LOL - you wouldn't pay what something like this made in EU would cost. Unfortunately is is impossible produce and sell stuff as you would like for a decent price here. But there is the new ASX24 Crawler ESC now from Modellbau-Regler.de, it is more or less plug and play also for the Panda, you'd only have to adapt the battery plug. There are quite some companies making super high priced (and mega quality) stuff for rc trucks and scale trucks here in EU, but this is only for the rich guys, exceptionally expensive (even RCSparks says too expensive for him). I am just a hobbyist...
I went for a HW1625 esc and a TG-3 receiver,it's not silent,but,it's a lot quieter than it was,with better modulation too. The rear tyres are weighted too Donald.
@@semperatis OK, thx, so they saved the money for rear weights in the newer version ;-). However - my "Sport" seems to do very well on inclines, not sure if rear tire weights are needed.
Thanks for all the time and resources you've gone through giving us all this valuable insight . About the motor, like you mentioned I'm sure it actually does utilize gear reduction in its intended application. Have you checked into any . Super freaking smooth brother. Stealthy - Great Job
Thank you. No, I did not do anything with my Panda since then. It sits in its box ;-) Tinkering with other micros... Not a big fan of those. But I am sure, now that Sparks did the videos and they come with a 1/24 portal truck, they will be more popular again.
Panda hobby list a 60turn motor now. Also the 2mm shaft on motor is splined. I 3D printed a spacer and put a panda hobby motor on the sg1802 also the panda hobby motor fits the beige wpl gearbox if you cut the shaft down and swap gear
I see this motor - but 60t vs. 55 is not such a big difference. Did you test it? No need for a motor for WPLs, there are a ton - but big need for a motor for the Panda Hobby ;-) Where did you get your Panda Hobbies motors from?
Yoiks, you musta moved stuff about to squeeze that into there. I'm putting a new (more scale and detailed) body onto my sg1802, I had to mod... er, mildly. May hafta scrap the electronix now, because of Donald, can't see me coming to terms with how it performs stock. Thanks Donald, lol.
No I got the 51 turn motor not 60turn I ordered them from panda hobby website. After driving the beige wpl gearbox with panda hobby motor I found out the gears are weak in that box so wouldn’t advise using it. After I 3D printed a spacer it fit ok was right on the chassis and I noticed it wasn’t sitting flat so needs 3 spacers just to lift up a bit i think to clear the end of the links oh and I removed the top link on one side on the front will have to try and add a panhard bar later. My x2 body looks like a trx4 bronco now I printed a lot of bits I may set a website up and list bits I made on there
Hello, thanks for your videos, they are very helpful. One question, I want to put the ESC AS-12/15RW BEC (EASY) on the Atlas 6x6. Can I keep the stock receiver, or should I trade the receiver for a Dumbo Rc or Turbo racing RX41?
Hi, you have to change the receiver. With TurboRacing receiver you can use the Atlas stock radio, with DumboRC receiver you will have to use Dumbo radio.
@@donaldsneffe ok, i understand. Also I watched the ESC ASX24 Crawler, what difference there are with the AS12? In the shop the Modellbau there are not detal info. Thanks 👍🏼
@@contrerassja Which AS12? AS12/6 or AS 12/15? Both are made for boats and not for trucks. ASX24 is made for microcrawlers (and you can buy a version with plugs for SCX24). Max Amp is difference, and the ASX24 does have less lag between forward and reverse. AS12/6 without BEC, the others with. ASX24 does have 4 x finer resolution than AS12/6 and the old AS12/15 BEC (+ Easy). But the new AS12/15 Lipo also does have 10 bits (1024 steps) resolution. However, with most radios you will not notice the difference between 8 bit (256 steps, AS12/6 and old AS12/15) and 10 bit (1024, ASX24, new AS12/15 Lipo). Already 8 bit is way better than any other brushed micro ESC on the market (and you will have the fine resolution in forward and reverse direction, in some ESCs in brushed, e.g. Furitek Lizard, reverse resolution is bad, only forward good).
Those planetary gearboxes (for WPL and Co.) do have extremely thick shafts... this will be the main problem. Pinion, ... where to get a pinion that fits to the tiny teeth of the spur gear.
Dumbo or Panda? The Dumbo ESCs (old one and the bad new one) do not have a switch, plug on/off battery (this is the best solution!). Panda... does have a switch...
How did you wire all those together? Or get the ends? Me and my friend both have new ones coming and we would like to be able to quiet them down and make crawl better. We are just getting into rcs
What do you want to do? Do you want to use stock radio and receiver, or do you want to exchange radio, too? I assume, you wanna use stock radio and only change ESC. AS12/15 does come with BEC, but you do not need it. So remove the red wire (only the red!) of the servo plug for throttle channel (channel 2). Make a y-connection from battery to stock battery plug (receiver) and ESC battery in. Power motor with ESC, plug ESC signal wire (orange/white/yellow) and GNU wire (black/brown) into channel 2 (Throttle) of original receiver unit. You will have to switch on/off the truck by plugging on/off battery then.
Thanks for explaining. I’m about to do this with my Tetra. That first part about removing the red wire, that’s from the 3 wire lead of the as12/15, yes? Because there’s nothing in channel 2 or the existing receiver/esc, or am I misunderstanding?
@@mvz2 If you will use the stock radio and stock receiver, you will not need (and cannot use) the BEC of the AS12/15. You will use the BEC of the Panda Hobby RX/ESC unit. Therefore you will have to remove the red wire, so the BEC of the AS12/15 will not power the Panda RX/ESC unit. But you will need the orange (or white or yellow, depending on servo cable) wire (signal) and the black/brown wire (grounding). And then you will have to plug this servo wire (without red) into channel 2 of the Panda RX/ESC unit. Plug the motor to the AS12/15 and make a Y-cable to the Lipo, which then will power AS12/15 ESC and Panda rx unit (using the BEC of the Panda unit).
Any 2s Lipo with higher mAh - so any larger battery. Since Lipo shipping is a problem actually, and I do not know where you live, it does not make much sense to give links. Check your local shop or Hobbyking, Amazon...
@@donaldsneffe I know more mah, but the battery tray in the back is so small most mah I can see fit is 1000mah, and even if I can get bigger battery than that, the weight in the back where the battery goes. may effect performance. I thought you may have more experience In battery options or maybe changing location, of battery to distribute weight better
@@jayroverduzco2291 Yes, but I use even smaller batteries. More runtime is not important for me. I use mostly 300 mAh and 260 mAh 2s Turnigy Nanotech/Hobbyking and 450 mAh SLS 2s, and even smaller 180 mAh 3s Nanotech. You can swap out for example battery to front and receiver unit to back, but this needs longer servo wires. There is no solution for this problem, the Panda is not an awesome crawler. I like the Turnigy 1000 mAh 2s Lipo... it is cheap and works well in my WPL Trucks, way enough for a small crawler (but unfortunately out of stock actually): hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-1000mah-2s-20c-lipo-pack.html?affiliate_code=PREBYDYCUEBOAHL&_asc=8060956598
Hello bro, hey I have a question, 2 days ago I bought a car, katana and then I was wondering if it is normal or not that when using it after 10 minutes the engine gets hot, because if it heats up I touch it for a few seconds and It feels like it burns slightly, then I hear that the car makes a slight noise like scraping or something like that in the gear system, by chance could you help me, I see that you have a lot of experience in cars like these.
After 10 minutes? It is hard to say, how did you drive the car? If you drive it for 10 minutes without stopping with full power, the motor can be that hot. Katana is super heavy, so the motor will get warmer than in most of the other small trucks. But maybe there is a problem with your drivetrain? Something is scrapping, not spinning freely? Check the drivetrain, if there is a problem. Katana is easy to maintain, only 4 screws to take the body off (I have a video about this). Then remove central transmission with motor (only 3 screws from underside, driveshafts can stay on) and check if front- and rear axle spin freely and if there is a problem in the central transmission.
@@donaldsneffe Yes bro, 10 minutes more or less, the car I only drive at low to medium speed, but it may be because I used it for a long time, about the weird sound, I already disarmed and checked the katana and from what I see the sound comes of the gears, I have not been able to open it because it is well adjusted with the screws but I am sure that it is the gear system where the sound comes from. One question, in case I need a replacement engine in the future, do you know where I could find one bro?
@@josleonardohardydiaz4181 Only 3 screws from below to remove the central gearbox (but body has to be off). Spare motors are cheap (but prices have raised recently, probably because of the high demand), but actually often out of stock (because SCX24 drivers buy them). The RGT and the HobbyPlus motor are the same, you can use both. Some links to the motors, maybe buy when in stock, they are out of stock regularly, RGT comes with pinion, Hobby Plus not: www.asiatees.com/display?Hobby-Plus-CR-18-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Hobby%20Plus&model=CR-18&id=176907&pid=1 www.asiatees.com/display?RGT-1%2F24-ADVENTURER-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=RGT&model=1%2F24+ADVENTURER&id=148552&pid=1 www.banggood.com/13625-050-High-Power-Brushed-RC-Car-Motor-For-RGT-136240-V2-1-or-24-Vehicle-RC-Rock-Crawler-Off-road-Parts-p-1625217.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search&p=6S2910081756201209IA&custlinkid=1456705
Body looks ok, but quality is not so good. I ordered a Atlas 6x6 canopy and probably will use this and make custom rear part. Atlas 6x6 body is way, way, way better quality (thick lexan).
@@juanrascon7743 So the same as I do have? Strange... I guess I tried everything... yes, flipping plug... Do not have stock electronic anymore in the truck... maybe I will try again, however, wont use the stock elo enymore. But if you flip a plug on a LED, it wont work anymore... and since my LEDs do work, they have to be plugged in correctly. Center is red, outer black. Does your Tetra have a light controller? There must be a lighcontroller (simple on/off switch) somewhere, out of the rx unit.
@@donaldsneffe its the stock esc and controller I woder if it just a error in manufacturing because mine worked fine right from the start I did just have to turn the plug. I do love the speed of the truck I wish they would make a rock bouncer body for this truck
@@juanrascon7743 OK, yes, this is strange... I saw in the video of RCSparks, who has the same truck as I or we, that he obviously also was not able to switch light by remote (at least he did not show it). I asked Banggood customer service about this, but they also did not have an answer. But, in contrary to you, I hate this high speed (to be exact: the bad low speed modulation) in this truck, it is awful. So I intended to change electronics anyway. But who knows, maybe a better ESC would even work with stock receiver and radio, I did not test. Wonder how the "speed switch" (what is Dual Rate) would react. You are right, this would be good for a Rock Bouncer...
Wow what a difference. Wish they would charge a little more $$ and put those electronics in stock configuration. Awesome video man thanks
I put some rc4wd scrambler and beadlocks on mine and it made the clearance issue much better
I wish guys like you would sell plug and play upgrade kits for newbies 😂
LOL - you wouldn't pay what something like this made in EU would cost. Unfortunately is is impossible produce and sell stuff as you would like for a decent price here. But there is the new ASX24 Crawler ESC now from Modellbau-Regler.de, it is more or less plug and play also for the Panda, you'd only have to adapt the battery plug.
There are quite some companies making super high priced (and mega quality) stuff for rc trucks and scale trucks here in EU, but this is only for the rich guys, exceptionally expensive (even RCSparks says too expensive for him).
I am just a hobbyist...
@@donaldsneffe thanks!
I went for a HW1625 esc and a TG-3 receiver,it's not silent,but,it's a lot quieter than it was,with better modulation too. The rear tyres are weighted too Donald.
Ok, thanks. In mine only front are weighted.
I have the older non-sport model that came in the foam lined box, each wheel weighs 29g.
@@semperatis OK, thx, so they saved the money for rear weights in the newer version ;-).
However - my "Sport" seems to do very well on inclines, not sure if rear tire weights are needed.
Hallo Neffe.... ich liebe Deine Videos .... weiter so!!!!! :)
Thanks for all the time and resources you've gone through giving us all this valuable insight . About the motor, like you mentioned I'm sure it actually does utilize gear reduction in its intended application. Have you checked into any . Super freaking smooth brother. Stealthy - Great Job
Thank you.
No, I did not do anything with my Panda since then. It sits in its box ;-) Tinkering with other micros...
Not a big fan of those. But I am sure, now that Sparks did the videos and they come with a 1/24 portal truck, they will be more popular again.
Panda hobby list a 60turn motor now. Also the 2mm shaft on motor is splined. I 3D printed a spacer and put a panda hobby motor on the sg1802 also the panda hobby motor fits the beige wpl gearbox if you cut the shaft down and swap gear
I see this motor - but 60t vs. 55 is not such a big difference. Did you test it?
No need for a motor for WPLs, there are a ton - but big need for a motor for the Panda Hobby ;-)
Where did you get your Panda Hobbies motors from?
Yoiks, you musta moved stuff about to squeeze that into there. I'm putting a new (more scale and detailed) body onto my sg1802, I had to mod... er, mildly. May hafta scrap the electronix now, because of Donald, can't see me coming to terms with how it performs stock. Thanks Donald, lol.
@@stevewatts3502 my 1802 will be a Bronco :-)
No I got the 51 turn motor not 60turn I ordered them from panda hobby website. After driving the beige wpl gearbox with panda hobby motor I found out the gears are weak in that box so wouldn’t advise using it. After I 3D printed a spacer it fit ok was right on the chassis and I noticed it wasn’t sitting flat so needs 3 spacers just to lift up a bit i think to clear the end of the links oh and I removed the top link on one side on the front will have to try and add a panhard bar later. My x2 body looks like a trx4 bronco now I printed a lot of bits I may set a website up and list bits I made on there
@@nate63892 THX for the report!
I went with a Hobbywing 1080 and a Radiolink R4FGM receiver for my 6x6 (I have the RC6GS transmitter)
Does the 1080 work with such a small motor ?
Hello, thanks for your videos, they are very helpful. One question, I want to put the ESC AS-12/15RW BEC (EASY) on the Atlas 6x6. Can I keep the stock receiver, or should I trade the receiver for a Dumbo Rc or Turbo racing RX41?
Hi, you have to change the receiver. With TurboRacing receiver you can use the Atlas stock radio, with DumboRC receiver you will have to use Dumbo radio.
@@donaldsneffe ok, i understand. Also I watched the ESC ASX24 Crawler, what difference there are with the AS12? In the shop the Modellbau there are not detal info. Thanks 👍🏼
@@contrerassja Which AS12? AS12/6 or AS 12/15? Both are made for boats and not for trucks.
ASX24 is made for microcrawlers (and you can buy a version with plugs for SCX24). Max Amp is difference, and the ASX24 does have less lag between forward and reverse.
AS12/6 without BEC, the others with.
ASX24 does have 4 x finer resolution than AS12/6 and the old AS12/15 BEC (+ Easy). But the new AS12/15 Lipo also does have 10 bits (1024 steps) resolution. However, with most radios you will not notice the difference between 8 bit (256 steps, AS12/6 and old AS12/15) and 10 bit (1024, ASX24, new AS12/15 Lipo). Already 8 bit is way better than any other brushed micro ESC on the market (and you will have the fine resolution in forward and reverse direction, in some ESCs in brushed, e.g. Furitek Lizard, reverse resolution is bad, only forward good).
I wonder if you could squeeze one of those planetary gearboxes (as a 2nd reduction) where that Panda's weird motor spacer is.
Those planetary gearboxes (for WPL and Co.) do have extremely thick shafts... this will be the main problem.
Pinion, ... where to get a pinion that fits to the tiny teeth of the spur gear.
Good video
perfect👍 👍
Love this video. What's the longest battery I would be able to use in this model? Does anyone know?
Don't waste your time on this asshole but the longest battery life I've run is 1700 mAh so there is your answer
Can I ask you Donald how to switch on-switch off DumboRC esc?
Dumbo or Panda? The Dumbo ESCs (old one and the bad new one) do not have a switch, plug on/off battery (this is the best solution!). Panda... does have a switch...
How did you wire all those together? Or get the ends? Me and my friend both have new ones coming and we would like to be able to quiet them down and make crawl better. We are just getting into rcs
What do you want to do?
Do you want to use stock radio and receiver, or do you want to exchange radio, too?
I assume, you wanna use stock radio and only change ESC.
AS12/15 does come with BEC, but you do not need it. So remove the red wire (only the red!) of the servo plug for throttle channel (channel 2). Make a y-connection from battery to stock battery plug (receiver) and ESC battery in.
Power motor with ESC, plug ESC signal wire (orange/white/yellow) and GNU wire (black/brown) into channel 2 (Throttle) of original receiver unit.
You will have to switch on/off the truck by plugging on/off battery then.
Thanks for explaining. I’m about to do this with my Tetra. That first part about removing the red wire, that’s from the 3 wire lead of the as12/15, yes? Because there’s nothing in channel 2 or the existing receiver/esc, or am I misunderstanding?
@@mvz2 If you will use the stock radio and stock receiver, you will not need (and cannot use) the BEC of the AS12/15. You will use the BEC of the Panda Hobby RX/ESC unit.
Therefore you will have to remove the red wire, so the BEC of the AS12/15 will not power the Panda RX/ESC unit. But you will need the orange (or white or yellow, depending on servo cable) wire (signal) and the black/brown wire (grounding).
And then you will have to plug this servo wire (without red) into channel 2 of the Panda RX/ESC unit.
Plug the motor to the AS12/15 and make a Y-cable to the Lipo, which then will power AS12/15 ESC and Panda rx unit (using the BEC of the Panda unit).
Got it. Thanks! You’re the best.
Just wanted to say I installed the esc with the stock radio and it’s like a completely different truck now. So smooth and quiet.
What battery should I get for more run time
Any 2s Lipo with higher mAh - so any larger battery. Since Lipo shipping is a problem actually, and I do not know where you live, it does not make much sense to give links. Check your local shop or Hobbyking, Amazon...
@@donaldsneffe I know more mah, but the battery tray in the back is so small most mah I can see fit is 1000mah, and even if I can get bigger battery than that, the weight in the back where the battery goes. may effect performance. I thought you may have more experience In battery options or maybe changing location, of battery to distribute weight better
@@jayroverduzco2291 Yes, but I use even smaller batteries. More runtime is not important for me. I use mostly 300 mAh and 260 mAh 2s Turnigy Nanotech/Hobbyking and 450 mAh SLS 2s, and even smaller 180 mAh 3s Nanotech. You can swap out for example battery to front and receiver unit to back, but this needs longer servo wires.
There is no solution for this problem, the Panda is not an awesome crawler.
I like the Turnigy 1000 mAh 2s Lipo... it is cheap and works well in my WPL Trucks, way enough for a small crawler (but unfortunately out of stock actually): hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-1000mah-2s-20c-lipo-pack.html?affiliate_code=PREBYDYCUEBOAHL&_asc=8060956598
Is it good in soft sand?
never tried... it is fast and has big tires, so probably ok.
Hello bro, hey I have a question, 2 days ago I bought a car, katana and then I was wondering if it is normal or not that when using it after 10 minutes the engine gets hot, because if it heats up I touch it for a few seconds and It feels like it burns slightly, then I hear that the car makes a slight noise like scraping or something like that in the gear system, by chance could you help me, I see that you have a lot of experience in cars like these.
After 10 minutes? It is hard to say, how did you drive the car? If you drive it for 10 minutes without stopping with full power, the motor can be that hot. Katana is super heavy, so the motor will get warmer than in most of the other small trucks.
But maybe there is a problem with your drivetrain? Something is scrapping, not spinning freely? Check the drivetrain, if there is a problem. Katana is easy to maintain, only 4 screws to take the body off (I have a video about this). Then remove central transmission with motor (only 3 screws from underside, driveshafts can stay on) and check if front- and rear axle spin freely and if there is a problem in the central transmission.
@@donaldsneffe Yes bro, 10 minutes more or less, the car I only drive at low to medium speed, but it may be because I used it for a long time, about the weird sound, I already disarmed and checked the katana and from what I see the sound comes of the gears, I have not been able to open it because it is well adjusted with the screws but I am sure that it is the gear system where the sound comes from. One question, in case I need a replacement engine in the future, do you know where I could find one bro?
@@josleonardohardydiaz4181 Only 3 screws from below to remove the central gearbox (but body has to be off).
Spare motors are cheap (but prices have raised recently, probably because of the high demand), but actually often out of stock (because SCX24 drivers buy them). The RGT and the HobbyPlus motor are the same, you can use both. Some links to the motors, maybe buy when in stock, they are out of stock regularly, RGT comes with pinion, Hobby Plus not:
www.asiatees.com/display?Hobby-Plus-CR-18-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Hobby%20Plus&model=CR-18&id=176907&pid=1
www.asiatees.com/display?RGT-1%2F24-ADVENTURER-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=RGT&model=1%2F24+ADVENTURER&id=148552&pid=1
www.banggood.com/13625-050-High-Power-Brushed-RC-Car-Motor-For-RGT-136240-V2-1-or-24-Vehicle-RC-Rock-Crawler-Off-road-Parts-p-1625217.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search&p=6S2910081756201209IA&custlinkid=1456705
@@donaldsneffe Great thank you very much brother, I will continue watching your videos, I love the content of this channel. regards :)
i like body but not headlights
Body looks ok, but quality is not so good. I ordered a Atlas 6x6 canopy and probably will use this and make custom rear part. Atlas 6x6 body is way, way, way better quality (thick lexan).
The lights are controllable on my tetra I just flip the switch on the controller and they turn off and on
But probably you do not have the "Sport" version?
@@donaldsneffe it is a sport tetra the newer one with aluminum shocks.
Have you tried flipping plug on the pins
@@juanrascon7743 So the same as I do have? Strange... I guess I tried everything... yes, flipping plug...
Do not have stock electronic anymore in the truck... maybe I will try again, however, wont use the stock elo enymore. But if you flip a plug on a LED, it wont work anymore... and since my LEDs do work, they have to be plugged in correctly. Center is red, outer black.
Does your Tetra have a light controller? There must be a lighcontroller (simple on/off switch) somewhere, out of the rx unit.
@@donaldsneffe its the stock esc and controller I woder if it just a error in manufacturing because mine worked fine right from the start I did just have to turn the plug. I do love the speed of the truck I wish they would make a rock bouncer body for this truck
@@juanrascon7743 OK, yes, this is strange... I saw in the video of RCSparks, who has the same truck as I or we, that he obviously also was not able to switch light by remote (at least he did not show it).
I asked Banggood customer service about this, but they also did not have an answer.
But, in contrary to you, I hate this high speed (to be exact: the bad low speed modulation) in this truck, it is awful. So I intended to change electronics anyway. But who knows, maybe a better ESC would even work with stock receiver and radio, I did not test. Wonder how the "speed switch" (what is Dual Rate) would react.
You are right, this would be good for a Rock Bouncer...