Looking for more heater options? Check out our last video. ruclips.net/video/TGfSs-4HcX4/видео.html Electric Blanket 12v. amzn.to/3uvxGO6 120v. amzn.to/47vwXem Battery. amzn.to/40Xo4rn Cheap Heat. www.rvcomfortsystems.com/ Oil-Filled Heater. amzn.to/3MZLcjg AC Heat Strip. amzn.to/3sJFRWy
Great video Jared. A word of caution though... MOST RV parks are not setup for RV's running huge loads for long periods of time. Look what happens in the summer when it's really hot. Everyone turns on their AC and power goes out. All the electric heat options will be worse, especially at 5000W. Works good if only a few are using it, but as more and more people get on board, pop goes the breaker. And the electricity isn't free, you are paying for it in the rate, which will likely go up over time if there is more electric demand.
Good info, Jared, I use an electric blanket that is actually under the mattress pad. My coach has an Aqua Hot for heat, so no moisture from propane or anything else so I’m very happy with it.
I installed the RVCheapHeat system back in 2018 and got to tell you it's THE best upgrade that I've done to my 2017 Grand Design Solitude 384GK (I've also got a MoreRyde 8k axels, disc breaks, sliding tray, along with several other upgrades). It cost me right at $800 total (in 2018) with the wiring, breaker box and breakers I had to get to do the installation. I've been FT for about 4 years, and winter over in IN. I've spent -17 deg days using my CheapHeat system and it kept the inside of the 5th wheel at 68-69 degrees. With that said, it keeps the RV at 72-73 easily at zero or above temps. Using my duct work for heat means I don't have any worries about my pipes freezing because my storage areas are also heated. I also have skirts for the outside which helps with the wind making it's way inside. The other advantage of the CheapHeat system is I don't have a heater, or heaters taking up floor space around the 5th wheel. It's easily paid for itself over and over again compared to using propane, and having the ability to switch back to propane heat comes in handy for those boondocking days while on the road traveling for point a to point b. I also checked the temperature of the heat coming out of the ducts and the electric heat runs about 30 degrees hotter than the propane heat. It comes on practically instantly, and turns off instantly vs the pre and post cold air flushing required of the propane heat.
The "Cheap Heat" unit is good on coaches that have a Suburban SF series furnace (not the SF-F series). On other models, this add on device can make it *very* difficult to remove the gas furnace if it needs service (which it eventually will). Buyer beware. The seller pushes them hard, and doesn't share this little tid-bit of info. 25 year Tech.
You might have just saved me for real have had two real bad winteds since I moved into a camper full time and I have had all kinds of troubles and heaters I can't afford the amount of propane it takes to keep this camper warm it's a 40 foot keystone hideout
The oil filled heater you can put a small fan blowing air thru the fins and it really seems to make it work a lot better and the actual heater is a little cooler to the touch
I’ve heard that Dyson tower fan / heaters are unbeatable for heating pretty much an entire RV… of course being like $400 they should also take care of dusting and vacuuming!🤪
Great job Jared as always, thanks for all the great information. I sent you an email earlier today about a product, Duck window kit. If you have time check it out, you can make your windows almost double pane. I work like a second window. Let me know how you like it.
When I go to full hookup spots I run an extension cord thru a slide out seal to run an oil heater plugged into the 20 amp receptacle in the pedestal. I don't trust rv wiring for continuous load. This is just supplemental to the propane furnance.
Oil filled radiators are tipsy, and quite hot to the touch when on high. We prefer the ceramic cubes with no red-hot element. They are easy to place, safe to be near/touch, have a tip switch, and some even oscillate.
I like to use 120v electric mattress pads on the RV beds. Low amp draw & seems very efficient at keeping everyone cozy when ovrnite temps dip below freeing.
One thing worth mentioning is your furnace is important to keep as your main source of heat when below freezing otherwise your pipes will freeze. Only use electric as supplemental heating. Me I have a residential Pellet stove and she keeps us toasty when we go north in -30 to -40F temps.
I have a C class with only 30 amps so I installed a 50 amp external plug to hook up to the 50 amp plug on the post. On the inside, I installed two 20 amp breakers for the 2 heaters I have. And if you must use a power strip, get one rated for 20 amps. It should help with the overheating.
But moisture in the rv is what causes mold. I’m opposite from you, I keep a dehumidifier running at all times. That way the shower dries completely and if you cook with gas appliances it creates moist conditions and foggy windows.
I have two oil-filled electric heaters in my RV - 800watt in the sleeping area and 1200 watt in the lounge/kitch - there's a 1800watt propane fire if it gets really chilly - here in UK some hookups are just 6amp at 240v so then it's either one or the other with enough to run an electric blanket
I had my furnace go out on thanksgiving and there wasn’t a tech working. I had a small electric heater in the storage where the pipes come in and two more inside. One oil filled and by the grace of God nothing has froze and the temps have been low 20s with high winds. Skirting helped a ton. But I made it. Oh, and of course an electric blanket.
One thing to mention if you are adding on the heating coil in your AC is you will probably need to buy a new control panel ( up in the AC where all your wires goes ) It will have the plug there for your coil but it is a dummy plug. Also make sure to put the jumper on the circuit board is in the same slot as your original one or you will be scratching your head wondering why nothing is working. And yes it only keeps the chill out of the air.
I've seen some testing that those electric radiators don't actually put out as much heat as a forced air space heater. The issue is that they won't run at 100% duty cycle due to the way their over temp protection and thermostat function. IIRC it was a technology connections video that showed this.
We use 2 small space heaters, and our fireplace to keep our 42 ft 5th wheel warm in below freezing temps. I keep my furnace low so it keeps the underbelly from freezing, but I try to save my propane for boondocking and just use the campground’s electric with full hookups.
My RV will have a shed attached with a wood stove on the adjacent wall heating both the underside and interior. All the wood is free since it comes off my land🤠
I don't have room to install the CheapHeat system. But I would. My thinking is I need to use the furnace at least whenever it's below freezing because space heaters don't heat downwards. At the moment I'm skirted with a space heater under there to keep the underbelly from freezing.
Have an oil-filled radiator in my passthrough with a floor fan blowing warm air through an opening into my underbelly to keep pipes from freezing. I have it on a wemo switch so I can turn it off whenever I want. Also have a lizard heat lamp tucked up in my underbelly with an Eve temperature sensor I use to regulate the temps with HomeKit automation and another wemo switch. In our cabin, I have two oil filled radiators one in bunkhouse, one in living room, and a ceramic heater in the bedroom. With the setup I don’t even need to turn on the furnace until it goes below 20°.
Love the video and the information as always. Question for you, what is the thermometer that is about the bunk room door? Thanks. Keep the great video's coming.
I looked into the CheapHeat systems before. I don't really see it being worth it on a 30 amp camper. The wattage is barely higher than a space heater and for far less cost you could buy a space heater with lots of safeties and put something in the underbelly. But the 2 bigger sizes on a 50 amp system are a lot more compelling. Especially, as you said, if someone if living in say an RV park with hook ups and want's to save their propane. Heat pumps will always beat out resistive heating by being multiple times more efficient, but for temperatures below where they can operate the system's seem like a good option. Even at parks with metered electricity, depending on electric and propane costs, it might still be cheaper in the long run. Another heating tip I picked up, an incandescent light in a simple holder is a great way to keep a passthrough warm when temperatures get really cold. I was able to keep mine above freezing down to at least -12 with a 75 watt bulb. I've also heard it works great for under a skirted RV to keep the entire underside warmer.
Jared, I know this is off topic for this video, but I just found your video titled "Surprisingly Easy Inverter With Solar. EcoFlow Delta Pro Review". That was AWESOME! Question, can you also use this to power the DC side...so AC easy peasy, DC...can it be done...i.e. use the DC power out on the EcoFlow hooked directly to your RV battery DC side and shut off the converted/charger? Thanks!
Ive slept shirtless in 38 degrees in my van with one blanket and was fine when i woke up but needed my 0 degree sleeping bag in below freezing i have a little walmart space heater ive used it a few times with my solar generator for 30 mins was more then enough for a morning warm up but i dont have any batteries that have more that a 500 watt capacity so i got no choice since i cant get amazon packages lol but i live in a no build so 🤷🏻 very imformitve video btw 🤙🏻👍🏻
The wattage the products list isn't the power draw, it's the heat energy. 1W = 3.41BTU/h . Sometimes the wattage of heat energy does get close to the actual power draw but that's only because heating coils are incredibly inefficient and nearly all electrical energy is given off as heat.
Actually in the case of a space heater the electrical draw and the heat output are the same. All of the energy gets converted to heat. There is no waste because all wasted electricity is in the form of heat already. The only energy that is not in the form of heat from a space heater is in the form of light. When light hits a surface it is converted to heat. For this reason space heaters are 100% efficient.
My RV Repair tech sees a lot of damage this time of year caused by failures in the breakers and components while using electric heaters. He strongly advised plugging heaters into a good quality power strip/surge protector. He says the circuit breaker repairs are expensive and are avoidable. This seems to go against your advice to not use a power strip. Who has the best advice here?
I would like a simple way to have the fan from my furnace run when I want it. Body heat and a small electric heater running through the ductwork would make the difference I need in our Camper.
Great video Jared, there are many options out there. I would just like to add, if using a space heater make sure that the safety tip-over shutoff is functional. Have a safe and happy holiday season. Christmas is right around the corner!! Jim
Jared, great options man but wish you had spent more time on the diesel heaters. All the electric ones are great, and as you mention, ONLY if you have power in a park. Outside of that, ALL of the electric options and even the gas options (for longer than a couple of days) are no good. Power draw is way to high on electric heaters, very comparable to AC in the summer. Diesel heaters can be retrofitted as a temporary install and can provide full RV heat at a substantially lower cost compared to propane and use way less power (they can typically run for days off a small 500W solar generator - approx 85watts) and up to 24 hours on 1 tank of diesel. They also provide dry heat, unlike propane which brings moisture. Despite the one criticism, thanks for the video and great coverage as always . Being permanently off grid (boon docking), this has been the most cost effective and power friendly option, hands down.
Yes I like the Diesel heater and covered it in this previous video. ruclips.net/video/TGfSs-4HcX4/видео.htmlsi=XA-L4WsXojIL6nD5 I agree they are great. One thing though the propane furnace doesn’t add moisture inside the RV. I touch on both those in the previous video.
Since my wife won't let me get a girlfriend to keep me warm at night I've got a couple big dogs to keep me warm at night. Take care and stay safe out there.
Never add that "Cheap Heat" electric element thing to the back of your RV furnace if it is a furnace design where the furnace has to be removed from the back for servicing is my advice. It makes the furnace very tedious (expensive) to remove/replace for service! 25 year Master RV tech here. I've encountered 2 of these devices. It cost the owners $150-200 extra for furnace repair because of the "Cheap Heat" add-on. Of course if you're capable of removing your own RV furnace when it needs service, and time/effort is not an issue, what I've said above is of little concern.
I was told by the Airstream factory service representative that the heat pump should only be used for 15-20 minutes to “take the chill out of the air.” I was also told that operating the heat pump (or AC) below 45 degrees could damage the AC unit. I don’t understand…thoughts?
Our RV AC/heat pump is not that way. We can run it for hours on end and is quite effective. It looses its effectiveness when it gets below 32°f, that’s when we switch to other heating options. Ours does have a defrost cycle which happens more often in the 30° range. Not all heat pumps are the same though. I would look up the manual for the unit.
I find your plug strip test odd. The camera shot shows 100F max. My coffee is hotter! Note also that strip is/should be UL listed, so is safety tested for 1500W. I find the 'no extension' warnings hard to swallow. (I have extensive electrical knowledge and experience.)
You should check out our fist video on it that covers great options for off grid. These are the ones I had people recommending after that video. ruclips.net/video/TGfSs-4HcX4/видео.htmlsi=eWRJG0G6r4JDLVt0
I tried the electric blanket route but todays electric blanks are not the same as the old electric blankets, in that they do not get as hot as the old ones. So I bought a electric blanket that goes on the bottom but had the opposite problem it got way to hot and was uncontrollable. I believe both were Sunbeam products. It's like our RV park has the Hot Tub set to 101 degrees as opposed to 104, so it is no longer a " Hot Tub " but now a warm tub. I was told that is to prevent law suits from the drunken campers falling down when they get out of the tub, the nanny state is becoming insufferable. On the other hand I do like LED light bulbs. So with progress I guess I have to take the good with bad.
Hello, I hope to collaborate with you. I sell RV batteries on Amazon, but I have been facing malicious attacks from competitors, which has made me feel discouraged from continuing to sell the batteries. Currently, I want to clear my inventory and can offer you a discounted price. I have a quantity of just over 100 batteries, all of which are of high quality. I look forward to your response.
“Moisture from propane “ is about the most ridiculous statement out there. Yes, if your foolish enough to use a buddy heater inside your RV, it will make much more moisture. Your RV furnace however does NOT. That would be a huge carbon monoxide risk if it worked that way. I just got done with a four day trip at 25 degree nights. Not a drop of condensation using my rv furnace and an electric fireplace heater.
You're 100% correct on RV heaters not causing condensation. It's an old myth from the old days when RV heaters had open (un-vented) burners. I disagree on the Buddy heaters though. They make a wonderful and rather safe way of heating *if* the mfr's recommendations are followed. CO is not a problem, and the Buddy has a CO sensor and auto shutdown safety built in. Yes, there will be some condensation, but if your regular forced air RV gas furnace is down for some reason, the Buddy or Big Buddy (for really large rigs) can be a great source of backup heat.
Looking for more heater options? Check out our last video. ruclips.net/video/TGfSs-4HcX4/видео.html
Electric Blanket 12v. amzn.to/3uvxGO6
120v. amzn.to/47vwXem
Battery. amzn.to/40Xo4rn
Cheap Heat. www.rvcomfortsystems.com/
Oil-Filled Heater. amzn.to/3MZLcjg
AC Heat Strip. amzn.to/3sJFRWy
I got addicted to these types of videos a while back . Have you noticed all these people seem to be great people ? Like this guy . That was great
Great video Jared. A word of caution though... MOST RV parks are not setup for RV's running huge loads for long periods of time. Look what happens in the summer when it's really hot. Everyone turns on their AC and power goes out. All the electric heat options will be worse, especially at 5000W. Works good if only a few are using it, but as more and more people get on board, pop goes the breaker. And the electricity isn't free, you are paying for it in the rate, which will likely go up over time if there is more electric demand.
Good info, Jared, I use an electric blanket that is actually under the mattress pad. My coach has an Aqua Hot for heat, so no moisture from propane or anything else so I’m very happy with it.
I installed the RVCheapHeat system back in 2018 and got to tell you it's THE best upgrade that I've done to my 2017 Grand Design Solitude 384GK (I've also got a MoreRyde 8k axels, disc breaks, sliding tray, along with several other upgrades). It cost me right at $800 total (in 2018) with the wiring, breaker box and breakers I had to get to do the installation. I've been FT for about 4 years, and winter over in IN. I've spent -17 deg days using my CheapHeat system and it kept the inside of the 5th wheel at 68-69 degrees. With that said, it keeps the RV at 72-73 easily at zero or above temps. Using my duct work for heat means I don't have any worries about my pipes freezing because my storage areas are also heated. I also have skirts for the outside which helps with the wind making it's way inside. The other advantage of the CheapHeat system is I don't have a heater, or heaters taking up floor space around the 5th wheel. It's easily paid for itself over and over again compared to using propane, and having the ability to switch back to propane heat comes in handy for those boondocking days while on the road traveling for point a to point b. I also checked the temperature of the heat coming out of the ducts and the electric heat runs about 30 degrees hotter than the propane heat. It comes on practically instantly, and turns off instantly vs the pre and post cold air flushing required of the propane heat.
Good to hear!
How much did it add to the depth of your furnace?
@@chachi5975 About 6 inches. You have to have enough space where the ducts connect to add the coil and then reconnect the ducts.
The "Cheap Heat" unit is good on coaches that have a Suburban SF series furnace (not the SF-F series). On other models, this add on device can make it *very* difficult to remove the gas furnace if it needs service (which it eventually will). Buyer beware. The seller pushes them hard, and doesn't share this little tid-bit of info. 25 year Tech.
You might have just saved me for real have had two real bad winteds since I moved into a camper full time and I have had all kinds of troubles and heaters I can't afford the amount of propane it takes to keep this camper warm it's a 40 foot keystone hideout
The oil filled heater you can put a small fan blowing air thru the fins and it really seems to make it work a lot better and the actual heater is a little cooler to the touch
I’ve heard that Dyson tower fan / heaters are unbeatable for heating pretty much an entire RV… of course being like $400 they should also take care of dusting and vacuuming!🤪
Great job Jared as always, thanks for all the great information. I sent you an email earlier today about a product, Duck window kit. If you have time check it out, you can make your windows almost double pane. I work like a second window. Let me know how you like it.
When I go to full hookup spots I run an extension cord thru a slide out seal to run an oil heater plugged into the 20 amp receptacle in the pedestal. I don't trust rv wiring for continuous load. This is just supplemental to the propane furnance.
Oil filled radiators are tipsy, and quite hot to the touch when on high. We prefer the ceramic cubes with no red-hot element. They are easy to place, safe to be near/touch, have a tip switch, and some even oscillate.
I like to use 120v electric mattress pads on the RV beds. Low amp draw & seems very efficient at keeping everyone cozy when ovrnite temps dip below freeing.
Enter than sliced bread…lol
One thing worth mentioning is your furnace is important to keep as your main source of heat when below freezing otherwise your pipes will freeze. Only use electric as supplemental heating. Me I have a residential Pellet stove and she keeps us toasty when we go north in -30 to -40F temps.
Can you mention what model stove you have?
@@MrEroshan absolutely. It’s the “Castle 12327”
We often use a small oil-filled electric heater in my Lance 850 TruckCamper. Works great to keep us warm and happy.
I have a C class with only 30 amps so I installed a 50 amp external plug to hook up to the 50 amp plug on the post. On the inside, I installed two 20 amp breakers for the 2 heaters I have.
And if you must use a power strip, get one rated for 20 amps. It should help with the overheating.
The main reason we use the oil filled heater is it doesn't dry the air like the others! When you wake up your nose still works! lol
But moisture in the rv is what causes mold. I’m opposite from you, I keep a dehumidifier running at all times. That way the shower dries completely and if you cook with gas appliances it creates moist conditions and foggy windows.
They also don't blow around dust and allergens in your rv.
I installed a Dickinson marine heater in our cargo trailer conversion and our Scout truck camper came with one. Good little heat source.
I have two oil-filled electric heaters in my RV - 800watt in the sleeping area and 1200 watt in the lounge/kitch - there's a 1800watt propane fire if it gets really chilly - here in UK some hookups are just 6amp at 240v so then it's either one or the other with enough to run an electric blanket
I had my furnace go out on thanksgiving and there wasn’t a tech working. I had a small electric heater in the storage where the pipes come in and two more inside. One oil filled and by the grace of God nothing has froze and the temps have been low 20s with high winds. Skirting helped a ton. But I made it. Oh, and of course an electric blanket.
One thing to mention if you are adding on the heating coil in your AC is you will probably need to buy a new control panel ( up in the AC where all your wires goes )
It will have the plug there for your coil but it is a dummy plug.
Also make sure to put the jumper on the circuit board is in the same slot as your original one or you will be scratching your head wondering why nothing is working.
And yes it only keeps the chill out of the air.
We use mostly our rooftop AC heat pump. It uses one fourth the electricity than an equal BTU heater. For local heat we love our Olympus Wave 6.
I've seen some testing that those electric radiators don't actually put out as much heat as a forced air space heater. The issue is that they won't run at 100% duty cycle due to the way their over temp protection and thermostat function. IIRC it was a technology connections video that showed this.
Great video Jared, as always! Love your channel, always safety first.
We use 2 small space heaters, and our fireplace to keep our 42 ft 5th wheel warm in below freezing temps. I keep my furnace low so it keeps the underbelly from freezing, but I try to save my propane for boondocking and just use the campground’s electric with full hookups.
My RV will have a shed attached with a wood stove on the adjacent wall heating both the underside and interior. All the wood is free since it comes off my land🤠
I really warmed up to the video...
😁
Haha, love it.
I don't have room to install the CheapHeat system. But I would. My thinking is I need to use the furnace at least whenever it's below freezing because space heaters don't heat downwards.
At the moment I'm skirted with a space heater under there to keep the underbelly from freezing.
Have an oil-filled radiator in my passthrough with a floor fan blowing warm air through an opening into my underbelly to keep pipes from freezing. I have it on a wemo switch so I can turn it off whenever I want. Also have a lizard heat lamp tucked up in my underbelly with an Eve temperature sensor I use to regulate the temps with HomeKit automation and another wemo switch.
In our cabin, I have two oil filled radiators one in bunkhouse, one in living room, and a ceramic heater in the bedroom.
With the setup I don’t even need to turn on the furnace until it goes below 20°.
Love the video and the information as always. Question for you, what is the thermometer that is about the bunk room door? Thanks. Keep the great video's coming.
Thanks Jared - As usual, many helpful hints. - Cheers!
I’m in SoCal, and I’m good with just my fireplace, and electric heat pump 🤙🏼
I looked into the CheapHeat systems before. I don't really see it being worth it on a 30 amp camper. The wattage is barely higher than a space heater and for far less cost you could buy a space heater with lots of safeties and put something in the underbelly. But the 2 bigger sizes on a 50 amp system are a lot more compelling. Especially, as you said, if someone if living in say an RV park with hook ups and want's to save their propane. Heat pumps will always beat out resistive heating by being multiple times more efficient, but for temperatures below where they can operate the system's seem like a good option. Even at parks with metered electricity, depending on electric and propane costs, it might still be cheaper in the long run.
Another heating tip I picked up, an incandescent light in a simple holder is a great way to keep a passthrough warm when temperatures get really cold. I was able to keep mine above freezing down to at least -12 with a 75 watt bulb. I've also heard it works great for under a skirted RV to keep the entire underside warmer.
Jared, I know this is off topic for this video, but I just found your video titled "Surprisingly Easy Inverter With Solar. EcoFlow Delta Pro Review". That was AWESOME! Question, can you also use this to power the DC side...so AC easy peasy, DC...can it be done...i.e. use the DC power out on the EcoFlow hooked directly to your RV battery DC side and shut off the converted/charger? Thanks!
Ive slept shirtless in 38 degrees in my van with one blanket and was fine when i woke up but needed my 0 degree sleeping bag in below freezing i have a little walmart space heater ive used it a few times with my solar generator for 30 mins was more then enough for a morning warm up but i dont have any batteries that have more that a 500 watt capacity so i got no choice since i cant get amazon packages lol but i live in a no build so 🤷🏻 very imformitve video btw 🤙🏻👍🏻
Got the propane, heat pump and space heaters. Cubic Mini Wood Stove is our favorite. Compressed fire logs work the best 🪵👍🏻
Jaded have you ever look into the rv comfort system electric add-on to the propane furnace?
The wattage the products list isn't the power draw, it's the heat energy. 1W = 3.41BTU/h . Sometimes the wattage of heat energy does get close to the actual power draw but that's only because heating coils are incredibly inefficient and nearly all electrical energy is given off as heat.
Actually in the case of a space heater the electrical draw and the heat output are the same. All of the energy gets converted to heat. There is no waste because all wasted electricity is in the form of heat already. The only energy that is not in the form of heat from a space heater is in the form of light. When light hits a surface it is converted to heat. For this reason space heaters are 100% efficient.
My RV Repair tech sees a lot of damage this time of year caused by failures in the breakers and components while using electric heaters. He strongly advised plugging heaters into a good quality power strip/surge protector. He says the circuit breaker repairs are expensive and are avoidable. This seems to go against your advice to not use a power strip. Who has the best advice here?
I would like a simple way to have the fan from my furnace run when I want it. Body heat and a small electric heater running through the ductwork would make the difference I need in our Camper.
That is a compelling thought and probably doable. I’ll give it some thought.
That is much appreciated.@@AllAboutRVs
Great video Jared, there are many options out there. I would just like to add, if using a space heater make sure that the safety tip-over shutoff is functional. Have a safe and happy holiday season. Christmas is right around the corner!! Jim
Are you going to be at the 2024 Tampa RV show by chance?
Great video.
Question…
What is the coldest nighttime temp you have been in with your RV?
3°f
Stay warm my friend
Jared, great options man but wish you had spent more time on the diesel heaters. All the electric ones are great, and as you mention, ONLY if you have power in a park. Outside of that, ALL of the electric options and even the gas options (for longer than a couple of days) are no good. Power draw is way to high on electric heaters, very comparable to AC in the summer. Diesel heaters can be retrofitted as a temporary install and can provide full RV heat at a substantially lower cost compared to propane and use way less power (they can typically run for days off a small 500W solar generator - approx 85watts) and up to 24 hours on 1 tank of diesel. They also provide dry heat, unlike propane which brings moisture. Despite the one criticism, thanks for the video and great coverage as always . Being permanently off grid (boon docking), this has been the most cost effective and power friendly option, hands down.
Yes I like the Diesel heater and covered it in this previous video. ruclips.net/video/TGfSs-4HcX4/видео.htmlsi=XA-L4WsXojIL6nD5
I agree they are great. One thing though the propane furnace doesn’t add moisture inside the RV. I touch on both those in the previous video.
We had our main heater fail. So I took it out and installed a Chinese diesel heater, and I would never go back.
Since my wife won't let me get a girlfriend to keep me warm at night I've got a couple big dogs to keep me warm at night.
Take care and stay safe out there.
Is it safe to use a oil-filled heater that clo se to a cabinet? I've seen instructions that say they must be 3 feet away...tyA
The noise of the heatpump drives me nuts vs propane. Cheapheat looks interesting
Ya each one can be different. Our heat pump is quieter than our furnace.
Never add that "Cheap Heat" electric element thing to the back of your RV furnace if it is a furnace design where the furnace has to be removed from the back for servicing is my advice. It makes the furnace very tedious (expensive) to remove/replace for service! 25 year Master RV tech here.
I've encountered 2 of these devices. It cost the owners $150-200 extra for furnace repair because of the "Cheap Heat" add-on. Of course if you're capable of removing your own RV furnace when it needs service, and time/effort is not an issue, what I've said above is of little concern.
I was told by the Airstream factory service representative that the heat pump should only be used for 15-20 minutes to “take the chill out of the air.” I was also told that operating the heat pump (or AC) below 45 degrees could damage the AC unit. I don’t understand…thoughts?
Our RV AC/heat pump is not that way. We can run it for hours on end and is quite effective. It looses its effectiveness when it gets below 32°f, that’s when we switch to other heating options. Ours does have a defrost cycle which happens more often in the 30° range. Not all heat pumps are the same though. I would look up the manual for the unit.
I find your plug strip test odd. The camera shot shows 100F max. My coffee is hotter!
Note also that strip is/should be UL listed, so is safety tested for 1500W. I find the 'no extension' warnings hard to swallow. (I have extensive electrical knowledge and experience.)
And boondocking heat?
We NEVER use campgrounds, so anything requiring electricity is out.
You should check out our fist video on it that covers great options for off grid. These are the ones I had people recommending after that video. ruclips.net/video/TGfSs-4HcX4/видео.htmlsi=eWRJG0G6r4JDLVt0
I tried the electric blanket route but todays electric blanks are not the same as the old electric blankets, in that they do not get as hot as the old ones. So I bought a electric blanket that goes on the bottom but had the opposite problem it got way to hot and was uncontrollable. I believe both were Sunbeam products.
It's like our RV park has the Hot Tub set to 101 degrees as opposed to 104, so it is no longer a " Hot Tub " but now a warm tub. I was told that is to prevent law suits from the drunken campers falling down when they get out of the tub, the nanny state is becoming insufferable. On the other hand I do like LED light bulbs. So with progress I guess I have to take the good with bad.
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Cool! I mean that’s hot! I mean fire…
Thanks, I mean 🔥
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Cold? How cold? 40? 20? 0? -20
Rving to dubai barsha south a la lanarafat's camped Lanarafat's pa mejia's house
“Moisture from propane “ is about the most ridiculous statement out there. Yes, if your foolish enough to use a buddy heater inside your RV, it will make much more moisture. Your RV furnace however does NOT. That would be a huge carbon monoxide risk if it worked that way.
I just got done with a four day trip at 25 degree nights. Not a drop of condensation using my rv furnace and an electric fireplace heater.
You're 100% correct on RV heaters not causing condensation. It's an old myth from the old days when RV heaters had open (un-vented) burners. I disagree on the Buddy heaters though. They make a wonderful and rather safe way of heating *if* the mfr's recommendations are followed. CO is not a problem, and the Buddy has a CO sensor and auto shutdown safety built in. Yes, there will be some condensation, but if your regular forced air RV gas furnace is down for some reason, the Buddy or Big Buddy (for really large rigs) can be a great source of backup heat.