Nice one will, good info. Smack on with the palm prints on the prop as we would often simply move props or check by pulling them round on any engine. Normally you grab near the middle to end, it's easier. Then you pass through dust....shit state😬😂
Wheels = results well worth it. Drop tanks, metal types could/were used multiple times, (combat air-to-air involved drop for better airframe performance (and survivability). The paper 110 gallon types (mainly ETO) were/had a 24 hour usage limitation after filling. Aircraft fuel physically soaked/softened the “paper” (cellulose?) structure portions of these type drop tanks, hence the 24 hr use after filling type procedures/limitations. Quest - Did you add the “mottling effect” upon the rear surfaces of the propeller blades as well? (I would imaging that either handling or weathering some “mottling” would also appear on the rear portion of the blades. Walking the prop (two full rotations) was not done for “oiling” purposes, Walking the prop was done manually to check for “hydrauicing” of the engine (sudden stoppage of crankshaft rotation due to the piston(s) in the lower cylinders striking a pool of oil/fuel & fuel incompressible) in the lower cylinders on their compression stroke (intake/exhaust vale’s closed). This stoppage could/did result in engine damage (new connecting rod, piston pin, or, maybe even crankshaft anybody). As such the ground crew rotated the engine via the propeller manually (very slow speed/inertia) for two revolutions of the crankshaft (count the number of the blades and multiply by two, thus for three bladed prop type engines, do six blades through bottom of rotation) insure that the engine’s pistons met no resistance/stoppage.
Hey Will, sort of a beginner's question. Doing oil rending/weathering on acrylics vs laquer vs enamel. Is all of it ok? Do I need GX113 on any of those first? Apologies if I missed this.
Hu I've seen your comment with no reply so hope your fine with me replying!? Just Seal your work in with a Clear coat first thay way your safe to play around with the weathering without going through your base coat if your wiping off bits refining with your odorless thinners or white spirits
@@Emtbtoday Thanks. Finally figured that out but now I have a follow up. Working on a model which I painted with gloss paint (lacquer). I don't really want to put gloss clear coat over the gloss. So, in this case, I am applying some weathering oils) directly to the paint. How dangerous?
Was it common for drop tanks to be brought back empty or otherwise re-used? I wouldn't think they'd show much staining and wear around the gas cap if they were mostly for one-way trips.
Fantastic job as usual. I’m looking to buy some of the MRP chrome paint and 2K clear. Can’t seem to locate any. Are they not making that anymore? I watched your videos on the chrome showdown it was fantastic. Please advise when you can thanks looking for a source to buy MRP. Jim
I think its just how pure it is. Thinner is a technical produkt, the spirit is so clean, you can wasch wounds with it. In germany we call it "Wundbenzin". Less odor = more pure.
I think the filth on props is from the ground crew physically turning the prop. It looks like filthy dirty hands all over the thing. But then I may be talking out my butt, because I really have no clue. I'm just going by old film of seeing ground crew turning props.
Phenomenal work as always Will! I'd love to see your take on different kind of exhaust stains one of these days....definitely something that can make or break a model, no? I'd definitely enjoy you tackle the wear and tear of the F-100 Super Sabre tails, like these two....I'd definitely sponsor you a kit to see you do it! www.f-100.org/pages/f-100f_63813-1.shtml www.f-100.org/pages/f-100f_63813-1.shtml Much love and respect....
Dude...you keep it real when you curse while building. Very informative and great insight to your thoughts and reasoning
Glad you showed dry brushing. My hobby shop guy suggested it. I thought huh?
Love your sign too.
FANTASTIC!!!!! Thanks Will 🙏🏼
Thanks Will, these videos are great tutorials!
These are fantastic, literally what I would have asked for if a genie gave me one wish for YT vids!
Looks good! Thanks Will.
Nice one will, good info. Smack on with the palm prints on the prop as we would often simply move props or check by pulling them round on any engine. Normally you grab near the middle to end, it's easier. Then you pass through dust....shit state😬😂
Wheels = results well worth it.
Drop tanks, metal types could/were used multiple times, (combat air-to-air involved drop for better airframe performance (and survivability).
The paper 110 gallon types (mainly ETO) were/had a 24 hour usage limitation after filling. Aircraft fuel physically soaked/softened the “paper” (cellulose?) structure portions of these type drop tanks, hence the 24 hr use after filling type procedures/limitations.
Quest - Did you add the “mottling effect” upon the rear surfaces of the propeller blades as well? (I would imaging that either handling or weathering some “mottling” would also appear on the rear portion of the blades.
Walking the prop (two full rotations) was not done for “oiling” purposes, Walking the prop was done manually to check for “hydrauicing” of the engine (sudden stoppage of crankshaft rotation due to the piston(s) in the lower cylinders striking a pool of oil/fuel & fuel incompressible) in the lower cylinders on their compression stroke (intake/exhaust vale’s closed). This stoppage could/did result in engine damage (new connecting rod, piston pin, or, maybe even crankshaft anybody).
As such the ground crew rotated the engine via the propeller manually (very slow speed/inertia) for two revolutions of the crankshaft (count the number of the blades and multiply by two, thus for three bladed prop type engines, do six blades through bottom of rotation) insure that the engine’s pistons met no resistance/stoppage.
Ditto with pulling through although we just pulled through 1 rev per cylinder. Had to laugh at the guys next door with a team to do the B17😂
Hey Will, sort of a beginner's question. Doing oil rending/weathering on acrylics vs laquer vs enamel. Is all of it ok? Do I need GX113 on any of those first? Apologies if I missed this.
Hu I've seen your comment with no reply so hope your fine with me replying!? Just Seal your work in with a Clear coat first thay way your safe to play around with the weathering without going through your base coat if your wiping off bits refining with your odorless thinners or white spirits
@@Emtbtoday Thanks. Finally figured that out but now I have a follow up. Working on a model which I painted with gloss paint (lacquer). I don't really want to put gloss clear coat over the gloss. So, in this case, I am applying some weathering oils) directly to the paint. How dangerous?
Was it common for drop tanks to be brought back empty or otherwise re-used? I wouldn't think they'd show much staining and wear around the gas cap if they were mostly for one-way trips.
I think the aluminium made one were dropped only in some combat situation involving tango fighters, and that was not that common
Fantastic job as usual. I’m looking to buy some of the MRP chrome paint and 2K clear. Can’t seem to locate any. Are they not making that anymore? I watched your videos on the chrome showdown it was fantastic. Please advise when you can thanks looking for a source to buy MRP. Jim
Beautiful work, but one thing bothers me. Are expendables like drop tanks ever going to be as heavily weathered as the remainder of the aircraft?
Absolutely I've seen plenty that look like they have been heavily used and abused. They aren't a throw away part, no pun intended.
@@wasrio1403 is correct. they didn't always get expended, especially in a supply-poor theater like cbi.
Rivet counter tee shirt - who sells it?
it's actually one i made. =)
Would it be possible to upload the video with subtitles? The previous one had them and it is easier for me. Thanks in advance.
Where's the bare metal project?
What is the difference between thinner and mineral spirits? Thank you for the good work.
I think its just how pure it is. Thinner is a technical produkt, the spirit is so clean, you can wasch wounds with it. In germany we call it "Wundbenzin". Less odor = more pure.
I think the filth on props is from the ground crew physically turning the prop. It looks like filthy dirty hands all over the thing. But then I may be talking out my butt, because I really have no clue. I'm just going by old film of seeing ground crew turning props.
Just a comment for the algorithm
Phenomenal work as always Will!
I'd love to see your take on different kind of exhaust stains one of these days....definitely something that can make or break a model, no?
I'd definitely enjoy you tackle the wear and tear of the F-100 Super Sabre tails, like these two....I'd definitely sponsor you a kit to see you do it!
www.f-100.org/pages/f-100f_63813-1.shtml
www.f-100.org/pages/f-100f_63813-1.shtml
Much love and respect....