For anybody who's gotten to where you need to attach the alternator wire/lug but don't have a 90° lug like this feller- with a little elbow grease I was able to bend one of the pure/100%OFC lugs that came w the kit I have..... Ps thanks for this! Was having a massive brain fart and the diagrams that came w my ISO and big 3 upgrade don't show it. So yeah. Thanks!
The Big 3, in my opinion, has to be the most overlooked part of any car stereo install. It's really not 3 though. It's more like the Big 5 or 6 depending on the vehicle. Even if you do not have a stereo system in your vehicle but do have aftermarket accessories that use electrics, you *NEED* to do the Big 3 mod.
Ok I'm back.. the + wire that comes from the fuse box... That's just the "other side" of the alternator wire right? Could I just skip the whole fuse box, attach my own as if it were a sub, call it a day? Or will that mess w CE light maybe?
Couple comments/questions - can you discuss the inline fuse added? And can you explain the part about extending the starter cable why that was done? Also, did you keep the factory starter cable for some reason or just were only worried about the car audio side of things? Great video and excellent craftsmanship! One thing I do is tin all the leads before crimping on a connector, and also put some dielectric gel just before heat shrinking. I am in a coastal area with high humidity and salt and it keeps it uncorroded
It's not for more sound. It's to provide more charging capability to your battery when you're really bangin on your system. As the volume gets louder, and with different bass notes creating different impedence, the amp draws more power from your charging system to attempt to keep the same volume. Better charging, means more available power for that draw. Also, amplifiers are meant to be run at around 14 volts to create the power needed to supply the wattage at volume. When that voltage dips too much, you're now asking your amp to produce the same output with less power input. This causes your amp to over work, creating heat which will burn up your amp. It's kinda like asking you to do a lot of physical labor with no food. So, if you're not concerned with the longevity of your sound equipment, then yes, it's too much work for no notable sound improvement. If you are concerned with longevity and getting the best out of the money you spend on car audio, then with 20 minutes of your time and about $30 for the kit, you can relax knowing that your system is gettimg all the juice it possibly can.
Wow bud that explanation is so wrong. First off the fuse should be closer to the alternator. Second because the alternator is the supply the wire isn't protected from fuse to the alternator ( so shorter run from the alternator to the fuse ) Lastly I put it this way if you alternator wire has its own fuse factory then you would do that for your big 3 ether way your put loom/tesa tape/heat shrink on all wires on the outside of cab. You always leave the factory on for many reasons, short explanation the added wires just give you a easier and faster flow of maximum amps/ voltage. ( the big 3 is the alternator + to battery + motor ground to chassis and battery ground to chassis...... the 4th is the alternator ground to the battery. If you don't know what that is then you shouldn't be doing this! ( it's the mounting bracket bolt for the alternator).
@mmadd7 that's a nice opinion lol. Problem is I am right. And fact for you that was back by mechanic. If you want to follow what he did go for bud more power to you. I posted this so people could know the facts.
This Tacoma is basically the exact same setup as my 4Runner so this helps me quite a bit. I’ve got a good game plan now. Thanks!
Great video! Informative, good shots, clear communication, awesome!
For anybody who's gotten to where you need to attach the alternator wire/lug but don't have a 90° lug like this feller- with a little elbow grease I was able to bend one of the pure/100%OFC lugs that came w the kit I have..... Ps thanks for this! Was having a massive brain fart and the diagrams that came w my ISO and big 3 upgrade don't show it. So yeah. Thanks!
I recommend upgrading your lead acid battery to an AGM. Better power output!
The Big 3, in my opinion, has to be the most overlooked part of any car stereo install. It's really not 3 though. It's more like the Big 5 or 6 depending on the vehicle.
Even if you do not have a stereo system in your vehicle but do have aftermarket accessories that use electrics, you *NEED* to do the Big 3 mod.
Very clean, very neat and very good looking work! 👍🏾🎯
Dude that was the best fucking video of upgrading the big 3 genuinely good job explaining it!!!!
Just upgraded my terminals and got the same cable for my extension. Great job!
What kind of cable is that ?
Bro next level stuff! Loved the series!
great system very clean
Have you consider putting up links to the tools and gear you use in your project?
Great job and explaining how to do it custom work
What if you just run a new wire from your battery to your alternator and just add a fuse?
Great video! Could you post links to the items you used.
Dude we need a demo!!! I want to hear what the bass sounds like cause I’m getting ready to copy this build for my taco 😆
Ok I'm back.. the + wire that comes from the fuse box... That's just the "other side" of the alternator wire right? Could I just skip the whole fuse box, attach my own as if it were a sub, call it a day? Or will that mess w CE light maybe?
do you think id be good to run a 1200rms subwoofer 1500watt max on this setup i have the same truck and same battery
Awesome video. What size ring terminals and loom did you use? Thank you. 👍
What was the length of the positive cable from the alternator? And how much wire did you use all together?
Amazon has new high intake ear drums too
Man who is this guy
Some dude ??
Do you have a link to the parts and tools that you used..thanks!!
Need a video of finished product and play couple songs
What was the high output alternator he used?
Couple comments/questions - can you discuss the inline fuse added? And can you explain the part about extending the starter cable why that was done? Also, did you keep the factory starter cable for some reason or just were only worried about the car audio side of things? Great video and excellent craftsmanship!
One thing I do is tin all the leads before crimping on a connector, and also put some dielectric gel just before heat shrinking. I am in a coastal area with high humidity and salt and it keeps it uncorroded
He extended the starter cable because it would be too short to reach the battery when he cut off the old terminal to replace it.
Awesome !
so how are you liking the bass from those shallow woofers?
he fuse does not protect the wire
Hey you should help me do a install on my Tacoma !?
Agm or lithium main battery is a must w that low power lead acid your losing a lot of power and system life.
Part 5?
Yessssssssssssss
Asap!!
Too much work and no sound difference, good job
It's not for more sound. It's to provide more charging capability to your battery when you're really bangin on your system. As the volume gets louder, and with different bass notes creating different impedence, the amp draws more power from your charging system to attempt to keep the same volume. Better charging, means more available power for that draw. Also, amplifiers are meant to be run at around 14 volts to create the power needed to supply the wattage at volume. When that voltage dips too much, you're now asking your amp to produce the same output with less power input. This causes your amp to over work, creating heat which will burn up your amp. It's kinda like asking you to do a lot of physical labor with no food. So, if you're not concerned with the longevity of your sound equipment, then yes, it's too much work for no notable sound improvement. If you are concerned with longevity and getting the best out of the money you spend on car audio, then with 20 minutes of your time and about $30 for the kit, you can relax knowing that your system is gettimg all the juice it possibly can.
Wow bud that explanation is so wrong.
First off the fuse should be closer to the alternator.
Second because the alternator is the supply the wire isn't protected from fuse to the alternator ( so shorter run from the alternator to the fuse )
Lastly I put it this way if you alternator wire has its own fuse factory then you would do that for your big 3 ether way your put loom/tesa tape/heat shrink on all wires on the outside of cab. You always leave the factory on for many reasons, short explanation the added wires just give you a easier and faster flow of maximum amps/ voltage. ( the big 3 is the alternator + to battery + motor ground to chassis and battery ground to chassis...... the 4th is the alternator ground to the battery. If you don't know what that is then you shouldn't be doing this! ( it's the mounting bracket bolt for the alternator).
lol
If you're going to correct someone, make sure that you are correct. You can't fight facts with opinion and expect to be right.
@mmadd7 that's a nice opinion lol. Problem is I am right. And fact for you that was back by mechanic. If you want to follow what he did go for bud more power to you. I posted this so people could know the facts.