Have done my share of surgery on autoharps. Missing Springs (and screws) seems to happen more when working on a hard work surface. I've found that spreading a towel over the work surface, then placing the autoharp on the towel, stops most small items from bouncing/rolling out of sight. Also helps prevent scratches/damage to surface and autoharp. The towel being a contrasting color can also help visually spot attempted escapees. Using a bowl to contain small items does work, till something hits/tips the bowl, and everything within makes a run for freedom. For small metallic items (springs, screws, etc.) I now use a card style magnet, one of the many that once covered my refrigerator. Since adopting this method I've only had one successful escapee. That one assisted by a cat that sacrificed one of his 9 lives that day. And knowing that particular cat, he may not have many lives left. That escapee... has never been found, still MIA.
I just purchased a new OS Limited Edition Electric Autoharp. (it was advertised as having a built-in tuner, it doesn't.) If I had seen your videos beforehand, I would not have purchased it. I am in the midst of operating on it to fix the "rattle" from the buttons; to lower the buttons, and Yikes, what a tedious job! (The adult beverage is a great idea...although I didn't drink before I started with this.) I hope that after my modifications to the harp, I will finally get to hear some pleasing tones out of it. Thank you for you all of your videos, Hal. After all this is finished, I just have to learn how to play it.
I just completed this operation with a couple of differences compared to your demonstration/tutorial (which I found enlightening and helpful). The two things I did differently was I used a foam sheet instead of felt and I used an exacto knife to cut the foam sheet, nearly flush with the holes. Works like a charm, now I have a smooth, quiet instrument with a significantly lowered action. Took me about an hour and a half. Thank you for the idea, sir and perhaps these two variations may help some others looking to improve their instrument.
By the way, I have a shortcut. I buy replacement covers from Bob Lewis. He sells a deluxe cover that already has the felt in place with the holes cut for the chord bar buttons. Then I adjust the height of the bars by shimming the ends with extra strips of felt.
God video Hal! I have only a 12 and a 15-bar harp but there is some unwelcome clunking when releasing the bar and some play from side to side which I’d like to reduce. This was very encouraging and I feel more confident now in modifying the action and even consider getting a 21-bar mod kit. Thanks!
Excellent tutorial. I wondered if it might be easier to cut the felt with a razor knife. Cheaper than scissors and might be more precise. I’ll give it a try when I modify my harp. I really appreciate your lessons and right now I’m going to your web site to make a contribution.
I just replaced my 15 chord OS with a 21 chord set, so I am totally ready to open her up again. I use very fine exacto knives a lot and wonder if they would be much easier than scissors. I guess I will find out. I love the idea of picking out a colorful felt!
Very helpful. You might consider making a key shaped punch out of a utility blade and then punch out the holes with a mallet. Thanks so much, take care of that shoulder.
I think I would have traced the button holes onto the felt and then cut the holes, fitting the button through for size and then glued to the inside...It would be easier to hold the felt while cutting. It would be faster too. If after the felt is glued in, the buttons are still a bit tight, I'd use a sharp pair of curved blade manicure scissors to finely trim to the right size opening. Just a thought/suggestion. :)
Seems like I tried that; many years ago when I first learned that method. It must not have given a good result, though I can't remember why anymore. That being said, I'm moving away from this particular method and using other techniques now. I have yet to do an update video on it.
@@wildautoharp thanks for replying, I'm sure if you tried that method before without a good result then it's not the way to go. Looking forward to an updated video on this subject when you get time. I am in the process of buying my first Autoharp & your videos have been invaluable and a great source of information. Many thanks coming from the West Coast of Canada!
This is a wonderful demonstration. I wonder if there might be a better, faster tool than scissors for cutting the holes in the felt. I'm thinking of something like a small sheet metal nibbling tool or something like that.
There is a small bowl sold that is metal with a magnet on the bottom covered with rubber. The magnet will keep tight on a metal surface plus keep the metal spring safely in the bowl.
Your harp needs re=felting so ypu buy new felt for it and when you try and install that felt it refuses to stick to the cord bar with the sticky section of the new felt. What do yopu do now to make that felt stick to the cord bar... use Tribond glue or maybe Super glue?
Can I change my 21 chord to a 15 chord? I really don’t like the “hood” that goes over the bar chords. I can’t play the 21 due to arthritis in my left hand for chording. I don’t want to play it laying flat on my lap.
I'm about to do this with my OSC 21C. I've noticed that the 3 rows of chords D, D7, A, A7) close to where the strings are anchored sound rather less than stellar, sort of dead, dull, thwacky, not sure how else to describe it. Anyway would doing this improve the sound quality at all? I've moved them up 3 spaces towards the center of the 'harp and moved the 3 rows at the top nearest the tuning pins down to where the D, D7, A & A7 were. That's improved the sound a bit. Will the procedure you've showed here help? Thanks Hal!
Unfortunately, this will do nothing for the tone of your bottom chord bars. Those always sound rough on just about any harp except maybe a d'Aigle Cascade...and they always take more pressure to push down.
@@wildautoharp Thanks, I figured that was the case. I've actually considered drilling new holes and moving the chord assembly up about a inch but am very reluctant to do that.
@@lindaberg1695 Better to move all the chord bars that you want to use UP, and rotate the ones from the top (that you don't use very often, assuming that's so) DOWN...and even turn them into OTHER chords that you won't use very often, but that fit the circle of 5ths appropriately. For example, on an OS they give you things like Aflat, Cmin, Eflat, Bflat7 etc...they are up at the top....and I never used them...so I turn them into things I WILL use, from the sharp side of the circle, like Bmin, F#min, E, B, C#min, even F#maj....that gets your key of A and D more up towards the middle. You won't PLAY the key of E, but it will serve the function for borrowed chords when you need them. That bottom inch or so is wasted space. I sacrificed my key of F entirely, and put on a full key of E.
@@wildautoharp Thanks so much for the suggestion, I was thinking of trying that procedure. I do like the F Key, as it's one of the keys I sing best in. I'll do some experimenting and try this out. Luckily I have the Autoharp Manual that shows the Circle of Fifths. I'll give this a go this afternoon. Thanks so much my near south of the 49th neighbour! :) I'll let you know how it works out. :)
Great mod! I recently got an OS21C that has loose buttons. I like the felt solution. Think it could work with a sheet of denser, cross-link foam too? Might be easier to cut out the holes...
Have done my share of surgery on autoharps. Missing Springs (and screws) seems to happen more when working on a hard work surface. I've found that spreading a towel over the work surface, then placing the autoharp on the towel, stops most small items from bouncing/rolling out of sight. Also helps prevent scratches/damage to surface and autoharp. The towel being a contrasting color can also help visually spot attempted escapees. Using a bowl to contain small items does work, till something hits/tips the bowl, and everything within makes a run for freedom. For small metallic items (springs, screws, etc.) I now use a card style magnet, one of the many that once covered my refrigerator. Since adopting this method I've only had one successful escapee. That one assisted by a cat that sacrificed one of his 9 lives that day. And knowing that particular cat, he may not have many lives left. That escapee... has never been found, still MIA.
I just purchased a new OS Limited Edition Electric Autoharp. (it was advertised as having a built-in tuner, it doesn't.) If I had seen your videos beforehand, I would not have purchased it. I am in the midst of operating on it to fix the "rattle" from the buttons; to lower the buttons, and Yikes, what a tedious job! (The adult beverage is a great idea...although I didn't drink before I started with this.) I hope that after my modifications to the harp, I will finally get to hear some pleasing tones out of it. Thank you for you all of your videos, Hal. After all this is finished, I just have to learn how to play it.
I just completed this operation with a couple of differences compared to your demonstration/tutorial (which I found enlightening and helpful). The two things I did differently was I used a foam sheet instead of felt and I used an exacto knife to cut the foam sheet, nearly flush with the holes. Works like a charm, now I have a smooth, quiet instrument with a significantly lowered action. Took me about an hour and a half. Thank you for the idea, sir and perhaps these two variations may help some others looking to improve their instrument.
This is information EVERY autoharp player needs to know. Thanks, Hal!
By the way, I have a shortcut. I buy replacement covers from Bob Lewis. He sells a deluxe cover that already has the felt in place with the holes cut for the chord bar buttons. Then I adjust the height of the bars by shimming the ends with extra strips of felt.
You are a wonderful instructor!
God video Hal! I have only a 12 and a 15-bar harp but there is some unwelcome clunking when releasing the bar and some play from side to side which I’d like to reduce. This was very encouraging and I feel more confident now in modifying the action and even consider getting a 21-bar mod kit. Thanks!
Very nice, thanks for this!
Hey sure thing.
Thanks Hal, We are going to try it out on an old one
Excellent tutorial. I wondered if it might be easier to cut the felt with a razor knife. Cheaper than scissors and might be more precise. I’ll give it a try when I modify my harp. I really appreciate your lessons and right now I’m going to your web site to make a contribution.
I just replaced my 15 chord OS with a 21 chord set, so I am totally ready to open her up again. I use very fine exacto knives a lot and wonder if they would be much easier than scissors. I guess I will find out. I love the idea of picking out a colorful felt!
Very helpful. You might consider making a key shaped punch out of a utility blade and then punch out the holes with a mallet. Thanks so much, take care of that shoulder.
I think I would have traced the button holes onto the felt and then cut the holes, fitting the button through for size and then glued to the inside...It would be easier to hold the felt while cutting. It would be faster too. If after the felt is glued in, the buttons are still a bit tight, I'd use a sharp pair of curved blade manicure scissors to finely trim to the right size opening. Just a thought/suggestion. :)
Seems like I tried that; many years ago when I first learned that method. It must not have given a good result, though I can't remember why anymore. That being said, I'm moving away from this particular method and using other techniques now. I have yet to do an update video on it.
@@wildautoharp thanks for replying, I'm sure if you tried that method before without a good result then it's not the way to go. Looking forward to an updated video on this subject when you get time. I am in the process of buying my first Autoharp & your videos have been invaluable and a great source of information. Many thanks coming from the West Coast of Canada!
This is a wonderful demonstration. I wonder if there might be a better, faster tool than scissors for cutting the holes in the felt. I'm thinking of something like a small sheet metal nibbling tool or something like that.
There is a small bowl sold that is metal with a magnet on the bottom covered with rubber. The magnet will keep tight on a metal surface plus keep the metal spring safely in the bowl.
Great idea!
Cats are, indeed, the biggest risk factor of autoharp repairs. I have two. Weep for me.
Your harp needs re=felting so ypu buy new felt for it and when you try and install that felt it refuses to stick to the cord bar with the sticky section of the new felt. What do yopu do now to make that felt stick to the cord bar... use Tribond glue or maybe Super glue?
I like insidious canned royalty-free music, if it has a southern rock vibe. :)
Ha! I forgot that I used that in this one!
Can I change my 21 chord to a 15 chord? I really don’t like the “hood” that goes over the bar chords. I can’t play the 21 due to arthritis in my left hand for chording. I don’t want to play it laying flat on my lap.
What if you have a 15-chord autoharp with no cover? How do you fix loose buttons?
Superglue for the 15 chord
Would fingernail scissors work? They are curved?
Yes! As long as they are sharp and little.
I'm about to do this with my OSC 21C. I've noticed that the 3 rows of chords D, D7, A, A7) close to where the strings are anchored sound rather less than stellar, sort of dead, dull, thwacky, not sure how else to describe it. Anyway would doing this improve the sound quality at all? I've moved them up 3 spaces towards the center of the 'harp and moved the 3 rows at the top nearest the tuning pins down to where the D, D7, A & A7 were. That's improved the sound a bit. Will the procedure you've showed here help? Thanks Hal!
Unfortunately, this will do nothing for the tone of your bottom chord bars. Those always sound rough on just about any harp except maybe a d'Aigle Cascade...and they always take more pressure to push down.
@@wildautoharp Thanks, I figured that was the case. I've actually considered drilling new holes and moving the chord assembly up about a inch but am very reluctant to do that.
@@lindaberg1695 Better to move all the chord bars that you want to use UP, and rotate the ones from the top (that you don't use very often, assuming that's so) DOWN...and even turn them into OTHER chords that you won't use very often, but that fit the circle of 5ths appropriately. For example, on an OS they give you things like Aflat, Cmin, Eflat, Bflat7 etc...they are up at the top....and I never used them...so I turn them into things I WILL use, from the sharp side of the circle, like Bmin, F#min, E, B, C#min, even F#maj....that gets your key of A and D more up towards the middle. You won't PLAY the key of E, but it will serve the function for borrowed chords when you need them. That bottom inch or so is wasted space. I sacrificed my key of F entirely, and put on a full key of E.
@@wildautoharp Thanks so much for the suggestion, I was thinking of trying that procedure. I do like the F Key, as it's one of the keys I sing best in. I'll do some experimenting and try this out. Luckily I have the Autoharp Manual that shows the Circle of Fifths. I'll give this a go this afternoon. Thanks so much my near south of the 49th neighbour! :) I'll let you know how it works out. :)
i just got mine back together and I think I got 1 or more turned around and now i cant find a chart of the underside from top to bottom
www.daigleharp.com/Images/Help%20Files/21baraalayoutsamples.pdf Second one down on the left, if it's in standard Oscar layout.
Great mod! I recently got an OS21C that has loose buttons. I like the felt solution. Think it could work with a sheet of denser, cross-link foam too? Might be easier to cut out the holes...