CNC multi-inlays with a V-prism technique - Carving a geisha scroll with the Shapeoko
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- Опубликовано: 1 апр 2021
- By Dennis Van Hoof, from Top o' Arts (topoarts.com).
This video shows the step-by-step process of an optimized CNC V-prism technique for very precise multi-inlays. As an example, a Geisha is carved on a 3D scroll, using 4 different types of unstained woods with distinct natural colors.
Software used:
- Meshmixer to create the 3D violin model
- Vectric VCarve Desktop to generate the tool paths
- UGS Platform to send the Gcode to the CNC
Types of wood and epoxy used:
- American Holly
- Hard Maple
- Padauk
- Olive
- Crystal Clear epoxy resin (from the Epoxy Resin Store)
- Carbon-steel Mica powder
CNC router bits used:
- 1-1/8 inch surfacing bit: Amana Tool #45525
- 1/4 end mill: Amana Tool #46577-K
- 1/8 end mill: Amana Tool #46127-K
- 1/4 down-cut bit: Whiteside #RD2100
- Straight 1/4 ball nose bit: Whiteside #RU2075RN
- Straight 1/8 ball nose bit: Amana Tool #46295
Referenced video of the Frog on a Leaf: "Carving a frog on a leaf - CNC router technique with vertical tabs"
• Carving a frog on a le...
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wow. 26.15 just going to hope for the best after so much time and effort. what an amazing project
Love it when people (that know what they are doing) take the time to explain shit like this!
Im personally in the know to a degree, I work a bit differently, whit a completely different CNC
Thanks for making these videos it's that much less troubleshooting I have to do when I work on a similar project!
I've used cnc's for years so I can attest that your level of technical prowess is well above the average machinist. Your attention to detail and the forethought to those details is incredible. Great final piece as well!
Thank you! It means a lot to hear this from a seasoned expert. :)
One of the best cnc inlay videos... That geisha is amazing
Thank you! :)
Amazing detail in the video instruction. Will belong while before I'm that confident to attempt this level of inlay
Really cool techniques you used. That came out fantastic!
Thank you! :)
That blows my mind. Well done!
Thank you! I aim to inspire. :)
Bravo! nice piece of art. Thanks for the tips.
Did you ever verify that the CNC bed was the culprit? I would also have been suspicious of the planer snipe. Otherwise, the entire project was brilliant! And so far over my head, and couldn't begin to do it! But I so-o-o much appreciate your explanation of how the cutting depth and flat depth work! I'm new to VCarve, and nobody else I've watched has explained how and why it works! And I couldn't figure out for myself! I now understand that the software calculates where the bit needs to be to cross the vector at a specific depth! With that understanding, I can properly plan my inlays based on the inlay's thickness. I get it now ! ! ! ! ! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU ! ! ! ! !
Beautiful work! 👍
I enjoy watching your videos. I hope you produce more. I am just getting into CNC, but I have been doing 3D printing for some time. I am a physicist and really appreciate your attention to detail. This inlay video is exactly what I needed. I can't find any other youtube videos that reach your level of expertise and explanation.
Breathtaking
Stunning work...Thank you Dennis for sharing.
Great video, very well explained. I learned a great deal.
I found your channel a month ago and forgot to sub. I spent so long trying to find it again. Glad I'm here, I'm loving the information and your work. Thank you for sharing.
I just made my first cut on my homemade Lowrider V2 yesterday, and as much as most of what you're saying goes over my head, I still enjoy seeing your process and learning little bits when I can
Happy to inspire! Your imagination is the only limit to what you can do. :)
You are a true craftsman and genius my friend! The end result was so crisp and detailed. Truly a work of art!
Thank you for your kind and encouraging words! :)
Thank you for this. It turned out awesome. I've got a lot to learn.
Happy to inspire! :)
As a woodworker sitting on the fence about getting a CNC, these videos are great. They are also very well written, edited, and presented.
Thank you! Maybe this will get you off that fence and back into your wood shop. :)
@@dennisvanhoof9958 yes Timothy, I agree. Let this be the trigger to go for it.
As a trained cabinet maker Ive also been sat on the fence with regards to getting a cnc so 11 months later have you added a cnc to your tool collection ?
@@justynpoppitt5987 Yes, I did. After much research I bought a OneFinitiy CNC. I have loved it. It both expands my conventional woodworking plus it opens doors to many new types of projects.
Thanks Timothy This will be the next addition to my tools 👌🏼
Awesome instructional video.Thank youuu!!
Quite a wonderful result from an extraordinary effort. It's all beyond my scope but appreciate your artistic and engineering skills.
Going to have to watch this again and take notes, but very impressed with your project. Having run into the issue of round vs square corners and also using V carve its great to see some options, thank you
Glad to hear my video is helpful! :)
That is awesome. We get our first CNC machine for the shop Tuesday so your videos are inspiring. Good job.
That's exciting! I'm sure you'll enjoy it. Just don't be afraid to make mistakes. It's the best way to learn. I still make tons of them all the time. :)
Beautiful!
Your creative ingenuity is outstanding💯
This was an incredible video. Also, the work of art you created. It's impeccable. Outstanding job
Thank you! :)
I watched your video and I drooled all over my tablet. That is really outstanding work and, even though you pointed out some issues, the results are fantastic.
I want my CNC artistic work to come up to your level but right now I am still a novice at inlay techniques.
Thank you for your kind and encouraging words! There is plenty of other stuff you can do with the CNC besides inlays. If you haven't done so already, go take a look at my channel videos to get some inspiration. I even have a few DIY projects with files that I made freely available for you to try. Enjoy, and thank you for watching! :)
Beautiful work..congratulations..
The result looks amazing, nice work!
Thank you for your kind words! :)
WOW!!!!!! This is craftmanship !!!!! Awesome! Thanks for the video!! Now I'm gonna go shoping for a CNC!!! :)
Thank you for your kind words!
Perfect video
Gosh, this is very impressive, and beautiful!
Very nice work. Thank you for all the details!
Dennis does it again... WOW just WOW.
An absolutely stunning project. And you had some ways to overcome some of the challenges that I experienced when trying to CNC both sides of things. I had given up on that, but I may try to use your techniques in the future and see if I can do what I need after all.
Go for it! :)
very useful tutorial, thanks!~
This is advanced 3 axis cnc'ing! Im impressed! :)
your ability far exceeds the quality of your tools Dennis, great job
amazing!
très beau travail
Parabéns pelo belo trabalho, obrigado.
Fantastic as usual!!
You are the best epoxy artist how to use epoxy with wood behind image !
Mistakes or not ...... That is one impressive job sir. Congrats to you. Liked and subscribed.
Lessons learned! :)
astonishing
i look forward to your uploads...your videos are entertaining and educational... thank you !!
Thank you! Making videos is a slow process, so I'm really challenging your patience. ;)
@@dennisvanhoof9958 quality is worth waiting for...keep up the good work and thank you for your efforts...i appreciate you.
So beautiful ! Well done ! 👍👍👍👍
Amazing, looks so good!
awesome work! With the CNC bed - make it out of a sacrificial wood, then run a couple of leveling passes on it with the CNC.
Yes, it is generally good practice for projects that require Z-accuracy to make a temporary spoil board. :)
And you sir are proof positive that just because a person has a CNC router (I do.), does not mean you automatically can make things of this caliber. It takes much more than just the tools. Nicely done....again. ~P
So true. People think CNC's are cheating, but that hasn't been my experience with it. It takes some major skills to pull this off.
Thank you! :)
Good job Dennis. You are a wicked woodworker ;-)
Thank you Staf! :)
Once again another great video, Dennis. I've done many v-carve inlays, back when we called it vinlay after the guy who first wrote up the procedures. I'll have to watch again because I've done some very intricate inlays with the standard techniques and I'm not sure I follow your logic, however, it is a beautiful design and execution and I love the finished project. Two thumbs up.
Thank you for your kind words! And feel free to ask critical questions, or provide constructive feedback. I'm always open to other people's feedback. :)
Your a wizard with the CNC, man. Thanks for the videos!
gorgeous!
In using a 15 degree vbit, make a clearance pass down to your plunge depth and then make your final pass starting at the plunge depth. (Ex: 0-10mm, 10-15mm) In the tool menu, reduce the plunge depth of the 15degree bit in order to force multiple passes. This process will help preserve fine detail.
Fine detail in hardwoods is easier using endgrain, but presents other problems.
Finally, you do beautiful work and you learn a lot by doung.
Thank you for sharing your insights! My experience is that 15 degree bit will make the sloped walls of fine details even thinner than a 60-degree V-bit would. While this is not a big issue with end grain (as you pointed out), carving grooves parallel to the grain with a narrow-angled V-bit will result in warping of those thin sloped "walls". I noticed that, even with a 60-degree V-bit, this can already become an issue (especially with softer wood species in the hardwood category).
And yes, I make lots of mistakes (and learn even more). :)
For what you're doing, 60degrees works, but l mainly do cutting boards and I need the depth of the inlay when doing fine lines. 60 degrees doesn't give me enough material in doing fine detail. Thanks for the feedback.
You are crazy talented. I own a CNC machine. New interest I have found. Things went over my head as I was watching the video but I really enjoy this video along with all the others you have made. You make it look easy.
Keep up the wonderful work. Wish I had that kind of talent
@@amosdevonish5767 Just don't be afraid to make mistakes; I make lots of them, and learn. :)
watching from Philippines, keep the videos coming!
I can appreciate the challenge. For my project I also wanted the final surface to be slightly below the upper surface of the female part so the blank female areas would not get dirty or damaged along the way, and the desired shape would be revealed during a final shaving pass at the end. Setting aside the practical aspect, getting it mathematically correct is an interesting puzzle.
Yes, it is a puzzle! I'm hoping that Vectric will make our lives a little easier by doing the math for us with and include a clean-up pass for the prism tool. :)
Dennis you are SO GOOD!
Thank you! :)
fantastic content! keep it up!
Fantastic work!
You're totally correct with the wood gluing time and glad you mentioned slow curing glue, it's a total game changer! I typically glue the pocket and glad you mentioned it.
I have found that with large inlays that a plastic spreader works better than a brush (I've done similar work stacking 8 or 9 layers). I've also used very heavy/flat objects to evenly distribute pressure when gluing like marble slabs and/or 5 gallon buckets as opposed to clamps.
Thank you for sharing your experience! This was my very first inlay ever! I usually find out how to do tings better by making mistakes. :) Putting heavy objects on the inlays crossed my mind. But, although the Shapeoko XXL is quite sturdy, the CNC bed is relatively weak (which they improved with their Pro version), and I'm afraid it may permanently bend the metal scaffolds underneath the MDF surface.
How long do you let the slow curing glue harden before surfacing the male back side? I noticed that, even the regular glue still had some sticky areas after 24 hours.
@Dennis van Hoof Understandable, I use a standard Shapeoko 3 with the aluminum bed along with the sacrificial MDF so I'm not worried about the weight, but I know you use yours for jigs and such so that's probably out of the question.
Wood glue definitely takes experience and mistakes (don't worry I make plenty!) I've found humidity severely effects drying time, glue like Titebond should set in about 24 hours, but sounds like you may need 48. If you're looking for very quick dry time/superior bonding on intricate or small areas you may want to try wood CA glue with an accelerator. They can come in handy needle tip applicators (again, for very small detailed areas).
@@LOBrien_ Thanks for the tips! I'll keep those in mind for my future projects. :)
@@dennisvanhoof9958 Damn! This was your first inlay. You'll be a Master Craftsman soon. Keep up the good work and great videos.
@@unclebob8746 Thank you for your kind and encouraging words!
Genious and well explained! Groeten vanuit Nederland :-) Altijd leuk en leerzaam!
For the super fine details , use endgrain of the wood. On endgrain you can do so amazing detail without breaking.
I have subscribed Bro !!
Thankyou
Holy cow!!
Great word. I would recommend a drum sander for the final cleanup process.. planers while great, can shred fine detail inlays...
Thanks for the tip! I had some minor chips torn out of the olive wood inlays from passing it through the planer. If only I could add yet another tool to my inventory... :)
@@dennisvanhoof9958 This is why you don't tell your significant other :) it mysteriously just shows up. The other option would be a helical cutter head to replace the straight blades in the planer, those tear out far less.
@@mrljvb Great tips! I suspect my wife does the same with dresses, shoes and purses; I get the impression that she wears something new every day. ;) I'll see if there is a helical cutter head available for my WEN planer.
I wrote my first comment before watching to the end, I use a disposable syringe with 1mm blunt needle for expoxy lines, I find that I can pretty well get to a point of no cleanup and a hairdryer will help draw out bubbles. Just a thought.
Great suggestions!
Bravo!
Heel mooi!
Interesting video. Have been experimenting with tiny inlays recently and had similar experiences with very hard wood (30 year old meranti).
The bed of your cnc is probably just fine, cutting and gluing the inlay changes the stress inside the wood which might cause it to bend a bit. Don't know the atmosphere in your shed but even having one side of the wood open to air while the other is clamped to the table a few days not being able to breathe might already result in enough moisture difference to explain the bending.
Good thinking! You are right that the wood will warp as soon as you make a cut; the more you shave off from 1 side, the more it will warp due to the release of stress and the loss of grain fibers maintaining a balance. However, I would think the CNC bed to minimize the warping as long as the stock is firmly clamped down.
I subbed for the violin but at this point I'm down for anything. You look very natural in front of the camera and your speech is very pleasant to listen to. Combine that with the craft and it's overal a very relaxing video to watch. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you for your kind words and sticking around! Yeah, the violins were just a few of my many different wood art creations.
I appreciate the inclusion of ancient Rome footage (4k, colourized, 60fps)
😳 WOW 🤙🍻
Hai sir how are you, your project is very good and Very nice sir 👍
Subbed
I enjoyed the video very much, but I'm still fuzzy on exactly what the use of the prism toolpath is doing different from the V-carve toolpath. There's a subtlety there that eludes me but seems rather important. I'll probably watch that section a couple more times and maybe look for another tutorial that perhaps makes that more clear (I watched that section about 3 times so far, but it seems fast to catch your point).
Thank you for your kind words and good question! Basically, VCarve currently doesn't have a way to setup tool paths for both the male and female. You'll have to do an aggressive plunge with your V-bit to get to the right depth. Also, when you're working with really thin lines, the old fashioned way will break these thin male lines. When I redesigned the process, I also took care of a few other things, like gluing space and a clean-up tool path for the prism (which is also not supported by VCarve). Lots of information to digest in a single view.
Phenomenal build! (If you *REALLY* want to go all-in, add a glue syringe to your CNC to automatically add *exactly* the amount of glue needed *exactly* where it is needed. :grin: )
And it would probably be fast enough to be done before the glue starts to dry too!!! :)
@@dennisvanhoof9958 Sooo... when can we expect a video showing it off? :grin:
Seriously, though, I got curious and started looking into it. Among the hits was this ingenious project that can either be handheld or mounted: ruclips.net/video/OUwQYAkBQWk/видео.html The description has links to the 2.0 version, the original forum thread on it, and a full kit that you can buy. You could even use it to place tiny bits of inlay!
How beautiful Dennis!!! Don't worry about the "haters" - it's great work. Do you use the V-prism also on the female pocket or just the male plug?
Thank you for your encouraging words! I'm not worried about the haters; if I wouldn't be able to handle those, then I shouldn't be posting videos. ;)
To answer your question: the females are always pockets, so you never need to use a prism shape for a female. Just use the built-in V-carve (with clean-up) tool of the Vectric software.
Dennis, another fantastic video. Having done lots of v-carve inlays, I'm very intrigued by the V-prism technique you describe here. I've watched your teaching session at the beginning a handful of times and I'm still struggling to replicate it. No fault of yours, to be sure - your explanation is very thorough.
Any chance you could share the .crv file of your logo? Would be very helpful to study it.
Also the project is incredible. Museum quality.
Hi Lane, thank you for your kind words! Please send me an e-mail with your request to: contact@topoarts.com
Brilliant. Far to Tech for me. Have you checked out Broinwood.
Very nice work as always. Sure wish you would offer the files.
I'm sorry, but I only share files of the projects I have made available as DIY projects (for instance, the sea shell box: ruclips.net/video/BXWihtBl9x0/видео.html).
Nice work, great video! one question: Could you not define your z-height 1.8mm higher and avoid having to grind the surface?
Thank you for your kind words! I'm not sure exactly which step you are referring to with "grind the surface"
@@dennisvanhoof9958 Between 7:07 and 7:22. you're shaving both the high part and the low part. But it is only a fraction of a mm so not consequential time wise... Also y math might be wrong.
There is one thing I would do different on the graphics side: Software is inherently awful when automatically tracing raster images (the image you started with) into vector (needed for the tool path). I use either Adobe Illustrator to manually trace, which can take time, or get vector art already made. All the corners and finer details tend to become blobs with automatic tracing, especially if the image is not high resolution.
REGARDLESS - DAMN! What great work. I just got my Shapeoko shipped from the US to my house in Costa Rica and will be pushing the envelope with inlays with your brilliant techniques.
@@hanaanrosenthal Ah yes, that shaving creates a small space for the glue.
Wow i love it
How long does it take to mashine it?
How many days you have to wait to hold this breathtaking piece of art in your talented hands?
Thank you! If you do not take into account the design (which takes many hours spread out over several days) and preparing of the materials, but only asking about the actual CNC hours/days, then a male carve takes about 1 to 3 hours each (depending on the size; padauk took much longer than the hard maple), including tool changes. These can all be done in 1 day. But each female carve was followed by gluing in the male inlay, which took a day to dry. Then the epoxy took 3 days to fully cure. So the CNC process takes about a week. Then the 3D scrolls another day. All in all, it took me about 3 weeks from beginning to end.
For sure is the CAM part in this kind of projects a timebandit😅
I havent done projects that took so much time
Respect for your patience
I love your projects and videos
Very nice, now do it the old fashion way...by hand 😉😊
No thanks! That's going to take me years. ;)
@@dennisvanhoof9958 I don’t blame you one bit, I tried it once and once was enough, my next job will be copper/silver wire inlay....
Hello Dennis. I’m glad I stumbled across your channel. I’ve been working on making end grain inlay cutting boards and have had the issue of some areas being too thin in the female pocket and when the male pocket is created it has gaps. I work primarily in inches, although I understand the metric system. Will converting the numbers in this video be enough or would you have the imperial equivalent? Would like to ask more detailed questions but not on this platform. Thanks for your time and your amazing work
Thank you for our kind words! Yeah, you can convert mm to inches, and it will work the same, as long as you use the bits with the angles and diameters shown in this video. If you plan to use different bits (I hear many woodworkers who do end-grain inlays using 15-degree-angled bits for extra deep inlays), then you'll have to redo all the math, as aspects, like the off-set trench, carving depths, inlay slopes, etc. will be different.
@@dennisvanhoof9958 I can definitely use the same bits and parameters as your video, I just personally like 30 degrees more than 60. I appreciate you taking the time and responding. Keep up the awesome work
@@CisnerosShop Yeah, 30 degrees and less might be better suited for end-grain and thicker stock; not so much for thinner boards and face or edge grain.
@@dennisvanhoof9958 I’ll rewatch your video until I get it all down in mm and figure out the math. Then might dive into converting it to 30 and maybe 15 degree. I’ll share with you my findings
@@CisnerosShop Hi Victor, I m also testing inlay technic with a 15 degree V-bit for high detailed pattern ( thin lines). Have you tested it with the math values for 15 degree? I m wondering how to include thé fact my 15 degree V bit has a flat tip of 0.5mm. An idea?
hi, nice video. Still, a bit confused with the tool passes.
just a quick question . I live here on the Netherlands, and I need a plainer more or less like yours. I tried on Gamma, and Praxis, but can't find it. where did you get it?
thanks and success with your channel .
Hi, I was born and raised in The Netherlands. I moved to California about 13 years ago, so I get my machines and tools from the local home improvement stores (Lowe's and Home Depot) as well as online (Amazon and Ebay or shops that sell online with shipping). I got my WEN planer from Amazon; not sure if they have a version for 220 V at 50 Hz with a Dutch plug, but you can check on the Dutch Amazon website. There should be plenty of benchtop planers from different manufacturers available.
@@dennisvanhoof9958 thanks. already sent.
@@joematarc5245 I just replied. Let's do the rest by e-mail.
😯
What brand of clear varnish did you use?
DEFT clear wood finish (it's actually lacquer).
@@dennisvanhoof9958 thanks! Semi gloss or satin?
@@kjohn5224 I don't remember exactly what I used for this piece. Probably Gloss.
what kind of wood would you recommend closest to white after all?
American Holly
@@dennisvanhoof9958 where to get it, where to buy it?
@@PSS_1 Etsy.
I'm left wondering how your technique compares to the Zank Inlay process and which is better/easier.
The Zank inlay is based on the aggressive plunge that I refer to at 1:25. I came up with a process to circumvent this. I dedicate the rest of my video to my prism technique. That's how the two technique compare.
@@dennisvanhoof9958 Thanks for the reply. I've seen another video about doing multiple passes with their V-bit at increasing depth to get around the issue with the deep plunge. It seems a simpler process but I need to watch both videos again ruclips.net/video/RY0zLv3wcyc/видео.html
I want this! Haha is it for sale? Do you have an Etsy page?
I'll take that as a compliment. :) Unfortunately, I don't offer many of my projects for sale. I used to have an active Etsy page, but now I only maintain my topoarts.com website. I find this is the best way to keep woodworking as a hobby that I enjoy, instead of it becoming a job and a duty. I do display some of my work at exhibitions every now and then; but unfortunately the corona pandemic has put that on hold too.
Encore une demoiselle de Parme !
If it's to smal that it wil splinter use a 15 degree v bit, I use it al te time and it's better because you have more material that you can squeeze together
Thanks for the suggestions! I thought about that, but if I would use a 15 degree bit, I would have to modify the female tool paths too, change the carving depth limits, and the offset trench, etc. It would become even more complicated if I would 2 different kinds of V bits; a 60 and 15 degree bit for different carves. The RUclips video became quite long already with just a single V-bit. :)
Leaving space for glue between the layers isn't entirely how the glue is mean to be used. I understand though that the edges are the part that is the most important and that they need to meet, so an extra gap beneath is necessary.
Correct! The gap underneath is a compromise, as you'll never be able to squeeze out that much excess glue and air from the pocket, once you insert the male inlay, as it is kind of like closing the lid of a jar.
good work, your husband should be proud
Assumptions when judging a book by its cover? LOL
You should watch mtmwood. He does lots of 3D designs with his cnc and shows most of the steps.
Hi , I'm trying to find someone who can make me a American flag with an eagle on it. Is that something you can do?
I'm sorry, but I don't do custom projects.
Insanity...wish there was a way to take a class that teaches this stuff
I guess my videos are the online classes you are looking for, as they are for free, and you can watch them over and over again. :) Feel free to ask questions for clarification.
You just DID. ;)