Some time ago, I did a double-sided project in VCarve with registration pins. This is when I thought, 'Hmm, should be possible to turn the workpiece in 4 or 5 steps for a 360° design.' Cool to see you did exactly that!
Yes, watched the taped version of Mark's episode. Dennis, you truly have an insane talent and see you do it on a low $$$ budget. Wish you would go back and start making videos and showcase your talent. As a fairly new CNC enthusiast, I love using the power of the mind before applying it to the machine. Now going to do a marathon and watch rest of your videos.
Great Video, Dennis! I've been doing Home CNC since 2005. I've built a 2'x4' router, and plan on building a larger one at some point. Nice work, and a great tutorial on machining 360 Degree/4-sided tool paths.
Glad to inspire, Joe! I started with CNC at the very end of 2018, so you are well ahead of me with years of experience. I'm confident that you will get your super-sized CNC up and running; good luck with your project!
Happy to inspire and to give others new ways to get the most out of their machine. And I'm curious about those dislikes too. :) It's fine. You can't please everyone.
Hello... I am new to cnc. Am very impressed with what you do with cnc, especially lock and key. Needless to say you are expert. Can anyone use lock and key technique with ordinary 1325 cnc machine.
Great work! When the CNC machine is working for hours are you near the machine so that if anything goes wrong you can switch it off? Of do you just let it run over night?
I definitely don't dare to let it run overnight. But I don't have the patience to sit next to it for hours either. I do check in on it every now and then, and can usually hear it as background noise when I'm in my house. So if the humming sound is suddenly off, there's something wrong, and I rush to the shed in my backyard to stop it. I've had several incidents, such as a broken 1/8 bit, a belt that snapped, and those kind of things.
fantastish werk Dennis, kan mischien eens uitlegen hoe je in vcarve desktop je 3d modellen importeerd en klaar maakt en hoe je je toolpaths opzet vriendelijke dank peter
Bedankt voor je lovende woorden! Vetric heeft een serie hele duidelijke video's waarin alles stap voor stap wordt uitgelegd. Neem eens een kijkje op hun website: www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-desktop?
Hello, I’m following this as a guide for my own 4 sided project. So I’m wondering why you can’t import the model to vcarve and set it to cut half the model. Then rotate it 4 times.
Good question! Primarily, because not everyone can afford VCarve, whereas Meshmixer is free. This technique does not require you to use VCarve, as the final model created in Meshmixer is ready to go in any CAM software. Furthermore, as far as I know, you cannot create sloped limit planes in VCarve, which means that you'd be doubling your machining time, as you're carving a lot of air. Hope this clarifies.
@@dennisvanhoof9958 thank you for the speedy reply! Very good point about carving air. With the meshmixer plane slicing that you do, is offsetting the stepover necessary? How do you match the stepover in vcarve when you set up your toolpaths? I think I’m missing something and I don’t want to rotate and realize the corners don’t line up.
@@Glop648 I'm not exactly sure I understand your question. Once I've created the 3D model, I use the same principles as I would for any 3D model that I import in VCarve.
Ah yes, I made that thing a long time ago already, before I started making videos on RUclips. I use drawer slides, square tubes and lots of bolts. Sorry, but I don't plan on remaking that thing for a RUclips video.
Hi Dennis, your works and technique all are fantastic, and really creative. I would like to start 3D wood engraving and the first thing is machine. I was thinking about Shark or Avid, which are relatively expensive machines. Do you suggest me to buy a Shapeoko or its new pro version? Do you have another brand in your mind that you wish you knew before buying Shapeoko? Thank you! and continue your great work.
Hi Ashfin, I suggest you browse for some different machines and read the reviews that you can find online, so that you can pick the CNC that is the best for what you plan to do. I own only a Shapeoko and a BobsCNC, so I can't give you any advice on other machines. The Shapeoko is quite a capable machine, as you can see in my videos, and it is good for everything that I want to do. BobsCNC is half the price, but not as sturdy, and has quite a bit of flex, so I converted that machine to a LASER CNC. BobsCNC is a nice beginners machine to get familiar with the process of CNC routing, but you'll need to go for a better machine if you plan to do work that is more strenuous on the CNC.
Another great video Dennis-san! I ordered my XXL today and I'm excited to get started! Do you normally run your machine with a shopvac attached? How dusty does your shed get? I'm already drawing up plans for my enclosure.
Thanks, Will! I run my jobs with a Dust shoe whenever possible. But for some of the large 3D projects, it's not really of any use; especially with my rotary setup, as the dust just escapes downwards into the hole in the CNC bed. I don't use an enclosure, as my main concern is the dust clogging up the belts and rails; I've lost some projects due to a slipping belt, so for these kind of jobs, I need to regularly pause the carving process to vacuum and clean the moving parts as much as possible. An enclosure might make things worse, as the dusty air just gets circulated. Besides, I don't mind my shed getting dusty.
Does the overcut you mention at 1:20 (due to the bullnose tool) help to create a smoother machined line after rotating the wood? I want to try to cut a human face with high detail/tiny tool and wonder how the details will be preserved. I might try 90 degrees of rotation at 45 degrees/rotation since the back of the head is not important. Thoughts?
Ah yes, good question. You are right about that "smoother" edge, for a technical reason. I'll try to explain (difficult without pictures): The need for an overcut depends a bit on the type of software that you use to create the tool paths. I use VCarve, and that software has the option to add an overcut distance at the exact depth of the automatically generated (horizontally flat) limit planes, as the tip of the ball nose would otherwise stop as soon as it reaches that limit plane depth. But since the bit has a ball-shaped nose, the sides are rounded towards the tip, which means that you will never be able to get that last bit of stock removed from the bottom corner (you can't fit a ball all the way into a square corner). To overcome this, you need to cut a bit deeper so that the straight side of the ball nose bit reaches that point; that extra depth is the radius (half the diameter) of the ball nose tip. But since I could not make use of the limit plane that is automatically generated by VCarve (because I created diagonal limit planes at 45 degree angles, for a combined 90 degrees), I had to artificially add this overcut distance, which I had to do in Meshmixer. Meaning that those diagonal limit planes need to be slightly lower than when dividing the shape into 4 quadrants (that is at least the radius deeper, going straight down). I hope this clarifies. Note that I also plan to make a head some time. I have a few other projects lined up, so it will take me some time to get to it (probably several months, considering how difficult and complicated my projects tend to be). In the meantime, I think that you can experiment a bit with this video as well as my latest female torso video (ruclips.net/video/8qZ6xDg9TWU/видео.html) to help you in the right direction. But if you use a fine-tipped ball nose bit (less than 1/8 of an inch), then the imprecision of your setup will probably be worse than the carving scars (that's how I call those lines at the edges where two-sided carves meet),a nd you'll have to do some manual clean up anyway. Hope this helps!
@@dennisvanhoof9958 It does help, thank you! I'm anxious to put together my SO Pro XL CNC and get back into this hobby. My old Shapeoko 3 has been ignored for four years. I had so many issues with a lot of things, I found I didn't want to find the time to dive in deeper. But I do now. And the tools the Pro comes with will help overcome my lack of craftsmanship. Thank you for again for all you have shared.
@@coulterjb22 Good luck, and don't be afraid to make mistakes (I make lots of them, and I learned more from those mistakes than from learning how to do it right).
They are magnificent: very very beautiful. But what is the sound? What do the virtuosos think? In any case: Bravo and Thank you! ***/*** Ils sont magnifique: très très beau. Mais quel en est la sonorité? Qu'en pense les virtuoses? En tout cas: Bravo et Merci!
@@dennisvanhoof9958 ***/*** J'e trouve vos violons magnifique. Toutefois depuis que j'ai écouté sur RUclips Janine Jansen et la sonorité sans égale de son stradivarius, je suis devenu un peu difficile et sélectif sur la sonorité des violons. Je souhaite de tout cœur que l'on puisse recréer des violons moderne, qui ait cette même qualité de son. En tout cas vous faites un travail magnifique. Vraiment j'admire et j'encourage. Je vous dis Bravo! Et Merci!
@@dennisvanhoof9958 I find your violins magnificent. However since listening to Janine Jansen on RUclips and the unparalleled tone of her stradivarius, I have become a bit picky and selective about the tone of the violins. I hope with all my heart that we can recreate modern violins, which have this same quality of sound. In any case, you are doing a magnificent job. Really I admire and encourage. I say Bravo! And thank you!
I'm sorry to disappoint you, but I don't sell these. This project was just to develop the technique and process for making the scroll of my violins: ruclips.net/video/5iP2bkFUj94/видео.html
I'm sorry, but I only share files of the projects I have made available as DIY projects (for instance, the sea shell box: ruclips.net/video/BXWihtBl9x0/видео.html).
Thank you for your kind words! I rarely make my artwork available for sale, but I have the final versions of these violins for sale on Etsy: - Fuoco www.etsy.com/TopoArts/listing/1104584282/violin-fuoco-fire-made-out-of-olive-wood?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1636606095230 - Aria www.etsy.com/TopoArts/listing/1104576036/violin-aria-air-made-out-of-olive-wood?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1636606160852 - Terra www.etsy.com/TopoArts/listing/1104547692/violin-terra-earth-made-out-of-olive?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1636606182760 - Acqua (SOLD; no longer available)
I finally have access to a CNC.
Can't wait to try this technique ❤.
Thanks Dennis 🙏
Some time ago, I did a double-sided project in VCarve with registration pins. This is when I thought, 'Hmm, should be possible to turn the workpiece in 4 or 5 steps for a 360° design.' Cool to see you did exactly that!
Awesome work. Thank you for showing
This video/technique was being raved about over on Mark Lindsay’s channel the other day. You have a lot of fans, buddy!
Thank you for your kind words! :)
Yes, watched the taped version of Mark's episode. Dennis, you truly have an insane talent and see you do it on a low $$$ budget. Wish you would go back and start making videos and showcase your talent. As a fairly new CNC enthusiast, I love using the power of the mind before applying it to the machine. Now going to do a marathon and watch rest of your videos.
Nicely presented.
Your professorial delivery is hypnotic. I come here to be hypnotised.
Your CNC toolpath design was ingenious, I learnt a lot, I have been trying to work out a fail safe way to carve four sided for some time now.
Fantastic idea your project's are always top notch.
That is amazing, Dutch Master. I just bought a Shapeoko 3xxl and have thought about creating Corinthian columns. Thanks for sharing.
Go for it! :)
Absolutely a ninja with the cnc and programs. Love your work. And your videos. Thanks for the inspiration
Another great video! Kind of refreshing to see your videos pop up in the RUclips feed
Great Video, Dennis! I've been doing Home CNC since 2005. I've built a 2'x4' router, and plan on building a larger one at some point. Nice work, and a great tutorial on machining 360 Degree/4-sided tool paths.
Glad to inspire, Joe! I started with CNC at the very end of 2018, so you are well ahead of me with years of experience. I'm confident that you will get your super-sized CNC up and running; good luck with your project!
Wat een mooi project, dank voor het delen van je kennis!
Love your ingenuity! Also, thats what I say all the time, " the cracks and bubbles add to the look!!!!"
Almost like petrified wood, very interesting.
Amazing video!
bloody clever, thank you
Great video and impressive work, keep it up.
Great video. Love watching your cool techniques
And the MAN hits back 😬.
Great content as always.
learnt a ton. what a helpful video. however I really want to know these 3 people who disliked that video. I have couple questions to them :)
Happy to inspire and to give others new ways to get the most out of their machine. And I'm curious about those dislikes too. :) It's fine. You can't please everyone.
They are six of them now.
Brilliant!
Great Video. I had no idea this was possible. Thank You.
yay! love it! thank you.
Hello... I am new to cnc. Am very impressed with what you do with cnc, especially lock and key. Needless to say you are expert.
Can anyone use lock and key technique with ordinary 1325 cnc machine.
Sorry, but I do not know what 1325 is. You can use the Lock & Key technique with any CNC machine, as it is not dependent on the type.
Another technique to my kit. Thanks!!
Great work! When the CNC machine is working for hours are you near the machine so that if anything goes wrong you can switch it off? Of do you just let it run over night?
I definitely don't dare to let it run overnight. But I don't have the patience to sit next to it for hours either. I do check in on it every now and then, and can usually hear it as background noise when I'm in my house. So if the humming sound is suddenly off, there's something wrong, and I rush to the shed in my backyard to stop it. I've had several incidents, such as a broken 1/8 bit, a belt that snapped, and those kind of things.
fantastish werk Dennis, kan mischien eens uitlegen hoe je in vcarve desktop je 3d modellen importeerd en klaar maakt en hoe je je toolpaths opzet vriendelijke dank peter
Bedankt voor je lovende woorden! Vetric heeft een serie hele duidelijke video's waarin alles stap voor stap wordt uitgelegd. Neem eens een kijkje op hun website: www.vectric.com/support/tutorials/vcarve-desktop?
Hello, I’m following this as a guide for my own 4 sided project. So I’m wondering why you can’t import the model to vcarve and set it to cut half the model. Then rotate it 4 times.
Good question!
Primarily, because not everyone can afford VCarve, whereas Meshmixer is free. This technique does not require you to use VCarve, as the final model created in Meshmixer is ready to go in any CAM software.
Furthermore, as far as I know, you cannot create sloped limit planes in VCarve, which means that you'd be doubling your machining time, as you're carving a lot of air.
Hope this clarifies.
@@dennisvanhoof9958 thank you for the speedy reply! Very good point about carving air. With the meshmixer plane slicing that you do, is offsetting the stepover necessary? How do you match the stepover in vcarve when you set up your toolpaths? I think I’m missing something and I don’t want to rotate and realize the corners don’t line up.
@@Glop648 I'm not exactly sure I understand your question. Once I've created the 3D model, I use the same principles as I would for any 3D model that I import in VCarve.
I would like to see how you built your bandsaw jig for splitting wood. I didn't see one posted so far...
Ah yes, I made that thing a long time ago already, before I started making videos on RUclips. I use drawer slides, square tubes and lots of bolts. Sorry, but I don't plan on remaking that thing for a RUclips video.
Hello Dennis. Excellent work and technique; is the olive wood violin offered for sale. David in Miami
Thank you! Please send me a message to contact@topoarts.com
Hi Dennis, your works and technique all are fantastic, and really creative. I would like to start 3D wood engraving and the first thing is machine. I was thinking about Shark or Avid, which are relatively expensive machines. Do you suggest me to buy a Shapeoko or its new pro version? Do you have another brand in your mind that you wish you knew before buying Shapeoko? Thank you! and continue your great work.
Hi Ashfin, I suggest you browse for some different machines and read the reviews that you can find online, so that you can pick the CNC that is the best for what you plan to do. I own only a Shapeoko and a BobsCNC, so I can't give you any advice on other machines. The Shapeoko is quite a capable machine, as you can see in my videos, and it is good for everything that I want to do. BobsCNC is half the price, but not as sturdy, and has quite a bit of flex, so I converted that machine to a LASER CNC. BobsCNC is a nice beginners machine to get familiar with the process of CNC routing, but you'll need to go for a better machine if you plan to do work that is more strenuous on the CNC.
Another great video Dennis-san! I ordered my XXL today and I'm excited to get started! Do you normally run your machine with a shopvac attached? How dusty does your shed get? I'm already drawing up plans for my enclosure.
Thanks, Will! I run my jobs with a Dust shoe whenever possible. But for some of the large 3D projects, it's not really of any use; especially with my rotary setup, as the dust just escapes downwards into the hole in the CNC bed. I don't use an enclosure, as my main concern is the dust clogging up the belts and rails; I've lost some projects due to a slipping belt, so for these kind of jobs, I need to regularly pause the carving process to vacuum and clean the moving parts as much as possible. An enclosure might make things worse, as the dusty air just gets circulated. Besides, I don't mind my shed getting dusty.
Does the overcut you mention at 1:20 (due to the bullnose tool) help to create a smoother machined line after rotating the wood?
I want to try to cut a human face with high detail/tiny tool and wonder how the details will be preserved.
I might try 90 degrees of rotation at 45 degrees/rotation since the back of the head is not important.
Thoughts?
Ah yes, good question. You are right about that "smoother" edge, for a technical reason. I'll try to explain (difficult without pictures):
The need for an overcut depends a bit on the type of software that you use to create the tool paths. I use VCarve, and that software has the option to add an overcut distance at the exact depth of the automatically generated (horizontally flat) limit planes, as the tip of the ball nose would otherwise stop as soon as it reaches that limit plane depth. But since the bit has a ball-shaped nose, the sides are rounded towards the tip, which means that you will never be able to get that last bit of stock removed from the bottom corner (you can't fit a ball all the way into a square corner). To overcome this, you need to cut a bit deeper so that the straight side of the ball nose bit reaches that point; that extra depth is the radius (half the diameter) of the ball nose tip. But since I could not make use of the limit plane that is automatically generated by VCarve (because I created diagonal limit planes at 45 degree angles, for a combined 90 degrees), I had to artificially add this overcut distance, which I had to do in Meshmixer. Meaning that those diagonal limit planes need to be slightly lower than when dividing the shape into 4 quadrants (that is at least the radius deeper, going straight down).
I hope this clarifies. Note that I also plan to make a head some time. I have a few other projects lined up, so it will take me some time to get to it (probably several months, considering how difficult and complicated my projects tend to be). In the meantime, I think that you can experiment a bit with this video as well as my latest female torso video (ruclips.net/video/8qZ6xDg9TWU/видео.html) to help you in the right direction.
But if you use a fine-tipped ball nose bit (less than 1/8 of an inch), then the imprecision of your setup will probably be worse than the carving scars (that's how I call those lines at the edges where two-sided carves meet),a nd you'll have to do some manual clean up anyway.
Hope this helps!
@@dennisvanhoof9958 It does help, thank you!
I'm anxious to put together my SO Pro XL CNC and get back into this hobby. My old Shapeoko 3 has been ignored for four years.
I had so many issues with a lot of things, I found I didn't want to find the time to dive in deeper. But I do now.
And the tools the Pro comes with will help overcome my lack of craftsmanship.
Thank you for again for all you have shared.
@@coulterjb22 Good luck, and don't be afraid to make mistakes (I make lots of them, and I learned more from those mistakes than from learning how to do it right).
Brilliant
With this way of carving would you be able to do a wrap-around spiral?
Yes, and much more complicated things too.
amazing
Can you carve a bokken with a CNC?
Actually, a katana has crossed my mind. But I have so many other projects lined up in que that I don't know when I'll get to it yet.
They are magnificent: very very beautiful. But what is the sound? What do the virtuosos think? In any case: Bravo and Thank you! ***/*** Ils sont magnifique: très très beau. Mais quel en est la sonorité? Qu'en pense les virtuoses? En tout cas: Bravo et Merci!
I think this comment was meant for my violin art projects.
@@dennisvanhoof9958 ***/*** J'e trouve vos violons magnifique. Toutefois depuis que j'ai écouté sur RUclips Janine Jansen et la sonorité sans égale de son stradivarius, je suis devenu un peu difficile et sélectif sur la sonorité des violons. Je souhaite de tout cœur que l'on puisse recréer des violons moderne, qui ait cette même qualité de son. En tout cas vous faites un travail magnifique. Vraiment j'admire et j'encourage. Je vous dis Bravo! Et Merci!
@@dennisvanhoof9958 I find your violins magnificent. However since listening to Janine Jansen on RUclips and the unparalleled tone of her stradivarius, I have become a bit picky and selective about the tone of the violins. I hope with all my heart that we can recreate modern violins, which have this same quality of sound. In any case, you are doing a magnificent job. Really I admire and encourage. I say Bravo! And thank you!
@@yves-noel-mariegonnet1043 Thank you. Merci beacoup!
Do you sell these? Thakz sweet work
I'm sorry to disappoint you, but I don't sell these. This project was just to develop the technique and process for making the scroll of my violins: ruclips.net/video/5iP2bkFUj94/видео.html
Boa noite ,como conseguir o código dessa cnc para fazer violino
I'm sorry, but I only share files of the projects I have made available as DIY projects (for instance, the sea shell box: ruclips.net/video/BXWihtBl9x0/видео.html).
Great video! Can you sell me some?
Greets
Thank you for your kind words!
I rarely make my artwork available for sale, but I have the final versions of these violins for sale on Etsy:
- Fuoco
www.etsy.com/TopoArts/listing/1104584282/violin-fuoco-fire-made-out-of-olive-wood?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1636606095230
- Aria
www.etsy.com/TopoArts/listing/1104576036/violin-aria-air-made-out-of-olive-wood?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1636606160852
- Terra
www.etsy.com/TopoArts/listing/1104547692/violin-terra-earth-made-out-of-olive?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1636606182760
- Acqua (SOLD; no longer available)
It's called a "Doric Collumn"
Column
Its corinthian
You need a bigger shed