How to Roll an Edge DIY Armoring
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- Опубликовано: 27 ноя 2014
- Here I show you how to roll an edge on your armor. It's a fairly simple process that adds strength to your armor, as well as giving it a finished look and protecting your skin.
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I see that you're finally moving onto more realistic armour making. I subscribed to you many years ago when you just made your first gauntlet video and that inspired me to go out and make my own armour. I started out with the template you made for that first gauntlet you made, but after that, I did some research on the internet and on forums and learned how to make all sorts of other armour components. I made a full plate cuirass and right arm including the pauldron.
I just wanted to thank you for posting that first video many years ago and getting me into this hobby. It's been a lot of fun.
I'm also glad that you're starting to make videos of actual techniques used in armour making rather than the more "cosplay" methods you used to show earlier.
Keep up the good work!
found you some days ago. i have to watch EVERY vid of you :D
Im doing Metal armor since a year or something (mostly with aluminim (1mm -1,5mm, works perfectly)) and these tutorials are so good and help me at some points
I get a lot of requests and questions about the music I have in the background of my videos. The song "Armor of Arius" is now available on my website www.armortemplates.com I wasn't able to make the file a free download but I made it as low as I could at 99 cents for anyone interested.
I'm in the process of making a costume for a renaissance fair in a few months, and I'm definitely gonna use this technique to shape the edges of my helmet. Thanks man!
Happy to help. You'll find it's a lot easier than it looks. Just go slow and you'll get perfect results
was trying to figure out a way to do this to my motorcycle fenders, great video!
Peak background music you've chosen!
love your choice of music
thx for this excellent tutorial
You have to heat up your brass, each time you hit it it becomes hard and thus makes your work harder. Also i'd clean the surfaces that come in contact with the metal to be worked. The finish on the hammer's face is directly responsible for the finish of the part, meaning, if it's full of holes and dings it will transfer to the work piece. I see some of that happening so it's either the hammer or the anvil, just buff it out.
It would be great to see how to roll the edge when there are corners.
Thanks.... patience and lots of hammering....
Dude...What CAMERA are you using...Resolution is sick!
Considering a Dark Souls Elite Knight cosplay, and if you could point me in the right direction on making it?
Drew Matthews Not sure why but there's no reply button on your comment to answer you. It's an old Canon T2i
That's awesome David. Would this work on a sheet metal pipe as well say 4" in diameter?
Thank you
It would be difficult to do the full perimeter of a pipe without heat I think. It might be possible though.
thanks for making these videos. I want to learn basic jewelry making techniques, esp. how to shape metals like bronze and silver but there are very few tutorials on the internet (for free). Do you think armoring techniques are applicable to smaller metal work?
Of course! I do some small decorative stuff for my armor, and you could definitely use the same techniques for jewelry
@@DavidGuyton I have another tip for rolling an edge, what I've done on my own armor is that I get a sharpie or something to mark it with then I get a seamer tool and bend it then I use an anvil to hammer it flat and I think it cuts the time to do it in half or even into thirds
I don’t have any expensive equipment but you inspiring me to try this stuff also without all the fancy stuff. Thank you!
One question, when I create the patterns I have to consider more for rolling the edge. How much would you calculate for the edge or how much did you add here for example?
Thanks!
It depends on how big you want the roll to be. Usually 1/4" to 3/8" is fine.
@@DavidGuyton thanks!
Very nice! I'm gonna try to make a Late Bronze Age breast plate and I'm considering rolling the edges around the armpits and the neck. Would you advise rolling the edges before or after bending the sheet metal into shape?
You'll have to get your basic shape into the sheet metal before you roll the edges. If you do it before, it will strengthen the edge so much that you won't be able to shape it. Also, if you are working with bronze rather than steel, you'll need to anneal it, and annealing for bronze is tricky because you have to quench it in water while still orange hot. Difficult to do with large pieces. See my latest Memento Mori mask tutorial for some info on bronze, and definitely check out Thak Ironworks for lots of relevant info on it.
@@DavidGuyton thanks for the tip. I’ll be working with brass, not Bronze.
I've seen some people roll the metal before shaping it. Is the way in your video still your preferred method?
if you roll it before shaping it, it is going to be very hard to shape it, since the rolled edge will be much stronger than flat metal at that spot. It's possible, in some cases, but this is the only way I would ever do it personally.
Awesome videos and great work. i made Gauntlet version2 for my first project and it was quite good. Have you ever thought about to upgrade you Gauntlet version2 to a full armored hand? (shoulder and elbow)
No but if you upgrade it on your own I would love to see it!
Im not good in designing templates or anything else like that bu this has been in my mind for a while. By the way would you like to see how my gauntlet looks?
sure I would! Feel free to post a video showing it off, or send me some pics through email
David Guyton
Id like to send a picture. Can you give your email too?
d@davidjguyton.com
Awesome vid! Question... making my first buckler. it's almost done but I'm not sure if I can roll the edge of the 2mm (about 14 gauge) steel. I don't really need to have it be pretty this is for HEMA (historical swordsmanship) practice, but I do want to beef it up. If I cvan't roll it properly, just hammering it down to make it thicker would even be okay. It's 2mm thick and about ten inches across, with a small boss cold hammered out in the center... Any advice?
That sounds pretty thick to me, but I am pretty sure it can be done. My only advice is to maybe try to do a sample piece before tackling tackling the real thing.
thanks! next time i shall use lighter steel lol.
@@thelonerider5644 thicker steel would be easy with a oxy acetylene torch
@@DagothChad Thanks. I'm gonna try that next time I make one,,, I know several folk with torches.
I would like to make cups out of my soup cans but can't figure out how to roll the sharp top edge.
Looking to buy steel for my first attempt at armor.
It won't be used for combat. Display/costume only.
20 gauge or 18?
Hot rolled or cold rolled steel?
20 and 18 are both fine in your case. I suggest 20 only because it's a little easier to shape and a lot easier to cut. When it comes to hot rolled and cold rolled, you won't really see much of a difference on your end. It's simply the manner in which they produce the steel. Cold rolled is more accurate in its thickness...but this is all on the manufacturing side. Either will be fine for armoring of this type. Definitely steer clear of stainless....not that it's a bad material, but it is much harder than steel and it is a very stubborn metal. It works just fine for gauntlets, etc, but if you want to dish something like a helmet or a shoulder piece, you will need to use heat to form it.
David Guyton
Can't click on any of the end plate images.
Have you made anything from aluminum?
Just brackets and stuff for hot rods. I don't use aluminum for armoring because it has a tendency to crack if it's worked too much without any annealing.
how would you do this on a piece to large to bring to the anvil?
You just have to get creative with holding the part at the anvil. I suppose if it's too big you could have a friend help hold it, but if you watch some of Eric Dube's videos, he does it with pieces as big as a breastplate, so it can be done
Thanks! I'm working on a vintage racecar body.
ohhhh...then definitely check out Ron Covell's channel if you haven't already. He literally makes them from scratch. So awesome
What type of steel are you using please?
I think this was stainless if I remember right. It's a lot easier in mild steel. You can do this with any metal though.
Trying to roll the edge of a 16 gauge steel shield. Cold.
It is hard, any tips? I have no access to a torch.
(I rolled the edges of a 16 gauge breast plate but that wasn't as hard. Maybe it's cause it is round? I've got the edge at a nearly 90 degree angle to the shield, but... just keep going I guess?
that's some thick stuff but it can be done cold. You just need to keep going. Try a few different hammers if you can. Some work better than others for different shapes. Weight of the hammer matters too.
@@DavidGuyton Thank you. It's been two days... I'm going slow because frankly the hammering and vibration are causing a lot of hand shock even w/ gloves. Guess I just gotta keep plugging. Would it be worth it to get a propane torch if I plan on doing more such projects? Or do you need a full on welder's torch to heat the metal right?
@@thelonerider9693 If you're going to do that, you can just use MAP gas (yellow bottle plumbers torch) But if the vibration is bothering you, you might want to also look at getting a set of hammers with a good rubber shock absorbing handle. I have some that are Auto Body Now brand but there are like 10 different brands that have the exact same hammers that are just rebranded. I think they were like $30 for a set of 5. Usually the wooden handled ones are what I recommend so that you can feel what is happening while working, but when you are doing dishing and heavy hammering, I suggest something with a fiberglass handle and a rubber grip.
@@DavidGuyton Thank you! That may be my main problem all my hammers are old second hand ones with wood handles! That should be an easy fix!
If you go too fast does it cause the metal to split at the bend?
You won't be able to go fast enough to make that happen. When metal cracks, it's because of work hardening the metal. This process is gentle enough that not enough hardening happens to worry about.
@@DavidGuyton I was practicing with some very thin steel scraps to work on the technique and the edges of the seam would sometimes split. I was thinking I was trying to get too much bend per hammer stroke. It could be the steel being sheet metal shop siding isn't the best material for reforming.
I'm going to keep trying and then upgrade my materials. Even when the metal isn't doing what I want it to I still find it to be relaxing.
@@asimpson164 yeah if I remember right that stuff is like 26 or 28 gauge. You need 20 or so (lower number is thicker). The thicker the metal, the easier it is to do (within reason, of course).
how does it give more strenght? i dont see the physics in this
Think of an I-beam you build buildings with. There are two flat pieces running parallel to each other, and one connecting the two together. If you just had one piece, it could bend in one direction. Since there is another connecting piece, oriented in a different direction, it prevents the entire I-beam from bending in ANY direction. This is the same principle. A rolled rim around the edge has metal oriented in several directions (being round), and is far stiffer than a flat piece of metal. If you want proof, find a piece of sheet metal and do like I do in the video, and you'll see right away how much stronger it is
Nice explanation, so the curved side of the metal plate is more rigid then the rest of the plate cause more force is needed to bend the curved part! Thx :D
Can I roll 14 gauge stainless steel?
Doubtful without heat. Stainless is very stubborn and 14ga is very thick.
I guess I can always can add leather trim :C@@DavidGuyton
Lazy man's way - get dog bowl with existing rolled edge, cut to shape. Less finger smashing that way!
I did the roll with some wire - for more volume edge! don't u need a cheap immigrant worker by the way:DDDD