After a year I finally ordered all the parts and built mine. Thank you! I was really impressed by the colour accuracy and overall function. Your tutorial was a pleasure to work with and everything worked out first try. Big kudos! Fun mini project with absolutely insane effect!
@@dusnoki my only problem is that the Ambilight isnt powering off itself. I need to disable it in prismatik every time before the shutdown and it always takes multiple attempts to turn the leds off. Do you maybe have a fix for this ?
I ordered the parts and just got it working because of this tutorial. Thank you so much! I used 92 LEDs on the perimeter (soldering the corners to get an LED at the very end instead of a clip) and with the leftover LEDs I made two strips of 14 down the middle-back of the display. Those extra zones in the middle of the screen really unify the ambient lighting effect. It adds a lot of immersion when you're playing a dark video game and your flashlight or muzzle flash lights up the wall behind the monitor as you would expect. Trying to configure 120 individual zones was a nightmare in Prismatik though because they wouldn't all fit lol. If it helps anyone else struggling: I set a perimeter first with the preset wizard, manually CNTRL+F'd in the .ini config to make each zone 65x65 (small enough to fit), individually moved those where I wanted, and then finally added the last 28 middle LED zones. Making backups of the config at every step because I kept undoing all of my work haha.
Care to share your installation and code? i want something simular. I have a big tv, and just the sides won't do it for me. I want some middle of the screen capturing aswell for overal feel.
Hey, I followed your instruction but I used a Pro Micro Board and selected "Arduino Leonardo" as the board. It looks absolutely STUNNING! Thank you so much for this easy to follow tutorial :D
I helped my son build this for his gaming monitor based on your version one, and we actually dropped the L-connectors and soldered because we had connection issues. I don't think it was voltage drop, as it's only a 24" with 30led/m, and it's working fine now. But should they work as intended, they are definitely the easier way to go. I am currently waiting for my 6A PSU to light up my monitor - thanks for this great tutorial, it has everything inside, all the links and is still kept to the point.
I'm glad you had fun. Yeah I had some issues with the L connectors. On my previous build I soldered the angles but many people don't know how to solder so I thought I would go with the L brackets. It was a bit of trial and error but got them working in the end.
One thing to keep in mind is that power draw calculations are based on all LEDs being turned on at the same time AND at full brightness with a white color. This is rarely (if ever) going to happen. Usually, the LEDs are way too bright at full brightness. I personally set them to about 50% brightness or less which is bright enough for me, so that drops the power draw from 18w to 9w or less. Also, not all LEDs are on at the same time and even if they are they are rarely going to be white color, which is the color that draws the most current. I've used strips with 150+ LEDs with a single Arduino and a 1A - 2A power supply. I've never had an issue with power. Anyway, just want to mention that as a 5A PSU seems way over kill for this. But hey, if you get it cheap go for it :)
@@joesalz9963 I agree with your point but I always suggest a stronger PSU than is needed. You can also rely on setting the max current draw on the software side but I don't like to rely too much on software for things like that. So the only part I wouldn't cheap out on is the power supply.
For hardware security reasons i place an 470 Ohm Resistor between D6 and Data, a radial capacitor with 100uF between +/- by the power connector. Works fine for me. Thank you very much for this video.
@@dusnoki This "Hack" is to secure the leds, which sit directly at the power connection on the stripe. The stripe has for every led an capacitor, bot not one between power connecor and the first led. Sure, your solution can work fine for a while, but can also destroy the first leds. More information about this can be found in the arduino bulletin boards.
@@worstgamer848 I'm just about to do this. Where is the location between D6 and data? And the radical capacitor just in the 2 mounting screws for cables on the power connector?
@@flatmotion1 "D6" is the PIN on the Arduino Board and "Data" is the Data point from the LED Stripe (so you connect the resistor on "D6" and the "Data"-Wire of the LED Stripe on the other side from the resistor); The Radial capacitator comes additional between the "+" and "-" pole of your power connector and the power cables (you can think it as "Bridge" between "+" and "-") but take a look of the polarity of the capacitator ...
Don't know if this was the case when the video is uploaded but you can get basically this if you search for "PC dream screen". Includes the led strip, power adapter, usb cable and a little box that looks exactly like an Arduino in a case. Requires the same PC software installed as well. So basically everything minus the L-brackets as one combo deal.
Already order everything:), now I wanted to ask you if you could share a photo of the circuit made when you connect everything up. Because i find the cables part a litle bit confusing the way that is displayed in the video. Thank you:)
NO!!!!! You can only use the correct GND Pin. Each GND Pin is connected to a different GND on the microcontroller, that's why there are different GND Pins.
@@DasKloputzer Idk if you've ever taken a physics lesson or an electronics lesson, but when it says GND at 2 points, both those points are considered to be shorted with each other. All Arduino GND pins are shorted
I finally did, it looks insane, thank you for the tutorial, it was very easy to follow. Also I'm surprised it works with fullscreen games because I thought it wouldn't, but I see this version of the prismatic software allows it.
Awesome tutorial! I ran into some issues with the number of LEDs I had, I had nearly 300 and nothing worked. The arduino project has a loop with a uint8_t on line 67. This is too small for more than 255 LEDs, change that to uint16_t and it works great! Thanks for the tutorial!
Thank you for this comment! I ran into the same problem and this helped! I ended up with 'only' 244 LED's. When I changed it back to uint8_t I noticed a significant increase in refresh rate. I'm fairly certain changing it to 16_t halves the refresh rate of the LED's
Had same problem trying to light up 222 leds, and changing line 67 finally worked. Also check Baud rate, somehow while testing different solutions I set it at 9600 and didn't work, but setting back to 115200 make all them back to life!
I made a 214 led triple monitor ambilight setup and after 2 years of coping with barely 35 fps with screen grabbing I finally looked onto using esp's as I've grown quite fond of them. After your warning I was quite wary of it not working but I decided to try anyway since other sources said it would be fine. It wasn't hard to connect my esp8266 and esp32 to the strip with the same code as the arduino nano. After setting the com port in prismatic it fired right up! Then I edited the baud rates in both the arduino code and prismatic and boom! 75 fps on 912600 bps baudrate. I actually didn't test if this baudrate is possible on the arduino nano but using the esp8266 is quite nifty and gives me peace of mind bc it runs at 60 MHz instead of 16 MHz.
@@RealMokong You could use an esp32 or esp8266 and the same code you use in your video! Ofcourse you need to divine your data pin but for the rest it's all the same. The led strips use the 3.3 volts all the same as the 5 volts of the Arduino.
@@rtvlogames3708 what version of arduino sketch did you use in your setup? is it the same version as the video? i do not know about coding stuff but i like to try ambilight.. i just ordered the parts and i will be using the arduino nano.. my monitor is 27inch i might be using around a 100 leds.. my concern is the baud rate 115,200 it could be less responsive if watching 60fps videos, so i decided to look for alternative other than the nano.. but right now i just give it a try.. if does not goes well i might try the esp8266 instead...
@@RealMokong Good to hear! I wish you best of luck. Although you'd have no problem with this guide, an Arduino Nano and prismatic :). I think you can get about 50-50 fps with 100 leds with 115200 Baud rate. As answer to your question, I use the same sketch as the one provided by the guide. The esp's can use the same code as the arduino's, they just execute it faster.
Amazing job! Build this with a Arduino Nano, worked perfectly, well, until i realized that my screen isnt standing infront of a wall, so.. it just shines into the room haha.... Guess i have to move stuff around now
Hi Boris. Great tutorial. I didn't go DIY like you. I saw your video after I purchase a complete set from one of the sellers on Ali. As I browse these popular ready LED sets on Ali, I notice that all of them, including one I got to come with a much weaker power supply than you advise. For example, 3m/60 LEDs have only 6A power supply or 5m/60 only 8A. I explained and discussed with one ALi seller that 3m/60 LED strip use 54W, and his power supply can generate only 30W, but he states several times that is not a problem. This seller explanation is that his controller doesn't require an LED power connection from both sides and also since his set comes with an "upgraded controller," and they "limited the excessive current in the controller program." I understand that this LED will require full power like 54W only in they peek time when all of the LEDs are used in full brightness. Still, even with that in mind, I think this power supply they provide is way too weak. Whats is your opinion about that? How this inadequate power supply can affect the overall quality of lights, and is it safe to use?
With power supplies it is always better to go stronger than needed (less heat and strain on the components. At first I also just powered from 1 side only but after testing the end of the. Strip colors were not consistent with the beginning. Especially on white. Maybe if the strip was 12v it shouldn't be an issue but as it is 5v you get significant power loss especially with the L connectors instead of soldering. So yeah I think they are cheaping out on the power supply.
@@dusnoki, thanks for your reply, most likely they cheaping since so many other competitor shops on Ali. I have a spare 10A power supply in case 6A will have some problems, I will use that one. Hope it will work just fine, can't wait for my light show ;)
@@ZeushadesChannel As far I know most popular Ambilight sets and I didn't find other on Aliexpress is from zofipo or Dream Color. They all support the same software of your choice - two different for windows, raspberry or android. Without looking at a proper guide on YT it's not an easy job anyway. When choosing between sellers make sure that this one gives you the strongest power supply for your chosen length and amount of LEDs per meter.
@@dusnoki A kako to da ti je sve tako čisto oko monitora? Meni bi trebalo bar pola sata da sve sklonim sa stola, i još dva-tri da sve vratim kako je bilo. :) Nisam lenj, samo uživam u kreativnom haosu. :D
@@dekipet Takodje hahahah 🤣🤣 Pun sto elektronike i mnogo projekata koje sam započeo ali kod čeka dalji razvoj, jer mi fale još razni senzori koji su mi potrebni za projekte 🤣🤣 Još sam sad odštampao klasere za elektroniku pa mi je ne stoje velike kutije sa elektronikom na sve strane nego onu elektroniku koju često koristim u klasere a ostalo u fioku..
In my case it seems that i got a newer version of arduino nano so i had to select Tools > Processor > ATmega328P instead of old bootloader but in any case thanks for this tutorial :)
Thank you so much for this guide! Very easy to understand and learn from!! Unfortunately I got too excited after confirming my LED strips worked on arduino and I loosened a wire while it was plugged in + powered on which fried my two LED strips but oh well cheap lesson learned! Waiting for my replacement strips to come in on the weekend and to finish it up.
I'm very sad to hear that. BTW when these get fried it's usually just the first one or two that die. If you know soldering maybe you ca try cutting off the first led, desoldering the wires and soldering them on the second one. And try then.
First attempt I grabbed the wrong PSU and melted a strip with 12V instead of 5V - luckily the Arduino didn't die, and neither did the attached PC. You are not alone ...
Wow that was easy! Thanx! I just want to add covering the led strip with painters tape after assembly (i only covered the strip for a neat look). the painters tape will diffuse the light and in my opinion it looks a little bit better.
BTW: YOu can possibly use your PC PSU to power the LED-Strip, as most PSU can handle up to 15A at 5V. Some BeQuiets can even handle up to 25Amps as far as I'm aware.
Hey, thx for the great tutorial, but it doesn't work for me. I would appreciate your help. I did everything as you, in my opinion. I measured with the multimeter the connection from the start of the +5 V to the End of the +5V and the same for GND. Connection seems fine. The only question for me I measured 16 MOhm from the start from any data-pin to the next data-pin. Is that normal or am I measuring wrong? I am searching already 1 week the misstake in my build. Thanks in advance.
does it can have a negative effect, if i will use a higher ampere and watt amount than i need (for example using the 10a 50w powes supply if i only need 6a and 30w)?
It's better to use higher amp power supply than is needed. It doesn't have to work so hard. You won't have an issue. It will only use as much as It needs
This is awesome! And it looks so good. Thank you for this tutorial, I might and hopefully do this in future. I know all of the Links are in the Description (Thanks for that, many people don't do that in tutorials), but how much will this cost about?
What would you recommend for 230 diodes? For some reason I have 15 fps in the ambibox and the backlight doesn't seem to give even 5-7 fps, very high delays.. Sometimes random LEDs blink, what could it be? Arduino can't cope?
If doing this for a TV, how would you hook up for an HDMI output? Or am I not understanding something? How does that motherboard thing get video output information to it from a TV?
Is it just me that can't make sense of this, his picture at @2:50 and the wiring diagram he shows don't match up. I'm confused at how I'm supposed to wire this. Can someone help me out?
Where did you use this Logic level converter module? On diagram @6:25 Led strip are directly connected to arduino. Can I directly connect led strip to arduino?
I did not as I used an Arduino nano. As it uses 5v logic it doesn't need a logic level converter. If you use something like an esp8266 which uses 3v3 logic then you need a logic level converter on the data line.
I'm looking at using an arduino uno for this. Do I need the female power supply adaptor? The uno has one already I think? If so, would the wiring be different?
Do everything the same as I did. Do try try and run power to the strip from the arduino. You will fry it. Just connect the green wire and ground to the arduino and connect it with a USB cable to your pc. Everything else should be directly connected to the strip from the power supply.
Where is the logic level converter at the installation? I have no idea about how to connect it to the Arduino/board/power suoply and make it work... It only appears at the items description... could you help me?
Hello, can you please explain the wire connection process since I did not understand only that. A picture of the connection will help. Thank you so much
It’s looks amazing! Thank you for sharing your work. I have questions if you don’t mind,I was wonderingif it’s possible to connect it to tv rather than a computer? Thanks you again.
Which is the difference between use audirino and a philip gradient? Because i have a hue sync box, and i’m going to use principally with a pc, so when i was near to buy the gradient philip i knew about this product, but i can’t see anyone comparing them The obviously difference are the price, that one works with anything that comes by hdmi and not just pc and is more easy to install but apart from all that, talking about quality the software that they use to be more equal lightning distribution latency etc etc.
Love the video I am actually planning on doing this. so what kind of power suply do i need if i want to power 2 different LED strips for my 2 27 inch monitors. can i use just 1 power supply for both or do i need to buy 2 of them?
Thanks for this great video, it inspaired me to make my own, but does the Arduino Nano and the related softwares work on a MacOS with M1 chip? Please let me know, it will be so much helpful, thank you!
it's working like a charm, but is there a way to make the light off my default? I mean, when I turn off lights in Prismatic and set my PC to hibernate, the strip lights up white. Arduino remains glowing red as well so I assume its still active and should be able to set the state of the LEDs to 0. As of now I must unplug it from the wall and Im considering a switch on the power cable.
I don't know man. I can't recommend it with a clear conscience. If it was a atx power supply only powering the leds then yes. Bit this way I'm not quite sure. For sure you have to connect the ground to the psu ground as well. Just don't want to see you break your pc because of me.
@@dusnoki Job finished! Great!!! Everything works fine (I used an external power supply to avoid problems on my pc). I have only one problem... In Prismatik, if I turn lights off, leds don't switch off but it seems they are freezed on the last grabbed video. Is it possible to switch them off?
still have this in use. but one question. i tried to speed up the light display, with the use of a nodemcu instead of the arduino nano. I added the 2 lines on top, but eather it doesnt do anything , or the nodemcu crashes . I assume problems with the watchdog.. any suggestions ?=
Hello. Great explanations thank you.I followed everything but the strip remains white, even if I change the RGB modes. I have a 5V 10A power supply and a 60 leds/m WS2812B strip with a Nano... Can you help ?
I'm glad I found your video! I was going to try Hyperion, but that won't work on a triple monitor setup. I've gotten everything and I'll build it coming week! I'll be using about 4.5 meters of 60 LED/m strip, so first I'll need to find out how much power injection I need to do. I'm predicting quite a lot!
So I ended up with 244 LED's and a 20A PSU. I used the 4 corner pieces and 4 15cm wired connectors for between the monitors. I cut these in half and used quick lock connectors to connect them again. The connectors aren't that great tbh. Don't remove the tape backing on the piece of strip that goes into the connector. I ended up putting small pieces back in to get good connections. After measuring again that the connections were good I fastened the LED's on the right side monitor. Measured it again and the connections were worse again. Fortunately I already had 2 power injections on this monitor alone. Before putting the rest on I soldered a power injection on every LED strip and ended up with 6 soldered power injections + 2 from the beginning and end of the strip. In the evening I had done all the LED work and put back the monitors on the monitor arm. The next morning quite a bit of the LED's had already come off, even though I cleaned the monitors thoroughly. Thankfully I got a very good double sided tape that I also used to fasten the connectors to the monitors. After wiring everything up and configuring Prismatik I didn't have any light from the left side monitor. Also bad connectors. I opened up 1 clip and the first strip came on. After opening a clip on the next strip and the rest came on.
I'm try it with a 89 led setup but my question is: should I buy a lesser ampered power supply than yours in the video? (8A) I'm trying this with a 5v 40w 8A but the leds doesn't light...Could I have burnt all?
@@dusnoki I'm so grateful to be found this video. I was having trouble on and old setup and I decided to give it another try from a fresh install, but just following everyone of your steps this time, and it worked. Even I thought I didn't know what you were doing connecting the start and the end (input and output) but It worked and now I'm very happy, thank you so so much.
Prismatik complains that the baudrate is too low, the grab frequency is 30fps and the strip is laggy ish, which 30fps is. How can I get it closer to my native frame rate of 165?
I have a problem. The first 3 leds (i'm using a ws2811) is flashing blue. It seems like an indicator of new info sent out to the arduino, and sometimes all the leds flashes of wierd colors. Can anyone help me?
Baš mi je drago što sam našao nekog iz Srbije ko se bavi ovakvim stvarima! 😁
After a year I finally ordered all the parts and built mine. Thank you! I was really impressed by the colour accuracy and overall function. Your tutorial was a pleasure to work with and everything worked out first try. Big kudos! Fun mini project with absolutely insane effect!
I'm so glad that it worked out. Enjoy :)
Running this since about 2-3 years.
Never without Ambilight again. Thank you so much !
Glad it still works. I haven't had issues with it either since the build.
@@dusnoki my only problem is that the Ambilight isnt powering off itself. I need to disable it in prismatik every time before the shutdown and it always takes multiple attempts to turn the leds off. Do you maybe have a fix for this ?
I ordered the parts and just got it working because of this tutorial. Thank you so much!
I used 92 LEDs on the perimeter (soldering the corners to get an LED at the very end instead of a clip) and with the leftover LEDs I made two strips of 14 down the middle-back of the display. Those extra zones in the middle of the screen really unify the ambient lighting effect. It adds a lot of immersion when you're playing a dark video game and your flashlight or muzzle flash lights up the wall behind the monitor as you would expect.
Trying to configure 120 individual zones was a nightmare in Prismatik though because they wouldn't all fit lol. If it helps anyone else struggling: I set a perimeter first with the preset wizard, manually CNTRL+F'd in the .ini config to make each zone 65x65 (small enough to fit), individually moved those where I wanted, and then finally added the last 28 middle LED zones. Making backups of the config at every step because I kept undoing all of my work haha.
Care to share your installation and code? i want something simular. I have a big tv, and just the sides won't do it for me. I want some middle of the screen capturing aswell for overal feel.
Hey, I followed your instruction but I used a Pro Micro Board and selected "Arduino Leonardo" as the board. It looks absolutely STUNNING! Thank you so much for this easy to follow tutorial :D
@r laze Looks absolutely amazing!
are u suing the same script? or there is need to be change?
@@Antovin33 I did everything like explained in the Video :)
I'm so glad it worked out for you :)
I helped my son build this for his gaming monitor based on your version one, and we actually dropped the L-connectors and soldered because we had connection issues. I don't think it was voltage drop, as it's only a 24" with 30led/m, and it's working fine now. But should they work as intended, they are definitely the easier way to go.
I am currently waiting for my 6A PSU to light up my monitor - thanks for this great tutorial, it has everything inside, all the links and is still kept to the point.
I'm glad you had fun. Yeah I had some issues with the L connectors. On my previous build I soldered the angles but many people don't know how to solder so I thought I would go with the L brackets. It was a bit of trial and error but got them working in the end.
One thing to keep in mind is that power draw calculations are based on all LEDs being turned on at the same time AND at full brightness with a white color. This is rarely (if ever) going to happen. Usually, the LEDs are way too bright at full brightness. I personally set them to about 50% brightness or less which is bright enough for me, so that drops the power draw from 18w to 9w or less. Also, not all LEDs are on at the same time and even if they are they are rarely going to be white color, which is the color that draws the most current. I've used strips with 150+ LEDs with a single Arduino and a 1A - 2A power supply. I've never had an issue with power. Anyway, just want to mention that as a 5A PSU seems way over kill for this. But hey, if you get it cheap go for it :)
@@joesalz9963 I agree with your point but I always suggest a stronger PSU than is needed. You can also rely on setting the max current draw on the software side but I don't like to rely too much on software for things like that. So the only part I wouldn't cheap out on is the power supply.
For hardware security reasons i place an 470 Ohm Resistor between D6 and Data, a radial capacitor with 100uF between +/- by the power connector. Works fine for me. Thank you very much for this video.
Thanks for that. I tried before with a capacitor and resistor. Honestly didn't make any difference when I powered the strip on both sides.
@@dusnoki This "Hack" is to secure the leds, which sit directly at the power connection on the stripe. The stripe has for every led an capacitor, bot not one between power connecor and the first led. Sure, your solution can work fine for a while, but can also destroy the first leds. More information about this can be found in the arduino bulletin boards.
@@worstgamer848 I'm just about to do this. Where is the location between D6 and data? And the radical capacitor just in the 2 mounting screws for cables on the power connector?
@@flatmotion1 "D6" is the PIN on the Arduino Board and "Data" is the Data point from the LED Stripe (so you connect the resistor on "D6" and the "Data"-Wire of the LED Stripe on the other side from the resistor); The Radial capacitator comes additional between the "+" and "-" pole of your power connector and the power cables (you can think it as "Bridge" between "+" and "-") but take a look of the polarity of the capacitator ...
Don't know if this was the case when the video is uploaded but you can get basically this if you search for "PC dream screen". Includes the led strip, power adapter, usb cable and a little box that looks exactly like an Arduino in a case. Requires the same PC software installed as well. So basically everything minus the L-brackets as one combo deal.
Just ordered everything. I hope it’s as easy as you made it seem.
How’d it go? I’m interested
@@matthamel1347 haven’t gotten it. Ordered everything from China
Good luck :)
Any update on it?
I'm guessing it flopped 🤣
Already order everything:), now I wanted to ask you if you could share a photo of the circuit made when you connect everything up. Because i find the cables part a litle bit confusing the way that is displayed in the video. Thank you:)
Can I use any GND on the nano? I see a GND next to the D2 pin. Can i use that?
Yes, you can. All the ground pins are connected with each other! Hope I could help :D
NO!!!!! You can only use the correct GND Pin. Each GND Pin is connected to a different GND on the microcontroller, that's why there are different GND Pins.
@@DasKloputzer all Gnd Pins are connected. There is only one Gnd. So thats also the reason why they are named the Same.
@@liveen yeah but its different ground pins, its physics
@@DasKloputzer Idk if you've ever taken a physics lesson or an electronics lesson, but when it says GND at 2 points, both those points are considered to be shorted with each other. All Arduino GND pins are shorted
I finally did, it looks insane, thank you for the tutorial, it was very easy to follow. Also I'm surprised it works with fullscreen games because I thought it wouldn't, but I see this version of the prismatic software allows it.
Bravo uvek lajk od baka Dudine kuhinja ❤️
Awesome tutorial! I ran into some issues with the number of LEDs I had, I had nearly 300 and nothing worked. The arduino project has a loop with a uint8_t on line 67. This is too small for more than 255 LEDs, change that to uint16_t and it works great! Thanks for the tutorial!
Thank you for this comment! I ran into the same problem and this helped!
I ended up with 'only' 244 LED's. When I changed it back to uint8_t I noticed a significant increase in refresh rate. I'm fairly certain changing it to 16_t halves the refresh rate of the LED's
I wonder what would be need for 650 leds, planning on a 144 65 inch build
Had same problem trying to light up 222 leds, and changing line 67 finally worked. Also check Baud rate, somehow while testing different solutions I set it at 9600 and didn't work, but setting back to 115200 make all them back to life!
This is the best video I've found on this topic. Have used your links to buy the kit. Thank you!
Thanks man I really appreciate it
I had built version 1.0 but it got damaged during furniture moving. I just build version 2.0 and it works perfectly and is even cooler. Thanks!
I made a 214 led triple monitor ambilight setup and after 2 years of coping with barely 35 fps with screen grabbing I finally looked onto using esp's as I've grown quite fond of them. After your warning I was quite wary of it not working but I decided to try anyway since other sources said it would be fine. It wasn't hard to connect my esp8266 and esp32 to the strip with the same code as the arduino nano. After setting the com port in prismatic it fired right up! Then I edited the baud rates in both the arduino code and prismatic and boom! 75 fps on 912600 bps baudrate. I actually didn't test if this baudrate is possible on the arduino nano but using the esp8266 is quite nifty and gives me peace of mind bc it runs at 60 MHz instead of 16 MHz.
awesome… are the esp32 and esp8266 have arduino on it? hopefully you could share it to us.. a tutorial is more appreciated.. 🙏🙏🙏
@@RealMokong You could use an esp32 or esp8266 and the same code you use in your video! Ofcourse you need to divine your data pin but for the rest it's all the same. The led strips use the 3.3 volts all the same as the 5 volts of the Arduino.
@@rtvlogames3708 what version of arduino sketch did you use in your setup? is it the same version as the video? i do not know about coding stuff but i like to try ambilight.. i just ordered the parts and i will be using the arduino nano.. my monitor is 27inch i might be using around a 100 leds.. my concern is the baud rate 115,200 it could be less responsive if watching 60fps videos, so i decided to look for alternative other than the nano.. but right now i just give it a try.. if does not goes well i might try the esp8266 instead...
@@RealMokong Good to hear! I wish you best of luck. Although you'd have no problem with this guide, an Arduino Nano and prismatic :). I think you can get about 50-50 fps with 100 leds with 115200 Baud rate.
As answer to your question, I use the same sketch as the one provided by the guide. The esp's can use the same code as the arduino's, they just execute it faster.
@@rtvlogames3708 thanks i'll try with nano first... hopefully it all goes well..
Amazing job!
Build this with a Arduino Nano, worked perfectly,
well, until i realized that my screen isnt standing infront of a wall, so.. it just shines into the room haha....
Guess i have to move stuff around now
Dude, put a blanket or something behind. And enjoy!
I have the feeling you found my circuit planning/build online :D you built an identical ambilight with the same parts I did years ago
Na 6:21 jesi li buraz sastavio i pocetak i kraj trake ili taj dio samo nisam skonto! Ili..
Just so I'm clear this only requires a USB cable not an hdmi?
Also thank you for such a comprehensive video.
Yup, the usb which connects the Arduino! The main processing is being done on the pc
By the way , the logical shifter he uses is slow in response, and the image LED backlight is in lagging phase with higher fps
Hi Boris. Great tutorial. I didn't go DIY like you. I saw your video after I purchase a complete set from one of the sellers on Ali. As I browse these popular ready LED sets on Ali, I notice that all of them, including one I got to come with a much weaker power supply than you advise. For example, 3m/60 LEDs have only 6A power supply or 5m/60 only 8A. I explained and discussed with one ALi seller that 3m/60 LED strip use 54W, and his power supply can generate only 30W, but he states several times that is not a problem. This seller explanation is that his controller doesn't require an LED power connection from both sides and also since his set comes with an "upgraded controller," and they "limited the excessive current in the controller program." I understand that this LED will require full power like 54W only in they peek time when all of the LEDs are used in full brightness. Still, even with that in mind, I think this power supply they provide is way too weak. Whats is your opinion about that? How this inadequate power supply can affect the overall quality of lights, and is it safe to use?
With power supplies it is always better to go stronger than needed (less heat and strain on the components. At first I also just powered from 1 side only but after testing the end of the. Strip colors were not consistent with the beginning. Especially on white. Maybe if the strip was 12v it shouldn't be an issue but as it is 5v you get significant power loss especially with the L connectors instead of soldering. So yeah I think they are cheaping out on the power supply.
@@dusnoki, thanks for your reply, most likely they cheaping since so many other competitor shops on Ali. I have a spare 10A power supply in case 6A will have some problems, I will use that one. Hope it will work just fine, can't wait for my light show ;)
Good luck :)
What set did you buy on ali? I saw a few but none of them use the same software, where you able to get it to work regardless? Thanks
@@ZeushadesChannel As far I know most popular Ambilight sets and I didn't find other on Aliexpress is from zofipo or Dream Color. They all support the same software of your choice - two different for windows, raspberry or android. Without looking at a proper guide on YT it's not an easy job anyway. When choosing between sellers make sure that this one gives you the strongest power supply for your chosen length and amount of LEDs per meter.
Please make a video on DIY pc stats monitor using Arduino ❤
Odlično! Eto ideje za naredni projekat. Još da sam završio sve ove započete... :D
Pricaj mi o tome :D imam 3 videa snimljena sto treba montirati jos od prosle godine :D plus jos zapocetih ideja :D
@@dusnoki A kako to da ti je sve tako čisto oko monitora? Meni bi trebalo bar pola sata da sve sklonim sa stola, i još dva-tri da sve vratim kako je bilo. :)
Nisam lenj, samo uživam u kreativnom haosu. :D
I ja sam ga pola sata spremao :D
@@dekipet Takodje hahahah 🤣🤣 Pun sto elektronike i mnogo projekata koje sam započeo ali kod čeka dalji razvoj, jer mi fale još razni senzori koji su mi potrebni za projekte 🤣🤣
Još sam sad odštampao klasere za elektroniku pa mi je ne stoje velike kutije sa elektronikom na sve strane nego onu elektroniku koju često koristim u klasere a ostalo u fioku..
In my case it seems that i got a newer version of arduino nano so i had to select Tools > Processor > ATmega328P instead of old bootloader
but in any case thanks for this tutorial :)
Thank you so much for this guide! Very easy to understand and learn from!! Unfortunately I got too excited after confirming my LED strips worked on arduino and I loosened a wire while it was plugged in + powered on which fried my two LED strips but oh well cheap lesson learned! Waiting for my replacement strips to come in on the weekend and to finish it up.
I'm very sad to hear that. BTW when these get fried it's usually just the first one or two that die. If you know soldering maybe you ca try cutting off the first led, desoldering the wires and soldering them on the second one. And try then.
First attempt I grabbed the wrong PSU and melted a strip with 12V instead of 5V - luckily the Arduino didn't die, and neither did the attached PC. You are not alone ...
Can anything like this damage our pc (because it's connect to pc)
Wow that was easy! Thanx! I just want to add covering the led strip with painters tape after assembly (i only covered the strip for a neat look). the painters tape will diffuse the light and in my opinion it looks a little bit better.
Glad you got it working :)
Thank you! Still got the leds behind my monitor in use
Awesome. Glad they still work :)
BTW: YOu can possibly use your PC PSU to power the LED-Strip, as most PSU can handle up to 15A at 5V. Some BeQuiets can even handle up to 25Amps as far as I'm aware.
Should I have connection from both ends on a 22 inch monitor
Jako zanimljiv video. Zaista mi se dopao.🐾
By far the best rundown on how to do this. I wonder if there are cheaper RGB strips though. Will this work with a 4K display?
Try ws2812b-eco
What would cause flashing of random colors near the end of the strip?
Is it possible to add a gledopto zigbee controller to this? So i can alternatively control the led strip with my hue app too?
How can I connect this to a 65"TV & get the ambient light to display based on the image on the TV?
Is there any way we can set this up for a smart TV?
Hey, thx for the great tutorial, but it doesn't work for me. I would appreciate your help.
I did everything as you, in my opinion. I measured with the multimeter the connection from the start of the +5 V to the End of the +5V and the same for GND. Connection seems fine. The only question for me I measured 16 MOhm from the start from any data-pin to the next data-pin. Is that normal or am I measuring wrong?
I am searching already 1 week the misstake in my build.
Thanks in advance.
does it can have a negative effect, if i will use a higher ampere and watt amount than i need (for example using the 10a 50w powes supply if i only need 6a and 30w)?
It's better to use higher amp power supply than is needed. It doesn't have to work so hard. You won't have an issue. It will only use as much as It needs
will you make one for a TV? so it can do this as well?
It is planned just its gonna cost substantially more.
@@dusnoki Ok i would like to add onto my tv vs comp monitor
I'm been waiting for this improvement.
@@dusnoki I would love to see this project for a TV setup! That's my next goal whenever I am done with this project for my monitor.
This is awesome! And it looks so good.
Thank you for this tutorial, I might and hopefully do this in future.
I know all of the Links are in the Description (Thanks for that, many people don't do that in tutorials), but how much will this cost about?
how is it taking the screen data and replicating it on the LEDs ? i assume this is for a screen that is connected to a PC right ? not a regular TV. ?
Where will the terminal to dc jack go in ?
What would you recommend for 230 diodes? For some reason I have 15 fps in the ambibox and the backlight doesn't seem to give even 5-7 fps, very high delays.. Sometimes random LEDs blink, what could it be? Arduino can't cope?
Damn bro, you just explained a nightmare like a sweet dream
If doing this for a TV, how would you hook up for an HDMI output? Or am I not understanding something? How does that motherboard thing get video output information to it from a TV?
ruclips.net/video/hpBRKZ_2aYo/видео.html
Is it just me that can't make sense of this, his picture at @2:50 and the wiring diagram he shows don't match up. I'm confused at how I'm supposed to wire this. Can someone help me out?
Do you have a link conection with a draw with the 5v-3,3v and the adruino nano because i don't know if we need to put alilentation to the vin pin
Where did you use this Logic level converter module? On diagram @6:25 Led strip are directly connected to arduino. Can I directly connect led strip to arduino?
I did not as I used an Arduino nano. As it uses 5v logic it doesn't need a logic level converter. If you use something like an esp8266 which uses 3v3 logic then you need a logic level converter on the data line.
could you use a arduino uno for this i have one laying around that i could use if possible
Yes of course
how did you capture the content tv was showing to be able to match the led color? i am not quite understand
Does an arduino nano every work and can i use a usb port on my computer as a psu?
From where will the Aurdiono nano gets 5V power supply
I have curiosity will attiny85 work like it can do SPI connection and there is a development board look like USB ? please answer anyone
hi im having 144 leds in this strip (2 meters) should i power it from both sides or is it sufficient to power from one side. Thank you
Hello there, can i use two devices(arduino + led) at the same time? I want one on the monitor and the secod for color music
I'm guessing Prismatic records the edges of your screen or something? How does that impact performance? 🙂
Hey great informative video anyluck same topic expect a large TV or projector screen? Thanks in advance
Will try one day :)
I'd really like an option to get this working on a TV too.
I believe it can on android TVs or on Android boxes by using the ambilight app. It's a paid app but I'm sure it gets a data feedback through the usb
Could this be possible to do like a the wall edges behind my tv to get an effect with the tv?
I'm looking at using an arduino uno for this. Do I need the female power supply adaptor? The uno has one already I think? If so, would the wiring be different?
Do everything the same as I did. Do try try and run power to the strip from the arduino. You will fry it. Just connect the green wire and ground to the arduino and connect it with a USB cable to your pc. Everything else should be directly connected to the strip from the power supply.
@@dusnoki Hi I did the same wiring as in the video, except I didn't need a breadboard. Works perfectly! Great video!
Is there any difference between Prismatik and Ambibox?
its possible to connect 2 strips together? like one in a pc monitor and the other in table desk computer and they works thogether?
It can work on 2 monitors. But connected to 1pc
Boris Dusnoki how to?
Where is the logic level converter at the installation? I have no idea about how to connect it to the Arduino/board/power suoply and make it work... It only appears at the items description... could you help me?
Is it work with netflix & amazon app that have DRM protection?
Hello. Can i use this for smart tv
Great video bud, keep up the great work
You're very welcome
Hello, can you please explain the wire connection process since I did not understand only that. A picture of the connection will help. Thank you so much
It’s looks amazing! Thank you for sharing your work.
I have questions if you don’t mind,I was wonderingif it’s possible to connect it to tv rather than a computer?
Thanks you again.
Which is the difference between use audirino and a philip gradient? Because i have a hue sync box, and i’m going to use principally with a pc, so when i was near to buy the gradient philip i knew about this product, but i can’t see anyone comparing them
The obviously difference are the price, that one works with anything that comes by hdmi and not just pc and is more easy to install but apart from all that, talking about quality the software that they use to be more equal lightning distribution latency etc etc.
Love the video I am actually planning on doing this. so what kind of power suply do i need if i want to power 2 different LED strips for my 2 27 inch monitors. can i use just 1 power supply for both or do i need to buy 2 of them?
Thanks for this great video, it inspaired me to make my own, but does the Arduino Nano and the related softwares work on a MacOS with M1 chip? Please let me know, it will be so much helpful, thank you!
Yeah the prismatic should work on macs as well.
How arduino can get the data from tv to determine colors?
hi! this would work with any movie or video?
how long does it take to uploadf the file in arduino as no led is blinking on the board and its showing uploading for last one hour??????????
Does it work on any tv or just android? Or maybe just works on the monitor?
it's working like a charm, but is there a way to make the light off my default? I mean, when I turn off lights in Prismatic and set my PC to hibernate, the strip lights up white. Arduino remains glowing red as well so I assume its still active and should be able to set the state of the LEDs to 0. As of now I must unplug it from the wall and Im considering a switch on the power cable.
Can I use 5V from pc atx power supply (red and black cables in a molex) without external power supply?
Not sure whats the max amperage of that supply... You can try but you run the risk of damaging the supply if overloaded. Or a fire in the worst case.
@@dusnokiMine has 25A in the 5V rail. I think it could be enough for pc and ambilight...
I don't know man. I can't recommend it with a clear conscience. If it was a atx power supply only powering the leds then yes. Bit this way I'm not quite sure. For sure you have to connect the ground to the psu ground as well. Just don't want to see you break your pc because of me.
@@dusnoki Job finished! Great!!! Everything works fine (I used an external power supply to avoid problems on my pc). I have only one problem... In Prismatik, if I turn lights off, leds don't switch off but it seems they are freezed on the last grabbed video. Is it possible to switch them off?
Hi, I have a question. Is that program can run more than one monitor at a time? :) I want to plug in 3 monitors (24").
Best guide I have found!! Thank You!
Thanks man I really appreciate it!
@@dusnokiYou bet, I already ordered all the parts you listed. I will use your guide to set mine up. Thanks Again!
Good luck
still have this in use. but one question. i tried to speed up the light display, with the use of a nodemcu instead of the arduino nano.
I added the 2 lines on top, but eather it doesnt do anything , or the nodemcu crashes . I assume problems with the watchdog.. any suggestions ?=
hello brother would i need
Module NodeMCU ESP8266-12E CH340 V3 & IC I2C Logic Level Converter Bi-Directional for this project ?
Hello Boris,
I loved the video. It was very clear. But can it also work on a ESP32 ?
What colour would we get in the leds when we are using vscode in a dark theme in the monitor?
How to use this on Arduino Nano Every. When I upload the program, "compilation error for the arduino nano every board" is displayed.
Awesome it was straight forward. Now question, once everything is programmed will it work with the TV usb port or only a pc?
Hello. Great explanations thank you.I followed everything but the strip remains white, even if I change the RGB modes. I have a 5V 10A power supply and a 60 leds/m WS2812B strip with a Nano... Can you help ?
Come to discord. Someone will help you out :)
I'm glad I found your video! I was going to try Hyperion, but that won't work on a triple monitor setup. I've gotten everything and I'll build it coming week! I'll be using about 4.5 meters of 60 LED/m strip, so first I'll need to find out how much power injection I need to do. I'm predicting quite a lot!
So I ended up with 244 LED's and a 20A PSU. I used the 4 corner pieces and 4 15cm wired connectors for between the monitors. I cut these in half and used quick lock connectors to connect them again.
The connectors aren't that great tbh. Don't remove the tape backing on the piece of strip that goes into the connector. I ended up putting small pieces back in to get good connections. After measuring again that the connections were good I fastened the LED's on the right side monitor. Measured it again and the connections were worse again. Fortunately I already had 2 power injections on this monitor alone. Before putting the rest on I soldered a power injection on every LED strip and ended up with 6 soldered power injections + 2 from the beginning and end of the strip.
In the evening I had done all the LED work and put back the monitors on the monitor arm. The next morning quite a bit of the LED's had already come off, even though I cleaned the monitors thoroughly. Thankfully I got a very good double sided tape that I also used to fasten the connectors to the monitors.
After wiring everything up and configuring Prismatik I didn't have any light from the left side monitor. Also bad connectors. I opened up 1 clip and the first strip came on. After opening a clip on the next strip and the rest came on.
Does esp have WiFi? Wondering if I could make this integrate into home assistant
I'm try it with a 89 led setup but my question is: should I buy a lesser ampered power supply than yours in the video? (8A) I'm trying this with a 5v 40w 8A but the leds doesn't light...Could I have burnt all?
If you did fry the leds usually the first one in the string goes. The others should be fine
@@dusnoki I'm so grateful to be found this video. I was having trouble on and old setup and I decided to give it another try from a fresh install, but just following everyone of your steps this time, and it worked. Even I thought I didn't know what you were doing connecting the start and the end (input and output) but It worked and now I'm very happy, thank you so so much.
Prismatik complains that the baudrate is too low, the grab frequency is 30fps and the strip is laggy ish, which 30fps is. How can I get it closer to my native frame rate of 165?
i cannot see hdmi splitter. how tools interpreter signal from tv? it's need a smartphone with cam?
can you use this witha tv?
Can it plug to the TV? or you need to connected to the computer/laptop?
Hey ! Your job is absolutely insane ! I I wanted to know if it's working on an external monitor connected to a MacBook Pro ? Thanks !
It should. Prismatik does have an app for Mac OS.
@@dusnoki Thank You ! :)
Can I use this on a pico?
for some reason in the last step from the setup wizard at setting the white balance the leds just don't light up. does anyone experience that?
Hi, quick question, is Atmega168P enough for this project or should one go for Atmega328P instead?
I have a problem. The first 3 leds (i'm using a ws2811) is flashing blue. It seems like an indicator of new info sent out to the arduino, and sometimes all the leds flashes of wierd colors. Can anyone help me?
Hi i dont have arduino, can i use nodemcu for this? thank you :D