I just got a bottle of this that I plan on using primarily for surface textures... For seam and gap I use Tamiya white or Milliput, etc. I use distilled water with acrylic paints and planned to with this putty but now I'm thinking I'll try some tests using Vallejo thinner, airbrush flow improver?...😮
Nice testing, This putty is not used for stuff you test, the advantage of this Putty is for Areas where you have gaps and can not be sandet, a. while you will destroy any detailing and can't be restored with an amount of huge effort, for example your King Tiger build from Tamiya where the Drive Sprockets covers. simply push this Putty in and go over it with a Brush damped with Water, in the same way remove the excess, the gap is filled, no sanding required
Yup... Watched a few other videos showing it being used and what you describe is exactly what it's best for. I think every putty/gap filling material/technique has a specific use where it really shines, but is only OK for most other uses and totally unsuitable for a few. This is no different, being just another "weapon" in your model building arsenal.
I use super glue to fill my deep scratches.If the scratches are very deep, I just fill it up with baking soda,soon after I apply the glue, or you can waste more super glue, whatever you like.
Staying away from it.. in building an F14A by Monogram, these models have fitment problems. The nose cone has gaps, and here is where I need a type of gap filling putty that hardens, not shrink and can be sanded.
I just got one to try with. Similar experience as you did. This rubber like putty is not good for sanding especially with water. As someone said, it is good for detail area without sanding. I prefer Tamiya white putty or green stuff for most application.
The problem being that Vallejo Putty is acrylic paint mixed with granite dust. It won't bond with plastic like solvent based fillers such as Tamiya Fine White. At best Vallejo's claim that it will dry rock hard, can be sculpted, carved, and drilled is misleading as the acrylic polymer really doesn't allow for that. Fine light sanding is about the gist of all it'll stand up to.
After trying to use it for everything where I think it could be useful, it simply isn't. It is crap. I ordered 3 tubes of it and I'm still trying to find a use for it. I'll stick to my Tamiya white and Mr Surfacer (sometimes mixed together).
Sanding is a prerequisite for using putty so worrying about excess around the edges is not essential. It does seem too rubbery for bigger gaps and would be more suitable for filling gaps on figures.
Graded sanding might work. I'm trying 2400 1200 600 to dry before sanding. sandpaper then painting. Dont know how long to leave the putty before sanding.
I have been using this stuff in a tube on my Tamiya T-34/76 kit. I was disappointed. I have had to reapply multiple times just to fill gaps and small holes. The biggest problem is shrinking and when sanding surface smooth I always have recessed areas in the area I filled in. I will not buy again.
Such a shame...I love Vallejo's paints, but their putty seems dreadful. I once had some Milliput that I used for filling gaps and applying a Zimmereit effect, but since I only ever kept it in my cold garage (where I make my models), both parts of it are solid and unusable now. Does green stuff have to be kept in particular conditions too?
Unfortunately it does. Your best bet is Aves Apoxy Sculpt as they come in separate containers so there is no chance of the two parts cross contaminating and causing premature curing of the epoxy putty.
Why don`t you try Squadron putty, mixed with Lacquer thinner (Green Putty or White Putty), you can apply this with an old brush, its very effective. Try it I am sure you will like it.
Squadron no longer make Green putty which is a shame. They now have a new colour called grey putty. The White and grey putty are also not the old formula that modellers liked. Squadron changed the formula and it is now a lot thinner and more watery. See the Squadron RUclips video about it. fans of the original Squadron green and formula are not happy. neither am I. I don't know what I'm going to use when my old supply of Green Squadron runs out.
I've seen it. It didn't exist when I decided to experiment with this stuff. I noticed they don't at all mention things like shrinkage, poor adhesion qualities and how it tends to crumble when sanded. I also noticed that they only use it from the tube with the thin applicator, which I suspect makes things a lot easier. Maybe it works better for other people, but I don't like it. Though it does look pretty useful for mud textures.
@@HerbertErpaderp : I'm french so please excuse my bad english. I use this putty as well and I can't decide why it works sometimes and don't others. It seems, but that's only my feeling, that water has an active part in the putty's behaviour. When smoothed with a brush and water, it becomes very hard when fully dried, but not always ! Used alone, it behaves like rubber, it makes crumbles when sanded as you experienced, but not always again and I can't explain why. Each time I need to correct a scribber's unwanted stripe or difference in thickness, I can't predict what will be the result ! This drives me quite puzzled. If someone knows what and why, please let us know.
the idea of pre-mixed filling putty is rather neat! usually vallejo products are very high quality.... this is not one of those cases... also, those tanks on the painting sticks.. are they part of next weeks video??
Its just acrylic putty. The guy that made the video doesnt seem to get that its pretty much just really thick pigmentless acrylic paint. And it off gasses as it dries just like acrylic paint... This stuff is meant for gap filling and texturing smooth surfaces. Hes not putting enough of it down. You overfill the gap or damage, smooth it with a watered brush, then sand the excess down. He repeatedly puts less than needed down or overwaters it then keeps complaining about how it shrinks down too small forcing another coat. While he admits he barely read anything about it he should have taken the time to learn how to actually use it before posting a "review". Its like driving a car youve never been in and only seen a commercial for around the block once and making "review". And judging by a bunch of the other people commenting on this video they also bought a tube, didnt read the instructions, didnt apply it correctly, then stopped using after only one or two attempts and complain about how terrible it is.
I tried some to fill pin holes, it's been 4 days and the putty will not dry hard enough to sand. I ended up picking the putty back out. So far I don't see how I can use this stuff for gaps or contouring. Bummer
it is a acrlic putty. which means after you apply it take a wet q-tip and wipe it away. I will fill the seam perfectly and remove the excess. also get the fine applicator version and it is perfect for pretty much everything. no sanding is meant to be done. I was made specifically for the technique I described here.
@@HerbertErpaderp I'm a novice, but even videos I've watched on the product, it seems you're using it for the wrong intentions. I hope so anyway, as I just bought it to fill seams after getting frustrated with results of Testors contour putty. I used the Testors as a kid in the 80's, so didn't know what else to use for gaps. That's all I knew of back then when we had actual hobby shops.
This putty behaves like the generic "wood filler putty" we have in hardware stores here. It's acrylic, so it doesn't bite to plastic, sands fine and solidifies rock hard. Shrinking and not biting to styrene are the main issues...
It doesnt shrink as badly if you get it wet after you apply it and not water it down and smear it on like a paint... For gods sake people need to read the instructions on shit they buy.
I used the bottle of Vallejo putty on a few projects and it sucks.It dosen't seems like it truly hardens and sands for crap.I'll stick with 3m red plastic filler.
I just got a bottle of this that I plan on using primarily for surface textures...
For seam and gap I use Tamiya white or Milliput, etc.
I use distilled water with acrylic paints and planned to with this putty but now I'm thinking I'll try some tests using Vallejo thinner, airbrush flow improver?...😮
Nice testing, This putty is not used for stuff you test, the advantage of this Putty is for Areas where you have gaps and can not be sandet, a. while you will destroy any detailing and can't be restored with an amount of huge effort, for example your King Tiger build from Tamiya where the Drive Sprockets covers. simply push this Putty in and go over it with a Brush damped with Water, in the same way remove the excess, the gap is filled, no sanding required
Yup... Watched a few other videos showing it being used and what you describe is exactly what it's best for. I think every putty/gap filling material/technique has a specific use where it really shines, but is only OK for most other uses and totally unsuitable for a few. This is no different, being just another "weapon" in your model building arsenal.
The Vallejo Putty in the tube seems to be better than the bottle type. Why it would be different I don't know.
Thank you for the review, i found it very useful. It also had 15mm Pershings in the background, i think, which made it even better.
You are right about the pershings. But I won't be finished with them for a while.
Love your videos and thank you for sharing 👍😃
For a guy who makes his own Sprule, which is greatly inconsistent this is a great looking material
I use super glue to fill my deep scratches.If the scratches are very deep, I just fill it up with baking soda,soon after I apply the glue, or you can waste more super glue, whatever you like.
Staying away from it.. in building an F14A by Monogram, these models have fitment problems. The nose cone has gaps, and here is where I need a type of gap filling putty that hardens, not shrink and can be sanded.
I just got one to try with. Similar experience as you did. This rubber like putty is not good for sanding especially with water. As someone said, it is good for detail area without sanding. I prefer Tamiya white putty or green stuff for most application.
I wonder if it is just decorators caulk...It seems to behave in a similar way
The problem being that Vallejo Putty is acrylic paint mixed with granite dust. It won't bond with plastic like solvent based fillers such as Tamiya Fine White. At best Vallejo's claim that it will dry rock hard, can be sculpted, carved, and drilled is misleading as the acrylic polymer really doesn't allow for that. Fine light sanding is about the gist of all it'll stand up to.
After trying to use it for everything where I think it could be useful, it simply isn't. It is crap. I ordered 3 tubes of it and I'm still trying to find a use for it. I'll stick to my Tamiya white and Mr Surfacer (sometimes mixed together).
Sanding is a prerequisite for using putty so worrying about excess around the edges is not essential. It does seem too rubbery for bigger gaps and would be more suitable for filling gaps on figures.
That's where I've used it. I found tamiya putty is too thick but this is perfect.
I had the same experience using it
This second time I'll try mixed with water and use the hairdryer right after for cast texture
Graded sanding might work. I'm trying 2400 1200 600 to dry before sanding.
sandpaper then painting. Dont know how long to leave the putty before sanding.
I had the same experience.
same, dont like it at all. thought i got a bad patch
Interesting review not sure idea use it
I really liked this.
You can try tamiya putty
I'll keep an eye out for it.
Would be better to use Green Stuff World UV resin bottle to paint it on (or fill it up), then hard it with UV light and sand/polish it.
I use Aves epoxy sculpt.
I have been using this stuff in a tube on my Tamiya T-34/76 kit. I was disappointed. I have had to reapply multiple times just to fill gaps and small holes. The biggest problem is shrinking and when sanding surface smooth I always have recessed areas in the area I filled in. I will not buy again.
Such a shame...I love Vallejo's paints, but their putty seems dreadful. I once had some Milliput that I used for filling gaps and applying a Zimmereit effect, but since I only ever kept it in my cold garage (where I make my models), both parts of it are solid and unusable now. Does green stuff have to be kept in particular conditions too?
Unfortunately it does. Your best bet is Aves Apoxy Sculpt as they come in separate containers so there is no chance of the two parts cross contaminating and causing premature curing of the epoxy putty.
If you use putty - be ready for shrinkage. Especially when you spread the putty with water.
I've had some alright experiences with it but not perfect though also are those painting in progress pershings in the background?
Games workshop has released liquid greenstuff that truly sets like greenstuff you might want to look at
That stuff shrinks a lot too from my experience ... I tend to just stick to black milliput now ;)
Liquid green stuff is literally just thick paint.
Horrible stuff. almost unusable
damn ! I bought it without researching first - DOH !
Why don`t you try Squadron putty, mixed with Lacquer thinner (Green Putty or White Putty), you can apply this with an old brush, its very effective. Try it I am sure you will like it.
Squadron no longer make Green putty which is a shame. They now have a new colour called grey putty. The White and grey putty are also not the old formula that modellers liked. Squadron changed the formula and it is now a lot thinner and more watery. See the Squadron RUclips video about it. fans of the original Squadron green and formula are not happy. neither am I. I don't know what I'm going to use when my old supply of Green Squadron runs out.
Vallejo has a video on using this product, maybe you should take a look.
I've seen it. It didn't exist when I decided to experiment with this stuff. I noticed they don't at all mention things like shrinkage, poor adhesion qualities and how it tends to crumble when sanded. I also noticed that they only use it from the tube with the thin applicator, which I suspect makes things a lot easier.
Maybe it works better for other people, but I don't like it. Though it does look pretty useful for mud textures.
@@HerbertErpaderp : I'm french so please excuse my bad english. I use this putty as well and I can't decide why it works sometimes and don't others. It seems, but that's only my feeling, that water has an active part in the putty's behaviour. When smoothed with a brush and water, it becomes very hard when fully dried, but not always ! Used alone, it behaves like rubber, it makes crumbles when sanded as you experienced, but not always again and I can't explain why. Each time I need to correct a scribber's unwanted stripe or difference in thickness, I can't predict what will be the result ! This drives me quite puzzled. If someone knows what and why, please let us know.
the idea of pre-mixed filling putty is rather neat! usually vallejo products are very high quality.... this is not one of those cases...
also, those tanks on the painting sticks.. are they part of next weeks video??
Nope. They won't be ready for a while.
Anything water based probably shrinks due to evaporation.
Its just acrylic putty. The guy that made the video doesnt seem to get that its pretty much just really thick pigmentless acrylic paint. And it off gasses as it dries just like acrylic paint... This stuff is meant for gap filling and texturing smooth surfaces. Hes not putting enough of it down. You overfill the gap or damage, smooth it with a watered brush, then sand the excess down. He repeatedly puts less than needed down or overwaters it then keeps complaining about how it shrinks down too small forcing another coat. While he admits he barely read anything about it he should have taken the time to learn how to actually use it before posting a "review". Its like driving a car youve never been in and only seen a commercial for around the block once and making "review". And judging by a bunch of the other people commenting on this video they also bought a tube, didnt read the instructions, didnt apply it correctly, then stopped using after only one or two attempts and complain about how terrible it is.
I tried some to fill pin holes, it's been 4 days and the putty will not dry hard enough to sand. I ended up picking the putty back out. So far I don't see how I can use this stuff for gaps or contouring. Bummer
it is a acrlic putty. which means after you apply it take a wet q-tip and wipe it away. I will fill the seam perfectly and remove the excess. also get the fine applicator version and it is perfect for pretty much everything. no sanding is meant to be done. I was made specifically for the technique I described here.
I'm not sure you watched the entire video. Particularly the part where I applied it as you described.
oh...... well shit. now i'm "THAT" guy
Haha, I'm sure we've all been *that guy* at some point.
@@HerbertErpaderp I'm a novice, but even videos I've watched on the product, it seems you're using it for the wrong intentions. I hope so anyway, as I just bought it to fill seams after getting frustrated with results of Testors contour putty. I used the Testors as a kid in the 80's, so didn't know what else to use for gaps. That's all I knew of back then when we had actual hobby shops.
Can this be used on metal?
Better to use Milliput.
This putty behaves like the generic "wood filler putty" we have in hardware stores here. It's acrylic, so it doesn't bite to plastic, sands fine and solidifies rock hard. Shrinking and not biting to styrene are the main issues...
It doesnt shrink as badly if you get it wet after you apply it and not water it down and smear it on like a paint... For gods sake people need to read the instructions on shit they buy.
Reminds me of caulking...
This is weird. I kept thinking I stumbled into Todd's Kitchen by mistake...
I used the bottle of Vallejo putty on a few projects and it sucks.It dosen't seems like it truly hardens and sands for crap.I'll stick with 3m red plastic filler.
I hope your real job isn't fixing dents in cars.
You're using it wrong. Like, abysmally wrong. You're supposed to apply it to small gaps with a brush in small models that have gaps in the joints.
Have a cry about it, cunt.
Your using it wrong.
I tried it a year ago. It was rubbish IMO. I went back to Tamiya putty.