You can tighten and apply proper torque to the crankshaft bolt by holding the large washer. Can be held with large channel locks or even a pipe wrench. Some people have made their own tool to hold it. Any tool marks left on the washer have no negative effect. Comet recommends 20 ft/lbs of torque on the bolt. This is also the industry standard for a bolt of that size and threads. I like how you have your cover cut. May help some with cooling. The driver gets pretty hot.
I just installed one the same way. I sacrificed the 40 pitch sprocket and made a 5.5mm spacer for the driven pulley and made a 4mm spacer for the driver pulley. I then halved the thickness of the big nyloc nut. Didn’t have to do any grinding. I did however need to run a counter sunk bolt in the bottom rear engine mount position so the chain didn’t foul
Excellent video sir! Will definitely help when I install one on a 620 predator in my Cushman scooter. I'll have to fabricate a jackshaft but it shouldn't be too much trouble.
I was thinking instal a jack shaft in front of the motor, move the sprocket to center. Your way is lighter, faster and cheaper, my way the big benefit would be more gearing options. Depends on needs I guess. Like your idea
Yeah I miss spoke at the beginning of the explanation of the stiffer spring but when discussing the spring setting I stated that it determined rate that the ratios changed
To hold the crankshaft from turning when torquing the bolt, you have to remove the spark plug and get a thick string or rope and stuff it in the sparkplug hole.When the cilyder is about full ,turn the crank bolt and the crank shaft will not turn, the rope in the cylinder wont compress .
Nah just use an i impact and give it 3 uga dugas. That rope could bend a valve. If u really want to torque the crap out of it pop the recoil off and put a socket and breaker bar on the flywheel side.
Engage the pull start by pulling on it then tighten the pully onto the crankshaft. You'll still need an impact to remove it unless you screw a bolt into the spark plug hole then the motor won't turn either way.
@@jwsbackyard6413 Thank you!!!!. I haven't seen this in any videos and I've looked at alot of them. I had a feeling that it was possible but wasn't sure. I will research it and get er done.👍👍👍
Nice video Thanks for sharing! You clearly have a good understanding of mechanics and the fabrication/fitment work that often comes into play during a custom build. I enjoyed watching. I’m building a cart of my own and am using a 40 series converter on an 18 hp vanguard twin. It’s not complete yet but close. I keep going back and forth on my torque converter clutch alignment. Many videos I have watched documenting the torque converter install show the engine side of the clutches in line with each other, however, upon rpm the belt is completely offset and out of line. I can’t help but think that will wear the belt out quicker. Should I be shimming the drive clutch out further than the driven to create a happier medium between idle and full throttle? Any thoughts on that?
Main thing to do is make sure the flat plates are even. Mean the flat plate closest to the engine on the crank and the flat plate of the driven pulley closest to the engine on the jackshaft. Those are the two that matter. The belt should stay aligned as long as those plates are aligned. I usually have to add an extra washer on the crank to pull the flat plate on the crank out enough to line up with the driven pulley.
@@jwsbackyard6413 thanks for the response Josh. I do understand what you mean about the flat side or interior side of the pulleys, perhaps it doesn’t make a difference but a 40 series TC doesn’t have a flat side like an asymmetrical 30 series. The 40 is beveled on both sides. What puzzles me is that when installed as most videos show, rpm engagement causes the belt to move toward the engine on the drive pulley while the driven pulley moves the belt farther away from the engine creating the misaligned belt at rpm. Someone recommended to install the drive pulley the other way so the belt moves outward with both pulleys instead of opposing movement of the belt at full engagement Have you ever tested that out? Looks like your setup is working just fine so probably no need to change a good thing 🙂
From looking at the schematic you linked the 40 series seems to be a little different than the 30 series setup. Without seeing how you e got yours the best thing to do is try to make it look exactly like the picture and see if it makes a difference. The 40 series looks like it flips the driven pulley the opposite way than a 30 series.
It actually allows you to have the benefit of lots of torque for take off and a lower Hera ratio for speed. So you get the best of both worlds. With a standard clutch you have a fixed gear ratio so you have to choose whether you want take off but no top end speed or if you want top end speed but no take off where the kart can barely get going. The only kart I use I have that I’m still using a standard clutch on is my nitrous go kart because it only has one purpose which is going as fast as possible in a straight line, it takes full throttle just to get it moving and cuts way down on its functionality.
Top speed is probably around 30ish mph. Engine is a predator 212 with intake, exhaust, 32 jet, head port and eBay 30 series torque converter. Gearing is going to be the main factor affecting top speed though. This one is geared for torque rather than top speed. You can increase speed by increasing the size of the sprocket on the crank or decreasing the size of the axle sprocket but this will sacrifice some torque/ acceleration. You can also get some extra speed by increasing engine rpm.
Hey mine didn’t end up coming with that brass bushing yours has is there anything specific about it that I’d need to buy it or can I just make one from scratch?
You can make one if you have the correct size tubing, just make sure it isn’t to thick so that the driver can slide over it when it expands without catching. I actually have a video where those rings are prone to sticking and causing the driver to not be able to retract which locks the wheel up on decel.
A cvt doesn’t use a traditional style clutch. The drive pulley does have weights in it like a clutch but it puts pressure on the belt to pinch it between the pulley and backing plate.
Yeah it usually loosens up some on its own after the first drive but then I loosen the mounting bolts and let the engine move where it wants for some slack.
It’s a 1 inch axle and I usually get them off of eBay. Just have to make sure it’s a solid axle and not hollow. Also have to make sure it’s not tapered down at the end.
I’m using 35 chain from Tractor Supply. Idk the link count. I just take the roll of chain and put it around the sprockets to measure the length I need then cut the chain. Just make sure you account for the master link in the length
I don’t have any specific numbers but with a torque converter you’re going to have way more torque, on this kart it’s enough to do wheelies but there is some reduction in top speed. With a regular clutch you’ll struggle to get torque and it will take off very slow but will have a lot of top end speed.
I will have to measure when I get home. I usually just go on Amazon or eBay and search 30 series torque converter belts and buy whatever. The measurement on many of them are 27 1/32 inches
I have a question, I put my 40 series tourque converter from gps on my 440 cc engine and go-kart, and I keep blowing out the bearing in the thing, do you know why that would happen
Yeah that’s another possibility. Over tightening the nut would pull pressure on the side of the bearing. I’d use a locknut and tighten with the belt off and make sure the pulley spins without resistance after tightening the nut. If you feel resistance on the pulley you need to back the nut off some.
You can tighten and apply proper torque to the crankshaft bolt by holding the large washer. Can be held with large channel locks or even a pipe wrench. Some people have made their own tool to hold it. Any tool marks left on the washer have no negative effect. Comet recommends 20 ft/lbs of torque on the bolt. This is also the industry standard for a bolt of that size and threads.
I like how you have your cover cut. May help some with cooling. The driver gets pretty hot.
i mounted one vertically and it worked pretty well. no real issues.
I just did the same thing to my 99 phantom kart
This, is the video I needed. Saved a buncha frustration
I just installed one the same way. I sacrificed the 40 pitch sprocket and made a 5.5mm spacer for the driven pulley and made a 4mm spacer for the driver pulley. I then halved the thickness of the big nyloc nut. Didn’t have to do any grinding. I did however need to run a counter sunk bolt in the bottom rear engine mount position so the chain didn’t foul
That’s a pretty good idea. I’ll keep that in mind next time I have to do it
Excellent video sir! Will definitely help when I install one on a 620 predator in my Cushman scooter. I'll have to fabricate a jackshaft but it shouldn't be too much trouble.
Good idea to lube the inside of the bushing.
Dude, well explained...your having fun man love it!
I had to mount mine the same way but instead of grinding those fins off, I got a longer keyed 5/8 shaft and spaced the sprocket away from the fins.
I was thinking instal a jack shaft in front of the motor, move the sprocket to center. Your way is lighter, faster and cheaper, my way the big benefit would be more gearing options. Depends on needs I guess. Like your idea
I have a honda 340 GX engine and I got a torque converter for it and had to put it inverted all because the oil stick was in the way.
Did you had any problems?
You use a torque wrench and a strap wrench to hold the converter from spinning
Fact
The old self clearance trick 😂😂😂
primary weights determine engine engagement RPM the secondary spring and holes only change the rate that the cvt changes ratio/up shifts
Yeah I miss spoke at the beginning of the explanation of the stiffer spring but when discussing the spring setting I stated that it determined rate that the ratios changed
U must have ground some metal off the backing plate?
Yeah it requires grinding some of the fins off. I actually have an updated video on all of it I posted about a month ago
Всё чётко👍. Привет из северного края.
To hold the crankshaft from turning when torquing the bolt, you have to remove the spark plug and get a thick string or rope and stuff it in the sparkplug hole.When the cilyder is about full ,turn the crank bolt and the crank shaft will not turn, the rope in the cylinder wont compress .
Nah just use an i impact and give it 3 uga dugas. That rope could bend a valve. If u really want to torque the crap out of it pop the recoil off and put a socket and breaker bar on the flywheel side.
Gotta love the Oklahoma dirt
Engage the pull start by pulling on it then tighten the pully onto the crankshaft. You'll still need an impact to remove it unless you screw a bolt into the spark plug hole then the motor won't turn either way.
Wish me luck I have a 420 cc predator but I got this set up laying around new ... I'm gonna try it then swap to 40 if it won't work
The 40 and 30 are rate for around the same hp which has always confused me
I have one on a golf cart and it wants to jerk the jack shaft out of it. I want to set the T C up to engage at a much lower rpm. Any suggestions.
You can change the springs in driver to change engagement speed.
@@jwsbackyard6413 Thank you!!!!. I haven't seen this in any videos and I've looked at alot of them. I had a feeling that it was possible but wasn't sure. I will research it and get er done.👍👍👍
Nice video Thanks for sharing!
You clearly have a good understanding of mechanics and the fabrication/fitment work that often comes into play during a custom build. I enjoyed watching.
I’m building a cart of my own and am using a 40 series converter on an 18 hp vanguard twin. It’s not complete yet but close. I keep going back and forth on my torque converter clutch alignment. Many videos I have watched documenting the torque converter install show the engine side of the clutches in line with each other, however, upon rpm the belt is completely offset and out of line. I can’t help but think that will wear the belt out quicker. Should I be shimming the drive clutch out further than the driven to create a happier medium between idle and full throttle?
Any thoughts on that?
Main thing to do is make sure the flat plates are even. Mean the flat plate closest to the engine on the crank and the flat plate of the driven pulley closest to the engine on the jackshaft. Those are the two that matter. The belt should stay aligned as long as those plates are aligned. I usually have to add an extra washer on the crank to pull the flat plate on the crank out enough to line up with the driven pulley.
@@jwsbackyard6413 thanks for the response Josh. I do understand what you mean about the flat side or interior side of the pulleys, perhaps it doesn’t make a difference but a 40 series TC doesn’t have a flat side like an asymmetrical 30 series. The 40 is beveled on both sides.
What puzzles me is that when installed as most videos show, rpm engagement causes the belt to move toward the engine on the drive pulley while the driven pulley moves the belt farther away from the engine creating the misaligned belt at rpm.
Someone recommended to install the drive pulley the other way so the belt moves outward with both pulleys instead of opposing movement of the belt at full engagement
Have you ever tested that out?
Looks like your setup is working just fine so probably no need to change a good thing 🙂
From looking at the schematic you linked the 40 series seems to be a little different than the 30 series setup. Without seeing how you e got yours the best thing to do is try to make it look exactly like the picture and see if it makes a difference. The 40 series looks like it flips the driven pulley the opposite way than a 30 series.
@@jwsbackyard6413 I agree
Thanks for all your advice and keep up the great vids!
If my driven gear was to the left of the driven pully, would the proper direction still be maintained ? Thank you
Yes it would be
what exhaust are you rubbing with the torque converter upside down if you don't mind me asking
I can remember what brand it is but it’s a j pipe.
Nice!! Thank you for the info!
Cool but I personally would raise that engine more.
Have you had any problems with the way you mounted it on the yellow kart? I think i have to do that with mine.
No no problems. Just have to roll the lip of the gas tank, and trim the fins on the head down a tad.
I believe that once you get going the torque converter is pretty useless.
It actually allows you to have the benefit of lots of torque for take off and a lower Hera ratio for speed. So you get the best of both worlds. With a standard clutch you have a fixed gear ratio so you have to choose whether you want take off but no top end speed or if you want top end speed but no take off where the kart can barely get going. The only kart I use I have that I’m still using a standard clutch on is my nitrous go kart because it only has one purpose which is going as fast as possible in a straight line, it takes full throttle just to get it moving and cuts way down on its functionality.
Hello I have a pretty similar build, whats the top speed on your kart?
Have you done any modifications to the motor?
Top speed is probably around 30ish mph. Engine is a predator 212 with intake, exhaust, 32 jet, head port and eBay 30 series torque converter. Gearing is going to be the main factor affecting top speed though. This one is geared for torque rather than top speed. You can increase speed by increasing the size of the sprocket on the crank or decreasing the size of the axle sprocket but this will sacrifice some torque/ acceleration. You can also get some extra speed by increasing engine rpm.
@@jwsbackyard6413 that's what I thought I have the same rear sprocket and for me 30mph is perfect I rather torque than top speed.
Thanks
Hey mine didn’t end up coming with that brass bushing yours has is there anything specific about it that I’d need to buy it or can I just make one from scratch?
You can make one if you have the correct size tubing, just make sure it isn’t to thick so that the driver can slide over it when it expands without catching. I actually have a video where those rings are prone to sticking and causing the driver to not be able to retract which locks the wheel up on decel.
Stupid question, is the clutch part of the cvt set up?
A cvt doesn’t use a traditional style clutch. The drive pulley does have weights in it like a clutch but it puts pressure on the belt to pinch it between the pulley and backing plate.
Is that an old Dukes of Hazzard go cart frame?
I have no idea to be honest
Your crankshaft looked bent to me
Did you ever put some slack in the chain?
Yeah it usually loosens up some on its own after the first drive but then I loosen the mounting bolts and let the engine move where it wants for some slack.
What size are those tires ? I would love to have those on my drift trike
They are a 12x9-6
what size axle and hub are you using to run those wheels ?
It’s a 1 inch axle and just the cheap aluminum three stud hubs you can get on eBay or Amazon.
I have a manco red fox go kart can I put a touqor converter in my kart
You can put a torque converter on any kart. You may just have to move the engine around to get proper chain alignment.
Hey what kind of axle is that and where did you buy it
It’s a 1 inch axle and I usually get them off of eBay. Just have to make sure it’s a solid axle and not hollow. Also have to make sure it’s not tapered down at the end.
What kind of chain are you using , how many links are in it
I’m using 35 chain from Tractor Supply. Idk the link count. I just take the roll of chain and put it around the sprockets to measure the length I need then cut the chain. Just make sure you account for the master link in the length
How much hp does it have for you to use torque converter instead of just the clutch??
I don’t have any specific numbers but with a torque converter you’re going to have way more torque, on this kart it’s enough to do wheelies but there is some reduction in top speed. With a regular clutch you’ll struggle to get torque and it will take off very slow but will have a lot of top end speed.
@@jwsbackyard6413 thanks for the feedback. You’ve done a fantastic job and I hope you had as much fun building it as I enjoyed this video!
WHAT WEIGHT OIL DO YOU USE IN YOUR MOTORS
Usually 5w30 or just 30 weight
It's not dumb cold here in kansas I use 10w30 but 5w30 will work
Is there any benefits running it this way?
The converter doesn’t function any differently running it this way. The reason for running it this way is for clearance issues.
What did you use for a rear axle
It’s just a 1 inch axle I bought off of eBay.
Never knew u can put it on backwards
Nice Gokart
what size is this belt
I will have to measure when I get home. I usually just go on Amazon or eBay and search 30 series torque converter belts and buy whatever. The measurement on many of them are 27 1/32 inches
Nice !
I have a question, I put my 40 series tourque converter from gps on my 440 cc engine and go-kart, and I keep blowing out the bearing in the thing, do you know why that would happen
Main thing I can think of that would cause it to fail is the chain being to tight.
@@jwsbackyard6413 I'll try that first, could tightening the driven pulley to much cause that too?
Yeah that’s another possibility. Over tightening the nut would pull pressure on the side of the bearing. I’d use a locknut and tighten with the belt off and make sure the pulley spins without resistance after tightening the nut. If you feel resistance on the pulley you need to back the nut off some.
@@jwsbackyard6413 I will make sure both of those things is not to tight. Thanks for the help
@@camryn9095 did it work? Lol I can't help I'm just curious
Cool!
wow.nice
MERICA.
Kinda don’t like we’re the torque is touching the wheels and the belt as well, bad fashions
It isn’t touching, it just close