Very good explanation, slightly more complicated by the equipment you were using, rather than a clamp with a built in screen. But not a problem if you listen carefully and are serious about doing the job properly. The alternator diodes were interesting, could you identify them by this method?
Thanks for watching! Yes, when I've suspected an alternator causing a drain, I take the clamp and go around the alternator output wire while minding the polarity of the current. This can quickly show if the alternator is consuming energy in its resting state.
Great video , very descriptive and I learned more about what/ what not to do! I don’t have much experience diagnosing problems that have a parasitic drain but I have experience with electrical/hydraulic diagnostics.
According to my amp clamp manual when you zero out the clamp reading you need to hold your clamp in the same orientation as when performing the reading, otherwise the reading will not be accurate.
Parasitic draw specifications can be difficult to find in a service manual at times. It is something you will not find in the owner's manual. Most vehicles pre-2000 should be less than 25-30 mA depending on their configuration of electronics. A newer vehicle with many electronics can see a draw spec of up to 80 mA.
I'm not entirely sure I'm correct but I'll give it a shot: The difference comes from the batteries' capacity. The extra capacity of the battery weakens the necessity to pull the extra 40mA from the negative, rather from the acid cells in the batt. the mA draw is too weak to pull it from GND cable in other words.
This is a good speculation. I would first ask about setup and whether you are truly capturing all ground paths to the battery. The next question would be the possibility of interference. Amp clamps are unfortunately very vulnerable to influence. When a difficult drain is being assessed, it may be better to put a meter in series and eliminate some of these variables.
Very good explanation, slightly more complicated by the equipment you were using, rather than a clamp with a built in screen. But not a problem if you listen carefully and are serious about doing the job properly. The alternator diodes were interesting, could you identify them by this method?
Thanks for watching! Yes, when I've suspected an alternator causing a drain, I take the clamp and go around the alternator output wire while minding the polarity of the current. This can quickly show if the alternator is consuming energy in its resting state.
Adams 's Analysis Tutorial great 👍 👌
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Thanks for watching!
Where do you find out what the normal parasitic amp draw value is for a given vehicle while the vehicle has entered sleep status?
50ma is specs on every vehicle 0.050A
Thorough explanation. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video , very descriptive and I learned more about what/ what not to do! I don’t have much experience diagnosing problems that have a parasitic drain but I have experience with electrical/hydraulic diagnostics.
Glad it was helpful!
@@AdamsAnalysis 7days. Rxc v
Very nice tutorial, thank you.
According to my amp clamp manual when you zero out the clamp reading you need to hold your clamp in the same orientation as when performing the reading, otherwise the reading will not be accurate.
Where do you find the amp draw in the manual spec, when car is at sleep? I can not find it?
Parasitic draw specifications can be difficult to find in a service manual at times. It is something you will not find in the owner's manual. Most vehicles pre-2000 should be less than 25-30 mA depending on their configuration of electronics. A newer vehicle with many electronics can see a draw spec of up to 80 mA.
Great explanation ....subscribed , stay safe Regards Andy
Thanks, you too!
Nice and information video.
why would my dc ampclamp show a 11 milivolt draw on the negative cable and a 54 miliamp draw on the positive cable?
I'm not entirely sure I'm correct but I'll give it a shot:
The difference comes from the batteries' capacity. The extra capacity of the battery weakens the necessity to pull the extra 40mA from the negative, rather from the acid cells in the batt.
the mA draw is too weak to pull it from GND cable in other words.
This is a good speculation. I would first ask about setup and whether you are truly capturing all ground paths to the battery. The next question would be the possibility of interference. Amp clamps are unfortunately very vulnerable to influence. When a difficult drain is being assessed, it may be better to put a meter in series and eliminate some of these variables.
Amp clap drain test setting
😴💤