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Philippe Dufour Simplicity 37: Philippe Dufour Watch Review
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- Опубликовано: 30 окт 2020
- Contact tmosso@thewatchbox.com for pricing and availability; Either I have it, or I can get it!
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Philippe Dufour is a master watchmaker from the Swiss Vallee de Joux; he requires no further introduction. Since 2000, Dufour has confined his labors to production of his "Simplicity" model. Produced at the rate of roughly ten pieces per year, the exhaustively finished Simplicity has a straightforward three-hand dial; customers choose between 34mm or 37mm case sizes and several dial designs.
This example of the Simplicity is the collector-favored 37mm case in platinum. The lug profiles are defined by welded-and-polished construction whereby the lugs are constructed separately from the case, welded on, and all evidence of the weld is removed by hand. A sharp crease between lug and case is testament to Dufour's standard of finish -- both inside and out. The entire case is black-polished and measures a svelte 8.7mm thick Although easy to miss, the crown is slightly warmer in tone due to its white gold construction.
Although the dial of this Simplicity mirrors the characteristics of fine enamel, it is an exceptional lacquered execution by renowned dial manufacturer Metalem of Le Locle. Radial roman numerals including a "watchmaker's four" grace the glossy and smooth surface; steel Breguet hands are fired to achieve an even tempered blue. The minute hand has been hand-rolled at its tip in order to clear the underside of the crystal. A sub-seonds dial includes radially arrayed Arabic numerals placed at ten-minute intervals.
Dufour's caliber has no name, but its quality speaks volumes.
The bare specifications include a 52-hour power reserve, 18,000 VpH beat rate, 21 jewels, a free-sprung balance, a fired blue overcoil hairspring, and non-hacking setting action. The finish is where Dufour sets himself apart. Cotes de Geneve are exceptionally broad, luminous, and deeply grained. All screw heads, the elaborate click spring, the regulator cap, and the escape wheel cock cover are black polished. Dufour's anglage beveling may be the finest in the world; it is broad, bright, finished with traditional brushwood, and exhibits virtuosity in its interior angles and exterior angles. The two exterior points flanking the center wheel are worth the price of admission by themselves. Individual screws feature chamfered slots and circumferences.
The Philippe Dufour Simplicity is encased in 37mm of platinum surrounding a white dial on a black alligator strap. Features of this Philippe Dufour Simplicity include hours, minutes and small seconds. This Philippe Dufour watch also measures 8.7mm in thickness and 46.6mm from lug-to-lug.
For complete details, watch the full Philippe Dufour Simplicity review by Tim Mosso!
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I ran a bit long with this one. Can you forgive me?
Best,
Tim
not long enough, she deserves a 2hrs long special
You almost sound sad that you have to let it go.
Only if you can find another one with a guilloché dial and post a vid of that.
10 minutes flew by. Something tells me 20 would've, also.
Can’t forgive you for forgetting the lume shot at the end. Sorry, buddy.
On a Timezone tour years ago he was asked...
"What's the turnaround time for a repair?"
"I don't know. I've never had one come back."
I come back to this review every once in a while. Insane.
Wow - did not expect to see this on a Tim Mosso presentation, but happy you got to see this timepiece.
What a privilege to see this reviewed!
It was a privilege for me as well.
Best,
Tim
It's an extremely high quality watch, but I'm gonna be honest, it got a lot cooler when I learned there are only 220 of them in the whole world!
LOL I was pretty shocked at NO HACKING SECONDS. This has got to be a six-figure watch.
@@DouglasRosser watches with no hacking seconds are oddly liberating. After a bit, you just don’t give a shit anymore and enjoy the watch for what it is
@@DouglasRosser Hacking seconds limits the size of the balance wheel and many artisans do not agree with hacking seconds due to braking of the balance wheel , especially if under high velocity.
@@wingkintang7257 not only does the akrivia chronometre contemporain have hacking seconds, it's actually a stop seconds/zero-reset mechanism
Amazing, i can see PD being a true collector’s darling
Anything Philip Dufor is collectable and if you ever encounter one and it's for sale you better buy it.
This review almost made me cry. This watch is the Everest Peak. Amazing and almost Miraculous.
Woah! Amazing to see this watch.
Congratulations on getting this one on camera. Bravo.
OMG!!! It's simplicity, thanks for sharing this amazing watch
When you look at the côtes de Genève slant wise they really look like waves. Achingly beautiful.
One of the most beautiful watches I've ever laid eyes on.
ruclips.net/video/bCcwcB67ebk/видео.html similar indices design
A timepiece that will look as beautiful 100 years from now as it does today .
With an enamel or porcelain dial probably, but with lacquer I'm not so sure. I don't suppose any of us will be around to argue about it though... 🙄
A classic watch in every sense of the word. Truly timeless, unlike so many...
My top grail. Wow.
In anything there is always the best. This is the best watch. Tim reviews it, his best review. Two are at the top of their game here.
Thanks Tim!
Thanks Tim, awesome review. You didn't have to, like you said it was already sold, just a treat for us viewers. I wouldn't want it anyway: have to be Arabic numerals, not Roman. I jest, of course. Hope lucky new owner wears and enjoys his Simplicity in good health.
It's a watch by a legend watchmaker, however I can't say aesthetically or technically it's the best watch ever. When u hold a few watches in your time, there are alot of great watches out there...
WOW! never thought I'd see you do a PD!
Just WOW. Thanks a lot for this upload.
Okay this is next level
A proper watch. Beautiful.
34mm is my grail watch forever
Yes, I know the proverb: If you have to ask, you can't afford it, but I'll ask anyway and hope for an answer from Tim.
I hope Dufour takes an apprentice like George Daniels did so that his style and work can be continued.
I'm not sure *exactly* what we asked for this, but I suspect that the recent $662,000+ Sotheby's auction result informed the transaction.
Best,
Tim
Dufour own daughter is following in his footsteps and aim to continue her fathers work. There are several videos here on you tube with him if you care to look.
@@dorkflassbury1164 Cool! But imagine the pressure she may feel..
It's a goal to review one on my channel, hope it happens next year Q1 :)
I hope you get the chance. It was a memorable experience.
Best,
Tim
@@the1916companywatchreviews hope so! Thank you Tim for showing it!
Forgiven Tim ! fantastic watch thankyou lucky new owner!
Beautiful review. congrats on the sale!
Thanks for sharing this. My favourite watch.
Incredible in every way.
Man, I hope a review of “GF signature1” I have 18cm wrist! I mean whatever fits you, it gone look amazing on my wrist, what I mean you’re my god damn hero... bless you.
The GOAT
^This.
Best,
Tim
He's the best. Point. Thanks for sharing Tim!
Wow. Thank you for doing this.
The legend..
Dufour is the greatest.
Simply beautiful.
Hai fatto bene, complimenti.
Absolutely stunning!
This is the Stradivarius of watches.
The craftsmanship is unbelievable. I appreciate you answering what makes a watch haute horlogerie. I know this watch is sold, but what is the reference number? I want to know because I am thinking about searching for the this watch.
There is no reference number. There is also no website from the producer, nor is there a single boutique that sells them. We do not know the price he charges for them. He doesn't advertise either. Word of mouth gives him plenty clientele. He produces at most 10 watches per year, and they very rarely reach the 2nd hand market. when they do, they reach astronomical prices.
Can the quality get any better?? Hard to imagine
Machines always do a better job than man, this is why they exist.
@Alan-cl2ix can machine score a free kick like Beckham?
I've watched many Dufour videos. "Magniicent" barely describes the master's work!
A perfect time piece both in size and making.
Amazing piece 👍
Now I need to find a Duality to top this video!
Best,
Tim
Is there any advantage to welding the lugs onto the case instead of the more tradional way by carving (or casting) the case and lugs together?
Yep, that’s it! 🤩
I'm glad I don't have this watch, I would just stare at it 24/7.
How did you get a hold of this? Wild
Visited D. Dornblüth & Sohn yesterday: must say at least equally impressive as they make almost everything inhouse and at a fraction of the price. Check it out
Yup, great price/value!
Big fan of Dornbluth & Sohn. Also a bigger fan of Defour.
Must say I agree.... The dornbluth and sons 2010 is as bespoke and probably better finished IMHO
A company of ten watchmakers working in a factory as opposed to one single watchmaker working oil his atelier. Zero comparison. And the Dufour is still better by miles/kilometers...
I'm sure everything said about the workmanship is completely true. I guess it makes more impression in the metal and up close. If TM says it's amazing then I'm inclined to believe that. And Dufour seems like a super nice and charismatic guy. But I'm musing to myself; would you really be able to distinguish that at 2 metres, from any well made dress watch? Is what I'm experiencing like being in a 2 Michelin star restaurant, eating the eye poppingly expensive desert , all the while repressing the guilty thought that it tastes a bit like a Snickers bar.
The entire point is precisely that you *can't* "...
Great video as always. What is the reason for the gold crown and tang buckle?
Well this is a rare pleasure!
outstanding movement !!!
The outsourced lacquer dial bugs me.
It's wild these things are so rare you hide the "serial number". I wonder if these things are "flippable" and you need to protect the original buyer?
Judging by the serial number, it likely was built in the 2000s. Nobody "flipped" this watch, but I am trying to offer some privacy to the original and subsequent owner -- especially since the watch was sold by the time I shot this video. I wanted to document the Simplicity for collectors' reference without exposing the new owner in any fashion.
Best,
Tim
This must be among the most beautiful watches in existence. But why not use the opportunity to write what I would see as improvements. 2 things basically. I would have preferred the second circle (or whatever it’s called) to be with a slightly smaller diameter/radius . Secondly I would have preferred the hour hand to be shorter so it wouldn’t overlap the hour numbers. Beyond these things, it’s perfect! Oh no by the way there’s another issue.... The price 😕
So, the dial is actually bought from another maker? I am a bit disappointed that the part one will actually look at, is not handmade by Dufour
Maybe the dial maker is better at making the dials than philippe dufour
lovely.
This is what a true watch connoisseur chooses; not some bandwagon “gotta have its” whose price is artificially driven by market conditions.
This watch is exactly driven by market conditions based on the lack of PD watches manufactured per year. 2.5hz, non hacking movement isn’t a connoisseur movement I don’t care how well finished it is.
Chris the fact that the movement doesn’t have a hacking mechanism, uses a 2.5hz balance frequency, not automatic, etc. all have little to do with whether this would be a connoisseur’s choice or not! Some of the world’s most revered makers don’t use hacking mechanisms. Right around 2000, Blancpain stated that they held off on hacking mechanisms for one reason only - they found that movements that are regularly hacked undergo premature wear and tear, necessitating more frequent servicing intervals. By saying that this is a true “connoisseur’s choice” I’m referring to the fact that someone would choose it based on their connection to its rarity or based on an emotional connection to it in order to own and to heirloom, not because of which brand name appears on the dial (as many don’t know who PD is without doing a Google search), the way that anything Rolex, Nautilus, and Royal Oak so-called “fan boys” (who really aren’t true connoisseurs, just poseurs) have caused crazy supply, demand, and pricing situations when the only thing they consider is what they’ll be able to sell a watch for after buying it, hardly being able to wait to get rid of it like a hot potato as soon as they do buy it, all of that silliness really only within the past few years. Tim has eluded to this topic in certain WatchBox productions episodes in the recent past and I echo his sentiment.
@@jumboJetPilot I’d still sooner have 2-3 FP Journes over the one in the video. There are plenty of hand manufactured, pure in house watches that cost less and demonstrate more ingenuity than the one in the video. I agree on the prices of Rolex, RO and Aquanaut/ Nautilus prices being mental though.
Chris But I did see your reply under someone else’s comment. I have to agree with you that Roger Smith, Dornblueth & Sohn, and FPJ are all great choices as well.
Chris Another overlooked choice is RGM. They’ll make you a bespoke piece literally any way you want it. Not very often you can have a true one-of-a-kind!
I like D&S’s central and small seconds models. But I’d like one with the MOP dial in the 40mm size (the MOP is currently only available in their 31mm size). They never did get back to me. I might bug them again about it before long...
What's the difference between the Simplicity shown here and the earlier Simplicity watches, like the one worn by Philippe Dufour? The faces are totally different. The original has a wavy circular center.
How much costs the watch?
Jesus Christ where did you get this? 😵
Amazing watch! Thanks! I only wish you wouldn’t constantly move it around and cover it with your fingers.
Those screws are worth a LOT more than 100CHF...
One word: perfection.
The two downvoters are probably invicta owners.
Magnifique!
I love this watch,can anyone recommend a similar rounded pocket watch style gold watch?
Is there any reason for the buckle and the crown to be white gold?
White gold is often used instead of platinum in the mechanically involved parts of the watch as it is harder than platinum
Are you able to do a review on a a Franck Muller vanguard 7 days skeleton in rose gold? There isn’t any info on this watch on youtube
grail. No other words.
Beauty is in the eye... Tim does his usual amazing job! PDF is the king because watch people made him king.I am no longer a big fan. Don’t like the lugs, the dial may be a problem in the future, don’t like the mixed metals. For the money, I think you can do better. Sorry for my lack of intelligence, can’t fix stupid! Could never afford one, anyway.☹️
Agree with the comments about the lugs, dial. Having never handled this nor a KV or GF, videos make the finishing on KV and GF look more appealing. Hell, even those Credor Eichi’s which, truth be told, were modeled after this PD simplicity
Agree. If Seiko, Anordain and Sinn can do true enamel at reasonable prices then why lacquer? This is lacquer isn't it? Stowa does this at a very low price... Obviously this is PD so its got to be sublime.
Credor do true porcelain which is a lightyear ahead of enamel in terms of quality, durability and longevity....
Painted and mixed metals I agree, are a further step down the ladder.
My Credor Ichi II dial will almost certainly look better in 100 years.....but I doubt there will be enough light in the coffin for me to confirm?😂
Any alternative of this one please ?
In reality, it doesn’t match the level of hype. But appreciate PD for championing hand-finishing using artisanal techniques
Have you actually physically seen and/or even handled one in person?
@@JamesSmithRUclips yes. Have you?
@@lankysudanese I own one. If you had seen one in person and had the time to thoroughly examine it up close and personal, then in reality, you'd clearly know it not only matches the level of hype, but exceeds it.
@@JamesSmithRUclips I’m glad that you are beyond-satisfied in your ownership. When I compared it to similarly priced watches from other independents, it was nice but not the one that I’d pick out of the line-up. Such are matters of the heart
If I got this watch I'd sell it to buy every watch I've ever wanted.
"No corners were cut here"
@Tim, are new PD watches only available on auctions?
No. He told me last year in Dubai that the watch remains available, and he recently introduced the "20th Anniversary" series of the watch.
Best,
Tim
@@the1916companywatchreviews Thank you, Tim!
For a watch that now has a supposed retail price of over USD 600,000 and collectors are buying for almost double that, having a white gold buckle and crown is extremely underwhelming.
No watch is worth that money unless it was worn by Jesus himself. Way too overpriced beyond sense, nothing justifies this price, it doesn't matter how much it jerked off those parts to polish them or if it assembled and dissasmbled them several times, it just isn't mathing. Also only you would know how much this watch is worth or who made it as no one else would think this watch is worth more than 100 euros. Everyone knows Rolex and that it costs a lot, no one but extreme watch enthusiasts know Philipe Dufour.
no wonder Seiko has some indices that look like this!
The dial reminds me of the UN Classico Grand Feu, though the enamel quality is visibly better (as it should be at the price!).
This is lacquer.
@@adolf-8834 The UN is Grand Feu enamel, applied by their in-house specialist Donzé Cadrans. Check it out.
monochrome-watches.com/ulysse-nardin-classico-manufacture-grand-feu-enamel-sihh-2018-hands-on-price/
Just as Moser supplies hairsprings to many of the other Swiss independents, Donzé Cadrans does many of the dials.
@@adolf-8834 Oops sorry, I see what you mean. I mis-remembered the video. But the dials do have a similar appearance
I love it, I want it, I'll sell my car, my house, even a kidney!
Watch that costs as much as a house and the second hand doesn't hack?! Seriously?!
Holy shit
Guess a number and be right!
Un sogno:..:.........
Really. Let’s look at this. The dial is made by someone else. The Buckel and Crown aren’t Platinum and who will service this watch once PD is no longer around.
I can see the objections about materials and sourcing (which is why I emphasized them), but service isn't a concern. There's literally nothing here that any WOSTEP, SAWTA, or CW21 certified watchmaker couldn't handle in a few hours.
Best,
Tim
I love this brand it is really a piece of art. How much does one of this watches cost?
The price of this is like that of a nice house 🏠 Perhaps as much as 435k USD at auction.
When I see the lugs am I wrong to think of Dumbo? Gold buckle and crown on a platinum watch? At only 220, they could have done better.
Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity!
It's finished off with pieces of soft local vegetation that he grows himself..lol what!?
It's a common practice. Gauthier highlights this romantic tradition, too.
No chatons?
Looks like a nice watch, but way too much collector hype for what it is. Feels like these are only being traded now in hopes of re-auctioning them in the future.
Laurent Ferrier gives 85% of the finish on its steel Galet Micro-Rotors at 6% of the Dufour's auction value. The price of the Simplicity new is quite reasonable, but it seems that the only way to get one quickly these days is auction, and those yields are absurd.
Best,
Tim
@@the1916companywatchreviews touché
Buy it and get those lugs trimmed down.
non hacking?
That watch is beautiful.
I would settle for a counterfeit if that's an option?
If you can't afford a Patek Phillipe......
.... you can ALWAYS buy a Phillipe DUFOUR😂😂😂
Huh❓
Did you say it doesn't have hacking?
Such a shame for this kind of watch craftmanship to have number 4 written wrong. It should be ‘IV’ , not ‘IIII’ .
Will look better on a nato...
Apart from scarcity, hmmm not overly impressed