The biggest piece of advice I can give when rebuilding chainsaws is make sure you oil the bearings on the bottom end and the wrist pin and also use a gasket maker designed for 2 stroke crank cases and is fuel resistant such as “Moto Seal” the reason that’s crucial is over time the fuel as it goes through the bottom end will eat away at the gasket and cause an air leak which will cause the saw to blow up over time. Overall you did and amazing job, hope it’s still running well for you
Thanks for this! Same thing happened to me. Didn't shake the gas, scored the head and I concluded my saw was toast. I really appreciate the straightforward, no BS presentation.
Thanks for the video. 3 in 1 oil is OK. but thin. I use 2 cycle oil because it's designed to burn clean and leave less residue. Also do NOT use RTV as it is not gas and oil proof. If the gasket maker you use does not say it is gas proof, it isn't. You may develop a cylinder base leak over time. The stock red Stihl sealant is Dirko, I believe. I use 3 Bond, works great but it is really stringy. Also Honda and Yamaha have good sealants. Also. the screw in the intake manifold that was too long must have come from somewhere else in the saw.
Excellent video, clear and precise instructions, great job! I have a 311 that i need to rebuild, specs online all say 59cc but all rebuild kits seem to be 49cc, any idea why?
Well done. Has as much junk on it like vehs now a days to get to what trying to fix Always great feeling when done and fires right up. Is there a “break in “ procedure now ?
Was that a big bore kit ? Alot of them say they will fit a bunch of models but dont list the 311 ? Can the stock cylender be bored that much and i can put a bigger piston in it ? Thank you.
I don't think it's worth over boring a cylinder, but there are larger piston/ cylinder kits available that essentially turn a 311 into a 391. That's what I've done with this saw.
@GnarTank I haven't exactly cut down any forests with it, but yes it has served me well through tens of hours since the rebuild. It definitely has more power now and it runs a 26" bar now just fine
Hey how’s it going I’m in the middle of tearing down my ms311 and I can’t seem to get the wrist pin out to pull the piston and change it what did you do for yours
Howdy! i fought with the C-ring in the groove for a LONG time. Ultimately i used some O-ring picks and was able to gouge and deform the C ring enough to get it to pop out. I did scratch up the piston doing that, but if you aren't using that piston again that should be alright.
2 месяца назад
Too late to help, but hold the piston in your hand while you tap the wrist pin out with a drift or punch. Don't put force sideways on the connecting rod or you can bend it or deform the rod in the bearing journal area. Even ruin the rod bearing. Always back the piston to take the pressure off the connecting rod. Once I had to make a support by laying the saw on its side and cutting a hard 2x4 to fit between the piston and the bench. Then I drilled a hole slightly bigger than the wrist pin into the end grain. I used this to support the piston and rod while I knocked the pin down into the 2x4.
Great video, your two assistants in the beginning are AWESOME too . 😊
I love the cow mooing in the background!
The biggest piece of advice I can give when rebuilding chainsaws is make sure you oil the bearings on the bottom end and the wrist pin and also use a gasket maker designed for 2 stroke crank cases and is fuel resistant such as “Moto Seal” the reason that’s crucial is over time the fuel as it goes through the bottom end will eat away at the gasket and cause an air leak which will cause the saw to blow up over time. Overall you did and amazing job, hope it’s still running well for you
Great advice! Thank you! I did not use moto seal, but I'll be ordering some shortly
Thanks for this! Same thing happened to me. Didn't shake the gas, scored the head and I concluded my saw was toast. I really appreciate the straightforward, no BS presentation.
Thanks for this video i was looking to see if i could fit that 49mm cylinder on my 311 and you confirmed that i could. Great video !!!
Thanks for motivating me
Let us know how it goes!
Thanks for the video. 3 in 1 oil is OK. but thin. I use 2 cycle oil because it's designed to burn clean and leave less residue. Also do NOT use RTV as it is not gas and oil proof. If the gasket maker you use does not say it is gas proof, it isn't. You may develop a cylinder base leak over time. The stock red Stihl sealant is Dirko, I believe. I use 3 Bond, works great but it is really stringy. Also Honda and Yamaha have good sealants. Also. the screw in the intake manifold that was too long must have come from somewhere else in the saw.
thanks for sharing, you answer a question I had about the engine size replacements vs oem.
Excellent video, clear and precise instructions, great job! I have a 311 that i need to rebuild, specs online all say 59cc but all rebuild kits seem to be 49cc, any idea why?
Where did you get your kit and how much did it cost?
Well done. Has as much junk on it like vehs now a days to get to what trying to fix Always great feeling when done and fires right up. Is there a “break in “ procedure now ?
I let it run for 15-20 minutes straight after adjusting the carb so it idles right. During that time I cut a few small logs while keeping the rpm low.
I also mixed the fuel a little rich
Was that a big bore kit ? Alot of them say they will fit a bunch of models but dont list the 311 ? Can the stock cylender be bored that much and i can put a bigger piston in it ? Thank you.
I don't think it's worth over boring a cylinder, but there are larger piston/ cylinder kits available that essentially turn a 311 into a 391. That's what I've done with this saw.
Mines in a box in a hundred pieces right now.
Better get after it! 😀
Has the hyway held up? Just got gifted a broken 311 and I suspect its a cylinder problem, would you recommend this cylinder/piston?
@GnarTank I haven't exactly cut down any forests with it, but yes it has served me well through tens of hours since the rebuild. It definitely has more power now and it runs a 26" bar now just fine
@@7fatcowsfarm378 Thank you
@@GnarTank happy to help!
Where did you get that kit? I looked up that number and it says Hyway with nikasil plated cylinder. That the same thing? Thanks!
That's the right brand
@@7fatcowsfarm378 perfect!! Thank you!!
Hey how’s it going I’m in the middle of tearing down my ms311 and I can’t seem to get the wrist pin out to pull the piston and change it what did you do for yours
Howdy! i fought with the C-ring in the groove for a LONG time. Ultimately i used some O-ring picks and was able to gouge and deform the C ring enough to get it to pop out. I did scratch up the piston doing that, but if you aren't using that piston again that should be alright.
Too late to help, but hold the piston in your hand while you tap the wrist pin out with a drift or punch. Don't put force sideways on the connecting rod or you can bend it or deform the rod in the bearing journal area. Even ruin the rod bearing. Always back the piston to take the pressure off the connecting rod. Once I had to make a support by laying the saw on its side and cutting a hard 2x4 to fit between the piston and the bench. Then I drilled a hole slightly bigger than the wrist pin into the end grain. I used this to support the piston and rod while I knocked the pin down into the 2x4.