Thank you for all the positive feedback on this video, there were a lot of questions in the comments, and I tried to answer all of them to the best of my knowledge. If you have a question be sure to write it down or check the comments there are a lot of already answered questions there. Also thank you for the subscribers and support. It really means a lot and helps me build my channel. :) Cheers
@IMA Bull The Arduino is powered through the USB port it's connected to. USB can't deliver enough power to also power the LEDs though, hence the separate power supply.
Excellent tutorial. All other tutorials I've read/watched so far use Hyperion and other over complicated stuff that have a very steep learning curve. I was almost giving up when I came across your very simple yet very useful tutorial. Very easy to implement. Very useful software and libraries. This tutorial is just amazing. Thanks a lot.
Great project and nice tutorial! What i really like about your "how-to" video, that is less than 10 min. Great job man! Excited to see more videos in the future.
+CuttyFlam thanks man I really appreciate it. I have a couple of things on the way from China at the moment, when they arrive I'll make a new video for sure. And have a couple of other projects on standby as well. Stay tuned :)
I liked the video and I haven’t even ordered anything yet ! Great tutorial, also great English!! Especially for a non native speaker! I’d be proud of that sir! From a Native English speaker!
Thank you for this guide! I didn't find all of the information I needed in the video but thanks to your replies in the comments, I figured it out. Thank you!
Thank you very much for your great work, everything is well explained and I was looking for a tutorial like this for a long time! I am going to start this small project and I hope that it will work neatly. Thank you again and hello from France!
The simplest, easiest, most explaining in simple words for nubies like me tutorial I ever watched! I closed every other seen after the 3rd minute 'cause everything was so Greek for me...though I am from Greece... :-D One question only: the same scheme will work for a 42'' TV...?? You see, I am using it as an HDMI connected screen on my PC right next to it..
I will definately give it a try since this ambilight effect is a favorite one, mine and my wife's. We love spending time at home watching movies. I hope it will not be a big trouble for you to enlighten me in case I stuck in any step.... Thank you in advance though, in any case. It was a great help already. Thumbs up! PS: I apologize for my proper english. :-)
This is possibly the most structured Ambilight tutorial I've come across. This will technically be my first electronics DIY, so this question may seem obvious: Does it work by itself connected to a TV? Will I be able to just connect this straight to my TV and it will work (after I apply settings)?
Thanks man it really means a lot. To answer your question, it will work on your TV if you connect your TV to the HDMI output of your PC and use it as a PC monitor, only then can it know what is exactly showing up on the screen and change the colors of the LED's. It is not meant to be used standalone I'm afraid and needs to be connected to the PC for feedback. I will make a standalone Ambilight system in the future, when I get my hands on a decent TV. But even then it has to have some sort of input from HDMI using a Raspberry Pi, HDMI splitter, AV capture device and of course the arduino. It's a bit more complicated and expensive build but will make it one day for sure :) This tutorial is only to be used for making an ambilight system for your PC monitor, or TV if it is used as a PC monitor. Hope this answered your question :)
Hello! It's me again. I bought the wrong type of LEDs, they all light up only one color. I'm planning to put them behind the couch anyway. Is it possible to have two systems? One that does average color and one around the monitor that does individual colors?
Nincadalop I have the same setup in my room. A Simple 4 pin, 12v, rbg strip with a separate power supply and controller mounted behind the couch and this ambilight system mounted on the monitor.
Yes I bought 2 1m strips as well... I'll be making an followup video soon. You can use L connectors for connecting the strips on the corners. Or straight ones for connecting two strips.
I really want to do this instead of the light berry which has a HDMI 1.4 converter which doesnt support 2k 144hz. This is also much more affordable. Thanks a lot for making this video
Don't know if you are still looking at this channel but i am wondering if my "thinking" is right, if the led strip i want to go for draws 18w per meter and i need 1.8 meters aka around 33w total. Then i would have to go for a 5v powersupply that can supply min 6.6 amps (33/5) right? and if so i doubt 24 gauge wire could support that or am i mistaken on how much it can take. From just looking around 24 gauge wire should not even support anything over 3.4 or similar. Please correct me if i am wrong which i most likely am about both the minimum amps and wire gauge.
I'm making a new video on this project. Where I fix the mistakes from this video. Yes you are right about the power consumption and it will be addressed in the new video
@@dusnoki Good to know, il stay tuned for that video as led strips are more complicated than i first thought. The setup i had in mind outside of ambilight of two 5 meter led strips needs power injection and everything.......
Check out my latest video where I fix some mistakes from this one and make the build a bit more user friendly. Without the need for soldering. ruclips.net/video/nzDnr76fZCc/видео.html
May I ask why a resistor wasn't used on the data line and if I were to use say 100 pixels/LED's on my setup and wanted to use a resistor on the data what would I be looking at with the strands in this video?
at 3:12 , the power supply cable is connected to the phone charger? How did that cable came about? isit a normal USB charging cable that you strip off on one end?
+DATMoment yeah sorry that is a cable I had laying around already. Just a USB charging cable with the micro USB part cut off and I'm only using the 5v and ground cables from it. You can check with the multimeter which of them they are.
Are there any TV's that have an HDMI video out feed? It seems that that would be the ultimate hook up with this. Because if you have a 'smart' TV you cant use the onboard apps and have them run on the LED back light.
Thanks very much! I want to know weather it could be used in the iPad? Or some led touch panel? If it’s Tv pc, does it need to connect with the computer??
Hello Thanks for this tutorial and I have a question So In device configration part, It is asking me the single LEDcurrent and The power supply current limit. I am using my arduino as my power supply I amsing the 5v port to energize the LED do you think it would matter
Could be many things... Faulty arduino, faulty strip, or software related. Maybe try reinstalling prismatic, using it on a different pc, change USB cable... Those are te easiest and cheapest to test.
@@dusnoki the led strip I bought says it needs 9w per meter. I have around 1,5 meters so I would need around 13,5w. The phone charger I use has 5V, 2A. Could this be the issue? Should I look for a 5V,3A charger?
Is there a max limit to the number of LEDs I want to do it around my entire room, for a chill-out room. Would it possibly work with up to 1200? I couldn't watch the full video with sound, so if you have already said in the video I apologize
I have realized a similar project but when I connect the esp8266 on the pc usb, pc monitor's blink and then all works ok. It is a short circuit? What can it be?
Check out my latest video where I fix some mistakes from this one and make the build a bit more user friendly. Without the need for soldering. ruclips.net/video/nzDnr76fZCc/видео.html
+Piece o' LEGO it does, but with more leds the processing power needed for calculating the average color of each block that is used to color up 1 led grows exponentially. Believe me. Even with 30leds/m it really looks awesome and you don't see the individual leds anyway. It is bright enough but if you thing 60 or 90 or 120 leds per meter will make you happy go for it :)
i want to connect my gaming consoles like playstation, xbox and if its iPad then what should we do. I am currently searching for that solution but cannot find it
This tutorial is only for PC at the moment, gonna create one that's universal, but that one costs a bit more and is more complex. Cause you need a raspberry pi and hdmi grabber/passthrough as well.
Hi will I need any additional power supply as I will be building for a 100 inch projector screen cheers, also will I need to do anything differently because of the size, I may not need to cut the strip as I will be sticking it on the edge and follow the screen round or do I need to cut it?
dmwmjj really don't know. Can't say anything for sure but you will need more than 2.5a for it. There is a w/m rating on the strip. Calculate how many meters and you get how much watts. Divide that by 5 and you will get amps. That is how much amp power supply you will need.
@@dusnoki cheers I will need 5m as I'm doing 3 sides only I'm guessing it will be fine as it is? Also will I still need to do any soldering if I'm not cutting the 5m strip?
Also forgot to mention I won't need to do any cutting so what power psu be enough to run 5m strip? Is Adriano nano enough or need something better? Sorry for all these questions but you seem to have the best video tutorial
Can you modified or tell me what I need to remove or change in the sketch in order to remove any flashing or any led lights turning on while waking or turning on computer. Ideally I want leds to turn on only when i start ambibox screen grabbing
Hi! I just ordered the parts in your description, is there anything else extra i would need? Meaning can i use the wires off the LED strip to use to solder? + what usb does the arduino use and does it come with it when i buy it? + I calculated that i have 98 LEDs what powersupply should i get? I have a 15-24V 6A charger but does it need to be 5V?
I have a question, from where it gonna sens video signals, there is no video signal input in diagram, if i make this project for my tv, how it will gonna sens HDMI signals, plz tell me, none of any video is showing this part, plz help me
i Just made it and its really looking awesome but i have a problem! Some leds wont respond according to color pixels in screen, i looked closely at them they do turn on but have very low brightness and wont change color correctly. So what could be the reason??
Sorry but I did not understand something with the connection. The white cable that appears in the 3.11 minute is the usb cable cut off and connected to the 5v transformer? So what about the arduino usb cable when everything is set up, disconnect the cable? Thanks Boris. Great Video!
the white cable is a USB cable with the microusb part cut off and I'm only using the 5V and GND cables from that cable. The ground is connected to the ground of the arduino and the ground of the strip. The 5V cable is connected to the 5V rail of the strip. A separate cable with mini usb is connected from the computer to the arduino, this usb connection powers the arduino and receives the data from the computer for which LED to turn on on the strip, with what intensity and what color. Hope this answers your question. It's my fault that in the picture I didn't connect the USB cable to the PC.
Boris Dusnoki Thank you for your answer. At the weekend I will put together according to your guide. If something goes wrong, then if I can, I will ask for help.
Boris Dusnoki Hello. I made Ambilight according to your guide and works without a problem. I'm going to record a movie of action and shout on RUclips. Can I put a link to your guide in your video? I still blocked the RGB test, I was annoyed by the continuous lighting of the LED when I started the computer. Thanks for the guide. Regards.
thanks a lot for the video, i set this up as described and it's great! however i'm having an issue, the refresh rate of my LED strip is very low, likely ~15 fps or so regardless of how i set the grab interval. if i set it too low, it seems the software or arduino falls behind and needs to catch up before it can go on, is that how it's supposed to work or is something wrong with my setup?
Hey dude, i have a question. How to set the max brightness in the Arduino code, because it is much safer to set the max brightness there, because my psu cant handle the much current. Any help would be great!
Hey man, I don't think that is a possibility, didn't see any option for that in the adalight sketch, rather use the prismatic software. It has an option for overall brightness of the LED Lights.
I am not super up on electrics, so I am trying to understand how the arduino gets it's power, does it all come from the GND? when the GND comes off the breadboard? Meaning I don't need to use the power connector on the ardunio board?
Hello, I would like to ask. I have USB hub on my monitor. Can I use USB hub as power supply for LED strip instead of phone charger like you did? Or is usb electric current too small for it?
Welcome. I have a question. Ambilight works well. But I have a problem when turning Netflix on Ambilight simply does not work. It does not capture the image. Is there some way for that?
Hi there, I;ve made two sets that are working 100% following your instructions. On the third I have a problem. 8 LEDs at the end of the strip have no power...Why? I've checked everything....
Hello, I made this for my setup and it's awesome. Just a question and a tip. Why did you connected the ground of arduino with the ground of power supply? I saw this thing even in other different project. I'm not good in electronics. Tip: I tried di tweak with Prisnatik software and I noticed that if I lower the grab frequency under 25ms, it add a lot of lag in the strip led, sometimes i saw a color 20 second after the monitor display it... Sorry for my English but I'm Italian!
Lowering the grab frequency might overwhelm the nano's COM "bandwidth" ( aka, you'll have queued color data to be sent to the board ). You need to remember that the nano has a fairly low transfer bitrate. 1 year late, I know.
With 0,3W/LED and 56 LED you will have a peak power comsumption of nearly 17 W. But you only recommend a 10 W Power supply. Does it work in all-white though?
hey, first off thanks for the tutorial, really easy to follow especially for a noob like me :) everything works great but the breadboard cables run so hot that after around a month the plastic covers melt and i have to keep replacing them. any idea what could be causing this? i am using all identical hardware as in your list. thanks!
@@dusnoki thanks for the quick reply. do you think there's anything i could do to fix the cables melting with my current setup or was this a common problem people ran into?
@@nonsenseiii use thicker gauge cables as the cables get hot due to current draw. Using thicker cables will allow for less resistance and allow current to flow without much heat.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think it depends on when the arduino was made. Read that if the arduino is made after a certain date it uses the new bootloader
Thanks a lot for the tutorial! Did it today and it even works, which was a huge relief that I did not mess anything up haha.. Do you have any suggestions on how to best setup the Prismatic software? Maybe you could even do a part2 video on it since a lot of people built this. So far I am experiencing a bit of a latency problem - the lights respond with small delay, which is not too bad, but can I get rid of it?
Alexander Steciuk I'm glad you had success :) congrats :) and I'm glad I helped a bit as well... I really didn't want to go too far into the prismatic setup cause really everyone needs to experiment with their pc and how they like to have their lights react to the display. It takes a bit of experimentation and I'm sure you will be able to figure it out. I didn't notice any huge latency issues yet but didn't look that hard at it. For me it works just fine for. My needs :)
hi, no idea if you still reply to queries, but I am trying to build this and I keep getting the error : In file included from C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/controller.h:9, from C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/FastLED.h:47, from Adalight_WS2812.ino:9: C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:54: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:63: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:65: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:54: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CHSV::CHSV()' C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:63: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CHSV::CHSV(const CHSV&)' C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:65: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CHSV& CHSV::operator=(const CHSV&)' C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:121: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:150: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:158: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:121: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CRGB::CRGB()' C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:150: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CRGB::CRGB(const CRGB&)' C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:158: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CRGB& CRGB::operator=(const CRGB&)' In file included from C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/FastLED.h:59, from Adalight_WS2812.ino:9: C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixelset.h:303: error: 'template class CPixelView' used without template parameters
Hi, first of all thanks for the tutorial, a little doubt, I have a 5V 1.9mA charger, will it work? And, the number of leds used does it not influence the power of the charger? Thank you in advance
You're very welcome :) I'm using a 2.1A 5v charger for 56 LED's. It does seem to be enough for this number of LED's but if you have more, then you should probably get a 3A one, or 4A, depending on how much you have.
OK ty, i will try it at home, i will put about 50 leds, so i will go for a 3A or 4A, i will post the result. Realy ty for the tutorial, your the best...
Thanks for the video, I've a question. Since the arduino requires the PC sending a lot of pictures to it, how much resource will it take from my computer? Is this task given to GPU or CPU? Is there any significant performance drop using this method than using a external HDMI graber and link it to a rosbery pi?
Yuch G no, thank you for watching :) I believe it's cpu driven but as I mentioned in a previous comment. If you dial dine the refresh rate fps you shouldn't have any big drops in performance. This is I believe the cheapest ambilight option but if you want to invest in a raspberry pi and hdmi grabber go ahead. It is a more complete system that way. Good luck in your build anyway :) cheers
The video is still definitely correct, I installed the system again on new windows and linux and both work fine. So you should be fine with following these steps. Good luck
Nice tutorial, Ill build one set for my gaming pc and one for my Virtual Pinball Arcade. Ill report back how it worked out in 1-2 months when the stuff has arrived.
Hey thanks, btw have you measured how much current the leds draw in practice? Aliexpress says 9 W per metre so your setup would draw 16,8 W with your 10 W charger. Ive ordered a 5w 4A power supply to be on the safe side with my 43 inch screen.
LikeWise the arduino must be connected to the pc USB, otherwise it cannot communicate which color the strip led would be. The strip led instead could be connected to the molex. I'm doing it these days, I'll send you a photo when I'm done. Sorry for my English, I'm Italian!
Hi, I am a total noob in electronics and please need help setting up the connections! Ive already tried many tutorials, troubleshooting but I still don’t get it to work. I have WS2801 LEDs, an Arduino Uno Chip and a 5v / 1 amp power cord. Side 1 from the LED strip (tried it with a strip with 66 LEDs and one with 29) is connected to the Arduino Uno (GND to GND, Clock to Pin 13 and DATA to PIN 11). Side 2 is connected to the power supply (Positive to positive and ground to ground). Arduino Uno is connected via USB to my PC. When I connect the cables from the LED strip to the Arduino the first LED lights light up, sometimes green, sometimes red, then disappear and get no more reaction. After I connect the power supply the LEDs don’t light up (I also don’t know if they should). I thought they could light up after installing the software and everything. So I proceeded and followed tutorials with Arduino software with which I also got no light… (but I probably also did something wrong, these tutorials are not made for noobs). Your help would be much appreciated!
I don't think this particular library supports ws2801led strip cause it has 4 pins (gnd, clk, data, 5v). But go and google adalight ws2801. Maybe you can find a library that supports it.
i have 2 setups Arduino, 1 controls the ambient light of main monitor using prismatik, another controls the 2nd monitor using ambibox. Is it possible to control both devices using prismatik ?
biwabel der Pinguin you can easily do it with 1 if your monitors are on a stand and or wall mount simply measure the led strip at the bottom to be a little longer so it has a bit of extra distance do this on both monitors and link the bottom strips between each monitor this can probably be achieved without a stand or mount while still looking great if your a little confused just ask i typed this up while heading out the door so might not be worded the best that it could’ve been :)
@@hczylos2432 Well the problem should not be the LED strips, but the information from the screens. If I have different colors on the two screens, the software is only able to get the info from one screen
Check out my latest video where I fix some mistakes from this one and make the build a bit more user friendly. Without the need for soldering. ruclips.net/video/nzDnr76fZCc/видео.html
it does not show in task bar(the bar at bottom of screen) it created shortcut when i installed it on desktop ,second time i try to open it says program isrunning, the sketch loads ok, its when i go to setup it will not open to the menu? my skill level low,
maybe something to do with timing of when i open it, you did the setup and instaiied prismatic first ,unclicked run at launch. Then you ran sketch, then you went back to set num led etc, that when it says application already running,
I'm trying to do this myself and I'm currently on the part where you tin the leads on the LEDs but my solder is like 14 gauge with a really bad soldering iron with like a blunt tip. Any tips to help me out? I'm trying to get some smaller solder. Also while i was soldering the arduino it took like an hour to get 4 good solders to the connections.
+milodudeful get a decent soldering iron. Doesn't have to be expensive. You can see the one I'm using in the description I have a link to Amazon. Also I'm using mostly under 1mm 60/40 led based solder. And if you still have problems try getting a Flux pen and dab the pads a bit before soldering. Makes it a lot easier. Hope it helps.
Alright so I just got some new smaller solder which is still on the larger side for electronics but it came with some water soluble flux in a tube and it works freaking amazingly like i dont even have to be spot on with dripping the solder it goes straight to the metal connections I just wish that the hardware stores near me had rosin core solder, but its such a niche market for those here. Also with how I was soldering before I came SO close to having some solder dripping down into the electronics of my monitor because of the air flow vents on the back of my monitor but luckily the plastic bonded with the solder, but now its like impossible to get it off :-/
Glad to hear you are getting better. Soldering is like that. The more you practice the better you become. I'll probably make a soldering video in the future, but would like to get started on some SMD soldering so I can include that in the video as well. Sad to hear about your monitor but that is a risk I suppose with soldering. You could solder the strips together when they are not attached to the monitor or use some L connectors for led strips (that I found out existed after I made the video).
Boris Dusnoki there's L connectors -_- but my soldering hasn't really improved I still suck but I learned that flux is improtant and makes things 100x easier for this
Volkstrauertag you can try. But if you get problems with the arduino, try switching to the arduino uno or mega. Not sure how it will perform. I'm only using 56 leds total on my whole 27'' monitor. Processing power will also increase. Check some forums about prismatic and use with more leds.
Thank you for your answer. I want to use a 40A 200W Power supply. Do you think the arduino nano could be too smal for this Action? If i use them, the arduino has to manage about 450 LEDs :D
Volkstrauertag I really can't tell you. Just saying if you have issues try getting an arduino with more processing power. That is what I would do. Maybe someone has more insights about this issue.
Dont forget that your amp draw will go up dramatically. You will need to feed power in multiple points to prevent burnout of the tracings on the first LED strip.
Thanks for the tutorial. Have question as well. Do you somehow connect together those 3 ground cables underneath in the bottom right corner of the breadboard or do you just pin them in and it magically works?
Check out my latest video where I fix some mistakes from this one and make the build a bit more user friendly. Without the need for soldering. ruclips.net/video/nzDnr76fZCc/видео.html
Hi Boris! I have some questions: 1. Will this work with AP102 leds, if yes what should I reconfigure especially in software configuration I see you use Adalight_WS2812 is there another one for AP102 leds? 2. On your windows pulpit for example at 3:51 what software are you using for showing the cpu/ram/hdd load? Big tnx for the video.
It does. It actually work off of the laptop usb power (separate plug to power the led's) only the brightness is a bit lower. I've recently made some small changes, and added a 5A 5V separate power supply that I originally bought but didn't use cause it arrived a month later than all the other parts. Will check the actual max power consumption when all the leds are white and write you here. And I'll make a small follow up video of what modifications I made to the project.
Strangely enough, I’ve got 5 volts going through the whole thing. Maybe it’s not making contact with the arduino via the breadboard? I’m completely new to arduino so hoping I can figure this out with my day off today
Is your charger still working as power supply? 1M of leds is 9W max so it should be around 1,8A per 1M. 27" inch monitor needs about 2 meters so 3,6A current. Seems way too much for 2.1A phone charger..
Yeah but my strip consumes less for some reason. Max current is less than 2A on max brightness and white color. Checked with multimeter. I originally ordered a 5A 5V power supply for this purpose but when I found out how little it actually consumes, just went with a phone charger instead.
Hi great video! Tutorial was easy to follow and I got mine working. I was wondering is there a sample template I can put on my monitor so i can see if the colors are illuminating off the wall correctly? Thank you!
how can i power this using usb 3.0 power? i don't want to run a separate power supply to run the LEDs. is usb 3.0/3.1 able to deliver the power to the leds?
what if i don't have a breadboard? can i plug the wires directly in the black slots on the arduino? i'm building this up this weekend, i would greatly appreciate any help! Thx!
The Cezz yeah that would work as well. If you have a bigger arduino you could connect everything in the headers. I just used a smaller one cause of the form factor. You could even use a pro mini with 5v.
@Boris Dusnoki Thanks! one more thing: does the "power supply ground" mean the V- output from the power supply, while the "power supply positive" is the V+ one? Without a breadboard, can i split the "power supply ground" into two wires and connect one to the LEDs and one to the arduino on the ground socket? I hope you understood what i meant, sorry i'm a total noob what it comest to electronics. Thanks again!
I need help. I have done this but with only strips on top and bottom. I have set it up the same im the program but the whole bottom strip lights the same colour as the top left quadrant. Lets say you split the screen into 4 quadrants. Quad 1 and 2 work great but quads 3 and 4 always copy 2. The result is it looks weird! Any advice?
That's really strange. I would first go with some example sketches from fast led to see if all the leds work fine. Then I would reinstall the whole prismatic software and start from scratch. People have had success with my setup and I've used it on multiple laptops and operating systems so it definitely works. Try reading the comments. Maybe some of them apply to you. That's all I can give you I'm afraid from over here. Good luck and let me know if you figured something out.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for all the positive feedback on this video, there were a lot of questions in the comments, and I tried to answer all of them to the best of my knowledge. If you have a question be sure to write it down or check the comments there are a lot of already answered questions there. Also thank you for the subscribers and support. It really means a lot and helps me build my channel. :) Cheers
@IMA Bull The Arduino is powered through the USB port it's connected to. USB can't deliver enough power to also power the LEDs though, hence the separate power supply.
Thank god there is actual CC on this - as a Deaf DIYer I finally have a new project I can try!
I did edit the automatic captions when I translated it to Serbian. Im glad it helped someone out :) good luck and have fun :)
Have to watch this every once a while to remind myself.
For some reason my mind always falls back and needs this.
Excellent tutorial.
All other tutorials I've read/watched so far use Hyperion and other over complicated stuff that have a very steep learning curve. I was almost giving up when I came across your very simple yet very useful tutorial. Very easy to implement. Very useful software and libraries. This tutorial is just amazing.
Thanks a lot.
Great project and nice tutorial! What i really like about your "how-to" video, that is less than 10 min. Great job man! Excited to see more videos in the future.
+CuttyFlam thanks man I really appreciate it. I have a couple of things on the way from China at the moment, when they arrive I'll make a new video for sure. And have a couple of other projects on standby as well. Stay tuned :)
I liked the video and I haven’t even ordered anything yet ! Great tutorial, also great English!! Especially for a non native speaker! I’d be proud of that sir! From a Native English speaker!
Thnx man. I really appreciate it :)
Thank you for this guide! I didn't find all of the information I needed in the video but thanks to your replies in the comments, I figured it out. Thank you!
Thank you very much for your great work, everything is well explained and I was looking for a tutorial like this for a long time!
I am going to start this small project and I hope that it will work neatly.
Thank you again and hello from France!
Gotta be the 1k member. Congrats.
I believe you are :) thanks so much for the support :)
The simplest, easiest, most explaining in simple words for nubies like me tutorial I ever watched!
I closed every other seen after the 3rd minute 'cause everything was so Greek for me...though I am from Greece... :-D
One question only: the same scheme will work for a 42'' TV...?? You see, I am using it as an HDMI connected screen on my PC right next to it..
Ιωάννης Νικλητσιώτης thanks man. Really appreciate it. Yes it is basically the same setup only with more led's.
I will definately give it a try since this ambilight effect is a favorite one, mine and my wife's.
We love spending time at home watching movies. I hope it will not be a big trouble for you to enlighten me in case I stuck in any step....
Thank you in advance though, in any case.
It was a great help already. Thumbs up!
PS: I apologize for my proper english. :-)
This is possibly the most structured Ambilight tutorial I've come across. This will technically be my first electronics DIY, so this question may seem obvious: Does it work by itself connected to a TV? Will I be able to just connect this straight to my TV and it will work (after I apply settings)?
Thanks man it really means a lot. To answer your question, it will work on your TV if you connect your TV to the HDMI output of your PC and use it as a PC monitor, only then can it know what is exactly showing up on the screen and change the colors of the LED's. It is not meant to be used standalone I'm afraid and needs to be connected to the PC for feedback. I will make a standalone Ambilight system in the future, when I get my hands on a decent TV. But even then it has to have some sort of input from HDMI using a Raspberry Pi, HDMI splitter, AV capture device and of course the arduino. It's a bit more complicated and expensive build but will make it one day for sure :)
This tutorial is only to be used for making an ambilight system for your PC monitor, or TV if it is used as a PC monitor.
Hope this answered your question :)
Boris Dusnoki That's unfortunate, but at least it won't be too much trouble to plug it to my laptop. Thank you for the quick response!
Nincadalop you're very welcome. Glad to help :)
Hello! It's me again. I bought the wrong type of LEDs, they all light up only one color. I'm planning to put them behind the couch anyway. Is it possible to have two systems? One that does average color and one around the monitor that does individual colors?
Nincadalop I have the same setup in my room. A Simple 4 pin, 12v, rbg strip with a separate power supply and controller mounted behind the couch and this ambilight system mounted on the monitor.
Hey, can I buy two 1m stripes and connect them together? Because they are cheaper than 2m stripe, also is it possible to just bend it without cutting?
Yes I bought 2 1m strips as well... I'll be making an followup video soon. You can use L connectors for connecting the strips on the corners. Or straight ones for connecting two strips.
I really want to do this instead of the light berry which has a HDMI 1.4 converter which doesnt support 2k 144hz. This is also much more affordable. Thanks a lot for making this video
You're very welcome :) Good luck!
+Boris Dusnoki thanks to you i actually did this project about 4 months ago and its amazing, thanks again.
@@8cow945 does it work fully in 1440p?
Don't know if you are still looking at this channel but i am wondering if my "thinking" is right, if the led strip i want to go for draws 18w per meter and i need 1.8 meters aka around 33w total. Then i would have to go for a 5v powersupply that can supply min 6.6 amps (33/5) right? and if so i doubt 24 gauge wire could support that or am i mistaken on how much it can take. From just looking around 24 gauge wire should not even support anything over 3.4 or similar. Please correct me if i am wrong which i most likely am about both the minimum amps and wire gauge.
I'm making a new video on this project. Where I fix the mistakes from this video. Yes you are right about the power consumption and it will be addressed in the new video
@@dusnoki Good to know, il stay tuned for that video as led strips are more complicated than i first thought. The setup i had in mind outside of ambilight of two 5 meter led strips needs power injection and everything.......
Check out my latest video where I fix some mistakes from this one and make the build a bit more user friendly. Without the need for soldering.
ruclips.net/video/nzDnr76fZCc/видео.html
Hello! I’m pretty new on this kind of DIY projects, so I have a question, it is possible to use an old arduino one board for this project?
Yeah it's has the same chip as nano
Is this possible to make with RGB+CCT strips for more accurate colors or only with standart RGB leds ?
I have a strange problem, only the right half of the monitor is evaluated and given to all the LEDs. I would appreciate it if you could help me.
So for the usb power supply, did you just strip a usb cable and use the positive and ground there?
Exactly
May I ask why a resistor wasn't used on the data line and if I were to use say 100 pixels/LED's on my setup and wanted to use a resistor on the data what would I be looking at with the strands in this video?
at 3:12 , the power supply cable is connected to the phone charger? How did that cable came about? isit a normal USB charging cable that you strip off on one end?
+DATMoment yeah sorry that is a cable I had laying around already. Just a USB charging cable with the micro USB part cut off and I'm only using the 5v and ground cables from it. You can check with the multimeter which of them they are.
Boris Dusnoki da li je moguce da moze da radi samo sa 2a posto su ovakve trake vrlo dobro poznate da trose mnogo struje.
Would this work on a TV?
Does this also work with one monitor in a multimonitor setup?
Yes it does. That's how I use it.
Are there any TV's that have an HDMI video out feed? It seems that that would be the ultimate hook up with this. Because if you have a 'smart' TV you cant use the onboard apps and have them run on the LED back light.
Thanks very much! I want to know weather it could be used in the iPad? Or some led touch panel? If it’s Tv pc, does it need to connect with the computer??
Hello Thanks for this tutorial and I have a question So In device configration part, It is asking me the single LEDcurrent and The power supply current limit. I am using my arduino as my power supply I amsing the 5v port to energize the LED do you think it would matter
Isn't it a bad idea to directly solder onto the plastic of the screen?
I followed your tutorial and it worked. However sometimes the LEDs get stuck in one color and stop changing. Do you know what could be causing this?
Could be many things... Faulty arduino, faulty strip, or software related. Maybe try reinstalling prismatic, using it on a different pc, change USB cable... Those are te easiest and cheapest to test.
@@dusnoki the led strip I bought says it needs 9w per meter. I have around 1,5 meters so I would need around 13,5w. The phone charger I use has 5V, 2A. Could this be the issue? Should I look for a 5V,3A charger?
Is there a max limit to the number of LEDs I want to do it around my entire room, for a chill-out room. Would it possibly work with up to 1200? I couldn't watch the full video with sound, so if you have already said in the video I apologize
I have realized a similar project but when I connect the esp8266 on the pc usb, pc monitor's blink and then all works ok. It is a short circuit? What can it be?
hi. there is no custom settings for my prismatik. so i can not use it 4 sides with right place and color.
Did you download the correct version?
@@dusnoki 5.11.3 version is on my pc.
Check out my latest video where I fix some mistakes from this one and make the build a bit more user friendly. Without the need for soldering.
ruclips.net/video/nzDnr76fZCc/видео.html
Do you not need a capacitor and a resistor?
6:18 why don't i have those options to set it custom?
Did you cut a usb cable to connect the power ?
Yes I did. But I'm making a followup video now to fix the mistakes I did on the first project. So make sure you stay tuned for that one. Cheers
@@dusnoki Just started this project and I can't get it working, asked questions in discord so hopefully that video will help
@@dusnoki Awesome! Any idea when you're done/when you're uploading it? Can't wait!
this would probably look even better with more leds/meter don't you think? is there a maximum that the software supports?
+Piece o' LEGO it does, but with more leds the processing power needed for calculating the average color of each block that is used to color up 1 led grows exponentially. Believe me. Even with 30leds/m it really looks awesome and you don't see the individual leds anyway. It is bright enough but if you thing 60 or 90 or 120 leds per meter will make you happy go for it :)
i have this done by a professional, but only the first segment of the leds responds. do you have any idea why? thanks!
i want to connect my gaming consoles like playstation, xbox and if its iPad then what should we do. I am currently searching for that solution but cannot find it
This tutorial is only for PC at the moment, gonna create one that's universal, but that one costs a bit more and is more complex. Cause you need a raspberry pi and hdmi grabber/passthrough as well.
❤️❤️❤️ Love it, can't wait for that one, as you explained this Soo nicely i can't wait to see how deeply you will do that one as it be an instant hit
Thanks man. It's in the works :)
Hi will I need any additional power supply as I will be building for a 100 inch projector screen cheers, also will I need to do anything differently because of the size, I may not need to cut the strip as I will be sticking it on the edge and follow the screen round or do I need to cut it?
dmwmjj really don't know. Can't say anything for sure but you will need more than 2.5a for it. There is a w/m rating on the strip. Calculate how many meters and you get how much watts. Divide that by 5 and you will get amps. That is how much amp power supply you will need.
@@dusnoki cheers I will need 5m as I'm doing 3 sides only I'm guessing it will be fine as it is?
Also will I still need to do any soldering if I'm not cutting the 5m strip?
Also forgot to mention I won't need to do any cutting so what power psu be enough to run 5m strip?
Is Adriano nano enough or need something better? Sorry for all these questions but you seem to have the best video tutorial
Is there a music reactive mode with this setup?
Can you modified or tell me what I need to remove or change in the sketch in order to remove any flashing or any led lights turning on while waking or turning on computer. Ideally I want leds to turn on only when i start ambibox screen grabbing
is 2.1 volt enough to power up 56 less??
in my set up there are 86 less , how much amp do I need?
This is working also with the Uno R3, correct?
Hi! I just ordered the parts in your description, is there anything else extra i would need? Meaning can i use the wires off the LED strip to use to solder? + what usb does the arduino use and does it come with it when i buy it? + I calculated that i have 98 LEDs what powersupply should i get? I have a 15-24V 6A charger but does it need to be 5V?
I have a question, from where it gonna sens video signals, there is no video signal input in diagram, if i make this project for my tv, how it will gonna sens HDMI signals, plz tell me, none of any video is showing this part, plz help me
Because it only works with a PC connected to the arduino. I'll make a standalone one soon with a raspberry pi and an hdmi splitter and receiver.
Thanks for the reply, am very thankful to you, and I am waiting for your next project with raspberry pie
i Just made it and its really looking awesome but i have a problem!
Some leds wont respond according to color pixels in screen, i looked closely at them they do turn on but have very low brightness and wont change color correctly. So what could be the reason??
Sorry but I did not understand something with the connection.
The white cable that appears in the 3.11 minute is the usb cable cut off and connected to the 5v transformer?
So what about the arduino usb cable when everything is set up, disconnect the cable?
Thanks Boris. Great Video!
the white cable is a USB cable with the microusb part cut off and I'm only using the 5V and GND cables from that cable. The ground is connected to the ground of the arduino and the ground of the strip. The 5V cable is connected to the 5V rail of the strip. A separate cable with mini usb is connected from the computer to the arduino, this usb connection powers the arduino and receives the data from the computer for which LED to turn on on the strip, with what intensity and what color. Hope this answers your question. It's my fault that in the picture I didn't connect the USB cable to the PC.
so, you use 2 cables. one for the arduino and one to power the lights.
Hi, I clicked on the AliExpress link for the RGB strip and there are a ton of options. Any recommendations for which to use?
Hello. And is it possible to do Amblight but without the bottom edge of the monitor? I care about the two side and top edges.
Davvvi1 of course it's possible. It's all doable in the software.
Boris Dusnoki Thank you for your answer. At the weekend I will put together according to your guide. If something goes wrong, then if I can, I will ask for help.
Good luck man! Thanks for the support :) Cheers
Boris Dusnoki Hello. I made Ambilight according to your guide and works without a problem. I'm going to record a movie of action and shout on RUclips. Can I put a link to your guide in your video? I still blocked the RGB test, I was annoyed by the continuous lighting of the LED when I started the computer. Thanks for the guide. Regards.
Glad I helped out. Of course you can put my link, I would even appreciate it. Keep up the good work.
thanks a lot for the video, i set this up as described and it's great! however i'm having an issue, the refresh rate of my LED strip is very low, likely ~15 fps or so regardless of how i set the grab interval. if i set it too low, it seems the software or arduino falls behind and needs to catch up before it can go on, is that how it's supposed to work or is something wrong with my setup?
Hey dude, i have a question. How to set the max brightness in the Arduino code, because it is much safer to set the max brightness there, because my psu cant handle the much current. Any help would be great!
Hey man, I don't think that is a possibility, didn't see any option for that in the adalight sketch, rather use the prismatic software. It has an option for overall brightness of the LED Lights.
I am not super up on electrics, so I am trying to understand how the arduino gets it's power,
does it all come from the GND? when the GND comes off the breadboard? Meaning I don't need to use the power connector on the ardunio board?
C B m
The arduino gets its power via the USB connection to your computer
IT WORKS! AWESOME🔥🔥!
Stevemaggio00 great job man :) glad I helped 😁
Hello, I would like to ask. I have USB hub on my monitor. Can I use USB hub as power supply for LED strip instead of phone charger like you did? Or is usb electric current too small for it?
Nooo. It really needs a separate 5v I would say minimum 3a charger for the strip. Depending on the number of leds you have
Hi I use ambilight on my LED TV can you possible how to connect please explain
How is the arduino connected to the monitor or pc? is it constantly sending data to the arduino over USB?
Exactly
+Boris dusnoki excellent tutorial.... for the power supply
would i be able to use a cut usb wire for power & ground?
red 5v black GND?
liquidco2 yes you would. That's how I'm doing. But check with the multimeter for any case. Which of the 4 wires is which.
Thank you for the reply, I've ordered my parts now just waiting on delivery from china
You're very welcome. Thank you so much, it really means a lot :) Cheers
Welcome. I have a question. Ambilight works well. But I have a problem when turning Netflix on Ambilight simply does not work. It does not capture the image. Is there some way for that?
Davvvi1 weird. Don't use Netflix so can't help u there
I know that you can't record Netflix with a recording software... Maybe the program isn't able to either
Hi there,
I;ve made two sets that are working 100% following your instructions. On the third I have a problem. 8 LEDs at the end of the strip have no power...Why? I've checked everything....
Maybe the strip is defective. It can happen.
Thanks for reply. I've added another strip after last working led. Still the same...
Hello, I made this for my setup and it's awesome. Just a question and a tip. Why did you connected the ground of arduino with the ground of power supply? I saw this thing even in other different project. I'm not good in electronics.
Tip: I tried di tweak with Prisnatik software and I noticed that if I lower the grab frequency under 25ms, it add a lot of lag in the strip led, sometimes i saw a color 20 second after the monitor display it... Sorry for my English but I'm Italian!
Lowering the grab frequency might overwhelm the nano's COM "bandwidth" ( aka, you'll have queued color data to be sent to the board ). You need to remember that the nano has a fairly low transfer bitrate.
1 year late, I know.
Can you do this with 12v RGB strips too? :(
Which strip did you buy?
What would you recommend for a triple monitor setup? Just this but 3 times or one big one
Doesn't support multiple monitors.
With 0,3W/LED and 56 LED you will have a peak power comsumption of nearly 17 W. But you only recommend a 10 W Power supply. Does it work in all-white though?
hey, first off thanks for the tutorial, really easy to follow especially for a noob like me :) everything works great but the breadboard cables run so hot that after around a month the plastic covers melt and i have to keep replacing them. any idea what could be causing this? i am using all identical hardware as in your list. thanks!
Check out my latest video where I fixed a couple of issues with the first one.
@@dusnoki thanks for the quick reply. do you think there's anything i could do to fix the cables melting with my current setup or was this a common problem people ran into?
@@nonsenseiii use thicker gauge cables as the cables get hot due to current draw. Using thicker cables will allow for less resistance and allow current to flow without much heat.
@@AbdulRahman-ju6wk you mean the breadboard cables right?
@@nonsenseiii yep, I have burned a couple of cables myself using them with the Arduino but thicker wires worked for me hope it helps you too!
so if i get this right it only works as ambilight on ur pc i cant just plug it into my smart tv usb port and it work?
IMPORTANT: In order to use the Aliexpress Arduino Nano, you must select ATMega328P (old bootloader) in Tools > Processor.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think it depends on when the arduino was made. Read that if the arduino is made after a certain date it uses the new bootloader
Does it work for games on the pc as well?
Tim Cornils sure does :)
Boris Dusnoki without fps drops etc.?
Tim Cornils that I can't guarantee. I've since then only tested out hearthstone that is not that dramatic with fps. My pc isn't meant for gaming.
Okay ill try it and thanks for this tutorial and fast answer👌👍
works in games but loss of 10-15 fps
any way to set up a second controller to control other lights near the system
Thanks a lot for the tutorial! Did it today and it even works, which was a huge relief that I did not mess anything up haha..
Do you have any suggestions on how to best setup the Prismatic software? Maybe you could even do a part2 video on it since a lot of people built this.
So far I am experiencing a bit of a latency problem - the lights respond with small delay, which is not too bad, but can I get rid of it?
Alexander Steciuk I'm glad you had success :) congrats :) and I'm glad I helped a bit as well... I really didn't want to go too far into the prismatic setup cause really everyone needs to experiment with their pc and how they like to have their lights react to the display. It takes a bit of experimentation and I'm sure you will be able to figure it out. I didn't notice any huge latency issues yet but didn't look that hard at it. For me it works just fine for. My needs :)
can i use ws2811 ??
Yes you can. Adalight supports it.
hi, no idea if you still reply to queries, but I am trying to build this and I keep getting the error :
In file included from C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/controller.h:9,
from C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/FastLED.h:47,
from Adalight_WS2812.ino:9:
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:54: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:63: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:65: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:54: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CHSV::CHSV()'
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:63: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CHSV::CHSV(const CHSV&)'
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:65: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CHSV& CHSV::operator=(const CHSV&)'
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:121: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:150: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:158: error: invalid pure specifier (only `= 0' is allowed) before ';' token
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:121: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CRGB::CRGB()'
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:150: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CRGB::CRGB(const CRGB&)'
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixeltypes.h:158: error: initializer specified for non-virtual method 'CRGB& CRGB::operator=(const CRGB&)'
In file included from C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/FastLED.h:59,
from Adalight_WS2812.ino:9:
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\FastLED\src/pixelset.h:303: error: 'template class CPixelView' used without template parameters
Hi, first of all thanks for the tutorial, a little doubt, I have a 5V 1.9mA charger, will it work? And, the number of leds used does it not influence the power of the charger?
Thank you in advance
You're very welcome :) I'm using a 2.1A 5v charger for 56 LED's. It does seem to be enough for this number of LED's but if you have more, then you should probably get a 3A one, or 4A, depending on how much you have.
OK ty, i will try it at home, i will put about 50 leds, so i will go for a 3A or 4A, i will post the result. Realy ty for the tutorial, your the best...
Hugues Faria for 50 leds 3A should be enough. I would put a 3A supply but all I had lying around was a 2.1A one. Good luck man :)
Thanks for the video, I've a question. Since the arduino requires the PC sending a lot of pictures to it, how much resource will it take from my computer? Is this task given to GPU or CPU? Is there any significant performance drop using this method than using a external HDMI graber and link it to a rosbery pi?
Yuch G no, thank you for watching :) I believe it's cpu driven but as I mentioned in a previous comment. If you dial dine the refresh rate fps you shouldn't have any big drops in performance. This is I believe the cheapest ambilight option but if you want to invest in a raspberry pi and hdmi grabber go ahead. It is a more complete system that way. Good luck in your build anyway :) cheers
can u use a NodeMCU instead of an Arduino Nano?
Does it work also for samsung smart tv?
Hello Boris the LED lights ws2812b must be attached to the TV to check the effect if it works?
Well you can check them out on their own. Just you need to count which led is producing which color and match it to your screen
I was told by an Italian youtube that the green wire should be connected to the D2 and true? Or should you put it on d5 as you did?
PASQUALE GRECO if you set up your sketch to use d2 than you can use d2. I set it up to use d5. D5 is tested and works on arduino nano.
Then I follow you with the sketch.
The video is still definitely correct, I installed the system again on new windows and linux and both work fine. So you should be fine with following these steps. Good luck
Nice tutorial, Ill build one set for my gaming pc and one for my Virtual Pinball Arcade.
Ill report back how it worked out in 1-2 months when the stuff has arrived.
zweck4629 good luck man. Glad you liked it :)
Hey thanks, btw have you measured how much current the leds draw in practice?
Aliexpress says 9 W per metre so your setup would draw 16,8 W with your 10 W charger.
Ive ordered a 5w 4A power supply to be on the safe side with my 43 inch screen.
hey did you ever build yours? I have a 42in so was wondering how yours turned out
mine have 7 leds blue and the rest does nothing. do you know why?
can we make it standalone? maybe with a pi or so??
Rons Rosenquist that is the next step yes. But I'm going to make a separate project for the TV... When I get one :)
Boris Dusnoki great! How do I keep updated? Or even better how can I help :)
You can consider subscribing :)
i have a question, could i power the arduino and the led strip using molex? i want to plug it to my power supply THANKS!
yes, you need the red (5v) and black cable (gnd)! do not use the yellow one becouse it's 12v
Luigi Renzella but how usb to the two wires u said?
LikeWise the arduino must be connected to the pc USB, otherwise it cannot communicate which color the strip led would be. The strip led instead could be connected to the molex. I'm doing it these days, I'll send you a photo when I'm done. Sorry for my English, I'm Italian!
Luigi Renzella no actually ur english is good, ow i get it thanks!
works perfect - THANKS !!! i used arduino uno
I'm so glad to hear that :) arduino uno is basically a nano just bigger :)
Hi, I am a total noob in electronics and please need help setting up the connections! Ive already tried many tutorials, troubleshooting but I still don’t get it to work.
I have WS2801 LEDs, an Arduino Uno Chip and a 5v / 1 amp power cord.
Side 1 from the LED strip (tried it with a strip with 66 LEDs and one with 29) is connected to the Arduino Uno (GND to GND, Clock to Pin 13 and DATA to PIN 11).
Side 2 is connected to the power supply (Positive to positive and ground to ground).
Arduino Uno is connected via USB to my PC.
When I connect the cables from the LED strip to the Arduino the first LED lights light up, sometimes green, sometimes red, then disappear and get no more reaction. After I connect the power supply the LEDs don’t light up (I also don’t know if they should).
I thought they could light up after installing the software and everything. So I proceeded and followed tutorials with Arduino software with which I also got no light… (but I probably also did something wrong, these tutorials are not made for noobs).
Your help would be much appreciated!
I don't think this particular library supports ws2801led strip cause it has 4 pins (gnd, clk, data, 5v). But go and google adalight ws2801. Maybe you can find a library that supports it.
i have 2 setups Arduino, 1 controls the ambient light of main monitor using prismatik, another controls the 2nd monitor using ambibox. Is it possible to control both devices using prismatik ?
One of the best tutorials I've seen so far.
What would you suggest if I wanted to create an ambilight on two screens simultaneously?
biwabel der Pinguin for dual monitors?
@@hczylos2432 Yes, two screens simultaneously. Guess it needs different software that supports two screens
biwabel der Pinguin you can easily do it with 1 if your monitors are on a stand and or wall mount simply measure the led strip at the bottom to be a little longer so it has a bit of extra distance do this on both monitors and link the bottom strips between each monitor this can probably be achieved without a stand or mount while still looking great if your a little confused just ask i typed this up while heading out the door so might not be worded the best that it could’ve been :)
@@hczylos2432 Well the problem should not be the LED strips, but the information from the screens. If I have different colors on the two screens, the software is only able to get the info from one screen
Check out my latest video where I fix some mistakes from this one and make the build a bit more user friendly. Without the need for soldering.
ruclips.net/video/nzDnr76fZCc/видео.html
thanks for the video, got as far as prismatic,will not open to setup anything says program is already running? need help
Peadar Dunworth try right clicking on the icon in the task bar
And on setup or something like that.
it does not show in task bar(the bar at bottom of screen) it created shortcut when i installed it on desktop ,second time i try to open it says program isrunning, the sketch loads ok, its when i go to setup it will not open to the menu? my skill level low,
then i got the PRISMATIK APP on my phone, no joy there
got it to task bar but same story,
maybe something to do with timing of when i open it, you did the setup and instaiied prismatic first ,unclicked run at launch. Then you ran sketch, then you went back to set num led etc, that when it says application already running,
I'm trying to do this myself and I'm currently on the part where you tin the leads on the LEDs but my solder is like 14 gauge with a really bad soldering iron with like a blunt tip. Any tips to help me out? I'm trying to get some smaller solder. Also while i was soldering the arduino it took like an hour to get 4 good solders to the connections.
+milodudeful get a decent soldering iron. Doesn't have to be expensive. You can see the one I'm using in the description I have a link to Amazon. Also I'm using mostly under 1mm 60/40 led based solder. And if you still have problems try getting a Flux pen and dab the pads a bit before soldering. Makes it a lot easier. Hope it helps.
Alright so I just got some new smaller solder which is still on the larger side for electronics but it came with some water soluble flux in a tube and it works freaking amazingly like i dont even have to be spot on with dripping the solder it goes straight to the metal connections I just wish that the hardware stores near me had rosin core solder, but its such a niche market for those here. Also with how I was soldering before I came SO close to having some solder dripping down into the electronics of my monitor because of the air flow vents on the back of my monitor but luckily the plastic bonded with the solder, but now its like impossible to get it off :-/
Glad to hear you are getting better. Soldering is like that. The more you practice the better you become. I'll probably make a soldering video in the future, but would like to get started on some SMD soldering so I can include that in the video as well. Sad to hear about your monitor but that is a risk I suppose with soldering. You could solder the strips together when they are not attached to the monitor or use some L connectors for led strips (that I found out existed after I made the video).
Boris Dusnoki there's L connectors -_- but my soldering hasn't really improved I still suck but I learned that flux is improtant and makes things 100x easier for this
Hi Boris, I want to use ws2812b with 144 led/m. Does it works?
I think the Resolution should be much better with 144 instead of your 30 led/m setup.
Volkstrauertag you can try. But if you get problems with the arduino, try switching to the arduino uno or mega. Not sure how it will perform. I'm only using 56 leds total on my whole 27'' monitor. Processing power will also increase. Check some forums about prismatic and use with more leds.
Thank you for your answer. I want to use a 40A 200W Power supply. Do you think the arduino nano could be too smal for this Action?
If i use them, the arduino has to manage about 450 LEDs :D
Volkstrauertag I really can't tell you. Just saying if you have issues try getting an arduino with more processing power. That is what I would do. Maybe someone has more insights about this issue.
Dont forget that your amp draw will go up dramatically. You will need to feed power in multiple points to prevent burnout of the tracings on the first LED strip.
hi awesome work! question, is this only working for PC monitors? not TV?
Thanks for the tutorial. Have question as well. Do you somehow connect together those 3 ground cables underneath in the bottom right corner of the breadboard or do you just pin them in and it magically works?
+Dzin Jak yes they are all connected in one corner of the breadboard
So I assume you just pin them in without doing anything. That was one quick response. Thanks!
Alternatively when looking back, you can add all the grounds to 1 rail of the breadboard where it says gnd on the arduino.
Is it possible to do it with wifi Wemos d1 insted of arduino nano? Or both at the same time?
Check out my latest video where I fix some mistakes from this one and make the build a bit more user friendly. Without the need for soldering.
ruclips.net/video/nzDnr76fZCc/видео.html
For the esp8266 you need a logic level shifter as well.
Hi Boris! I have some questions:
1. Will this work with AP102 leds, if yes what should I reconfigure especially in software configuration I see you use Adalight_WS2812 is there another one for AP102 leds?
2. On your windows pulpit for example at 3:51 what software are you using for showing the cpu/ram/hdd load?
Big tnx for the video.
1. Not sure about those LEDs as I don't have them and can't test it out.
2. Rainmeter software
And you're very welcome. Glad you liked it :)
Thank you, could you please tell what exact rainmeter skin it is?
I think that the best way it would be to connect it to Computer PSU 5V, what do you think?
It could work. Just depends on how much amps does the particular psu put out on 5v, how long the strip is and how many leds/m
Does the 5V 2.1A phone charger really power all those LEDs? I figure it would need a higher amperage to properly power it?
It does. It actually work off of the laptop usb power (separate plug to power the led's) only the brightness is a bit lower. I've recently made some small changes, and added a 5A 5V separate power supply that I originally bought but didn't use cause it arrived a month later than all the other parts. Will check the actual max power consumption when all the leds are white and write you here. And I'll make a small follow up video of what modifications I made to the project.
Thanks, I'm following your video now as we speak to get the software up and running. Fingers crossed I did an okay soldering job!
wert564austin1 great job. Fingers crossed. Good kuck
Just tried firing it up, but unfortunately not a single LED lights up :( gonna have to go back through with a multimeter and see if all is well
Strangely enough, I’ve got 5 volts going through the whole thing. Maybe it’s not making contact with the arduino via the breadboard? I’m completely new to arduino so hoping I can figure this out with my day off today
Is your charger still working as power supply? 1M of leds is 9W max so it should be around 1,8A per 1M. 27" inch monitor needs about 2 meters so 3,6A current. Seems way too much for 2.1A phone charger..
Yeah but my strip consumes less for some reason. Max current is less than 2A on max brightness and white color. Checked with multimeter. I originally ordered a 5A 5V power supply for this purpose but when I found out how little it actually consumes, just went with a phone charger instead.
Thanks for fast answer, i will try that out.
It supports 2811 led strip ?
Hi great video! Tutorial was easy to follow and I got mine working. I was wondering is there a sample template I can put on my monitor so i can see if the colors are illuminating off the wall correctly? Thank you!
Yes you can. I will create a Screenshot when I get to the PC. If you want to join my discord channel I can send you a private message there.
@@dusnoki yes please. Actually I guess I can just make one in photoshop, but I'm interested in joining... Thank you!
+Boris Dusnocki Jel ovo radi kad npr. igram igrice ili gledam neki video, da radi i ambilight? I jel treba samo da bude povezano USB kablom u PC?
Radi naravno. I da mora biti povezan.
how can i power this using usb 3.0 power? i don't want to run a separate power supply to run the LEDs. is usb 3.0/3.1 able to deliver the power to the leds?
I have problem with my led strip, It reverses from bottom right to left right, same with the sides. How can i fix it ?
+Phuc Nguyen not quite sure why you mean exactly. Did you follow the arrows on the strip so that they all point in one direction?
what if i don't have a breadboard? can i plug the wires directly in the black slots on the arduino? i'm building this up this weekend, i would greatly appreciate any help! Thx!
The Cezz yeah that would work as well. If you have a bigger arduino you could connect everything in the headers. I just used a smaller one cause of the form factor. You could even use a pro mini with 5v.
@Boris Dusnoki
Thanks! one more thing: does the "power supply ground" mean the V- output from the power supply, while the "power supply positive" is the V+ one? Without a breadboard, can i split the "power supply ground" into two wires and connect one to the LEDs and one to the arduino on the ground socket? I hope you understood what i meant, sorry i'm a total noob what it comest to electronics. Thanks again!
Any way to get it workin with a mac or is the software just out for windows?
Yes, you have a .deb package of prismatik on their github page.
I need help. I have done this but with only strips on top and bottom. I have set it up the same im the program but the whole bottom strip lights the same colour as the top left quadrant. Lets say you split the screen into 4 quadrants. Quad 1 and 2 work great but quads 3 and 4 always copy 2. The result is it looks weird! Any advice?
That's really strange. I would first go with some example sketches from fast led to see if all the leds work fine. Then I would reinstall the whole prismatic software and start from scratch. People have had success with my setup and I've used it on multiple laptops and operating systems so it definitely works. Try reading the comments. Maybe some of them apply to you. That's all I can give you I'm afraid from over here. Good luck and let me know if you figured something out.
Boris Dusnoki thanks, i will try this