My rule of thumb: oil is cheap, engines are not. I change my oil myself using oem filters only and synthetic oil every 5k kms or about 3k miles. I also keep a log of oil changes.
Yep true that. I usually do 3K to 5K but I think I will go with 3K moving forward with 4 Honda's in the family. 09' Civic 151K, 07 Civic Si 294K, 14 CR-V 147K, 22 Si 13K
I give the 2.0t CTR an Italian tune-up once a week "after" a good 25-30min of driving to get the oil up to temperature. Unlike the the NA S2000 fuel injected which does not mind being driving like another appliance around, these new turbo engines can benefit from sub 5K miles frequent oil changes and a proper spirited run. I never let the 2.0T warm up at idle--always turn it on and drive while it gets up to temperature.
Thanks for answering the my question on the flush, like I said I’ve personally used the bg EPR the small red can with good success. Also I’ve seen bg dynamic engine flush used on J series for burning oil on rear bank from the rings completely clear up. Just wanted to know a fellow techs opinion. Merry Christmas!
I noticed that idling in the winter does contribute to oil dilution. I put exactly 3.7qt into my Integra and the level was dead on. It got super cold and I idled a lot waiting for my kids, the oil level increased noticeably. Not crazy but it was up to the top end of the orange piece.
I have an RDX and have had major oil dilution problems when using 87 octane. I now run 93 octane and it’s a tremendous improvement. I wouldn’t say it’s an issue since I drain my oil every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. But if I see the oil level creeping up early during the winter months for example, I’ll drain to be on the safe side. Doing a drain myself is equivalent to the cost of half a tank of gas, so I’m not looking for the longest drain interval medal.
Does the 2017-2020 Civic SI coupe with 2.0L turbo have any major issues like the 1.5T? We sold our 2016 Civic with 1.5T but considering a used SI coupe that has a 2.0T.
The so doesn’t come 2.0t only the type R. The base model civics come in 2.0 or 1.5t. I’m assuming you mean the 2.0 na which is a great reliable engine.
I have a general question; if the transmission ONLY hard shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear what could the issue be? If I baby the throttle at that shift point the trans shifts without issue. All the other gears shift perfectly fine regardless of throttle input. The 2nd-3rd hard shift seems to be a little better once the car warms up but it’s still there. Maybe trans fluid and trans filter ?…. The car is a 01 Camry if that helps. Happy holidays and thanks for all you do
What do you think of shortening the oil intervals for all cars with a turbo down to 3K? The thin oil gets replaced before it brakes down too bad, the turbo already heats up the oil more than a natural asp engine and the potentially diluted oil gets replaced.
The orange oil dipstick on my RDX is maddening to get a good read. Much prefer the metal hash marks. BTW, is there a bit of cushion in oil capacity for most Hondas/Acuras if the oil level is literally only 1-2 mm above the full mark? Any risk of damage to engine?
i am looking into a 2013 crv exl with around 50,000.. anything i should look for or listen for in particular?? i think you have said they are good cars..port inject with regular trans..ty
@@Tracy-wr7mj they can have some issues. I’m going to try and get a video together. Overall I’d be looking for juddering trans, vtc gear rattle, oil consumption, etc. ask for maintenance records.
a crv 2016 ex still needs valve adjustments ? thought hydraulics adjust on their own.ty...my car is nearing 100 so i am considering the maintenance..if the spark plugs are fine i can wait?
My 2017 Honda is about 120k mileage, the engine still smooth and hear no cluttering nor tapping sound. So it doesn't need valve adjustment. The owners manual say no valve adjustment required during100,000 miles inspection unless valves are noisy.
I have a 2.0L CTR that gets driven 1k-2k miles a year and I change the oil annually. The car is located in the sunbelt (no sub 30 degree winters and no snow). For this Turbo engine, do you suggest I change the oil every 6 month (regardless of the mileage) or once a year if driving 2-3K miles a year?
Ok, maybe a dumb question. I have a 94 del Sol with a 1.8L B18C1 VTEC (From 94 Integra) and I only drive it about 800 to 1000 miles a year these days (Garage queen now), I have been doing just a yearly oil change with Mobile 1 full synthetic, should I be changing the oil more often and also, is it really necessary to change the filter each time or can I do it every other change at this point?
Hey when I get my pilot 100k timing belt changed what else should I get changed in or around the engine bay so I don’t have to worry about it until it hits 200k ? I do quite a bit DIY but definitely not something that involves working in the engine.
My understanding is that constantly driving a car at low rpm’s and rarely accelerating hard can actually be bad for an engine. My 24 LX Civic gets around traffic just fine and I rarely need to go over 3k RPMs. I will occasionally push it up to a 5k rpm’s, but I’m hesitant to push it much more with the CVT. Is it better to take it easy on the CVT and not worry much about the possible impact of constant low rpm driving, or is it better to push the engine up into the higher rpm’s from time to time? (I never do jack rabbit starts off the line with the CVT).
Mash the throttle when you need to. The CVT will handle it. As long as you do transmission fluid and filter change every 30,000 miles. My brother has a 2018 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport (L15BA engine) with the CVT. He follows that maintenance interval. Floors the throttle alot. His vehicle is running strong to this day.
It's funny to hear you say 3K to 5K oil changes. IF I listened to the Honda Maintenance Minder on my 22' Si it would be a good 6K to 7K between oil changes 😢. I just hit 13K and this was my 3rd oil change since new, October 2022.I do it myself I don't trust anyone else...as they won't care for my car as much as I would.
My ‘23 type r asked for its first oil change at 12,000 miles. Didn’t ask for a second yet (I’m at 20,000 now). I ignored it and did the first two changes at 6,000 and the third at 4,500. I’ll stick to 4000-5000.
Speaking of oil dilution: do you think using 92 octane fuel(instead of 87) will help with oil dilution and help to have less deposits on the valves? Asking for my 2024 Subaru Impreza with 2.5L(non-turbo) engine since it has a high 12.0:1 compression ratio.
Change your oil often and use 87 octane. The mileage interval depends on your common route. Is it one long drive with little to no traffic? Or is it a short drive with lots of stop and go traffic? Do you drive aggressively? Changing to a higher octane fuel could only do so much in terms of oil dilution. I drive aggressively to redline on a short route with plenty of stop and go traffic. I do 2,000 mile oil change intervals on my L15CA engine. I fill my car up with the recommended octane, 92, and it is from Shell. I still get oil dilution because of the nature of my engine. Which is why changing the oil often will help you more than anything else.
@@billwylde4846 I was mainly interested in finding out if somehow 92 octane would burn hotter and leave less residue on the intake valves. As for my drive, shorter ~ 9 miles one way drive with some to moderate traffic (city stop and go). On the way back usually freeway with less traffic. Not usually aggressive driving, however hitting around 5-5.5k RPM on highway merge or passing.
@@Charkatak Using 91 octane or higher is not going to do much for carbon deposits when it comes to direct injection. Since the fuel injectors aren't spraying on to the intake valves. Also, 87 octane runs hotter than 92 octane because 87 octane is easier to combust. The most you can do right now is change your oil often and hope your particular engine doesn't suffer too much from carbon deposit build up on the intake valves as time goes on. Do research about your engine on Google. Information about it will change as owners keep their vehicles longer. I know Honda's L15 turbo engines doesn't have that big of an issue with carbon deposit on the intake valves. Compared to Honda's L15 non turbo engines with direct injection that did have the issue. The issue was bad enough for Honda to issue a TSB for that particular engine. If your engine is notorious for having bad carbon deposits on the intake valves. Unfortunately, that is another MAINTENANCE task to do on your engine. There is nothing that can fix the inherit engine issue. Walnut blasting media would be the best way to clean off carbon deposits from your intake valves. I am not a fan of chemical based cleaners like Seafoam. Due to the fact if the chemical procedure isn't followed properlyly, you'll have a check engine light or your engine could go into limp mode as you drive your vehicle. Look up Subaru's FA20F's carbon deposit problem on Google. You'll have an idea what issues the owners had to go through.
my dentist no longer deal with insurance for coverage payments. I have to pay in advance and deal with the insurance to get reimbursed. I think dealers should do the same and maybe customers will stop paying for shady repair insurance.
We bought our 23 Pilot (13k miles) used from a non Honda dealer and I ended up buying the extended warranty from them….7 years 70k miles, but I negotiated a cheap price for it I think. I am hoping to never have to use it, but this freaking Pilot has so much on it something WILL break and it’s going to be expensive.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the info as always brother. Merry Christmas to you and your family!
@@JimG27 you as well
My rule of thumb: oil is cheap, engines are not. I change my oil myself using oem filters only and synthetic oil every 5k kms or about 3k miles. I also keep a log of oil changes.
Wise man.
@@ChrisHsuCars absolutely
Yep true that. I usually do 3K to 5K but I think I will go with 3K moving forward with 4 Honda's in the family. 09' Civic 151K, 07 Civic Si 294K, 14 CR-V 147K, 22 Si 13K
@ ✅✅
Great idea with the dipstick! Merry Christmas Jersey!
@@frankievalentin533 merry Christmas!
Those orange dipstick was giving me hell lol.
@@jayo8484 it’s such an overthought. Why fix something that wasn’t broken.
Yeah, it's hard to read.
That orange plastic dipstick sucks.
@ 💯
@@BCautosolutionsprobs cheaper to mass produce plastic than metal
Thanks ....
Merry Christmas 🎄
@@lionheart1916 you as well
I give the 2.0t CTR an Italian tune-up once a week "after" a good 25-30min of driving to get the oil up to temperature. Unlike the the NA S2000 fuel injected which does not mind being driving like another appliance around, these new turbo engines can benefit from sub 5K miles frequent oil changes and a proper spirited run. I never let the 2.0T warm up at idle--always turn it on and drive while it gets up to temperature.
@@apolloandratti7922 good approach 👍🏻
Thanks for answering the my question on the flush, like I said I’ve personally used the bg EPR the small red can with good success. Also I’ve seen bg dynamic engine flush used on J series for burning oil on rear bank from the rings completely clear up. Just wanted to know a fellow techs opinion. Merry Christmas!
@@angelmerino19 you got it. Merry Christmas to you and yours 👍🏻
Good info on the engine flush and oil change intervals. Merry Christmas!
@@denvernn you too!
Merry Christmas Bor, Gold bless you and your loving belongs.
@@Xshipgogogo thank you and likewise to you and yours
I noticed that idling in the winter does contribute to oil dilution. I put exactly 3.7qt into my Integra and the level was dead on. It got super cold and I idled a lot waiting for my kids, the oil level increased noticeably. Not crazy but it was up to the top end of the orange piece.
@@dmitrynetes3102 yup, it’s a thing unfortunately
Thank you, sir. Merry Christmas, and have a happy new year.
@@luismarty1685 likewise to you and your family
I have an RDX and have had major oil dilution problems when using 87 octane. I now run 93 octane and it’s a tremendous improvement. I wouldn’t say it’s an issue since I drain my oil every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. But if I see the oil level creeping up early during the winter months for example, I’ll drain to be on the safe side. Doing a drain myself is equivalent to the cost of half a tank of gas, so I’m not looking for the longest drain interval medal.
Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
You as well!
Some people remove the plastic from the end of the dipstick.
No need for any little pieces of plastic in the oil pan anyway...
@@MacCready_ true. I’m going to try this.
Does the metal have the marks? It’s a good idea, perhaps drill where the plastic marks are before removing the stupid orange plastic.
@@edwarner504 has two holes iirc, the top hole is pretty close to the full mark on the plastic part.
My Accord Hybrid has 6,400 miles. I've changed the oil 3 times so far.
You’re crazy
@star9732 I don't drive much so I change it every 6 months. I bought it August 2023.
@ that makes more sense.
@@larryharry7221 I’m not mad at it, hybrids have a tendency to oil dilution promotion as they have a hard time reaching operating temps
Does the 2017-2020 Civic SI coupe with 2.0L turbo have any major issues like the 1.5T? We sold our 2016 Civic with 1.5T but considering a used SI coupe that has a 2.0T.
The so doesn’t come 2.0t only the type R. The base model civics come in 2.0 or 1.5t. I’m assuming you mean the 2.0 na which is a great reliable engine.
@ hum… i thought the SI was 2.0T. so the SI 1.5T has the same issues as all 1.5T? Unfortunately I can’t afford the type-R. :(
@@HiFiInsider Si has a 1.5t with a little more power.
@ yes by design they have the same exact issue
@@BCautosolutions thank you!
I have a general question; if the transmission ONLY hard shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear what could the issue be? If I baby the throttle at that shift point the trans shifts without issue. All the other gears shift perfectly fine regardless of throttle input. The 2nd-3rd hard shift seems to be a little better once the car warms up but it’s still there. Maybe trans fluid and trans filter ?…. The car is a 01 Camry if that helps. Happy holidays and thanks for all you do
What do you think of shortening the oil intervals for all cars with a turbo down to 3K? The thin oil gets replaced before it brakes down too bad, the turbo already heats up the oil more than a natural asp engine and the potentially diluted oil gets replaced.
Trans dipstick level to top dot or is middle of the two dots okay? My owners manual (2020 pilot 6 speed) says to bring to dealership. 🙄
Middle is just fine. Is probably less the 1/2 a quart from top dot. Don’t sweat it.
Any updates on the 2025 CR-V that caught fire? What caused it?
@@DDIYNETWORK I haven’t heard anything. Would love to hear from the owner on what went down
The orange oil dipstick on my RDX is maddening to get a good read. Much prefer the metal hash marks. BTW, is there a bit of cushion in oil capacity for most Hondas/Acuras if the oil level is literally only 1-2 mm above the full mark? Any risk of damage to engine?
@@FourTheWheels yes, you will be fine 1-2mm over
Appreciate your reply! Happy holidays and thanks for all you do for the Honda/Acura community!
@ happy holidays to you and yours!
i am looking into a 2013 crv exl with around 50,000.. anything i should look for or listen for in particular?? i think you have said they are good cars..port inject with regular trans..ty
@@Tracy-wr7mj they can have some issues. I’m going to try and get a video together. Overall I’d be looking for juddering trans, vtc gear rattle, oil consumption, etc. ask for maintenance records.
a crv 2016 ex still needs valve adjustments ? thought hydraulics adjust on their own.ty...my car is nearing 100 so i am considering the maintenance..if the spark plugs are fine i can wait?
@@Tracy-wr7mj yes, they still have adjustable rockers. The only Honda right now without any adjustments is the j30ac and j35y8
My 2017 Honda is about 120k mileage, the engine still smooth and hear no cluttering nor tapping sound. So it doesn't need valve adjustment.
The owners manual say no valve adjustment required during100,000 miles inspection unless valves are noisy.
@ typically the tighten and would never be noisy 👍🏻
I have a 2.0L CTR that gets driven 1k-2k miles a year and I change the oil annually. The car is located in the sunbelt (no sub 30 degree winters and no snow). For this Turbo engine, do you suggest I change the oil every 6 month (regardless of the mileage) or once a year if driving 2-3K miles a year?
Ok, maybe a dumb question. I have a 94 del Sol with a 1.8L B18C1 VTEC (From 94 Integra) and I only drive it about 800 to 1000 miles a year these days (Garage queen now), I have been doing just a yearly oil change with Mobile 1 full synthetic, should I be changing the oil more often and also, is it really necessary to change the filter each time or can I do it every other change at this point?
Hey when I get my pilot 100k timing belt changed what else should I get changed in or around the engine bay so I don’t have to worry about it until it hits 200k ? I do quite a bit DIY but definitely not something that involves working in the engine.
My understanding is that constantly driving a car at low rpm’s and rarely accelerating hard can actually be bad for an engine. My 24 LX Civic gets around traffic just fine and I rarely need to go over 3k RPMs. I will occasionally push it up to a 5k rpm’s, but I’m hesitant to push it much more with the CVT. Is it better to take it easy on the CVT and not worry much about the possible impact of constant low rpm driving, or is it better to push the engine up into the higher rpm’s from time to time?
(I never do jack rabbit starts off the line with the CVT).
Mash the throttle when you need to. The CVT will handle it. As long as you do transmission fluid and filter change every 30,000 miles. My brother has a 2018 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport (L15BA engine) with the CVT. He follows that maintenance interval. Floors the throttle alot. His vehicle is running strong to this day.
It's funny to hear you say 3K to 5K oil changes. IF I listened to the Honda Maintenance Minder on my 22' Si it would be a good 6K to 7K between oil changes 😢. I just hit 13K and this was my 3rd oil change since new, October 2022.I do it myself I don't trust anyone else...as they won't care for my car as much as I would.
Yeah my Tlx would go 10k intervals. Absolutely ludacris.
I’m at 21,000 and had my oil changed 6x allready lol
@@jayo8484 Im all for it 💪🏼
My ‘23 type r asked for its first oil change at 12,000 miles. Didn’t ask for a second yet (I’m at 20,000 now).
I ignored it and did the first two changes at 6,000 and the third at 4,500. I’ll stick to 4000-5000.
@ 🙌
Speaking of oil dilution: do you think using 92 octane fuel(instead of 87) will help with oil dilution and help to have less deposits on the valves? Asking for my 2024 Subaru Impreza with 2.5L(non-turbo) engine since it has a high 12.0:1
compression ratio.
Change your oil often and use 87 octane. The mileage interval depends on your common route. Is it one long drive with little to no traffic? Or is it a short drive with lots of stop and go traffic? Do you drive aggressively?
Changing to a higher octane fuel could only do so much in terms of oil dilution.
I drive aggressively to redline on a short route with plenty of stop and go traffic. I do 2,000 mile oil change intervals on my L15CA engine. I fill my car up with the recommended octane, 92, and it is from Shell.
I still get oil dilution because of the nature of my engine. Which is why changing the oil often will help you more than anything else.
@@billwylde4846 I was mainly interested in finding out if somehow 92 octane would burn hotter and leave less residue on the intake valves. As for my drive, shorter ~ 9 miles one way drive with some to moderate traffic (city stop and go). On the way back usually freeway with less traffic. Not usually aggressive driving, however hitting around 5-5.5k RPM on highway merge or passing.
@@Charkatak Using 91 octane or higher is not going to do much for carbon deposits when it comes to direct injection. Since the fuel injectors aren't spraying on to the intake valves. Also, 87 octane runs hotter than 92 octane because 87 octane is easier to combust. The most you can do right now is change your oil often and hope your particular engine doesn't suffer too much from carbon deposit build up on the intake valves as time goes on. Do research about your engine on Google. Information about it will change as owners keep their vehicles longer.
I know Honda's L15 turbo engines doesn't have that big of an issue with carbon deposit on the intake valves. Compared to Honda's L15 non turbo engines with direct injection that did have the issue. The issue was bad enough for Honda to issue a TSB for that particular engine.
If your engine is notorious for having bad carbon deposits on the intake valves. Unfortunately, that is another MAINTENANCE task to do on your engine. There is nothing that can fix the inherit engine issue. Walnut blasting media would be the best way to clean off carbon deposits from your intake valves. I am not a fan of chemical based cleaners like Seafoam. Due to the fact if the chemical procedure isn't followed properlyly, you'll have a check engine light or your engine could go into limp mode as you drive your vehicle.
Look up Subaru's FA20F's carbon deposit problem on Google. You'll have an idea what issues the owners had to go through.
@@Charkatak Keep on top of your FB25D engine. Also, be careful with Google's A.I. answer. Research further than the first answer you see on Google.
my dentist no longer deal with insurance for coverage payments. I have to pay in advance and deal with the insurance to get reimbursed. I think dealers should do the same and maybe customers will stop paying for shady repair insurance.
Yep it’s truly a hassle sometimes and you’re talking to someone on the other side who has zero idea how a car works and just reading a script.
So don’t trust third-party warranty 😅
@@bikingmoments no, most of them are absolutely horrendous. Once and I while one surprises us but most are a rip off.
We bought our 23 Pilot (13k miles) used from a non Honda dealer and I ended up buying the extended warranty from them….7 years 70k miles, but I negotiated a cheap price for it I think. I am hoping to never have to use it, but this freaking Pilot has so much on it something WILL break and it’s going to be expensive.
@ agreed on something having the chance of breaking: I wish you the best of luck and congrats!
who tells you to do Engine oil flushes, who is really stupid and bad
@@Xshipgogogo 😬