Come on over to the sewing community, everyone. There is a way to opt out of the fashion rat race and get exactly what you want (and what fits) - make your own. Thrift shopping isn’t much of an option in the plus size range, but sewing gives you the power to make what you love in any size. And you get to be free of the trend cycles in cut and color and make what works for you. I got so sick of always settling for the least bad option.
Sewing has its limitations. I used to sew a lot, and even had my own business selling what I made, but commercial patterns are terrible. The pattens always need to be altered to fit properly with the associated pattern making time consuming. Same goes for achieving a polished tailored result that doesn’t scream home made. Don’t get me wrong, I still sew for myself but store bought garments are still needed, unless you don’t need to work outside of home or have caring duties for children or elderly relatives.
@@Orangebicycle7887 Indie sewing patterns have revolutionized home sewing in the past 5-10 years, so there are lots of directions to go in terms of style and fit. And Instagram has a robust sewing community - I even recognize some Instagram sewing folks in Hannah’s fashion slide shows. I never notice anyone looking “homemade”, just fabulous.
Can not stress this enough - STOP checking the brand tag and START checking the fabric label (inside the garment on the side). Yes, Gucci makes clothes that are 100% plastic and sells them for thousands of dollars. Don't be duped.
EXACTLY. This is the single most devastating fact that takes all the glamour and fairy dust out of designer brands. We're paying for the name and the social cache that comes with it. Quality and durability doesn't even come into the equation. My skin is sensitive and my wallet isn't bottomless. I've shopped by fabric exclusively for 7 years now and have no regrets.
honestly the cheap quality of fabrics and how they look frumpy after a few wears is probably one of the biggest contributors to fast fashion and why we keep craving more clothes (without even knowing it)
As a knitter, I think the thing that makes the biggest different isn't necessarily how thick or thin the yarn itself is, but actually how tightly it's knit. You can have a sweater that's knit in really thick yarn, but if it's knit loosely, it'll still get stretched out faster. And, you can have sweaters that are knit in finer yarn, so the garment isn't as 'thick' or as warm, but if it's knit tightly enough, it'll stand the test of time much more. If you're not a knitter, this might sound complicated! Just do the flop test: hold the garment up vertically. Does it completely flop over your hands? Or does it retain some structure and remain more upright? The more upright it remains, the tighter it's knit, and the better it'll probably keep it's shape over time. Sometimes very thick sweaters are just too warm and they can also be very floppy, which can have the same unpolished effect! Hope the flop test helps :) Edit: type of fiber makes a big difference too! Alpaca feels lovely and soft but oh boy it can stretch so much and also pill a LOT, epecially if it's a thicker, fluffier yarn.
@@donamariadubois2402there are tons of wool breeds of sheep out there with different technical characteristics, bred for different end products, everything from rug wool to next to skin. merino generally (and there are subgroups within merino) has a reputation for being very soft and having a good elasticity/very crimpy fiber. it’s not necessarily as hard wearing as other wool breeds. shetland wool is used for colorwork knits to make lightweight but very lofty garments that hold stitches together beautifully. jacobs, bluefaced leicester, and other hardy wools are used in sock blends and have more durability to offer. romney wool is popular with handspinners for being user friendly, and though originally bred for rug wool, some breeders raise very soft romney wool. merino is the most commercially available wool in the clothing industry, but if you are getting into fabric construction (weaving, knitting, felting, crochet, etc.) then there is a whole world of options. fibers like mohair(goat) and angora (rabbit) are non sheep wool alternatives and also very luxurious. there is a great book called the Fleece and Fiber Sourcebook which can give a more thorough answer to your question. I personally am enthusiastic about a layer system with cashmere and yak wool, and superfine merino for next to skin, and more rustic rugged wool for outerwear sweaters. from a spinner/knitter who raises Icelandic sheep. (Icelandic wool is also awesome, but dual coated so that’s another layer of complexity). one of the thing that varies hugely in wool is crimp size: there are long wools with loose curls and locks up to 12” long (mohair, teaswater, icelandics) and there are breeds with short downy fibers that are elastic, and work better in a woolen, lofty, spacious, springy yarn (babydoll southdown, fresian, superfine shetland). this is a generalization, the question you pose has a whole world of study behind it, and I have a limited perspective as well as limited space to answer here. depending on what you are searching for, what use you want to put the wool to, there is a breed for that. it wont hurt to get more specific, in terms of “does it exist” it just might get difficult to find ready to wear garments at that level.
Are you sure that your pilling culprit was Alpaca? I have found that cashmere pills really bad, way worse than alpaca. I love knitting with alpaca yarn, but it sure isn't for anything that is going to stay in a shape.
That's a good observation about tightness of the knit. That may help counteract sloppy wool handling, too - which just comes along with mass producing a variable product. You can't see manufacturing choices in the end product right away. Different wool animal breeds have different staple length - the length of the shorn wool. And the wool varies widely between breeds, also age, health, and honestly the part of the animal. A higher quality yarn would be one that is made for the purpose: soft, airy (insulating) short fibers for woolen warm and soft hats or scarves; longer, possibly coarser worsted fibers from long-staple animals for longer, harder-wearing garments. A worsted, woven, felted garment from long- staple wool will likely last a lifetime. Also be kinda stiff at first. People spin and knit partly to choose the right fibers for the garment and make sure it is processed and milled in a way in line with that.
"How will this item age?" is yet another reason I love thrift stores. As long as it doesn't have the tags still on, stuff at the thrift store has probably already shrunk any amount that it was going to, stretched out if it was going to, and it'll never look more wrinkly than it does crammed onto the thrift store racks!
Exactly! And the amount of crap I see from "grocery chain that decided to get into discount clothing", and "mal-mart the small town killer" that is now pilled/faded/stretched being sold for a mere 20% less than it was in the original store, new, because the thrift shop can't process and display it for less than that... is both annoying and ridiculous.
I've used this logic to find jeans that fit like a glove! (wheras buying brand new jeans with even just 1% elastane has led to them sagging and stretching out) Also can we talk about how it has become standard to put elastane in ALL women's jeans, no matter how relaxed the cut? I'm looking at you, levi's 501s....
@@yael9455 Yes! This! I cannot find 100% cotton denim jeans anywhere! Anyone? the only jeans my local thrift and consignment stores have are low rise and skinny leg, usually with rips or rhinestones ... you get the picture. Back in college I wore boys 501s, maybe I should look there?
For colors, I think it depends on your "seasonal color analysis." I used to think it was some silly suburban house wife trend along with Kibbe types, but actually makes sense. Wearing colors that suit your complexion, hair, eye and skin undertones based on color theory is unmatched. Some people cannot wear bright colors without being overshadowed by them.
Everyone is into it right now but seasonal colors just grind my gears haha. That concept absolutely ignores that olive skin (in various shades) exists, that rosacea can make you have a different skin tone on your face vs. your body and so much more. I've seen other concepts though on youtube that are much more detailed so looking that up may be beneficial regardless.
The problem is you can change your hair and eye colour, also their style, and even your skin depending on the season. Even though I don't sunbath and even use sunscreen, I just look paler on winter, or maybe it's the dreary atmosphere? Lighting? You don't stay frozen for a long time as you age. I guess you can try to prolong it, by not wearing contacts, wigs or colouring your hair? Idk it seems boring to me. Personally, I think you can wear any colour, but the problem is what you will combine it with to fit you right now, some do have horrible sense of colour? and choose clashing ones... so people who don't want to bother just use monochrome which is effortless elegant. I also think it looks good on anyone.
As a seamstress I have found you can elevate even the cheapest most ill constructed piece of clothing with a good ironing. It's not permanent, but on a lot of the clothing that have those puckers, ripples, and just won't lay nicely on you it can temporarily fix that or at least make it much less noticeable. I have even used a little starch with a good pressing on some of my rock band T's to take them from wrinkly, puckered frumpiness to crisp and polished.
Hi Hannah, I'm your occasional, lol; great content! Nothing compares to quality fabric, NOTHING! The thickness and density of the textile fiber absolutely matter! More than a year ago, I bought two classic, elegant, and quite expensive white cotton blend tees. Each cost over $50. I bought them out of curiosity to see if they were worth the money. Well, I can't believe how great they are! Both are well-constructed = they perfectly keep their shape even after multiple washes, as I wear them pretty often. The fabric doesn't pill at all, which is really something(!), and they're still white. Both are so fantastic-looking, versatile, essential pieces that I can wear almost anywhere, for any occasion, dress them up/down; I absolutely love them! Conclusion. They were definitely worth the money, that's for sure! So. If you're by chance just starting to re/build your wardrobe, forget about everything else and save money on a few of the best basics - as great as you can afford. Some white and black T-shirts, a simple semi-fitted white button-down shirt, a great pair of dark jeans, one of those amazing Ralph Lauren jackets (even if you're only 18 and you might think it's too formal, I can guarantee, you'll love it!! ), nice simple looking white sneakers, low cut Thursday boots and a simple camel/grey/black warm coat. Add a sturdy leather handbag in the right size and color to match your lifestyle. All simple, no(!) fancy details and you'll be polished all year round with almost zero(!) effort. Also, switch to well-cut nude underwear, which is not visible even under more transparent clothes and fits you like a second skin; moreover, it does not look "off-white" immediately after the second wash 🙂! P.S. And the devil is, as always, in the details, lol! Your basics will do the heavy lifting on your well-polished outlook. The refined, fancy, individuality-adding look comes with details = accessories. You even can go wild with them - scarves, earrings, bracelets, belts, shoes, hats, you name it.
Everyone should watch this. I mean EVERYONE. I'm completely sick of poorly designed clothing made of cheap fabrics in uninspired colors. Sadly, that is what most of my wardrobe is. BUT fear not with this sage advice!!! Im fixing that!!! As usual, Hannah has put her finger directly on the pulse of what is so desperately needed in our clothing economy. All Hail Hannah! Thank you! ❤
And online shopping has made things worse. (I am terrible about returning things on time.) I find myself sticking to only designers with consistent quality so I know what I will get online. Trial and error is making me loyal.
@eileencarroll6418 I am going to try to vigorously search for secondhand items on the online consignment sites. I live in Arkansas and on the best day shopping here is awful. Almost nowhere that sells quality clothing. And I mean in the entire state. It's pitiful.
She missed one of the most important parts though! Staple or fiber length!!! That’s what makes the real difference in end quality of natural fibers, a woolen wool sweater is just as likely to pill as a polyester one!! Worsted wool is the long lasting one!!! And no one has to report the average fiber length (modern machines even cut linen so it fits the machines for cotton it’s a durability nightmare)
I like your material but I still dislike how you're pandering to men with a fetish in your pictures. Can women not have anything for themselves? Even performative feminity ....
For me, being plus sized adds many layers of challenges to this problem. There is less availability of clothing overall, and the types of casual clothes that look cool and stylish on thin people often look frumpy and sloppy on plus sized people. Like that tiktok trend “is it a fit or is she just skinny.” The right cut is even harder to find, and non-stretch fabrics often just aren’t practical or comfortable for larger folks. BUT I’m trying to overcome my own cynicism about it and take what is helpful from fashion videos like these.
So true! I have now and then found good pieces in Mango. Especially dressy trousers and blazers. The fabric is usually a polyester mix but it keeps the shape and color nicely when washed. Also some of their knits are really good. But I agree - its a jungle when being plus size! Btw HM rarely also have some nice pieces. Look for the more expensive stuff. I recently bought a shirt and a dress in 100% good quality cotton.
I've been thinking about this a lot after seeing similar comments on recent videos! I linked a number of plus-sized options in the description box for this one, and I'm definitely keeping an eagle-eye out for more ❤
Came here to say this. I’m on the straight/plus size border and I’m practically a different dress size on each region of my body, anything ‘sturdy’ or thick is my nemesis 😭 I need stretch and flow or I look like a cardboard box. I often find there’s this paradox where the best fabrics and cuts to fit on my body are from the cheap and nasty stores I’d rather avoid. I am getting better at very selective thrifting but gosh it’s a struggle.
Im plus size as well I have found good American makes good jeans I have the same issue I love to wear clothes without stretch they have good ones as well as Everlane and I always size up and take my clothes to a seamtress because im petite as well . Hope it helps
Color is soooo subjective. To me, bright and saturated “kindergarten crayon” colors will always look a bit cheesy and immature (the opposite of polished). Muted, desaturated colors look calm, which speaks “polished” to me. I think coordinating with your skin tone (warm vs cool, saturated vs desaturated) also adds to a polished look. That said-when people wear colors that make them happy and fit their personality, it somehow just sings. So wear what makes you happy!
Yes, I was just thinking that. Depending on undertones and contrast in your coloring the mid tones may look the best and the washed out neutrals and really saturated colors may do you a disservice.
Same thoughts here. In the winter, I get quite pale and can look almost green but in the summer I am a bronze goddess. I have dark hair and eyes so in the winter, more contrast with darker tones being what looks more polished, all the blackened versions of colors, leaning more cool. In the summer, brighter and lighter colors than winter, which winds up being mids look better. Whitewashed/ faded colors never look good on me but grayed or blackened is fine and cool toned muted pastels. Super brights look photoshopped onto me. It really just depends on everything put together.
The teal and yellow she pointed out would be perfect for me in the summer because I need white that isn’t white (too bright) and pales in the summer work great. Hence all my burgundy is long sleeve or sweaters and all my pales and mids periwinkle, brighter purples, etc. are warm weather wear.
I was thinking the same thing. I look best in soft and muted colours rather than too saturated ones. I think paying attention to what colours look good on you is important. But even then I understand what she means about choosing colours that are firmly that colour and not an in-between, for example beige or grey versus greige, which is neither one nor the other.
Just dropping in this little addendum in case it’s of use to anyone. Don’t forget about starch. Our grandparents obsessed about starch for a very good reason. It needs to be used judiciously but if you learn a bit about how to use them, they can make a massive difference to the look and feel of your natural fibre clothing. I even use it to starch the collars of my t shirts to keep them nice and crisp and sturdy. I use them on my button up shirts that I don’t want to look rumpled and relaxed. I occasionally use it to refresh the pleats or creases in my pants. I occasionally use it on my cotton summer dresses if I want them to look just that little bit elevated. Just some food for thought. I know it’s not for everyone, but it really could be an addition to your laundering that makes the difference you’re looking for. Could listen to HOURS of this content, Hannah lol. It’s endlessly fascinating to me all that goes into our clothing and how they work or don’t work for us.
THANK YOU! Her poor rayon shirt needs to pay attention to your tip! Everyone has gotten so lazy about garment care. Everyone needs a can of spray starch and Scothguard!
@@anamauru I really do recommend looking up different ways to starch clothing as there are things to be considered, however for a quick reply, I just use a light spray starch. I concentrate on the cuffs,hems ,and the plackets on a button down shirt, and the waistband, zipper, cuffs, and possibly pleats of pants. Depending on how I want the item to look, I may also do a very light misting of the starch over the entire item. It’s not recommended for wool, but I do find I can use it on wool blends but I always test it on a spot you won’t see first. I personally only use a light starch. Some people prefer a heavier starch on their cuffs and collars. I prefer the light handed approach as it doesn’t build up on the item, keeps it breathable, and remains soft enough to be comfortable against the skin. I usually put the shirt on a hanger, hold it up and just mist the item with the spray if I want the whole thing starched or simply direct the spray towards the collar and hem. Let it settle in for about 30 seconds and then iron as usual. I like using it on my white t shirts and button up shirts because it also acts as a bit of a stain guard as well. It also helps protect the fibres of the collars and cuffs. I personally do not use it every time I launder the items, but that’s personal. I just use it when I find the collars and hems getting floppy and sloppy looking.
Hannah is absolutely right about quality fabrics. I bought a Whistles short sleeved t shirt in a sale. Even at less than half price, it was still more expensive than a lot of other t shirts. However, that t shirt still looks great, the colour is still bright, no pilling, still in perfect shape. I've had it for years, and it has been worn and washed sooo many times, I couldn't guesstimate a number. I almost wish it would wear out !!
Something I'm really missing from this video is an appreciation of individual bodies and skin tones. Stiff fabrics do not look more polished on everyone, and I suspect they look better on Hannah because her bone structure can handle them. A t-shirt and jeans combo will never, ever look polished on me because of the softness of my silhouette (even when underweight, and this is even more pronounced now that I am slightly overweight). While there are some good tips here, I have found systems like colour analysis and kibbe (self-analysis only) to be a gamechanger in helping me look more put together by honouring my individual body.
Yeah, if she had marked this as how she feels polished because these are her colors and shapes and what makes her carry it differently, it might’ve made more sense. I need contrast to feel polished. Different textures, colors, fits and even fabric weights all lend to this. A drapy silk knit top with structured pants or a stiffer tailored blouse with a flowy palazzo works for me. Finding the right styles for you and your proportions,along with the colors that make you feel most elevated, are pretty subjective.
So much this! I was watching this like girl every time I try a highly structured garment my curves destroy the structured look and make me look lumpy, boxy, and unkempt.
Yes - I just posted the same thing. Doesn’t matter how high-quality a sweater is if it’s a classic oversized crewneck - as a Kibbe SD I’ll look sloppy.
I’m an alternative type gal and these rules still apply. Caring for your clothes is so important too, stop killing everything in the dryer lol. Also, get a clothes shaver, never toss an item because of a few pills.
As a custom garment maker of 20 years experience, here's a few things I want to touch on. Thin sweaters are not inherently bad. It's a matter of how many ply of yarn is used in making the sweater. Most women's sweaters use 1 ply yarn. That leads to the garment losing its shape, pilling and wearing through at the elbows. Men's sweaters are usually made with 2 or 3 ply yarns. Those weights of yarn hold their shape and wear longer. So look for sweaters made with 2 or 3 ply yarns. A very important thing to look for when clothes shopping is to check if the garment is cut on the straight grain of the fabric. Puckered hems, seams that don't lie flat and odd gapping at shoulders and necklines are obvious telltale clues. Even being a 1/4" off grain can ruin the cut of a garment. About rayon. It can be a lovely substitute for silk. It's breathable and less expensive but it does wrinkle more. Again, it's about ply of yarn. I own some 1940s examples of rayon blouses that hold their shape well, but the detail to notice is the fabric has thicker yarn plys than most blouses made today. If you do find a rayon garment you can't live without, consider using spray starch and a warm iron and give it a good pressing. It will give a stiffer hand to the fabric and less wrinkles. And remember to iron a garment inside out when using spray starch (except for collar and cuffs) and use a lower heat setting to avoid scorch marks.
Yes to all that! And use a thin pressing cloth over rayon. A cotton thin fabric like some kitchen towels, or cut up an old cotton pillowcase. Just white or beige.
good question. Most of the time the shop employee wouldnt know either......cant hurt to ask though? It s alao a matter of learning how to feel with your fingers, and learning to see how fabrics drape. This takes some time and practise. Also holding fabric up against a light source and inspect from up close might give worthy information: if it shines through a lot, it might be of inferior quality. Good quality clothes in general have fine and yet dense weft or knit..@@dvdh4856
Thick hems are something I always look for, it just feels sooo much more polished and sophisticated somehow. Also, how amazing is Rajiv Surendra's channel??? I love hearing my favorite youtubers mentions my other favorite youtubers
I LOVE your content... but I gotta say, color really depends on what will look good on each person. I've been learning a lot about color analysis, and it BLEW my mind when I learned that my best colors are cool, soft, and muted!! I used to go for the bold colors and had no idea why they didn't look good on me. But I am absolutely GLOWING in colors you dislike (the teal tank, for example). I don't know if you have ever gotten a professional analysis done, but it will totally rock your world once you do. And when you learn more about color analysis, you will understand why some of these "dingy, catalogue colors" are on the market haha. I used to think they were so basic and boring too... so I avoided them... turns out my color season is a "soft summer" and I NEED these colors to look my best because they don't overwhelm or overpower my features/body. Just wanted to share that since your content is excellent and you have so much to teach! This might be an area you can explore and then teach more about in the future. Keep the awesome content coming, thank you!!
Color depends on the quality of the fabric. It is not a question of whether a color is muted it is whether the color is clear. A lot of colors, even bright colors are not distinct, wishy washy and almost have a gray to them. I guess dingy is the word for it!
@@lilys4960 The 'soft summer' color type people actually look best in colors with gray tinge (soft, muted colors). Like @TheEnglishCoach, I too look best in these ''dingy'' grayish colors, and that applies to both clothing and makeup. They make my skin, hair and eye colors look glowing because the undertones resonate with each other beautifully.
Totally agree! I'm soft summer, my hair is a golden grey, ayes blue grey. With washed teal combined, neutral amd warm greys, off-whites but not cream, grey heather, grey pink.... They make my hair and skin glow in gold, my eyes sparkle. Hard whites, magenta and blue, make my lool greyish yellow and sick.
My grandmother was a professional dressmaker. She taught me how to see the difference between "fast fashion" poorly made clothes and quality made clothes. She made most of my clothes from high school and college. This education has made me a "shopping snob" especially when money was tight. However, I've always collected classic styles and watched my weight to avoid "size creep." When I want somenthing special and can't find it ANYWHERE...I make it myself!
My grandmother did the exact same thing with me. I knew every fabric type and those combinations fast. My grandmother was s professional tailor and seamstress full time day job. How she had time to cloth 3 generations of children and grandchildren and great grandchildren I don't know. Miss her so much.
Having well-fitting undergarments is critical. I had a professional fitting in a shop that exclusively sold women's undergarments; my clothes draped better, skimmed instead of clinging, and enhanced my silhouette. I learned that one bra cannot be all things to all my clothes. Having different styles of bras for different fabrics and cuts is a game-changer for me.
Yes! I make sure to have a variety of bra styles and even with underwear I like to have different rises. Plus material makes a huggggge difference. I used to have pantyline showing thru my trousers until I bought high waist Spanx-like underpants (but not actually Spanx because I wanted to be comfortable) and it smoothed out the pantyline problem
I think one thing that Hannah didn't mention and, to me, is super important because it makes or breaks the outfit is the choice of shoes. It's interesting how the same clothes can pass totally different vibes with different accessories, shoes and bags. Not that this was the intent of the video, which is super helpful btw, but if you're still struggling with the outfit, maybe look into these categories before buying more "polished" clothes.
You are right about the shoes. When they make a shoe other than a sneaker that's comfortable and sturdy, then I will wear it. I wear pants most of the time because I need to wear flat, almond or round toe shoes with a reasonable heel that's stable. Even when I was 20 I couldn't wear anything over 3". I got rid of all of my high heel shoes and replaced them with low heel mules.
Oh my god. Never have you been so wrong about colour, Hannah 😂 All of these shades of blue and green and mauve look fantastic on us cooler people! Meanwhile bricky-"nudes" look ultra garish. I can see where it comes from - your colour palette is well suited to the warmer tones and looks really elevated in them. But really not everyone does
Louder for those in the back. She’s usually so good about pointing out that might be the case and she does highlight that it is her opinion but I’m East Indian, cool olive, with dark hair and eyes, and those not quite whites and pale blues look awesome on me, especially when I’m more golden in the summer. Robin’s egg blue (Tiffany’s) is killer. Any faded color looks crap on me because of my darker coloring except for charcoal, and most require some black or gray to not stand out. All of those beige, rusty neutrals also look crap, unless they are my skin color exactly.
THISSSS. Garments with a touch of grey/mutedness to them are perfect for my skin tone whereas the more intense or completely pastel tones make me look ill lol
100% agree! The teal she used in the example could look (and does on me) so much more polished and better than a bright white or a black shirt since I have lower contrasts in my complexion and leaning towards the cooler side. So black and white are really not for everyone, but as with everything, if you love it - wear it! Looking polished is also about feeling confident in what you’re wearing, regardless of colour and intensity.
I love how Hannah talks about garment, it's clear she knows what she's talking about, and the most important thing, it's really easy to take actual useful takeaways! There are so many things to look for, but it does make a difference. Another thing I want to add against acrylic for knitwear, from my experience: it'll stink so bad the moment you sweat in them (an since they are not breathable fabric, yikes 😬).
Also, the compounds that cause body odor are fatty-acid-based, they bond permanently with the oil-based plastic yarn. And once that happens, no amount of washing, soaking or other treatments will EVER get the smell out of synthetics unless they are performance wear specifically engineered to fight BO (and sometimes not even then), because the stank has now become one with the yarn. This is also why a thrifted sweater can be fine in the store, yet once you wear it for a while it starts to whiff strongly of the previous owner(s) B.O. - the yarn has been enstankified and in contact with your body heat is now acting like a cursed heat-activated room freshener.
One of the things that helps me here is our local seamstress. I spend the few dollars and have her restitch the garment, and in some cases add a lining.
I definitely agree with the fewer details thing. I wear solid shirts a lot, and people always think I am dressed pretty formally. But one thing I want to add is getting your clothes tailored to you. The thicker fabrics you describe tend not to be as stretchy, and I can never get the fit I want with them, but they are perfect for tailoring in a way that thinner fabrics are not. I am not very concerned with my wardrobe, but the few pieces I have had this done with give me so much more confidence. I am also way happier with them.
Great points here Hannah. I like that you removed the cost factor when discussing quality - so often quality is equated with expensive, which is not always (or even usually) the case! I love that you linked to Rajiv! His channel is wonderful.
Excellent presentation. As a child, we did all of our school clothes shopping at Good Will stores. Mom taught us all of the things you laid out, plus the scrunch test. You grab a handful of the garment and scrunch it hard. If it wrinkles and stays that way, you know to stay away. Those thin t shirts work well under sweaters, etc. to catch your smells and skin cells and they CAN go in the dryer and then you don't have to wash the great stuff as often. (Lastly, a mini pad cut in half will stick to an underarm of a garment and also catch smells. Just never let it show. But that would apply more to a care of clothing video.) Well done! This is a video I am definitely sharing!
@@LindalindaliI recently bought a steamer and it's a game changer. It's not quite as fast as an iron but works better for frilly tops with ruffles that can't be ironed. Oddly enough steaming feels easier than ironing even though sometimes it takes longer (depending on the material//)
I don’t agree about the colors and my citation is color theory. Colors are relative to the person wearing them including the models you show. Muted colors look good on people who naturally have low saturation in their coloration I.e. soft autumn. We can’t all pull off bold colors it washes us out. That soft teal is my best color vs the bright ones make me look tired or lost in the color. Same with bright white and black it washes most people out because winter season people aren’t as common as autumn in America for example which is why our foundations lean warm vs in Asian countries they have more neutral cool tones. Off white and charcoal looks better on most people. People having high contrast to pull off these bold colors is not common.
You are right. Black does not suit anyone as good as it does the 'winters'. Navy is a better option. Also, color is very individual thing and we really should stop labeling certain colors as 'elegant' or 'classy' while others 'urban' or 'artsy'. All colors will elevate or kill the look, depending on who's wearing them.
If you dislike ironing, invest in a steamer! Steamers are a game changer to get your clothes looking good again after washing. I also agree with your advice about avoiding dryers, I avoid using the dryer for just about everything except towels.
Thank you so much! I feel like you’ve created a support group for all of us who have spent a lifetime trying so hard, and in some cases spending a lot of money, to figure out how to dress (and shop) properly. Your videos demystifying this process are life-changing.
My natural fiber/organic cotton go-to company is Pact. I started buying from them once I realized polyester was making me itchy! It’s difficult to find athletic wear without polyester, but in general I’m not sad to have gotten rid of all of it. I have to disagree on color-it seems so subjective, how a color will read on each individual person. That teal, for example, could look very bold on someone with very soft color features, while the bold teal would look overpowering, for example.
Amendment-having watched more of the video and looking back over your “this, not that” colors, I am quite willing to back track on my color statement-I think you’ve illustrated your point well. :-)
Yes!! Pact is my favorite, I have garments in every category from them. The clothing is just sooo lovely, and even my items from years ago still look new.
I’ve only gotten underwear from past but every single pair fell apart in less than 6 months. Even the ones they sent to replace the first pack I had gotten. They seemed so poorly made for such a price. It’s kept me from wanting to try anything else from the brand. Maybe I’ll revisit after seeing some of these positive experiences.
@@jilliancampbell6742 I have their undies too. I’ve had them over a year and only one pair (my favorite one ) has gotten a hole. I don’t like their undies bc it’s not enough bum coverage; and some pairs the leg was too tight which was weird. Knickey has some with better coverage but their undies are hit and miss. Some are going strong iver a year, and others have gotten holes or the elastic is fraying. So expensive too. So still looking for real fullll coverage undies that won’t fall apart after a few months …
I love the topic of this video and how you broke it down. While clothing made of thicker fabrics and knits keep their structure more easily, I tend to avoid them as they’re generally not a good match for my body type. Instead, I look for a tight weave on the fabric or knit. This way I get a piece of clothing that can maintain its structure while also getting a curve-loving drape and flow without the droop.
love this comment! Yes thickness is not quite the word I would equate with sturdiness, I think you're right about tight weave. When I was a beginner at sewing I would always fall into the trap of choosing too thick fabric for the project thinking thick= quality but would end up with garments that had not te right drape,ad bulky seems and looked awkward etc. (probably not often a problem in store bought clothes ). But yes some very thin but high quality fabrics can make absolutely smooth flowy gorgeous looking garments!
Absolutely! For example if you choose woven cotton of “tana lawn” quality, it is tight, robust, thin, not see-through, will not crease easily etc This is the quality that Liberty fabrics use.
11:37 I just started clapping at that flawless comparison of three attempts at "yellow". You two are replacing whole fashion magazines over here with your sharp observations. Obsessed. Leave it to artists to finally articulate this!! 👏🏽👏🏽
I really like viscose as a fabric even though it is indeed wrinkly. In the hot, summer nights, going out in a lightweight viscose dress is bliss. Also, I discovered another fabric that I like - modal . I hope it`s the same in english, it has a certain drapey-ness and it doesn`t crease. You can find t-shirts with modal blend or dresses, try to find one in a store, it may be worth it! ( however I don`t know how it will work in dryer, in Europe it`s not that common to have dryers). Also, exactly as Hannah mentioned, avoid acrylic sweaters, they`re the worst, man. After 3 washes they lose structure, start to electrify once put on ( they stick to your hair, making it fuzzy), etc.
I also like viscose in these contexts, even though everything she said about it is indeed true and it has the most annoying wrinkles lol I will probably phase it out in future purchases. Where I live at the moment is also really hot but I do like a little cardigan to protect me from the AC, so I also go for thinner knits made from cotton and viscose and wool isn't really a great idea. But nobody deserves acrylic, it feels so horrible while you are wearing it.
I absolutely love viscose fabrics, to be honest (especially Lyocell/Tencel as they tend to be of high quality). They're great to wear in warm weather and especially great in lingerie or homewear. Your point still stands, though. If the fabric is poorly made, this is a nightmare. And even high quality viscose fabric has to be taken care for properly. Hand wash or "hand wash"program on the machine using laundry bags (is this the right word?). No dryer, no sunlight, wovens ideally dried flat or on a hanger. You need to take extra care when sewing with viscose (for all the reasons you mentioned) and for garments like blouses a little extra structure usually is a good idea. Also: ironing. I totally understand everyone who does not want to invest the time in this. But I have made some garments from viscose wovens, knits and yarns (self knitted) that I absolutely adore and have gotten many compliments for. They also hold up well with the right care. Thick viscose Jersey is my favorite in terms of being low maintenance and having great drape.
I really like the carefully chosen examples/photos that you show. They are not only on-point, cohesive and attractive but also diverse and inclusive. I’m over 60 and appreciate the broad audience you consider in your videos. Well done!
Some people are internally motivated and want to wear what they want, but the Kibbe system, when applied generally, not strictly, is AMAZING. It helps to know what silhouettes to wear based on your body shape and height to avoid looking overgrown (if tall or wearing something too small), drowning in fabric (if short or curvy wearing something shapeless), too messy (if structured styles suit you better than relaxed looks), or too stiff (if relaxed styles suit you better than structured looks). TBH, depending on a person's shape, a basic tee will need to be tailored to give waist definition.
@ifetayodavidson-cade5613 Agree. Kibbe was game changer. I found Aly Art on YT and she, using Kibbe, allowed me to see why I didn’t project well via clothing choices: I wanted to be “feminine” but drapey fabric and small patterns didn’t cut it. Now in more structured, linear, less flounce type things, I project the look I want + look and feel better in my wardrobe. [Back in the day, Mom, Sis, and I read Carole Jackson’s color book and learning that I was a Winter, informed my color choices AND jewelry choices. Could never figure out why gold earrings made me look washed out🤭🌸
KIBBE system if you want to learn what suits YOU...quit falling for hot styles THIS year. Learn if you are a spring, autumn, winter , spring dress in unstructured which category eg warm spring, clear spring, light spring etc..These 2 systems are what you need to look like YOU Then buy for your lIfestyle inside those systems. I learned as a Theatrical Romantic to always emphasize my waist...never oversize floppy anything. Even my loungewear is in my colors and a little less oversize than is usual comfy yes, sloppily no. Take your best neutrals to build your foundation wardrobe. Then add particular versions of touches of your eye,,hair colors etc...what suits you ...eg NO to bright white or black on me. Ivory and navy are my best neutral extemes. I always look upscale when I wear them in styles,for my body. As a former sewer construction is key too. And yes to thrifting classic STYLES ALL my Ralph Lauren is vintage.
There are two other things that make all the difference. One is fit--fit is the difference between looking nice and stopping traffic, and it can definitely be the difference between level three and level four. The other is foundations. If you're wearing a bra or binder that doesn't fit right, or you're wearing bottoms that aren't right for the garment, your clothes aren't going to look good. Bra wearers are going to want a structured bra for level four outfits, and there should be absolutely no visible undergarments or lines.
Absolutely agree. I am breastfeeding and can only wear nursing bras with no underwire. I have a large bust anyway, so to get enough support I layer a nursing tank top with the bra. No matter what outfit I put on, I look frumpy right now.
Really enjoying your fashion content. It's different from others' content and just always delivered in an intelligent, thoughtful way besides the typical take on "what's in/out this season." I appreciate the intentionality aspect behind the process.
I love that you included this list of shops that make clothes like this and specified whether they carry extended sizes. One of the biggest challenges as a larger person trying to find good clothes is that so few higher end shops sell our sizes. The ones that are easier to find sell clothes in fabrics that are really uncomfortable and look frumpy after a few wears. It's hard to break the fast fashion habit when slow fashion has so little to offer. It's beyond helpful to have a few places to start with! Thanks!
This was excellent. I’m on a mission to slowly replace the junk in my closet with fewer high quality garments mostly made from natural fibers. It’s a struggle & requires me to exercise my patience muscle. Also I’ve realized I have to actually go to the physical store & try things on. 😒
Acrylic sweaters will stay nicer looking if you keep them out of the dryer. Just lay them flat to dry. The heat from the dryer "melts" the acrylic fibers in the yarn, then the tumbling action stretches out those melted fibers. Longtime crocheter here. When I make a blanket for someone, it uses a ton of yarn. Acrylic is inexpensive. I tell people to keep that blanket out of the dryer and it'll last forever.
Hannah, I've been thinking about this for a while: I simply cannot express how seen I feel when, in these fashion videos, you include reference photos with models and examples that are not just straight-sized people. And to that point: seeing people of all gender expressions, with ranging ages and levels of disability, and who are well-rounded in skin tone representation also makes my heart shine. I always look forward to these fashion videos, even if I don't think the content is pertinent to my own style, because they are so well crafted and seeing similar versions of myself in your examples ends up inspiring me in the end. :)
Hey, I'm a knitter and I'm not really sure why this popped up in my feed. I would like to bring up the idea of "steam blocking" for your delicate blouse you mention at 6:20. I'm sure that you can look up how to do it, but the basic idea is for hand made garments you want to basically set their shape prior to wearing or gifting. The most extreme example of that is blocking out lace, since you want to tell all the lace to be open and pretty. It can be done with solid pieces too though. Find a good place to lay out your garment where you can actually pin it into a shape. Then starting at the seams at the top of the garment, pin it with your basic measurements in mind, starting from the center with the button band and working down and out. When It's all pinned, blast it with the steam from your iron or steamer and let it dry while still pinned. That works really well for all buttoned garments. It will keep the shape really well until you wash it. Then you can do the same thing again, or try your hand at wet blocking and skip the steam. Tailor measuring tapes help!
As per usual, I love your insightful commentary as much as I love your look. Sadly, not all of us have such bold coloring. Your principles on level 4 color choices are greatly informed by your own coloring as well as your uniquely artful aesthetic perspective, as it should. But those color principles completely deny the existence of Summers who have a muted, light, cool color palette. All of those powdered down pinks, blues, cool greens, greys, and purples are exquisite on Summers, ethereal even. I’m a Spring so I get to enjoy all of the dopamine dressing warm brights but often feel less than chic in certain environments where everyone is in white, black, taupe, grey, or navy. It’s tough all around, but I so appreciate all of your contributions to this important conversation. Loving the fact that your top choices for level 4 fabrics are the most sustainable! I’m not as much of a makeup person as you are, probably because I have almost no contrast in my face and also because I wore makeup from a young age in dance & theatre. Growing up in the eighties helped me burn through a lot of my makeup bandwidth & now I’m just trying to develop some winsome looks… Thanks for encouraging great skincare, choiceful spending, makeup/wardrobe boundaries AND playtime. This is me formally requesting more wardrobe content… you know!
I would love to see a video in which Hannah either has a professional color analysis, or talks about the 4-season or 12-season color theory and how it relates to her own styles. The system has a habit of putting people in boxes, but it opens up a lot of possibilities for people.
@@marycansing I hear you, and obviously I find the (4 season) rendition helpful, but it’s subjective no matter how you slice it. I did not need my colors done to know that I look like I’m dying in black or white… When I finally got mine done, the first gal saw my blonde hair & blue eyes and decided I was a Summer before she draped me at all, I suspect, because it’s pretty obvious that my flaws are GLARING when surrounded by cool toned. Years later, an experienced pro did mine and I saw for myself that I was clearly a Spring. It helps me NOT buy most things produced for the mass market (Springs are 8% of the world). It also helps me find great deals in Clearance and on Sale because people are so terrified of Orange, Lime, etc. That said, Hannah has carefully developed her own sense of color alignment. As an artist, I would never want to change that in another artist. (Someone came into my Urban Bohemian Sunrise living room and suggested I needed something black to ground it, I was so frustrated… I did not spend a year carefully curating EVERY tiny item, wading through oceans of grey scale options, getting a custom mural made, etc. If I wanted my living room to look like everyone else’s I would certainly know what to do… but I’m NOT everyone else, and my opinion is the only one that matters in my home, my wardrobe, & my makeup. God help the fool who tells me everyone looks better in black mascara, I’ve worn it my whole life- thanks. I hope we can all just respect each other’s choices. I wanted my colors done because I struggled to find anything that flattered and my late Mum had brainwashed me against the colors that suited me best. (Because her own mother relegated her to that same palette, which made her covet black/royal blue/purple/scarlet.) Mum was able to pull it off, she had much more contrast (like HLP), but those colors (which I have worn endlessly in theatre) just swallow me whole. At the end of the day, it’s a personal choice.
Great tips! I'd add that undergarments are also incredibly important. As a woman with large breasts, nothing makes me look frumpy faster than a unflatering bra that's too tight or small or doesn't offer the amount of support I need. I say, independent of your cup size, If You want to look more polished ditch the sport bras and invest in a few high quality bras (that You tried on in store preferably).
Yep! Before I had kids, I was sized in a lingerie store (NOT Victoria’s Secret- they do not know what they are doing and will tell you the closest size they have, not your actual size). It was life changing. For the first time, I could be supported and feel like I was wearing nothing. No straps digging in, no cup-adjusting push up, no wiggling back into place 😂 Three kids later, and it’s a struggle. I always feel frumpy because I can’t wear underwire while breastfeeding. Undergarments make a BIG difference!
Agree, was shocked when a friend asked for help bra shopping and was shocked to hear she hadn’t purchased new bras in five or more years. That explained a lot to me.
Hi Hanna! Just wanted to say I really appreciate (in both meanings of the word) the recent improvements in production quality. I'm a newer subscriber, but I've been binging your full history of videos, so I am in a place to say that the quality of your content has been impressive through out and I love that your production has risen to support it! I also just love your eloquence. The way you put words together to so accurately illuminates a nuanced thought is beautiful.
I’ve been checking labels for years and had started to think I had unreasonable standards because almost nothing met them. I’m glad I’ve stumbled into this type of content, for the education *and* the validation.
I really love the diversity represented in the examples you show in your fashion videos. Varying gender expression, body types, people with prosthetics, etc. Love to see it!
Personally my favourite material is viscose for summery dresses. Its so soft and it breaths well. Something I find interesting is the wrinkling that she mentions. Because my modern viscose dresses do wrinkle quite easily (I find they get more wrinkly if its humid and hot). However I’ve also got a number of vintage 100% viscose dresses and jumpsuits from the 1940-1960s and those dont wrinkle nearly as easily. Ive worn one of my more dressy viscose vintage jumpsuits to two weddings and it stayed pretty much wrinkle free for the whole day.
The only disagreement I might pose here is to do with color - my opinion is that it really depends on the person and what colors work best for them as individuals. Some people really do look better in those mid-intensity colors, or softer colors whether they're neutrals or not! So from that perspective, if your fabric and construction quality are on point, maybe that particular color (or version of that color) doesn't suit you. We're all made up of different colors like a painting palette, so some colors will create harmony with you and others won't.
That was my only part I disagreed with too. Kind of. I see the color points of the video and am thinking on them. But am also a big fan of personal color analysis. Maybe especially Caygill cause that's about the very specific individual even beyond if they fit into one of the say 12 season categories. 🙂 So for example bright white, black, or bold colors will definitely not suit some people very authentically well (me included as I resonate with Soft Autumn or an area between or dipping into both Soft Autumn and Soft Summer). Plus everyone has their different most flattering versions of neutrals in my experience.🙂 And also in my experience the level of structure vs. flow that is ideal can vary by individual. I think done well flowy can look very polished. However I love this video and overall it makes much sense to me.
Rayon lover here, lol! I do actually think it is somewhat body type dependent what fabrics suit you. And lifestyle/preference dependent, as you’ve said! I am also a natural fibers girlie, but to my surprise as a mom of small children have recently discovered a love of nylon and rayon! I love silk but it’s too high maintenance with kids and rayon gives me the drapiness. That said, I only wear it in dresses, I think it’d be less satisfying in a top and a definite no go for pants. Linen has been trending for the past couple of years and I think it is so beautiful and a “forever fabric” but hard to wear for those who are short and curvy-it doesn’t really mold to the body, which I think makes it more flattering on those who have the size (whether in height or in relative straighter lines within their frame) to carry it off. I tend to look at things through a Kibbe and color analysis lens so I am often over here being like, look at Hannah perfecting how to be a soft dramatic autumn💃👩🍳🤌🎉
One thing to always look at is the tightness of the weave or knit. Tighter weaves always last longer especially for linen. A lot of cheap linen is loosely woven. Some fine knits lasts really well because they have “tighter” knit stitches and are also made sturdier as they are “double knit” (which means that the knitting machine making the cardigan/jumper knitted two knit layers instead of one you can tell this by the stitches looking the same on both the right and the wrong side). What to avoid is a sloppier knit stitches and almost see through knitwear. I thrifted a cashmere cardigan like that and whilst it’s lovely & soft the see through look doesn’t suit the style.
Agree with the opinions about color. I’m pale with red hair and freckles; never liked prints as I already have enough going on. And so many of those colors you mentioned look hideous on me. Supersaturated is something I have to be careful with; likewise, too pale can wash me out. IMO, color is the most personal and individual selection to which people readily respond. Go with your gut.
So subjective! I’m also pale with red hair and freckles and I looove pattern and bold colours. I feel like I can get away with it because I am already a lot. It’s embracing my uniqueness. And yes, pale things really wash us out. I also find anything that is a bit muddy is better - a slightly dirty blue or pink is much better than a clean blue or pink
Also a pale skin redhead with freckles. But now I am older and my hair is very blonde heading toward white. I find that there is a lot to color advice that doesn’t quite fit - when redheads are discussed, they are Julia Roberts redheads - not the same as me. I have friends that look so classy in their neutrals, blacks, and whites, but their colors just don’t work for me.
Yes! I have learned they will label them cotton but you have to dive into the details to find they are a crummy blend, and not significantly cheaper at that.
I knit my own sweaters, cardis and accessories and while it would be way cheaper/quicker to buy latest trend I know that my bespoke 100% wool knitweare will be timeless, warm and with great structure. Repurposing and adjusting thrift store finds is also way to go!
One thing to combat the hanger versus home transformation, thrift. I love silk, wool, and cotton, as well as tech wear (gym rat) with a tailored vibe but all of that tends towards the expensive, meaning I’ll never wear it leaving it wrapped in it’s pretty package until it molders. I have several 100% silk tees and basics, as well as linen, etc., which I felt comfortable wearing while holding my cat and dog, tossing in the washing machine and drying, because they weren’t expensive, and they had probably already had that treatment. It makes me feel less precious and I can still opt for brands that do the most.
I think the print/pattern will also greatly effect the casualness of a garment. I have a love/hate relationship with rayon. I love the drape, but yes yes and yes to everything else you said about rayon. Being 5’9” I hang dry almost everything so that arms, leg length, etc doesn’t shrink and ruin the length of the garment. That’s part of why my clothes last forever.
This!!!! I found that I have to buy things with boning, ridges, and very *clear* structure to look polished because I was continually getting aggravated with trying to look more elevated and I wasn’t. Your commentary is always so spot on!
I have a skin/autoimmune condition that gives me flare-ups when my clothes are tight, so I can't wear anything figure-hugging other than very soft, thin leggings. Anything else is loose fitting, flowy , smooth etc - and this can go one of two ways: jogging pants/ athleisure or flowy linen pants and oversized silk shirts and cashmere throws, all second hand. I chose option two and it feels fabulous.
Rayon/viscose come in so many woven qualities. I had one button up oversize shirt I bought when I was like 15 years old. 100% rayon, did not wrinkle like the very cheap ones even if it was thin. I wore it regularly for over 20 years!! At the end it was not polished casual, ha ha, but it was for most of that time. Also there is viscose twill, a heavier weight woven that in my opinion always looks polished. And linen viscose mixes I just love.
Friends have told me that I nail that effortlessly stylish yet casual and I never really understood why or how. But, after watching this I understand that my mom raised me to look for these elements. She is a fabulous seamstress, and would always point out low quality fabrics, cuts and structure. I never knew! I buy all my stuff second hand but look elevated, because I can spot high quality clothes.
Get out of my head! I literally thought yesterday “I need to go back and rewatch Hannah’s video to polish casual clothing” and then your follow up arrived! Thank you so much. I've always found fashion hit and miss and just assumed I didn't have that magic fashion gene to get it. Thank you! Now I know why I have so much better luck with thrifted clothing looking better on me ❤
I came from fourth generation Italian tailors and grew up playing with scraps of fabrics at my parents shop. Unfortunately I never learned to use a sewing machine but I spent enough time around all of the fabrics to be able to spot quality. My favorite trick while perusing the thrift store aisles is to scan the racks solely for fabric quality and then select pieces from there based on color, cut and size. There were so many helpful things in your video, I actually purchased a t shirt at a boutique last week that was a great quality black casual tee. When I put it on I was disappointed at how frumpy it looked! It definitely was loungewear casual as opposed to polished casual and watching your video helped me understand it was the stretched out pocket that really diminished the look. ❤️
Your fashion content is always so inspiring. Even though I make my own clothes instead of buying them these days, your insight of colour and technique is very useful and will definitely apply it in my garment sewing going forward. ❤
I enjoy these thoughtful analytical videos, but some of these points are highly subjective (which is fine, just something to note). Personally I love drapey fabrics and I think they can look elegant and 'Level 4' - for e.g. Sezane does a good job of relaxed + polished using drapier fabrics and silhouettes. It's a matter of taste, and lots of other elements, like fit, morphology, grooming, accessorising, etc. There's a lot of viscose/rayon bashing on the internet, but the thing is there is an enormous range of quality when it comes to any fibre: natural, man-made or semi-synthetic. You can get a 100% cotton shirt that's made of fabric that is horrible quality and you can get one that is delightful. The same is true of viscose/rayon. I've experienced viscose that shrinks and wrinkles badly as well as viscose that never needs to be ironed and always looks and feels great.
It's no matter how well clothes are done, what cut they are or color if fabric is not good quality. But even a good quality of fabric don't save a person from looking frumpy if clothing is wrong size and person has that frumpy outlook and posture. Models always look good with everything they wear for a reason.
Loved this video, especially where you compare garment constructions. Here are some often overlooked opportunities to look more polished. 1. Sometimes ironing really IS a good idea. (How to iron would be a good video.) 2. Shoes and purses need to be clean and scuff free, touched up color and conditioned leather, shapes supported by cardboard or tissue while in storage. (Accessory care would make a good video.) 3. When shank buttons are surface mounted, they droop. Replace with a flat button that will face forward instead of down. The shank of a button is designed to position the button in front of the fabric that it is fastening. Many manufacturers misuse shank buttons on double breasted jackets and cuffs. Half the buttons facing forward next to half the buttons facing the floor is not a polished look. It is an easy hand sewing fix. 4. Only blue jeans look good faded. Faded black Ts should hit the rag bin. Same goes for stains and holes. 5. Agree with rayon comments but silk may be just as bad. P.S. I love saturated silk colors. 6. Fit. Too-tight clothing looks cheap; be real with who we are at the moment. Too long, too short, etc. Pant lengths would be a good video in the context of cheap to polished. Daisy Dukes, shorts, Bermudas, pedal pushers, capris, ankle length and full length... Getting wide-leg pants right would also make an interesting discussion. Thanks for all that you do. I have implemented some of your color ideas in my own wardrobe. It's been great fun and thought provoking. ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
@@Killjoy_Mel In the context of fit, I intend cheap mean poor quality materials that loose their shape or shrink and no longer fit or hang in a flattering way. I have had bad experiences with rayon losing its shape and no longer fitting. In the context of quality, some fabrics fade, pill or look too transparent and that makes them look cheap. For example, white pants that are thin enough to see the color change or a ridge at the pocket lining look cheaply made. The opposite of cheap would be well made, cut to fit a body without gaps, pulling or unintended folds, and polished looking fabric that is not worn or faded and hangs well.
This is so helpful! I will definitely keep an eye out for these ideas when I’m buying basics. I would like to push back slightly on rayon. Vintage rayon can be the most delightful fabric to wear. It was originally made as a silk replacement - so it was HEAVY. Vintage rayon has so much body, it’s weighty and absolutely delicious and I highly recommend the experience of wearing it if you have the opportunity. However! Around the rise of fast fashion, (think late 80s and beyond) rayon fabrics were made thinner and thinner and thereby cheaper and cheaper. Nowadays, most are genuinely awful and hold up like milk outside on a hot day. But I still think you can apply the rule of holding a rayon garment in store and feeling it’s weight and deciding if that would last. I would especially recommend looking into rayon when thrifting and doing this. If you can find an older piece you can absolutely find a garment that will wear and hold up beautifully. But other than that Hannah, you and I are in complete concordance!
Thanks for this, Hannah - and this whole series! I put on a LOT of weight after Covid and have been really struggling to feel polished as a result. I keep humoring the lie that I won't look put together or chic until I'm ~thin and clothes fit me a certain way again, which is just a terrible way to think and feel. Your focus on materials and your use of all different kinds of models as references really helps me challenge that line of thought. Looking forward to a future materials video like you mentioned! You're the best.
I put a lot of weight as well but after beating myself for a long time I am embracing the fact that CLOTHING SHOULD FIT MY BODY and not the other way around. If I loose weight, great , but in the mean time I have to have a few well made clothes in my size that flatter me. Period. Wishing you the best.❤
There's a reason Americans are always wanting to dress like the French. Americans recognize there's something special about the way they dress and are always trying to imitate it, but don't usually quite hit the mark. Americans are bombarded with cheap tacky clothing in a way the Europeans aren't. The same way Americans are marketed cheap low quality food in a way they aren't. This video is superb, once people start learning about how quality affects our clothing (and food and every aspect of life really), the companies won't be able to push low quality on people because everyone will be educated to make better choices. The endless haul videos out there are setting us backwards though, which is unfortunate.
Amazing video. I could not agree more on natural fiber. The only fabric I have is cotton, linen, wool, tencel and couple nylon leggings. No other fabrics at all and I absolutely happy with performance of these. Not a single clothing item goes in the dryer and wash always cold.
I also have to say that knowing your body type makes such a big difference. For instance, once I realized that I’m a Soft Dramatic in the Kibbe system, I look so much better in a t-shirt and jeans that supports my lines than I ever did before, no matter how high-quality my pieces were.
It's so helpful to shop in person instead of online so you can FEEL the fabric. Almost always disappointed by quality of online purchases unless I already know the brand very well.
Thank you for a great video! One thing beside fabric etc that I find influences the level of sloppiness is shoes. Your shoe choice can really change the mood of an outfit.
Care of the clothes you own and buy is probably the most important thing. I go back to lines that I trust because I know how to care for them. I have tissue cashmere that have lasted for decades. I wear them and air them several times before I wash them and I hand wash my delicates and block them. I’ve had worse luck shopping for all out casual clothes. I guess my polished casual clothes age out and then they become my casual clothes.
I love the fact that you talked about the colors. It is indeed a big thing to pay attention to. And, I love that your comments are all about the opinions of others about it too, it shows how diverse we are as a company. And all of us are still find your videos and content interesting.
I really loved this video. Please do more like it! I love how specific it is and how you showed concrete examples. I just started sewing as a hobby and now i'm much more aware of all those small details.
I know this is an older video, but I just discovered your channel, and this series on fashion and garment selection has been THE MOST HELPFUL content I've found on the subject. I'm well on my way to decluttering my bloated closet and carefully selecting well-made, elevated basics (some from brands like Cos and Ayr.) Thank you, thank you.
Great video Hannah! I feel like we are not “taught” material awareness at all - I have hypohydrosis and wearing anything with polyester is genuinely a horrible experience as my skin cannot breathe and I feel really hot but also really cold when it is cold. And it took me so long to realise that it not only doesn’t usually look good and it also doesn’t serve me! I agree in terms of creasing however I must say for people that commute/travel viscose can be really smart and reliable - but as you said you have to be really careful with it or balance it out with different materials - i.e it being mixed with cotton or linen.
I too hang all my casuals. I have some items I dry completely, like old t-shirts that won’t benefit from hanging. I finally found a Holy Grail black and a white t-shirt. Walmart has these Time and Tru crewneck slub tee with 60 cotton, 40 recycled poly. I hang to dry. I wish they had more colors, but otherwise, these are the best tees for this summer.
Another thing that can help you look polished is tailoring. If there's something easy you can do, such as take up a bottom hem so it hits you in just the right place, it's worth the cost to customize that garment exactly to you. Some alterations are easier than others, though. You have to know what's an easy tailoring task and what's not.
Concise and I agree with many of your points EXCEPT color. My best colors are quite washed out, muted and completely desaturated. I think fabric, cut and construction make a much bigger impact in my case. Drop shoulders and cocoon shapes are terrible on my body (automatic shapeless frumpy look) so knitwear is very difficult to find for a more polished look.
Was thinking similarly. I think bright bold colors can be great in certain contexts and depending on how it's done, but most of the time I think bight yellows, hot pinks, electric blues etc. give an outfit a more casual, playful look rather than polished. It is even easy for these to look garish and too "of-the-moment" for a polished look.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Come on over to the sewing community, everyone. There is a way to opt out of the fashion rat race and get exactly what you want (and what fits) - make your own. Thrift shopping isn’t much of an option in the plus size range, but sewing gives you the power to make what you love in any size. And you get to be free of the trend cycles in cut and color and make what works for you. I got so sick of always settling for the least bad option.
Thank you for this, Jennifer. I may not be ready to sew my own clothes, but I'd like to try altering my thrift finds.
Even those who have the skills to do this may not have the time.
Some drycleaners have staff that can make simple alterations for reasonable prices.
Sewing has its limitations. I used to sew a lot, and even had my own business selling what I made, but commercial patterns are terrible. The pattens always need to be altered to fit properly with the associated pattern making time consuming. Same goes for achieving a polished tailored result that doesn’t scream home made. Don’t get me wrong, I still sew for myself but store bought garments are still needed, unless you don’t need to work outside of home or have caring duties for children or elderly relatives.
@@Orangebicycle7887 Indie sewing patterns have revolutionized home sewing in the past 5-10 years, so there are lots of directions to go in terms of style and fit. And Instagram has a robust sewing community - I even recognize some Instagram sewing folks in Hannah’s fashion slide shows. I never notice anyone looking “homemade”, just fabulous.
Can not stress this enough - STOP checking the brand tag and START checking the fabric label (inside the garment on the side). Yes, Gucci makes clothes that are 100% plastic and sells them for thousands of dollars. Don't be duped.
This! I was just telling someone you have to look at the material.
Exactly, it's all about the marketing. A lot of those big name brands use the same cheap labor and materials as the cheaper brands.
EXACTLY. This is the single most devastating fact that takes all the glamour and fairy dust out of designer brands. We're paying for the name and the social cache that comes with it. Quality and durability doesn't even come into the equation. My skin is sensitive and my wallet isn't bottomless. I've shopped by fabric exclusively for 7 years now and have no regrets.
@@TheGhostofAbigailMills So true. Nothing drapes as well as great fabric.
I check where it's made. I have never had a bad item made in Italy, US or Brazil.
honestly the cheap quality of fabrics and how they look frumpy after a few wears is probably one of the biggest contributors to fast fashion and why we keep craving more clothes (without even knowing it)
Yep it's likely on purpose to keep fast fashion consumerism going 🙁 I'd love if someone made a documentary on fast fashion. Maybe there is one.
I don't know when this happened. I'm just sorting out my last h&m pieces - they are around 15 years old. Nowadays you can't buy there anymore.
As a knitter, I think the thing that makes the biggest different isn't necessarily how thick or thin the yarn itself is, but actually how tightly it's knit. You can have a sweater that's knit in really thick yarn, but if it's knit loosely, it'll still get stretched out faster. And, you can have sweaters that are knit in finer yarn, so the garment isn't as 'thick' or as warm, but if it's knit tightly enough, it'll stand the test of time much more. If you're not a knitter, this might sound complicated! Just do the flop test: hold the garment up vertically. Does it completely flop over your hands? Or does it retain some structure and remain more upright? The more upright it remains, the tighter it's knit, and the better it'll probably keep it's shape over time. Sometimes very thick sweaters are just too warm and they can also be very floppy, which can have the same unpolished effect! Hope the flop test helps :)
Edit: type of fiber makes a big difference too! Alpaca feels lovely and soft but oh boy it can stretch so much and also pill a LOT, epecially if it's a thicker, fluffier yarn.
A tight knit plus yarn that doesn't pill. Those make the BEST garments
What wool is better? Merino?
@@donamariadubois2402there are tons of wool breeds of sheep out there with different technical characteristics, bred for different end products, everything from rug wool to next to skin. merino generally (and there are subgroups within merino) has a reputation for being very soft and having a good elasticity/very crimpy fiber. it’s not necessarily as hard wearing as other wool breeds. shetland wool is used for colorwork knits to make lightweight but very lofty garments that hold stitches together beautifully. jacobs, bluefaced leicester, and other hardy wools are used in sock blends and have more durability to offer. romney wool is popular with handspinners for being user friendly, and though originally bred for rug wool, some breeders raise very soft romney wool. merino is the most commercially available wool in the clothing industry, but if you are getting into fabric construction (weaving, knitting, felting, crochet, etc.) then there is a whole world of options. fibers like mohair(goat) and angora (rabbit) are non sheep wool alternatives and also very luxurious. there is a great book called the Fleece and Fiber Sourcebook which can give a more thorough answer to your question. I personally am enthusiastic about a layer system with cashmere and yak wool, and superfine merino for next to skin, and more rustic rugged wool for outerwear sweaters. from a spinner/knitter who raises Icelandic sheep. (Icelandic wool is also awesome, but dual coated so that’s another layer of complexity). one of the thing that varies hugely in wool is crimp size: there are long wools with loose curls and locks up to 12” long (mohair, teaswater, icelandics) and there are breeds with short downy fibers that are elastic, and work better in a woolen, lofty, spacious, springy yarn (babydoll southdown, fresian, superfine shetland). this is a generalization, the question you pose has a whole world of study behind it, and I have a limited perspective as well as limited space to answer here. depending on what you are searching for, what use you want to put the wool to, there is a breed for that. it wont hurt to get more specific, in terms of “does it exist” it just might get difficult to find ready to wear garments at that level.
Are you sure that your pilling culprit was Alpaca? I have found that cashmere pills really bad, way worse than alpaca. I love knitting with alpaca yarn, but it sure isn't for anything that is going to stay in a shape.
That's a good observation about tightness of the knit. That may help counteract sloppy wool handling, too - which just comes along with mass producing a variable product. You can't see manufacturing choices in the end product right away.
Different wool animal breeds have different staple length - the length of the shorn wool. And the wool varies widely between breeds, also age, health, and honestly the part of the animal. A higher quality yarn would be one that is made for the purpose: soft, airy (insulating) short fibers for woolen warm and soft hats or scarves; longer, possibly coarser worsted fibers from long-staple animals for longer, harder-wearing garments. A worsted, woven, felted garment from long- staple wool will likely last a lifetime. Also be kinda stiff at first.
People spin and knit partly to choose the right fibers for the garment and make sure it is processed and milled in a way in line with that.
"How will this item age?" is yet another reason I love thrift stores. As long as it doesn't have the tags still on, stuff at the thrift store has probably already shrunk any amount that it was going to, stretched out if it was going to, and it'll never look more wrinkly than it does crammed onto the thrift store racks!
I've always worn vintage and secondhand, since 2016 exclusively, and natural fibres tell.
Exactly! And the amount of crap I see from "grocery chain that decided to get into discount clothing", and "mal-mart the small town killer" that is now pilled/faded/stretched being sold for a mere 20% less than it was in the original store, new, because the thrift shop can't process and display it for less than that... is both annoying and ridiculous.
I've used this logic to find jeans that fit like a glove! (wheras buying brand new jeans with even just 1% elastane has led to them sagging and stretching out)
Also can we talk about how it has become standard to put elastane in ALL women's jeans, no matter how relaxed the cut? I'm looking at you, levi's 501s....
I adore buying secondhand for reducing waste, but I never considered this benefit - thank you!
@@yael9455 Yes! This! I cannot find 100% cotton denim jeans anywhere! Anyone? the only jeans my local thrift and consignment stores have are low rise and skinny leg, usually with rips or rhinestones ... you get the picture. Back in college I wore boys 501s, maybe I should look there?
For colors, I think it depends on your "seasonal color analysis." I used to think it was some silly suburban house wife trend along with Kibbe types, but actually makes sense. Wearing colors that suit your complexion, hair, eye and skin undertones based on color theory is unmatched. Some people cannot wear bright colors without being overshadowed by them.
Absolutely right!
Everyone is into it right now but seasonal colors just grind my gears haha. That concept absolutely ignores that olive skin (in various shades) exists, that rosacea can make you have a different skin tone on your face vs. your body and so much more. I've seen other concepts though on youtube that are much more detailed so looking that up may be beneficial regardless.
Yeah if I like it I will wear it even if it looks funky on me lol
The problem is you can change your hair and eye colour, also their style, and even your skin depending on the season. Even though I don't sunbath and even use sunscreen, I just look paler on winter, or maybe it's the dreary atmosphere? Lighting?
You don't stay frozen for a long time as you age. I guess you can try to prolong it, by not wearing contacts, wigs or colouring your hair? Idk it seems boring to me. Personally, I think you can wear any colour, but the problem is what you will combine it with to fit you right now, some do have horrible sense of colour? and choose clashing ones... so people who don't want to bother just use monochrome which is effortless elegant. I also think it looks good on anyone.
I had my colors done in the 80's and it has been so helpful. Made me realize I am autumn but not restricted to autumn if I keep it away from my face.
As a seamstress I have found you can elevate even the cheapest most ill constructed piece of clothing with a good ironing. It's not permanent, but on a lot of the clothing that have those puckers, ripples, and just won't lay nicely on you it can temporarily fix that or at least make it much less noticeable.
I have even used a little starch with a good pressing on some of my rock band T's to take them from wrinkly, puckered frumpiness to crisp and polished.
This is such a good tip! I’ve never thought to starch something like a t shirt. Thanks for sharing :)
Definitely, I iron everything, it’s an enormous improvement for any garment or fabric.❤
There's starch in a form of spray, thanks for reminding, I'll try it!
Absolutely 😊. And using the best detergent for the water in your area and rinsing more than once is also important.
Tshirts look and hold better over time ironed with a light starch.
Hi Hannah,
I'm your occasional, lol; great content!
Nothing compares to quality fabric, NOTHING! The thickness and density of the textile fiber absolutely matter!
More than a year ago, I bought two classic, elegant, and quite expensive white cotton blend tees. Each cost over $50. I bought them out of curiosity to see if they were worth the money. Well, I can't believe how great they are!
Both are well-constructed = they perfectly keep their shape even after multiple washes, as I wear them pretty often. The fabric doesn't pill at all, which is really something(!), and they're still white.
Both are so fantastic-looking, versatile, essential pieces that I can wear almost anywhere, for any occasion, dress them up/down; I absolutely love them!
Conclusion.
They were definitely worth the money, that's for sure!
So.
If you're by chance just starting to re/build your wardrobe, forget about everything else and save money on a few of the best basics - as great as you can afford.
Some white and black T-shirts, a simple semi-fitted white button-down shirt, a great pair of dark jeans, one of those amazing Ralph Lauren jackets (even if you're only 18 and you might think it's too formal, I can guarantee, you'll love it!! ), nice simple looking white sneakers, low cut Thursday boots and a simple camel/grey/black warm coat. Add a sturdy leather handbag in the right size and color to match your lifestyle. All simple, no(!) fancy details and you'll be polished all year round with almost zero(!) effort.
Also, switch to well-cut nude underwear, which is not visible even under more transparent clothes and fits you like a second skin; moreover, it does not look "off-white" immediately after the second wash 🙂!
P.S.
And the devil is, as always, in the details, lol!
Your basics will do the heavy lifting on your well-polished outlook. The refined, fancy, individuality-adding look comes with details = accessories. You even can go wild with them - scarves, earrings, bracelets, belts, shoes, hats, you name it.
Your hair!! I’m obsessed!!!
MTE!
It looks like the cartoon drawing of you in your openings @hannah!
Gorgeous!!!
This. Outstanding.
Everyone should watch this. I mean EVERYONE. I'm completely sick of poorly designed clothing made of cheap fabrics in uninspired colors. Sadly, that is what most of my wardrobe is. BUT fear not with this sage advice!!! Im fixing that!!!
As usual, Hannah has put her finger directly on the pulse of what is so desperately needed in our clothing economy. All Hail Hannah! Thank you! ❤
And online shopping has made things worse. (I am terrible about returning things on time.) I find myself sticking to only designers with consistent quality so I know what I will get online. Trial and error is making me loyal.
@eileencarroll6418 I am going to try to vigorously search for secondhand items on the online consignment sites. I live in Arkansas and on the best day shopping here is awful. Almost nowhere that sells quality clothing. And I mean in the entire state. It's pitiful.
She missed one of the most important parts though! Staple or fiber length!!! That’s what makes the real difference in end quality of natural fibers, a woolen wool sweater is just as likely to pill as a polyester one!! Worsted wool is the long lasting one!!!
And no one has to report the average fiber length (modern machines even cut linen so it fits the machines for cotton it’s a durability nightmare)
@@sarahnelson8836 help educate me on this! How do I learn about this and then spot the right fabrics in clothing?
I like your material but I still dislike how you're pandering to men with a fetish in your pictures. Can women not have anything for themselves? Even performative feminity ....
For me, being plus sized adds many layers of challenges to this problem. There is less availability of clothing overall, and the types of casual clothes that look cool and stylish on thin people often look frumpy and sloppy on plus sized people. Like that tiktok trend “is it a fit or is she just skinny.” The right cut is even harder to find, and non-stretch fabrics often just aren’t practical or comfortable for larger folks. BUT I’m trying to overcome my own cynicism about it and take what is helpful from fashion videos like these.
So true! I have now and then found good pieces in Mango. Especially dressy trousers and blazers. The fabric is usually a polyester mix but it keeps the shape and color nicely when washed. Also some of their knits are really good. But I agree - its a jungle when being plus size! Btw HM rarely also have some nice pieces. Look for the more expensive stuff. I recently bought a shirt and a dress in 100% good quality cotton.
I've been thinking about this a lot after seeing similar comments on recent videos! I linked a number of plus-sized options in the description box for this one, and I'm definitely keeping an eagle-eye out for more ❤
Came here to say this. I’m on the straight/plus size border and I’m practically a different dress size on each region of my body, anything ‘sturdy’ or thick is my nemesis 😭 I need stretch and flow or I look like a cardboard box. I often find there’s this paradox where the best fabrics and cuts to fit on my body are from the cheap and nasty stores I’d rather avoid. I am getting better at very selective thrifting but gosh it’s a struggle.
I relate to this so much! So dispiriting to try something on thinking it will look a certain way on me and get the exact opposite effect.
Im plus size as well I have found good American makes good jeans I have the same issue I love to wear clothes without stretch they have good ones as well as Everlane and I always size up and take my clothes to a seamtress because im petite as well . Hope it helps
Color is soooo subjective. To me, bright and saturated “kindergarten crayon” colors will always look a bit cheesy and immature (the opposite of polished). Muted, desaturated colors look calm, which speaks “polished” to me. I think coordinating with your skin tone (warm vs cool, saturated vs desaturated) also adds to a polished look. That said-when people wear colors that make them happy and fit their personality, it somehow just sings. So wear what makes you happy!
Yes, I was just thinking that. Depending on undertones and contrast in your coloring the mid tones may look the best and the washed out neutrals and really saturated colors may do you a disservice.
Same thoughts here. In the winter, I get quite pale and can look almost green but in the summer I am a bronze goddess. I have dark hair and eyes so in the winter, more contrast with darker tones being what looks more polished, all the blackened versions of colors, leaning more cool. In the summer, brighter and lighter colors than winter, which winds up being mids look better. Whitewashed/ faded colors never look good on me but grayed or blackened is fine and cool toned muted pastels. Super brights look photoshopped onto me. It really just depends on everything put together.
The teal and yellow she pointed out would be perfect for me in the summer because I need white that isn’t white (too bright) and pales in the summer work great. Hence all my burgundy is long sleeve or sweaters and all my pales and mids periwinkle, brighter purples, etc. are warm weather wear.
Will they though?
Or is that cultural...
I was thinking the same thing. I look best in soft and muted colours rather than too saturated ones. I think paying attention to what colours look good on you is important.
But even then I understand what she means about choosing colours that are firmly that colour and not an in-between, for example beige or grey versus greige, which is neither one nor the other.
Just dropping in this little addendum in case it’s of use to anyone. Don’t forget about starch. Our grandparents obsessed about starch for a very good reason. It needs to be used judiciously but if you learn a bit about how to use them, they can make a massive difference to the look and feel of your natural fibre clothing. I even use it to starch the collars of my t shirts to keep them nice and crisp and sturdy. I use them on my button up shirts that I don’t want to look rumpled and relaxed. I occasionally use it to refresh the pleats or creases in my pants. I occasionally use it on my cotton summer dresses if I want them to look just that little bit elevated. Just some food for thought. I know it’s not for everyone, but it really could be an addition to your laundering that makes the difference you’re looking for. Could listen to HOURS of this content, Hannah lol. It’s endlessly fascinating to me all that goes into our clothing and how they work or don’t work for us.
THANK YOU! Her poor rayon shirt needs to pay attention to your tip! Everyone has gotten so lazy about garment care. Everyone needs a can of spray starch and Scothguard!
Really interesting tip, thank you
How do you use it? Thanks!
@@anamauru I really do recommend looking up different ways to starch clothing as there are things to be considered, however for a quick reply, I just use a light spray starch. I concentrate on the cuffs,hems ,and the plackets on a button down shirt, and the waistband, zipper, cuffs, and possibly pleats of pants. Depending on how I want the item to look, I may also do a very light misting of the starch over the entire item. It’s not recommended for wool, but I do find I can use it on wool blends but I always test it on a spot you won’t see first. I personally only use a light starch. Some people prefer a heavier starch on their cuffs and collars. I prefer the light handed approach as it doesn’t build up on the item, keeps it breathable, and remains soft enough to be comfortable against the skin. I usually put the shirt on a hanger, hold it up and just mist the item with the spray if I want the whole thing starched or simply direct the spray towards the collar and hem. Let it settle in for about 30 seconds and then iron as usual. I like using it on my white t shirts and button up shirts because it also acts as a bit of a stain guard as well. It also helps protect the fibres of the collars and cuffs. I personally do not use it every time I launder the items, but that’s personal. I just use it when I find the collars and hems getting floppy and sloppy looking.
Hannah is absolutely right about quality fabrics. I bought a Whistles short sleeved t shirt in a sale. Even at less than half price, it was still more expensive than a lot of other t shirts. However, that t shirt still looks great, the colour is still bright, no pilling, still in perfect shape. I've had it for years, and it has been worn and washed sooo many times, I couldn't guesstimate a number. I almost wish it would wear out !!
Something I'm really missing from this video is an appreciation of individual bodies and skin tones. Stiff fabrics do not look more polished on everyone, and I suspect they look better on Hannah because her bone structure can handle them. A t-shirt and jeans combo will never, ever look polished on me because of the softness of my silhouette (even when underweight, and this is even more pronounced now that I am slightly overweight). While there are some good tips here, I have found systems like colour analysis and kibbe (self-analysis only) to be a gamechanger in helping me look more put together by honouring my individual body.
Completely agree! Stiffer, structured fabrics don't work for me, I need soft and drapey fabrics to feel chic and polished.
Same! And especially the brigth white and deep blacks are colors that do not look very good on me. Especially the bright white.
Yeah, if she had marked this as how she feels polished because these are her colors and shapes and what makes her carry it differently, it might’ve made more sense. I need contrast to feel polished. Different textures, colors, fits and even fabric weights all lend to this. A drapy silk knit top with structured pants or a stiffer tailored blouse with a flowy palazzo works for me. Finding the right styles for you and your proportions,along with the colors that make you feel most elevated, are pretty subjective.
So much this! I was watching this like girl every time I try a highly structured garment my curves destroy the structured look and make me look lumpy, boxy, and unkempt.
Yes - I just posted the same thing. Doesn’t matter how high-quality a sweater is if it’s a classic oversized crewneck - as a Kibbe SD I’ll look sloppy.
I’m an alternative type gal and these rules still apply. Caring for your clothes is so important too, stop killing everything in the dryer lol. Also, get a clothes shaver, never toss an item because of a few pills.
when i discovered a fabric shaver, omg game changer.
Clothes shavers are the gateway to adulthood.
Yup. I enjoy shaving sweaters. It relaxes me.
I loved using that little tool when I was a kid! I never knew what it was called. Thanks!
Shaving pilled clothes is sooooo satisfying! Especially hoodies and socks, it makes them feel so soft!
As a custom garment maker of 20 years experience, here's a few things I want to touch on.
Thin sweaters are not inherently bad. It's a matter of how many ply of yarn is used in making the sweater. Most women's sweaters use 1 ply yarn. That leads to the garment losing its shape, pilling and wearing through at the elbows. Men's sweaters are usually made with 2 or 3 ply yarns. Those weights of yarn hold their shape and wear longer. So look for sweaters made with 2 or 3 ply yarns.
A very important thing to look for when clothes shopping is to check if the garment is cut on the straight grain of the fabric. Puckered hems, seams that don't lie flat and odd gapping at shoulders and necklines are obvious telltale clues. Even being a 1/4" off grain can ruin the cut of a garment.
About rayon. It can be a lovely substitute for silk. It's breathable and less expensive but it does wrinkle more. Again, it's about ply of yarn. I own some 1940s examples of rayon blouses that hold their shape well, but the detail to notice is the fabric has thicker yarn plys than most blouses made today. If you do find a rayon garment you can't live without, consider using spray starch and a warm iron and give it a good pressing. It will give a stiffer hand to the fabric and less wrinkles. And remember to iron a garment inside out when using spray starch (except for collar and cuffs) and use a lower heat setting to avoid scorch marks.
Hi! Stupid question maybe, I am a total noob when it comes to this, but how would a noob like me distinguish between 1, 2, or 3 ply yarns in sweaters?
Thank you for your advice - makes a lot of sense.
Yes to all that! And use a thin pressing cloth over rayon. A cotton thin fabric like some kitchen towels, or cut up an old cotton pillowcase. Just white or beige.
I love the drape of rayon and don’t mind ironing it.
good question. Most of the time the shop employee wouldnt know either......cant hurt to ask though? It s alao a matter of learning how to feel with your fingers, and learning to see how fabrics drape. This takes some time and practise. Also holding fabric up against a light source and inspect from up close might give worthy information: if it shines through a lot, it might be of inferior quality. Good quality clothes in general have fine and yet dense weft or knit..@@dvdh4856
Thick hems are something I always look for, it just feels sooo much more polished and sophisticated somehow. Also, how amazing is Rajiv Surendra's channel??? I love hearing my favorite youtubers mentions my other favorite youtubers
I LOVE your content... but I gotta say, color really depends on what will look good on each person. I've been learning a lot about color analysis, and it BLEW my mind when I learned that my best colors are cool, soft, and muted!! I used to go for the bold colors and had no idea why they didn't look good on me. But I am absolutely GLOWING in colors you dislike (the teal tank, for example). I don't know if you have ever gotten a professional analysis done, but it will totally rock your world once you do. And when you learn more about color analysis, you will understand why some of these "dingy, catalogue colors" are on the market haha. I used to think they were so basic and boring too... so I avoided them... turns out my color season is a "soft summer" and I NEED these colors to look my best because they don't overwhelm or overpower my features/body. Just wanted to share that since your content is excellent and you have so much to teach! This might be an area you can explore and then teach more about in the future. Keep the awesome content coming, thank you!!
Color depends on the quality of the fabric. It is not a question of whether a color is muted it is whether the color is clear. A lot of colors, even bright colors are not distinct, wishy washy and almost have a gray to them. I guess dingy is the word for it!
@@lilys4960 The 'soft summer' color type people actually look best in colors with gray tinge (soft, muted colors). Like @TheEnglishCoach, I too look best in these ''dingy'' grayish colors, and that applies to both clothing and makeup. They make my skin, hair and eye colors look glowing because the undertones resonate with each other beautifully.
I’m the same! All the colours she mentioned not liking are the ones that look best on me and make my eyes and skin pop, lol
Totally agree! I'm soft summer, my hair is a golden grey, ayes blue grey.
With washed teal combined, neutral amd warm greys, off-whites but not cream, grey heather, grey pink.... They make my hair and skin glow in gold, my eyes sparkle. Hard whites, magenta and blue, make my lool greyish yellow and sick.
My grandmother was a professional dressmaker. She taught me how to see the difference between "fast fashion" poorly made clothes and quality made clothes. She made most of my clothes from high school and college. This education has made me a "shopping snob" especially when money was tight. However, I've always collected classic styles and watched my weight to avoid "size creep." When I want somenthing special and can't find it ANYWHERE...I make it myself!
My grandmother did the exact same thing with me. I knew every fabric type and those combinations fast. My grandmother was s professional tailor and seamstress full time day job. How she had time to cloth 3 generations of children and grandchildren and great grandchildren I don't know. Miss her so much.
Same same same!
Having well-fitting undergarments is critical. I had a professional fitting in a shop that exclusively sold women's undergarments; my clothes draped better, skimmed instead of clinging, and enhanced my silhouette. I learned that one bra cannot be all things to all my clothes. Having different styles of bras for different fabrics and cuts is a game-changer for me.
Good foundation garments make a huge difference
Yes! I make sure to have a variety of bra styles and even with underwear I like to have different rises. Plus material makes a huggggge difference. I used to have pantyline showing thru my trousers until I bought high waist Spanx-like underpants (but not actually Spanx because I wanted to be comfortable) and it smoothed out the pantyline problem
I think one thing that Hannah didn't mention and, to me, is super important because it makes or breaks the outfit is the choice of shoes. It's interesting how the same clothes can pass totally different vibes with different accessories, shoes and bags. Not that this was the intent of the video, which is super helpful btw, but if you're still struggling with the outfit, maybe look into these categories before buying more "polished" clothes.
i feel this way about shoes & jewelry/accessories 😸
You are right about the shoes. When they make a shoe other than a sneaker that's comfortable and sturdy, then I will wear it. I wear pants most of the time because I need to wear flat, almond or round toe shoes with a reasonable heel that's stable. Even when I was 20 I couldn't wear anything over 3". I got rid of all of my high heel shoes and replaced them with low heel mules.
I think part of why she didn't mention shoes and accessories is because one of the comments said these items didn't help elevate their look.
@@twannapermenter8229 Clarks and Me Too brand shoes are super comfortable, sturdy, and reasonably cute.
Absolutely. Accessories are the key to having a "capsule wardrobe."
Oh my god. Never have you been so wrong about colour, Hannah 😂
All of these shades of blue and green and mauve look fantastic on us cooler people! Meanwhile bricky-"nudes" look ultra garish.
I can see where it comes from - your colour palette is well suited to the warmer tones and looks really elevated in them. But really not everyone does
Yes Yes yes
Louder for those in the back. She’s usually so good about pointing out that might be the case and she does highlight that it is her opinion but I’m East Indian, cool olive, with dark hair and eyes, and those not quite whites and pale blues look awesome on me, especially when I’m more golden in the summer. Robin’s egg blue (Tiffany’s) is killer. Any faded color looks crap on me because of my darker coloring except for charcoal, and most require some black or gray to not stand out. All of those beige, rusty neutrals also look crap, unless they are my skin color exactly.
THISSSS. Garments with a touch of grey/mutedness to them are perfect for my skin tone whereas the more intense or completely pastel tones make me look ill lol
Absolutely true
100% agree! The teal she used in the example could look (and does on me) so much more polished and better than a bright white or a black shirt since I have lower contrasts in my complexion and leaning towards the cooler side. So black and white are really not for everyone, but as with everything, if you love it - wear it! Looking polished is also about feeling confident in what you’re wearing, regardless of colour and intensity.
I love how Hannah talks about garment, it's clear she knows what she's talking about, and the most important thing, it's really easy to take actual useful takeaways! There are so many things to look for, but it does make a difference.
Another thing I want to add against acrylic for knitwear, from my experience: it'll stink so bad the moment you sweat in them (an since they are not breathable fabric, yikes 😬).
Also, the compounds that cause body odor are fatty-acid-based, they bond permanently with the oil-based plastic yarn. And once that happens, no amount of washing, soaking or other treatments will EVER get the smell out of synthetics unless they are performance wear specifically engineered to fight BO (and sometimes not even then), because the stank has now become one with the yarn. This is also why a thrifted sweater can be fine in the store, yet once you wear it for a while it starts to whiff strongly of the previous owner(s) B.O. - the yarn has been enstankified and in contact with your body heat is now acting like a cursed heat-activated room freshener.
@ros8986 hydrogen peroxide can change the color of the fabric though, can't it?
@@sonipitts I want to know more about these fatty acids. This is really interesting. Which ones are the culprit?
@@SeaFlower38I think removing the stank would be worth a colour change.
@@sonipittsI throw my sports clothes in a bucket with stinky remover for days before washing them. Works fine
Thank you for pointing out how much of this problem is the poor quality of a lot of the clothing market. Finding quality pieces can be such a struggle
One of the things that helps me here is our local seamstress. I spend the few dollars and have her restitch the garment, and in some cases add a lining.
I definitely agree with the fewer details thing. I wear solid shirts a lot, and people always think I am dressed pretty formally. But one thing I want to add is getting your clothes tailored to you. The thicker fabrics you describe tend not to be as stretchy, and I can never get the fit I want with them, but they are perfect for tailoring in a way that thinner fabrics are not. I am not very concerned with my wardrobe, but the few pieces I have had this done with give me so much more confidence. I am also way happier with them.
Came here to say exactly this! I’m short, and spending $10 to get pants and shirts hemmed makes so much difference!
And a lot of the people doing alterations are small, independent local, business people. Please. Support that kind of business.
‘Boldly unfussy’ is a great description of a elegant style.
Great points here Hannah. I like that you removed the cost factor when discussing quality - so often quality is equated with expensive, which is not always (or even usually) the case!
I love that you linked to Rajiv! His channel is wonderful.
Yes I love that secondhand is included as a very valid option. There are multiple reasons secondhand can be great
Excellent presentation. As a child, we did all of our school clothes shopping at Good Will stores. Mom taught us all of the things you laid out, plus the scrunch test. You grab a handful of the garment and scrunch it hard. If it wrinkles and stays that way, you know to stay away.
Those thin t shirts work well under sweaters, etc. to catch your smells and skin cells and they CAN go in the dryer and then you don't have to wash the great stuff as often. (Lastly, a mini pad cut in half will stick to an underarm of a garment and also catch smells. Just never let it show. But that would apply more to a care of clothing video.) Well done! This is a video I am definitely sharing!
I do the scrunch test, too, but because I'm too lazy to iron anything
@@LindalindaliI recently bought a steamer and it's a game changer. It's not quite as fast as an iron but works better for frilly tops with ruffles that can't be ironed. Oddly enough steaming feels easier than ironing even though sometimes it takes longer (depending on the material//)
I don’t agree about the colors and my citation is color theory. Colors are relative to the person wearing them including the models you show. Muted colors look good on people who naturally have low saturation in their coloration I.e. soft autumn. We can’t all pull off bold colors it washes us out. That soft teal is my best color vs the bright ones make me look tired or lost in the color. Same with bright white and black it washes most people out because winter season people aren’t as common as autumn in America for example which is why our foundations lean warm vs in Asian countries they have more neutral cool tones. Off white and charcoal looks better on most people. People having high contrast to pull off these bold colors is not common.
Great great comment, you are absolutely right!! What a delight reading ❤
You are right. Black does not suit anyone as good as it does the 'winters'. Navy is a better option. Also, color is very individual thing and we really should stop labeling certain colors as 'elegant' or 'classy' while others 'urban' or 'artsy'. All colors will elevate or kill the look, depending on who's wearing them.
If you dislike ironing, invest in a steamer! Steamers are a game changer to get your clothes looking good again after washing. I also agree with your advice about avoiding dryers, I avoid using the dryer for just about everything except towels.
I give most things a few minutes on “air” only in the dryer to release some of the wrinkles and pull items out one at a time to hang to dry.
Thank you so much! I feel like you’ve created a support group for all of us who have spent a lifetime trying so hard, and in some cases spending a lot of money, to figure out how to dress (and shop) properly. Your videos demystifying this process are life-changing.
As vulnerable as going through the comments must be, I appreciate how Hannah takes the time to engage with her audience
Aw, thank you so much, Jessica! ❤️
My natural fiber/organic cotton go-to company is Pact. I started buying from them once I realized polyester was making me itchy! It’s difficult to find athletic wear without polyester, but in general I’m not sad to have gotten rid of all of it.
I have to disagree on color-it seems so subjective, how a color will read on each individual person. That teal, for example, could look very bold on someone with very soft color features, while the bold teal would look overpowering, for example.
Amendment-having watched more of the video and looking back over your “this, not that” colors, I am quite willing to back track on my color statement-I think you’ve illustrated your point well. :-)
Yes!! Pact is my favorite, I have garments in every category from them. The clothing is just sooo lovely, and even my items from years ago still look new.
I love the quality of pact but I wish they’d make larger sizes because their items run small
I’ve only gotten underwear from past but every single pair fell apart in less than 6 months. Even the ones they sent to replace the first pack I had gotten. They seemed so poorly made for such a price. It’s kept me from wanting to try anything else from the brand. Maybe I’ll revisit after seeing some of these positive experiences.
@@jilliancampbell6742 I have their undies too. I’ve had them over a year and only one pair (my favorite one ) has gotten a hole. I don’t like their undies bc it’s not enough bum coverage; and some pairs the leg was too tight which was weird. Knickey has some with better coverage but their undies are hit and miss. Some are going strong iver a year, and others have gotten holes or the elastic is fraying. So expensive too. So still looking for real fullll coverage undies that won’t fall apart after a few months …
I love the topic of this video and how you broke it down. While clothing made of thicker fabrics and knits keep their structure more easily, I tend to avoid them as they’re generally not a good match for my body type. Instead, I look for a tight weave on the fabric or knit. This way I get a piece of clothing that can maintain its structure while also getting a curve-loving drape and flow without the droop.
excellent!
love this comment! Yes thickness is not quite the word I would equate with sturdiness, I think you're right about tight weave. When I was a beginner at sewing I would always fall into the trap of choosing too thick fabric for the project thinking thick= quality but would end up with garments that had not te right drape,ad bulky seems and looked awkward etc. (probably not often a problem in store bought clothes ). But yes some very thin but high quality fabrics can make absolutely smooth flowy gorgeous looking garments!
Absolutely! For example if you choose woven cotton of “tana lawn” quality, it is tight, robust, thin, not see-through, will not crease easily etc This is the quality that Liberty fabrics use.
Steaming my clothes and air-drying them has revolutionized my wardrobe lol.
Makes me look so polished and preserves the quality of the items!
11:37 I just started clapping at that flawless comparison of three attempts at "yellow". You two are replacing whole fashion magazines over here with your sharp observations. Obsessed. Leave it to artists to finally articulate this!! 👏🏽👏🏽
I really like viscose as a fabric even though it is indeed wrinkly. In the hot, summer nights, going out in a lightweight viscose dress is bliss. Also, I discovered another fabric that I like - modal . I hope it`s the same in english, it has a certain drapey-ness and it doesn`t crease. You can find t-shirts with modal blend or dresses, try to find one in a store, it may be worth it! ( however I don`t know how it will work in dryer, in Europe it`s not that common to have dryers). Also, exactly as Hannah mentioned, avoid acrylic sweaters, they`re the worst, man. After 3 washes they lose structure, start to electrify once put on ( they stick to your hair, making it fuzzy), etc.
I also like viscose in these contexts, even though everything she said about it is indeed true and it has the most annoying wrinkles lol I will probably phase it out in future purchases. Where I live at the moment is also really hot but I do like a little cardigan to protect me from the AC, so I also go for thinner knits made from cotton and viscose and wool isn't really a great idea. But nobody deserves acrylic, it feels so horrible while you are wearing it.
Modal and Tencel are "brand names" of types of viscose
@@sooz9507 wow, didn't know that. I guess I really love viscose😂
It works badly in a dryer - it’s a proven road to belong in the dingy clothes pile. 😉Viscose does best being hung to dry on a hanger.
I absolutely love viscose fabrics, to be honest (especially Lyocell/Tencel as they tend to be of high quality). They're great to wear in warm weather and especially great in lingerie or homewear.
Your point still stands, though. If the fabric is poorly made, this is a nightmare. And even high quality viscose fabric has to be taken care for properly. Hand wash or "hand wash"program on the machine using laundry bags (is this the right word?). No dryer, no sunlight, wovens ideally dried flat or on a hanger.
You need to take extra care when sewing with viscose (for all the reasons you mentioned) and for garments like blouses a little extra structure usually is a good idea. Also: ironing.
I totally understand everyone who does not want to invest the time in this.
But I have made some garments from viscose wovens, knits and yarns (self knitted) that I absolutely adore and have gotten many compliments for. They also hold up well with the right care. Thick viscose Jersey is my favorite in terms of being low maintenance and having great drape.
I really like the carefully chosen examples/photos that you show. They are not only on-point, cohesive and attractive but also diverse and inclusive. I’m over 60 and appreciate the broad audience you consider in your videos. Well done!
Some people are internally motivated and want to wear what they want, but the Kibbe system, when applied generally, not strictly, is AMAZING. It helps to know what silhouettes to wear based on your body shape and height to avoid looking overgrown (if tall or wearing something too small), drowning in fabric (if short or curvy wearing something shapeless), too messy (if structured styles suit you better than relaxed looks), or too stiff (if relaxed styles suit you better than structured looks). TBH, depending on a person's shape, a basic tee will need to be tailored to give waist definition.
@ifetayodavidson-cade5613 Agree. Kibbe was game changer. I found Aly Art on YT and she, using Kibbe, allowed me to see why I didn’t project well via clothing choices: I wanted to be “feminine” but drapey fabric and small patterns didn’t cut it. Now in more structured, linear, less flounce type things, I project the look I want + look and feel better in my wardrobe. [Back in the day, Mom, Sis, and I read Carole Jackson’s color book and learning that I was a Winter, informed my color choices AND jewelry choices. Could never figure out why gold earrings made me look washed out🤭🌸
KIBBE system if you want to learn what suits YOU...quit falling for hot styles THIS year. Learn if you are a spring, autumn, winter , spring dress in unstructured which category eg warm spring, clear spring, light spring etc..These 2 systems are what you need to look like YOU Then buy for your lIfestyle inside those systems.
I learned as a Theatrical Romantic to always emphasize my waist...never oversize floppy anything. Even my loungewear is in my colors and a little less oversize than is usual comfy yes, sloppily no.
Take your best neutrals to build your foundation wardrobe. Then add particular versions of touches of your eye,,hair colors etc...what suits you ...eg NO to bright white or black on me. Ivory and navy are my best neutral extemes. I always look upscale when I wear them in styles,for my body.
As a former sewer construction is key too. And yes to thrifting classic STYLES
ALL my Ralph Lauren is vintage.
There are two other things that make all the difference. One is fit--fit is the difference between looking nice and stopping traffic, and it can definitely be the difference between level three and level four. The other is foundations. If you're wearing a bra or binder that doesn't fit right, or you're wearing bottoms that aren't right for the garment, your clothes aren't going to look good. Bra wearers are going to want a structured bra for level four outfits, and there should be absolutely no visible undergarments or lines.
Absolutely agree. I am breastfeeding and can only wear nursing bras with no underwire. I have a large bust anyway, so to get enough support I layer a nursing tank top with the bra. No matter what outfit I put on, I look frumpy right now.
So true! Gor a lot of clothes, if the underwear isn't right, you won't look nice. From bras and panties, to shape wear, hose, etc
Really enjoying your fashion content. It's different from others' content and just always delivered in an intelligent, thoughtful way besides the typical take on "what's in/out this season." I appreciate the intentionality aspect behind the process.
I love that you included this list of shops that make clothes like this and specified whether they carry extended sizes. One of the biggest challenges as a larger person trying to find good clothes is that so few higher end shops sell our sizes. The ones that are easier to find sell clothes in fabrics that are really uncomfortable and look frumpy after a few wears. It's hard to break the fast fashion habit when slow fashion has so little to offer. It's beyond helpful to have a few places to start with! Thanks!
This was excellent. I’m on a mission to slowly replace the junk in my closet with fewer high quality garments mostly made from natural fibers. It’s a struggle & requires me to exercise my patience muscle. Also I’ve realized I have to actually go to the physical store & try things on. 😒
Acrylic sweaters will stay nicer looking if you keep them out of the dryer. Just lay them flat to dry. The heat from the dryer "melts" the acrylic fibers in the yarn, then the tumbling action stretches out those melted fibers.
Longtime crocheter here. When I make a blanket for someone, it uses a ton of yarn. Acrylic is inexpensive. I tell people to keep that blanket out of the dryer and it'll last forever.
Hannah, I've been thinking about this for a while: I simply cannot express how seen I feel when, in these fashion videos, you include reference photos with models and examples that are not just straight-sized people. And to that point: seeing people of all gender expressions, with ranging ages and levels of disability, and who are well-rounded in skin tone representation also makes my heart shine. I always look forward to these fashion videos, even if I don't think the content is pertinent to my own style, because they are so well crafted and seeing similar versions of myself in your examples ends up inspiring me in the end. :)
Hey, I'm a knitter and I'm not really sure why this popped up in my feed. I would like to bring up the idea of "steam blocking" for your delicate blouse you mention at 6:20. I'm sure that you can look up how to do it, but the basic idea is for hand made garments you want to basically set their shape prior to wearing or gifting. The most extreme example of that is blocking out lace, since you want to tell all the lace to be open and pretty. It can be done with solid pieces too though. Find a good place to lay out your garment where you can actually pin it into a shape. Then starting at the seams at the top of the garment, pin it with your basic measurements in mind, starting from the center with the button band and working down and out. When It's all pinned, blast it with the steam from your iron or steamer and let it dry while still pinned. That works really well for all buttoned garments. It will keep the shape really well until you wash it. Then you can do the same thing again, or try your hand at wet blocking and skip the steam. Tailor measuring tapes help!
Your hair is intensely amazing in EVERY VIDEO.
The blueing agent and REALLY separating brightwhites is KEY!
Did you pass grammar
What did I say that you didn't understand?
As per usual, I love your insightful commentary as much as I love your look. Sadly, not all of us have such bold coloring. Your principles on level 4 color choices are greatly informed by your own coloring as well as your uniquely artful aesthetic perspective, as it should. But those color principles completely deny the existence of Summers who have a muted, light, cool color palette. All of those powdered down pinks, blues, cool greens, greys, and purples are exquisite on Summers, ethereal even.
I’m a Spring so I get to enjoy all of the dopamine dressing warm brights but often feel less than chic in certain environments where everyone is in white, black, taupe, grey, or navy. It’s tough all around, but I so appreciate all of your contributions to this important conversation. Loving the fact that your top choices for level 4 fabrics are the most sustainable!
I’m not as much of a makeup person as you are, probably because I have almost no contrast in my face and also because I wore makeup from a young age in dance & theatre. Growing up in the eighties helped me burn through a lot of my makeup bandwidth & now I’m just trying to develop some winsome looks… Thanks for encouraging great skincare, choiceful spending, makeup/wardrobe boundaries AND playtime.
This is me formally requesting more wardrobe content… you know!
I would love to see a video in which Hannah either has a professional color analysis, or talks about the 4-season or 12-season color theory and how it relates to her own styles. The system has a habit of putting people in boxes, but it opens up a lot of possibilities for people.
Springs look great in neutrals like ivory, camel and navy!
@@marycansing I hear you, and obviously I find the (4 season) rendition helpful, but it’s subjective no matter how you slice it. I did not need my colors done to know that I look like I’m dying in black or white… When I finally got mine done, the first gal saw my blonde hair & blue eyes and decided I was a Summer before she draped me at all, I suspect, because it’s pretty obvious that my flaws are GLARING when surrounded by cool toned. Years later, an experienced pro did mine and I saw for myself that I was clearly a Spring. It helps me NOT buy most things produced for the mass market (Springs are 8% of the world). It also helps me find great deals in Clearance and on Sale because people are so terrified of Orange, Lime, etc.
That said, Hannah has carefully developed her own sense of color alignment. As an artist, I would never want to change that in another artist. (Someone came into my Urban Bohemian Sunrise living room and suggested I needed something black to ground it, I was so frustrated… I did not spend a year carefully curating EVERY tiny item, wading through oceans of grey scale options, getting a custom mural made, etc. If I wanted my living room to look like everyone else’s I would certainly know what to do… but I’m NOT everyone else, and my opinion is the only one that matters in my home, my wardrobe, & my makeup. God help the fool who tells me everyone looks better in black mascara, I’ve worn it my whole life- thanks. I hope we can all just respect each other’s choices. I wanted my colors done because I struggled to find anything that flattered and my late Mum had brainwashed me against the colors that suited me best. (Because her own mother relegated her to that same palette, which made her covet black/royal blue/purple/scarlet.) Mum was able to pull it off, she had much more contrast (like HLP), but those colors (which I have worn endlessly in theatre) just swallow me whole.
At the end of the day, it’s a personal choice.
Great tips! I'd add that undergarments are also incredibly important. As a woman with large breasts, nothing makes me look frumpy faster than a unflatering bra that's too tight or small or doesn't offer the amount of support I need. I say, independent of your cup size, If You want to look more polished ditch the sport bras and invest in a few high quality bras (that You tried on in store preferably).
Totally agree with this one. Getting measured by a professional made a huge difference
Yep! Before I had kids, I was sized in a lingerie store (NOT Victoria’s Secret- they do not know what they are doing and will tell you the closest size they have, not your actual size). It was life changing. For the first time, I could be supported and feel like I was wearing nothing. No straps digging in, no cup-adjusting push up, no wiggling back into place 😂
Three kids later, and it’s a struggle. I always feel frumpy because I can’t wear underwire while breastfeeding. Undergarments make a BIG difference!
Forever struggling to find bras that fit me in store. 😩
Agree, was shocked when a friend asked for help bra shopping and was shocked to hear she hadn’t purchased new bras in five or more years. That explained a lot to me.
Hi Hanna! Just wanted to say I really appreciate (in both meanings of the word) the recent improvements in production quality. I'm a newer subscriber, but I've been binging your full history of videos, so I am in a place to say that the quality of your content has been impressive through out and I love that your production has risen to support it!
I also just love your eloquence. The way you put words together to so accurately illuminates a nuanced thought is beautiful.
I’ve been checking labels for years and had started to think I had unreasonable standards because almost nothing met them. I’m glad I’ve stumbled into this type of content, for the education *and* the validation.
I really love the diversity represented in the examples you show in your fashion videos. Varying gender expression, body types, people with prosthetics, etc. Love to see it!
Agreed!
It’s so notable every time!!
Was just thinking this exact thing ❤
Yess!!🙂👍👍
The diversity is wonderful!!
Personally my favourite material is viscose for summery dresses. Its so soft and it breaths well. Something I find interesting is the wrinkling that she mentions. Because my modern viscose dresses do wrinkle quite easily (I find they get more wrinkly if its humid and hot). However I’ve also got a number of vintage 100% viscose dresses and jumpsuits from the 1940-1960s and those dont wrinkle nearly as easily. Ive worn one of my more dressy viscose vintage jumpsuits to two weddings and it stayed pretty much wrinkle free for the whole day.
I find it interesting that some people use the dryer so much. Most people I know in the Netherlands use it mostly for bed sheets and towels
The only disagreement I might pose here is to do with color - my opinion is that it really depends on the person and what colors work best for them as individuals. Some people really do look better in those mid-intensity colors, or softer colors whether they're neutrals or not! So from that perspective, if your fabric and construction quality are on point, maybe that particular color (or version of that color) doesn't suit you. We're all made up of different colors like a painting palette, so some colors will create harmony with you and others won't.
That was my only part I disagreed with too. Kind of. I see the color points of the video and am thinking on them. But am also a big fan of personal color analysis. Maybe especially Caygill cause that's about the very specific individual even beyond if they fit into one of the say 12 season categories. 🙂
So for example bright white, black, or bold colors will definitely not suit some people very authentically well (me included as I resonate with Soft Autumn or an area between or dipping into both Soft Autumn and Soft Summer).
Plus everyone has their different most flattering versions of neutrals in my experience.🙂
And also in my experience the level of structure vs. flow that is ideal can vary by individual. I think done well flowy can look very polished. However I love this video and overall it makes much sense to me.
This was great! I have given up on shopping and started making my own clothes. Quality clothes look just as good on the inside as the outside
Rayon lover here, lol! I do actually think it is somewhat body type dependent what fabrics suit you. And lifestyle/preference dependent, as you’ve said! I am also a natural fibers girlie, but to my surprise as a mom of small children have recently discovered a love of nylon and rayon! I love silk but it’s too high maintenance with kids and rayon gives me the drapiness. That said, I only wear it in dresses, I think it’d be less satisfying in a top and a definite no go for pants. Linen has been trending for the past couple of years and I think it is so beautiful and a “forever fabric” but hard to wear for those who are short and curvy-it doesn’t really mold to the body, which I think makes it more flattering on those who have the size (whether in height or in relative straighter lines within their frame) to carry it off. I tend to look at things through a Kibbe and color analysis lens so I am often over here being like, look at Hannah perfecting how to be a soft dramatic autumn💃👩🍳🤌🎉
I left almost the same comment!; rayon is definitely my friend. 🤗
Same, love rayon :)
One thing to always look at is the tightness of the weave or knit. Tighter weaves always last longer especially for linen. A lot of cheap linen is loosely woven.
Some fine knits lasts really well because they have “tighter” knit stitches and are also made sturdier as they are “double knit” (which means that the knitting machine making the cardigan/jumper knitted two knit layers instead of one you can tell this by the stitches looking the same on both the right and the wrong side). What to avoid is a sloppier knit stitches and almost see through knitwear. I thrifted a cashmere cardigan like that and whilst it’s lovely & soft the see through look doesn’t suit the style.
Harrods in London had lots of Viscose for such expensive gowns Viscose i could just look at it and tell before I checked the label!
Agree with the opinions about color. I’m pale with red hair and freckles; never liked prints as I already have enough going on. And so many of those colors you mentioned look hideous on me. Supersaturated is something I have to be careful with; likewise, too pale can wash me out. IMO, color is the most personal and individual selection to which people readily respond. Go with your gut.
So subjective! I’m also pale with red hair and freckles and I looove pattern and bold colours. I feel like I can get away with it because I am already a lot. It’s embracing my uniqueness. And yes, pale things really wash us out. I also find anything that is a bit muddy is better - a slightly dirty blue or pink is much better than a clean blue or pink
Also a pale skin redhead with freckles. But now I am older and my hair is very blonde heading toward white. I find that there is a lot to color advice that doesn’t quite fit - when redheads are discussed, they are Julia Roberts redheads - not the same as me. I have friends that look so classy in their neutrals, blacks, and whites, but their colors just don’t work for me.
Now that manufacturers market polyester or combo sheets, the new normal is deplorable and yes I am a fabric connoisseur. Nice content!
Yes! I have learned they will label them cotton but you have to dive into the details to find they are a crummy blend, and not significantly cheaper at that.
I appreciate you noting in your links which stores offer plus sizes ❤
I knit my own sweaters, cardis and accessories and while it would be way cheaper/quicker to buy latest trend I know that my bespoke 100% wool knitweare will be timeless, warm and with great structure. Repurposing and adjusting thrift store finds is also way to go!
One thing to combat the hanger versus home transformation, thrift. I love silk, wool, and cotton, as well as tech wear (gym rat) with a tailored vibe but all of that tends towards the expensive, meaning I’ll never wear it leaving it wrapped in it’s pretty package until it molders. I have several 100% silk tees and basics, as well as linen, etc., which I felt comfortable wearing while holding my cat and dog, tossing in the washing machine and drying, because they weren’t expensive, and they had probably already had that treatment. It makes me feel less precious and I can still opt for brands that do the most.
I strongly agree with this!!
I think the print/pattern will also greatly effect the casualness of a garment. I have a love/hate relationship with rayon. I love the drape, but yes yes and yes to everything else you said about rayon. Being 5’9” I hang dry almost everything so that arms, leg length, etc doesn’t shrink and ruin the length of the garment. That’s part of why my clothes last forever.
I've noticed that not all rayon is made equally - I have to feel it first, but it also helps if it has a busy pattern to hide the wrinkling lol
This!!!! I found that I have to buy things with boning, ridges, and very *clear* structure to look polished because I was continually getting aggravated with trying to look more elevated and I wasn’t. Your commentary is always so spot on!
I have a skin/autoimmune condition that gives me flare-ups when my clothes are tight, so I can't wear anything figure-hugging other than very soft, thin leggings. Anything else is loose fitting, flowy , smooth etc - and this can go one of two ways: jogging pants/ athleisure or flowy linen pants and oversized silk shirts and cashmere throws, all second hand. I chose option two and it feels fabulous.
Rayon/viscose come in so many woven qualities. I had one button up oversize shirt I bought when I was like 15 years old. 100% rayon, did not wrinkle like the very cheap ones even if it was thin. I wore it regularly for over 20 years!! At the end it was not polished casual, ha ha, but it was for most of that time. Also there is viscose twill, a heavier weight woven that in my opinion always looks polished. And linen viscose mixes I just love.
Friends have told me that I nail that effortlessly stylish yet casual and I never really understood why or how. But, after watching this I understand that my mom raised me to look for these elements. She is a fabulous seamstress, and would always point out low quality fabrics, cuts and structure. I never knew! I buy all my stuff second hand but look elevated, because I can spot high quality clothes.
Get out of my head! I literally thought yesterday “I need to go back and rewatch Hannah’s video to polish casual clothing” and then your follow up arrived! Thank you so much. I've always found fashion hit and miss and just assumed I didn't have that magic fashion gene to get it.
Thank you! Now I know why I have so much better luck with thrifted clothing looking better on me ❤
I came from fourth generation Italian tailors and grew up playing with scraps of fabrics at my parents shop. Unfortunately I never learned to use a sewing machine but I spent enough time around all of the fabrics to be able to spot quality. My favorite trick while perusing the thrift store aisles is to scan the racks solely for fabric quality and then select pieces from there based on color, cut and size.
There were so many helpful things in your video, I actually purchased a t shirt at a boutique last week that was a great quality black casual tee. When I put it on I was disappointed at how frumpy it looked! It definitely was loungewear casual as opposed to polished casual and watching your video helped me understand it was the stretched out pocket that really diminished the look. ❤️
Your fashion content is always so inspiring.
Even though I make my own clothes instead of buying them these days, your insight of colour and technique is very useful and will definitely apply it in my garment sewing going forward. ❤
One of the best and most helpful fashion videos I've ever seen! Thank you!
I enjoy these thoughtful analytical videos, but some of these points are highly subjective (which is fine, just something to note).
Personally I love drapey fabrics and I think they can look elegant and 'Level 4' - for e.g. Sezane does a good job of relaxed + polished using drapier fabrics and silhouettes. It's a matter of taste, and lots of other elements, like fit, morphology, grooming, accessorising, etc.
There's a lot of viscose/rayon bashing on the internet, but the thing is there is an enormous range of quality when it comes to any fibre: natural, man-made or semi-synthetic. You can get a 100% cotton shirt that's made of fabric that is horrible quality and you can get one that is delightful. The same is true of viscose/rayon. I've experienced viscose that shrinks and wrinkles badly as well as viscose that never needs to be ironed and always looks and feels great.
It's no matter how well clothes are done, what cut they are or color if fabric is not good quality. But even a good quality of fabric don't save a person from looking frumpy if clothing is wrong size and person has that frumpy outlook and posture. Models always look good with everything they wear for a reason.
Loved this video, especially where you compare garment constructions. Here are some often overlooked opportunities to look more polished.
1. Sometimes ironing really IS a good idea. (How to iron would be a good video.)
2. Shoes and purses need to be clean and scuff free, touched up color and conditioned leather, shapes supported by cardboard or tissue while in storage. (Accessory care would make a good video.)
3. When shank buttons are surface mounted, they droop. Replace with a flat button that will face forward instead of down. The shank of a button is designed to position the button in front of the fabric that it is fastening. Many manufacturers misuse shank buttons on double breasted jackets and cuffs. Half the buttons facing forward next to half the buttons facing the floor is not a polished look. It is an easy hand sewing fix.
4. Only blue jeans look good faded. Faded black Ts should hit the rag bin. Same goes for stains and holes.
5. Agree with rayon comments but silk may be just as bad. P.S. I love saturated silk colors.
6. Fit. Too-tight clothing looks cheap; be real with who we are at the moment.
Too long, too short, etc. Pant lengths would be a good video in the context of cheap to polished. Daisy Dukes, shorts, Bermudas, pedal pushers, capris, ankle length and full length...
Getting wide-leg pants right would also make an interesting discussion.
Thanks for all that you do. I have implemented some of your color ideas in my own wardrobe. It's been great fun and thought provoking.
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First I would like to know your definition for 'cheap'.
@@Killjoy_Mel In the context of fit, I intend cheap mean poor quality materials that loose their shape or shrink and no longer fit or hang in a flattering way. I have had bad experiences with rayon losing its shape and no longer fitting. In the context of quality, some fabrics fade, pill or look too transparent and that makes them look cheap. For example, white pants that are thin enough to see the color change or a ridge at the pocket lining look cheaply made. The opposite of cheap would be well made, cut to fit a body without gaps, pulling or unintended folds, and polished looking fabric that is not worn or faded and hangs well.
This is so helpful! I will definitely keep an eye out for these ideas when I’m buying basics.
I would like to push back slightly on rayon. Vintage rayon can be the most delightful fabric to wear. It was originally made as a silk replacement - so it was HEAVY. Vintage rayon has so much body, it’s weighty and absolutely delicious and I highly recommend the experience of wearing it if you have the opportunity. However! Around the rise of fast fashion, (think late 80s and beyond) rayon fabrics were made thinner and thinner and thereby cheaper and cheaper. Nowadays, most are genuinely awful and hold up like milk outside on a hot day. But I still think you can apply the rule of holding a rayon garment in store and feeling it’s weight and deciding if that would last. I would especially recommend looking into rayon when thrifting and doing this. If you can find an older piece you can absolutely find a garment that will wear and hold up beautifully. But other than that Hannah, you and I are in complete concordance!
Fast fashion is your enemy and the enemy of the planet.
So true! In my experience though I have found this type of rayon in clothing manufactured up to the late nineties. Thanks for sharing this knowledge.
Thanks for this, Hannah - and this whole series! I put on a LOT of weight after Covid and have been really struggling to feel polished as a result. I keep humoring the lie that I won't look put together or chic until I'm ~thin and clothes fit me a certain way again, which is just a terrible way to think and feel. Your focus on materials and your use of all different kinds of models as references really helps me challenge that line of thought. Looking forward to a future materials video like you mentioned! You're the best.
I put a lot of weight as well but after beating myself for a long time I am embracing the fact that CLOTHING SHOULD FIT MY BODY and not the other way around.
If I loose weight, great , but in the mean time I have to have a few well made clothes in my size that flatter me. Period. Wishing you the best.❤
@@Marsolan Thank you for this! Such a great perspective. Sending you the best, too. ❤
I am obsessed with your hair lately! Loving the more grown out bang!
There's a reason Americans are always wanting to dress like the French. Americans recognize there's something special about the way they dress and are always trying to imitate it, but don't usually quite hit the mark. Americans are bombarded with cheap tacky clothing in a way the Europeans aren't. The same way Americans are marketed cheap low quality food in a way they aren't.
This video is superb, once people start learning about how quality affects our clothing (and food and every aspect of life really), the companies won't be able to push low quality on people because everyone will be educated to make better choices.
The endless haul videos out there are setting us backwards though, which is unfortunate.
Look at you out here making all our lives better. I just love you.
Amazing video. I could not agree more on natural fiber.
The only fabric I have is cotton, linen, wool, tencel and couple nylon leggings. No other fabrics at all and I absolutely happy with performance of these. Not a single clothing item goes in the dryer and wash always cold.
I have started steaming my clothes which actually seems to work really well. Less damage than the iron.
I also have to say that knowing your body type makes such a big difference. For instance, once I realized that I’m a Soft Dramatic in the Kibbe system, I look so much better in a t-shirt and jeans that supports my lines than I ever did before, no matter how high-quality my pieces were.
How do you figure out your type
It's so helpful to shop in person instead of online so you can FEEL the fabric. Almost always disappointed by quality of online purchases unless I already know the brand very well.
Thank you for a great video! One thing beside fabric etc that I find influences the level of sloppiness is shoes. Your shoe choice can really change the mood of an outfit.
True, always protect suede and nubuck, polish leather, get heels replaced before they wear right down.😊
This is one of the best, most detailed explanation of a problem I've never been able to figure out. This is amazing!!!
Care of the clothes you own and buy is probably the most important thing. I go back to lines that I trust because I know how to care for them. I have tissue cashmere that have lasted for decades. I wear them and air them several times before I wash them and I hand wash my delicates and block them. I’ve had worse luck shopping for all out casual clothes. I guess my polished casual clothes age out and then they become my casual clothes.
I love the fact that you talked about the colors. It is indeed a big thing to pay attention to.
And, I love that your comments are all about the opinions of others about it too, it shows how diverse we are as a company. And all of us are still find your videos and content interesting.
I really loved this video. Please do more like it! I love how specific it is and how you showed concrete examples. I just started sewing as a hobby and now i'm much more aware of all those small details.
Truly the first time anyone has ever laid this out in a way I understand it. Incredibly useful!
This could not have come at a better time!! Thank you HLP for your nuanced fashion advice! Loving this!
I know this is an older video, but I just discovered your channel, and this series on fashion and garment selection has been THE MOST HELPFUL content I've found on the subject. I'm well on my way to decluttering my bloated closet and carefully selecting well-made, elevated basics (some from brands like Cos and Ayr.) Thank you, thank you.
Great video Hannah! I feel like we are not “taught” material awareness at all - I have hypohydrosis and wearing anything with polyester is genuinely a horrible experience as my skin cannot breathe and I feel really hot but also really cold when it is cold. And it took me so long to realise that it not only doesn’t usually look good and it also doesn’t serve me! I agree in terms of creasing however I must say for people that commute/travel viscose can be really smart and reliable - but as you said you have to be really careful with it or balance it out with different materials - i.e it being mixed with cotton or linen.
I too hang all my casuals. I have some items I dry completely, like old t-shirts that won’t benefit from hanging. I finally found a Holy Grail black and a white t-shirt. Walmart has these Time and Tru crewneck slub tee with 60 cotton, 40 recycled poly. I hang to dry. I wish they had more colors, but otherwise, these are the best tees for this summer.
Another thing that can help you look polished is tailoring. If there's something easy you can do, such as take up a bottom hem so it hits you in just the right place, it's worth the cost to customize that garment exactly to you. Some alterations are easier than others, though. You have to know what's an easy tailoring task and what's not.
This was really educational! I love your considered explanations of everything. So impressive.
Concise and I agree with many of your points EXCEPT color. My best colors are quite washed out, muted and completely desaturated. I think fabric, cut and construction make a much bigger impact in my case. Drop shoulders and cocoon shapes are terrible on my body (automatic shapeless frumpy look) so knitwear is very difficult to find for a more polished look.
Was thinking similarly. I think bright bold colors can be great in certain contexts and depending on how it's done, but most of the time I think bight yellows, hot pinks, electric blues etc. give an outfit a more casual, playful look rather than polished. It is even easy for these to look garish and too "of-the-moment" for a polished look.
Your content is so original and interesting, and so well presented, eloquent and fluent without any distracting preening.