How to Make an SLA Finishing Station // 3d Printing | I Like To Make Stuff
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- We got a new SLA resin 3d printer, so we made a finishing station to help clean up and cure the prints. Sponsored by CuriosityStream, for a free month, go to curiositystrea... and use the code "iltms"
TOOLS & SUPPLIES WE USED (affiliate links):
PEOPOLY MOAI 200 SLA PRINTER FROM MATTERHACKERS: www.matterhack...
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MUSIC: share.epidemics...
For this project, we are making a cabinet specifically made to wrap around our new SLA (Stereolithography Apparatus) printer from our friends at Matterhackers, the Moai 200 from Peopoly. We are using this machine to make some super-detailed prints for a collaborative project with Tested.com and Adam Savage to replicate the Apollo 11 Command Module hatch called Project Egress. This printer is very large, think minifridge sized. It isn't practical to sit it on a table and the top surface isn't large enough to be an adequate work surface. Our design will add a set of shelves beside the printer that will match its height and a tabletop that will span across the top of the two.
I cut the pieces out of 1/2" plywood on the table saw and assembled the 3-shelf unit with glue and brad nails. The height was based on the size of the printer so it may not be the same in your instance. I also cut a door that will fit inside of the top cubby. This door will close off the light from the curing area we made in the next section. The table top was placed on top of the shelving unit and brad nailed from underneath. The whole unit was set in place overtop of the printer and it looked great!
SLA printing works by curing liquid resin inside the printer. Once the print is complete it is covered with uncured resin and the part itself isn't yet fully cured. When the part is removed from the build plate, it needs to be rinsed with alcohol (we used denatured, but isopropyl works too) so that the extra liquid resin is removed. The build plate itself has to be cleaned of residual resin so that it is ready to use on the next print.
Because of the size of this large printer, the cleaning process requires a lot of alcohol. We needed a bath of sorts to clean the build plate and a rinse jar to clean the part. I got 2 plastic storage bins the same width as the build plate (so I didn't have to use too much alcohol) and poked holes in one of them. The idea would be that I could lift the holed bin up out of the other and it would act as a colander leaving the solid pieces in the top and the alcohol in the bottom.
For the part cleaning, Josh found a plastic storage bin that is made for keeping vegetables fresh. It has a clear plastic outer bin and a perforated basket on the inside with a lid. With this basket, we can dunk the part in the alcohol, lightly brush it with a soft-bristle brush, and easily remove it to dry. Both of these containers will be covered and set on top of the cabinet surface as part of the finishing station. We covered the top of the cabinet with come contact paper so that the resin and alcohol wouldn't reach the wooden surface, keeping it cleaner over time.
Once the part is dry from its alcohol bath, it still isn't finished. The resin isn't fully cured yet and to complete that process it needs to be exposed to ultraviolet light for 20-30 minutes. The top cubby in the shelving unit will act as a UV light box equipped with a small light-activated turntable. The turntable allows every side of the part to be hit with UV light to maximize even exposure.
Josh order a strand of UV LEDs with an adhesive backing; the set came with a power adapter and an on/off switch. I cut a scrap piece of wood, covered it with aluminum ducting tape, and stuck the LED strip to it. I had to double the lights over creating a zig-zag path to cover the whole wooden sheet. To make the rest of the reflective walls inside the cubby, I used some left-over mirror tiles that were 12" x 12". To save weight, the door was covered in the same reflective aluminum tape and attached to the shelving unit with some face-mounted hinges. Now, when the light-activated turntable is placed inside and the lights are turned on, the part can rotate around and bask in the curing glow of 360 degree UV light.
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How to Make an SLA Finishing Station // 3d Printing | I Like To Make Stuff
• How to Make an SLA Fin...
I Like To Make Stuff
/ iliketomakestuff
To see our 3d printed entry for Project Egress see it here instagram.com/p/BztWY1LAbDh/
hi
Hi Bob, does the resin actually need UV light to cure? In that case, mirrors might not your best option, pure aluminum reflects UV very well, but most types of glass absorb most of it.
This needs to be heard.
Came here to say this, those mirrors are doing almost nothing. Should have gone aluminum foil all around.
Wouldn't an ideal chamber be rounded or at least faceted as well? I would think all those 90* angles would be retro-reflectors and re-direct the light back to the LEDs instead of around the box, greatly reducing the amount of light actually focused in the center
@@SirJoshuaTree The surface variations in the aluminum foil or foil tape would also help this quite a bit.
That aluminum tape is also probably useless: most of those tapes are covered with a thin layer of plastic IIRC, and most plastic will react to UV also. Using just plain kitchen foil would probably have been a better and cheaper solution. Or you know, putting the UV led strip on each panels.
Some important notes: you need to get the right uv LEDs for your type of resin. (382-408nm wavelength are the most common). A 30watt panel cures parts upto 10cm diameter within 1,5- 2 hours. Be aware that parts can get hot and slightly deform when you leave them in to long. Rinse them off with IPA, no scrupping needed (the brush can damage the part) just dipping it a few times is enough in most cases. After curing RI se again with IPA and let it sit a few minutes, then wash it off with clear water. Depending on the type of resin times can vary
That solar-powered turntable was a stroke of genius.
@@han5vk Its clear.
@@zanpekosak2383 Glass does not let UV through.
The uncured sections appear glossy, so we turn the piece so that the bottom gets it's own exposure cycle as well.
@stafdehat I first saw this trick from E&K.
I dig the organizational parts of this Bob. SLA is a messy but worth it process . I’m using it with a way lower cost AnyCubic resin printer for Dental projects to help my Bruxism clenching prob. Peace. Thnx again.
I love the idea of clear contact paper for a work surface, super easy!
10:51 could be a cool outro
It is so mesmerizing to watch those types of 3D printers do their thing. Great solution!
The solar-powered turn table is genius. Well done!
Since there wasnt a video last week i went and watched a bunch of old iltms videos and i just realized how much the videos have changed they used to be a bit slower and more detailed but still i love the videos keep up the great work guys :)
Like the way you improvise solutions to solve problems.
Best example of this is the pan shot towards the end of the video where you put your camera on the turntable.
Maybe add a safety switch to turn off the LED's once the front panel opens, to avoid eye exposure to the UV light.
Nah you dont need eyesight
@@l.no.solace7209 yup, health and safety way over rated, along with eyes and limbs.
Don't go outside either.. The sun is the devil!
Hey Bob, great build. In case of that bust, you can print it straight on the platform so it comes out upside down, and then have 1-2 supports for the overhangs (like the ears).. that's a lot less work with removing the supports. Saves time and material. The model orientation shown in the video looks like the default software settings.
Also no need to wash the platform if it goes back to the resin.
I see a Maker Knife! I love mine. :)
Always great to see projects made from scrap materials. Thanks for another great video!
Look forward to bobs videos the most out of all of RUclips. Keep up the great work!
The way you did the AD is this video is perfect.
Great Video Bob! Glad to see some projects using scrap wood :) SLA Printer is awesome!
I always love watching the bloopers at the end of every video lol
Me too!
Awesome video Bob and Josh! Lots of SLA videos on RUclips lately! Excited to see that 3D printing at home is evolving ever further!
Normal glass mirrors are poor UV reflectors, you should've used the shiny side of aluminum foil.
Sadly, glass-fronted mirrors don't reflect UV light, they absorb it.
Fun project, just what I needed all those years to really improve my life: an SLA Finishing Station!
I'm not the most knowledgeable about resin curing but I think having the solar powered turntable in there, while an awesome idea, may not be doing your resin prints any good, unless you're willing to babysit them while they cure.
Everyone's already said their piece on the use of mirrors and aluminium tape, but I think your prints would be better served if they were put on a metallic, reflective oven rack inside the curing station, one with holes along the bottom. As it stands, if you put the print in like Bob does, every angle except for the bottom would be cured easily (aside from overhanging bits), with a metal rack you'll allow the UV light to bounce and hit most of your print from the underside giving it a much more even cure.
Still this is an awesome idea and I hope to be able to make one of these when I eventually get a printer of my own!
Also there is an option to recess the hinges between the sides and the door. And even easier option, just align the hinge to the outer border of the sides an get those 1-2mm over on the door side. It does not need to be centered on the gap. Than on the other side of the door, take little off from the inside corner, to make sure it does not bind up on the side while opening. That is it. Keep up the good work.
If you're looking for a cheap and reflective material, nothing beats cheap mylar emergency blankets, available in the camping section of most stores. A bit of spray adhesive and some time to keep it from getting wrinkled and you'll have a nearly mirror-perfect surface that can easily cover large objects
Such cool toys. Can't wait to see what you make with the printer
Cool build Bob, I like the eyebrows at the end haha
I really enjoyed the Enter the Dragon sequence!
Fantastic job, Bob! 😃
Love the turn table idea
Must admit, the solar powered turntable got me. So ordered one. 👍👍
*Get better every time* loved this ❤
Btw for the aluminium tape, if you use a plastic straight edge like a card and run it over the tape like a scraper, it will smooth out all the wrinkles and creases as well as blend the edges between tapes together which make it look nicer
You can make a great curing oven from a cheap toaster oven and those same LEDs. It gives you the ability to time you're curing. Just pull out the heating elements and wire the LEDs into the positive and negative leads coming from the timer. For the washing, ultrasonic cleaners and magnetic stirrers somewhat automate the cleaning process too
Nice build can’t wait to see what projects you do in the future
The solar powered turn table was ingenious
Little tip for you, when you apply a vinyl, like the paper on the top of the cabinet.
When you cut off the excess, cut with a 45 degree angle, it makes sure that there will be no little lip on the edge that could lift when you accidentally bump it or something.
This looks like a great setup! Putting contact paper on the top a such good idea! I bet I can use that somewhere to protect something...
You totally can!
Wow great work!
Quick tip about curing resin prints; the resin tends to have cure inhibitors that slow its curing in the open air. Prints will only _fully_ cure in an anaerobic environment, such as submerged in a glass of water. Otherwise the surface can remain slightly tacky or soft. (I'd say pick up some borosilicate lab beakers on Amazon.)
The view of him through the mirrored box should have had a parody song playing over it. “Here’s the story- of a lovely maker...”
I just realized you have inspired E&K on many tools and accessories.
Good Job Bob!
Love the 3D printing builds!
7:20 awsome shot
I made my curing station out of uv led lights and a small stainless steel trashcan with a flip top lid...not sure how well it will work but I think it will work for my needs
I've found that having two alcohol baths has been very important for cleaning prints. The first bath gets most of the resin off the print. Then the second bath gets the rest usually. I've since added a third bath. I've found that it gets prints cleaner and makes my alcohol baths last longer. By the time a piece comes to the third bath it's already pretty clean so when it emerges finally I don't ever have to worry about chalky residue. (I'm just experimenting now with ultrasonic cleaners full of IPA as well.)
Sorry for the necro, but filling a ultrasonic cleaner's vat full of IPA sounds like a extreme fire hazard, the IPA will aerosolize, instead use a bag full of IPA with the print inside in a vat of water.
LMAO! You made it out of "scrap"!!!
I wish my scrap looks half that good...
Nice build.... Looks like it takes more time to clean up the SLA resin than to build the curing rig! :-) :-) :-)
Hey Bob, mirrors would not be good for this project, because glass is not transparent to UV wavelengths of light. Since mirrors are a reflective surface behind a pane of glass I don't think mirrors would reflect UV light well. The best option for this project might be to line the walls with aluminum foil.
Good that you used one of the solar shop turntables if you didn't I was going to comment but have to tell you the rinse station.. that's what I did initially too (well except I did the 3 jar method, dirty IPA to clean IPA to water then 5 minutes in the sun).
You need to get an Ultrasonic cleaner (ebay bunch of options) and 5 minutes @ 35 degrees cleans parts a MILLION times better than hand washing. I was hesitant to do that initially myself because I couldnt find any comparisons online and the reason is, there is no comparison I would be like writing articles on the difference between driving between cities yourself or a plane. It's just that much better.
I picked up a 1.5L ultrasonic cleaner for my own print bed which is plenty of volumes. You fill the ultrasonic cleaner with water and then you put the print in a ziplock bag with some Isopropyl Alcohol. The bag will degrade so don't expect to keep it for long but you can pour the Alcohol out of the bag into a jar to reuse it a few times before letting it just evaporate. I have been asked to print DnD miniatures from Heroforge a lot and the difference on fine details when cleaned properly with an ultrasonic is staggering.
If you wanna get a nice smooth surface when you're using the aluminium tape, use a roller it works great as smoothing the surface over
Good call!
*Summons a wild EvanAndKatelyn*
A UV-box like that is perfect for curing screens for screen-printing . :)
Some SLA machines are becoming seriously affordable. Seen a couple for sub £250 now. The one that interests me is the Longer Orange 10. Seems impressive for the price.
Yeah, that one looks great for being so cheap. I've been thinking about that one too. 🤔
One way mirror on the door would be awesome, so you can watch it while it cures.
You might want to consider sticking a timer on the door for the curing box so you have a quick way to tell how long it’s been in.
The 9 Bob's in the box was a cool visual. Oh, and the project was useful, too. Just wondering about the box for cleaning the bed. Won't the loose fit of the lid allow the alcohol to evaporate? Did I miss the part where you account for that?
Alcohol in that application is a consumable, it gets nasty after a lot of cleaning so it will need to be changed out.
Hey bob, you should try MR clean or simply green and a ultrasonic bath to clean your resin prints, and or print bed. I cant remember who did a video on it, but it seems pretty dang effective and no need to brush your parts (for that oh so gooood finish lol)
Good jorb Bob!
Update the door with plexiglass and use one way mirror foil to have the reflection on the inside and you still can see your model from the outside.
Place the leds on the top of the cabinet on a curved bed so it is pointing to different angles and reflecting all around.
This may be a viable option, but there is a balance between achieving a result and overcomplicating the build.
What utility knife are you using Bob? Thanks. Love the channel and podcast.
Keeping the printer on the ground would be a big con for me. I didn't see anything in the specs for this printer, but if it supports wifi printing, or the ability to use an extended remote box (like Wanhao's sla printer), or even Octopi, that would save some time having you to go hunched over to fiddled with printer.
You live a blessed-life Bob.
7:32 the new Dr.Strange movie looks cool
Evan and Katelyn: we have developed a system of curing our prints...
Bob: Hold my beer.
So cool!
plywood is our everything)
wooooow, today double video
Love your channel!
Thanks!
Bob, I think this would work great for a plastic bleaching station for vintage toys to remove discoloration. Is there anything in particular special or unique about the UV Led strips you used or are they just the ones commonly found on Amazon?
Just curious, how is your R2-D2 build going?
Working on it right now. :)
@@Iliketomakestuff I'm in the very beginning of a build. In the research stage. Would like to know how you are doing your build.
I'm pretty sure that mirrors like that actually have UV absorbing properties as part of the glass composition. The reflective portion of most mirrors is actually on the back of the glass. If you went to a glass company, you can specifically ask to have zero UV protection glass. In this particular case, I think I would just buy some pre-polished/mirror stainless steel.
Are you using IPA or denatured alcohol for the resin wash? My Form2 used IPA. Not sure about your printer.
thanks for sharing that
Hey Bob, aluminum should work great at reflecting the UV, but the glass in front of that aluminum will actually soak up the UV, meaning your mirrors might not be reflecting the UV like you intend. If those are first-surface-mirrors (unlikely - those rarer and pricier), you're good, but otherwise, you should probably scrap the mirrors and use that aluminum tape on all the surfaces.
Interesting, wasn't aware of that.
Love it!!
Could you use mirrored glass on the door so that you could look at your print while it is curring without opening the door
Great one!!
good job on watching where your fingers were when you were Brad nailing
7:20 which Bob do I look at? lol great build thanks for sharing.
That one.
Will any UV light strip work for curing? Does it have to be a certain strength?
This is also great to do retrobrite.
that's a great idea
Maybe cover the solar-powered turntable plastic with the aluminum tape as well? Not so much to reflect the light, but to prolong the life of the plastic?
I've never found that type of large plastic bin to be anywhere near air tight with the lid -- the lid just tends to seal quite poorly. I'm wondering if the alcohol smell is coming out all around that bin?
We walk passed it every day and we can't smell it unless the lid is off
"A fridge for storing alcohol for cleaning"
Sounds like an excuse to have a beer fridge in the office
Joe Mozdy IPA, you say? I’ll have a drink! Wait...
@@Inventorsquare my man
i got some build ideas and the tools i use in my shop are RYOBI since 18 volt + one
Making one out of left over 1 x 38 wood and ply wood for the base just need the led lights and mirror surface and it'll be done
Safety Blankets would work pretty well as a substitute to the aluminum tape, as they cost almost nothing.
Good call!
im just wondering if those leds have any conductive points points on the back or sides because aluminum conducts electricity and that could potentially short circuit
What abt a cool wand from Harry Potter with light and sound? 😍
I've been debating an SLA printer lately for casting projects. Interested to see how you guys implement it for project egress.
I like the build, though I think it would have better as a full table if the space allowed for it. As always though, still a nice build!
Is a "black light" the same as the "uv" lights?
Good job but u have to move the curing station every time u need to level the printer assuming it has the same system as a regular Moai.
Bob, you should put a small timer on the door so you know its finished
Nice build Bob. But why you do not use a pushstick for your tablesaw work anymore. Safety First, Builder😉
I do if my fingers are going to be close. often times the camera makes it look like my hands are closer than they actually are.
@@Iliketomakestuff Thank you for your answer. And keep up the good work with your projects. 👍 Greetings from Germany👌
11:41 : What the food sees when you open the microwave
Mirrored plexiglass would work even better as it is thinner and lighter.
Kinda bummed this isn't a Solid Live Axle project for your truck, but I'll eventually get into 3D printing so I'll watch anyway. ;)
Nice, keep it up
Do you have a fire extinguisher close by?
We have them in the shop, yes.