3 different types of bluing and prep. Website=heavymetalgunsoutdoorsllc.my-f... Facebook= / heavy-metal-gunsoutdoo... Patreon= / heavymetalgunsoutdoorsllc
I don't know much about blueing so this was very interesting to watch. I like the lighter almost worn looking finish. Anyone getting ready to blue could benefit from watching!! Thank You Sir!!😁
Great video buddy. Very informative. You make great videos. Thank you for taking time out of your busy day to share a few tips with us buddy GOD BLESS.
Thanks Paul I need to try this on my older guns. I get them out sometimes there is a little rust on them I take 0000 steal wool and a little gun oil seems to work
Nice video. That stuff works much better than I thought!!! You see some real messes out there but I guess it’s all in the prep work. I might have to get brave and try refreshing some of my rusty old guns. If only I was brave enough to go past a field strip on my 1911s and didn’t have nightmares about revolver internals 😂😂😂. No gunsmiths left around here if I get stuck. We fly solo.
Eastwood has a blackening kit that also does a good job. It includes a finishing liquid that aids in rust prevention. It too will give you different finishes with different prep work. Hard to beat the old bluing finishes on old Smith & Wesson and Colt guns. Cool video!
I may have to retract my statement. I just went to the Eastwood site to get you a part # and could not find the same product. Will do some more research, I have some left and was thinking about getting another kit. If they have discontinued it would be a bummer.
@@HeavyMetalGuns Looks like Eastwood has replaced The kit i have with a kit that delivers a black oxide finish like the under hood components you find on a car. From the description they give it is more like a paint. I have found something like the kit I have, but still need to look into it further. To be continued!
Nice demonstration on the different blueing Paul, now I’m not sure which one I’m going to do with my old 20 gauge. Which one has the best deep blue and purple color if you buffed them up, it’s hard to tell in the video . I have time to work with/in putting on the blueing, I really want good deep blueing and purples. Thanks Paul
Im thinkin id use the permablue with the acid. i have a sandblaster but only a small one. But i looked the overall look of that last section there but the first blueing. I have an old iver-johnson 12 gauge double barrel but its about totally worn of blueing and i kinda like the way it looks. May have to get a cheap gun and try it out. Thanks Paul yours are the best.
I just bought a bottle of that super blue last night. I've always used perma blue, but wallyworld didn't have any. It says its supposed to be double strenght for polished and hardened metals, but going by what you just did, it don't look like it's double strength to me, seems like it should have covered better and been a lot darker....
Do you know any way to recreate the purple plum-ish color that was present on some of the older Rugers? I know it wasn’t done on purpose, but I love how it looks. I purchased an old 1915 Stevens 35 offhand that has the plum color on the cast frame, but I have to remove some corrosion off. After I’d love to reblue it the same plum color. What would I have to do for that? Is the cast just likely to come out that way?
There is another way I had seen last year and thought wow I need to try that some day and might do it to one of my Arisaka rifles They call it heat/oil bluing and it sure looks nice i have used all of those and think the best one was super blue but brownells did good also I would polish the metal all the way to 1500 grit sandpaper until it looked like a mirror and the blueing looked just like a factory job in that way when I got done i still want to try that heat oil method of bluing as that stuff looks really neat
@@HeavyMetalGuns I forgot about it until your video and then I remember I was going to do that last year and forgot all about it LOL Want to take down that one I have the scope on as it will be easier to do than the original mil stock one
Oh I forgot about that old winchester model 94 LOL I was getting so good at it I decided I would do my winchester 30-30 So I take it all apart and do it just like I did the others and all of a sudden none of those bluings would work that winchester metal and I was like OHHHHHHHHH NOOOOOOOOO!!! LOL If I remember winchester was way different and in the end I did find a brown bluing that did work on winchester and it looked OK but the rifle was originally dark blue bluing Later on I sold that rifle to a gunsmith and he told me there is a different formula to make bluing for the winchester lever action rifles of which he did but I never found out which bluing he was talking about and think he made all of his bluing from a home made mix of salts and other chemicals
@@HeavyMetalGuns I use a big permanent black felt marker on stubborn touch ups like holster wear on tha old S&W police specials. Theys a diffrence in markers ,tha one I use is a no name made in china one that works best. I guard it with my life frum my wife HaHa
@@HeavyMetalGuns Oh dogs I just remembered it would not take the brown either until I polished it and heated it with a torch and then wiped it on real fast while the metal was still hot The bad part about the winchester metal was two fold as I had to polish oil polish and oil then clean real fast with degreaser heat real fast then apply the browning What was happening was when I polished it to bright again it would start looking like rust almost instantly unless I polished and put oil leaving oil on like a wet sanding job Soon as that oil was degrease had to work real fast like in one minute heat and put thaat browning on real fast or here came the rust again so I was heating it some with oil on it then degreasing real fast heating again then slapping on the brown as fast as I could I do not know much about metals but there was something definitely different with the metal on them winchester 94s than any other rifle is all I saw I'm thinking if I remember straight that gunsmith I knew was saying those receivers were case hardened metal so that was the reason they were so hard to blue
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Going to school for firearm finishes will definitely share this video with the class. Great examples.
Thanks 👍
Good to know the differences in bluing chemicals! Thanks Paul!
Thanks Pat!!
Thanks excellent video
Cool I always blue the bolt of each sks I buy. But I always heat it up in the oven . My wife is like "another gun in the oven?"
Cooking gun parts!! Thanks Ralph!!
I don't know much about blueing so this was very interesting to watch. I like the lighter almost worn looking finish. Anyone getting ready to blue could benefit from watching!! Thank You Sir!!😁
Thanks Kevin!!
This was a very informative video.
Thanks Truth!!
Love the vid Paul!!! Im really enjoying these how to do from you!! You sure are helping me with a project I’m doing now..... thank u
Thanks E-roc!!
Hmmm turned out to be an advertisement for sand blasters :)
Lol,we do not sell them!! Thanks Ralph!!
Thanks for the class in bluing Paul, I learned a lot.
Thanks Tom!!
Thanks Paul I have an old western field 20 ga that needs to be re-blued. Your video will help me in deciding what to use.
Thanks Randy!!
Nice informative video. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, as always.
Thanks Bob!!
Excellent information ! Excellent video !
5⭐
Thanks Jerry!!
Thanks Paul this will help me on my next project
Glad to help,thanks Matt!!
Great video buddy. Very informative. You make great videos. Thank you for taking time out of your busy day to share a few tips with us buddy GOD BLESS.
Thanks Randle and God Bless!!
I agree with you buddy.
Nice video!
Thanks Jerry!!
Thanks Paul I need to try this on my older guns. I get them out sometimes there is a little rust on them I take 0000 steal wool and a little gun oil seems to work
That method works great!! Thanks Doug!!
Interesting Video 👍🏻
Thanks Israel!!
Nice video. That stuff works much better than I thought!!! You see some real messes out there but I guess it’s all in the prep work. I might have to get brave and try refreshing some of my rusty old guns. If only I was brave enough to go past a field strip on my 1911s and didn’t have nightmares about revolver internals 😂😂😂. No gunsmiths left around here if I get stuck. We fly solo.
Thanks!! Just go slow and steady,you can do it.
Eastwood has a blackening kit that also does a good job. It includes a finishing liquid that aids in rust prevention. It too will give you different finishes with different prep work. Hard to beat the old bluing finishes on old Smith & Wesson and Colt guns. Cool video!
Thanks George,i want to try that Eastwood!!
I may have to retract my statement. I just went to the Eastwood site to get you a part # and could not find the same product. Will do some more research, I have some left and was thinking about getting another kit. If they have discontinued it would be a bummer.
Thanks,keep em in the loop please!!
@@HeavyMetalGuns Looks like Eastwood has replaced The kit i have with a kit that delivers a black oxide finish like the under hood components you find on a car. From the description they give it is more like a paint. I have found something like the kit I have, but still need to look into it further. To be continued!
@@28highboy Thanks for the update!!
Nice demonstration on the different blueing Paul, now I’m not sure which one I’m going to do with my old 20 gauge. Which one has the best deep blue and purple color if you buffed them up, it’s hard to tell in the video . I have time to work with/in putting on the blueing, I really want good deep blueing and purples. Thanks Paul
Thanks Leonard!! I suggest to use the Super Blue on a highly polished surface with a few coats of OxphoBlue on the last.
That’s something how a clear liquid can turn metal blue.
Im thinkin id use the permablue with the acid. i have a sandblaster but only a small one. But i looked the overall look of that last section there but the first blueing. I have an old iver-johnson 12 gauge double barrel but its about totally worn of blueing and i kinda like the way it looks. May have to get a cheap gun and try it out. Thanks Paul yours are the best.
Thanks Tom!! I will do more in the future!!
I just bought a bottle of that super blue last night. I've always used perma blue, but wallyworld didn't have any. It says its supposed to be double strenght for polished and hardened metals, but going by what you just did, it don't look like it's double strength to me, seems like it should have covered better and been a lot darker....
You are right,it does not cover as well as the Perma Blue. Thanks Sgt!!
Do you know any way to recreate the purple plum-ish color that was present on some of the older Rugers? I know it wasn’t done on purpose, but I love how it looks.
I purchased an old 1915 Stevens 35 offhand that has the plum color on the cast frame, but I have to remove some corrosion off. After I’d love to reblue it the same plum color.
What would I have to do for that? Is the cast just likely to come out that way?
Different metals react to the process. Try different types of blue and see what happens.
There is another way I had seen last year and thought wow I need to try that some day and might do it to one of my Arisaka rifles
They call it heat/oil bluing and it sure looks nice
i have used all of those and think the best one was super blue but brownells did good also
I would polish the metal all the way to 1500 grit sandpaper until it looked like a mirror and the blueing looked just like a factory job in that way when I got done
i still want to try that heat oil method of bluing as that stuff looks really neat
Hey Ray!! I have done the hot oil blue method,it is cool!! I will do some in the future.
@@HeavyMetalGuns I forgot about it until your video and then I remember I was going to do that last year and forgot all about it LOL
Want to take down that one I have the scope on as it will be easier to do than the original mil stock one
Thanks 🍺🍺😉👍
Any time!
Do you get into threading barrels at all? Good stuff.
Thanks Michael!! I want to thread in the future.
Good comparison. Can really see the difference. What is that that keeps cycling on and off, heater?
Thanks Rumple!! That is the heater blower from my waste oil heater,sorry for the background noise.
+Heavy Metal Guns & Outdoors LLC Noise ain't bad. Just wondering what it was.
Hey, camo with just bluing !
Thanks John!!
What if I only want to get rid of the rust and stabilize what I have left?
Then,just take some 0000 steel wool with gun oil and polish the rust out.
Hey Paul
Hey Randle!!
Oh I forgot about that old winchester model 94 LOL
I was getting so good at it I decided I would do my winchester 30-30
So I take it all apart and do it just like I did the others and all of a sudden none of those bluings would work that winchester metal and I was like OHHHHHHHHH NOOOOOOOOO!!! LOL
If I remember winchester was way different and in the end I did find a brown bluing that did work on winchester and it looked OK but the rifle was originally dark blue bluing
Later on I sold that rifle to a gunsmith and he told me there is a different formula to make bluing for the winchester lever action rifles of which he did but I never found out which bluing he was talking about and think he made all of his bluing from a home made mix of salts and other chemicals
I have run across some gun metals that were hard to blue.Tried different methods and blues,but some just would not cooperate.
@@HeavyMetalGuns I use a big permanent black felt marker on stubborn touch ups like holster wear on tha old S&W police specials. Theys a diffrence in markers ,tha one I use is a no name made in china one that works best. I guard it with my life frum my wife HaHa
@@joebiker8466 Thanks!! I have done that for a quick touch up!!
@@HeavyMetalGuns Oh dogs I just remembered it would not take the brown either until I polished it and heated it with a torch and then wiped it on real fast while the metal was still hot
The bad part about the winchester metal was two fold as I had to polish oil polish and oil then clean real fast with degreaser heat real fast then apply the browning
What was happening was when I polished it to bright again it would start looking like rust almost instantly unless I polished and put oil leaving oil on like a wet sanding job
Soon as that oil was degrease had to work real fast like in one minute heat and put thaat browning on real fast or here came the rust again so I was heating it some with oil on it then degreasing real fast heating again then slapping on the brown as fast as I could
I do not know much about metals but there was something definitely different with the metal on them winchester 94s than any other rifle is all I saw
I'm thinking if I remember straight that gunsmith I knew was saying those receivers were case hardened metal so that was the reason they were so hard to blue
Good info,thanks!!