I pull the tires off,and wheel well to the side for the manifold studs,and was able to get starter out.I been lucky, Nova Scotia has salty roads, but the rig I bought covered in under coating.I work at a Ford dealership, lots of advice. Thanks for the video, good information, and my solenoid plug came out in one piece. Still working on my rig, thanks again, happy Saturday from 🇨🇦 .
if I were going to remove the cats to the resonator that he has out would I have to remove just the one larger cross member ? any advice I have had the the transition replace a year ago so I don't think rust on these bolts are going to be a problem. I'd just hate to get half way threw and then have to tow it to the professional
I agree with you, people will make videos that tell you remove bolts, to whatever they are mtoolaking the video about, and then cut to a scene where the bolts are removed but never say the location and how they have to Remove and what to use
@ 9:30 , that is pretty much true for ALL my tools. I dont use them often, but when I do they are worth their weight in gold. They always save me . tools are never a bad investment.
The servo you are pointing out at 2:50 is the intermediate servo. The overdrive servo is the smaller front one. Whatever though, it sucks when that happens!
The little access port you were wondering what it was above the where the transmission was located believe it or not that sir is the condensation weep hole from your a/c they are known for dripping on wiring harnesses and causing issues great video thanks
two questions 1. This is for a V8 correct? 2. Any considerations on changing out motor mounts during this project? Seems like a good time to do it. Thanks for the great video!
I know this is an old video but since you have experienced rebuilding these Transmissions I'm in the process of doing a light build on my 500 98 all wheel drive and was curious what transmission is a good replacement or what build kit can I install that will hold 4 to 500 horsepower and for 500 foot pounds of torque
He mentioned that the starter motor was difficult in taking out. I just wanted to put my two cents in for whatever it's worth. Anybody out there listening... if you're having trouble with your Ford Ranger, Explorer, Expeditions, Excursions Eddie Bauer edition, and or Lincoln navigators Mercury mountaineers etc. The best way to take them out (and I have literally worked on every one of those models numerous times) is to remove the front tire, and wheel well cover. Then your able to go right through the side of the firewall ...easy peasy😁 lemon squeezy😉.
Hi, I have a question that you might be able to answer for me, I was fitting a floor shifter to my 2001 explorer Sport Trac and I disturbed a 5/16 rubber hose up on top of the trans and it snapped and fell to pieces from perish but I don't know where it goes to to replace it. You can see it on top of your trans that is sitting on the floor just hanging down one side, but at the top your one seems to have a plug in it. Mine broke about 4" down from where that plug is in your one. Can you help explain where it goes to up towards the engine. Thanks.
@@JoshZiegler-y7g Yes it is only a breather hose going up high into the engine bay for if you are driving in water. I just replaced it but unless you are driving in deep water the it is not necessary.
I actually sold the truck to a family member, and he brought it over about a month ago for an inspection. It's been 5 years or so and I think he's put around 60,000 on it so far and the truck is running great. Went underneath it and zero leaks or anything that looked bad. So far that transmission is holding up.
Sorry never done one of those but I would think at worst with the radiator out there would be plenty of clearance to work a job like that. but not sure as I've not worked on any with the 4.0 yet
did my 2004 4.0 , all timing chains , and to do rear one you have to remove engine which i did , or the transmission , because the bell housing covers the jack shaft access hole . mine was awd and so it also has a balance shaft chain.
Anytime I have to mess with the back side of the firewall and it's been my vehicles I found that if you got small enough hands just take an angle grinder and cut yourself with service port right out of the floor board when you're done welder back in with tack welds and JB will the rest of the gaps cover back up with the carpet and good to go but like I said small hands become very helpful and also make sure you do your measurements twice cuz it helps a lot to realize that you need the port shifted one way or the other if you're left or right handed so you get better access to it. It's kind of like the trick with the old Ford pickups when the heater core would go out and you just cut a square out of the vent inside the firewall and pull it out that way instead of going in up through the dash behind the glove box except you're cutting the hole in the opposite side of the firewall LOL
it's not often we find a video where the real life dramas actually take place...honest and straight forward...thank you
I pull the tires off,and wheel well to the side for the manifold studs,and was able to get starter out.I been lucky, Nova Scotia has salty roads, but the rig I bought covered in under coating.I work at a Ford dealership, lots of advice. Thanks for the video, good information, and my solenoid plug came out in one piece. Still working on my rig, thanks again, happy Saturday from 🇨🇦 .
if I were going to remove the cats to the resonator that he has out would I have to remove just the one larger cross member ? any advice I have had the the transition replace a year ago so I don't think rust on these bolts are going to be a problem. I'd just hate to get half way threw and then have to tow it to the professional
This is a really great video. Thanks for sharing all this info!
I agree with you, people will make videos that tell you remove bolts, to whatever they are mtoolaking the video about, and then cut to a scene where the bolts are removed but never say the location and how they have to
Remove and what to use
sheeeesh! that servo tore that case up! them cross member lower bolt commonly snap, all four of mine did
Dang! You talked better & clearer than most shop teacher
@ 9:30 , that is pretty much true for ALL my tools. I dont use them often, but when I do they are worth their weight in gold. They always save me . tools are never a bad investment.
Great video well done
Thanks! I'm glad this video has been helpful to so many even though I didn't film the actual removal.
The servo you are pointing out at 2:50 is the intermediate servo. The overdrive servo is the smaller front one. Whatever though, it sucks when that happens!
The little access port you were wondering what it was above the where the transmission was located believe it or not that sir is the condensation weep hole from your a/c they are known for dripping on wiring harnesses and causing issues great video thanks
Why can't we see the video that we ask for !!!!!
two questions 1. This is for a V8 correct? 2. Any considerations on changing out motor mounts during this project? Seems like a good time to do it. Thanks for the great video!
I used vise grips and hammer to get stud out of threads
That's not the over drive servo the smaller one is‼️‼️ , but 👍🏼 video.
I've built two 4r70w's and I've never see a torque converter that wasn't welded and I've personally had probably 15 convertora
I know this is an old video but since you have experienced rebuilding these Transmissions I'm in the process of doing a light build on my 500 98 all wheel drive and was curious what transmission is a good replacement or what build kit can I install that will hold 4 to 500 horsepower and for 500 foot pounds of torque
Or just do the right thing like any other ford junk it
Good video.
He mentioned that the starter motor was difficult in taking out.
I just wanted to put my two cents in for whatever it's worth.
Anybody out there listening... if you're having trouble with your Ford Ranger, Explorer, Expeditions, Excursions Eddie Bauer edition, and or Lincoln navigators Mercury mountaineers etc.
The best way to take them out (and I have literally worked on every one of those models numerous times) is to remove the front tire, and wheel well cover. Then your able to go right through the side of the firewall ...easy peasy😁 lemon squeezy😉.
How far off the ground did u raise that vehicle to have clearance to pull the transmission from under there.
Nice quality Video but Isn't the forward servo the OD Servo and the rear is 3rd or intermediate?
Hi, I have a question that you might be able to answer for me, I was fitting a floor shifter to my 2001 explorer Sport Trac and I disturbed a 5/16 rubber hose up on top of the trans and it snapped and fell to pieces from perish but I don't know where it goes to to replace it. You can see it on top of your trans that is sitting on the floor just hanging down one side, but at the top your one seems to have a plug in it. Mine broke about 4" down from where that plug is in your one. Can you help explain where it goes to up towards the engine. Thanks.
Hey did you ever figure it out? I have the same issue
@@JoshZiegler-y7g Yes it is only a breather hose going up high into the engine bay for if you are driving in water. I just replaced it but unless you are driving in deep water the it is not necessary.
After putting the rebuilt transmission in how long did it last?
I actually sold the truck to a family member, and he brought it over about a month ago for an inspection. It's been 5 years or so and I think he's put around 60,000 on it so far and the truck is running great. Went underneath it and zero leaks or anything that looked bad. So far that transmission is holding up.
where did you buy the rebuilt transmission?
Got it from Powertrain Products: www.powertrainproducts.net/
Is this the same on the lincoln aviator? 2003, 4x4, 4.6 engine?
Short answer, yes, maybe one or two miner differences but you will get a lot help from this video.
These suvs drive good when they are right, but are mechanical disasters!
No seriously if u question at all don’t do it lol
hey ,do you know any other way to work on the timing chain on those explorers without taking the engine out,it 4.0 l v6
Sorry never done one of those but I would think at worst with the radiator out there would be plenty of clearance to work a job like that. but not sure as I've not worked on any with the 4.0 yet
Vortex Garage it is weird design,one chain in the front left,one rear right,near the firewall
There are three chains on the 4.0l. Why Ford done this is anyones guess.
did my 2004 4.0 , all timing chains , and to do rear one you have to remove engine which i did , or the transmission , because the bell housing covers the jack shaft access hole . mine was awd and so it also has a balance shaft chain.
Anytime I have to mess with the back side of the firewall and it's been my vehicles I found that if you got small enough hands just take an angle grinder and cut yourself with service port right out of the floor board when you're done welder back in with tack welds and JB will the rest of the gaps cover back up with the carpet and good to go but like I said small hands become very helpful and also make sure you do your measurements twice cuz it helps a lot to realize that you need the port shifted one way or the other if you're left or right handed so you get better access to it. It's kind of like the trick with the old Ford pickups when the heater core would go out and you just cut a square out of the vent inside the firewall and pull it out that way instead of going in up through the dash behind the glove box except you're cutting the hole in the opposite side of the firewall LOL
Sounds like a money pit!