In 2013 I paid $13k for a df300(wo rigging), in 2019 I paid about $21k, and this past summer $23.5k. Other than the price gouging by dealers during Covid, the biggest factor for me now is that while I used to finance I now pay cash.
I can give you the facts. All 4.2 Yamaha are the exact same engine, same compression, injectors, cams. They are all identical. I think there is a total of 13 models. Yamaha uses the electronic throttle to limit horsepower. The reason the 300hp requires higher octane is it runs more aggressive timing in the top end. You can get a Nizpro marine tune to make 332hp out of any 4.2 Yamaha. The reason I know all this is I have done extensive research into it and have spoken at length to nizpro and have tuned mine from 250 to 332. Huge difference an very happy. Not associated with nizpro.
That’s cool you used to live in Destin where I lived my whole life. Love the podcast. What is your best tip for getting looks to be mold out of a fuel tank? I got a 2021 bluewave 2200 purebay with look like tiny mold chunks every time a change my racor fuel filter. Dealer says we might have to have it polished. Been a problem since I bought the boat. 315hrs on it now and starting to have VST problems. It does not sound like the dealer is going to cover any of it unfortunately. Also what do you think caused it. I run nothing but non ethanol. Boat did sit at the dealer for a long time before I got it.
It's a beautiful place for sure! Love it up there :) Thank you and um, not sure, yeah, polishing the fuel would be the thing to fix it. But there's really only 2 things that should be able to cause that. Either you got a bad batch of fuel with a bunch of junk in it, or there was something inside the tank from the factory, kind of only really those two options for having stuff in the tank. Unless there's something else wrong with the tank that is allowing stuff to get in it. But, it's hard to say which is what happened. You should probably pull the fuel tank sender and take a flash light and look down into the tank, also get a little mirror that you can use to look around in the fuel tank to see what's going on
We just made a video on the main channel about Lithium Starting batteries! ruclips.net/video/VGO-qvC4VLM/видео.htmlsi=jCGcNmQtYnyvAAYh I'm all about Lithium honestly, it's pricier, but they last 3-4 times longer than lead acid. But you gotta be careful about the type and brand that you buy, you can't get the cheap ones because it will mess up your stator if the BMS isn't right. Also, you gotta make sure its a LFP not an NMC, but the downside with Yamaha is that if you need to something warranty wise, they don't like Lithiums and they might give you a hard time, depending on the issue. A good Lithium with a good BMS, won't mess anything up, but a cheap Lithium with a cheaper BMS can cause you all kinds of problems with the engine disconnecting from the battery and some other stuff with the charging. So, there's a little bit to it. Also, depends on how big the Yamaha is, some of the more power hungry larger ones have some issues depending on the size of the Lithium you get, based on the amps they put out and what they get back from the battery and etc. But, if you can buy a Lithium for like $800-1000 and use it for 15 years, I'm all for that!
Another good video love the content. I work on boats frequently and I was wondering if I could run an engine on a stand or a boat with the batteries removed by hooking up my jump pack directly to the battery cables of the engine. Makes it easy because you dont need to haul a heavy battery around. My question is will the jump pack mess up the ECU or other electronics in the engine because of its high amperage or is it safe for the engine?
Yeah, ummm, I'd stick with the battery if you want to run it. We use the jump packs all the time to hook up to engines like that, but that's just for getting downloads, looking at the engine data at key on, or like trimming the engine. If you are going to run the engine, you really need the battery for the computer, charge power from stator, rectifier regulator, and other stuff that really need to have a battery. The engine has a specific amount of amperage and power that it's consuming to run itself, like the fuel pump, ECU, etc. and the jump pack is more for like, suppling power for the starter and that's it, not really good for constant usage like with a running engine :(
We all know how well owners don't take care of their boats and always seem to find some sort of work around to circumvent correct repairs and maintenance and now people want a pressurized container of hydrogen that weighs maybe 100 times more than gasoline systems that are have a much more potential for being bombs than gasoline ever did?
I am swapping my 2004 Yamaha 225 for a 2021 Yamaha 250. Would you advise swapping the prop out or since they are similar engines use my 225 prop. Having to swap because I cannot locate an exhaust tuner for my 225. Tu
I just swapped a 2004 f 225 for a 2024 250 sho the 225 had a 19 pitch 14 inch diameter the boat had a top speed of 52 mph. I put a Yamaha Saltwater series 2 with the same 19 pitch but 15 diameter top speed now is 60 mph at 6000 rpm the modern 4.2 has taller gearing than the older f 225
There's actually a difference in compression between the 250 Yamaha and 300 The 250 Is runs on 87 octane Is 300 requires 89 octane The easiest way to go from 250 to 300 is to buy the 250 SHO The SHO Has the same output as the 300 offshore
I stand corrected All the 4.2s have a 10.3:1 compression ratio The 300 and 250 SHO require 89 octane. I can only assume that due to different ignition timing I do stand by my statement that the 250SHO has substantially the same output as the 300 The 250 SHO has better low-end torque VS the 300 slightly better top end
Железо надо смотреть. Обычная серия ямах ф150-175-200 отличается рабочим объёмом, распредвалами и фазовращателем у 200. А вот если у вас вф150 шо в- макс, то его можно раздушить в 200 сил путëм замены эбу либо перепрошивки эбу.
Yup! I always looked at it like if you have the money for a new engine, why not just buy the HP you need :) lol but I also get it, what's available, how much money is in the bank, how much the loan is, etc. a lot of variables
In 2013 I paid $13k for a df300(wo rigging), in 2019 I paid about $21k, and this past summer $23.5k. Other than the price gouging by dealers during Covid, the biggest factor for me now is that while I used to finance I now pay cash.
I am looking at the Nizpro 144 tune on my new F115. Good to hear that you like yours.
The Yamaha 4.2 300 is the Toyota Corolla of outboards… don’t mess with it! Enjoy it!
I support this lol :) love the 4.2!
Thanks for answering my question! Interesting stuff!
I can give you the facts.
All 4.2 Yamaha are the exact same engine, same compression, injectors, cams. They are all identical. I think there is a total of 13 models. Yamaha uses the electronic throttle to limit horsepower. The reason the 300hp requires higher octane is it runs more aggressive timing in the top end.
You can get a Nizpro marine tune to make 332hp out of any 4.2 Yamaha.
The reason I know all this is I have done extensive research into it and have spoken at length to nizpro and have tuned mine from 250 to 332. Huge difference an very happy.
Not associated with nizpro.
Awesome! Thank you!
That’s cool you used to live in Destin where I lived my whole life. Love the podcast. What is your best tip for getting looks to be mold out of a fuel tank? I got a 2021 bluewave 2200 purebay with look like tiny mold chunks every time a change my racor fuel filter. Dealer says we might have to have it polished. Been a problem since I bought the boat. 315hrs on it now and starting to have VST problems. It does not sound like the dealer is going to cover any of it unfortunately. Also what do you think caused it. I run nothing but non ethanol. Boat did sit at the dealer for a long time before I got it.
It's a beautiful place for sure! Love it up there :) Thank you and um, not sure, yeah, polishing the fuel would be the thing to fix it. But there's really only 2 things that should be able to cause that.
Either you got a bad batch of fuel with a bunch of junk in it, or there was something inside the tank from the factory, kind of only really those two options for having stuff in the tank.
Unless there's something else wrong with the tank that is allowing stuff to get in it. But, it's hard to say which is what happened. You should probably pull the fuel tank sender and take a flash light and look down into the tank, also get a little mirror that you can use to look around in the fuel tank to see what's going on
What is your opinion on using lithium starting batteries with Yamaha outboards?
We just made a video on the main channel about Lithium Starting batteries!
ruclips.net/video/VGO-qvC4VLM/видео.htmlsi=jCGcNmQtYnyvAAYh
I'm all about Lithium honestly, it's pricier, but they last 3-4 times longer than lead acid. But you gotta be careful about the type and brand that you buy, you can't get the cheap ones because it will mess up your stator if the BMS isn't right.
Also, you gotta make sure its a LFP not an NMC, but the downside with Yamaha is that if you need to something warranty wise, they don't like Lithiums and they might give you a hard time, depending on the issue.
A good Lithium with a good BMS, won't mess anything up, but a cheap Lithium with a cheaper BMS can cause you all kinds of problems with the engine disconnecting from the battery and some other stuff with the charging. So, there's a little bit to it.
Also, depends on how big the Yamaha is, some of the more power hungry larger ones have some issues depending on the size of the Lithium you get, based on the amps they put out and what they get back from the battery and etc.
But, if you can buy a Lithium for like $800-1000 and use it for 15 years, I'm all for that!
Бери литиево- натриевые батареи. Всë будет хорошо.
Another good video love the content. I work on boats frequently and I was wondering if I could run an engine on a stand or a boat with the batteries removed by hooking up my jump pack directly to the battery cables of the engine. Makes it easy because you dont need to haul a heavy battery around. My question is will the jump pack mess up the ECU or other electronics in the engine because of its high amperage or is it safe for the engine?
I wouldnt try to start it without the full amps capacity as you may destroy the ecm with low voltage. Been there and the computer got scrambled
Yeah thats what I was worried about.
Yeah, ummm, I'd stick with the battery if you want to run it. We use the jump packs all the time to hook up to engines like that, but that's just for getting downloads, looking at the engine data at key on, or like trimming the engine. If you are going to run the engine, you really need the battery for the computer, charge power from stator, rectifier regulator, and other stuff that really need to have a battery.
The engine has a specific amount of amperage and power that it's consuming to run itself, like the fuel pump, ECU, etc. and the jump pack is more for like, suppling power for the starter and that's it, not really good for constant usage like with a running engine :(
We all know how well owners don't take care of their boats and always seem to find some sort of work around to circumvent correct repairs and maintenance and now people want a pressurized container of hydrogen that weighs maybe 100 times more than gasoline systems that are have a much more potential for being bombs than gasoline ever did?
I am swapping my 2004 Yamaha 225 for a 2021 Yamaha 250. Would you advise swapping the prop out or since they are similar engines use my 225 prop.
Having to swap because I cannot locate an exhaust tuner for my 225. Tu
I just swapped a 2004 f 225 for a 2024 250 sho the 225 had a 19 pitch 14 inch diameter the boat had a top speed of 52 mph. I put a Yamaha Saltwater series 2 with the same 19 pitch but 15 diameter top speed now is 60 mph at 6000 rpm the modern 4.2 has taller gearing than the older f 225
Got a question...
Can lower unit pinion gear be swapped to have the prop operate counter clockwise?
Thank you for your input! Your question has been saved for a thorough response in a future episode. Don't miss it!
There's actually a difference in compression between the 250 Yamaha and 300
The 250 Is runs on 87 octane
Is 300 requires 89 octane
The easiest way to go from 250 to 300 is to buy the 250 SHO
The SHO Has the same output as the 300 offshore
Are you sure there is a compression ratio difference? Higher octane requirement could be because of different ignition timing tune
I stand corrected
All the 4.2s have a 10.3:1 compression ratio
The 300 and 250 SHO require 89 octane. I can only assume that due to different ignition timing
I do stand by my statement that the 250SHO has substantially the same output as the 300
The 250 SHO has better low-end torque VS the 300 slightly better top end
У 250 SHO по факту 275 лошадиных сил.
The 300 offshore also has 275hp
Can you add horse power to a 2013 Yamaha 150.
You can get a Nizpro tune I think they go up to like 197HP after the tune, but I don't know much about it
The nizpro tune goes up to 232 hp
Железо надо смотреть. Обычная серия ямах ф150-175-200 отличается рабочим объёмом, распредвалами и фазовращателем у 200. А вот если у вас вф150 шо в- макс, то его можно раздушить в 200 сил путëм замены эбу либо перепрошивки эбу.
I think a lot of these guys should just put wings on their boats, on plane is fast enough for me, and I cant fish from a plane
Lol :)
Way to expensive to gamble if its under warranty and you have an issue.
Yup! I always looked at it like if you have the money for a new engine, why not just buy the HP you need :) lol but I also get it, what's available, how much money is in the bank, how much the loan is, etc. a lot of variables
Different crank is biggest issue.
So much false information in this video…….😂😂