I use little rubber bands, taken from cutting old mtb inner tubes. Some of my quickdraws have them already hanging on the low carabiner. First you clip, then you wrap the rubber band on the rope and clip the rubber again. Easy, very cheap, ultralight, you can even do it with one hand.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing you have the rubber already in the biner, you clip the rope once, then wrap the rubber around it and clip the rubber again. The rope is clipped as usual.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I use a hair elastic girth hitched on the rope, then clipped into the biner, i like them better than elastic bands because they don't stretch as much. It can support the full weight of my rope no problem.
clothes pegs came to mind for holding up the rope. small loop of string to connect them to the quickdraws - clip rope, snap the clothes pegs to the rope and it's done.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing not even heavy-duty needed - mine I have laying around are pretty "el cheapo" but they even have rubber inserts where the rope would be (no chance of sharp corners) and very strong spring. the idea came to mind because prior to a rope-access-cert I did last year, I tied on rope-protection directly to the rope with a stringed prusik hitch - at the 5-day course they had rope-pro with stringed "clips" (almost like the clothe-thingies) that were way easier to attach, just snapping on. on sunday I went with - the "clove-hitch to alpine-draw"-variant to keep the rope-weight down, - clove-hitches to 2 lockers on the belay-loop for reduncancy (for if SP fails) - rope from the ground, not in backpack (since I forgot that..) it was a mess, but still fun ;) lots of room for improvement. didn't use a microTrax/Spoc for cache loop, no nothing. was most worried about FF2 on my cloves and now thinking about just getting a few cheap rope-access absorbers (www.shopattack.ch/produkt/asapsorber-40-cm/) for this reason alone, to replace regular alpine-draws for cloving' in. will try the clothes-pin-technique first though ;) greetings off of the facebook-groups I'll report once I have tested this.
The slip knot (halter hitch) you show is good, but it tends to come undone on me. For this reason, I use the Siberian hitch nowadays. Trouble is, either one is tough to do one-handed. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Eric! I just checked Matt Hunter and it is exactly what I show in my video. I checked this image: bit.ly/2HFbh83 and the Halter is NOT like the slip knot I show. So there is actually 3 different knots: slip knot, halter and Siberian... I will experiment with them in real situations when the snow melts! Do you now understand the same as me?
@@denislejeune9218 Elastic band is a great idea. And safer because as soon as you put your weight on an elastic band, it will break. It is one extra layer of security. You don't want to end up jugging on a single pro and/or on a weak cord!!! As long as you remember to set your fixed rope properly on the rappel phase of your solo, you are fine.
intéressant !! j'aime bien la dernière méthode puisque on utilisera ce système aussi en cas de tirage( voie sinueuse) ou de frottements importants qui pourrais mettre en péril la corde elle même(et la vie du grimpeur), bref merci pour le partage tes vidéos sont captivantes, surtout outre Atlantique et plus particulièrement en France ou peu de personne pratiquent cette technique qui est qualifiée de dangereuse, alors que pour moi moins dangereux que faire de la via ferrata ! En revanche je ne connait pas encore le revo mais apparemment il a l'air plus facile d'utilisation et plus sure qu'un grigri ou autre système d'assurage, à méditer.....
Merci beaucoup pour les commentaires! À propos de ta remarque sur le Revo, je détecte le classique "l'herbe est toujours plus verte ailleurs". Tu utilises quoi comme appareil pour le Lead Rope Solo actuellement? (la plupart du temps, l'herbe N'EST PAS plus verte ailleurs, on manque la perspective de voir ce qu'on a sous les yeux!)
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing j'utilise le grigri en général j'ai fait quelques première comme ça et j'ai aussi testé une fois un système antichute qu'on utilise en travaux sur corde du genre l'asap de petzl ou le esay move de CT...après il est claire que je ne fais pas des voies de mutants !! lol Mais finally je préfère le grigri comme ça je peux vite redescendre en rappel après chaque longueur installer des fractios pour ensuite continuer l'ascension !
je prends donc un grigri, un bloqueur genre basic et un reverso(petzl) juste au cas ou j'en perds un, puis en cas de rappel en mode escape si possible en corde double....puis tout le tralalla coinceurs, dégaine, sangles, cordelette..... pitons goujons perfo etc selon le type de roche et les possibilités, ici on pratique pas mal le trad sur du grès, mais aussi calcaire principalement... après on à des roches du type volcanique et granite comme en corse et mont blanc ,gneiss en SAvoie et mercantour etc bon là je rentre pas dans les détails géologiques.... bref faut s'adapter aux conditions !!
et oui tu as raison on pense toujours que l'herbe est plus verte dans le près d'a côté mais le principale c'est de se faire plaisir... et de maitriser ses propre techniques surtout dans une pratique non conventionnelle comme en Europe !
Good question! I always feared the munter would slip and then I would fall further than I want afterwards. I need to try the munter: you are not the first to mention it! Thanks for the comment!!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing i would leave just a little slack under the munter hitch and that would be the extra slip, leaving a bit of dinamic catch in a fall
during a fall rope will slip through one, maybe two munters, so you will not be using all the rope's length. Still far better than the clove hitch of course.
@@shoqed I have to test the munter. I fear 3 things: 1- improper loading of the carabiner in case of a fall; 2- unclipping of the rope (but I guess if it unclips once, you are still tied in right?); 3- the munter lets rope feed between the munter and the bottom belay anchor and exposes you to a longer fall
A butterfly would be a superior knot here for a couple of reasons BUT I personally like to keep things quick and simple. Also the clove hitch here is only to support the rope weight, if it breaks the carabiner OR if it damages the rope, I do not think there is any chance it will cut the rope completely. I chose the clove hitch here. But if you chose the butterfly knot, I will look at your system as a superior / more by the book system. Makes sense?
Yes, I know, if one knot is 70% and the other 60% is no big difference. I would avoid any knot at the middle of the rope, as it would reduce my confidence to continue the climb. Now I am thinking of just a girth hitch or prusik to hold the rope up. Truth is I rarely do anything to keep the rope up, I like to carry the rope weight up, is no problem, sometimes I have a rock on the anchor and I lift also the rock with me, to confirm there is no more slack. Thanks for the good video
Why not to use ordinary clothespin to take the rope's weight? You should attach it to the rope higher that biner and it will not let the rope to go down threw biner. It is much quicker than knots and can be done with one hand. I tried it in a climbing gim and it looks to work fine. I used one pin for each 4-5 meters of rope.
Sergey Petrov bad for the environment! :-) ok so you could add a clothespin retainer cord. It is a great idea!!! I guess this can be perfect for a send close to your limit!! Someone actually uses this regularly and can provide feedback?
I use little rubber bands, taken from cutting old mtb inner tubes. Some of my quickdraws have them already hanging on the low carabiner. First you clip, then you wrap the rubber band on the rope and clip the rubber again. Easy, very cheap, ultralight, you can even do it with one hand.
clip-wrap-clip right??? I will have to try that it sound like a good idea... Thanks for the comment!!!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing you have the rubber already in the biner, you clip the rope once, then wrap the rubber around it and clip the rubber again. The rope is clipped as usual.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I use a hair elastic girth hitched on the rope, then clipped into the biner, i like them better than elastic bands because they don't stretch as much. It can support the full weight of my rope no problem.
clothes pegs came to mind for holding up the rope.
small loop of string to connect them to the quickdraws - clip rope, snap the clothes pegs to the rope and it's done.
The small string to the quickdraw is key! Good thinking :-) Heavy duty ones should work perfect. I need to try that! Thanks for the comment!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing
not even heavy-duty needed - mine I have laying around are pretty "el cheapo" but they even have rubber inserts where the rope would be (no chance of sharp corners) and very strong spring.
the idea came to mind because prior to a rope-access-cert I did last year, I tied on rope-protection directly to the rope with a stringed prusik hitch - at the 5-day course they had rope-pro with stringed "clips" (almost like the clothe-thingies) that were way easier to attach, just snapping on.
on sunday I went with
- the "clove-hitch to alpine-draw"-variant to keep the rope-weight down,
- clove-hitches to 2 lockers on the belay-loop for reduncancy (for if SP fails)
- rope from the ground, not in backpack (since I forgot that..)
it was a mess, but still fun ;) lots of room for improvement.
didn't use a microTrax/Spoc for cache loop, no nothing.
was most worried about FF2 on my cloves and now thinking about just getting a few cheap rope-access absorbers (www.shopattack.ch/produkt/asapsorber-40-cm/) for this reason alone, to replace regular alpine-draws for cloving' in.
will try the clothes-pin-technique first though ;)
greetings off of the facebook-groups
I'll report once I have tested this.
@@jodelboy Alright! yes please report back it is interesting!
thank you for the video
You are welcome!!
The slip knot (halter hitch) you show is good, but it tends to come undone on me. For this reason, I use the Siberian hitch nowadays. Trouble is, either one is tough to do one-handed. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Eric! I just checked Matt Hunter and it is exactly what I show in my video. I checked this image: bit.ly/2HFbh83 and the Halter is NOT like the slip knot I show. So there is actually 3 different knots: slip knot, halter and Siberian... I will experiment with them in real situations when the snow melts! Do you now understand the same as me?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I personally use the Mongolian overhand across the steppes and feet deep in a freezing river knot.
More seriously I saw a video of someone using elastic bands instead of cord.
@@denislejeune9218 Elastic band is a great idea. And safer because as soon as you put your weight on an elastic band, it will break. It is one extra layer of security. You don't want to end up jugging on a single pro and/or on a weak cord!!! As long as you remember to set your fixed rope properly on the rappel phase of your solo, you are fine.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Agreed.
intéressant !! j'aime bien la dernière méthode puisque on utilisera ce système aussi en cas de tirage( voie sinueuse) ou de frottements importants qui pourrais mettre en péril la corde elle même(et la vie du grimpeur), bref merci pour le partage tes vidéos sont captivantes, surtout outre Atlantique et plus particulièrement en France ou peu de personne pratiquent cette technique qui est qualifiée de dangereuse, alors que pour moi moins dangereux que faire de la via ferrata !
En revanche je ne connait pas encore le revo mais apparemment il a l'air plus facile d'utilisation et plus sure qu'un grigri ou autre système d'assurage, à méditer.....
Merci beaucoup pour les commentaires! À propos de ta remarque sur le Revo, je détecte le classique "l'herbe est toujours plus verte ailleurs". Tu utilises quoi comme appareil pour le Lead Rope Solo actuellement? (la plupart du temps, l'herbe N'EST PAS plus verte ailleurs, on manque la perspective de voir ce qu'on a sous les yeux!)
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing j'utilise le grigri en général j'ai fait quelques première comme ça et j'ai aussi testé une fois un système antichute qu'on utilise en travaux sur corde du genre l'asap de petzl ou le esay move de CT...après il est claire que je ne fais pas des voies de mutants !! lol Mais finally je préfère le grigri comme ça je peux vite redescendre en rappel après chaque longueur installer des fractios pour ensuite continuer l'ascension !
@@flopinou160 le grigri et le Revo sont tous 2 dans le top 5...
je prends donc un grigri, un bloqueur genre basic et un reverso(petzl) juste au cas ou j'en perds un, puis en cas de rappel en mode escape si possible en corde double....puis tout le tralalla coinceurs, dégaine, sangles, cordelette..... pitons goujons perfo etc selon le type de roche et les possibilités, ici on pratique pas mal le trad sur du grès, mais aussi calcaire principalement... après on à des roches du type volcanique et granite comme en corse et mont blanc ,gneiss en SAvoie et mercantour etc bon là je rentre pas dans les détails géologiques.... bref faut s'adapter aux conditions !!
et oui tu as raison on pense toujours que l'herbe est plus verte dans le près d'a côté mais le principale c'est de se faire plaisir... et de maitriser ses propre techniques surtout dans une pratique non conventionnelle comme en Europe !
Why not a monter hitch? easy to tie with one hand and avoid FF2 compared with the clove hitch
Good question! I always feared the munter would slip and then I would fall further than I want afterwards. I need to try the munter: you are not the first to mention it! Thanks for the comment!!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing i would leave just a little slack under the munter hitch and that would be the extra slip, leaving a bit of dinamic catch in a fall
@@alessandroiotti8620 I will try it next time I go... Maybe March 30!
during a fall rope will slip through one, maybe two munters, so you will not be using all the rope's length. Still far better than the clove hitch of course.
@@shoqed I have to test the munter. I fear 3 things: 1- improper loading of the carabiner in case of a fall; 2- unclipping of the rope (but I guess if it unclips once, you are still tied in right?); 3- the munter lets rope feed between the munter and the bottom belay anchor and exposes you to a longer fall
I thought clove hitch can not be loaded in 3 direction, like holding middle climber, and butterfly knot shall be used there.
A butterfly would be a superior knot here for a couple of reasons BUT I personally like to keep things quick and simple. Also the clove hitch here is only to support the rope weight, if it breaks the carabiner OR if it damages the rope, I do not think there is any chance it will cut the rope completely. I chose the clove hitch here. But if you chose the butterfly knot, I will look at your system as a superior / more by the book system. Makes sense?
Yes, I know, if one knot is 70% and the other 60% is no big difference. I would avoid any knot at the middle of the rope, as it would reduce my confidence to continue the climb. Now I am thinking of just a girth hitch or prusik to hold the rope up. Truth is I rarely do anything to keep the rope up, I like to carry the rope weight up, is no problem, sometimes I have a rock on the anchor and I lift also the rock with me, to confirm there is no more slack. Thanks for the good video
Why not to use ordinary clothespin to take the rope's weight? You should attach it to the rope higher that biner and it will not let the rope to go down threw biner. It is much quicker than knots and can be done with one hand. I tried it in a climbing gim and it looks to work fine. I used one pin for each 4-5 meters of rope.
Sergey Petrov bad for the environment! :-) ok so you could add a clothespin retainer cord. It is a great idea!!! I guess this can be perfect for a send close to your limit!! Someone actually uses this regularly and can provide feedback?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing They normally stay on the rope. You gather them while repelling together with pulleys.