0:00 WHY to test them. 4:37 WHAT to use to test them. 8:12 Testing explained (new, good battery for reference) 10:30 HOW to test them (internal resistance) 12:30 BAD BATTERY example, for comparison
I know this video is 3 years old now, but the information is still relevant. And the same tool is still available on Amazon. Only difference with mine is it will keep the last test settings, which is nice. Thanks for posting. I browsed a few other videos and subscribed.
Thank you! I've been using a car battery tester for testing these for a while now, but this video really demystifies how these testers work and make me feel more comfortable trusting the reading it gives.
Another thing to look at is the terminals... F1 or F2. You can always squeeze an F2 lug to work on an F1 spade... and you can get an adapter to use an F1 lug on an F2 spade. But if you pay attention to the specs, you can get these batteries with the correct spade terminal for your UPS cables.
I had no idea the attention span of a fly is even longer than mine... Thank you for sharing your expertise sir, very helpful indeed. No worries to get caught off guard by a dead UPS back up battery ever again.
Hi Mark, the video clarified several doubts that I had and I'm thinking about to buy an Ancel Ba-101 it appears to be very useful to measure the battery health stated based on internal resistance. Thanks. I have another issue to ask you, based on your experience why not replace the ordinary UPS battery, to a MASTER U-POWER AGM 55Ah 12 V . Obviously we have here issues related with space, but if I keep the battery outside from the box, are you seeing any other disadvantage ? Thanks again.
Thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for. Internal resistance is a useful indicator of battery health. Thank you for pointing that out. I already have a Foxwell BT-715 that is able to measure internal resistance. It does this in a back handed way by applying a known load and determining the difference between the no load terminal voltage and the loaded terminal voltage along with the current flowing. This is far more difficult to determine with basic tools like a multi-meter and DC capable clamp meter and the ability to perform some basic arithmetic. Anyway, the two batteries from the UPS (APC Back-UPS XS 1300) I was checking had internal resistances 73.54 and 76.67 milli-ohms so it is evident that they are bad as the data sheet indicated they should be around 19 milli-ohms. When I discovered your video I said, >18 minutes - too long but I decided to give it a shot. When you started talking, I said, OK this guy thinks the same way (asks himself the same questions) as I would, (When you talked about minimizing risk by hot swapping batteries) so I’ll listen a bit more. Eventually you got to the discussion about internal resistance then I was sure I had found a reliable information source. Later you mentioned about $CDN and finally I noticed you are a Canadian Engineer - Electrical I assume. This explained a lot in terms of how you approached this problem, found relevant data, and interpreted that data, etc. I, too, am a bit of a UPS fanatic. I have four APC Back-UPS XS1300s supporting computer and entertainment equipment distributed throughout the house. I also have four older APC Smart UPS units, 2 X 1000VA, 1 X 1400 VA and 1 X 3000VA. These older units have all been modified to use external 35 AH deep cycle batteries and provide more than an hour of backup for my servers, Internet connection, alarm system and home automation equipment. I also have a 7200 Watt (continuous output) emergency power plant that I use for longer outages. BTW, I had to reduce the sensitivity settings on all the UPS units so that they would accept power from the emergency power plant. I also have a few smaller UPS units that are used for bedroom table lamps, clocks, etc. And no, I don’t have a UPS on my microwave (other commenters) but it runs just fine on the emergency power system. I have subscribed to your channel and given you a like on this video. I’ll take a look at the other stuff you have posted soon. Thanks again.
I've seen numerous YT videos that show hooking up large(r) batteries to various UPS models. I'd be interested to know what mods you made to achieve this configuration. I just installed new cells in my Smart-UPS 3000 (SU3000RM 5U). Made my own packs using cells from fleabay and the fuse & harness from the previous pack. The unit is charging them as I write this. This unit also has an Anderson connector on the back for a "SU3000 48V, 816VAh" unit. Is this port something I could use for a (customized) external pack along the lines of what you did?
@@louistournas120 Yes. I normally replace the native battery wiring with longer heavier gauge (2 AWG with red or black insulation). This sometimes means removing and soldering new wires on the UPS motherboard. I drill holes and grommet them in the existing casing to bring the wires outside the enclosure. And I apply suitable connectors (typically crimp on ring connectors with red of black insulators) for the batteries used. The battery type I use is always identical chemistry to the OEM battery (Typically Sealed Lead Acid Deep Cycle). Such batteries normally have the same open circuit fully charged voltage and float voltage as the OEM batteries. This ensure that the native charger will operate fine to charge and float the battery as required. The main difference is that these larger capacity batteries will take more time to charge. For the larger UPS units, the battery can be 24 or 48 V. This is generally achieved by creating these battery banks using a series of identical (both in age and AH capacity) 12 V batteries wired in series.
@@andrewr7820 I have an older SU3000 wired with four 35AH 12 V deep cycle batteries. These batteries are configured as two banks of 24 V batteries matching the OEM setup. I also have an unmodified APC SMX2000L. This is a rack mounted unit. The base unit has one 120V battery module (10 X 12 V batteries and about 50 lbs.) that is integral to the UPS unit with an Anderson style connector. I also have two additional rack mounted (19” X 2U) battery modules. Each of these units holds two of the 120 V battery modules that connect internally with Anderson connectors. These units are back wired and can be daisy chained together with the unit closest to UPS unit jacking into a connector on the back of the base unit. See response above for notes on charging.
@deanrhodenizer938 Thank you for the extremely informative reply. I think I'll look at creating an external pack that connects to the rear (red) Anderson connector port of the SU3000, unless you think there's a better way to do it.
You can also use a power resistor and volt meter as a cheap and dirty alternative to a dedicated tester, ohms law will let you calculate the internal resistance. Even an automotive bulb will suffice as a go/no go test. Just needs to draw several amps from the battery so you can observe the voltage drop. For a capacity test run the battery down at its rated c rate ie 7ah at C20 = 350mA for 20 hours until whatever termination voltage is in the datasheet.
Subbed, fellow Canadian here. I have the same tester and same 9Ah batteries. At what resistance do you consider it failed? Also my 12v car battery stopped starting my Toyota hybrid and reads 8miloOhms. A new Costco battery gave me 4.5ish (in the cold 0C). Think the battery is bad or parasite load? Edit: Wow I think I used your pfsense videos a decade ago!!!! Bell 3gig fiber now!
Really appreciate the video, I am dealing with a stair chair that is running slow. The thing has a cove on it that prevents me from testing it under a load. Of course the charged voltage is acceptable but also no indication of the battery health. I have 7ah batteries on order but hate to replace them without knowing for sure. Currently the same tester is around $35, which is also the price of two 12v7ah batteries. So, I am ordering the Ancel because you have made it clear how to use it in this application and it will also be on hand to test car batteries as needed. I am also returning the 7ah batteries for 9ah replacements, also didn't know that the higher ah were acceptable.Thanks Mark
The demonstration of internal resistance measurement is excellent. Also very helpful was your suggestion to buy the 9Ah vs. 7Ah battery. We subscribed.
Very glad to see this demonstration. I was at my computer when the city power went out and every piece of equipment that was connected to my UPS shut down.
1. How do you know that RBC battery is AGM? 2. How do you know the target internal resistance, or peak amps of the RBC battery? I can't find anything online about my RBC109 battery. I also contacted APC, and they couldn't provide me with a rated peak amps, or nominal internal resistance. Do you have a link with specs for APC RBC batteries?
I got the same response from APC. I suppose The only way to really know the internal resistance is to buy one of their batteries and connect it to the meter. Of course, you still won't know the rated peak amps.
What an insanely helpful video. I bought an Ancel BST100 for ~£17 and followed your instructions - worked perfectly, and that model did remember the settings between uses as well.
APC UPS units tend to charge the batteries really fast, they will be back at full float voltage within 2 hours. They will cook the internal batteries pretty fast, just like most small UPS units do. I took those internal batteries out, and instead used an external deep cycle battery to replace it, giving both much longer running time, and also letting the battery run around 20C cooler than it was in the case, increasing it's operational life. Also went for flooded cell, instead of AGM or gel, so that the APC "cook it till full" charge method would not kill the cells prematurely, by boiling off all the water in the cell, now I can just check every 3 months and top up a little, keeping the battery running longer. As well get a slightly better UPS than the cheapest ones, preferably a little oversize, and one that has monitoring capability on it. The larger units will have both a self test feature and monitoring, so you get a record of the battery health when connected to a computer and running the UPS software, or the open source version, which I do. Quick tip to tell with those 9Ah and 7.2 Ah units what the current capacity is, is to look at the terminals, the high current capable ones have the 6.3mm spades, the low current capacity ones use a smaller 4mm spade, and thus are capable of supplying much less current reliably. The low current types though are the typical gate motor and alarm batteries. They do not work well in a UPS, where they have to provide 20A or more to the transformer when in use. Beware though of unknown brand name batteries, if the 12V 7.2/9Ah brick is light weight, typically for these around 1.8kg for the good ones, a light one is a fake unit, with less than half the number of plates, and a fill of polystyrene making up the rest of the cell inside. Only caveat is that you get lithium iron batteries in this form factor, and those are very light compared to lead acid, but are clearly marked as lithium iron, and have a slightly different charge and float requirement, but are a near drop in replacement for low power loads.
All the small UPSes I've dealt with use 10W chargers, so they usually take more than 2 hours to charge. APC units in general all overcharge the batteries, and this is one of the many practises that I don't condone and one of the reasons why I don't buy APC units anymore. For large UPSes, I think your practices make sense since the overall cost is higher.
@@TheUbuntuGuy All the small ones I have gotten for free with dead batteries almost always use the main transformer to charge the battery, relying on the power mosfet body diodes to do the rectification. Lower cost, and high current charge till the battery is near float voltage. Only older ons have a separate small charge transformer and a regulator to charge the battery, and those almost always you see the regulator is well cooked from high power dissipation.
Thanks. I bought that Ancel BA101 testing on Amazon for $40 CAD (Prime discount plus a coupon). Works great and takes the guess work out of figuring out what are bad batteries, good for smaller UPSs and good for high performance UPSs. I bought four brand new 9Ah batteries locally from a reputable shop and they all test at 45mohm and fail self tests in the UPS. This video + the tester gave me the ammo to go back and tell them the batteries they sold me are garbage.
Video, I've been looking for something like this but I didn't know what to set my tester on. Mine's made by top-down, similar to what you got. I had a 24-volt system and it said replace batteries. I took them to the battery supply place and they said they'd give me $0.50 for the pair of them. Two of these is nearly as heavy as my car battery, I was expecting more than that. Anyhow I brought them home and one charges up to 12.78 volts. I took the Caps off the other one and it took quite a bit of water to bring it up to level. There are two possibly just one cells that aren't charging. I've got a battery desulfator and I've got that connected to it now to see if maybe it'll jump start the dead cell or cells. I set my tester to SAE instead of CCA. I reduce the amperage down to 40, as low as it would go. It tested out one-hundred percent state of health and 97% of charge. I'll have to dig up the specs on my battery and test it using your method. Thanks again, very informative. 👍
Is there any ups on the market that tests the battery itself in a proper way ? I had several that lasted exactly one second under power interruption test , while the “battery bad” led wasn’t lit.
I purchased the Ancel and realized I may not be able to use it to test my small UPS battery - Power Sonic PS-1230 (12v 3.4Ah). The battery's rated maximum discharge amp (10sec) is 10.2 amperes. The minimum CA for the Ancel is 100Amps. Please help.
Question: OK let me get this right a lower m-ohms is better ? The higher resistance number or m-ohms the closer it is to end of life right ? I use these for kayaking to power a small fish finder so I only need 5 hours tops and I have a bunch of old UPS batteries that still hold 5+ hours but are no good for the UPS. Now I have 4 old ones not sure what one is the best. I think now I do thanks for the help.
I have question, I purchased a brand new 12v 9ah lead acid battery, I charged it for a little bit and then used it just a little bit, it was not fully charged, is that bad, could I have damaged the battery and it’s performance
I have a Minute man Enterprise E2000RTXL2U that has six BB Battery BP7-12. Two of the batteries test bad. Can I buy 9AH replacements and mix them with the remaining 7AH batteries? Seems to be mixed results when i try to search this. Thank You
Great video! I put some LIFEPO4 lithium ion batteries into my UPS about 4 months ago and my UPS shut down yesterday during a very rare brown out yesterday. Can your method be used to test those batteries? Would anything be done differently?
Will this battery tester work on 12v UPS batteries? also how much can the resistance be off ? and if it isn't what does that mean that it could be charged? with what a battery charger, shouldn't the bar charge the battery by itself? so when it doesn't work, hold charge after the bar is unplugged , isn't it just better to buy a new battery?
I bought a used one the surge side works but no lights come on..... Does it mean battery is dead??? Is this why lights aren't working???? Never used one I'm using for reef tank till I get a generator or better back up..
How exactly are you determining when to replace the battery? Is it only based on the resistance or are you also looking at the amperage the battery is still capable of and comparing it to the potential load on the UPS and determining based on that whether or not the performance of the battery is still acceptable?
Pretty much exactly that. If the IR of the battery is too high for the current required, it will be useless. Below that, it's runtime will be reduced. Exactly what IR you consider failed depends on the load and runtime requirements in the specific use case.
My ups is seems to be not sustaining charge (computer shutting down, and i also used a heatgun to test, lasted less than a minute on battery backup), i tested the batteries (2x) with a multimeter, and one is 12.66v and the other is 13.4v, i should replace the two batteries right?
Hi there I learned alot watching your video. I have a Canadian Tire Eliminator Booster Pack with Air Compressor that is rated at 1400 Peak Battery Amps and 700 Crank Assist amps. I am trying to learn how to test the battery without having to dissasemble the unit. First would you say this type of battery would be a AGM Flat plate battery? Second question ... since the CA or Cranking Amp rating of the battery is needed to perform the test do you have any idea how I could get this CA rating information without taking the unit apart? My idea was to get a tester like the one you used ... connect the leads to the booster pack leads, turn the power on to the leads and do the test. Thank you for any information that you can share.
Very informative thank you. I have a question that was not answered in the video even tho you gave out a ton of info. My Cyber Power UPS say the battery is good & says it should power the device for 10 minutes, & is charged 100%, after removing the batteries they both read 13,54 vols (I don't have a tester like you show) When I ran the self test on the UPS it shuts down within one second even with nothing plugged into it, when I turn off the AC to the UPS plug, it immediately shuts down. The Batteries are 3 or maybe even 4 years old. While everything says the batteries are good from the voltage on the multi-meter, to the readings on the UPS itself. The self test & AC power cutoff say they are bad. Is it still very likely that the batteries are the problem? Or is it possible that the UPS is faulting out internally? I already ordered 2 new batteries hoping it is the former, but 13,54 volts sure seems to indicate that the batteries are good. I'll find out in a few days when my new batteries arrive ; ) Thanks in advance if you choose to respond 😎👍
In my experience, batteries never last in a UPS more than 3 years, and that's pushing it. Immediately after charging, they'll show a high voltage. You can let them then sit for a day, then check the voltage again - they'll likely drop down to under 11 volts.
Glad to see you posting a new Video! I really like your videos and there aren't really any other youtube channels who do similar stuff in the style as you do. Also, thanks for your wiki. I find myself using it very often to get new Ideas for my homelab :)
This is absolute great stuff. I was wondering why the UPS is rejecting the battery that when measured it tests fine but when I attach a newer batt it stops beeping. Now thanks to your great info, I should be able to tell why. Very useful stuff. Thanks for such great video.
Hey Mark, What if the same tester that you're using shows, "check connection" ??? on a 12VDC 3Ah battery attempting to test at "3. Out of Vehicle" and "2.AGM Flat Plate" with Cranking Amps just as you did. If I don't get an actual test result, I can't assume that the battery is bad. This is an actual APC battery pulled from an APC battery backup 350.
Great information. Sometimes finding the specifications on the battery is difficult or impossible to find because of the stickers on the battery or the manufacturer doesn't give all the specs. This video gives me enough to go on. Thanks!
So Mark, what would be an acceptable range tolerance for the measured internal resistance? +- 10%, 50% etc? I am reviving 18650 cells and purchased a meter that measurese intrnal resistance more or less accurately. I've foynd that around 24-25 milli ohms (or less) is acceptable. If the internal resistance hits 30 or above the cells have tested (using capacity tests etc.) bad.
I cannot seem to find UPS batteries that last more than 4-6 months. Years ago, I could buy those batteries and they would last 3-5 years. Can you , please, recommend a solution?
If you don have th milli ohms you can use the CA result. in this video it is 211 and 212. the slight change is probably due to the first reading heating the battery a bit which changed either the voltage or the ohms slightly
Just ordered that exact battery tester from Amz after watching this video. Was $32+tx USD, with 30% off, so not even $25 USD total to get this tomorrow. :)
Good vid. I bought an ANCEL BA301 as it had a few more features than the BA101. - Retains the meter settings you set it to on last test ran. - maybe the 101 has it, but the ability to print out the setting your meter detected on the battery-under-test. - lifetime updates via USB cable Anyway, I ran the test meter BEFORE topping off each cylinder with DISTILLED WATER. - I THEN TOPPED OFF each cell with Distilled water. Ran battery tester tests. - I connected a Battery Tender Trickle Charger Junior and let it run overnight. -The next morning I disconnected the charger and reconnected the battery meter. -Re-ran tests and impedance looked better, Status was now GOOD BATTERY. NOTE: even though my charger was a lower end trickle charger, it is a good idea to leave caps off during charging. I had at least one cap emit a LOUD "POP"! Then it came off, flew a bit and landed on the top section of the battery, So I removed the rest of the battery caps. Reviewed all cylinders. Cleaned all-cap areas with Q-TIPS, to remove excess acid/water. Added water where needed. So the battery was salvaged, Reinstalled into ups and ups unit works fine. Battery meter status, after refilling with distilled water, changed to GOOD BATTERY. Having a battery test meter that checks IMPEDANCE makes a big difference. A very handy piece of test equip to have onhand.
While these battery testers might give you an idea they are mostly for starter batteries.(it even shows cold cranking amps) The correct procedure is with an analyzer and charge discharge cycles to determine the capacity or maybe a 1khz test rignal to check the internal resistance too. Deep discharge batteries has a lower discharge rate than starter batteries. These testers determine the resistance by connecting a high load and calculate from the amps derived from it. While it's ok for starter batteries it's not so good for deep discharge batteries like that and you may get false readings. Basically a multimeter will be just fine to determine if they are good from the stand by voltage if you don't have an analyzer.
To measure the internal resistance you have to apply a load and measure the voltage drop and current draw. if you divide the voltage drop by the current draw you get the internal resistance of the battery. You can't just check its internal resistance with a volt meter.
Great video thanks. I don't recommend swapping batteries with the power connected though. There are live connections inside and with some UPSs the battery terminals are at mains potential to ground.
APC RBC55 is a VRLA battery, 17Ah, 12VDC; I cannot find the discharge rate on any datasheets. I would guess the "CA" is higher than 135, but cant figure it out for sure, Anyone else maintaining these? Thanks.
Would this type of test work for lithium ion batteries? I’ve read that the internal resistance for lithium ion batteries stays consistent throughout its life
Thanks for the video. Good suggestion on how to test UPS batteries. I know I get errors on my UPS units alot.. even after replacing the batteries after a short while. Having a little trouble with the Ancel BST100 tester I just picked up. Sometimes it says CHECK CONNECTIONS. But the seem pretty solid. Screen is on and solid. Other times it says the resistance is 0. That can't be right I assume. Ever run into this? Did I just get a bad tester?
Thanks for this video Mark. I picked up an Ancel BA301 and it works great! Also, this model remembers the CA setting between sessions. Great little unit. Btw- speaking of trash batteries, I measured a defective one at 194.42 mOhm 😀
so i have this kind of nice multimeter that has the little resistance symbol, which im guessing means when i switch it to that, it measures resistance. does that work as well? does it apply a small load to test the resistance like the battery tester? thanks!
Can i hook up a car battery 12V, 100 Ah in order to have a longer discharge time when original battery was only 7 or 9 Ah? Is the electronics going to be ok and just recahrge time is going to be longer or it will burn my UPS?
Yes, you can, but never do it. The car batteries are venting gases and dangerous for indoor use. Especially during the charging cycle. If you planning for prolong power outage that can't be handled by UPS itself it is better and more efficient to get portable gas generator. You will need to take care of exhaust gases. www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-use-a-generator/
Very good video! I have a ton of old batteries that needs to be checked, i just have a question. Do i need to charge the batteries to 100% before i test? Thanks!
If you're counting, I'm interesting in any future videos involving you trying to automate or mess with the USB port of that battery tester. Thanks for the helpful info.
Hi Mark. Brand new 12v 9AH i just picked up are measuring around 20-21 resistance. What resistance do you personally decide to replace a UPS battery? I have some of the same batteries measuring 27-28 resistance now and they are getting long in the tooth. Thanks for the great pointer about the car battery tester. I have the Foxwell and it works great! BTW the new 9AH are measuring right around 165 CA.
Thanks you, very helpful to be able to be able to test the UPS batteries, better than guessing! I went with the Ancel BT500 that uses a smart phone app via bluetooth, upsides are; can define batteries (for which it retains the settings), keeps all previous reports and lets you send them to text, email, print, etc... and the unit is very compact.
I came here to learn how to change my battery but I became an electrical engineer. You rock.
Congratulations on YT-Certification, Fellow Electrical Engineer!
Hooooly hell.... After a year since the last upload.... He's back! Love your videos!
Wooooo, Glad to see you back!
0:00 WHY to test them.
4:37 WHAT to use to test them.
8:12 Testing explained (new, good battery for reference)
10:30 HOW to test them (internal resistance)
12:30 BAD BATTERY example, for comparison
where did you find data sheets for the batteries that show internal resistance values? I can't seem to locate them.
I know this video is 3 years old now, but the information is still relevant. And the same tool is still available on Amazon. Only difference with mine is it will keep the last test settings, which is nice. Thanks for posting. I browsed a few other videos and subscribed.
Thank you! I've been using a car battery tester for testing these for a while now, but this video really demystifies how these testers work and make me feel more comfortable trusting the reading it gives.
Glad to hear from you again, hope all is well 😊
You used 12Volt deep cycle battery 🔋 75A get more 9hours and more on battery 🔋😊
Another thing to look at is the terminals... F1 or F2. You can always squeeze an F2 lug to work on an F1 spade... and you can get an adapter to use an F1 lug on an F2 spade. But if you pay attention to the specs, you can get these batteries with the correct spade terminal for your UPS cables.
I had no idea the attention span of a fly is even longer than mine...
Thank you for sharing your expertise sir, very helpful indeed. No worries to get caught off guard by a dead UPS back up battery ever again.
Any ideas on testing a battery with
Hi Mark, the video clarified several doubts that I had and I'm thinking about to buy an Ancel Ba-101 it appears to be very useful to measure the battery health stated based on internal resistance. Thanks. I have another issue to ask you, based on your experience why not replace the ordinary UPS battery, to a MASTER U-POWER AGM 55Ah 12 V . Obviously we have here issues related with space, but if I keep the battery outside from the box, are you seeing any other disadvantage ? Thanks again.
So let correct if im wrong. If the battery is rated for internal 12.0 milliohms anything like 30, 40 milliohms will determine this as a bad battery?
Thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for. Internal resistance is a useful indicator of battery health. Thank you for pointing that out. I already have a Foxwell BT-715 that is able to measure internal resistance. It does this in a back handed way by applying a known load and determining the difference between the no load terminal voltage and the loaded terminal voltage along with the current flowing. This is far more difficult to determine with basic tools like a multi-meter and DC capable clamp meter and the ability to perform some basic arithmetic. Anyway, the two batteries from the UPS (APC Back-UPS XS 1300) I was checking had internal resistances 73.54 and 76.67 milli-ohms so it is evident that they are bad as the data sheet indicated they should be around 19 milli-ohms.
When I discovered your video I said, >18 minutes - too long but I decided to give it a shot. When you started talking, I said, OK this guy thinks the same way (asks himself the same questions) as I would, (When you talked about minimizing risk by hot swapping batteries) so I’ll listen a bit more. Eventually you got to the discussion about internal resistance then I was sure I had found a reliable information source. Later you mentioned about $CDN and finally I noticed you are a Canadian Engineer - Electrical I assume. This explained a lot in terms of how you approached this problem, found relevant data, and interpreted that data, etc.
I, too, am a bit of a UPS fanatic. I have four APC Back-UPS XS1300s supporting computer and entertainment equipment distributed throughout the house. I also have four older APC Smart UPS units, 2 X 1000VA, 1 X 1400 VA and 1 X 3000VA. These older units have all been modified to use external 35 AH deep cycle batteries and provide more than an hour of backup for my servers, Internet connection, alarm system and home automation equipment. I also have a 7200 Watt (continuous output) emergency power plant that I use for longer outages. BTW, I had to reduce the sensitivity settings on all the UPS units so that they would accept power from the emergency power plant. I also have a few smaller UPS units that are used for bedroom table lamps, clocks, etc. And no, I don’t have a UPS on my microwave (other commenters) but it runs just fine on the emergency power system.
I have subscribed to your channel and given you a like on this video. I’ll take a look at the other stuff you have posted soon. Thanks again.
You simply connected a larger battery (35 AH) to your UPS and it is able to charge it fully?
I've seen numerous YT videos that show hooking up large(r) batteries to various UPS models. I'd be interested to know what mods you made to achieve this configuration. I just installed new cells in my Smart-UPS 3000 (SU3000RM 5U). Made my own packs using cells from fleabay and the fuse & harness from the previous pack. The unit is charging them as I write this.
This unit also has an Anderson connector on the back for a "SU3000 48V, 816VAh" unit. Is this port something I could use for a (customized) external pack along the lines of what you did?
@@louistournas120 Yes. I normally replace the native battery wiring with longer heavier gauge (2 AWG with red or black insulation). This sometimes means removing and soldering new wires on the UPS motherboard. I drill holes and grommet them in the existing casing to bring the wires outside the enclosure. And I apply suitable connectors (typically crimp on ring connectors with red of black insulators) for the batteries used. The battery type I use is always identical chemistry to the OEM battery (Typically Sealed Lead Acid Deep Cycle). Such batteries normally have the same open circuit fully charged voltage and float voltage as the OEM batteries. This ensure that the native charger will operate fine to charge and float the battery as required. The main difference is that these larger capacity batteries will take more time to charge. For the larger UPS units, the battery can be 24 or 48 V. This is generally achieved by creating these battery banks using a series of identical (both in age and AH capacity) 12 V batteries wired in series.
@@andrewr7820 I have an older SU3000 wired with four 35AH 12 V deep cycle batteries. These batteries are configured as two banks of 24 V batteries matching the OEM setup. I also have an unmodified APC SMX2000L. This is a rack mounted unit. The base unit has one 120V battery module (10 X 12 V batteries and about 50 lbs.) that is integral to the UPS unit with an Anderson style connector. I also have two additional rack mounted (19” X 2U) battery modules. Each of these units holds two of the 120 V battery modules that connect internally with Anderson connectors. These units are back wired and can be daisy chained together with the unit closest to UPS unit jacking into a connector on the back of the base unit. See response above for notes on charging.
@deanrhodenizer938 Thank you for the extremely informative reply. I think I'll look at creating an external pack that connects to the rear (red) Anderson connector port of the SU3000, unless you think there's a better way to do it.
You can also use a power resistor and volt meter as a cheap and dirty alternative to a dedicated tester, ohms law will let you calculate the internal resistance. Even an automotive bulb will suffice as a go/no go test. Just needs to draw several amps from the battery so you can observe the voltage drop. For a capacity test run the battery down at its rated c rate ie 7ah at C20 = 350mA for 20 hours until whatever termination voltage is in the datasheet.
Subbed, fellow Canadian here. I have the same tester and same 9Ah batteries. At what resistance do you consider it failed? Also my 12v car battery stopped starting my Toyota hybrid and reads 8miloOhms. A new Costco battery gave me 4.5ish (in the cold 0C). Think the battery is bad or parasite load? Edit: Wow I think I used your pfsense videos a decade ago!!!! Bell 3gig fiber now!
Really appreciate the video, I am dealing with a stair chair that is running slow. The thing has a cove on it that prevents me from testing it under a load. Of course the charged voltage is acceptable but also no indication of the battery health. I have 7ah batteries on order but hate to replace them without knowing for sure. Currently the same tester is around $35, which is also the price of two 12v7ah batteries. So, I am ordering the Ancel because you have made it clear how to use it in this application and it will also be on hand to test car batteries as needed. I am also returning the 7ah batteries for 9ah replacements, also didn't know that the higher ah were acceptable.Thanks Mark
The demonstration of internal resistance measurement is excellent.
Also very helpful was your suggestion to buy the 9Ah vs. 7Ah battery.
We subscribed.
Best video I've seen on testing this style of battery. Off to buy one of those testers right now. Thank you.
Than you. Can measurements be made while the batteries are connected to the UPS system? Thank you again.
Fwiw, that tester has a great alternator tester function also.
Very glad to see this demonstration. I was at my computer when the city power went out and every piece of equipment that was connected to my UPS shut down.
1. How do you know that RBC battery is AGM? 2. How do you know the target internal resistance, or peak amps of the RBC battery? I can't find anything online about my RBC109 battery. I also contacted APC, and they couldn't provide me with a rated peak amps, or nominal internal resistance. Do you have a link with specs for APC RBC batteries?
You used 12Volt deep cycle battery 🔋 75A and get 9hour and more out ups
I got the same response from APC. I suppose The only way to really know the internal resistance is to buy one of their batteries and connect it to the meter. Of course, you still won't know the rated peak amps.
What an insanely helpful video. I bought an Ancel BST100 for ~£17 and followed your instructions - worked perfectly, and that model did remember the settings between uses as well.
APC UPS units tend to charge the batteries really fast, they will be back at full float voltage within 2 hours. They will cook the internal batteries pretty fast, just like most small UPS units do. I took those internal batteries out, and instead used an external deep cycle battery to replace it, giving both much longer running time, and also letting the battery run around 20C cooler than it was in the case, increasing it's operational life. Also went for flooded cell, instead of AGM or gel, so that the APC "cook it till full" charge method would not kill the cells prematurely, by boiling off all the water in the cell, now I can just check every 3 months and top up a little, keeping the battery running longer.
As well get a slightly better UPS than the cheapest ones, preferably a little oversize, and one that has monitoring capability on it. The larger units will have both a self test feature and monitoring, so you get a record of the battery health when connected to a computer and running the UPS software, or the open source version, which I do.
Quick tip to tell with those 9Ah and 7.2 Ah units what the current capacity is, is to look at the terminals, the high current capable ones have the 6.3mm spades, the low current capacity ones use a smaller 4mm spade, and thus are capable of supplying much less current reliably. The low current types though are the typical gate motor and alarm batteries. They do not work well in a UPS, where they have to provide 20A or more to the transformer when in use.
Beware though of unknown brand name batteries, if the 12V 7.2/9Ah brick is light weight, typically for these around 1.8kg for the good ones, a light one is a fake unit, with less than half the number of plates, and a fill of polystyrene making up the rest of the cell inside. Only caveat is that you get lithium iron batteries in this form factor, and those are very light compared to lead acid, but are clearly marked as lithium iron, and have a slightly different charge and float requirement, but are a near drop in replacement for low power loads.
All the small UPSes I've dealt with use 10W chargers, so they usually take more than 2 hours to charge. APC units in general all overcharge the batteries, and this is one of the many practises that I don't condone and one of the reasons why I don't buy APC units anymore. For large UPSes, I think your practices make sense since the overall cost is higher.
@@TheUbuntuGuy All the small ones I have gotten for free with dead batteries almost always use the main transformer to charge the battery, relying on the power mosfet body diodes to do the rectification. Lower cost, and high current charge till the battery is near float voltage. Only older ons have a separate small charge transformer and a regulator to charge the battery, and those almost always you see the regulator is well cooked from high power dissipation.
@@TheUbuntuGuy which brand(s)/model(s) would you recommend instead of APC for home/small business use?
Thanks. I bought that Ancel BA101 testing on Amazon for $40 CAD (Prime discount plus a coupon). Works great and takes the guess work out of figuring out what are bad batteries, good for smaller UPSs and good for high performance UPSs.
I bought four brand new 9Ah batteries locally from a reputable shop and they all test at 45mohm and fail self tests in the UPS. This video + the tester gave me the ammo to go back and tell them the batteries they sold me are garbage.
Video, I've been looking for something like this but I didn't know what to set my tester on. Mine's made by top-down, similar to what you got.
I had a 24-volt system and it said replace batteries. I took them to the battery supply place and they said they'd give me $0.50 for the pair of them. Two of these is nearly as heavy as my car battery, I was expecting more than that.
Anyhow I brought them home and one charges up to 12.78 volts. I took the Caps off the other one and it took quite a bit of water to bring it up to level. There are two possibly just one cells that aren't charging. I've got a battery desulfator and I've got that connected to it now to see if maybe it'll jump start the dead cell or cells.
I set my tester to SAE instead of CCA.
I reduce the amperage down to 40, as low as it would go.
It tested out one-hundred percent state of health and 97% of charge.
I'll have to dig up the specs on my battery and test it using your method.
Thanks again, very informative. 👍
Is there any ups on the market that tests the battery itself in a proper way ? I had several that lasted exactly one second under power interruption test , while the “battery bad” led wasn’t lit.
I purchased the Ancel and realized I may not be able to use it to test my small UPS battery - Power Sonic PS-1230 (12v 3.4Ah). The battery's rated maximum discharge amp (10sec) is 10.2 amperes. The minimum CA for the Ancel is 100Amps. Please help.
Question: OK let me get this right a lower m-ohms is better ? The higher resistance number or m-ohms the closer it is to end of life right ?
I use these for kayaking to power a small fish finder so I only need 5 hours tops and I have a bunch of old UPS batteries that still hold 5+ hours but are no good for the UPS. Now I have 4 old ones not sure what one is the best. I think now I do thanks for the help.
I have question, I purchased a brand new 12v 9ah lead acid battery, I charged it for a little bit and then used it just a little bit, it was not fully charged, is that bad, could I have damaged the battery and it’s performance
I have a Minute man Enterprise E2000RTXL2U that has six BB Battery BP7-12. Two of the batteries test bad. Can I buy 9AH replacements and mix them with the remaining 7AH batteries?
Seems to be mixed results when i try to search this.
Thank You
How can i find a data sheet/CA of a battery with unknown brand ??
Great video! I put some LIFEPO4 lithium ion batteries into my UPS about 4 months ago and my UPS shut down yesterday during a very rare brown out yesterday. Can your method be used to test those batteries? Would anything be done differently?
you wait till 5 minutes in to tell you if you have to buy a product... congratulations you beat the RUclips algorithm!
Will this battery tester work on 12v UPS batteries? also how much can the resistance be off ? and if it isn't what does that mean that it could be charged? with what a battery charger, shouldn't the bar charge the battery by itself? so when it doesn't work, hold charge after the bar is unplugged , isn't it just better to buy a new battery?
Hmmmm my battery checker can't get lower than 100 amps and my UPS battery has a MAX Discharge Current of 48A so what can I do now??
The specs for my battery (YUASA NP7-12) for Max. Discharge current is 40/75. What does that mean?
I bought a used one the surge side works but no lights come on..... Does it mean battery is dead??? Is this why lights aren't working???? Never used one I'm using for reef tank till I get a generator or better back up..
Glad to have you back! I was very excited for all your projects you had originally mentioned! Can't wait for more!
what does this battery charger reading CCA vs CA when i chose CA? maybe its defective idk
How exactly are you determining when to replace the battery? Is it only based on the resistance or are you also looking at the amperage the battery is still capable of and comparing it to the potential load on the UPS and determining based on that whether or not the performance of the battery is still acceptable?
Pretty much exactly that. If the IR of the battery is too high for the current required, it will be useless. Below that, it's runtime will be reduced. Exactly what IR you consider failed depends on the load and runtime requirements in the specific use case.
My ups is seems to be not sustaining charge (computer shutting down, and i also used a heatgun to test, lasted less than a minute on battery backup), i tested the batteries (2x) with a multimeter, and one is 12.66v and the other is 13.4v, i should replace the two batteries right?
Good to have you back. All your videos have been very interesting AND informative.
Hi there
I learned alot watching your video.
I have a Canadian Tire Eliminator Booster Pack with Air Compressor that is rated at 1400 Peak Battery Amps and 700 Crank Assist amps. I am trying to learn how to test the battery without having to dissasemble the unit.
First would you say this type of battery would be a AGM Flat plate battery?
Second question ... since the CA or Cranking Amp rating of the battery is needed to perform the test do you have any idea how I could get this CA rating information without taking the unit apart?
My idea was to get a tester like the one you used ... connect the leads to the booster pack leads, turn the power on to the leads and do the test.
Thank you for any information that you can share.
Thanks, Mark. Do you have any advice for when a cable won't come off the terminal no matter how hard I pull?
I have some UPS batteries I do not have a data sheet for. How can I determine the value to sue for "CA"? Thanks.
Very informative thank you.
I have a question that was not answered in the video even tho you gave out a ton of info.
My Cyber Power UPS say the battery is good & says it should power the device for 10 minutes, & is charged 100%, after removing the batteries they both read 13,54 vols (I don't have a tester like you show) When I ran the self test on the UPS it shuts down within one second even with nothing plugged into it, when I turn off the AC to the UPS plug, it immediately shuts down. The Batteries are 3 or maybe even 4 years old.
While everything says the batteries are good from the voltage on the multi-meter, to the readings on the UPS itself. The self test & AC power cutoff say they are bad.
Is it still very likely that the batteries are the problem? Or is it possible that the UPS is faulting out internally?
I already ordered 2 new batteries hoping it is the former, but 13,54 volts sure seems to indicate that the batteries are good.
I'll find out in a few days when my new batteries arrive ; )
Thanks in advance if you choose to respond 😎👍
In my experience, batteries never last in a UPS more than 3 years, and that's pushing it. Immediately after charging, they'll show a high voltage. You can let them then sit for a day, then check the voltage again - they'll likely drop down to under 11 volts.
Glad to see you posting a new Video!
I really like your videos and there aren't really any other youtube channels who do similar stuff in the style as you do.
Also, thanks for your wiki. I find myself using it very often to get new Ideas for my homelab :)
Do you have a link for those higher amperage Batteries?
Hi. I just purchased such a battery for my alarm system. The battery connectors are too wide for the wired terminals to connect to. Any suggestions?
Good video ! But I still question these testers. I cannot see them being able to provide the load needed for testing a car battery for example..
This is absolute great stuff. I was wondering why the UPS is rejecting the battery that when measured it tests fine but when I attach a newer batt it stops beeping. Now thanks to your great info, I should be able to tell why. Very useful stuff. Thanks for such great video.
If a UPS battery leaks, what would it look like? What color is the material?
Hey Mark, What if the same tester that you're using shows, "check connection" ??? on a 12VDC 3Ah battery attempting to test at "3. Out of Vehicle" and "2.AGM Flat Plate" with Cranking Amps just as you did. If I don't get an actual test result, I can't assume that the battery is bad. This is an actual APC battery pulled from an APC battery backup 350.
Great information. Sometimes finding the specifications on the battery is difficult or impossible to find because of the stickers on the battery or the manufacturer doesn't give all the specs. This video gives me enough to go on. Thanks!
Pull off the sticker. All the juicy bits are covered under that so they can force you to go to them for a replacement
So Mark, what would be an acceptable range tolerance for the measured internal resistance? +- 10%, 50% etc? I am reviving 18650 cells and purchased a meter that measurese intrnal resistance more or less accurately. I've foynd that around 24-25 milli ohms (or less) is acceptable. If the internal resistance hits 30 or above the cells have tested (using capacity tests etc.) bad.
I cannot seem to find UPS batteries that last more than 4-6 months. Years ago, I could buy those batteries and they would last 3-5 years. Can you , please, recommend a solution?
If you don have th milli ohms you can use the CA result. in this video it is 211 and 212. the slight change is probably due to the first reading heating the battery a bit which changed either the voltage or the ohms slightly
Just ordered that exact battery tester from Amz after watching this video. Was $32+tx USD, with 30% off, so not even $25 USD total to get this tomorrow. :)
Greetings.
Dear sir
I dnt have that type of meter.
Coyld u pls do a vedio, check battery condition using multimeter and known load.
Regards.
I bought a Konnwei KW208 car battery tester and it wouldn't read a 12v UPS battery but read my car battery just fine. I need to find another tester.
I had wondered if this was a standard size or whether the 7.2Ah were slightly smaller. Does this physical size have a name?
Good vid.
I bought an ANCEL BA301 as it had a few more features than the BA101.
- Retains the meter settings you set it to on last test ran.
- maybe the 101 has it, but the ability to print out the setting your meter detected on the battery-under-test.
- lifetime updates via USB cable
Anyway, I ran the test meter BEFORE topping off each cylinder with DISTILLED WATER.
- I THEN TOPPED OFF each cell with Distilled water. Ran battery tester tests.
- I connected a Battery Tender Trickle Charger Junior and let it run overnight.
-The next morning I disconnected the charger and reconnected the battery meter.
-Re-ran tests and impedance looked better, Status was now GOOD BATTERY.
NOTE: even though my charger was a lower end trickle charger, it is a good idea to leave caps off during charging. I had at least one cap emit a LOUD "POP"! Then it came off, flew a bit and landed on the top section of the battery,
So I removed the rest of the battery caps.
Reviewed all cylinders.
Cleaned all-cap areas with Q-TIPS, to remove excess acid/water.
Added water where needed.
So the battery was salvaged, Reinstalled into ups and ups unit works fine.
Battery meter status, after refilling with distilled water, changed to GOOD BATTERY.
Having a battery test meter that checks IMPEDANCE makes a big difference. A very handy piece of test equip to have onhand.
What is a “monoblock?” If it’s lead/acid and rated at 12 vdc, then its got 6 2.1 vdc cells. I don’t understand your term.
It doesn't play stereo! 😂
The battery industry calls the collection of 6 cells in one package a "monoblock".
While these battery testers might give you an idea they are mostly for starter batteries.(it even shows cold cranking amps) The correct procedure is with an analyzer and charge discharge cycles to determine the capacity or maybe a 1khz test rignal to check the internal resistance too. Deep discharge batteries has a lower discharge rate than starter batteries. These testers determine the resistance by connecting a high load and calculate from the amps derived from it. While it's ok for starter batteries it's not so good for deep discharge batteries like that and you may get false readings. Basically a multimeter will be just fine to determine if they are good from the stand by voltage if you don't have an analyzer.
Thanks Mark, I wondered how to set up my car battery tester to do my ups batteries. Now I know and it works great. Thanks.
I have similar meter for car batteries and I never thought to test UPS batteries wit it. That is very useful video!. Thanks a lot.
Very Good explanation,
I want to know the result from quick test menu? I can enter Ah rating there.
So if you have the data sheet, can you just measure internal resistance and know from there (and skip the tester)?
To measure the internal resistance you have to apply a load and measure the voltage drop and current draw. if you divide the voltage drop by the current draw you get the internal resistance of the battery. You can't just check its internal resistance with a volt meter.
Great video thanks. I don't recommend swapping batteries with the power connected though. There are live connections inside and with some UPSs the battery terminals are at mains potential to ground.
Can I use batric ups100 deep cycle battery for my trolling motor
APC RBC55 is a VRLA battery, 17Ah, 12VDC; I cannot find the discharge rate on any datasheets. I would guess the "CA" is higher than 135, but cant figure it out for sure, Anyone else maintaining these? Thanks.
Replacement I found: Maximum Discharge Current 270A
Would this type of test work for lithium ion batteries? I’ve read that the internal resistance for lithium ion batteries stays consistent throughout its life
Thanks for the video. Good suggestion on how to test UPS batteries. I know I get errors on my UPS units alot.. even after replacing the batteries after a short while. Having a little trouble with the Ancel BST100 tester I just picked up. Sometimes it says CHECK CONNECTIONS. But the seem pretty solid. Screen is on and solid. Other times it says the resistance is 0. That can't be right I assume. Ever run into this? Did I just get a bad tester?
Thanks for this video Mark. I picked up an Ancel BA301 and it works great! Also, this model remembers the CA setting between sessions. Great little unit. Btw- speaking of trash batteries, I measured a defective one at 194.42 mOhm 😀
so i have this kind of nice multimeter that has the little resistance symbol, which im guessing means when i switch it to that, it measures resistance. does that work as well? does it apply a small load to test the resistance like the battery tester? thanks!
Can i hook up a car battery 12V, 100 Ah in order to have a longer discharge time when original battery was only 7 or 9 Ah? Is the electronics going to be ok and just recahrge time is going to be longer or it will burn my UPS?
Yes, you can, but never do it. The car batteries are venting gases and dangerous for indoor use. Especially during the charging cycle. If you planning for prolong power outage that can't be handled by UPS itself it is better and more efficient to get portable gas generator. You will need to take care of exhaust gases. www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-use-a-generator/
Good Stuff :-) Just replaced a 6 pack of batteries and I'm almost certain that 5 out of 6 are still good. Ordered one of these testers
Very good video! I have a ton of old batteries that needs to be checked, i just have a question. Do i need to charge the batteries to 100% before i test?
Thanks!
Brother ,, what is the correct IR value of a 7 ah ,12 v shield lead acid battery
Do I have to unplug battery from system of batteries in order to test it?
Great video. UART, micro controller, BAUD rate. That takes me back in time. Thanks.
If you're counting, I'm interesting in any future videos involving you trying to automate or mess with the USB port of that battery tester. Thanks for the helpful info.
If IR value is vary then ... battery is good or bad
I don't even have a ups, but still find your video very interesting. Start uploading more frequently though.
Does the battery have to be fully charged before testing ?
Hi Mark. Brand new 12v 9AH i just picked up are measuring around 20-21 resistance. What resistance do you personally decide to replace a UPS battery? I have some of the same batteries measuring 27-28 resistance now and they are getting long in the tooth. Thanks for the great pointer about the car battery tester. I have the Foxwell and it works great! BTW the new 9AH are measuring right around 165 CA.
Thanks you, very helpful to be able to be able to test the UPS batteries, better than guessing! I went with the Ancel BT500 that uses a smart phone app via bluetooth, upsides are; can define batteries (for which it retains the settings), keeps all previous reports and lets you send them to text, email, print, etc... and the unit is very compact.
Excellent video. Very user-oriented information. Nicely done.
and one thing you didn't mention is that Lead acid batteries don't like to be discharged all the way
hello. can I replace my UPS's batteries with a Lithium instead of lead acid type?
No it will kill them as they will be constantly at 100% charge
Hey Mark, do I need to charge the battery completely before testing? I just ordered a BST200, hopefully that works just as well.
how much voltage need to recharge battery alone?
its been a while. Good to see you back
TU...perfect video. Didn't know what amp to select for this type of battery. I have the exact same tester and tested exactly same type battery.
Glad to see you back
Great to see you back!
I like the videos you make and I am happy to see you making videos again
I'm glad I found this video. I have to start testing ups batteries for my work. Great video thanks for making it!!!!