I've got a Stanley 6 and a Lie Nielson 6 and can't tell much difference in the two. One is pretty and one looks old and pretty with the patina on it. I use both on a regular basis and find that both make good smoothers and joiners. Thanks for sharing your video and helping us keep traditional woodworking alive.
That looks great! I like that you focused on restoring for good useability but not removing history and patina. I’ve been using my no 6 as if it is a 5 1/2 jack for much lower cost for almost a year now. While hefty, one of these supposedly odd sized planes produces the best finish ready surface of any plane I have. It is also the best for reversing grain or knots for me even without the mouth being very tight. Enjoy and thanks for the great video. Hope you’re out making some saw dust.
Thanks for the comment. I agree. Sharpness and a good waxed bottom goes a long way to making a plane usable and enjoyable. Heft is important too. I have a 2 through 8 collection and use them all now and again, and most of them aren't very pretty but work great. Thanks again for watching.
I have a Stanley No. 6, type 13, and it has become a great shooting board plane, as well as a small jointer. It will serve a number of purposes. Nice video, by the way.
Looks good. I've only become really interested in hand planes in the last year and I'm slowly building a collection (my no6 is due to be delivered today). Like classic cars, I think that these things should be used for their intended purpose, so I'm not really a fan of over-restored tools that look better than new. I just remove any active rust, clean everything up and fettle the frog, chip breaker and sharpen the blade and I'm good to go. With any luck my no6 will come up like yours👍
Thank you for the comment. I agree, I try not to over detail the planes I use, I also agree that tune and sharpness are the real keys to great planing. Thanks for watching.
I was given a type 10 no. 6. It was in awful condition so I did a complete restoration, lapping, re japanning, tuned the frog and sharpened the blade. It works amazing and it's the biggest plane in my collection. I use it for jointing as most of my projects are smaller. It was interesting to hear you say that a plane will joint a board 3x its own length, had never heard this but it makes sense. That plane looks great and works well, nice job! The blade and cap iron almost look blued.
Thanks for the comment. I think I said something like "some have said" a plane will joint level a board twice its length. That I believe is maybe a rule of thumb but I haven't given a lot of thought to the geometry of that statement. Certainly of you are careful you can joint flat a longer board by checking off and on as you work. I'm glad you're enjoying your new plane. Thanks again for watching.
I found a very old Bailey #6 at the dump. All rusted ans dirty. I did a complete restoration on it. Beautiful tool. I gave it to a friend that does pist and beam buildings. It would have just sat on my shelf. Better to be in the hands of a craftsman.
@@makingthings1463 I'm now working on a Bailey #26 probably early 1900's. Wooden block plane. I use a product called Resror a finish to clean up the wood. Keeps the patina. Thank you again for sharing this fun video.
I tell people who have old tools with a dark brown patina, to leave it be. Don't take it off. And they look at me like I'm daft. I tell them to take off any red rust immediately, but brown rust is there to protect the steel from the harmful red rust. It's something I learned from working on old black powder muzzleloaders.
I know nothing about chemistry but the black coating I'm calling patina seems to never get worse. It does not seem to corrode the steel. I wax it now and then and it looks great. Maybe a chemist can add more info. Thanks for the comment.
@@makingthings1463 The black coating is called Japanning. It was developed centuries ago in (wait for it...) Japan. IIRC, it's made of asphaltum, varnish, and a few other ingredients. It's possible to get the stuff, and make it look like new, but I hear it's a messy, smelly process. Again IIRC, the japanning needs to be brushed on hot and then baked in an oven. I was talking about the dark brown rust vs the red rust. Red rust and brown rust are related. If something has been exposed to water or even changes in humidity, red rust can form and it can be very destructive, causing pitting. But if you remove the red rust as soon as you see it, and keep it in a dry place, what little red surface rust is left will turn into brown rust. The brown rust acts as a barrier to red rust forming. Just keep it dry and wipe with an oily rag and you'll never have to worry about further rust. You can also protect the plane by applying a paste wax to the bare metal surfaces or using a light coat of spray varnish. All those need to be reapplied periodically.
Sorry, I wasn't clear, I meant the surface of the steel turns black with age. Many people will polish it off, which I have done many times. But these few planes have a nice look left as is. Thanks again for your comment.
Thanks for the comment. These planes of mine are definitely more a collection than they are a need. I use them because I have them Maybe a number 8 if you have room.
Great video. I like the simple approach to the restoration. I'm new to hand planes and currently have old/vintage Stanley #4, #5 and #7. I'd assume the #5 is what should be put into the "fore" or scrub plane category, correct? Then use the #7 to level and the #4 to smooth?
Thank you for the comment. Probably best use of those three. The No. 5 is typically called a Jack plane. I think from the idea of a jack of all trades. The 7 is a plenty good jointer and the 4 is the quintessential smoothing plane. Thanks again and thanks for watching.
Thank you for the comment. It's a bit of a brute. I mostly have it because it filled out my collection. Can work as a short jointer or a scrub plane for brutal wood removal. Thanks for watching.
I've got a Stanley 6 and a Lie Nielson 6 and can't tell much difference in the two. One is pretty and one looks old and pretty with the patina on it. I use both on a regular basis and find that both make good smoothers and joiners. Thanks for sharing your video and helping us keep traditional woodworking alive.
Thanks for the comment. I agree, pretty much down to sharpness being number one in importance and next probably weight. Thanks for watching.
That looks great! I like that you focused on restoring for good useability but not removing history and patina. I’ve been using my no 6 as if it is a 5 1/2 jack for much lower cost for almost a year now. While hefty, one of these supposedly odd sized planes produces the best finish ready surface of any plane I have. It is also the best for reversing grain or knots for me even without the mouth being very tight. Enjoy and thanks for the great video. Hope you’re out making some saw dust.
Thanks for the comment. I agree. Sharpness and a good waxed bottom goes a long way to making a plane usable and enjoyable. Heft is important too. I have a 2 through 8 collection and use them all now and again, and most of them aren't very pretty but work great. Thanks again for watching.
I have a Stanley No. 6, type 13, and it has become a great shooting board plane, as well as a small jointer. It will serve a number of purposes. Nice video, by the way.
I agree, thank you for the comment and thanks for watching
Nice clean up , love hand planes, cheers.
Thank you for the comment. I definitely left a lot of "patina" but It works great!!
Thanks again. I'm working on a No. 8C next.
@@makingthings1463 pls add a video for it. ☺️
Looks good. I've only become really interested in hand planes in the last year and I'm slowly building a collection (my no6 is due to be delivered today). Like classic cars, I think that these things should be used for their intended purpose, so I'm not really a fan of over-restored tools that look better than new. I just remove any active rust, clean everything up and fettle the frog, chip breaker and sharpen the blade and I'm good to go. With any luck my no6 will come up like yours👍
Thank you for the comment. I agree, I try not to over detail the planes I use, I also agree that tune and sharpness are the real keys to great planing. Thanks for watching.
I was given a type 10 no. 6. It was in awful condition so I did a complete restoration, lapping, re japanning, tuned the frog and sharpened the blade. It works amazing and it's the biggest plane in my collection. I use it for jointing as most of my projects are smaller. It was interesting to hear you say that a plane will joint a board 3x its own length, had never heard this but it makes sense. That plane looks great and works well, nice job! The blade and cap iron almost look blued.
Thanks for the comment. I think I said something like "some have said" a plane will joint level a board twice its length. That I believe is maybe a rule of thumb but I haven't given a lot of thought to the geometry of that statement. Certainly of you are careful you can joint flat a longer board by checking off and on as you work. I'm glad you're enjoying your new plane. Thanks again for watching.
I found a very old Bailey #6 at the dump. All rusted ans dirty. I did a complete restoration on it. Beautiful tool. I gave it to a friend that does pist and beam buildings. It would have just sat on my shelf. Better to be in the hands of a craftsman.
Sounds great. They are fun to bring back to life. Thank you for the comment.
@@makingthings1463 I'm now working on a Bailey #26 probably early 1900's. Wooden block plane. I use a product called Resror a finish to clean up the wood. Keeps the patina. Thank you again for sharing this fun video.
Great video! Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching
I tell people who have old tools with a dark brown patina, to leave it be. Don't take it off. And they look at me like I'm daft. I tell them to take off any red rust immediately, but brown rust is there to protect the steel from the harmful red rust. It's something I learned from working on old black powder muzzleloaders.
I know nothing about chemistry but the black coating I'm calling patina seems to never get worse. It does not seem to corrode the steel. I wax it now and then and it looks great. Maybe a chemist can add more info.
Thanks for the comment.
@@makingthings1463 The black coating is called Japanning. It was developed centuries ago in (wait for it...) Japan. IIRC, it's made of asphaltum, varnish, and a few other ingredients. It's possible to get the stuff, and make it look like new, but I hear it's a messy, smelly process. Again IIRC, the japanning needs to be brushed on hot and then baked in an oven. I was talking about the dark brown rust vs the red rust. Red rust and brown rust are related. If something has been exposed to water or even changes in humidity, red rust can form and it can be very destructive, causing pitting. But if you remove the red rust as soon as you see it, and keep it in a dry place, what little red surface rust is left will turn into brown rust. The brown rust acts as a barrier to red rust forming. Just keep it dry and wipe with an oily rag and you'll never have to worry about further rust. You can also protect the plane by applying a paste wax to the bare metal surfaces or using a light coat of spray varnish. All those need to be reapplied periodically.
Sorry, I wasn't clear, I meant the surface of the steel turns black with age. Many people will polish it off, which I have done many times. But these few planes have a nice look left as is. Thanks again for your comment.
I've got a Record no 6, I like it. I'm also going to get a 7 someday, I wonder if it'll be worth keeping both, or if the 6 will be redundant.
Thanks for the comment. These planes of mine are definitely more a collection than they are a need. I use them because I have them Maybe a number 8 if you have room.
Great video. I like the simple approach to the restoration. I'm new to hand planes and currently have old/vintage Stanley #4, #5 and #7. I'd assume the #5 is what should be put into the "fore" or scrub plane category, correct? Then use the #7 to level and the #4 to smooth?
Thank you for the comment. Probably best use of those three. The No. 5 is typically called a Jack plane. I think from the idea of a jack of all trades. The 7 is a plenty good jointer and the 4 is the quintessential smoothing plane. Thanks again and thanks for watching.
Very nice plane.. i have vintage stanley no 4 and record no 5.. is no.6 ok for working all day long ?
Thank you for the comment. It's a bit of a brute. I mostly have it because it filled out my collection. Can work as a short jointer or a scrub plane for brutal wood removal. Thanks for watching.