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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
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An overview and step by step of how to refinish / re-seam the teak decks on your boat! A list of materials used will be included in the writeup on my website :-)
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Hands down best boat repair show there is.
The number one guide to teak deck caulking - thank you!
I know this video was done almost 6 years ago, but only now seeing it. DYNAMITE! Great instructional video.
This is the best tutorial on replacing caulk on a teak deck, that I have cseen so far. The advice regarding use of the razor knife, reefing hook and the multitool I found to be spot on. My only comments are to follow the TDS recomendation to first clean the deck using their teak cleaner and the use of blue painters tape prior to caulking. The TDS cleaning worked well and the painters tape was quick both to put on, and remove afterwards. It really was a snap, saving a lot of teak from being sanded away.
Brilliant. Crimping the end of the caulk tube to get into the groove.
My brother just bought a ocean 40 and he wants me to fix it, after looking at your tutorial video, I was amazed on how you explain everything, I love your videos and, well what else can I say, thank you
I re-caulked a Camper & Nicholson 60' in South of France some years ago. I wish I'd seen this excellent demo' before I started though; it would have saved me a shed-load of masking tape...
Great information, as always. If you ever have a client that wants to remove the teak decks and go to non-skid, I would love to see how it is done. Thanks again for all the great videos.
I love your channel! We just bought a 43 Spindrift and need to redo the teak deck. You are awesome! I will be watching all of your videos.
Hi Andy. Still rewatching in August 2021 at your new shop. Love the videos and educational information. Great video thanks 😊
Thank you for a most interesting demonstration on how to replace teak decking bunges. I have many to do before the sailing season starts but have been reluctant to attempt doing without proper guidance. Hopefully, it is as esy as it looks!
Thanks for producing a clear and to the point vid, great job, but you knew that already.
Very tedious work here and dude knocked it out like a champion in 3 hours!!!! Thanks for the upload you’re going to save me loads of time, just don’t tell my wife🤣
This is the best RUclips boat repair guy in the world!
I love watching your shows! Your explanations and techniques are eloquently explained and the touch of humor is great!
Thank you! Really appreciate the kind words :-)
Very helpful thanks. Until I saw this I was considering removing the teak- due to screw leaks and old (expensive) calking.
The best video I have seen hands down !!! 👍🏻
Best video on this subject on RUclips
Excellent demonstration! Thanks
What a great video! I love the all the information and the way it was presented. Subscribed!
Fantastic guidance. Thank you. First time watched and we had to subscribe.
Sei la mia enciclopedia. Grande!
Great information thanks from the Netherlands!
Brilliant, very well made and super informative. thanks !
Thankyou for this video, just what I (my boat needed).
What do you then treat the teak with after it's been sanded? Oil??? Cheers
Excellent videos Andy. I'm learning such a lot. Thanks so much.
You are my Yoda on glassfiber work! keep it up :)
Another great video, thanks Andy!!
YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!! thank you so much for such a great video. We love your videos keep up the great work!!!! -Crew of S/V Agape
Thank you for all of your videos!
great video thank you
these videos are great and so helpful! really well explained as well, great job doing these!
I love your videos, thanks a lot!
what a great job mate..love it
Very helpful thanks for sharing
If you "push" the caulk instead of "pulling" it fills the gap better and you use less product, which leads to less sanding...keep up the good work..
Wow great job. been watching your vid and learning alot. Thanks
Much appreciated! Thank you ;-)
Thanks
Great work! Thank you very much!
Just curious: is there a reason why you sand after removing old caulk, and again to remove new excess caulk? Does that have any benefit over just sanding it once after applying new caulk?
Excelente explicación gracias
Awesome advice you gave us.
What are the products to use on this wood after sanding? Thank you for the video. I appreciate your response
Thanks!!
BTW great resource and channel thanks for all the videos!!
30 years old...that actually looked to be in amazing shape. Obviously the owners did take some care of that. I just pulled the teak off the swim platform of my boat...UGH, what a MESS. It will take me hours to clean that up...and that's no caulk...it's strictly cleaning, sanding, oiling... :(
GREAT work as always!!!
They took very good care of her; indoor storage every Winter, regular maintenance and upkeep; decks were the last item on their list of To-Do's :-) On your platform, have you tried a teak cleaner before? Teak Decking makes a couple really good cleaner / brighteners that are eco-friendly.
I'm using a Cleaner/Brightener...but the people that had the boat before us varnished the tops...so that's in bad shape. Not a hard job to be sure, just time consuming. :(
Love your show and recommend you to everyone in the marina. Sorry this question is so late but just encountering this issue. We have a 1968 Cheoy Lee with high bulwarks. It appears that someone repaired the deck a few decades ago but could not get close enough to the bulwarks to increase the pinching seams so they left them. We replaced caulk (which was completely missing) last summer but it is already coming out. Will the Fien OMT blade allow us to increase the seam size so we can add caulk? Or do you have any other recommendations. Perhaps a router with a really HUGE jig/base? 🤔 Help? 😢
Lots of great tips here. What I thought was a great tool was that chisel. Where did you find that Japanese style chisel ?
Sorry 4 my english ,I am from Italy,when I pass Sikaflex on the deck,comes out Little Holes,Always,how come?
Really great video
Great video.
How long will you have to wait for the caulk to cure before sanding?
I second that!! This is the best channel. Absolutely the best . Thanks for all your great work.
fantastic video. Covered process as well as options to handle different issues that may arise (i.e. fein tool). The second sanding to remove the caulk was 80grit but what about the first? Love this channel and have subscribed.
Nice work as always.
Thank you! Appreciate the kind words :-)
I must say awesome video's! You explain everything in detail and show everything in detail. Very educative.
Agreed
Can you please go over how to replace the bungs on the screws where the bung has come out? great series and thanks for making your channel a full time endeavor!
Usually the reason bungs will pop out is because the deck has been sanded and refinished so many times that the bungs have literally been sanded off. It's wise to check caulking gaps to ensure that theres actually sufficient space left for your caulking, because if not, the deck will fail anyway and it's all become a lost cause. As far as just replacing bungs, you need two tools: a bung cutter and a counter-sink bit. First determine what size the original hole is, and then make plan to drill the hole out one size larger. The main reason for oversizing is to remove old deteriorated wood and to give the bung a new surface to bond against. Remove the screw from the hole. Drill out with your countersink. Cut a new bung with your drill press and pop it out from the wood blank with a flathead screwdriver. for extra precaution, when reinstalling the screw, inject epoxy into the hole first. Drive the screw next and then inject epoxy around the rim of the hole. Next, pound the bung in. Once the epoxy sets, pair the bung off with a chisel. If you have any more curiosity, I have been doing alot of teak deck installation and you can find me on instagram @deyoung.designs
Great video (again). Is that caulk good for anything else, maybe around gelcoat? Must be good stuff to keep water out of teak. Thanks for the education and your love of teaching.
Have you thought about pouring a penetrating epoxy into the seams/missing bungs before installing new caulk? To prevent water from making its way into the screw holes.
Great info....i like
Pleasure to watch
Thanks Jim!
Great work, thumbs up.
Thank you! Much appreciated ;-)
Do you put any finish on the teak afterwards? Is there one you recommend if you do?
The cockpit in my yacht is all teak. And really far gone.... hitting it with my random orbit sander i can "level" out the warping in the timber but all the caulking can be pulled out easily by hand. My plan was to pour uv treated epoxy over it after a fine sand ( to create a hard seal ) thoughts? 😂🤔
how long do you wait before sending? which sika would work for this? tnx
Awesome! Thank You!
Loved your video. About to tackle a sumlia job. Where can we get all the tools and materials. Thx a bunch.
Thanks for the information.What
are your thoughts on oiling a teak deck
How were you able. To get the fine-line tape to stick to the bottoms of the grooves? Every time we have tried it, it would curl off the bottom, even rising up through the caulk (Boat-Life polysulphide). Thanks,
Thanks for a great video!
If one of the planks has partly came loose from its adhesive, is it an idea to pour epoxi through a little hole to rebond it?
Or how is it to be done?
Thanks alot!
Hi Andy- In this video I see that you do an initial sanding when all the caulk is removed, and then sand again once the new caulk is spread out. Is there a reason for the initial sanding? I'm just asking bc I'm cautious to preserve as much of the remaining teak material that I have, and don't want to sand twice unless needed. Thx!
Quick question. Why sand the top of the deck before and after caulking? Couldn’t you just sand once after the caulk dries?
what type of decking compound would you use on a white pine deck? I have a '74 Concordia Schooner and am redoing the deck seams...I have heard the old hot tar method or a two part polysulfide ...or sikiflex and or boatlife...i dont want to have to do this again so whatever is the most durable and sealing
Great video!
Thank Guys!! Much appreciated ;-)
How do you deal with teakdecks that were glued on to the fiberdeck below? I have an older Bavaria sailboat where the entire teakdeck seem to have been glued on to the original fiberdeck in large sections. My teakdeck consist of a thin teaklayer on top with plywood underneath - all in all - about 5 mm thick (not much, I know).
Now the deck has started bending and does no longer bind to the fiberdeck. Do you have any experience by dealing with that kind of teakdeck -and how to repair it (getting the teakdeck to bind again?)
Thanks for the video! Quick question...so is it enough to sand and replace the seams, without treating the teak with all sorts of two-step chemicals? I'd like to keep my teak as natural as possible, and not have to apply things on a yearly basis, so you tutorial seems perfect. Just wanted to make sure before I get down to it, that it's okay to leave it as is after sanding?
Question.After the final sanding stage with 80 grit, can you go straight to teak oil and sealer, or teak cleaner, brightener then oil and sealant?
don't sand, it will hurt your decks, just scrub them with soda ash, this will bring back the nice brown color of the teak, rinse them , sprinkle soda ash, scrub, rinse again, let dry and then apply teak oil like semco
I'm doing the helm deck is there any stain that should be done for protection or just salt water
Great!
BoatworksToday I’m using the sis-440 to caulk my deck. What kind of bedding compounds/ marine sealant adhesive can I use in conjunction with that will bond to this product? Thanks, matt
I noticed you sanded the deck first and then applied the calk and resanded. Why not just calk then then sand the calk the old wood in one step? Seems like you would save more of the teak with only 1 sanding?
Great Video, how did you repair the screw heads?
Wish you were in Los Angeles... I’d hire you to patch up my 73 chris craft teak deck... it’s been at least 30 years since it’s had any attention...
Nice vid. The though of refinishing a teak deck on something like a Hans Christian 38T....eek.
Lots of work :-O !! But a nice boat to be working on ;-)
thanks great tip
hi, i have heard that sikaflex isnt the best anymore, the quality has changed.. it leaves you with black colour on the skin 1 month after putting it on.. can you tell about your experiences..? thanks -- stefan
Thanks!
I have heard of people using glazing putty Dap 33 and tinting it. Would you recommend that practice.
Great video! I was wondering, can this caulking be used with polyurethane for a hardwood floor? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but i love the look of that and would like to incorporate it into my Livingroom floor. Thanks!
how do you determine if the teak needs replacing or can be repaired?
Do you put any kind of oil or anything on the wood after sanding it?
Bro, ure an amazing person! 🫶
I try :-) Thank you!
Awesome vid Andy! now to try and tackle my 36ft swedish yacht. What tool would you use to make the grooves deeper? Some people have suggested a router but I'm not so sure..
Great video but only thing your forgetting to advise in this process witch is very important is to clean the seams with acetone before caulking. It is a must! It cleans the excess dust and oils in the teak. If you skip this step the caulk will fail.
Great video! Do you seal the teak deck before or after adding the fill? What product?
No staining the teak? Wouldn't staining be a good thing to do?
Really clear - thank you! Would you do anything differently with an Iroko deck?
Great video. Very informative. One question... How thick should the teak be to even he consider refinishing it? There is about 8-10 cm of teak remaining on the decks of my boat. Many bungs have been lost to time and tides.
I think you mean millimeters which in that case there is plenty of meat left on your teak. If you have lots of teak bungs missing, then sometimes the best way to go is to remove all of them along with the screws (one at a time) and re-drill each screw hole one size larger, and slightly deeper. The new screws should be slightly shorter, so the net depth is the same and the screw is well below deck surface so the bung can easily cover it. This is a bit more time-consuming and tedious but I think the net result is superior.
nice work
Thank you!!