If the hinges are a risk, you guys may want to look into Jam Pins. (TL;DR, Jam Pins are replacement screws for hinges that have protrusions sticking in the opposite hole in the hinge. As long as the hinge is closed, those pins acts like mini-deadbolts, even if the hinge is unscrewed from the outside.)
"I just want to give you a little encouragement". I think that's what makes this channel so great, Bob - you've never been about showing off or negativity. Thanks for making a show I never think twice about letting my kids watch!
These doors really do dress up the barn. They look great! Chucking the hex screw into the drill is an excellent tip! And using gutters for the trim is brilliant! That intro though... 👍👍
I have used a magnet inside a Ziploc bag to pick up all the metal filings from my work bench & floor. I have to have a debris free floor as I have a dog. Also, you always put the brace from the bottom-->top(that is near the hinge) to keep it from sagging.
Love the cedar pickets! I used the pressure treated pickets to make gates, one for humans and one for the lawn tractor to get from the back yard to the front yard. I also used them for siding on a small shed. Easy to use and inexpensive!
Two things: 1) You may want to reconsider the SS fasteners because you're risking galvanic corrosion unless it's protected from the carbon steel. 2) Bob...dude...cover yourself when you're welding. UV rays don't play.
He is safe from the galvanic corrosion. The stainless Steel hardware that he used will almost mitigate any type of corrosion at all. There are several articles that are available that support the use of stainless steel hardware with other materials. It is used because of the noncorrosive properties.
Galvanic corrosion happens when there is potential differences between the two metals so if there is no electricity near by you should be safe, but its better to paint (or isolate) those holes so the metals don't touch.
Actually, any galvanic corrosion resulting from the contact of two metals will just erode the hole bigger (since it's the "less noble" metal). What WILL happen, however, is what's called "crevice corrosion" that will happen at the point where the screw threads that are exposed to the air meet the portion of the screw that is buried in the wood which will always be somewhat damp.) This is commonly known problem in the marine environment. That's why virtually everything is through-bolted with a nut and washer on the back side. What he should be using is coated deck screws that are designed to resist corrosion inside the wood. In addition to his flashing deficiencies, he also should have put an astragal on one or the other of those door leaves where they meet in the middle.
This might've had my favorite intro you've ever done. Also really like the gutter idea for the flashing! Good reminder to not get stuck looking for "exactly" what you need, but something that can be what you need, or at least solve the problem (not having a metal brake).
Bob, when cutting angle sections upside down like that, I’ve always used an off cut from a piece of box-section to clamp in with it. I use a rectangular section so it won’t interfere with the inside curve, but is wider than the top flange of the angle so that it clamps securely. If you don’t have a piece of steel that fills the requirement, use a piece of wood. I’ve used a chunk of 2x4, and it works too. It just needs to be able to fit in the saw clamp and hold tight.
One of my biggest dreams is being in the same room as Bob or Jimmy Diresta and hearing Bob saying Jimmy’s name in a sentence just made my heart melt, these guys are huge inspirations of mine, keep making guys!!!!
Good stuff. Heads up for anyone using cedar pickets like this; they generally come from the mill green so there's going to be a fair bit of shrinkage that'll be pretty obvious when placed edge-to-edge. If that's a concern, take the necessary precautions.
Hey, Bob. This was a very enjoyable show. Probably the best I have seen from you in a while. You nailed the format, and the content. Love the mixed media great cinematography. I could easily see this as an afternoon diy show on any number of national networks. Great video.
I don't currently own a barn but I am sure I got something from this video (stored away for use at a later date). Great to see new projects out at the farm, I'm looking forward to the next video and it's always good seeing Josh in front of the camera.
Hey Bob, nice doors. When I am clamping angle in a vise for the chop saw or the band saw, I use a block of scrap wood inside the L of the angle. This way the vise is clamping on the vertical portion of the angle and not relying on the thin horizontal piece to hold all the load. Obviously you didn't have any problems, but if the blade jams or anything it is a little more secure having that solid block inside the angle. Thanks for another great project. R.J.
Repurposing guttering. A brilliant tip that demonstrates that simple solutions can often be found. It looked to me like the utility knife gave the cleaner cut but scoring those long lengths.... yeah, go bandsaw! Great job, Your doors are cute....Jimmy's are just, show-off!
You've got the steel bracing in the correct direction. It's so long and thin that it can't take any reasonable compression. Perfect to use for a tension brace.
Just a little tip for grinding those welds. Use the flat sanding disks with a backing disk. The grind way fasted than a normal thick grinding wheel. And even makes a smoother finish than the hard disks
Bob, I love your videos. I am always excited when you post a new one. You have inspired me to step up my hobby game on many levels. Thanks for all of the hard work you and your team do.
The projects keep getting more and more amazing, yet still something that most shops can do. I am also loving all the new cinematography that is evolving as well. I have also noticed your welding get smoother and smoother.
I love the video it took me a couple months to commit to putting the work in but I did it and they turned out fantastic I just have to hang the doors over the weekend. I went with the one by six finished cedar for my build. And I’m waiting for my handles to come in tomorrow Lionhead door knockers
You should put either offset pickets, counter angled pickets, or 3/4 plywood behind the doors on the inside. I noticed when you were closing them that light from inside the barn came through the picket slats which means wind and rain can too. Putting a backing on the inside of the doors will close those up - and if you do a weather proofing between the pickets and the plywood, the plywood would give you a mounting surface for more stuff that won't poke through the outside pickets.
you covered it at the end , but yes cross bracing works better in compression for doors and gates ,,side note your choice of attachment hardware would make entry into this location far easier for a thief than other methods... thanks for the video
Love the doors. Was a bit worried about the white outer frame of the door when you started putting it up, but it looks much better than I thought it would. One thing about cutting the steal beams, I've been cutting at 44 or 46 degrees after I read in some metal working book that that helps with creating some space for the weld to settle much better, and you'll be making sure that you get a proper 90° angle anyways. Just saves you some grinding time, and makes for a stronger weld.
Hi, I'm Mike and I like to watch Bob make Stuff! Nice solid Barn doors but you should put some handles on them that would make it look finished and functional! Thumbs up!
I found your channel a few weeks back while trying to learn how to do something. Since I have been hooked. I love your work! Keep it up! I wish I could do the same types of things. Now that I am nearing retirement maybe I can start having fun too!
When I did my apprenticeship we were always taught when cutting angle iron the way you did when you flipped it over, to put a scrap piece of RHS underneath to give you more surface area on the face to clamp to
Hey Bob, here my tip for cutting these 45 degrees upside down: If you have your angleiron upside down in the saw, put a piece of leftover metal (square Tube) under it, which is wider than the angleiron and tighten it on the leftover piece. Its hard to explain, but its a simple solution! P.s. Love your videos!
Love the podcast. I follow all 3 of you. Heard you guys talking about the doors and was excited to see your take on them. Thanks for sharing all your “making”! It really is a great wealth of information. Much appreciated by this fellow trying to find time to use my tools 😉
1:52 You can put a little block of metal under the horizontal part. Trough the block the clamp will press against the vertical part an has a much bigger surface to hold the piece in place. Also it doesn't "roll over" and get loose.
While I love your videos regardless, I always love the little random elements, like the "Hey" and "Bye" for the moth or bird that was flying into your shot as you put the doors on LOL
Just got to your question on the podcast - with wooden gates/doors the z is the opposite of what you have so that triangle holds the furthest point of the panel in square. There’s an inexpensive book called the “Fence Bible” you should check out that explains fences and gates in all material types. My guesstimate is that with steal it would be better to do it this way. If you had used tubes steel I don’t think it’s necessary.
Yes I agree totally, wooden door braces are designed to be in compression, but with steel doors and gates, the brace wants to be in tension! Interestingly, the wood on these doors will probably act like a compression brace in themselves, I’d be surprised if these doors sag much!
I am late to the party but came to say the same thing. As engineer flat bar like that should be tension as he did. Being screwed to the wood would help in compression by reducing the buckling length but tension better. Thank you to the reply about hang metal prop wood gate. I’ll remember that
When you cut angle using a band saw place a larger piece of square tubing in the vise and place the angle above or under depending on the cut to secure your angle. PS: you don’t have to extend the tubing out to the cut, just extend the angle out past the vise.
These look awesome!! Perfect timing because I need to build a gate and want to do a "heavy duty" look so ill definitely be copying/adapting this to suit 😁
Literally came in looking for this comment. Water is going to run down the wall behind the gutter flashing and along the bottom of the 4x4 header and straight into the barn.
A little bracing info from a structural engineer: The bracing direction all depends on the cross section of the brace being used and the fastener type. The current configuration has the braces in tension, which is perfect because the thin profile of the bar would buckle under compression load. Also, because it’s welded, there’s no slip in the fasteners like you might have if you had screwed a wood brace inside a frame. Wood usually is the opposite direction because it’s a larger section and can hold a higher compressive load without buckling. Also, like I mentioned before, you can’t weld wood together so you will always have slop between the screw, but in the compressive condition, the load is transferred through direct bearing of the brace on the wood frame, not through the screws. Hope this helps make sense of material science and structural design!
Awesome project. I work in commercial architecture and we do diagonal bracing on many different scales like that pretty commonly. Should hold up great!
Bob from the future, the brazing under tension is the correct way to do this with steel straps, steel will bend under compression but is very strong under tension. Wooden razes are the opposite, weak under tension but strong under compression which is why they are installed the other way around. :-)
When cutting like that with the bandsaw, use a block that is larger than the width, that way you have more pressure on the vertical portion of the material.
Yes, there is a locking mechanism on the inside of the door. First!
Kudos on the brilliant intro. Great job, guys!
How's the sunburn on your legs 😂
If the hinges are a risk, you guys may want to look into Jam Pins. (TL;DR, Jam Pins are replacement screws for hinges that have protrusions sticking in the opposite hole in the hinge. As long as the hinge is closed, those pins acts like mini-deadbolts, even if the hinge is unscrewed from the outside.)
i know it's kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good website to watch newly released movies online ?
@Saul Brysen Lately I have been using FlixZone. Just google for it :)
"I just want to give you a little encouragement". I think that's what makes this channel so great, Bob - you've never been about showing off or negativity. Thanks for making a show I never think twice about letting my kids watch!
Thank you!!
These doors really do dress up the barn. They look great! Chucking the hex screw into the drill is an excellent tip! And using gutters for the trim is brilliant! That intro though... 👍👍
Figments Made I have my moments
Bob Clagett, kicking ass and painting grass since 2013
Hahaha
I haven't seen his painting grass video, but that IS a thing!!!
I have used a magnet inside a Ziploc bag to pick up all the metal filings from my work bench & floor. I have to have a debris free floor as I have a dog. Also, you always put the brace from the bottom-->top(that is near the hinge) to keep it from sagging.
That Intro is one of my favorites!
Super simple in-camera trick, and it's one of the coolest visuals I've seen in a while!
Hyrule me too
Hey Bob , on the angle cut where the flat side was on top , just use a piece of box tubing to vise it in with .Do it all the time at work .
That intro though! My favorite part of the day so far
I think there might be an issue for when it rains and getting water into the top of that frame. It looks as though there is no flashing
Top aluminum trim will gather water during rain
Hinges can be unscrewed from outside, so its better to place them between door and stand.
Even though it's been filmed. I still find myself closing my eyes during the welding. Great project
Lol me too XD
As do I ...
Love the cedar pickets! I used the pressure treated pickets to make gates, one for humans and one for the lawn tractor to get from the back yard to the front yard. I also used them for siding on a small shed. Easy to use and inexpensive!
the gutter flashing on the header may collect water ya might wanna seal it or pop some weep holes in it great looking doors
Two things:
1) You may want to reconsider the SS fasteners because you're risking galvanic corrosion unless it's protected from the carbon steel.
2) Bob...dude...cover yourself when you're welding. UV rays don't play.
He is safe from the galvanic corrosion. The stainless Steel hardware that he used will almost mitigate any type of corrosion at all. There are several articles that are available that support the use of stainless steel hardware with other materials. It is used because of the noncorrosive properties.
Aren't you also not supposed to weld on concrete? Isn't there the risk of the concrete exploding?
Galvanic corrosion happens when there is potential differences between the two metals so if there is no electricity near by you should be safe, but its better to paint (or isolate) those holes so the metals don't touch.
Actually, any galvanic corrosion resulting from the contact of two metals will just erode the hole bigger (since it's the "less noble" metal). What WILL happen, however, is what's called "crevice corrosion" that will happen at the point where the screw threads that are exposed to the air meet the portion of the screw that is buried in the wood which will always be somewhat damp.) This is commonly known problem in the marine environment. That's why virtually everything is through-bolted with a nut and washer on the back side. What he should be using is coated deck screws that are designed to resist corrosion inside the wood. In addition to his flashing deficiencies, he also should have put an astragal on one or the other of those door leaves where they meet in the middle.
@@Captn_Grumpy I had same thoughts and deside to check other comments... so, I'm not alone )))
This might've had my favorite intro you've ever done. Also really like the gutter idea for the flashing! Good reminder to not get stuck looking for "exactly" what you need, but something that can be what you need, or at least solve the problem (not having a metal brake).
Gold star for that intro! 🌟
Bob, when cutting angle sections upside down like that, I’ve always used an off cut from a piece of box-section to clamp in with it. I use a rectangular section so it won’t interfere with the inside curve, but is wider than the top flange of the angle so that it clamps securely. If you don’t have a piece of steel that fills the requirement, use a piece of wood. I’ve used a chunk of 2x4, and it works too. It just needs to be able to fit in the saw clamp and hold tight.
One of my biggest dreams is being in the same room as Bob or Jimmy Diresta and hearing Bob saying Jimmy’s name in a sentence just made my heart melt, these guys are huge inspirations of mine, keep making guys!!!!
That welding montage was really nicely put together!
Thank you!!
This intro, 10/10!!!!!
That opening transition was awesome.
Good stuff. Heads up for anyone using cedar pickets like this; they generally come from the mill green so there's going to be a fair bit of shrinkage that'll be pretty obvious when placed edge-to-edge. If that's a concern, take the necessary precautions.
Hey, Bob. This was a very enjoyable show. Probably the best I have seen from you in a while. You nailed the format, and the content. Love the mixed media great cinematography. I could easily see this as an afternoon diy show on any number of national networks. Great video.
The best part of this was the butterfly admiring some great work by Bob and team.
Christopher Pilcher Hey, bye.
Now that... THAT was a good opening transition 10/10
I don't currently own a barn but I am sure I got something from this video (stored away for use at a later date). Great to see new projects out at the farm, I'm looking forward to the next video and it's always good seeing Josh in front of the camera.
Thank you!! i hope there's always a little tip or trick that may be handy someday down the road 👍🏼
Hey Bob, nice doors. When I am clamping angle in a vise for the chop saw or the band saw, I use a block of scrap wood inside the L of the angle. This way the vise is clamping on the vertical portion of the angle and not relying on the thin horizontal piece to hold all the load. Obviously you didn't have any problems, but if the blade jams or anything it is a little more secure having that solid block inside the angle. Thanks for another great project. R.J.
Repurposing guttering. A brilliant tip that demonstrates that simple solutions can often be found. It looked to me like the utility knife gave the cleaner cut but scoring those long lengths.... yeah, go bandsaw! Great job, Your doors are cute....Jimmy's are just, show-off!
You've got the steel bracing in the correct direction. It's so long and thin that it can't take any reasonable compression. Perfect to use for a tension brace.
Just a little tip for grinding those welds. Use the flat sanding disks with a backing disk. The grind way fasted than a normal thick grinding wheel. And even makes a smoother finish than the hard disks
I like the idea of using the gutter for the trim. Clever.
That transition in the beginning was dope
Bob, I love your videos. I am always excited when you post a new one. You have inspired me to step up my hobby game on many levels. Thanks for all of the hard work you and your team do.
Great introductory transition pushing down the door and landing on the finished product. Well done video.
The projects keep getting more and more amazing, yet still something that most shops can do.
I am also loving all the new cinematography that is evolving as well.
I have also noticed your welding get smoother and smoother.
The little birdie and the bye at 11:40
I just learned a whole lot! Especially that bit at the end about the diagonal and compression. That’s super helpful! Thanks guys!
Excellent Jacob! Glad to hear it!!
I'm 31 years old and I just learned that you can cut a gutter with utility knife, nice!!
I love the video it took me a couple months to commit to putting the work in but I did it and they turned out fantastic I just have to hang the doors over the weekend.
I went with the one by six finished cedar for my build.
And I’m waiting for my handles to come in tomorrow Lionhead door knockers
What happened with the ants? You can’t just leave us with a cliffhanger like that bob!
You should put either offset pickets, counter angled pickets, or 3/4 plywood behind the doors on the inside. I noticed when you were closing them that light from inside the barn came through the picket slats which means wind and rain can too. Putting a backing on the inside of the doors will close those up - and if you do a weather proofing between the pickets and the plywood, the plywood would give you a mounting surface for more stuff that won't poke through the outside pickets.
you covered it at the end , but yes cross bracing works better in compression for doors and gates ,,side note your choice of attachment hardware would make entry into this location far easier for a thief than other methods... thanks for the video
Love the doors. Was a bit worried about the white outer frame of the door when you started putting it up, but it looks much better than I thought it would.
One thing about cutting the steal beams, I've been cutting at 44 or 46 degrees after I read in some metal working book that that helps with creating some space for the weld to settle much better, and you'll be making sure that you get a proper 90° angle anyways. Just saves you some grinding time, and makes for a stronger weld.
Absolutely incredible job Bob!Your videos never get old. Keep up the great work!
Love the intro transition keep up the good work bob
Hi, I'm Mike and I like to watch Bob make Stuff! Nice solid Barn doors but you should put some handles on them that would make it look finished and functional! Thumbs up!
Loved the butterfly easter egg in there! Great video as always
Those sure are some stylish barn doors 👍
That top flashing is...interesting.
You created a gutter that will capture rain and hold it against the wood framing.
That was a really cool transition in the beginning
Thanks!
I found your channel a few weeks back while trying to learn how to do something. Since I have been hooked. I love your work! Keep it up! I wish I could do the same types of things. Now that I am nearing retirement maybe I can start having fun too!
Oh that opening transition #chefkiss
I love the music in your vids man!!! It hecking ROCKS🤘🤘🤘
🎸🤘🔥
Nice really dresses up the new shop
Really smart doors. Thumbs up from sunny NZ
When I did my apprenticeship we were always taught when cutting angle iron the way you did when you flipped it over, to put a scrap piece of RHS underneath to give you more surface area on the face to clamp to
Hey Bob, here my tip for cutting these 45 degrees upside down:
If you have your angleiron upside down in the saw, put a piece of leftover metal (square Tube) under it, which is wider than the angleiron and tighten it on the leftover piece. Its hard to explain, but its a simple solution!
P.s. Love your videos!
Love the podcast. I follow all 3 of you. Heard you guys talking about the doors and was excited to see your take on them. Thanks for sharing all your “making”! It really is a great wealth of information. Much appreciated by this fellow trying to find time to use my tools 😉
Thanks so much for listening!!
1:52 You can put a little block of metal under the horizontal part. Trough the block the clamp will press against the vertical part an has a much bigger surface to hold the piece in place. Also it doesn't "roll over" and get loose.
Olá, parabéns pelo belo serviço. Abraços do Brasil.
Hi-Bye Butterfly @11:40 makes this video a true masterpiece. S/O Forby
While I love your videos regardless, I always love the little random elements, like the "Hey" and "Bye" for the moth or bird that was flying into your shot as you put the doors on LOL
Small kind of bird?
Just got to your question on the podcast - with wooden gates/doors the z is the opposite of what you have so that triangle holds the furthest point of the panel in square. There’s an inexpensive book called the “Fence Bible” you should check out that explains fences and gates in all material types. My guesstimate is that with steal it would be better to do it this way. If you had used tubes steel I don’t think it’s necessary.
44 degees is better if you are welding the pieces together. Learned that from Fireball Tools! Great video Bob!
For a steel brace made out of a flat bar, you've done it in the correct direction.
even if done with cable would be done right
Yes I agree totally, wooden door braces are designed to be in compression, but with steel doors and gates, the brace wants to be in tension!
Interestingly, the wood on these doors will probably act like a compression brace in themselves, I’d be surprised if these doors sag much!
Agreed. I was taught when it comes to bracing, you hang a metal gate and prop a wooden gate.
I am late to the party but came to say the same thing. As engineer flat bar like that should be tension as he did. Being screwed to the wood would help in compression by reducing the buckling length but tension better. Thank you to the reply about hang metal prop wood gate. I’ll remember that
tension is for flat steal correct, compression would require an angel iron or it would bow out
:-)
These intros keep getting better and better !
Awww man thank you so much for liking my comment. That has made my day now 🥰
When you cut angle using a band saw place a larger piece of square tubing in the vise and place the angle above or under depending on the cut to secure your angle.
PS: you don’t have to extend the tubing out to the cut, just extend the angle out past the vise.
Good call, thanks!!
Love the podcast plug! If you guys love ILTMS, you'll love the podcast!! Give it a listen.
Nice! Smart thinking with the gutters!
These look awesome!!
Perfect timing because I need to build a gate and want to do a "heavy duty" look so ill definitely be copying/adapting this to suit 😁
Awesome barn doors !!!!!!! Also thanks for the knowledge Sir
Love the podcast. Just found it a few months ago. Lots of great lessons learned from the discussions. Oh, and by the way, the barn doors look great!
Very good watch again!!!
Great work guys! I like how you troubleshooted the frame angles
Did you paint the holes you drilled in the frame? If not....well rust.
No, I got out of order and will probably have to deal with it in the future.
Hey mate, what about that top flashing waterproofing? Where's the water going to go when it rains?
I was wondering the same thing
Literally came in looking for this comment. Water is going to run down the wall behind the gutter flashing and along the bottom of the 4x4 header and straight into the barn.
I was also wondering about that. Looks great though!
Same thought
@@wktaylor11 it does look pretty good, no doubt about that
Those doors look amazing!! Great upgrade
A little bracing info from a structural engineer: The bracing direction all depends on the cross section of the brace being used and the fastener type. The current configuration has the braces in tension, which is perfect because the thin profile of the bar would buckle under compression load. Also, because it’s welded, there’s no slip in the fasteners like you might have if you had screwed a wood brace inside a frame. Wood usually is the opposite direction because it’s a larger section and can hold a higher compressive load without buckling. Also, like I mentioned before, you can’t weld wood together so you will always have slop between the screw, but in the compressive condition, the load is transferred through direct bearing of the brace on the wood frame, not through the screws. Hope this helps make sense of material science and structural design!
That's awesome information, thank you for sharing!!
What if you made an X instead of one cross brace. Would that strengthen the door?
Awesome project. I work in commercial architecture and we do diagonal bracing on many different scales like that pretty commonly. Should hold up great!
Nice work! Those doors look amazing. Also, a good tip on using gutters for trim/flashing. I had not thought about that before.
15:07 The best blooper on ILTMS by now xD
this channel is really motivating. Glad I came across it. 😊😊
Could you do a bits video on different kinds of screws/bolts? I feel like that would be pretty useful. Keep up the great work!
Looks good. Nice job
New editing skills are amazing
That's Forby, he's been editing for a LONG time and is really good at it!!
🙏
Bob from the future, the brazing under tension is the correct way to do this with steel straps, steel will bend under compression but is very strong under tension. Wooden razes are the opposite, weak under tension but strong under compression which is why they are installed the other way around. :-)
Awesome work Bob! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
What a beautiful door! The quality of the projects and the quality of the videos has grown substantially! Keep on doing great stuff Bob!
Thanks so much!
Great job! Love them doors!
no this wont sag the build is satisfying bravo
Nice addition to the barn.
Thanks Dan!
Love your videos man, much love from another Kentuckian
Fantastic intro!
Nice project! The doors looking great! 😊
Awesome! I can't wait to see other barn projects!
When cutting like that with the bandsaw, use a block that is larger than the width, that way you have more pressure on the vertical portion of the material.
Ah, excellent point! Thanks!
Sick intro transition
Love the out takes 😂
Every video the editing gets better. That intro was amazing!