Oh, if you think this cable of the heat-plate is kind of dodgy, wait for a video which I planned to do soon. The one I bought screams "I'll kill you" when you just look at it :) Though, I have to admit, it did the job which I needed it for. Anyhow, nice insights. Thanks!
Oh yes, I was expecting something MUCH more dangerous. There is a proper SMPS inside with some separation. I was expecting 220V dropped to 12V with a resistor :D Looking forward to watching the killing machine video! :D
I think first attempt to flash the firmware worked. A factory fresh Pico goes straight to firmware update mode without pressing the button. The five flashes came from the BlueSCSI firmware indicating that it couldn't access the SD card.
Love this! I use a glass jar large enough for my components that limits the amount of cleaning solution used and contain debris in my ultrasonic. I very rarely need the entire tank and usually just have water in it.
For such prototyping or small series, you should order the stencil mask also. It makes life much easier by applying just the right amount of paste on exactly every pad. And because the stencils are really cheap they are a no-brainer.
19:08 reminds me of the xbox one x power supplies where the primary side cap is covering some IC's that get extremely hot and cook the cap. Let alone theres no ventilation even if you get the type of supply that doesn't have the IC's under the cap. The one I replaced the cap on didn't have the IC's under it. That hot plate is neat. Might pick one up if the price is right. Thanks Tony.
@@Tony359_2 Right. Well how else would you buy the next new thing? Like a laptop I got recently. Battery is dead. 4 cell battery. One cell died, the other 3 are fine. Guess I just need to make a few 3200mAh battery banks now and buy a new one. Instead of the BMS just locking me out, some diagnostics would of been great. Without buying a $600 bit of equipment. Literally color coded holes corresponding to each cells +/- strips would suffice. Marks on where to safely cut so you can extract and change the cell.. Thousands of shops probably PAY to dispose of them, when they're repairable/still good. Designed poorly.
That supply module will be a switching supply, the chip is likely hiding under the mains side electrolytic cap The device that you thought was a mosfet is likely a triac
Great video Tony! I think the trick to getting a smooth result with solder paste and a hot plate is a stencil. I’ve seen people use them elsewhere-I think you could scan the PCB, trace the solder pads, & send it out to be laser cut. You could get one laser cut out of thin plastic & then apply a thin film of paste with a squeegee. Never done it before-but I think it’s the trick to getting the proper amount of paste so as to limit or eliminate solder balls and bridges. If you try this-show us! I’d love to see the process in action. I’ve only seen snippets of the procedure.
Indeed - PCBWay sent me a message on that subject: stencils can be ordered along with the PCB, it’s an option on the order page, I had no idea. Much funnier to use a screwdriver though 😂
You can put a pcb in a bag with solvent/cleaner and then stick it in an ultrasonic full of water. You use less cleaner that way and the junk that comes off stays in the bag.
Hi Tony! Reflow soldering is only done with SMD stencil. Any PCB manufacturer will have an SMD stencil option, it must be used for solder paste, it makes sure that a precise solder paste quantity is used on each pad. You do not have to waste too much time for precise component positioning, the solder once melted will center them quite nicely. It takes some practice to perfect this method but once it is done, the results are quite spectacular. PS: Still, in my view, reflow soldering is no fun, at least for me anyway. I feel i have done nothing unless is solder each component by myself, and i love doing it all day long, especially for small SMD components 😅 I have done one such video, showing my way of soldering...
Yes, PCBWay actually mentioned that after I sent them the video! :) There is an option when you order the PCBs. I still like the screwdriver method! :D
Very nice video Tony! I like your humor special at the first try with your solder paste. I needed to laugh some time with you :D The inside view of the heater was very good. Very good idea to check tschieniese-stuff before use
Hi Tony, great job. I really like watching your videos. I repair various electronics myself, especially old motherboards, etc. In my opinion, you should reverse the polarity of the mains power cables. The Blue wire should be Neutral and the Brown wire should be Live. It will be safer if the phase passes through a fuse. If you have connected the phase as in the video, and a failure occurs, blowing the fuse will not cut off the phase from the device. The phase may still be on the hot-plate. Best wishes
Very interesting thanks. I followed the "N" and "L" on the SMPS legs. I didn't realise it ended up with the Neutral going on the fuse. Your point is solid. Do you think it might upset the SMPS? I doubt it as the plug it came is non-poiarised. Thanks for spotting that!
Thank you! I haven't got them unfortunately and also I need something low profile. Good to know the precise size though, I'll source some! Thanks again!
Another fun and interesting video. I wonder if the prolonged heating might affect the components in any way, versus regular soldering. I think PCBWay can make stencils for the paste which speeds things up.
They do! I didn't know, they let me know after watching the video LOL! Components can withstand temperatures up to 170C I think no problem - more and you need to be quick. Pre-heating for soldering is only up to 100/120C so that is totally fine even for capacitors! Thanks for watching!
I saw northwest using the mini preheater too and instantly went looking for one 🙂I thought aliexpress had stopped selling them though as I couldn't find any but after seeing this just have found and ordered one. 👍
As a re-tiered electrician. I can confirm the fuse should always be in the live conductor and not the neutral. And agree with @piotrokrutny477 stated below the metal plate could become live under fault conditions leaving it at 240volts.
That low 5 volt rail screams poor capacitors to me, the way it changes with load and where on the circuit you measure it. Also, when you were trying to remove bridges from the your newly made BlueSCSI board try a soldering iron bit with some flat face on it, flat surface will create an area of higher surface tension for a solder blob to form on the bit and off the pcb.
Thanks! My other flat tips are too big, I should buy a T210 knife bit, thanks for the suggestion! The PSU on those old Mac's are not great - though that is a Sony PSU in a can. I only then remembered that I need to replace the socket of the ADB chip on that Mac - I replaced the chip (the cool repair video is on the main channel ruclips.net/video/siR-XEheM90/видео.html) and someone recommended the "turned" or "machined" sockets for better results. They were wrong! I should install a regular socket there asap! :)
Maybe. But then I remembered that my ADB IC (which I replaced in the video repair) is on a "machined" socket. Someone recommended them to me but they are useless, the IC comes off by itself. So I think that that was the problem. Will check out :)
Not to be too picky, but you should always use ring style terminals, not the U shaped ones, for safety grounds. It prevents the ground from coming completely disconnected if the screw loosens a bit. I believe it is even a requirement of safety certifying agencies like UL, CSA, etc. Not something g that would be easy to add after the fact, but it would also be nice if the top of the plate had at least been silk screened with a large “HOT” label. If they can manage to put their logo on it, you’d think the warning would be pretty easy. You could probably do it after the fact with a 3D printed stencil and some high temperature engine paint if you really wanted to. I’m working on some projects that will need assembly of SMD parts and am looking at hot air stations and hot plates. Don’t think I’ll get this one - plus need 120V).
Talking of cheap, mains powered tools, I bought this 8508 hot air gun from Ali expecting it wouldn't be grounded and at least the tip is connected to ground!
Ok, couldn’t help myself not making a second comment. If you do decide to get an ultrasonic cleaner sometime and are worried about things like the little solder balks accumulating in the cleaning solution, just get some paint filters online or any hardware or paint store or even coffee filters and a stainless funnel that they will fit in and occasionally pour the solution through a filter to remove any accumulated particles. If you really want to be picky, order some laboratory chemical filter papers instead which will generally be even finer.
xt30's are rated to 30 amps of dc current, at 500V. so while not technically mains rated, ~240 at what, an amp? maybe 2 at most? i can't imagine its that bad, aside from the obvious concern. questionable, but i've seen infinitely worse.
Oh absolutely. It's just that there is already a perfect standard for that - in the UK we call it "figure of 8" :) I was 100% not concerned about the ability of the connector to carry 220V and the current needed for the plate - my concern is that it comes off and shocks me :) Thanks for watching!
Hi tony, thanks for the video. You adressed the concern i was looking for. It is always a must do to check earthing on this chinese devices. Did you have any problems with your cable socket and the high temperatures? Keep up the good work. Best regards diego
To be fair I haven't used that heater since the video so I cannot comment on longevity! :) The rule of thumbs is "never leave a 220V Aliexpress item unattended" Thank you!
Your hot plate unit looks substantially more dodgy in all the little nooks and details than the one I got for hardly more money. The plug isn't centered in the moulding, whereas mine is perfectly centered! I cut my power lead short and replaced part of it with a copper one. The copper clad aluminium conductors in the original cable are fine and safe like they are, but I have a zero tolerance on copper clad wiring in my shop to eliminate the chance of confusion.
when Aliexpress is involved, it's quite difficult to get consistent results. There are copies of copies of everything and you never know what you'll be getting. :)
It's also a bit old - it's a "mechanic" but "mechanic" is anything nowadays. Nothing special though, I never use it for proper jobs so that'll do for now but thanks for mentioning!
Mechanic is a vaguely reputable rework tools brand out of China. I wouldn't normally expect their stuff to be dodgy regardless of price. But then you show the XT30 socket in the back. OK but reading the XT30 spec it's specified to 500V so uhhh i don't know, for sure does not account for touch hazard. It's beyond me why they haven't just installed a C8 socket. And yeah not grounding the top metal is not ideal. I like that the secondary is coming out of the top of the transformer while primary is coming in through the bottom. Makes it less likely that it's going short primary to secondary. But not having seen inside i wouldn't be so bold as to declare it safe. I think you can bag washing liquid in a little freezer bag with your board in your ultrasonic, and fill outside with water. I have an ultrasonic somewhere the little basic discounter one but i haven't actually ever used it :D
I think "Mechanic" on Aliexpress is like "Kingbo" flux. It doesn't exist apparently and nobody knows where it comes from. What I mean is: maybe there is a "mechanic" brand but there are 1000.0000.0000 copycats online with that name on it! Those connectors are usually for solar panels/batteries I think? I don't know, they might be safe for 500V but maybe not intended to be used at that voltage? I mean, a mains socket is probably rated 1000V but you don't use it on 1000V :) Thanks for watching!
@@Tony359_2 XT series connectors were originally developed by HobbyKing and Amass as cheaper better-ish and non-proprietary RC battery connectors. So yeah their intended use is vaguely for 30-ish volts DC, touch safe voltages. Not mains. Mechanic is an actual wholesaler brand with a known business address and normally Ali is surprisingly responsive when counterfeits are reported. But of course all sorts of things do slip through for a while and popular brands get counterfeited whether foreign or domestic.
Oh, if you think this cable of the heat-plate is kind of dodgy, wait for a video which I planned to do soon. The one I bought screams "I'll kill you" when you just look at it :) Though, I have to admit, it did the job which I needed it for. Anyhow, nice insights. Thanks!
Oh yes, I was expecting something MUCH more dangerous. There is a proper SMPS inside with some separation. I was expecting 220V dropped to 12V with a resistor :D
Looking forward to watching the killing machine video! :D
I think first attempt to flash the firmware worked. A factory fresh Pico goes straight to firmware update mode without pressing the button. The five flashes came from the BlueSCSI firmware indicating that it couldn't access the SD card.
Yes I think you're right. I guess it's explained in the instructions but... :D
Thank you. Very interesting, i like your natural flow of videos. Do more please
Thank you, more content will come! :)
Great job, cool way to use the tiny hot plate!
Thanks!
that soldering thing looks like magic, tbh :)
It Does! It's so mesmerising!
Love this! I use a glass jar large enough for my components that limits the amount of cleaning solution used and contain debris in my ultrasonic. I very rarely need the entire tank and usually just have water in it.
ah, interesting, I didn't know you could have a jar in the tank! One day I'll get an ultrasonic too.
For such prototyping or small series, you should order the stencil mask also. It makes life much easier by applying just the right amount of paste on exactly every pad.
And because the stencils are really cheap they are a no-brainer.
Yes, I wasn't aware those could be ordered - PCBWay mentioned me after watching the video :D
It was my first one...!
19:08 reminds me of the xbox one x power supplies where the primary side cap is covering some IC's that get extremely hot and cook the cap. Let alone theres no ventilation even if you get the type of supply that doesn't have the IC's under the cap. The one I replaced the cap on didn't have the IC's under it. That hot plate is neat. Might pick one up if the price is right. Thanks Tony.
Sometimes you think they do that on purpose, right? :)
@@Tony359_2 Right. Well how else would you buy the next new thing? Like a laptop I got recently. Battery is dead. 4 cell battery. One cell died, the other 3 are fine.
Guess I just need to make a few 3200mAh battery banks now and buy a new one.
Instead of the BMS just locking me out, some diagnostics would of been great. Without buying a $600 bit of equipment.
Literally color coded holes corresponding to each cells +/- strips would suffice. Marks on where to safely cut so you can extract and change the cell..
Thousands of shops probably PAY to dispose of them, when they're repairable/still good. Designed poorly.
Definitely, I'm building my own bluescsi(s) inspired by your video. Thank you very much for this.
Fantastic, I hope you're going to have the same fun I had!
That supply module will be a switching supply, the chip is likely hiding under the mains side electrolytic cap
The device that you thought was a mosfet is likely a triac
I showed the switching IC later on in the video 🙂
Yes I should have searched the name of the IC thanks for that!
Nice one, Tony! I also got a small preheater recently and it made my life so much easier!
I think I am going to use it very often for a number of small tasks!
Great video Tony!
I think the trick to getting a smooth result with solder paste and a hot plate is a stencil.
I’ve seen people use them elsewhere-I think you could scan the PCB, trace the solder pads, & send it out to be laser cut.
You could get one laser cut out of thin plastic & then apply a thin film of paste with a squeegee.
Never done it before-but I think it’s the trick to getting the proper amount of paste so as to limit or eliminate solder balls and bridges.
If you try this-show us! I’d love to see the process in action. I’ve only seen snippets of the procedure.
Indeed - PCBWay sent me a message on that subject: stencils can be ordered along with the PCB, it’s an option on the order page, I had no idea.
Much funnier to use a screwdriver though 😂
@@Tony359_2 lol! That’s good to know! I’ll keep that in mind if I order from them!
Very nice video! A few years ago, I converted a used toaster oven into a reflow oven. Also a really nice device to have.
I'd do that too if I had space. A PCB oven would always help.
You can put a pcb in a bag with solvent/cleaner and then stick it in an ultrasonic full of water. You use less cleaner that way and the junk that comes off stays in the bag.
I didn't know it was possible, thanks!
Hi Tony, you do have fun don't you 🤣 I admire your determination, well done. Bob
ahah yes, I admit I do have fun with these things :)
Really enjoyed the video, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you. A great job!
Hi Tony!
Reflow soldering is only done with SMD stencil.
Any PCB manufacturer will have an SMD stencil option, it must be used for solder paste, it makes sure that a precise solder paste quantity is used on each pad.
You do not have to waste too much time for precise component positioning, the solder once melted will center them quite nicely.
It takes some practice to perfect this method but once it is done, the results are quite spectacular.
PS: Still, in my view, reflow soldering is no fun, at least for me anyway.
I feel i have done nothing unless is solder each component by myself, and i love doing it all day long, especially for small SMD components 😅
I have done one such video, showing my way of soldering...
Yes, PCBWay actually mentioned that after I sent them the video! :) There is an option when you order the PCBs.
I still like the screwdriver method! :D
Very nice video Tony! I like your humor special at the first try with your solder paste. I needed to laugh some time with you :D
The inside view of the heater was very good. Very good idea to check tschieniese-stuff before use
it comes as a standard if it's mains rated! :)
Hi Tony, great job. I really like watching your videos. I repair various electronics myself, especially old motherboards, etc.
In my opinion, you should reverse the polarity of the mains power cables. The Blue wire should be Neutral and the Brown wire should be Live. It will be safer if the phase passes through a fuse. If you have connected the phase as in the video, and a failure occurs, blowing the fuse will not cut off the phase from the device. The phase may still be on the hot-plate.
Best wishes
Very interesting thanks. I followed the "N" and "L" on the SMPS legs. I didn't realise it ended up with the Neutral going on the fuse.
Your point is solid. Do you think it might upset the SMPS? I doubt it as the plug it came is non-poiarised.
Thanks for spotting that!
Nice work.
Thanks!
#4-40 1/4” screws are perfect for replacing the stand offs in the DB25 connector.
Thank you! I haven't got them unfortunately and also I need something low profile. Good to know the precise size though, I'll source some! Thanks again!
Another fun and interesting video. I wonder if the prolonged heating might affect the components in any way, versus regular soldering. I think PCBWay can make stencils for the paste which speeds things up.
They do! I didn't know, they let me know after watching the video LOL!
Components can withstand temperatures up to 170C I think no problem - more and you need to be quick. Pre-heating for soldering is only up to 100/120C so that is totally fine even for capacitors!
Thanks for watching!
I saw northwest using the mini preheater too and instantly went looking for one 🙂I thought aliexpress had stopped selling them though as I couldn't find any but after seeing this just have found and ordered one. 👍
Make sure you tweak it :)
I see NWR has made a fancy 3D printed holder on it! :)
As a re-tiered electrician. I can confirm the fuse should always be in the live conductor and not the neutral. And agree with @piotrokrutny477 stated below the metal plate could become live under fault conditions leaving it at 240volts.
Thank you! Would the switching module like being wired the other way round? I suppose so as the original plug was non-polarised.
@@Tony359_2 Hi
As the supply is AC the unit should work fine. which ever way it connected.
1st try, great!! Bravissimo!
That low 5 volt rail screams poor capacitors to me, the way it changes with load and where on the circuit you measure it. Also, when you were trying to remove bridges from the your newly made BlueSCSI board try a soldering iron bit with some flat face on it, flat surface will create an area of higher surface tension for a solder blob to form on the bit and off the pcb.
Thanks! My other flat tips are too big, I should buy a T210 knife bit, thanks for the suggestion!
The PSU on those old Mac's are not great - though that is a Sony PSU in a can. I only then remembered that I need to replace the socket of the ADB chip on that Mac - I replaced the chip (the cool repair video is on the main channel ruclips.net/video/siR-XEheM90/видео.html) and someone recommended the "turned" or "machined" sockets for better results. They were wrong! I should install a regular socket there asap! :)
solder paste is easier to use if you get a solder stencil when ordering PCBs.
For sure but if I can save 1p, I'd gladly spend 10 hours applying it with a screwdriver instead! :D
Sounds like an SE recapping is in order!
Maybe. But then I remembered that my ADB IC (which I replaced in the video repair) is on a "machined" socket. Someone recommended them to me but they are useless, the IC comes off by itself. So I think that that was the problem. Will check out :)
That connector looks like an XT30 they're rated to 500vdc but I wouldn't want one on the end of a mains lead!
I have a feeling it’s suitable for higher amps situations also given the chunky pins going in the PCB.
I swear, solder paste with a hot-plate and hot air just looks like magic and cheating rolled into one :D
it's mesmerising, isn't it? :D
don't get me wrong, but for my taste this channel is even better than the main one :)
Ahahah that’s good, it means I’m covering more things!
Not to be too picky, but you should always use ring style terminals, not the U shaped ones, for safety grounds. It prevents the ground from coming completely disconnected if the screw loosens a bit. I believe it is even a requirement of safety certifying agencies like UL, CSA, etc.
Not something g that would be easy to add after the fact, but it would also be nice if the top of the plate had at least been silk screened with a large “HOT” label. If they can manage to put their logo on it, you’d think the warning would be pretty easy. You could probably do it after the fact with a 3D printed stencil and some high temperature engine paint if you really wanted to.
I’m working on some projects that will need assembly of SMD parts and am looking at hot air stations and hot plates. Don’t think I’ll get this one - plus need 120V).
You’re totally right but I didn’t have them of a suitable size. I used what I had available 🙂
Talking of cheap, mains powered tools, I bought this 8508 hot air gun from Ali expecting it wouldn't be grounded and at least the tip is connected to ground!
Almost unbelievable :)
Title of this video is wrong. It really should be: "How high Tony will jump?" :D
Great video Tony, as always. ;)
ahaha I get scared easily! :)
Ok, couldn’t help myself not making a second comment. If you do decide to get an ultrasonic cleaner sometime and are worried about things like the little solder balks accumulating in the cleaning solution, just get some paint filters online or any hardware or paint store or even coffee filters and a stainless funnel that they will fit in and occasionally pour the solution through a filter to remove any accumulated particles. If you really want to be picky, order some laboratory chemical filter papers instead which will generally be even finer.
Of course thanks!
17:31 Yuk, a cable tie, A proper cable clamp would be much better
I know, I didn't want to order parts for that inexpensive tool.
That connector looks like a XT30 or XT60, these are rated to 600V and 30 or 60A
They can definitely do the job but they can also electrocute you :) They're definitely not good for mains.
I mean, changing the plug for UK one is fine, but the casing is not metal so you shouldn't worry about grounding it tho.
Im not grounding the case, I’m grounding the top plate which is aluminium
xt30's are rated to 30 amps of dc current, at 500V. so while not technically mains rated, ~240 at what, an amp? maybe 2 at most? i can't imagine its that bad, aside from the obvious concern.
questionable, but i've seen infinitely worse.
Oh absolutely. It's just that there is already a perfect standard for that - in the UK we call it "figure of 8" :)
I was 100% not concerned about the ability of the connector to carry 220V and the current needed for the plate - my concern is that it comes off and shocks me :)
Thanks for watching!
Hi tony, thanks for the video. You adressed the concern i was looking for. It is always a must do to check earthing on this chinese devices.
Did you have any problems with your cable socket and the high temperatures? Keep up the good work. Best regards diego
To be fair I haven't used that heater since the video so I cannot comment on longevity! :) The rule of thumbs is "never leave a 220V Aliexpress item unattended" Thank you!
Your hot plate unit looks substantially more dodgy in all the little nooks and details than the one I got for hardly more money. The plug isn't centered in the moulding, whereas mine is perfectly centered! I cut my power lead short and replaced part of it with a copper one. The copper clad aluminium conductors in the original cable are fine and safe like they are, but I have a zero tolerance on copper clad wiring in my shop to eliminate the chance of confusion.
when Aliexpress is involved, it's quite difficult to get consistent results. There are copies of copies of everything and you never know what you'll be getting. :)
@@Tony359_2 mine came from Mechanic directly, for what it's worth. I may get another one eventually, for other purposes
I only just noticed autocorrect popped eBay in there instead of "what" 🙈
I got a hot plate similar to that, its much smaller and uses USB C though. Ive had it a while but not tried it yet.
I think it's the one I mentioned. It's cool (not literally) but small and expensive I think?
@@Tony359_2 It cost me £23 from Amazon (with a £2 promotion discount)
@@Tony359_2 It was £23 from A**z*n
@@Tony359_2 It was 23 pounds from a**z*n (sorry its written wiered, comment keeps getting deleted)
@@Tony359_2 Ive been trying to reply but comment keep getting deleted. It was a couple of quid more than yours.
Needs recap
to be honest, it does. Those caps are clearly the worst of the worst! :D
I'm not sure what type of solder paste are you using but yours looks little bit too diluted. In the room temperature it should be much thicker.
It's also a bit old - it's a "mechanic" but "mechanic" is anything nowadays. Nothing special though, I never use it for proper jobs so that'll do for now but thanks for mentioning!
@@Tony359_2 Yeah, but I think that was a reason that you have those small solder bits all over the board
Everything from AliExpress is a safety hazard, and it will get worse with current situation in china with companies closing shop.
Worse than worse?
Mechanic is a vaguely reputable rework tools brand out of China. I wouldn't normally expect their stuff to be dodgy regardless of price.
But then you show the XT30 socket in the back. OK but reading the XT30 spec it's specified to 500V so uhhh i don't know, for sure does not account for touch hazard. It's beyond me why they haven't just installed a C8 socket.
And yeah not grounding the top metal is not ideal.
I like that the secondary is coming out of the top of the transformer while primary is coming in through the bottom. Makes it less likely that it's going short primary to secondary. But not having seen inside i wouldn't be so bold as to declare it safe.
I think you can bag washing liquid in a little freezer bag with your board in your ultrasonic, and fill outside with water. I have an ultrasonic somewhere the little basic discounter one but i haven't actually ever used it :D
I think "Mechanic" on Aliexpress is like "Kingbo" flux. It doesn't exist apparently and nobody knows where it comes from.
What I mean is: maybe there is a "mechanic" brand but there are 1000.0000.0000 copycats online with that name on it!
Those connectors are usually for solar panels/batteries I think? I don't know, they might be safe for 500V but maybe not intended to be used at that voltage? I mean, a mains socket is probably rated 1000V but you don't use it on 1000V :)
Thanks for watching!
@@Tony359_2 XT series connectors were originally developed by HobbyKing and Amass as cheaper better-ish and non-proprietary RC battery connectors. So yeah their intended use is vaguely for 30-ish volts DC, touch safe voltages. Not mains.
Mechanic is an actual wholesaler brand with a known business address and normally Ali is surprisingly responsive when counterfeits are reported. But of course all sorts of things do slip through for a while and popular brands get counterfeited whether foreign or domestic.
lousy music
Suggest a better one 🙂
@@Tony359_2 No music at all!
I don't like without music :)
@@Tony359_2 it's ok. I like the "m" Button 😆