just traded the 14mm for a 50mm and 24mm and feel its time to progress into mosaics/panos. Might have a couple more questions for you yet! Great videos you have on here really helpful
Moving from a gimbal head to a star-tracker has been a bit of a challange, so thanks for sharing your techniques. For now I'm just looking to shoot with 30mm Vertical in a single row pano, but would like to go with 2min x3 stacked images. I'm guessing that I should be ok capturing the 3 images, releveling, rotating and doing again until the pano is complete. Thoughts?
My pleasure mate, yeah what your planning will definitely work. I sometimes to the same thing on smaller panoramas
Thank you so much for the video. Can you suggest a link for the indexing panoramma head please? Aslo you have another video that talks about using a z bracket with a star tracker. Which would be your preferred setup and why?
ruclips.net/video/ig5nd5pxLiE/видео.html that's a video where I go through my setup and all the links are in the description for the stuff I use, I was using the z bracket but found the knobs a bit fiddley in the dark so now I use a ball head to get my level base
Great demonstration John and the result is most excellent. Did you have to take parallax into account for the stone house?
Thanks mate, I have never taken parallax into account for any image, and so far I've had no issues with stitching or any artefacts 🤞 but if I ever do il modify the setup to fix that.
@@johnrutterphotography Interesting. Thanks for the response!
i guess it was a positional choice having the core in the middle of the picture , as to why you didn't go vertical like the last pano ? and your computer must have had fits over the amount of megapixels it had to deal with. Again awesome pano mate .
Yes it was a composition choice to shoot with the core in the middle, as for why I didn't shoot vertical rows.... I only did that for my last image to "kill" time in the western sky while the core rose in the east. And by the time I had worked all the way around the core had risen, this image I wanted the core to be as high as possible so I had to shoot from the top down to give it time to be as high as possible when I locked it into the horizon. It's a very hard thing to explain in a msg.
Amazing videos. That would be nice to add the shots of that sky we could look at them while you explain the process. if I understood the process when you re-level the mount the camera should not be on vertical anymore to match the previous shot in order to keep the lateral of the frame parallel to the previous shot.
In a previous video on my channel about how I shoot tracked panoramas, I show the sky image, and show how the re level causes steps in the image. Hope that video answers your question
@@johnrutterphotography thank you. I saw it. I refered to the ones used at this video since we would be watching you at the sametime looking at the shots. Why do not keep not re-leveling it? Would not it keep the framing consitent along the panorama shooting?
I am planning a trip to shoot a tracked Milky Way pano later this month (April 2023). Need all the help I can get!
Good luck and I hope you get clear skies ✨️
I missed to watch this video earlier.
This is very helpful indeed.
The very first video you did in the studio did not really make me understand but this one is bang on 👍👍👍
Are you able to disclose which ball head model and which tilt head model are you using?
Thanks
amzn.to/3aqgYp8
amzn.to/38OCseU
links to both
Thanks for sharing you technic its very helpful and great final image. When shooting the top rows do you take extra shots on the sides to allow for the high angle or is each row the same number of shots?
My pleasure mate 👍, how many images I take for a top row does depend on how high I shoot, so at the moment with the core very high I do take a couple of extras just to make sure I've covered everything, but if the arch isn't so high I don't bother
Great video and awesome image. When you are shooting the foreground do you still have the tracker tracking?
Thanks mate, no the tracker is off for the foreground
Another epic image John! I think you've mentioned it before but what Pano rotator and Pano height adjuster are you using? And this was shot at 35mm with the samyang 35mm?
Thanks mate, yes the samyang 35 1.4 and all the info and links to what I'm using are In my video; make tracked panoramas easy
This is Anupam Naskar... Your planning and technique is fantastic.. I m doing milkyway photography from last 2 years... Just a quorisity.. Is Tracker really needed / helpful for milky Pano ?
Hi mate, it's not needed at all, but is definitely helpfull to get more detail and cleaner images.
You changed from the Z brackets to a new set up. Were you frustrated by their sagging? And now you are using the trackers gear lock for releveling. This seems reasonable to me.
I didn't have any issues with sagging, it was more so the small knobs on them were hard to use in the dark, maybe their version 2 that's coming will fix that issue
So if you're re leveling every two images you were shooting at three minutes? Or re set level after 6 minutes depending on what exposure time you choose
I was shooting 3 minute exposures, so I had to choose between re levelling after every shot or every second shot, if I was shooting 2.5 minutes exposures I'd still re level after 2 shots,or if I shot 1 minutes exposures id then just choose something in between, say every 4, there is no exact time that's best but I wouldn't push it past 6 minutes normally
Класс 🙌
Thankyou