Exactly! Plus im going from a 300 to a 650 so I knew the first few days riding it I wouldnt even be able to use all the power it has anyway. I like to get to a point where I am using every last bit of the power a bike has stock before I go searching for those extra few ponys. Thanks for watching🤙
@@nickbuchananracing essir. Riding a "slower" bike to its limits will make you a way better rider when you turn up the HP I think. Plus it's safer to have the bike easily handle the HP, not the HP overwhelm the bike. Enjoy.
Good job. I still have mine from 2013 down in the shed. Faults that i had with mine. If getting caught in the wet stuff the front plug socket will puddle with water and bike will run badly. I filled mine with red rubber grease. sorted. The other problem was stalling at lean angles. Replaced the tip sensor for a new one. Sorted. Great bikes to track. Sound is awesome and always gets attention.
@@nickbuchananracing You're welcome. Lol an sv325.... must have been a rough ride when that happened. I did a little racing on mine but soon learned that crashing, repair costs, bodily injuries was all part of the game. It was fun while it lasted. I got the bike back into good shape but never rode it again. Emotionally attached to it I've never been able to let go of her. Take care Nick... all the best.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing. This and the linked track video. I just did a two day at NCBike and went out after that and bought a more appropriate track bike, a 2003 SV650 in silver, so this whole thing was fascinating for me. Super cool.
Thanks for watching. Ive got a few more videos of onboard footage at ncbike as of recently. They are good bikes for sure, feel free to hmu if you have any sv650 related questions. Im on FB and IG @nickbuchananracing
Tech grip, I was in 2009 the first to try this product before it went into production, it would slide around without gaffa tape keeping it in place and it weight is 100x heavier than good old Stomp Grip
Tech spec, yea its a little thicker than stompgrip. In my experience they both work pretty good. The adhesive on the techspec seems good. I cleaned it properly, and warmed up the tank with a heat gun before applying it so maybe that helped, but so far hasnt come undone yet.
@@nickbuchananracing they ended up changing the adhesive when to many complained way back I just felt the weight was unnecessary as we pay so much to save grams
Great setup and very helpfull video. Thanks for sharing your SV details. I wonder if you've weighted your bike after those changes, did you save some kg . Also you could make an update if you already get a full exhoust and maybe another mods. How would you rate or list the changes you've made from the most impact on your ride handling on the track to the less important ? Good luck on racing SV !
Thanks, as far as weight goes, I weighed it on scales at post race inspection and it was at 368 lbs with about 3 gallons in the tank. So maybe call it 375 with a full tank. Compared to the claimed 440lbs from stock. That means ive lost about 65 lbs with all the mods ive done
That bike is super nice I’d say. I’m on the east coast like you, how much do you pay to race around these parts? Assuming it’s different than “track days”? I’m trying to get into doing this, but so hard finding solid info online
Hit me up on facebook messenger sometime during the daytime. Ill give you some info on how to get into club racing. My facebook is @nickbuchananrcing or just Nick Buchanan.
Nick, was this originally an S or an N? I have the same hotbodies fairings and I'm trying to figure out how to mount the upper near the airbox & frame since the naked version doesn't have any fairing stays there. I see you added some metal brackets to the bottom parts on the lower too, looks great! Also when you got the overflow tank did you get rid of the original overflow tank? Would love to see a detailed video of how you did both the fairings and the cooling stuff.
Hey, this was originally an S model so it came with the fairing brackets for the upper fairing, on the left and right sides of the tank. To fit the belly pan without it being too high up and touching the exhaust, I did have to bend the stock brackets down about a inch to lower the upper fairing location enough so that the belly pan has enough room. Basically lower the upper to lower the belly pan. The lower belly pan mounts were aluminium flat bar. Had to tap the kickstand holes to receive bolts and drill and tap the other side to match. The only downside is if you really lean far, the fasteners rub the ground( check my facebook or instagram to see a pic of that happening from my last race weekend, it rubbed the dzues fasteners off lol) The stock overflow tank is deleted and I just run a hose from the radiator to the overflow tank, and then the tank outlet is run to the belly pan incase the overflow tank overflows. The exact location of the tank I found out could use an adjustment, since its angled, when coolant flows in, it always traps a few ounces inside that cant return backwards when things cool off, so I need to mount it more level, amd ideally, level or slightly below the level of the radiator cap. Check my facebook or instagram for some other pics and details of the build. Got lots of post over the last 12 months. Facebook and IG is @nickbuchananracing Thanks for watching!
@@nickbuchananracing Would have never thought about dragging Dzues fasteners LOL! Anyway good to know, I wonder if I can use those upper S mounting brackets on the N? Maybe the location on the inside of the frame is still there. The only drawback to keeping the stock overflow tank is where it's it basically right?
@@DylonND the brackets mount to the inside of the frame and i would imagine the frame is the exact same for s or n models so if you get some brackets the mounting holes SHOULD be there. Thats what I would try if I were you. And about the coolant tank, yea the only downside to keeping it in the stock location is just that its harder to get to, functionally its just fine.
@@nickbuchananracing Nick, I was curious also what you do for cable line management (like wiring harness and brake lines)? it looks so neat and tidy compared to my bike haha.
@@DylonND lots of zip ties to keep the harness tidy. My harness is also a custom harness I made so it has WAY few connections. The brake lines are also Galfer and they have enough length to route them in such a way to attach a few brackets and zip ties to also tidy them up.
Good video 👍 I’m not super familiar with the SV’s for track use, but looking at one (1999) for a first dedicated track bike (still carbed ). Most information has the date range of 1999 to 2003 before a design change. Is this one in that same model range ?
This is the 2nd gen. So in the usa the 1st gen was from 1999-2002. In 2003 (this bike) the 2nd gen was released and went from 03-09. The 1st gen bikes are cool in some ways but a 2nd gen is probably a better track bike. A bit more modern and easier to get parts for it, be it used parts aftermarket upgrades. Thanks for watching🤙
Thanks for clarifying. (the bike actually has everything to switch over to fuel injection but I haven’t done the research on the 1999 FI conversion yet.). Cheers
With the oil cooler delete isn't there more to it than simply plugging up the holes with drain plugs? Thought I'd read something somewhere about this... . Cheers.
As far as I know, just plug the holes but dont use bolts too long. I made sure to get bolts that end up no further inside the engine than the oil cooler bolts when installed
Nice work. I’ve just got the same model with an aftermarket exhaust fitted. Do you need to adjust any electronics for this? I have an FI warning light on my dash which I presume is as a result of this. Would be good to know what that means
You can check FI light yourself with no special tools. In the rear of your motorcycle like under the rider seat or passenger seat, there is a white wiring connector that goes nowhere and should just have a rubber cap on it. Id have to look it up in the book later but you can jump two of the pins in that connector with a short bit of wire or paperclip even. Then with the ignition turned back on and with the pins jumped, the computer will start displaying trouble codes on the dash. It will display all codes then repeat. Just look up which two pins it is.good luck
As for the exhaust, if its a full system you need to get a tune done to the motorcycle. Flash tune/power commander/dyno tune. Whatever. If its just a slip on usually its okay to not tune it but the slip on my bike has might be a little bit too free flowing. I actually swapped it back out with a more restrictive slip on so that it would run correct without a re tune.
Yeah it looks like a slip on (Mivv Oval stainless) and runs fine although while gently revving it shortly after start and letting the throttle pop back so it pops a little caused it to stall so yeah I reckon it's free flowing a little too much. Ok that's great. Maybe the FI issue will be part of the after market exhaust so hopefully I'll kill 2 birds there. Thanks very much for the help@@nickbuchananracing
No, its too wide. You need to get a gsxr 600 wheel and get a modified sprocket carrier and brake caliper hanger I think. Look up gsxr wheel conversion stuff and you should find specific info. Personally I dont think its worth the trouble but to each their own.
The front brake calipers are just terrible. I put in a new radial brake machine, new reinforced brake hoses, but this did not save the situation in any way, now I have installed calipers from vtr1000, I am waiting for spring to check. How do you like the brakes on your bike?
Thanks for watching the video! I have no clue what this says 😀 I cant translate it to ENGLISH but if you can translate it id love to hear what you have to say.
Don't know if this was asked already (didn't see it at least), but would you mind just giving a ballpark price range of how much your conversion cost? (Minus the hotbodies kit).
Sure thing, as it was in my video, Non running stock sv650 I bought for $700 Sold $120 worth of stock parts off it So effectivly $580 for the bike Then about $3000 in noticable upgrades, sort of stuff i mentioned in the video or you would notice when looking over the bike. Not including the hotbodies kit. But also stuff you dont see is about $1500 in parts to rebuild or replace all the stuff when I was fixing up the bike. Not upgrades so much as just repairs. Bearings, fuel pump rebuild, fork seals, ignition coils, thermostat...ect. So around 5k total investment. Maybe not the most economical choice but it is a pretty solid bike now that I spent all this time and money on it. If it means anything to you, since then I have also put a quickshifter and pcV on the bike(about $700)
@@nickbuchananracing Thanks! Been looking at SV650s and am trying to gauge buying stock used and building or going with a "track ready" for sale. Your numbers help me get an idea of relative value. Appreciate it.
What model is the Vortex rear sets that you have, as on their site it says this none that fit an SV. If you know the model or part number that’d be great? Thanks
Vortex has a small technical glitch or their website. Search by your make (suzuki) and year, but DONT click SV650-S. All their parts are found under just regular SV650.
Yes the whole bike is 2003. The subframe is 2003 but I cut the back section off. The tail fairing is a Hotbodies Racing tail as is the rest of the bodywork
Ive been using Pirelli Superbike Slicks. SC1 front and SC1 rear. 25 hot in the rear and around 33-34 hot in the front. Im not some tire guru but thats what ive been running and it feels pretty good to me. The tires in the video are the Pirelli SC3 track day tires. I usually run those around the same hot pressures. If youre just doing track days, in my opinion I think the SC3 track days tires are plenty good
@@nickbuchananracing Thanks. I have a newer ZX14 shock on my '07 which I'm just starting to do track days with. It's got what I believe is a 9.35 kg stock spring on it. I'm probably better suited with something around 9 as a 200lb novice.
@@chrisw8925 maybe a little stiff but as you get faster it will be better to have a shock that isnt too soft for you. You should be fine to leave it. If you want a softer shock, the 06-08 zx10 shock I have is stock with a 8.3 kg/mm rate. I have a video showing how to install one of those on a sv
Авто/Мото
Nice man. The smart rider upgrades the engine last - all your mods are for a proper track bike - nice.
Exactly! Plus im going from a 300 to a 650 so I knew the first few days riding it I wouldnt even be able to use all the power it has anyway. I like to get to a point where I am using every last bit of the power a bike has stock before I go searching for those extra few ponys. Thanks for watching🤙
@@nickbuchananracing essir. Riding a "slower" bike to its limits will make you a way better rider when you turn up the HP I think. Plus it's safer to have the bike easily handle the HP, not the HP overwhelm the bike. Enjoy.
Good job. I still have mine from 2013 down in the shed. Faults that i had with mine. If getting caught in the wet stuff the front plug socket will puddle with water and bike will run badly. I filled mine with red rubber grease. sorted. The other problem was stalling at lean angles. Replaced the tip sensor for a new one. Sorted. Great bikes to track. Sound is awesome and always gets attention.
Thanks for watching. Luckily the only failure I had on track last yeat was a fuel injector failed and became a sv325 till I figured it out.
@@nickbuchananracing You're welcome. Lol an sv325.... must have been a rough ride when that happened. I did a little racing on mine but soon learned that crashing, repair costs, bodily injuries was all part of the game. It was fun while it lasted. I got the bike back into good shape but never rode it again. Emotionally attached to it I've never been able to let go of her. Take care Nick... all the best.
Gorgeous machine. 100%
Thanks man. I tried hard to make it legit.
Nice build man! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
Awesome video, thanks for sharing. This and the linked track video. I just did a two day at NCBike and went out after that and bought a more appropriate track bike, a 2003 SV650 in silver, so this whole thing was fascinating for me. Super cool.
Thanks for watching. Ive got a few more videos of onboard footage at ncbike as of recently. They are good bikes for sure, feel free to hmu if you have any sv650 related questions. Im on FB and IG @nickbuchananracing
Hey! MRP Motorsports in the house 😊
This is awesome, super interesting!
Thanks! Glad u like it
Great work.
Thanks!
Very cool!)
Beautiful work on your bike. You are truly blessed. I hope you stay well.
Thanks! I feel blessed to be able to do what I love and be creative. Thanks for watching. 👍
Should check out the Hindle pipe.
would those vortex clip-ons work stock sv 650 ,,i mean with fairing inner panels
Tech grip, I was in 2009 the first to try this product before it went into production, it would slide around without gaffa tape keeping it in place and it weight is 100x heavier than good old Stomp Grip
Tech spec, yea its a little thicker than stompgrip. In my experience they both work pretty good. The adhesive on the techspec seems good. I cleaned it properly, and warmed up the tank with a heat gun before applying it so maybe that helped, but so far hasnt come undone yet.
@@nickbuchananracing they ended up changing the adhesive when to many complained way back I just felt the weight was unnecessary as we pay so much to save grams
Great setup and very helpfull video. Thanks for sharing your SV details. I wonder if you've weighted your bike after those changes, did you save some kg . Also you could make an update if you already get a full exhoust and maybe another mods. How would you rate or list the changes you've made from the most impact on your ride handling on the track to the less important ? Good luck on racing SV !
Thanks, as far as weight goes, I weighed it on scales at post race inspection and it was at 368 lbs with about 3 gallons in the tank. So maybe call it 375 with a full tank. Compared to the claimed 440lbs from stock. That means ive lost about 65 lbs with all the mods ive done
That bike is super nice I’d say. I’m on the east coast like you, how much do you pay to race around these parts? Assuming it’s different than “track days”? I’m trying to get into doing this, but so hard finding solid info online
Hit me up on facebook messenger sometime during the daytime. Ill give you some info on how to get into club racing. My facebook is @nickbuchananrcing or just Nick Buchanan.
Nick, was this originally an S or an N? I have the same hotbodies fairings and I'm trying to figure out how to mount the upper near the airbox & frame since the naked version doesn't have any fairing stays there. I see you added some metal brackets to the bottom parts on the lower too, looks great! Also when you got the overflow tank did you get rid of the original overflow tank? Would love to see a detailed video of how you did both the fairings and the cooling stuff.
Hey, this was originally an S model so it came with the fairing brackets for the upper fairing, on the left and right sides of the tank. To fit the belly pan without it being too high up and touching the exhaust, I did have to bend the stock brackets down about a inch to lower the upper fairing location enough so that the belly pan has enough room. Basically lower the upper to lower the belly pan.
The lower belly pan mounts were aluminium flat bar. Had to tap the kickstand holes to receive bolts and drill and tap the other side to match. The only downside is if you really lean far, the fasteners rub the ground( check my facebook or instagram to see a pic of that happening from my last race weekend, it rubbed the dzues fasteners off lol)
The stock overflow tank is deleted and I just run a hose from the radiator to the overflow tank, and then the tank outlet is run to the belly pan incase the overflow tank overflows. The exact location of the tank I found out could use an adjustment, since its angled, when coolant flows in, it always traps a few ounces inside that cant return backwards when things cool off, so I need to mount it more level, amd ideally, level or slightly below the level of the radiator cap. Check my facebook or instagram for some other pics and details of the build. Got lots of post over the last 12 months. Facebook and IG is @nickbuchananracing
Thanks for watching!
@@nickbuchananracing Would have never thought about dragging Dzues fasteners LOL! Anyway good to know, I wonder if I can use those upper S mounting brackets on the N? Maybe the location on the inside of the frame is still there. The only drawback to keeping the stock overflow tank is where it's it basically right?
@@DylonND the brackets mount to the inside of the frame and i would imagine the frame is the exact same for s or n models so if you get some brackets the mounting holes SHOULD be there. Thats what I would try if I were you. And about the coolant tank, yea the only downside to keeping it in the stock location is just that its harder to get to, functionally its just fine.
@@nickbuchananracing Nick, I was curious also what you do for cable line management (like wiring harness and brake lines)? it looks so neat and tidy compared to my bike haha.
@@DylonND lots of zip ties to keep the harness tidy. My harness is also a custom harness I made so it has WAY few connections. The brake lines are also Galfer and they have enough length to route them in such a way to attach a few brackets and zip ties to also tidy them up.
Good video 👍
I’m not super familiar with the SV’s for track use, but looking at one (1999) for a first dedicated track bike (still carbed ). Most information has the date range of 1999 to 2003 before a design change. Is this one in that same model range ?
This is the 2nd gen. So in the usa the 1st gen was from 1999-2002. In 2003 (this bike) the 2nd gen was released and went from 03-09. The 1st gen bikes are cool in some ways but a 2nd gen is probably a better track bike. A bit more modern and easier to get parts for it, be it used parts aftermarket upgrades. Thanks for watching🤙
Thanks for clarifying.
(the bike actually has everything to switch over to fuel injection but I haven’t done the research on the 1999 FI conversion yet.).
Cheers
With the oil cooler delete isn't there more to it than simply plugging up the holes with drain plugs? Thought I'd read something somewhere about this... . Cheers.
As far as I know, just plug the holes but dont use bolts too long. I made sure to get bolts that end up no further inside the engine than the oil cooler bolts when installed
You need to remove the grub screw behind the oil filter
Nice work. I’ve just got the same model with an aftermarket exhaust fitted. Do you need to adjust any electronics for this? I have an FI warning light on my dash which I presume is as a result of this. Would be good to know what that means
You can check FI light yourself with no special tools. In the rear of your motorcycle like under the rider seat or passenger seat, there is a white wiring connector that goes nowhere and should just have a rubber cap on it. Id have to look it up in the book later but you can jump two of the pins in that connector with a short bit of wire or paperclip even. Then with the ignition turned back on and with the pins jumped, the computer will start displaying trouble codes on the dash. It will display all codes then repeat. Just look up which two pins it is.good luck
As for the exhaust, if its a full system you need to get a tune done to the motorcycle. Flash tune/power commander/dyno tune. Whatever. If its just a slip on usually its okay to not tune it but the slip on my bike has might be a little bit too free flowing. I actually swapped it back out with a more restrictive slip on so that it would run correct without a re tune.
Awesome thanks I'll do that @@nickbuchananracing
Yeah it looks like a slip on (Mivv Oval stainless) and runs fine although while gently revving it shortly after start and letting the throttle pop back so it pops a little caused it to stall so yeah I reckon it's free flowing a little too much. Ok that's great. Maybe the FI issue will be part of the after market exhaust so hopefully I'll kill 2 birds there. Thanks very much for the help@@nickbuchananracing
is it ok if i can run 180 rear tier on stock rim and stock swing arm
No, its too wide. You need to get a gsxr 600 wheel and get a modified sprocket carrier and brake caliper hanger I think. Look up gsxr wheel conversion stuff and you should find specific info. Personally I dont think its worth the trouble but to each their own.
The front brake calipers are just terrible. I put in a new radial brake machine, new reinforced brake hoses, but this did not save the situation in any way, now I have installed calipers from vtr1000, I am waiting for spring to check. How do you like the brakes on your bike?
Thanks for watching the video! I have no clue what this says 😀 I cant translate it to ENGLISH but if you can translate it id love to hear what you have to say.
Don't know if this was asked already (didn't see it at least), but would you mind just giving a ballpark price range of how much your conversion cost? (Minus the hotbodies kit).
Sure thing, as it was in my video,
Non running stock sv650 I bought for $700
Sold $120 worth of stock parts off it
So effectivly $580 for the bike
Then about $3000 in noticable upgrades, sort of stuff i mentioned in the video or you would notice when looking over the bike. Not including the hotbodies kit.
But also stuff you dont see is about $1500 in parts to rebuild or replace all the stuff when I was fixing up the bike. Not upgrades so much as just repairs. Bearings, fuel pump rebuild, fork seals, ignition coils, thermostat...ect.
So around 5k total investment. Maybe not the most economical choice but it is a pretty solid bike now that I spent all this time and money on it. If it means anything to you, since then I have also put a quickshifter and pcV on the bike(about $700)
@@nickbuchananracing Thanks! Been looking at SV650s and am trying to gauge buying stock used and building or going with a "track ready" for sale. Your numbers help me get an idea of relative value. Appreciate it.
What model is the Vortex rear sets that you have, as on their site it says this none that fit an SV.
If you know the model or part number that’d be great?
Thanks
Vortex has a small technical glitch or their website. Search by your make (suzuki) and year, but DONT click SV650-S. All their parts are found under just regular SV650.
www.vortexracing.com/product-category/rs/
www.sportbiketrackgear.com/vortex-adjustable-rearsets-suzuki-sv650-03-10/
Is that a 2003 subframe? And where did you get the tail fairing for it
Yes the whole bike is 2003. The subframe is 2003 but I cut the back section off. The tail fairing is a Hotbodies Racing tail as is the rest of the bodywork
Aight thank you vary much for the quick reply
@@enrikbardhi8934 anytime. Thanks for watching
What tires you running and what psi hot?
Ive been using Pirelli Superbike Slicks. SC1 front and SC1 rear. 25 hot in the rear and around 33-34 hot in the front. Im not some tire guru but thats what ive been running and it feels pretty good to me. The tires in the video are the Pirelli SC3 track day tires. I usually run those around the same hot pressures. If youre just doing track days, in my opinion I think the SC3 track days tires are plenty good
@@nickbuchananracing Thank you!
What rear spring rate did you decide on?
90 N/mm which is about 9.17 kg/mm
Thats for an expert club racer pace, but I prefer a little in the soft side so thats what the suspension shop suggested
Oh and im 170 lbs without gear on
@@nickbuchananracing Thanks. I have a newer ZX14 shock on my '07 which I'm just starting to do track days with. It's got what I believe is a 9.35 kg stock spring on it. I'm probably better suited with something around 9 as a 200lb novice.
@@chrisw8925 maybe a little stiff but as you get faster it will be better to have a shock that isnt too soft for you. You should be fine to leave it. If you want a softer shock, the 06-08 zx10 shock I have is stock with a 8.3 kg/mm rate. I have a video showing how to install one of those on a sv