FIX YOUR GRINDING TRANSMISSION FOR LESS THAN $100!?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- This is a test to see if these cheap transmission fixes actually work on a grinding manual transmission in my C5 Corvette
Thanks to all who support me on Patreon! - www.patreon.co...
FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM
ME - / taylordrifts
Luis (Intro) - / _luis_farre
/ greecraft123
ALSO ON TWITTER / taylordrifts
Snapchat: taylorsaysdrift
Intro/ Outro Music by Ryan Little
Intro song - Libertad
Outro song- Sunday Vibes
RUclips channel - / ther4c2010
Background Music by Alcatraz: / alcatraztudio
Let me know what you thought of this video!
Watching this fully knowing that second gear synchro is toast just to inspire so me hope.
Same man I swear, i am just gonna sell that t56 and get a th400
Are we all t56 owners? 😂😂
Is the th400 for ls1 by any chance? Would love an upgrade haha
same
Spend 80 dollars on fluid that doesn’t work or spend 700 on new synchros and labor on top of that
Me: is there a third option?
Bro same. Crossing my fingers.
The logical side of me who's accustom to the internet tells me don't bother, The auto technician side says comment anyway, so here ya go.
While I'm sure yourself and most of the people here in the comments assume its transmission related heres how i would handle the situation (since this is still cheaper then picking up a new transmission) 1. Check your pedal engagement, try adjusting it to a "higher" setting... so that its putting more pressure on the clutch. if no change in condition leave where its at for the time being and bleed the clutch hydraulic system, there could be minor air in the system, or you could have a weak master or slave cylinder. if neither of these trouble shoots provide relief then its most likely the synchronizing mechanism in the transmission.
Just figured id drop these ideas since they are cheap to test, and are very common possibilities.
yup, start with the simplest item first, and test it... don't just throw parts at the problem.
Yuuyia Takahashi If the clutch engagement/ disengagement were out of adjustment wouldn't that cause a grinding issue in all gears? But considering the diagnosing you recommend isn't very hard/ invasive, I think it's worth a try.
it depends, i don't know what the internal ratios are for a corvette transmission, but typically since 1st and second have the biggest difference from being 1:1 ratio of engine vs transmission rotation speed they would be the most pronounced. the engagement issue happens one of several ways. either the pedal is out of its proper adjustment range and isn't pushing the pressure plate hard enough, causing the clutch to still barely be engaged "dragging" (which would explain why the car doesn't like going into 1st from a stop and why the engine is really picky about RPMs when making the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts) Or if the master and/or slave cylinders are getting weak (or there is air in the system) would result in the same condition. Even if the pedal were in the right position, if one of the parts is weak its not transferring full pedal pressure to the pressure plate, if there is air in the system it's the same symptom since air compresses more easily the fluid. In the event of the tangs on the pressure plate being worn the pedal and hydraulics could be working fine but the area worn away where the throwout bearing rides would result in insufficient travel to fully release.... like i said its a bit of a long tedious test process, but considering that he has played the "magical fluid game" already there is no harm in bleeding the system a few times and playing with pedal position prior to pulling a transmission/clutch... testing those are free (since I'm sure he has brake fluid on hand at the house anyway.) and those tests may reveal that its something simple before he goes out and spends big money on parts he may not need.
Yuuyia Takahashi Like you have stated 1st and 2nd gear have the highest gear ratios which means the engine would be spinning faster than the transmission. When shifting into that gear the job of the synchronizer/ blocking ring is to bring the driven gear to a similar speed of the drive gear. So since it usually occurs in 1st and 2nd that kind of tells you it's the synchro. & considering 3rd gear is still a reduction gear he would still have a "slight" grind if the clutch was not fully disengaging. If he does have a clutch that is dragging he could also have a slight "stop sign creep".
if you put it in reverse and it grinds while standing its most likely gonna be a clutch engagement thing too. i had that same issue 1st, 2nd and reverse were bad. All the gears higher were good. Could be a bit of both worlds here but looking at the whole clutch assembly wouldn't hurt anything
Fixing a grinding issue with new oil is like solving a hardware problem with updated software.
Wow. Taylor is fortunate that obviously all his subscribers are mechanics and have such in depth knowledge about crunching gears. Master technicians.
This is actually a really good video because most videos suggest replacing parts and doing the obvious, I've never known if any of these products helped and it's a good perspective on if any of the additives help.
I was told to try changing the fluid when I asked about grinding. But 2 mechanics told me that it would not help on a manual.
Bad syncros. VERY common issue in that trans. If you have the budget, get it fixed ASAP. the trans will blow up in short order most of the time.
Bleed the clutch as well. But sounds like the synchros are toast
2nd gear blocker ring is toast. Oil isn't gonna fix that unfortunately :/
Same thing. The "Synchro Blocking Ring" is what meshes with the synchro assembly to speed up or "synchronize" the gear you're shifting into next.
Ryan Baker how much would that cost to repair
@@nathanialtheking9490 probably around $500+
Redline oil heavyduty is awesome, sorts out the 3rd/4th gear grind on the R32/R33 Skyline GT-R. 👏
1:46
after you eat at Taco Bell
Right-Brain Media you're a fool for that one😂
lucas oil additive will definitely help but you'll get some power loss from it. I've used it in rear ends that had axle bearings and/or pinion bearings that were shot and the vehicle was not valuable enough to repair. After adding Lucas oil additive, the noise went away.
I know for the 4th generation Fbody's, a lot of transmission grinding issues are solved with a new master cylinder with a replacement line that eliminates the restriction that keeps the clutch from disengaging all the way. Looks like this could be part of your issue since it seems to only happen during quick shifts and downshifts. A lot of Corvette and Fbody guys go with the Tick Performance master cylinder and say that it makes a huge difference. Not entirely sure that's what's going on here, but it definitely seems like it could be. You could always give Tick a call and I'm sure they could help you figure it out.
I've always used synchromesh on my KA/SR transmissions and it has worked great. Recently switched to Amsoil when I went KA-T and it shifts super buttery now, well worth the $16/qt. The thing I didn't like about Redline was everyone said it made cold shifts really harsh
I have these 1st to 2nd grinding issues on my vw gearboxes in mk1 and mk4 golfs. I just put the cheapest regular non synthetic 85 140 thick viscosity gear oil in it. That fixed my issues. As the syncros wear down they need to mesh and match rotation with the brass blocker rings. So when you drive it for awhile the gear oil gets hot and the viscosity gets thinner. This causes the syncros to not grip the blocker rings and match rpms in order sync up corrrectly. A thicker viscosity oil usually fixes this or at least buys you time till you find a new trans or rebuild.
Man I hate the smell of gear oil as well!! I have had good luck with synchromesh in the past. Sucks it didn't work for you. Your videos are very informative, keep it up!
I love these types of videos as an amateur mechanic these type of videos help me a lot keep it up taylor!
You should try Redline!
Edit: He did.
I'm pretty sure it's the clutch. My c5 did something very similar prior to my clutch swap. Maybe check and swap clutch fluid?
I came here because my Scion tC is acting up, but after I hear the v8 now I have to get rid of my Scion. Thanks alot! ;)
This is why whenever you buy a car ALWAYS change out all fluids, ESPECIALLY the one everyone neglects: trans fluid.
Yep I don't own a car but my parents does and they never changed gearbox oil on any car.
Last time my mom was saying that her car was making noise and when I heard it I recognized the gearbox noise her car is almost 200k miles and this car is well known for gearbox wear so I told her "You never changed your gearbox oil" and she said "What??Are we supposed to change it?I've never heard of that!"
IMNOTA i cringe every time. I just got a car that wasnt properly maintained and so after i changed it the thing is being slow and jerky. Im pissed
*edit: its an automatic trans
Cristian Lara yes people never change any of the fluid which is just stupid some people don't even remember to change their motor oil
I don’t know how many people turned down gear box fluid changes when I worked as lube tech, I’d show samples and tranny and dif would literally be black and they didn’t care one bit... kind of sad honestly
@@imnota Some people will even tell you not to change your transmission fluid. lol
Try royal purple synchromax. It completely stopped grinding in my car like 30k miles ago and its still working great
The T56's require more oil than can be put in from the fillhole. Take out the Reverse Lamp Switch and fill through that hole. Using a bent cable tie or wire, poke through the hole and measure until fluid level is 25mm below the hole. It should be roughly 4.85Litres. This is what my Haynes Manual recommends, along with Holden and Ford Forums, I'm sure many repair manual's will recommend this.
double clutch downshift would help it get into second quicker than letting the synco do the job at this stage, especially at the track.
Terry Deng for some reason when I double clutch down shift to second it grinds and pops out but not when I just downshift like normal
I have to jam my 2nd gear weirdly into action, and when the car moving and I go into 1st it grinds. Id try this shit out and let you know my results on my car.
Bro De got an e36? Cause mine does something similar
Do not shift into 1st when the car is moving. If it has no sincro, ( old ones dose not ) it could destroy your gear. Double clutching can work for first, or a dead syncro ring in second, but both Your's, and Taylor's sound like trouble.
I had the chance to buy a new tranny for $200 and I slacked. Id take driving with 50% chance of getting into 2nd for now lol. 1st is worthless for anything than taking off anyway and can get to third pretty easily. I recently changed my fluid as well, dunno if related, I did use some autozone bullshit though, about to replace it again and hope for the best.
Sucks that the synchro gears are shot, I had the same thing happen on a Prelude Si I used to own. Tried everything I could before getting the trans pulled and serviced but in the end just spent more than I needed to on different fluids to try and fix it to no avail.... Good luck with that, and keep up the awesome work!!
Keep doing what you are doing...love these vids lately...not much into the drifting...F1 cars don't drift and I'm an F1 guy but these vids where you get in to repairs and fabrication, installations, projects....love it!
Turn ad-block off 'cause I like your content and really want to support you. Keep up the good work! Cheers from Switzerland.
Here come the RUclips mechanics😂
taylor, after refill you sould fire the car up on the lift roll through the gears to get the fluild moving and the check the fluid while the car is running. so i know you can "check" it so just pump some more fluid in and if it starts to over flow then you know your forsure full of fluid
your trans issue may also be clutch related the hydraulic pressure might be low and cause grinding
Thank you .....
my 5th gear grinds every time I go into it, pretty much assume the Syncro is shot, double clutching makes it stop grinding and allows me to be lazy and worry about more pressing matters lol
Well I might need an input shaft bearing anyway, but my estimate was $2000. I'm going to try to double clutch it. lol
@Taylor Ray great review. i was going to try RP synchromax for my 2-3 grinding but after watching your video, i also agree that no amount of fluid can repair or hide that grinding issue. replacing the synchros or transmission rebuild is definitely in order. thanks for the informative vid!
Man I dont know if this will work for you but make the pin on your slave cylinder a bit longer. I normally put like a small socket on the end of it. I had one that would never work unless it had a longer pin. Maybe the trans but it could be the slave not pushing far enough to fully engage the clutch.
When downshifting, try revmatching with the foot off the clutch before engaging the gear (just like with any unsynchronized gearbox) in order to prevent further damage.
I should be able to do this, but then again my car is supposed to have rev matching, so I don't know. My car seems to like to grind in 3rd so I'm going to try double clutching first.
Yeah but if its already grinding, then it doesn't really help. Mine still grinds no matter how much I rev.
Ps : I was rev matching all along before this and had no issues, it only started after my transmission fluid change 😔
yo taylor might have a inexpensive option for you, go to a pick and pull pull a corvette trannie and pull the syncros on the spot will run you about 20/30 bucks only down side is installing them wont be a 5 minute job.
hope this helps you
I would highly suggest bleeding the clutch the hydro throw out bearings suck on the t56s and it's common for the clutch to not fully disengage which makes it do basically what's happening in your case
I know this was a long time ago, but most of these comment are not right. I have a Z06 and your problem is either bent shifter fork for first and second, or synchros. I have THE SAME EXACT ISSUE.
Pro tip, use the other side of 2nd gear syncro when up shiting, so go 1st all the way to redline then as you shift to 2nd actually hook it around and just touch 3rd then straight down to 2nd and then realese clutch, its alomost like your downshift and cause that synchro is all good use that side for your up shift, i use to do this in my evo and it worked mint and you can actually get be pretty quick at it
just seen more of vid, double clutch all your shifts so engine speed matches road speed and gear ratio speed!!
If you aren't already, try changing the clutch fluid, its sort of a known issue with the LS/T56 cars with it getting dirty easily. If you don't have a bleeder line try the "ranger method." I doubt it'll fix the issue but it might help.
+ooohhhh SIX I have done the clutch fluid change. Should have mentioned that. It helped a little bit.
That second gear grind is a real bummer, I get the same in my RSX. Syncromesh helps me, maybe I should do another drain and see if it's smooth again.
I just got the entire K-tuned CMC upgrade kit and i still have the clunky and notchy gears on my k20Z3. Trans fluid changed a few Kmiles ago as well.
My rsx is currently doing the grind and pop out how did you fix yours?
Man I just installed a Tremec TKX in my '72 automatic Monte. Everything was installed perfectly. But I've got grinding going into ONLY second gear...about 75% of the time. Tremec wants me to use cheap ATF for the break in. I am wondering if the syncromesh would take care of it. But I haven't finished the break in yet.
shift fork pads are probably shot. tick performance does nice rebuilds with upgrades.
That Check Engine lap is savage :D
I'd go straight to the redline
Just assume all T56 transmissions need a rebuild
Bahaha you have no idea how to shift then the Aussie commodore with t56 takes more abuse than my top loader falcon stupid yanks can not shift or skid for shit
Michael short imagine thinking you know how to drive, driving a commodore
As many people have already said, I would suggest trying to double clutch. If that fixes the issue or part of it then your syncros are gone
1:51 the best impression of a goat i've ever heard!
and a sheep at 6:20 xD
I have had really good luck with the Lucia transmission treatment. Goes in wit fluid. Its really thick. I heated it up so it would go in easier. Just a thought for you.
you forgot to tell us if you did it with a hot or cold trans. Generally I do a hot trans so it flows better but I do get burnt a lot.
Also, if you are going to keep drifting / beating on it, put an ECS or DTE trans brace setup on it while you have it out.
Hey Taylor, dude, how about your Clutch. Have you checked that yet? Maybe once Adam's home, ask him if he's willing to lend you his lift, it'll make for something different one both channels.
Definitely synchro mesh, new gearbox time, only way to fix I'm afraid, abuse it until it dies lol
note to people who gonna just try this make sure u do research and find out what ur synchro are made of.. some synchros will get ate up by other fluids..
I don't think the trans is bad i think it's just a bent or work out fork. It's not that hard to change just plan on taking a weekend to pull the trans and pull it apart. and you can do a nice clutch at the same time! good luck man
Double clutching and rev match can fix some nosie but it will not solve this situation for sure. Need new synchro. This is very common to vw golf gti or seat cupra etc, especialy 2nd gear, when is above 2k rpm
grate tip brother on checking the fill plug
Was literally working on the grinding issue in my t-56 in my firebird. About to drain the atf and fill with synchromesh
You can fix it for free if you just push the car everywhere
It's not a Ford though
StephensEngineering if it was he wouldn't have transmission issues lol
you mean like the TR6060 in mustangs?
that redline shock proof is the best gear oil known to mankind!
double clutch bro
I happened to come across this video due to a similar issue happening on a 2012 Camaro I am looking at. It makes a horrible grinding noise when trying to shift gears from first to second that sounded very similar to the issues your car was having. I was just curious how you ended up solving this issue if it was something simple or if it just resulted in a complete transmission swap.
did you figure out what happen to yours? could be bad synchros, bad clutch, clutch fluid, trans fluid
@@rebel9976 No, I didn't end up getting that one due to the bad transmission. I'm pretty sure it was bad synchros though because when you would get on it and try to shift from 1st to 2nd it would make a horrible grinding noise and wouldn't let it shift to 2nd until a little while later for the gears to have time to mesh properly. However, I did find a different one that I bought but I'm still having to deal with a dreaded torque converter issue that seems to happen on the automatics.
If you take drain plug out before the fill hole plug it won't shoot the gear oil out so hard and make a mess
Yeah use to hate to help my dad do spider gears in rear ends cause the smell is so bad
Where do you get your gear oil, local parts shop or big box store ? and where did you find that white nozzle to pump with, what bottle did you find that off of ?
Also im having grinding issues as-well on my rsx and have found that double clutching tends to fix the problem, sadly everyone gives you a weird look for double clutching all the time. It apparently helps the syncro-timing but im just a guy on the internet; keep up the good work.
if you're coming to Texas, rip the transmission out and bring it to tdp in fortworth. dude does legit t56 builds for very reasonable prices.
my 2022 wrx (picked up late april in 2022) is doing this and the thing doesnt even have 4500 miles in it yet
used gear oil is delicious. when I smell it I can taste it in the back of my throat for days! also maybe you should check your shift linkage or get it adjusted
honestly, just have the transmission rebuilt and while theyre rebuilding it have them put high torque internals because you drift and there is a lot of stress on the trans, so just have it rebuilt
i feel like this video was directed directly towards me
Did you fix it? I have the same issue on a Honda Accord
You should make sure your clutch hydraulic system is tip top before trying to rebuild the trans.
If it was my problem I would bleed/flush the clutch slave,I bet you have done that, then check the free play in the pedal and slave. If all that checks out .Buy a used trans and rebuild it,the parts are not expensive or hard to do.Then you're not out a drivable car and can do the swap in a day,then rebuild the one you take out and sell it as rebuilt and make $$$$$$$.
Looking to buy a beater G35 manual... Grinds into 1st. Hope this helps if I buy the car. Cheers!
Just replace your synchronizers for those gears. That’s just going to mask the problem. If the synchronizer is worn out it will cause grinding
I'd say check your clutch cable to make sure it's not worn out somewhere random
My jeep did the same thing, and I replaced the synchro for 2nd and 3rd gear, and it stopped grinding
How much was the job?
Interested in cost as well as what type of shop you used.
Apart from abuse, the biggest killer of transmissions is the clutch not working properly. The syncros work harder every shift till they're too far gone.
I wonder why 1st and 2nd are the problem gears 😉 lol. But best wishes man, the little tutorial/test was nice to see.
why would gm use atf instead of oil. ATF is a detergent, not a lubricant.
1st and 2nd blockers are worn out and if you keep grinding, you will need to replace the gears too as you will round out the dog teeth. Blockers are inexpensive, gears are not.
you can change your clutch slave or the thing that push the clutch
great idea with that pump!
Smoked synchros.
Whatever I drained out was not ATF... was thick and smelly and dirty whatever it is. I had Supertech ATF on hand so that's what went back in there... let's see how it does now.
sounds like bad synchros. have you tried double clutching and rev matching on the down shifts while driving on the street to prevent further damage?
I know what you mean about the smell of used gearbox oil, horrible stuff! felt for you when it splashed the first time.
Could it be a clutch issue?? Cause if not you might need to replace the shift forks or maybe synchros which I believe you already know.
should bring it to your local vocational school its normally just a small fee like 5 bucks and parts
props i use syncromesh in my tr3650 and that shit is butter
question.... Do you get super cranky working in those tight situations and simple things become more time consuming and a pain in the ass then you previously thought it would actually be???? Am I the only one??????
That is a nice double din radio! Which model is it? Does it offer navigation? Thanks
hi i love the vids and keep up the good work. one question since im not a regular viewer. is the miata going to still be sold???
insert name nope. he's gonna keep the miata and make it the dedicated drift car since the corvette is too nice to ruin with the cage. He's gonna keep both tho
Yeah its too bad these trans dont last. My t56 had a bad 3/4. Double clutching negated 98% of the grinds though, that worked wonders for me while it was bad.
Hi Taylor,
maybe it is possible for you to get LiquiMoly Products ? The MoS2 Gear Oil Additive has been great at solving such issues starting from my dads old vw bug to my recent suzuki...
a lot of times led bulds or whatever melt ur plastic lenzs on ur car i think led are only good for glass
syncro mesh is so damn exspensive my truck took it 9 bucks a quart
bro at that point you should go to a pick n pull or junkyard and pull a synchro from a same trans for cheap and fixed it yourself, just some advice if your still using synchro mesh, but out of curiosity how much is it per jug where your at?
Fill it with degreaser drive it for a minute let it sit over night. And drain it fill it. The problem is the synros are dirty so oil doesn't stick to it
But realy the hole thing should be rebuild at that point
Does reverse work ok? Could be the clutch hanging up.
I realize there haven't been any recent comments but I noticed sometimes on my car it doesn't want to go into reverse. It doesn't happen very often but with my transmission repair estimate it would be nice if I could make sure. lol
I don't want to watch this whole video because I'm not trying to fix my transmission I just want to hear the sound the grinding noise! did he record that noise anywhere in this video? Does anyone know? All I'm finding anywhere is the description of a noise . I need to hear the actual noise so that I can have some idea if that's my problem.
I have seen c5 corvette do that when the pilot bearing starts hanging on the input shaft do to clutch material getting in there. Just something to look into. goodluck.
+Joe Radosta thanks! I'll have to check into that.
Taylor Ray hey Taylor, you need to get this stuff called: "LUBEGARD Dr Tranny Instant Shudder Fix" I swear it will make your transmission shift like brand-new and it's only $10 max for a tube of it. You just cut it open and squirt it directly into your transmission fill plug on manuals or at the dipstick if you have an automatic transmission. But your problem also sounds like a slave cylinder or throw bearing not working properly. It's sort of sounds like your clutch is not engaging and disengaging all the way. The first solution I listed would be a much cheaper and faster fix if that's the problem.
I mean "Pilot bearing" like the guy above me said not the throw bearing... but like I said try the LubeGuard first.
Sounds to me the clutch is bad possibly not slowing the box down enough for the lower gears