Thank you for posting this and explaining it so succinctly. I'm midway through a build and dropped the body while working on the binding with a router. I opted to save my fingers but dropped the guitar on concrete, cracking the binding and the top. I've been hesitant to remove the top but I think maybe I should now so that I can inspect for loose braces.
Thank you. To be honest, I don’t think I thought of it either. I probably picked that up watching one video or another. There’s always new things to learn, which is part of the fun. God you enjoyed the video! I’ll have part two up eventually. This is a long project.
Thanks so much for this video, I'm planning to do a similar repair on an old Yamaha classical and this is super a useful (and beautifully produced!) resource to have.
I saw on another channel that commonly used binding glue melts the binding at the joint slightly so it legitimately fuses with the wood. Thats why it is so damn hard to remove.
From what I could figure out... It is called this: "How NOT to Restore a Guitar"! The link should appear at the end of this video. BUT it tells you very little. There are many other videos that explain the whole process somewhat better IMHO!!! :-)
as I said I'm not a professional and I appreciated your film because you showed where to start and how to make it possible to disassemble the top ... in what I've seen so far in others the film starts directly with the guitar ready unpacked without seeing how and with what tools to open it.
Here's an (odd) question: do you know of, or have see, acoustic guitars with removable tops? in other words, the top is not glued to the body, but somehow "fitted" in a fashion that will allow it to be taken apart and put back, without having to deal with binding glue.
How much would a process like this cost? I have a cheap la mancha guitar that I want to put a mahogany top on and also a truss rod in the neck. I have a lot of tools such as clamps and sanders.
Can anyone help? I want to transfer an image to my acoustic guitar (GPC 16E). The best product I have found so far requires the heat from an iron to be applied to the back of the image, which is face down, on the body face. Will this harm the guitar face, or cause the glue around the edges to weaken? Thanks for the help. Ak
Titebond sucks! So if you clamp overnight you do not allow it to do its job properly and your instrument will be weaker and will likely sound more dead than if you let it suck the joints together naturally. And on tap tuning, do you use harmonics to check intonation? This technique helps with developing the "ear" that will allow you to tap tune a top, perhaps even top tune a tap!
Can you elaborate on titebond sucking? Does it contract as it dries? Why would clamping deaden it? What difference does it make for the glue? I would think there would still be glue in the joint just less of it? I am an amateur and this is the first time I've heard this! Thabk you for the info
Hmmm… that won’t be the same guitar with a new top…. And I disagree that a solid cedar top will sound fuller and more resonant. Laminates are used because they project well.
The Salvation Army thrift shop is a good source for "shop" irons. The old ones are better because they don't have the modern sensors and alarms. The last one cost me $2. I can do evil things (like heat setting super glue) with it and my wife never complains.
Yeah, I actually love Salvation Army just in general. I support their mission and you can definitely find some great deals. To be honest, my wife actually gave me that iron to use in the workshop years ago. Funny, she forgot though and almost got mad until I reminded her.
Usually, to get at the braces, we remove the back so we don't have to remove the fretboard.
Thank you for posting this and explaining it so succinctly. I'm midway through a build and dropped the body while working on the binding with a router. I opted to save my fingers but dropped the guitar on concrete, cracking the binding and the top. I've been hesitant to remove the top but I think maybe I should now so that I can inspect for loose braces.
Clamping the fret board to a straightedge after removal from the neck, was something I would have never thought of. Glad I watched this!
Thank you. To be honest, I don’t think I thought of it either. I probably picked that up watching one video or another. There’s always new things to learn, which is part of the fun. God you enjoyed the video! I’ll have part two up eventually. This is a long project.
Thanks so much for this video, I'm planning to do a similar repair on an old Yamaha classical and this is super a useful (and beautifully produced!) resource to have.
Excellent work thanks for sharing 😊
This seems like quite the case of destroying an entire guitar for a simple repair job..
I saw on another channel that commonly used binding glue melts the binding at the joint slightly so it legitimately fuses with the wood. Thats why it is so damn hard to remove.
Great video🙏🏼Where can I find the second part video? I had no.luck searching the channel.. Thx!🙃
From what I could figure out... It is called this: "How NOT to Restore a Guitar"!
The link should appear at the end of this video. BUT it tells you very little.
There are many other videos that explain the whole process somewhat better IMHO!!! :-)
Thank you for the tips! I am not a profesional worker and I traied to repear my German klassic guitar Hopf 1967_1968.
Good luck with it. You may also want to watch my follow up to this, called “How Not to Repair a Guitar” where I go over my mistakes.
as I said I'm not a professional and I appreciated your film because you showed where to start and how to make it possible to disassemble the top ... in what I've seen so far in others the film starts directly with the guitar ready unpacked without seeing how and with what tools to open it.
Thanks for sharing, got mine removed (1st timer) and will try to replace it with a new one.
Acoustic guitar with a built in distortion...
Nice! Best comment I’ve read in a while.
@@BrianGossardfeature
Here's an (odd) question: do you know of, or have see, acoustic guitars with removable tops? in other words, the top is not glued to the body, but somehow "fitted" in a fashion that will allow it to be taken apart and put back, without having to deal with binding glue.
How much would a process like this cost?
I have a cheap la mancha guitar that I want to put a mahogany top on and also a truss rod in the neck.
I have a lot of tools such as clamps and sanders.
Can anyone help? I want to transfer an image to my acoustic guitar (GPC 16E). The best product I have found so far requires the heat from an iron to be applied to the back of the image, which is face down, on the body face. Will this harm the guitar face, or cause the glue around the edges to weaken? Thanks for the help. Ak
I have the same guitar!!
Titebond sucks! So if you clamp overnight you do not allow it to do its job properly and your instrument will be weaker and will likely sound more dead than if you let it suck the joints together naturally. And on tap tuning, do you use harmonics to check intonation? This technique helps with developing the "ear" that will allow you to tap tune a top, perhaps even top tune a tap!
Can you elaborate on titebond sucking? Does it contract as it dries? Why would clamping deaden it? What difference does it make for the glue? I would think there would still be glue in the joint just less of it? I am an amateur and this is the first time I've heard this! Thabk you for the info
Hmmm… that won’t be the same guitar with a new top…. And I disagree that a solid cedar top will sound fuller and more resonant. Laminates are used because they project well.
What's that song you're playing called?
I think you mean Kids Again.
It’s by Artist vs. Poet.
The Salvation Army thrift shop is a good source for "shop" irons. The old ones are better because they don't have the modern sensors and alarms. The last one cost me $2. I can do evil things (like heat setting super glue) with it and my wife never complains.
Yeah, I actually love Salvation Army just in general. I support their mission and you can definitely find some great deals. To be honest, my wife actually gave me that iron to use in the workshop years ago. Funny, she forgot though and almost got mad until I reminded her.
Hi mr gossard i wuz ur student at mwes i luv u
lol thank you.
2:13
Nafisa me and Zi ling says hi
Hi.
I was like number 69! That's how immature I am.😃
I fear for your fingers. NEVER push or pull towards your hands, even with a spatula! S