I just said this in another video, always better to ask the customer what end result they’re looking for instead of how they think you should achieve it. They didn’t really want the thing cut to pieces, they wanted it off. Nicely done!
I'm positive the tapered sleeve is cast, and not sintered. To many features on different planes for sintering. Cast can produce some very large grain structures.
Yes its definitely Cast Iron, big keys should have a tapped hole to push up out of shaft. Correct about over torque in bush screws. We were always told Taper Lock bushes were so good they did not need a key, we always fitted one.
@@andrewmicas4327 You are correct. A properly mated tapered shaft connection does not require a key. In the real world things change a bit because it takes training to educate how to achieve and verify that fitment. So you get a belt or suspenders included (key ways) . That way should the connection fail it f's up all components in epic fashion.
those rosebuds are great but they suck down the acetelene that stuff is getting outrageous in mo seems like they dont put as much in as they used to i use a lot of propane now great video
I use to rebuild parking and adjusting cylinders for brake pods. Some bad rusted ones. Like real bad. Only way i could get them out was to heat the hell out of it, red hot, blew air into one port while hitting it with a heavy hammer on the end of tge cylinder. Blew out like a freakin rocket. Lol good times.
Great video, I saw a lot of taper-loks in my career as a millwright, exactly, too much torque or misapplied lube and you get the call. Enjoyed, cheers!
Always amazes me why they destroy it BEFORE they call the weldor 🤷🏻♂️! Spend the money. Call the weldor first. Ends up saving money in time, parts and aggravation.
I was trained to never use the impact on QD bushings tighten with a socket wretch and start tapping and get heat if needed some just need loving. The horrible ones only have 2 pushers
I usually start a job like that with penetrating oil like PB Blaster or WD-40 ! Usually makes the job a lot easier ! May still have to use a torch occasionally but the penetrating oil does help !Especially if you have time for it to set and work in !
@@OFW In all my experience, I have NEVER had penetrating oil be the deciding factor when it comes freeing seized/stuck items. Once you get something to move even a tiny bit, then and only then can penetrating oil actually help the progress as you work it between mating surfaces with movement. Generally if something is so tight/stuck that it takes hundreds of degrees of focused heat to budge, the stuck portions will be watertight and nothing's getting in.... penetrating oil will have left the chat, the stuff flashes off pretty quick.
@@OFW Yes I agree penetrating oil doesn't always work but if given enough time to penetrate it can work may take a couple applications but I've had success ! I agree it's not for all jobs but when you don't have access to a torch it's a good starting point !
@@victorjeffers1993 You have to remember that hired hands are not paid to think, even if they were some won’t. It all pays the same to some hired hands whether they do it right or wrong.
Yessir good and ( fairly ) easy job. IF you have a rosebub torch and a seemingly endless supply of acetylene. I wonder though, when you used the cold chisel to move that "keyway", isn't it really known as a KEY, which is in the KEYWAY that is cut into the shaft?
What I usually do for stuff like this is drill and tap the keyway and use a slide hammer to pull the keyway out first. Then heat the whole thing up and slide off.
Check at electrical store. They have little numbers that go over wires, they also work well with small zip ties. I use colored zip ties for smaller jobs.
what settings are you running on your rosebud? I cant for the life of me get mine to run without pooping and blowing out after about 3 minutes of run time. brand new rosebud, new guages, new hoses..
you removed the key.... it's impossible to remove a keyway without filling it in with glue. My daddy taught me the difference when I was very young. There is a key and a way... the key is the sliver of steel. The way is the groove the key fits into. Ways on a lathe are the same, but not keyed... operating in pairs and halves. The different metal is called sintered. Made using electricity, powdered metal and hydraulic pressure.... and it's still trash. Imagine that!
The piece is called 'sintered powder metal', a metalic powder is pressed and heated under high pressure and temperature into a specific form, fusing the powder into a solid piece. It is a cheap process of making parts with no machine finishing. A better quality part would be machined from solid steel and would cost 5 times as much.
So you have three main pieces: 1. Shaft 2. Sleeve 3. Pulley You heat the pulley from the outside to what? Make the sleeve expand in diameter? That relieves enough friction from between the sleeve and the shaft or something? What are you expanding, and where are you reducing friction between those 3 pieces when you expand the metal?
The pulley expands away from the sleeve by only a few thousands of an inch but it’s enough to brake it loose. If the sleeve got too hot it could have the reverse effect. Expanding into the pulley.
sorry please stop asking me to fix stupid for you lol when a read seal millwright uses red lock tight on a new bearing inside the housing it is time for me to leave the trades you don't want to know his large bottle of red lock tight ran out when he was going to put the bearing back on the shaft too i must have slept throw that day in trade school lol red lock tight use i have the smallest bottle of red lock-tight which lasted me a year too oh i don't soak the part in lock-tight as people who work for me need to have a simple test into how much lock-tight they should use i got questioned by a young person said i should not be using that on bearings i was happy he knew that too he said he was told in school to soak the bolt with lock tight he said told me it was wrong to in his mind well could not push him up at all
I just said this in another video, always better to ask the customer what end result they’re looking for instead of how they think you should achieve it. They didn’t really want the thing cut to pieces, they wanted it off. Nicely done!
I’ve NEVER seen someone beat a fire out… with a sledgehammer 🙌🙌🙌💪🏻
Common sense goes a long way! But, I find common sense is not so common anymore! Great job!
the don't argue hammer.
That joker was stuck on there. Even with all that heat it still took s beating
Arson and mashing things with hammers, two of the perks of the job 😄
You’ve passed the 10 million views mark, congrats for your efforts and skills. Onwards to 100 million 😁😁
Greg, they should call you ....'The Fastest Torch in the West'
That's the difference between a mechanic and a Millwright !! They could have saved that taper if they used some heat from the beginning......
Cake! Heat is our friend! Thx.
It is called sintered metal if it is not cast. good job
When its cold and it doesn't work. You tell her "Just needs a little heat"!
I'm positive the tapered sleeve is cast, and not sintered. To many features on different planes for sintering. Cast can produce some very large grain structures.
Yes its definitely Cast Iron, big keys should have a tapped hole to push up out of shaft. Correct about over torque in bush screws. We were always told Taper Lock bushes were so good they did not need a key, we always fitted one.
Good point, we have ones here in the UK which are billit machined also cast for low speed stuff.
@@andrewmicas4327 You are correct. A properly mated tapered shaft connection does not require a key. In the real world things change a bit because it takes training to educate how to achieve and verify that fitment. So you get a belt or suspenders included (key ways) . That way should the connection fail it f's up all components in epic fashion.
Ain’t nothin a BFH can fix.. awesome.
There is no substitute for experience , nicely done !
The pros don't spare the fire, or the hammer....
those rosebuds are great but they suck down the acetelene that stuff is getting outrageous in mo seems like they dont put as much in as they used to i use a lot of propane now great video
I've got that same articulating pry bar. I love that thing.
Could be used in a zombie apocalypse ...
Nice an short.
Thats the way a professionals doing it!
😊
Thanks Greg, thats a fairly big rosebud, so it must really put out the heat. Appreciate the video!
THank you for your Videos. Its amazing what a little know how does.
My first thought was applying anti seize on the shaft when installing the pulley and the pulley lock.
Thanks good video love the work you do.
Smart man!!!
79 👍's up on fire welding thank you for sharing 😊
Heat is the key. Just like that.😊
Thank yo for sharing, always a pleasure watch your project, Everytime I learn a lot👍👍👍👍
Greg, when your hot, your hot.......great show.....Paul
I use to rebuild parking and adjusting cylinders for brake pods. Some bad rusted ones. Like real bad. Only way i could get them out was to heat the hell out of it, red hot, blew air into one port while hitting it with a heavy hammer on the end of tge cylinder. Blew out like a freakin rocket. Lol good times.
Great video, I saw a lot of taper-loks in my career as a millwright, exactly, too much torque or misapplied lube and
you get the call. Enjoyed, cheers!
Always amazes me why they destroy it BEFORE they call the weldor 🤷🏻♂️! Spend the money. Call the weldor first. Ends up saving money in time, parts and aggravation.
I was trained to never use the impact on QD bushings tighten with a socket wretch and start tapping and get heat if needed some just need loving. The horrible ones only have 2 pushers
very interesting the diverse job types, you get called to do!
Heat is some magic stuff. Never use antiseize. Only on the bolts.
Nice work as always 👍4:45 i'd say Like a rusted glove 😊
You the man.. good job..
Ya gotta luv them acetylene torches dude
Quick. Informative. Solid filming. Thanks
I totally thought that was cast, great video though 👍
Man,you make it look so easy! Wow! Thanks for sharing!
Don't force it, get s bigger hammer!
Actually, the key came out of the keyway.
Good work 👍
I'll break it then I'll ring the man
Awesome 😎 😊
Olá amigo acompanhando o trabalho!!!
Boa sorte sempre!!!
Nicely done,,clean, tidy! Cheers!;-)!
I usually start a job like that with penetrating oil like PB Blaster or WD-40 ! Usually makes the job a lot easier ! May still have to use a torch occasionally but the penetrating oil does help !Especially if you have time for it to set and work in !
I have done this exact thing about 30 times. My first several times I soaked it in penetrating oil and it made no difference.
@@OFW In all my experience, I have NEVER had penetrating oil be the deciding factor when it comes freeing seized/stuck items. Once you get something to move even a tiny bit, then and only then can penetrating oil actually help the progress as you work it between mating surfaces with movement. Generally if something is so tight/stuck that it takes hundreds of degrees of focused heat to budge, the stuck portions will be watertight and nothing's getting in.... penetrating oil will have left the chat, the stuff flashes off pretty quick.
@@OFW Yes I agree penetrating oil doesn't always work but if given enough time to penetrate it can work may take a couple applications but I've had success ! I agree it's not for all jobs but when you don't have access to a torch it's a good starting point !
@@victorjeffers1993
You have to remember that hired hands are not paid to think, even if they were some won’t. It all pays the same to some hired hands whether they do it right or wrong.
You make it look so easy, thank you.
Thats the way to make money.
What a lesson!!!!😊
Longer video please.
Yessir good and ( fairly ) easy job. IF you have a rosebub torch and a seemingly endless supply of acetylene.
I wonder though, when you used the cold chisel to move that "keyway", isn't it really known as a KEY, which is in the KEYWAY that is cut into the shaft?
Yes, I removed the key out of the keyway
@@OFW Something like calling a four wheel drive vehicle a 'Jeep' I guess. LOL!
Great job as always 🦘
SKF make better adaptor bushes than that. Most have one grub screw to jack off and release taper. Guess its money for jam in your favor....
heating it first i bet i could have got it off without breaking it
Well done!
👍👍
With a rose bud that'll fall right off..
That is powdered sintered metal got really popular in last 20 yrs its cheap to manufacture but its crap
What’s better for heating metal Rosebud or torch head?
Rose bud for larger surface area.
👌🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
I have done alot of taper lock bushings like heat is the key and anti seize when the go back the next guy will thank you
Sintered powdered metal. Seems like a terrible idea in this application. Idk though. Maybe it's nodular iron like the other dude said. Cheers.
Pulley is bent from you beating on it hot, broski.
They are not using it again anyway
What I usually do for stuff like this is drill and tap the keyway and use a slide hammer to pull the keyway out first. Then heat the whole thing up and slide off.
Hi
Do you know where I can find numbered zip ties for making hydraulic lines?
Check at electrical store. They have little numbers that go over wires, they also work well with small zip ties. I use colored zip ties for smaller jobs.
They are powderd metal
Propylene?
Isn’t made out of Ductile iron?
No
Its nodular iron I believe.
what settings are you running on your rosebud? I cant for the life of me get mine to run without pooping and blowing out after about 3 minutes of run time. brand new rosebud, new guages, new hoses..
Honestly I don’t know. I just turned on the bottles and lit it.
you removed the key.... it's impossible to remove a keyway without filling it in with glue.
My daddy taught me the difference when I was very young. There is a key and a way... the key is the sliver of steel. The way is the groove the key fits into. Ways on a lathe are the same, but not keyed... operating in pairs and halves.
The different metal is called sintered. Made using electricity, powdered metal and hydraulic pressure.... and it's still trash. Imagine that!
The piece is called 'sintered powder metal', a metalic powder is pressed and heated under high pressure and temperature into a specific form, fusing the powder into a solid piece. It is a cheap process of making parts with no machine finishing. A better quality part would be machined from solid steel and would cost 5 times as much.
Hear the click. OK!
From the looks of it they would have never pulled it off
So you have three main pieces:
1. Shaft
2. Sleeve
3. Pulley
You heat the pulley from the outside to what? Make the sleeve expand in diameter? That relieves enough friction from between the sleeve and the shaft or something? What are you expanding, and where are you reducing friction between those 3 pieces when you expand the metal?
The pulley expands away from the sleeve by only a few thousands of an inch but it’s enough to brake it loose. If the sleeve got too hot it could have the reverse effect. Expanding into the pulley.
sorry please stop asking me to fix stupid for you lol
when a read seal millwright uses red lock tight on a new bearing inside the housing it is time for me to leave the trades you don't want to know his large bottle of red lock tight ran out when he was going to put the bearing back on the shaft too i must have slept throw that day in trade school lol red lock tight use
i have the smallest bottle of red lock-tight which lasted me a year too oh i don't soak the part in lock-tight as people who work for me need to have a simple test into how much lock-tight they should use i got questioned by a young person said i should not be using that on bearings i was happy he knew that too he said he was told in school to soak the bolt with lock tight he said told me it was wrong to in his mind
well could not push him up at all