I'm looking forward to Brett doing many more Tech Tip Tuesdays. In every interview, he gets straight to the point, is clear in his explanation, and can draw from his incredible success as a racer. Definitely the perfect guy for the job.
Tom Bailey went off the end of the track here recently, pretty much lost his brakes going 230 and didn't have his chutes activated, he went about 400 ft into the Gravel Pit
As Brett said Brake fluid is hygroscopic. So when bleeding your brakes Always make sure you refill you system with a bottle that is brand new and unopened. Also check the seals on your master cylinder cap to stop moisture getting into the system. working on road race cars I have tested "new" brake fluid that was in a bottle from my race trailer. The bottle was about 8 months old and I used it to top up the brakes on my tow vehicle to get home from a meeting. The boiling point was down about 40% and had discolored just from being opened. also always flush the system, don't just bleed it. Great to see Brett on the team. Cheers.
Many years ago i had trouble with losing brakes a few seconds into a run. Found that exhaust from header was heating the lines and master cylinder mounted under the car. Brake fluid was vaporizing. You see NASCAR running with red hot rotors and you wonder how the brake fluid isnt vaporizing in their calipers. Ended up switching to Castrol SRF racing brake fluid and insulating the lines in that area and problem solved. My symptom was spongy pedal requiring lots of pedal pumping to get any brakes at all. Two minutes later brakes would work fine. I dont understand how old fluid will start to show in reduced brake pressure. Seems to me that pressure is based on master cylinder piston diameter, pedal ratio, and how hard you press the pedal. If vapor is in the system, pedal gets spongy and you can feel that. Dont need a brake pressure gauge to know you have a problem at that point.
You barely touched on it but the biggest problem is that most brake fluid is "hygroscopic" and absorbs water from the air. That causes the most problems over time. Brake fluid may not boil until 400 degrees, but water boils at 212 degrees F. It does not take much of a panic stop to get the fluid over 212 degrees and then you will have air in the lines and NO Brakes. I think the degradation of chemicals is less prevalent than the absorption of water.
Yep, flush and replace on my classics every couple years, and suck out the reservoir on each of my daily drivers two times a year and replace with fresh. Second to coolant, I bet brake fluid is #1 or #2, most neglected.
Water in fluid..... fluid get hot do to "MERICA FREEDOM SEVERE BRAKING EVENT".... something about heat... moisture burning off water... pedal no same... pump and hope for best?
They are actually fine in a lot of cases (but not all). For instance our DOT 5.1 will mix fine with Dot 3 and 4. It is dependent on manufacture a lot of times. The most important is that’s silicone (Dot 5) does not mix well with no silicone fluid. Always consult the manufacturer for specific recommendations.
I'm looking forward to Brett doing many more Tech Tip Tuesdays. In every interview, he gets straight to the point, is clear in his explanation, and can draw from his incredible success as a racer. Definitely the perfect guy for the job.
Fact!
Thank you!
He's been hilarious on the Cleetus channel when driving the F150 and at the Reunion. Good on-camera personality. 👍🏼
the CAYOTEE WHISPERER
“You wear with your car”. Never thought of it that way. Love it.
Tom Bailey went off the end of the track here recently, pretty much lost his brakes going 230 and didn't have his chutes activated, he went about 400 ft into the Gravel Pit
So far that they pulled him forward, out the side onto the grass (instead of backwards back onto the track)😳
Brett's a natural on camera!
Tom Bailey 🤔
I saw that
As Brett said Brake fluid is hygroscopic. So when bleeding your brakes Always make sure you refill you system with a bottle that is brand new and unopened. Also check the seals on your master cylinder cap to stop moisture getting into the system. working on road race cars I have tested "new" brake fluid that was in a bottle from my race trailer. The bottle was about 8 months old and I used it to top up the brakes on my tow vehicle to get home from a meeting. The boiling point was down about 40% and had discolored just from being opened. also always flush the system, don't just bleed it. Great to see Brett on the team. Cheers.
Triple T is back! It's funny how little things like brake fluid can sneak past your normal maintenance items.
Good to see tech tip Tuesday back guys 👍
Like Brett said, manufacturers recommend timed base brake fluid change as normal maintenance
I like your tech Tip Tuesdays but when am I gonna see the Nova running?I don't wanna watch it crash again
The Nova is back! We will get some video of it ripping soon.
Doug.Brett is a great addiction to the motion raceworks family.
Brett's face says get me off here😂
🙃 So happy to see Tech Tip Tuesday making a return. I know that YT content has dropped off and I get it but man, I really miss all the great videos. 🥺
Great to see Brett at Motion
Good stuff. Wasn’t sure if you were still doing these. Tech Tip Tuesdays are always good.
Good stuff guys thanks 🇺🇸
Morning Brett
Always fantastic tips! Glad to hear there's more coming in the future. Keep it up y'all! Thanks for the tips!
We do enjoy it…and learn a thing or three. Then want to support your company. Nice program🙂
Many years ago i had trouble with losing brakes a few seconds into a run. Found that exhaust from header was heating the lines and master cylinder mounted under the car. Brake fluid was vaporizing. You see NASCAR running with red hot rotors and you wonder how the brake fluid isnt vaporizing in their calipers. Ended up switching to Castrol SRF racing brake fluid and insulating the lines in that area and problem solved. My symptom was spongy pedal requiring lots of pedal pumping to get any brakes at all. Two minutes later brakes would work fine. I dont understand how old fluid will start to show in reduced brake pressure. Seems to me that pressure is based on master cylinder piston diameter, pedal ratio, and how hard you press the pedal. If vapor is in the system, pedal gets spongy and you can feel that. Dont need a brake pressure gauge to know you have a problem at that point.
You barely touched on it but the biggest problem is that most brake fluid is "hygroscopic" and absorbs water from the air. That causes the most problems over time. Brake fluid may not boil until 400 degrees, but water boils at 212 degrees F. It does not take much of a panic stop to get the fluid over 212 degrees and then you will have air in the lines and NO Brakes. I think the degradation of chemicals is less prevalent than the absorption of water.
Well said.
I put my truck together with dot 4 for now, but as soon as it hits the track I'll go with TBM fluid
Wish you could do a video on how to install a brake sensor switch. Thanks for the videos!!
Yep, flush and replace on my classics every couple years, and suck out the reservoir on each of my daily drivers two times a year and replace with fresh. Second to coolant, I bet brake fluid is #1 or #2, most neglected.
I want tbms on my 15 Acura tlx, wish I could get them on there
I wanna change the fluid in my daily now..
Asking for a friend, any tech tips for coyote timing chain or crankshaft extended life?
You might be inducing heat into the hoses with old fluid.
Snot Rocket 😎👍💰
Water in fluid..... fluid get hot do to "MERICA FREEDOM SEVERE BRAKING EVENT".... something about heat... moisture burning off water... pedal no same... pump and hope for best?
Here at motion... change fluid. No pump and hope for best?... lol, not motion here...no sue
i think you all missed a very important note....dont mix different DOT types of brake fluid! they dont play well together lol
They are actually fine in a lot of cases (but not all). For instance our DOT 5.1 will mix fine with Dot 3 and 4. It is dependent on manufacture a lot of times. The most important is that’s silicone (Dot 5) does not mix well with no silicone fluid. Always consult the manufacturer for specific recommendations.
Brett looks like he has no idea what to do with his hands lol
I just want to go fast. lol
@@brett_lasalashake n bake! lol
Maybe not drive snot at 230 lol
That ain’t happening
Good job, newbie.