Thank you for being thorough in your work ethic and explaining very well the work at hand to change the Tensioner pulley. I appreciate your efforts to work with each customer before doing the replacements. You do GREAT work!
I already got my parts and just wanted to watch a video of the process before I headed out and do it. Your video told me everything I need to know, thanks!
I JUST did the replacement of this part... and while I was doing a tensioner pulley replacement... and since I had it apart anyway... I thought I'd just spend a little bit more and go ahead with upgrading another part... I made sure to research each part thoroughly, and bought the BEST part my money could buy for a replacement upgraded part(s). 🤷♂️ So, I started with... -Tensioner pulley And then... so it went about like this afterward... -Idler pulley -Serpentine belt -Clutch for cooling fan -New Cold Case Brand Solid Aluminum Radiator - HPS Silicone Coolant & Heater Hoses 5 pc. Kit - Custom steel mount for battery tray over/beside the power steering pump for a dual battery system. - New AGM Blue Top High Dollar Group 27 battery for a dual battery set-up - Siberian Brand Yellow urethane bushings (*quite literally any & everywhere there was a bushing located on my truck, I replaced it. Front to back!) - spindle gussets -3 piece Aluminum skid plate -front steel skidplate - all fluids changed.. Everywhere. - ARB air lockers 7.5" front / rear 8.4 " -4.56 gears - Axles front and rear -Inland Empire Yellow 1.181" urethane center support bearing -Rugged Ridge bug deflector -BIG Brake Kit w/ slotted cryogenic frozen rotors -Braided Stainless Steel extended brake lines - Porterfield Carbon Kevlar Pads - Genuine Toyota Front wheel bearings & seals -Genuine Toyota LBJ's -Icon 2.5" Ext. Travel Coilovers with 14" 700lb Eibach Coil Springs -JBA UCA's -Double shear UCA gussets on coilover bucket -coil spring bucket gussets (top) - Chromoly Heim joint steering tie rods - front wheel speed sensors - 12 hole 250 p.s.i.injectors - Walbro 255lph fuel pump - rear brembo drums -Porterfield Rear Brake Shoes - OEM REAR wheel cylinders - New drum brake hardware - star adjuster wheel rear brakes & I'm tired of writing... there's honestly more than that... - Lower control arm gussets -
Right on! Sounds like you’re all caught up on a lot of deferred maintenance. Keep all the records of maintenance…super valuable for resale. I have an 06’ Sequoia
One of my top 5 channels and I subscribe to many automotive channels so that says a lot! I love watching your repairs, your assessment of what is wrong and it’s more than obvious you are honest and respected. Thank you for sharing your talent with us!
I had a 95 Tacoma with a tensioner which squealed only when it was very cold outside. Out of curiosity, I popped off one of the dust seals off of the bearing, and found the bearing to be totally dry of grease but otherwise the bearing looked OK. I flushed the bearing with carb cleaner, repacked it with grease and reinstalled it. I drove the truck another 30K miles before I sold it, and the tensioner was fine. Obviously I would not recommend this to a repair shop since you don't know if it will last, but as a backyard mechanic, it worked for me.
Did the same with my tundra. Gates had a garbage made in China bearing. I removed both covers from the bearing with a tiny screwdriver. Used brake cleaner and then used some bearing grease and voila.
The beautiful thing about video editing is you can record the loud squeeking engine and see the oil leak and edit a minute or two of the video and slight sound into the clean easy to hear recording of you in front of the truck. Just amazing how easy that is. Just like someone trying to take out a tiny 2mm dash machine screw does not need a 4 foot breaker bar with 3/4 inch drive .. you know, different tools.
Thank God, I found this video. The dealer quotes me $900 for replacing the tensioner pulley assemble with an idle pulley. After watching this video, I order the tensioner pulley from online with $35, then replaced it in 20 mins. Then my 4Runner started perfectly without noise! Thank you for the true fix!
Expect to replace that aftermarket junk in less than 20K miles. Just press in a NACHI bearing (around $8 shipped) and call it done for easy 150K miles. NACHI is Toyota's OEM bearing supplier. NACHI also makes robots for toyota factories. I think the bearing is 6203 or 6301.
So I went to get a replacement a few days ago after watching this and they gave me a smaller diameter pulley. I didnt put it on the truck but I did use some alcohol to clean the riding surface of the old pulley and that got rid of my squeal completely.
Thanks for the information! I think if I were the customer I would have spent the extra money on the OEM part...I just don't trust aftermarket parts these days.
Secure the transmission inlet flexible hose to the radiator to the Power steering rack (it comes like that). Without that, I've seen a fan blade cutting open the hose in a Land Cruiser with 2UZFE
You can quiet a squeaking belt by turning off engine. Sprinkle Bon Ami or Barkeep cleanser( powder). Start engine, expect a puff of powder, but if noise goes away, it was because belt was contaminated with some kind fluid. Never use a oil base spray! Now, if noise does not quit after a while, then yes, bad bearing. Yes I am a retired auto tech.
My Tundra mechanic just pressed out the old common size chattering bearing from the pulley and pressed in an identical part number new one 5 or 6 years ago.
Jokes! this man likes jokes! Hahaha. Aside from that I saw from the oil seal videos that belt was very scarred on the non tooth side. Likely that old pulley locked up a few times in its 14/250 lifespan. I can tell you love and care about this customer very much. Especially when you allow aftermarket. But also it makes sense too. Maybe the truck lasts another 100k. Maybe not even close. The age dictates you don't need a Japanese or German bearing pulley. Especially since it is so easy to change. Common sense over pride. Thanks friend.
I replaced my drive belt last month also the tensioner assembly as I didn't have socket to take the bolt off the belt tensioner pulley also the hydraulic assembly was bad.
Do you know what the official torque spec is? I've searched through the factory service manual and I have found no such specification, just specifications for the idler pulley.
Excellent video - thanks so much. Did you post the pulley part number and I missed it? I see entire tensioner part number listed on Toyota website but not the pulley. Mine is 4 inch diameter (100mm) and have heard some are 3.5 inch?
Pardon me 'Toyota Maintenance' Guy (TMG) but I'm going to ask a provocative question of your viewers. Here goes... Subscribers, how many of you have a friend whom is able to mimic perfectly our Toyota Maintenance Guy's patter? My friend JJ cracks me up when he mimics TMG. JJ has him dialed in 'Per-Fect-Lee'... Who else has a friend like JJ? Merry Christmas Toyota Maintenance Guy. TMG to me if I may be allowed. Thanks TMG your videos are the greatest.
Lucky that you have a bolt, I have a nut, which spins together with a bolt and have no f clue how to hold the bolt because it's all threaded! Yaris first gen is an obsolete ass
No fuck no. I heard that dreaded squeel the other morning in my 2013 corolla 127k miles now you post this. Fuck i give it 2 weeks before the belt snaps now. Its just fate. I can feel it calling in the air tonight. Oh lord.
Damn, you sound like me minus the F-Bombs. 2003 chirp'ping Tundra, needs diagnosis first but I;m guessing now it's the tensioner and probably due, no doubt, for a new SB.
@@claztube hey cherrish that truck buddy my 03 ac cab saved my life took it off a 60ft cliff. Cop told me "kid your lucky. I see a few of these a year right here. And they are lucky to die in the hospital". the truck nose dove into the ground so hard it bounced and landed on the drivers door. I crawled out without a scratch. Still get the air bag recall notices once a year for that truck lol.
The world needs more honest mechanics like you.. I learn so much about my Toyota watching your videos.
Thank you for being thorough in your work ethic and explaining very well the work at hand to change the Tensioner pulley. I appreciate your efforts to work with each customer before doing the replacements. You do GREAT work!
I already got my parts and just wanted to watch a video of the process before I headed out and do it. Your video told me everything I need to know, thanks!
If I were to try this that tensioner bolt would be so damn tight I’d need a 5 foot breaker bar! Great work Peter.
I JUST did the replacement of this part... and while I was doing a tensioner pulley replacement... and since I had it apart anyway... I thought I'd just spend a little bit more and go ahead with upgrading another part... I made sure to research each part thoroughly, and bought the BEST part my money could buy for a replacement upgraded part(s).
🤷♂️ So, I started with...
-Tensioner pulley
And then... so it went about like this afterward...
-Idler pulley
-Serpentine belt
-Clutch for cooling fan
-New Cold Case Brand Solid Aluminum Radiator
- HPS Silicone Coolant & Heater Hoses 5 pc. Kit
- Custom steel mount for battery tray over/beside the power steering pump for a dual battery system.
- New AGM Blue Top High Dollar Group 27 battery for a dual battery set-up
- Siberian Brand Yellow urethane bushings (*quite literally any & everywhere there was a bushing located on my truck, I replaced it. Front to back!)
- spindle gussets
-3 piece Aluminum skid plate
-front steel skidplate
- all fluids changed.. Everywhere.
- ARB air lockers 7.5" front / rear 8.4 "
-4.56 gears
- Axles front and rear
-Inland Empire Yellow 1.181" urethane center support bearing
-Rugged Ridge bug deflector
-BIG Brake Kit w/ slotted cryogenic frozen rotors
-Braided Stainless Steel extended brake lines
- Porterfield Carbon Kevlar Pads
- Genuine Toyota Front wheel bearings & seals
-Genuine Toyota LBJ's
-Icon 2.5" Ext. Travel Coilovers with 14" 700lb Eibach Coil Springs
-JBA UCA's
-Double shear UCA gussets on coilover bucket
-coil spring bucket gussets (top)
- Chromoly Heim joint steering tie rods
- front wheel speed sensors
- 12 hole 250 p.s.i.injectors
- Walbro 255lph fuel pump
- rear brembo drums
-Porterfield Rear Brake Shoes
- OEM REAR wheel cylinders
- New drum brake hardware
- star adjuster wheel rear brakes
& I'm tired of writing... there's honestly more than that...
- Lower control arm gussets
-
Right on! Sounds like you’re all caught up on a lot of deferred maintenance. Keep all the records of maintenance…super valuable for resale. I have an 06’ Sequoia
@@lucasstuart-chilcote7069 not gonna sell... EVER.
Lol you don't even have a car 😅😅
Thank you for taking time to explain how it's done. Make it look so easy.
One of my top 5 channels and I subscribe to many automotive channels so that says a lot! I love watching your repairs, your assessment of what is wrong and it’s more than obvious you are honest and respected. Thank you for sharing your talent with us!
I had a 95 Tacoma with a tensioner which squealed only when it was very cold outside. Out of curiosity, I popped off one of the dust seals off of the bearing, and found the bearing to be totally dry of grease but otherwise the bearing looked OK. I flushed the bearing with carb cleaner, repacked it with grease and reinstalled it. I drove the truck another 30K miles before I sold it, and the tensioner was fine. Obviously I would not recommend this to a repair shop since you don't know if it will last, but as a backyard mechanic, it worked for me.
Did the same with my tundra. Gates had a garbage made in China bearing. I removed both covers from the bearing with a tiny screwdriver. Used brake cleaner and then used some bearing grease and voila.
The beautiful thing about video editing is you can record the loud squeeking engine and see the oil leak and edit a minute or two of the video and slight sound into the clean easy to hear recording of you in front of the truck. Just amazing how easy that is.
Just like someone trying to take out a tiny 2mm dash machine screw does not need a 4 foot breaker bar with 3/4 inch drive .. you know, different tools.
Thank you for your clear instructions. You’re amazing. I almost broke the bolt going the wrong way.
Thank God, I found this video. The dealer quotes me $900 for replacing the tensioner pulley assemble with an idle pulley. After watching this video, I order the tensioner pulley from online with $35, then replaced it in 20 mins. Then my 4Runner started perfectly without noise!
Thank you for the true fix!
I believe my 2006 gx470 has this same engine. Do you think i could replace this pulley as well with this same method?
I guess you can do the same, since GX460 shares the same part as 4runner in that gen. But double-check the part fits.@@Cbmk18
One black and one blue glove. Nice!
Expect to replace that aftermarket junk in less than 20K miles. Just press in a NACHI bearing (around $8 shipped) and call it done for easy 150K miles. NACHI is Toyota's OEM bearing supplier. NACHI also makes robots for toyota factories. I think the bearing is 6203 or 6301.
Maybe he can save the old part and do that for you in a few years 😉
NACHI
There is the happy and smiling guy we love to watch.
Thank you! Just finished this repair on my 2002 Tundra in 30 minutes? Exactly as demonstrated here!
@pdubsyyyy hi, it pretty much covers the pulley.
Thanks for the video It helped me a lot, thanks for your honesty and explanation
I love watching you. You are always very satisfied and happy with your work. It makes a lot of joy to see that.
I knew there was a good reason for the "teaser" video. I have the 04 limited and I think you have doagnosed my squealing problem. 👍
Welcome back my friend 🙂 👍
So I went to get a replacement a few days ago after watching this and they gave me a smaller diameter pulley. I didnt put it on the truck but I did use some alcohol to clean the riding surface of the old pulley and that got rid of my squeal completely.
Bob Ross of mechanics! 🙌
So much positivity! Another simple job, kept easy
At 230,000 I replaced the belt tensioner and the other idler pulley. It wasn't screaming... yet. Was shocked how much quieter the engine was.
Thanks, you've really helped me.
Great video! Mine just started squealing. Will do the job at the next opportunity.
Once again, another 5 star video!!
this is an excellent DIY demo
Thanks for the information! I think if I were the customer I would have spent the extra money on the OEM part...I just don't trust aftermarket parts these days.
VIEWERS- Don't forget to show some love and like this video.
nice lighting and work area videos!
Best video clear instructions
Excellent video my good sir 👍
Another how to! Thank you, Sir!!! ❤❤
Secure the transmission inlet flexible hose to the radiator to the Power steering rack (it comes like that). Without that, I've seen a fan blade cutting open the hose in a Land Cruiser with 2UZFE
peter youre a great mechanic, can a damaged noisy pulleys cause higher fuel consumption?
You should be a movie star!!!
Great video.
You can quiet a squeaking belt by turning off engine. Sprinkle Bon Ami or Barkeep cleanser( powder). Start engine, expect a puff of powder, but if noise goes away, it was because belt was contaminated with some kind fluid. Never use a oil base spray! Now, if noise does not quit after a while, then yes, bad bearing. Yes I am a retired auto tech.
My Tundra mechanic just pressed out the old common size chattering bearing from the pulley and pressed in an identical part number new one 5 or 6 years ago.
I love this guy.
Does the tensioner pulley spin freely even when torque down or is it not suppose to spin at all?
Did u have any trouble when tourqing it down, because the with the dustcover on that particular pully creates a shorter thread when installing??
Good work mate.
Did u have a problem with that dust cover and bolt going onto the new bearing? When i put it on. The dust cover does not sit flush over the bearing??
Can we change the belt only through the top or do we HaVE to access from the bottom?
Sir nice job good your workshop witch country
Do you have this video for a third gen runner?
Thank you for your help
With Over 200K Miles on the Vehicle, is this the 1st Idler Bearing being replaced on the Car?
Do you happen to know? Thank You...
Jokes! this man likes jokes! Hahaha.
Aside from that I saw from the oil seal videos that belt was very scarred on the non tooth side. Likely that old pulley locked up a few times in its 14/250 lifespan.
I can tell you love and care about this customer very much. Especially when you allow aftermarket. But also it makes sense too. Maybe the truck lasts another 100k. Maybe not even close. The age dictates you don't need a Japanese or German bearing pulley. Especially since it is so easy to change. Common sense over pride. Thanks friend.
The best!!!!
Hey..... can you do a video on rear main seals on the first gen Tacos and/or third gen 4 runners when you get one in?
Oops, thinking faster than typing. Sprinkle the cleanser on the belts as you can reach. Sorry, left that out.
I replaced my drive belt last month also the tensioner assembly as I didn't have socket to take the bolt off the belt tensioner pulley also the hydraulic assembly was bad.
Please advise on the PCV valve maintainance...is this something that needs to be changed every 100K.
Off to the parts store... I will be back shortly!
Where does flange washer go?
have you done a tensioner vid for the 4.0L motor (Tacoma)? thanks
great step by step video what is the pulley part number of the pulley you used
Yes, this would be helpful
Your my future teacher 😂
Why not press the bearing out and replace it for a fraction of the cost.
Any more coming on the oil leak?
i have a chiping nosie so put a little water on the belt nosie went away ,belt or adjustment. 2019 tacoma
What about the oil leak?
Do you know what the official torque spec is? I've searched through the factory service manual and I have found no such specification, just specifications for the idler pulley.
Did you replace the bearing only. In this.
Excellent video - thanks so much. Did you post the pulley part number and I missed it? I see entire tensioner part number listed on Toyota website but not the pulley. Mine is 4 inch diameter (100mm) and have heard some are 3.5 inch?
DId you end up getting the part #?
No I didn't... but did end up eventually finding one at local Oreilly's Auto@@JonFox1945
Here is the part #! 16603-0W030
Thanks.
Does anyone have the part number?
I would've spent the $80 on the Toyota part.
Pardon me 'Toyota Maintenance' Guy (TMG) but I'm going to ask a provocative question of your viewers.
Here goes...
Subscribers, how many of you have a friend whom is able to mimic perfectly our Toyota Maintenance Guy's patter?
My friend JJ cracks me up when he mimics TMG.
JJ has him dialed in 'Per-Fect-Lee'...
Who else has a friend like JJ?
Merry Christmas Toyota Maintenance Guy.
TMG to me if I may be allowed.
Thanks TMG your videos are the greatest.
Lucky that you have a bolt, I have a nut, which spins together with a bolt and have no f clue how to hold the bolt because it's all threaded! Yaris first gen is an obsolete ass
No fuck no. I heard that dreaded squeel the other morning in my 2013 corolla 127k miles now you post this. Fuck i give it 2 weeks before the belt snaps now. Its just fate. I can feel it calling in the air tonight. Oh lord.
Damn, you sound like me minus the F-Bombs.
2003 chirp'ping Tundra, needs diagnosis first but I;m guessing now it's the tensioner and probably due, no doubt, for a new SB.
@@claztube hey cherrish that truck buddy my 03 ac cab saved my life took it off a 60ft cliff. Cop told me "kid your lucky. I see a few of these a year right here. And they are lucky to die in the hospital". the truck nose dove into the ground so hard it bounced and landed on the drivers door. I crawled out without a scratch. Still get the air bag recall notices once a year for that truck lol.
Freak!
I drive a BMW but my goodness your explanation and strcture of your videos is a blessing to watch! Thank you sir!
Where does flange washer go?
Where does flange washer go?